Risk Anti Reflexivity and Ethical Neutra

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Agric Hum Values (2012) 29:287–301

DOI 10.1007/s10460-011-9337-7

Risk, anti-reflexivity, and ethical neutralization in industrial


food processing
Diana Stuart • Michelle R. Worosz

Accepted: 2 September 2011 / Published online: 11 September 2011


 Springer Science+Business Media B.V. 2011

Abstract While innovations have fostered the mass Keywords Food processing  Food safety  Reflexive
production of food at low costs, there are externalities or modernization  Anti-reflexivity  Techniques of
side effects associated with high-volume food processing. neutralization
We focus on foodborne illness linked to two commodities:
ground beef and bagged salad greens. In our analysis, we Abbreviations
draw from the concepts of risk, reflexive modernization, FSIS Food Safety and Inspection Service
and techniques of ethical neutralization. For each com- FSMA Food Safety Modernization Act
modity, we find that systems organized for industrial goals HACCP Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Points
overlook how production models foster cross-contamina- LGMA California Leafy Greens Marketing Agreement
tion and widespread outbreaks. Responses to outbreaks USDA United States Department of Agriculture
tend to rely on technological fixes, which do not constitute
the reflexive change needed to holistically and effectively
address foodborne illness in the long term. We contend that Introduction
powerful anti-reflexivity movements resist calls for reform
and successfully maintain industrial goals and organiza- New evidence continues to highlight the negative impacts
tion. Actions that thwart changes in agrifood systems to of industrial food production in the United States (US) and
better protect consumers are unethical, yet they continue to worldwide. While the agrifood literature is replete with
be successful. We argue that specific techniques of ethical critiques of industrialized agriculture, fewer studies have
neutralization play an important part in their success. addressed industrialization in food processing. Food pro-
Research on anti-reflexivity and techniques of neutraliza- cessing has undergone extensive industrial changes
tion will serve to further expose the ethical issues associ- including mechanization, allowing for the rapid production
ated with the industrial agrifood system and foster new of mass quantities of standardized products with limited
guiding principles and organizational designs for food human labor. As seen in agriculture, capital costs have
production. replaced costs in labor resulting in larger and more ‘‘effi-
cient’’ high-volume production systems. While those that
promote these changes emphasize unprecedented levels of
low cost food, there are many hidden costs. Borrowing
from economics, these ‘‘externalities’’ of industrialized
D. Stuart (&) food processing include negative impacts to human health
Kellogg Biological Station and Department of Sociology,
Michigan State University, 3700 East Gull Lake Drive, and wellbeing (e.g., Nyachuba 2010), worker safety (e.g.,
Hickory Corners, MI 49060, USA Culp et al. 2008), rural communities and livelihoods (e.g.,
e-mail: dstuart@msu.edu Ollinger et al. 2005), and the environment (e.g., Tusseau-
Vuillemin 2001).
M. R. Worosz
Department of Agricultural Economics and Rural Sociology, As evidence continues to reveal the impacts of industrial-
Auburn University, 306A Comer Hall, Auburn, AL 36849, USA ized food processing, issues with large-scale production,

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288 D. Stuart, M. R. Worosz

profit-orientation, and technological optimism have become obligation to protect consumers and therefore its lack of
apparent. We closely examine how food processing systems (and resistance to) reflexivity constitutes an ethical viola-
based on these industrial tenets are linked to widespread tion. We suggest that this violation remains unaddressed
outbreaks of foodborne illness. We will illustrate how due to specific techniques of neutralization (Sykes and
powerful forces and ideologies continue to support these Matza 1957) that diffuse responsibility and prioritize
systems, despite a growing awareness of associated harm. industrial goals over consumer protection.
As illustrated by recent, high profile outbreaks linked to
products such as meat, eggs, peanut butter, cookie dough,
and salads, foodborne illness has become a prominent Risk, reflexivity, and techniques of neutralization
externality associated with industrial food processing. These
outbreaks impact large numbers of consumers across vast Beck’s theory of the risk society posits that we can no
geographic areas. Food safety issues have become more longer escape the consequences of modernization (Beck
apparent to US consumers, resulting in pressure to pass new 1992). Much of his work is applicable to examining
food safety laws (Worosz 2009). However, responses to industrial food systems. Beck (1992) illustrates the side
outbreaks have avoided significant deviation from the effects linked to modernization and how the externalities
dominant principles and organizational strategies of indus- of industrialization resurface, through a ‘‘boomerang
trial food production and have largely relied upon the effect,’’ to impact society. He uses industrial accidents and
adoption of new technological fixes. nuclear technology to illustrate the risks associated with
While a number of scholars have investigated food modernization. In his examples, society is the perpetrator
safety, we take this research further by: (1) specifically but also the victim. Beck links these events to capitalist
illustrating how strategic industrial designs result in production, which is prioritized while turning a blind eye
widespread outbreaks, (2) demonstrating how powerful to side effects: ‘‘in the effort to increase productivity, the
actors resist production changes that would better address associated risks have always been and still are being
outbreaks, and (3) exploring specific techniques industrial neglected’’ (Beck 1992, p. 60). Within food systems,
actors use to maintain current production systems. While industrial changes to maximize profits have also led to
some scholars have convincingly argued that current negative side effects, such as the emergence of bovine
efforts to address food safety will remain inadequate spongiform encephalopathy (BSE) in Europe starting in
(Juska et al. 2003; Dunn 2007), we will examine the the 1980s.
specific organizational flaws that render current approa- Beck argues that in a risk society the side effects of
ches ineffective. Other work has critiqued responses to modernization are no longer invisible, resulting in
outbreaks and food safety governance (Konefal et al. increasing public awareness of risk and the rise of
2005; Worosz et al. 2008a; DeLind and Howard 2008; ‘‘reflexive modernization’’ (Beck 1992; Beck et al. 1994,
Tanaka 2008); however, we will explore how powerful 2003). Reflexive modernization suggests that society is not
actors resist efforts to better address food safety and will only increasingly aware of risks, but is reshaping systems
apply new concepts to help explain their continued suc- to address these risks (Beck 1992; Beck et al. 2003).
cess. While a growing number of US consumers identify Reflexivity means abandoning old tools and methods, and
processing plants as a major source of food safety prob- fostering a ‘‘meta-change’’ in both societal perspectives
lems (Roseman et al. 2005), processing designs remain and social institutions (Beck et al. 2003). This involves
largely unchanged. In this paper, we explore how indus- changes in priorities, working towards new solutions, and
trial actors continue to impede efforts to address food- adapting systems as new conditions emerge. Truly reflex-
borne illness. ive change involves a holistic reevaluation of systems and a
Several theoretical concepts guide our analysis. Drawing willingness to make substantial changes in industrial
from Beck’s (1992) work on risk society and reflexive organization. While some consumers have raised concerns
modernization, we examine the causes and responses about outbreaks, we will illustrate that food processors
associated with outbreaks linked to ground beef and bag- have not responded to outbreaks in ways that constitute
ged salads. This analysis reveals that although the ‘‘side reflexive change. This lack of reflexivity may be attributed
effects’’ (Beck 1992) of industrial food manufacturing have to anti-reflexivity movements.
become increasingly visible, very little has been done to Anti-reflexivity movements have emerged in opposition
alter these systems in ways that would constitute reflexive to social movements working to address the increasing
change. Instead, industrial players have been very suc- risks of modernization. McCright and Dunlap (2010)
cessful at hindering calls for reform through powerful describe anti-reflexivity movements that have evolved in
‘‘anti-reflexivity’’ movements (McCright and Dunlap response to rising concerns about climate change. These
2010). We argue that the food industry has a social counter-movements continue to protect and prioritize

