PPG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE ETHER FOR REDUCING

WHITE STAIN TRANSFER IN ANTIPERSPIRANT

AND DEODORANT (AP/DEO) FORMULATIONS
Authors: Erica Navarro, Luciana Ferra, Luciene Bastos, Joseph Zellia

As the global market for antiperspirant and deodorant products (AP/DEO) is growing, the consumer
requirements are increasing. An effective AP/DEO should not only safely and effectively reduce odor, but
it must also show excellent sensorial properties and reduce white stains and marks on both clothes and
skin. Understanding the interplay between the polymer and surfactants is important since the polymer
may affect the rheology and performance of personal care cleansing formulations.

MILD NATURALLY-DERIVED HUMECTANT TABLE 2: Antiperspirant Roll-on Emulsion with PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether vs.
Alkoxylated methyl glycosides, such as PPG-20 methyl glucose ether (Glucam™ P-20 Humectant), a solvent PPG-15 Stearyl Ether
offering good fragrance fixation properties as well as interesting sensorial benefits such as reduction in tackiness, INCI NAME / TRADE NAME % wt % wt FUNCTION
provide excellent performances in AP/DEO formulations containing antiperspirant agents (e.g., aluminum A. 1. Water 57.70 57.70 Diluent
chlorohydrate and aluminum zirconium chlorohydrate derivatives) by reducing white residue left on skin and 2. Disodium EDTA 0.05 0.05 Chelating Agent
subsequently transferred onto textile substrates. B. 3. Steareth-2 3.00 3.00 Emulsifier
4. Steareth-21 0,75 0,75 Emulsifier
PPG-20 Methyl glucose Ether (Glucam™ P-20 METHYL GLUCOSIDE BASIC CHEMISTRY 5. PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether / Glucam™ P-20 Humectant 7.00 - Humectant
Humectant) is a corn-based methyl glucoside derivative 6. PPG-15 Stearyl Ether - 7.00 Emollient
that delivers moisture to the skin without leaving a H–C = O
7. Ceteareth-20 1.00 1.00 Emulsifier
tacky residue. H–C–OH
8. Phenoxyethanol and Methylparaben and Ethylparaben and 0.50 0.50 Preservative
HO–C–H Propylparaben and Butylparaben
Key features and benefits H–C–OH C. 9. Aluminum Chlorohydrate (50%) 30,00 30,00 Antiperspirant Active
• Derived from natural sources H–C–OH

• Humectancy H2C–OH Visual evaluations were performed to compare white stain residues imparted by the two different formulations.
• Stability enhancement
• Reduction of antiperspirant white stain transfer marks Procedure for the evaluation of white stains on skin and on fabric:
• Good spreading and sensory profile • Weigh 0.10 g of AP/DEO using an analytical balance
• Mildness • Clean volar forearms with alcohol (70%)
• Fragrance fixation • Apply 0.10 g of the formula onto volar forearm, inside a circle (d=51 mm)
• Spread 10 times around the circle
• Hold until the product dries
• Put a piece of cotton fabric onto the circle
EVALUATION OF PPG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE ETHER FOR REDUCING WHITE
• Place a 200 gram weight on cotton fabric and rub it onto the piece of fabric in one direction 10 times
STAINS ON SKIN FROM AN ANHYDROUS AP/DEO FORMULATION
• Pick-off the piece of fabric and take a picture of the forearm and cotton fabric
The impact of the addition of PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether in an anhydrous cream containing 20% of
Aluminum-Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrex Glycine Complex is shown below. FIGURE 2: Impact of PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether vs. PPG-15 Stearyl Ether in an Antiperspirant
Roll-on Emulsion Formulation on Appearance of White Stains on Skin and Fabric
TABLE 1: Anhydrous AP/DEO Example Formulation With and Without PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether

INCI NAME / TRADE NAME % wt % wt FUNCTION

A. 1. Cyclomethicone 51,40 54,40 Emollient
2. Cyclomethicone and Dimethicone Crosspolymer 5,00 5,00 Emollient
B. 3. PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether / Glucam™ P-20 Humectant 3,00 - Emollient
4. BHT 0,10 0,10 Antioxidant
5. Diisostearyl Fumarate / Schercemol™ DISF Ester 5,00 5,00 Emollient PPG-20 Methyl PPG-15 Stearyl PPG-20 Methyl PPG-15 Stearyl
6. Isostearyl Hydroxystearate / Schercemol™ SHS Ester 7,00 7,00 Emollient Glucose Ether Ether Glucose Ether Ether
C. 7. Silica Dimethyl Silylate 3,50 3,50 Thickener
8. Tapioca Starch 5,00 5,00 Filler The pictures of the fabrics have been converted to binary images in order to calculate the amount of stain on
D. 9. Aluminum-Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrex Glycine Complex 20,00 20,00 Antiperspirant Active fabric. All pictures from the fabrics were taken at the same place, from the same distance.

Procedure for evaluation of the white stain residues on skin: Procedure for evaluation of the white stain residues on fabric:
• Apply on the volar forearm 0.10 g of the formulation inside a circle (d=51 mm) • Crop from the picture a 6 cm x 6 cm section for analysis.
• Spread 25 times around the circle • Adjust brightness/ contrast level on the picture to highlight the residue on the cloth.
• Hold 2 minutes • Convert the images to 8 bit images, and then to a binary images.
• Photograph the forearm • Evaluate the circular area to determine the number of black pixels versus the number of white pixels (the black
now represents the white stains on the cloth in the original pictures). The residue fraction is calculated from
FIGURE 1: Results of the Evaluations in Anhydrous AP/DEO Formulations the total image area.
• Calculate and compare the residues.
PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether demonstrates
superior performances, reducing white FIGURE 3: Binary Images of the Residue
marks left on the skin from this anhydrous Area on Cotton Fabric Show the Residue Area
antiperspirant formulation. Fraction Imparted by the Antiperspirant Formulated
with PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether (left) to be
Less than the One Formulated with PPG-15 Stearyl
Ether (right)
PPG-20 Methyl PPG-15 Stearyl
Glucose Ether Ether
With PPG-20 Methyl Without PPG-20 Methyl
Glucose Ether Glucose Ether
FIGURE 4: Comparison of Residue Area Faction Measured on Cotton Fabric by 3 Different Volunteers
The formulation containing PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether also shows enhanced stability compared to the one
without this humectant. The formulation without PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether showed oil separation after 2 14 As shown in Figure 4, for all
Residue area fraction

PPG-20 Methyl
weeks at room temperature while the formulation with this humectant remained. 12 Glucose Ether
3 volunteers, the formulation
10
8 containing PPG-20 Methyl Glucose
EVALUATION OF PPG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE ETHER FOR REDUCING 6 Ether showed a better result than
PPG-15
TRANSFER OF WHITE STAINS FROM AN AP/DEO EMULSION FORMULATION 4 Stearyl Ether with PPG-15 Stearyl Ether.
2
TO A TEXTILE SUBSTRATE 0
Volunteer 1 Volunteer 2 Volunteer 3
Propoxylated ethers, such as PPG-15 Stearyl Ether, are traditionally used in antiperspirant and deodorant
(AP/DEO) applications to reduce tackiness, improve skin feel, and prevent the recrystallisation of salts. The
impact of the addition of PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether or PPG-15 Stearyl Ether in an emulsion containing 15% of Alkoxylated methyl ether glycosides such as PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether can be formulated into antiperspirant
Aluminum Chlorohydrate is shown below. and deodorant compositions to mitigate white stain transfer onto skin and textile substrates while providing
some humectancy and a good sensory profile.

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