Travel | nagaland
I came to know a lot about themselves at the well. The whole
prepared in their style. The Nagas
are very fond of chillies and so
am I. They gave me the world fa-
mous Raja Mircha! It was a great
delight taking lunch there. As I
ate, I found out the reason why
these people have such good
skin. They generally have boiled
food or food and curries with very
less oil. Spices are a big no-no for
them. The restaurant owner was
present there at that time. I que-
ried him to find out more about
their food habits. He shared with
me that meat could be beef,
pork and also chicken. They also
take mithun, dogs, cats, fish, spi-
ders and crabs sometimes. I also
had a chance to eat a piece of
dog meat. The preparation was
really good. Later I learnt that
dog meat is hot and so it is taken
during winters to get rid of cold.
“The skin and intestines are
eaten and the skin is spared only
if it is needed for making a shield,”
he added. Sometimes the meat
is smoke dried and preserved for
a long time.
Rice beer is the main drink.
“Generally of three kinds, Zutho,
Ruhi and Dzutse, they can be tak-
en at any time,” saying so, he of-
fered me some Ruhi. I took a glass
of it and found it good.
64 April 08
soul.
the state from him. He said that
the Angamis celebrate Sekrenyi
Angami in the month of February
every year and I was very lucky
to be there at that time. The next
day was 25th and Sekrenyi nor-
mally falls on that day of the An-
gami month of Kezei. This ten-day
festival is also called Phousanyi
by the Angamis.
He guided the driver and
me so that I can witness the fest,
which follows a circle of ritual
and ceremony, the first of which
is Kezie. Let me take some space
and time to share this story.
A few drops of rice water is
taken from the top of a jug called
‘Zumho’ and sprinkled on some
leaves and placed at the three
main posts of the house by the
lady of the household. The first
day begins with both young and
old going to the village well to
bathe. At night, two young men
go to the well to clean it. Some
of the village youth guard the
well at night to ensure that af-
ter cleaning is over, no one is al-
lowed to fetch water. The women
especially are not allowed to
touch the well water.
Early next morning, all the
young men of the village wash
process is carried out in a ritualistic
manner. The young men don two
new shawls (the white MhoushÜ
and the black Lohe) and sprinkle
water on their chest, knees and
on the right arm. This ceremony is
called the Dzüseva, which means
‘touching the sleeping water’.
This assures them that the purified
water has washed all sins and
misfortunes away. On their return
from the well, a cock is sacrificed
by throttling it with bare hands. It
is taken as a good omen when
the right leg falls over the left leg
as the cock falls.
Starting from the fourth day
of the festival, a three-day ses-
sion of singing and feasting be-
gins. The Thekra Hie is the best
part of the festival where the
young people of the village sit to-
gether and sing traditional songs
throughout the day. On the sev-
enth day the young men go for
hunting. Until the close of the fes-
tival no one goes to the fields and
all fieldwork ceases during this
season of feasting and singing.
The young unmarried girls with
closely shaven heads sit down
with the bronzed youths and sing
tunes of bygone ages, recreating
a past that touches every human
Music, which has a wide
range of variety, is an essential
part of any festival here. They may
worship a tradition, praise an act
of bravery heroism, or might even
relate to a love story. A common
musical instrument used by this
tribe is the Petu, which the An-
gamis and the Chakhesangs are
extremely fond of. Another string
instrument that I noticed them
playing on, is called the Theku,
besides the wind instrument,
flute.
My visit to this hill-state would
have been incomplete if I had
not been to Japfu Peak, which
stands at 3084 metres above sea
level. The sunrise from this peak
is an experience to remember
throughout life. Though the best
season for climbing it is from No-
vember to December, I, in the
month of February did not miss
out on that too.
You know what…in the Japfu
range is found the tallest Rho-
dodendron tree, which has fea-
tured in the Guinness Book of
World Records. The tallest tree
is 109 feet high and the girth at
the base measures more than 11
feet. I thought that it was indeed
an experience of a lifetime after
a five-hour long trek through the
steep inclines to have a view of it
in full bloom.
All these days, I had an inner
sorrow to have missed the famous
Hornbill festival, which is held ev-
ery December. But, after having
witnessing this peak and the Rho-
dodendron, I was satisfied to the
core. I thought within my heart of
heart, “may be I can come back
to this place next December, ex-
clusively for the Hornbill festival.”
Just a day was left in hand.
I had to go to the marketplace
and buy little tokens for all at
home and friends. I asked the
driver to be there at the hotel
next morning. Soon after break-
fast, I asked him to take me to
an emporium. As I entered one,
I was thoroughly confused. What
nagaland | Travel
should I buy, I thought. All the lent specimens of the Naga’s skill
items displayed were one better in woodwork. Finally I decided
than the other, wooden figures of to buy a few Naga shawls and
mithun head, hornbill, human fig- some of these figures for my peo-
ure, elephant, tiger, etc. The man ple back home.
there explained to me that these The small little town of Ko-
have their usual symbolic mean- hima, situated at an altitude of
ing. 1444 metres above sea level en-
The mithun represents wealth, chants all its travelers with its flaw-
the hornbill valour, human figure less atmosphere of rich tradition
symbolizing success in headhunt- imbibed in the hearts of its dwell-
ing, while elephant and tiger de- ers. Your experience here would
notes physical prowess. be altogether different. So why
Further, there were log-drums waste time? Come and explore
or xylophones, which are ardu- this unexplored and modest
ously hollowed out of the trunk place, which adds to the beauty
of a big tree. These are excel- of ever-attractive northeast!
FACTFILE
State capital: Kohima
Best Time to visit: September to April
Temperature: Summer: Maximum: 31°C; Minimum: 16°C
Winter: Maximum: 24°C; Minimum: 4°C
Average Rainfall: 2000 mm to 2500 mm
How to reach there?
By Air: The state has its airport in Dimapur, which is regularly serviced by
major airlines. The city is linked to the major Indian cities like Guwahati and
Kolkata by air.
By Road: A good road network covers the state. The state capital Kohima
is linked to Shillong and Guwahati, which are important cities in northeast-
ern India. Other cities of Nagaland are linked to Kohima by road.
By Rail: The major railhead in the state is Dimapur, which is linked to
Guwahati.
Clothing Required:
Summer: Cotton
Winter: Heavy Woollens.
April 08 65