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Risk, anti-reflexivity, and ethical neutralization in industrial food processing 289

industrial capitalism while refuting climate science and raw ingredients or downstream suppliers for outbreaks,
challenging progressive efforts to address risks. McCright overlooking their role in the supply chain.
and Dunlap (2010, p. 126) call for scholars of reflexive Denial of the victim has also been a technique of neu-
modernization to devote more attention towards anti- tralization used by industrial food companies. Food com-
reflexivity movements ‘‘as such forces continue to shape panies have frequently blamed individual consumers
the overall direction of our social, political and economic afflicted with illness for poor food handling practices, such
order.’’ We contend that significant reforms to better pro- as not thoroughly washing or cooking products (Nestle
tect consumers from foodborne illness remain hindered by 2003; Jacob and Powell 2009; Moss 2009a). Although
powerful anti-reflexivity movements. there have been a few notable exceptions (Moss 2009b),
In this paper, we explore how the anti-reflexivity companies have tended to deny the existence of a true
movements that continue to thwart fundamental changes in victim, suggesting that inflicted individuals have acted in
food processing utilize techniques of ethical neutralization ways that have brought harm upon themselves. While
(Sykes and Matza 1957). Responses that lack reflexivity lawsuits may, to some extent, serve to expose this neu-
and resist efforts to better protect consumers represent an tralization technique in the food industry (e.g., the work of
ethical violation. The modern food industry is driven by Marler Clark), denial of the victim continues to represent a
capitalist logic, as clearly seen through endless new and powerful narrative to shift attention away from systemic
value-added food products and increasingly sophisticated flaws in production (Jacob and Powell 2009).
marketing campaigns (Lapierre et al. 2011). However, Lastly, an appeal to higher loyalties may represent the
a strictly profit-oriented production approach will not result most powerful technique of neutralization associated with
in the best outcomes for society (Burkhardt 1992). Because industrial food processing. Actions of food processors
consumers are dependent upon the decisions of food continue to illustrate loyalties to productionist ideologies,
companies, these companies have a social obligation to profitability, and unwavering faith in science and technol-
provide safe food (Early 2002). In the face of repeated ogy. These loyalties represent the central tenets guiding
outbreaks, we contend that powerful food companies uti- modern industrialization. In the food industry, research and
lize techniques of neutralization to avoid accusations of development has long focused on maximizing production.
unethical conduct and deter significant reform. We explore Maximizing production while reducing labor results in
techniques of neutralization as a possible explanation as to increased profits, as food processors remain first and
how anti-reflexivity movements continue to maintain risky foremost profit-driven operations. In addition, unques-
food production systems. tioned loyalty to technology, or ‘‘technophilia’’ (Burkhardt
Originating from the sociology of deviance and disor- 1992), continue to shape organization and responses to
ganization, Sykes and Matza (1957) outline five techniques problems. Thompson (2001) describes how science and
of neutralization used by delinquents to rationalize their productionist goals foster ‘‘optimization’’ as a guiding
actions: (1) denial of responsibility, (2) denial of injury, (3) principle in the food industry. Optimization balances ben-
denial of the victim, (4) condemnation of the condemners, efits and harms; however, industry reaps the benefits
and (5) appeal to higher loyalties. Since they were first put (profits) while externalizing harms. These loyalties shape
forth, these techniques have been further defined and the production systems that continue to foster widespread
explored in a variety of other contexts (e.g., Vitell and outbreaks of foodborne illness.
Grove 1987; Umphress and Bingham 2010). We propose In this paper, we apply these concepts to empirically
that these techniques of neutralization should be explored explore two commodities linked to widespread outbreaks
to better understand ethical rationalization and the success of foodborne illness: ground beef and bagged salad greens.
of anti-reflexivity movements in industrial food production. In each case, we highlight the industrial changes that have
In the context of food safety, at least three of these tech- fostered large-scale and concentrated production systems
niques help to explain continued resistance to reflexive and how these specific changes have shaped problems with
change in industrial food processing: denial of responsi- widespread foodborne illness. We also examine the
bility, denial of the victim, and appeal to higher loyalties. responses to repeated food scares and argue that these
Underlying the denial of responsibility is the argument responses do not constitute reflexive change. Instead, we
that external conditions beyond an individual’s control (or illustrate how food companies have engaged in anti-
a company’s control in the case of food processing) are at reflexivity movements to inhibit significant changes in food
fault for a negative outcome. In many cases food pro- production. Lastly, we explore how techniques of neutral-
cessing companies have denied responsibility for out- ization help to explain the success of the anti-reflexivity
breaks, blaming others for contamination (Nestle 2003). movements that continue to resist reshaping food produc-
For example, companies may blame upstream sources of tion to better protect consumers.

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290 D. Stuart, M. R. Worosz

Industrial food processing and foodborne illness assembly line fashion. However, speed was ‘‘balanced by
precise hand labor,’’ taking approximately 70 men to dress
Before World War II, food production in the US involved out 60 cattle in an hour (Horowitz 2006, p. 37). In general,
far less processing that was done by smaller, more disperse dressed beef was sent to neighborhood butchers to be cut
facilities. Mimicking trends in other industries, food man- for consumers. Food safety was overseen by the US
ufacturers made strategic changes that reduced costs, Department of Agriculture (USDA) and was limited to
increased production, and increased surplus labor value. organoleptics, or ‘‘poke and sniff,’’ in large-scale pack-
Processors use automated devices such as washing, mixing, inghouses (Libecap 1992; Yeager 1981). For nearly half a
shaping, and chopping machines capable of processing century, this production system remained essentially
large quantities of food rapidly. To increase returns on unchanged: between 1899 and 1954, output per man-hour
capital investments, production systems have become increased only 0.5% per year (Skaggs 1986).
increasingly centralized and concentrated with fewer pro- In the decades following World War II, new tools
cessing plants producing the majority of food. Labor has (i.e., continuous rail, hide skinners and washers, mechani-
been reduced, mechanization has increased, and produc- cal knives and saws) and architectural designs facilitated a
tivity has grown to levels previously thought unimaginable. 15% increase in meatpacking productivity (Skaggs 1986).
Despite achievements in production, large-scale industrial This era also saw the first major change in food safety for
processing systems are linked to unprecedented widespread beef production, the Wholesome Meat Act.1 In addition to
outbreaks of foodborne illness. These outbreaks stem from direct and continuous inspection, subsequent regulations
the emergence and spread of bacterial pathogens, such as centered on building materials and designs as a means of
Escherichia coli and Salmonella (see CFSAN 2009). Here improving sanitation (Wiser 1986). New independent firms
we examine two cases of industrial processing: ground beef grew rapidly by building ‘‘state-of-the-art’’ facilities in
and bagged salads. non-unionized, ‘‘right-to-work’’ Midwestern states where
Our case studies are informed by extensive literature they could pay lower wages (Gouveia and Juska 2002) and
reviews, personal interviews, and visits to processing be closer to livestock producing areas (Skaggs 1986). New
facilities. For each case, extensive literature reviews were entrants, such as Cargill and ConAgra, drove out smaller
conducted of peer-reviewed journal articles, newspaper and and older slaughter plants (Ollinger et al. 2005) and
magazine articles, and government documents and business industry concentration tripled between 1977 and 1992.
reports. Regarding the ground beef case study, observations Today, the top three suppliers control 81% of the packing
took place in small and large-scale slaughter and process- industry (Mintel 2008a). The top four US beef packers
ing facilities in Michigan between 2007 and 2008 and in slaughter 400 cattle an hour (Fitzgerald 2010) and process
Alabama in 2008. During this time, interviews took place more than 94,000 head a day (Hendrickson and Heffernan
with facility operators and staff responsible for regulatory 2007).
compliance, as well as a regional food safety director. Ground beef and pre-made hamburger patties make up
Multiple discussions with key informants took place the largest segment of the beef processing industry
between 2009 and 2011. For the bagged salads case study, (Romans et al. 2001; Giamalva et al. 2008). Between 1982
interviews were conducted between 2006 and 2009 in the and 1992, patty production increased by 154%, largely due
Central Coast region of California, where a large portion of to demand from fast food restaurants. To meet this demand
US leafy greens are produced. Interview respondents for inexpensive mass-produced products, processing facil-
included crop growers, salad processors, food safety ities reshaped how they operate: plant size doubled, new
auditors, government employees, and representatives from technologies were adopted, line speeds increased 50–80%
food and agriculture organizations. Data in each case were (Fitzgerald 2010), and employee wages and selling prices
analyzed qualitatively to identify key themes and findings. dropped. To make large quantities at low costs, ground
beef processors may grind 4,000–12,000 pounds of beef an
Ground beef hour continuously for 20 h a day (Armstrong et al. 1996).
These facilities often ‘‘commingle meat from many car-
The industrialization of ground beef casses’’ (MacDonald et al. 1996, p. 783). Plants that make
frozen hamburger patties can produce up to 10,000 pounds
Processing for ground beef can be loosely divided into per hour using ‘‘a continuous system of grinding, blending,
slaughter and post-slaughter value-added facilities. The forming, freezing, and packaging such that the product
former has been detailed quite extensively in the literature flow never stops’’ (Romans et al. 2001, p. 665).
(Fitzgerald 2010; Horowitz 2006; Libecap 1992; Sinclair
1906; Yeager 1981). At the turn of the 20th century, pro-
1
cessing in slaughter facilities was already organized in an Wholesome Meat Act. 81 Stat. 584. United States, 1967.

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Risk, anti-reflexivity, and ethical neutralization in industrial food processing 291

Outbreaks process puts the whole inspection (system) at risk’’ (Hauter


2008, p. 45).
Thousands of illnesses have been linked to beef con- In addition, commingling of sources remains an
sumption, particularly ground beef. The Center for Science important factor in widespread outbreaks. At the time of
in the Public Interest counts 428 outbreaks associated with Hudson’s recall, its quality assistance director acknowl-
beef between 1998 and 2007 involving 9,824 illnesses edged that ‘‘the way ground meat is processed…a little
(DeWaal et al. 2009). The pathogen of greatest concern is poison goes a long way’’ (Galosich 1997b). When ground
Escherichia coli (E. coli) O157:H7. The most notable beef goes to a patty making plant, the facility regrinds the
outbreak was the 1993 case linked to Jack in the Box product with other sources of beef. One epidemiological
hamburgers that sickened 732 people across four states in study found that: (1) the raw ingredients used by one
the Pacific Northwest. Of those who became ill, 195 were company were sourced from 11 different companies, (2)
hospitalized and four children died. Since that time, there these source companies were located in two different
have been numerous beef recalls for suspected E. coli states, and (3) each of these companies sourced their
O157:H7 contamination (CDC 2011; FSIS 2011). The two ingredients from other companies (Armstrong et al. 1996).
largest cases by volume were linked to Hudson Foods and Similarly, when ground beef goes to a grocer, it may be
Topps Meat. re-ground with two-day old products from their shelves,
The Hudson Foods Company of Arkansas was a supplier as well as leftover table trimmings from their in-store
for Burger King, Boston Market, and Wal-Mart, with processing.
annual sales of approximately $90 million (Cooper 1997). Industrial scales of production increase the extent of
In 1997, the company was linked to 16 cases of E. coli contamination and the number of illnesses. Concentration
O157:H7 in Colorado (FSIS 1997). An investigation found in meatpacking leads to larger lots of ground beef being
that Hudson engaged in ‘‘reworking,’’ a practice of mixing produced with the same machinery. An increase in lot size
meat from one day into the next day’s run, but did not has the potential to increase the volume of contaminated
assign a new batch number. Poor recordkeeping prevented meat (Armstrong et al. 1996). Government testing has
full trace-back of the contaminated meat. The company’s found that ground beef from larger plants ‘‘has a higher
microbial testing program was also found deficient. As a prevalence of pathogens than the ground beef from small
result, the USDA requested a 25 million pound recall, plants’’ (Food & Water Watch 2009, p. 37). Due to industry
making it the largest Class I (highest risk) recall for ground consolidation, larger numbers of hamburger patties are
beef to date. coming from a smaller number of processors. When con-
Ten years later, similar issues arose in the case of Topps tamination occurs, a larger number of consumers across a
Meat Company, a leading patty producer in New Jersey wide geographic area become at risk.
and a core supplier to Wal-Mart with annual sales of
$90 million (Linstedt 2007). In 2007, Topps hamburgers Responses
were found to be contaminated with E. coli O157:H7 and
linked to 40 confirmed illnesses in eight US states and 45 The magnitude of the Hudson and Topps recalls contrib-
illnesses and one death in five Canadian provinces (Reiser uted to widespread news coverage, complaints from con-
2007a). Similar to the Hudson case, investigators found sumer groups, and Congressional hearings, all of which
that Topps reworked their meat and failed to keep adequate focused on food safety governance rather than production
records (CDC 2007; Reiser 2007a). Investigators also systems. Industry groups, such as the National Meat
found that Topps did not maintain an adequate testing Association and the American Meat Institute, played a
program. The USDA requested a Class I recall of nearly major role in deflecting attention away from ground beef
22 million pounds. processors and toward other sectors in the supply chain.
There are several specific practices linked to the spread They focused blame upstream, highlighting how cattle shed
of E. coli in ground beef. First, the primary cause of E. coli pathogenic strains of E. coli. They also directed blame
is commonly thought to be cross-contamination in downstream to retailers that sell suspect hamburger meat.
slaughter facilities during hide removal (Brichta-Harhay However, primary attention was focused on the USDA,
et al. 2008). Investigations of Hudson and Topps suggest slaughterhouses, and consumers.
that this may have been the root of their contamination as Microbial testing and Hazard Analysis and Critical
well. Another related issue is production speed. As the pace Control Points (HACCP) regulation, instituted after the
of production increases, particularly during slaughter, both Jack in the Box outbreak, represent the official responses to
workers and inspectors make an increasing number of E. coli O157:H7 outbreaks associated with beef. As doc-
mistakes (Hennessy 2005; Hughlett 2010). An inspector umented elsewhere (e.g., Fortin 2003; Schuller 1998;
was quoted as saying ‘‘people are tired and I think the Stearns 2005), HACCP regulations were created according

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292 D. Stuart, M. R. Worosz

to industry’s terms. Behind closed doors, industry leaders 2007). The agency also made public claims that it would
had great ‘‘capacity to persuade and coerce’’ others reexamine HACCP and increase testing (FSIS 2007; Reiser
involved in rule-making (Juska et al. 2000, p. 264). Rather 2007b). Rather than addressing large-scale production, the
than a system of direct oversight, HACCP relies on a FSIS focused on the procedures in small plants. A 75%
system of audits (Dunn 2007). HACCP did not include a expansion of their testing program was well publicized
statutory change, which means that the USDA can only (FSIS 2009), but the lack of statistical significance was
‘‘recommend’’ a recall when contamination is found. overlooked. For example, only ‘‘0.0002% of ground beef is
Despite their influence in creating HACCP, industry asso- actually used by FSIS for E. coli 0157:H7 detection’’
ciations have been critical of its implementation. For (Dodd and Powell 2009, p. 744).
example, the Food Safety and Inspection Service (FSIS) Within the meat industry, technological fixes remain the
has been criticized for slowness in completing microbial primary mechanism to minimize future outbreaks. Most
tests and for their tacit approval of suspect practices. large meatpackers have adopted ‘‘interventions.’’ Inter-
Examining discourse associated with the Hudson and ventions include carcass cleaning with steam-pasteuriza-
Topps cases reveals similar patterns in responses to out- tion and decontamination activities that take place after
breaks. Regarding Hudson Foods, employees claimed that hide removal, such as the use of organic acid, acidified
their facility was modern, advanced, and well maintained, sodium chlorite, acidified calcium sulfate, gaseous ammo-
suggesting that the source of the problem lay elsewhere. nia, and irradiation (FSIS 2007). Some of these interven-
The business community portrayed the plant as a ‘‘little tions, however, have a negative effect. For example, when
guy’’ getting picked on. An industry consultant said that rinses are applied over large areas of a carcass, they can
Hudson had become a whipping post (Galosich 1997a). spread contamination and render it invisible, although still
Others outside the food sector stated that ‘‘there’s always present in sufficient quantities to be harmful (Hauter 2008;
somebody … trying to downgrade the meat industry’’ and Juska et al. 2003). Showing a commitment to new tech-
that the case was blown out of proportion as ‘‘nobody’s nologies has averted calls for substantive changes that
died’’ (Belluck 1997). Despite claims that they were rig- might reduce efficiency and profitability, such as slowing
orous in protecting food safety (Cooper 1997), Hudson line speeds, reducing the amount of commingling, holding
refused to recall their product until the FSIS threatened to products until confirmation of a test result, and allowing
withdraw its inspectors, which would shut down the plant. buyers to retest incoming products (Moss 2009a).
After the 2007 outbreak, Topps was portrayed as an Emphasizing advanced food safety technologies also serves
upstanding community citizen—a family-run business that to shift the onus of food safety onto consumers.
had operated for nearly 70 years without incident. Ignored Industry discourse surrounding consumers and E. coli
was the fact that the company had been owned and oper- focus on two core issues: food handling and attitudes
ated by an investment firm for 4 years prior to the out- toward ionizing radiation. Both industry and the govern-
break. While Hudson’s recall took place during the early ment regularly cite consumer failure to follow sound hand
stages of HACCP, when it had yet to be fully implemented, washing, preparation, and storage guidelines, and most
the outbreak associated with Topps required public expla- importantly, their failure to cook ground beef to its
nation. The USDA took two approaches: the Under ‘‘proper’’ temperature (i.e., 160F). Currently, the industry
Secretary for Food Safety pointed to the lack of recall argues that its only viable alternative is to completely
authority, while investigators blamed plant employees for destroy pathogens with irradiation. While some acknowl-
lying. More serious problems were revealed after the edge that irradiation creates product quality problems and
Associated Press (Gold 2008) used the Freedom of Infor- plant retrofit concerns, it is consumers’ unwillingness to
mation Act to find that Topps used damaged equipment, buy irradiated meat that is cited as preventing widespread
did not follow their own sanitation procedures, and had an adoption of this pathogen destroying technology. Overall,
incomplete HACCP plan. Moreover, their testing protocol industry leaders in the beef sector have stymied attempts to
was designed to never find pathogens and to never slow the substantially address food safety and have shifted attention
production process (Gold 2008). and responsibility onto other parties in the agrifood system.
Repeated recalls and outbreaks have forced the gov-
ernment to respond, however food safety regulation Bagged salad greens
remains weak. In 1997, there were eight recalls for ground
beef. In 2007, there were 24 ground beef recalls, with more The industrialization of salad
than 83% for E. coli O157:H7 (FSIS 2011). To avert cri-
tique, the Undersecretary argued on national television that Bagged salads first originated in the San Francisco area in
recalls demonstrate that ‘‘we are on the job … and we 1986 and were produced at a small scale. Upon realizing
respond when we find problems’’ (Sarasota Herald-Tribune the potential of this product, in 1989 Fresh Express created

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Risk, anti-reflexivity, and ethical neutralization in industrial food processing 293

the first large-scale processed salad production system. greens are spun in industrial-sized salad spinners (centri-
Dole and other large-scale processors quickly followed. fuge dryers) and then packaged for distribution.
This value-added product allowed processors to pay
farmers relatively little for salad greens while adding Outbreaks
considerable value through processing and packaging.
Salad greens are processed at large scales with minimal In recent years, widespread outbreaks of foodborne illness
labor. Greens are mechanically harvested, sent to central- and massive recalls have been associated with processed
ized processing facilities, and then washed, chopped, and salad greens. The largest outbreak occurred in 2006 when
packaged by machines. For restaurants this dramatically close to 200 illnesses and at least 3 deaths from E. coli
cuts down the labor involved in salad preparation. Pre- O157:H7 were traced to bagged spinach with a Dole label
processed salad greens also save time and labor for con- from California (CDC 2010). These illnesses and deaths
sumers eating at home. Sales of bagged salads increased occurred in 26 US states and Canada. In the same year,
approximately 560% between 1993 and 1999 (ERS 2001). 71 individuals across five states became ill from E. coli
Between 2005 and 2007, sales grew from $2.4 billion to O157:H7 traced to processed lettuce served at Taco Bell
$3.9 billion and are estimated to continue to grow by 204% restaurants (CDC 2010). Bacterial contamination in salad
between 2008 and 2012 (Mintel 2008b). With over products continues to be an issue with more recalls,
$2.5 billion in annual US sales (Consumer Reports 2006), including three recalls by Fresh Express between May and
processed greens are highly lucrative for companies like August of 2010. Recalls often involve tens of thousands of
Dole and Fresh Express who together control 72% of the bags of salad distributed nationwide. For example, the
processed salads market (Mintel 2008b). August 2010 Fresh Express recall involved over 30,000
To provide large quantities of greens, production vol- bags with 22 different product labels distributed in at least
umes have been maximized and labor reduced at the farm 26 states (FDA 2010).
level (Friedland et al. 1981). Technological changes These outbreaks have been linked to large-scale
include the adoption of mechanical mowers to cut greens. processing systems. According to the Community Alliance
In the past many workers harvested greens by hand. Now, with Family Farmers, of all the outbreaks of E. coli
only one worker is required to mow greens while another O157:H7 from salad greens traced back to California since
may walk in front of the mower to inspect for wildlife, 1995, processed products were responsible for over 98% of
animal feces, or foreign objects. Harvesting is commonly all illnesses (CAFF 2008). Changes in processing, includ-
done at night to maximize freshness. Greens collected by ing consolidation and mass distribution, have been spe-
mowers go into large bins and are trucked to processing cifically cited by scientists at the Centers for Disease
plants. Control and Prevention as a factor contributing to the
To produce large quantities of greens at low cost, increasing prevalence of foodborne disease from produce
industrial processors designed production systems that (Altekruse et al. 1997). According to one news report, Dole
maximized processing volumes and minimized labor. and Fresh Express truck their greens to ‘‘centralized pro-
Companies therefore have only a few centralized facilities cessing plants where tainted and untainted leaves can be
with mechanical processing. Companies harvest and buy mixed during chopping, washing, and bagging,’’ thus
greens from dispersed regions and ship them to large increasing the likelihood for larger and more widespread
facilities where the greens are mixed together. For exam- outbreaks (Engel and Lin 2007).
ple, Dole has four vegetable processing plants in the US: Interview respondents with inside knowledge of salad
one in California, Arizona, Ohio, and North Carolina. processing largely agreed that specific factors make pro-
Therefore, lettuce and greens grown on farms throughout cessed greens inherently ‘‘less safe’’ than heads or bunches
the US will be processed at one of these four facilities. of greens. First, mechanical harvesting increases chances
While salad processing facilities vary in design, many that other material (e.g., animal feces) could be collected
function based on the same principles using similar and brought into the processing plant. Compared to hand
equipment. Salad materials move at high speeds along harvesting, mechanization reduces the chances that con-
conveyer belts and/or through large tubes. The process is tamination will be identified. Second, due to centralization,
highly mechanized, producing thousands of bags of salad contamination from one farm can spread to impact large
per hour. The greens brought into the facility are mixed quantities of greens within flumes. Food safety scientists
together in a series of one or more vats of water called agree that the legal levels of chlorine that may be used in
‘‘flumes.’’ A flume usually contains chlorinated water to flumes are not high enough to kill all bacteria present.
kill bacteria. Either before or after the flumes, greens are A fecal clump in a flume may take up to an hour to wash
sorted on conveyer belts to remove debris. Then, the greens through, while up to 5,000 bags of salad may be contam-
are cut to size and washed multiple times. Lastly, the inated in these high-speed systems. Multiple washings

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294 D. Stuart, M. R. Worosz

following this exposure will not remove or kill all patho- Much attention is given to worker hygiene: what is allowed
gens. Therefore, this system may be mass producing small on the farm, personal attire, and cleanliness. Additional
traces of pathogens that can impact hundreds or even measures focus on cleaning farm equipment and monitor-
thousands of consumers. Third, industry insiders agree that ing bathroom use and hand washing. Another central focus
the bag itself can serve as an incubator to culture bacteria, is the role of wildlife and livestock. While little evidence
especially if exposed to warm temperatures. supports that wildlife constitute a serious threat to food
safety (Beretti and Stuart 2008), certain animals have been
Responses designated as ‘‘animals of significant risk’’ in new stan-
dards and farmers have adopted a variety of eradication
Following the 2006 spinach outbreak, a long investigation measures (Stuart 2008, 2009). These standards focus on the
was initiated to trace contamination. This investigation later farm level and fail to address centralized processing and
proved largely inconclusive regarding how cattle manure cross-contamination.
appeared inside the salad processing plant. In the meantime, Interviews with leafy greens growers and other industry
many groups looked for someone or something to blame insiders indicate a strong belief that LGMA rules focus
(Todd et al. 2007). Initially, individuals in the salad industry more on increasing the image of safety, rather than
blamed organic production and the use of manure. While the addressing actual risks. Responding to a reported 18-year
processing plant linked to the outbreak was used for organic low in consumer confidence (FMI 2007), the produce
products, the spinach in question was not organically pro- industry has focused efforts on boosting their image.
duced. In addition, the use of raw manure is prohibited in A produce association representative explained that the
organic production and there are stringent guidelines for new food safety standards are part of a ‘‘process to win
composting to kill bacteria. Many also pointed fingers at back the confidence of consumers’’ (Wood 2007). Partici-
wildlife and ‘‘dirty’’ farm workers. While this was not a pants of the LGMA rule-making process admitted there
position taken public by the produce industry, interviews was a lack of scientific evidence to support rules and that
indicated a common belief that the affected consumers certain measures were included because they ‘‘look good’’
should have washed their spinach more thoroughly. rather than known effectiveness. A veteran food safety
Blame was also directed toward the government for a auditor claimed that, in his opinion, about 70% of the items
lack of food safety oversight; however, the produce on food safety checklists are irrelevant to food safety.
industry in California quickly rejected any form of gov- In addition to LGMA rules, processing facilities have
ernment regulation. Prior to the outbreak, no formal food expanded their own food safety programs and, as seen in the
safety rules existed for produce. Government agencies do meat industry, have adopted technological fixes. Most
not specifically regulate produce as they do meat, dairy, processors adopted HACCP as their guide as well as new
eggs, and other foods. After the outbreak, various groups in trace-back systems. A range of technologies have been
California mobilized to address food safety for produce. explored and/or added to processing systems. These include
While consumer groups and state legislators moved to the use of a chlorophyll sensor to identify and remove non-
pass new food safety standards, agribusiness supporters plant materials and new washing agents, such as ozone.
thwarted their attempts. Proposed rules were labeled as Fresh Express recently announced the use of a new acid
‘‘draconian’’ by leaders in the produce industry. They rinse, called ‘‘FreshRinse,’’ claiming it is more effective
claimed that government regulations would impair than chlorine (Neuman 2010). In addition, irradiation has
California agriculture and that industry should create their been developed and approved by the FDA for iceberg let-
own rules. Agribusiness loyalists stalled bills in legislative tuce and spinach (Harris 2008). However, limitations exist
committees and movements to create new food safety regarding the use of irradiation for greens: current tech-
standards collapsed after Governor Schwarzenegger pub- nologies are expensive, would slow production rates, and
licly supported the produce industry’s efforts to create their may impact taste and texture. Overall, despite attention
own rules. from food system critics (e.g., Nestle 2006; Pollan 2006;
In 2007, the California produce industry introduced new Schlosser 2006), very little attention has been focused on
food safety rules as a part of the California Leafy Greens the role of centralized processing in recent outbreaks.
Marketing Agreement (LGMA). The LGMA remains
‘‘voluntary’’ but now includes 99% of the volume of leafy
greens in the state (LGMA 2010). Personal interviews Risk, reflexivity, and anti-reflexivity in industrial
revealed that a team of industry ‘‘experts,’’ including food processing
leaders from large processing firms, created the rules
behind closed doors. New standards under the LGMA Drawing from the work of Beck (1992), we have illustrated
focus on specific aspects of production at the farm level. how technological and organizational changes in

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Risk, anti-reflexivity, and ethical neutralization in industrial food processing 295

industrialized food production have resulted in unforeseen problems and that systems need to be restructured to adapt
risks, namely unprecedented widespread outbreaks of to side effects. Reorganizing production to better protect
foodborne illness. Strategic decisions to increase produc- consumers would entail transitioning to a more decentral-
tivity and decrease labor have resulted in large-scale, ized system that avoids large-scale cross-contamination
concentrated, and high-speed production systems that (DeLind and Howard, 2008). While foodborne illness has
commingle food from many sources. As illustrated by Beck also been associated with products from small-scale pro-
(1992, p.40), decisions made for economic purposes that do ducers and processors, in these cases significantly fewer
not consider the range of possible consequences can lead to consumers are impacted and supply chains are shorter
catastrophic outcomes: ‘‘modernization risks occur around making tracing quicker and easier. Processing smaller
systemic causes that coincide with the motor of progress volumes of food and at slower speeds can increase the
and profit. They relate to the scale and expansion of haz- effectiveness of inspection and testing, reduce cross-con-
ards.’’ In this case, processing systems aimed to maximize tamination, and allow for more adaptive capacity as
profits have resulted in outbreaks of foodborne illness problems emerge. However, responses from the ground
impacting many consumers across wide geographical beef and salad industries have not shown signs of reflex-
areas. This provides further evidence to support the work of ivity in these terms. In addition, the State remains largely
Charles Perrow (1999) on normal accidents, where system captured by industry interests, limiting the range of pos-
complexity, coupling, and systemic flaws can lead to sible government actions. Therefore, reactions to outbreaks
widespread disasters. show a continued reliance on modernist views of problem
In a risk society, citizens become increasingly aware of solving through technological fixes. Due to a lack of
harms associated with industrial processes and begin to reflexivity, current responses may reinforce or exacerbate
question institutions and call for change. While this paper problems. For example, new requirements from HAACP
does not focus on consumers, in recent decades more and marketing agreements create financial hardship for
consumers have become aware of the side effects of smaller producers and may further contribute to industry
industrial food production, including foodborne illness. consolidation and concentration (Worosz et al. 2008b).
More consumers have become skeptical of industrial pro- Food processors and agribusiness leaders have not only
duction and choose to support food from local, small-scale avoided reflexively changing production systems, but have
sources that they know and trust (Hendrickson and Hef- engaged in anti-reflexivity movements to thwart progres-
fernan 2002; Lockie 2006). However, these alternative sive food safety reform. As illustrated in each case, the
markets involve a small portion of the total food supply. food industry has greatly influenced responses to out-
Many consumers remain dependent on and/or complacent breaks. They have framed issues to protect their image and
about cheap industrial food. Even in cases where we do have strategically influenced policy makers and shaped or
find increasing consumer reflexivity (Chen 2008), we do created food safety rules to suit production goals. Industry
not find a similar level of reflexivity among the food pro- leaders continue to impede and/or weaken government
cessors responsible for the majority of the food supply. responses to foodborne illness and efforts to address out-
Despite repeated outbreaks of foodborne illness, indus- breaks avoid significant changes in production systems.
trial food processors have not shown signs of reflexivity. Anti-reflexivity movements have been very successful:
Technological fixes, in both ground beef and salad pro- concentrated production systems remain in place, food
cessing, serve to divert attention away from ongoing safety laws remain weak, and productivity and profits
problems with cross-contamination. New technologies can continue to be prioritized over consumer protection.
reduce the amount of bacteria that survive within pro-
cessing systems; however, this reduction remains inade-
quate because any small amounts of contamination will be Techniques of neutralization
amplified through cross-contamination. The USDA’s HA-
ACP program increases microbial testing, but may be lar- Identifying specific techniques of neutralization (Sykes and
gely ineffective due to increased vulnerability from the Matza 1957) can help to explain more explicitly how anti-
amplification of any low level contamination (Juska et al. reflexivity movements defend the continuation of industrial-
2003). In addition, testing large volumes of food becomes scale food processing despite ongoing issues with food safety.
complex and less effective because contamination is not Processors may use these techniques to convince themselves
uniformly distributed. Technological innovations represent or others that their actions do not constitute unethical behav-
un-reflexive, end-of-pipe treatments that do not address ior. For both ground beef and bagged salads, we explore how
issues with production designs. denial of responsibility, denial of the victim, and appeals to
According to Beck et al. (2003) a reflexive response higher loyalties play an important role in neutralizing ethical
involves a realization that quick fixes will not solve questions about industrial food production.

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296 D. Stuart, M. R. Worosz

Denial of responsibility: where to point the finger who now struggle to meet new food safety standards
(Stuart 2009).
Industry organizations typically have the loudest voice
following foodborne disease outbreaks and use this plat- Denial of the victim: improper consumer food handling
form to deny responsibility and divert attention to other
parties. Regarding ground beef, these groups successfully There is a long history of food companies denying the
frame discourse such that any concerns about production existence of true victims of foodborne illness, typically
practices that reach the public sphere are disregarded. through claims that consumers brought illness upon
The cases of Hudson and Topps illustrate how blame is themselves by not preparing food properly. Regarding
shifted away from the processors and toward seemingly ground beef, most discourse centers on insufficient cooking
more powerful entities: slaughterhouses and the USDA. temperatures. Following the outbreak associated with
Hamburger plants claim they are not at fault because Hudson Foods a representative of the Beef Industry
tainted meat comes from outside sources and they have no Council on Food Safety stated, ‘‘people need to know how
way to know if raw product is contaminated. As a Hudson to handle and cook beef’’ (O’Dwyer’s PR Services Report
spokesperson stated, it may not even be possible to deter- 1997). According to Texas Food Industry Association v.
mine how many sources of beef are in a batch (Galosich Espy,2 traditional American cooking of beef, somewhere
1997b). Furthering this suggestion of innocence, conver- between rare and medium (i.e., up to 150F), is not suffi-
sations following the outbreaks associated with Hudson cient to kill pathogenic E. coli; therefore, it remains an
and Topps evoked a sense of domestic quality and com- adulterant despite industry attempts to blame consumers
munity embeddedness (Murdoch et al. 2000). Ignoring for not cooking meat sufficiently. In addition, industry
fundamental problems, the State has largely supported groups fault consumers who resist the adoption of tech-
industry goals, but has also been the target of industry nologies to remove or kill pathogens (e.g., irradiation).
critique. Industry groups accuse the USDA of giving too Labor advances this notion of consumer responsibility via
little attention to slaughterhouses and for not controlling neutralization (Umphress and Bingham 2010). In claiming
E. coli elsewhere in the supply chain, yet they do not that they take all necessary precautions, workers help to
support increased oversight or authority. By shifting blame facilitate the transfer of culpability. The conversation sur-
to other parties, including the USDA, the meat industry has rounding the Hudson case illustrates a more underhanded
continued to protect its ‘‘right’’ to police itself and maintain approach, denying the status of victims altogether, except
large-scale production systems. in the case of death. This position negates the gravity and
Similarly, the salad processing industry has directed the the burden of all other acute and chronic health conse-
bulk of the blame towards growers and wildlife, both quences from E. coli 0157:H7 infection (e.g., kidney fail-
upstream factors out of their control. This has resulted in ure, coma, loss of bowel and bladder function) (see, e.g.,
new food safety requirements for growers focused on Moss 2009b; Roberts et al. 2009). Overall, the meat
worker hygiene and keeping wildlife away from crops. industry continues to find ways to blame consumers for
This puts tremendous pressure on growers to solve food their own illness.
safety problems. Some processors require growers to sign In the case of processed salad greens, denial of the
liability waivers to accept blame for future outbreaks traced victim is less visible but still present. Following the 2006
to their produce. This diverts attention away from the role spinach outbreak the processing industry did not publicly
of processing. A former salad industry executive stated: fault consumers, although some growers and processors
felt that consumers failed to adequately wash their spinach.
The processors were smart to blame the growers
One grower stated: ‘‘just because it says triple washed
straight away. They are also the major players behind
doesn’t mean it is clean. Consumers need to wash it.’’ This
the LGMA. They point the finger at the growers, but
suggests that consumers are either ignorant or lazy.
it is really the flume that is the problem. It just shows
Blaming the consumer for their own illness may become
you who has the PR and the muscle here.
less common with leafy greens now that trace-back
Processors continue to use high-volume systems where mechanisms and DNA tests provide more information
large quantities of greens can be cross-contaminated in about the sources of contamination. Regarding leafy greens
the flume water. According to industry insiders, blaming contamination, Michael Doyle at the Center for Food
growers and wildlife was a strategic move to divert Safety stated that until recently ‘‘the industry believed the
attention away from flaws in processing. Focusing on
up-stream sources of contamination served to justify the 2
Texas Food Industry Association et al. v. Mike Espy et al. 870 F.
continued use of high-volume production systems. Proces- Supp. 143: United States District Court, W.D. Texas, December 13,
sors successfully shifted the responsibility to crop growers, 1994.

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Risk, anti-reflexivity, and ethical neutralization in industrial food processing 297

major problems were not in the fields or the processing line. A representative from a retailer association claimed:
facilities but in homes and restaurants where cross-con- ‘‘food safety is our number one concern because we can’t
tamination with beef products was occurring.’’ He states afford food safety problems.’’ Industry insiders admit that
that now with DNA tests they ‘‘have a smoking gun.’’ they only adopt food safety measures that are ‘‘practical,’’
Doyle says: ‘‘We have definitive data to show industry that and will not consider restructuring or adopting measures
the problems go back to the fields and processing plants’’ that would reduce profitability. One executive claimed:
(Burros 2006). Denial of the victim may become less vis- ‘‘we want safe products, but with no additional cost to the
ible publicly; however, it remains a common and powerful system.’’
narrative within the food industry. Most companies will not consider changes that do not
enhance efficiency and/or profitability. These loyalties
Appeal to higher loyalties: profitability, efficiency, support the continuation of high-volume, concentrated food
and technology production systems. Appealing to efficiency and profit-
ability not only guides industrial decision-making, but may
The beef industry has shown its concern about food safety also serve to rationalize behavior to policy makers and
by adopting new technologies. However, like many other consumers. The US government continues to succumb to
industries, it remains loyal to capitalist logic. Thus, inno- industry appeals to maintain profitable food production
vative tools and designs are applied to maximize output systems, despite increasing evidence of negative external-
and minimize cost. An inherent side effect is continued ities (Nestle 2003). While we did not include consumers in
outbreaks and recalls. Maintaining current high-volume our analysis, we encourage further research that may reveal
processing systems has been prioritized over approaches how certain groups of consumers may support efficient and
that may reduce cross-contamination. Both Hudson and profitable food production systems, despite widespread
Topps, for example, were leading producers of ground beef outbreaks of foodborne illness or other associated impacts.
patties. They both had modern plants with technologies There are many possible explanations, including: (1) blind
designed to make processing safer, yet they had lapses in trust in the food system, (2) fatalism, (3) valuing price over
compliance with sanitation rules that they created them- safety, (4) cognitive dissonance, and (5) recall fatigue.
selves. They both followed industry standards of practice; Moreover, consumer support may simply be the outcome
however, these rules were designed to prioritize profit- of industry efforts to mask flaws in production.
ability over food safety. While they were generally com- Appeals to technology also serve to neutralize ethical
pliant with federal regulations, both took short cuts to questions in food production. In both the ground beef and
decrease costs. Even though it is well known that ground bagged salads sectors, the adoption of technology served to
beef from large-scale facilities may lead to extensive legitimize industry responses to outbreaks. In each case
contamination, no attempts have been made to limit the ‘‘technophilia’’ (Burkhardt 1992) acted as a guiding prin-
number of sources per lot, redesign production lines, ciple, as seen through technological fixes such as new
reduce line speeds, or restructure the production process. washing agents. Processors continue to promote their use
While HACCP is touted as a science-based food safety of the best science and technologies to eliminate, detect,
system, it does not engage in substantive assessment and/or and trace contamination, often serving as a means of
structural modifications. Instead, by focusing on individual competition between companies who promote their food
plants, the FSIS makes it possible to disregard systemic safety programs. Those who share a strong belief in mod-
issues and to maintain business as usual, prioritizing effi- ernist notions of technological optimism may regard these
ciency and profitability. measures as sufficient. However, this appeal to technology
In the salad greens sector, processing companies con- overlooks the role of production designs while promoting
tinue to prioritize profitability in decision making, which the image of processors taking every precaution to prevent
limits their actions to address food safety. While bagged foodborne illness. This appeal to technology serves to
salads may be less safe than unprocessed produce, pro- neutralize ethical questions that may otherwise cause
duction is justified because the product remains popular greater public concern about industrial food production.
and highly lucrative. A former manager at a processing Together, these techniques help to explain the success of
facility admitted that ‘‘heads of lettuce are much safer’’ but food processing companies in impeding more reflexive
that ‘‘bagged products aren’t going anywhere because they responses to widespread outbreaks of foodborne illness.
make more money for the industry.’’ However, food safety These techniques can neutralize ethical questions that
cannot be ignored. The 2007 low in consumer confidence would otherwise emerge in response to food safety issues.
forced the produce industry to act. New food safety mea- They divert attention away from the continued use of risky
sures are widely explained as a compromise between production designs, despite unprecedented wide-scale
raising consumer confidence and maintaining the bottom outbreaks. While we suggest that these techniques of

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298 D. Stuart, M. R. Worosz

neutralization play an important role in preventing more to the Statutory-Pay-As-You-Go Act and the state of the
reflexive responses, additional case studies are needed to US budget, it remains uncertain if there will be sufficient
further explore these and other techniques used by industry funding for existing programs and very unlikely that new
as well as their effectiveness among consumers and policy mandates will be fully implemented. If implemented, the
makers. FSMA is likely to place additional burdens on small and
very small producers (Knutson and Ribera 2011). Regula-
tions have yet to be drafted, but if they follow previous
Conclusions trends in rule making, they are expected to cause financial
hardship for smaller and alternative producers and to
These case studies illustrate that responses to outbreaks of consequently further consolidation. These approaches
foodborne illness thus far do not constitute reflexive remain un-reflexive, reinforce current problems, and pro-
change. Current approaches to address foodborne illness vide further evidence that anti-reflexivity movements
confirm Latour’s observation that ‘‘all the indicators, far continue to impede significant reform.
from showing a second [reflexive] modernization, bear In this paper we have furthered previous discussions
witness to an expansion of modernization with a ven- about food safety (e.g., Juska et al. 2003; Delind and Howard
geance’’ (2003, p. 45). Within food production systems 2008) by specifically illustrating how economically efficient
industrial leaders continue to cling to modern notions of industrial designs have resulted in widespread outbreaks,
productionism, economies of scale, and technological how current responses to outbreaks lack reflexivity, and how
solutions while successfully thwarting movements to more powerful anti-reflexivity movements use ethical neutral-
holistically protect consumers. While evidence of reflexive ization to thwart significant reform. As the externalities
modernization remains absent in this case, the concept still associated with productionism, profit-orientation, and
represents a powerful narrative to shift attention towards technological optimism in food systems are further exposed,
associated side effects and what alternative responses more citizens may begin to question whether these tenets of
might involve (Latour 2003). industrialization should direct food production. As stated by
According to Beck and others (Beck 1992; Beck et al. Weis (2010, pp. 317–318): ‘‘the deceptive efficiency of
1994; 2003), reflexive modernization involves not only industrial capitalist agriculture and its manifestation in
new forms of organization but also new perspectives. cheap bountiful food have long overshadowed the instability
Increasing reflexivity in food production would entail a and inequalities of the system. This illusion is beginning to
holistic and adaptive approach. System designers would be crack…’’ Despite these trends, whether we will eventually
mindful of relationships and would address sources of witness a reflexive response to negative externalities largely
problems rather than treating symptoms. This is clearly not depends on exposing and countering the strong forces and
the case with current approaches. The food industry con- ideologies that continue to support industrial food produc-
tinues to ignore complex relationships in food systems, tion. Further research on anti-reflexivity movements and
using quick technological fixes to address problems. Critics techniques of neutralization may facilitate this exposure and
of technological fixes argue that they do not solve problems foster re-conceptualizing and re-structuring food production
and that ignoring systemic issues while blindly following systems.
notions of technological progress will only result in more
problems in the future (Scott 2011). Regarding foodborne Acknowledgments The authors would like to acknowledge the
Alabama and Michigan Agricultural Experiment Stations. Funding
illness, Waltner-Toews (1996, p. 178) explains that: ‘‘any for research in California was made possible through an award from
methods proposed to control food-borne diseases that the Estuarine Reserves Division, Office of Ocean and Coastal
ignore this complexity are unlikely to be sustainable, and Resource Management, National Ocean Service, United States
indeed, will likely create more problems—and more seri- National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. Additional
funding for research in California was provided through a National
ous problems—than they solve.’’ Science Foundation Doctoral Dissertation Improvement Grant.
This discussion takes on greater significance when Lastly, we greatly appreciate comments from reviewers, and espe-
examining new food safety legislation. After years of cially the Editor, Harvey James.
debate (Worosz 2009), the FDA Food Safety Moderniza-
tion Act (FSMA) was finally signed into law on January 4,
2011. Like the rules governing beef, the FSMA does not References
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