INTERIOR FAQs

PRODUCT APPLICATION

Q: How can I avoid overlap marks when I'm painting?

A: Try not to paint too large of an area at one time. Overlapping occurs when a freshly
painted section begins to dry before you start painting the adjoining area.

Q: When touching up a wall painted with latex semi-gloss, how do I avoid shiners,
halos and outlines without repainting the entire wall?

A: Repair the defects first. Then scuff sand the area around the patched area and apply a
drywall primer. Stay away from the primer/sealers used for problem areas. For painting,
reduce some of the original paint about 25 percent. Then apply the paint to the center of
the patched area, using the original application method, and work it away from the patch.
By "feathering" the touchup out from the patch, the difference in film build and
appearance should be minimized since you will be blending it into the surrounding areas.
If the repaired areas are still noticeable, you may have to paint the entire wall.

Q: What is the best method of touch-up?

A: To achieve acceptable touch-up results, it's important to apply touch-up by the same
method as the original application, if possible, to avoid having any difference in sheen or
texture. Be sure to use paint from the original batch, reduced 25 to 50 percent, and only
apply a thin coat. It's also best to apply the touch-up paint under similar temperature
and humidity conditions as the original.

Q: I'm going to be painting the interior of a 1200 square foot home. Can you list some
pros and cons of air sprayer vs. roll-on and brush painting?

A: A lot depends on whether the house is new or already occupied. If new, spray painting
is a much faster way to get the paint on the wall, especially if the trim isn't in place yet.
Everything that you have to move, mask, or cover (furniture, trim, doors, windows,
carpet) will slow the process down. You'll get a lot of "bounce-off" with an airless sprayer,
that usually falls to the floor. You will need to cover anything that you don't want paint to
fall on. Rolling, while usually slower, does not require as much covering and masking.
You can also have several people in the house rolling at the same time, which cuts your
total job time.

Q: What's the drying difference between alkyd and latex?

A: Latex paint dries to the touch in one hour and cleans up with water. Alkyd paint dries
to touch overnight and cleans up with solvent.

Q: What happens to paint that is applied during summer, when it is really hot and
humid?

A: Extremely high temperatures (over 100° F) could cause a paint film to dry before it
has had a chance to properly adhere to the surface. This can cause it to peel in the
future.
Q: With the days getting shorter in the fall and winter months, how late in the day can I
paint?

A: When painting with alkyd - or latex-based house paints, you should allow three to four
hours of drying time at recommended drying temperatures before dark. This will normally
be sufficient to prevent any problems caused by moisture getting on the paint film before
it has dried sufficiently.

Q: When staining interior softwoods, how can I get a uniform color and appearance?

A: The most popular method of providing a surface that will allow even absorption of
color into softwoods such as pine and poplar is to apply a coat of Minwax wood
conditioner. This will allow the wood to still absorb the stain, but more evenly than
without the conditioner. Another method is to apply the stain with a rag, rather than by
brush. You'll be able to control the amount of stain going onto the wood better and wipe
off the excess stain at the same time by this method.

Q: How can walls be "untexturized" and at what cost?

A: There are a couple of different options. One would be to have more material added on
top of the texture and then troweled to a smoother finish. This could add a lot of weight
and "could" cause some adhesion problems. The other choice is to have the texture
sanded smooth. That's a lot of dusty work. Whichever method you choose, make sure the
walls are properly primed before applying a topcoat so you get a uniform appearance.

Q: When texturing a ceiling, how much joint compound, water, and paint do you use
proportionately?

A: The ratio is one gallon of paint to a pail of joint compound. This ratio may vary
depending on the manufacturer of the joint compound.

Q: Why would a popcorn texture peel and fall off in sheets after a latex paint is
applied?

A: When latex is applied over a "popcorn" ceiling, the water in the paint can break down
the adhesive bond between the texture and the substrate, allowing the weight of the
texture to pull the material off the ceiling. Applying an alkyd primer before repainting
with latex will usually alleviate the problem.

Q: What happens to an acrylic latex paint if it is diluted with water? In what way would
this lessen the durability of the dry paint film?

A: When water is added to paint, the solid content of the system is diluted. As a result,
the diluted paint will not form as thick a dry film as the paint manufacturer intended.
Since film thickness is important to durability, these paints will perform poorer than
expected. Hiding can suffer, too.

Q: What is the advisability of mixing topcoat paint with primer in order to tint the
primer?
A: This technique is not recommended by paint manufacturers, and if done, can result in
coating failure. We suggest the Sherwin-Williams Color-Prime System for shading
primers.

Q: What can I add to a can of high-gloss latex paint to eliminate pinholing?

A: Just adding something to paint may or may not eliminate pinholing. If the cause of the
pinholing is that the paint drying too fast, then adding up to 1 pint of water per gallon
may help. Another cause of pinholing is excessive film build, which causes solvent pop.
The top layer of paint dries faster than the underside and this traps the solvents in the
paint. As the solvent attempts to escape from the coating, it first causes a small blister
and then the blister pops leaving a pinhole. By measuring wet film build with a wet film
gauge, you can determine if you are applying too much paint.

Q: What does reverse hang mean? What's the purpose of "working from two rolls?"

A: Reverse hanging is used primarily for textured, non-patterned wallcovering to

eliminate visible shading differences on the wall. If the first strip is hung as it comes off
the roll, the second strip would be rotated 180° and hung "upside down." The third strip
would be hung in the same direction as the first, then continue to rotate alternate strips.
Working from two rolls sometimes cuts down on waste when matching patterns and
allows you to pre-cut strips and match before pasting.

Q: After a wallpaper liner is installed, do you have to apply anything more before you
put on the paper?

A: If you are using prepasted paper, the answer is no. Just hang the paper following the
manufacturer's instructions. If you are using paper with no paste, then you need to use
an appropriate paste for the type of paper you are hanging.

Q: What is the recommended procedure for painting over vinyl wallcoverings?

A: It is best to remove vinyl wallcovering before painting. The exception would be the
textured wallcoverings on the market that are designed to be painted.

Q: Some painters mix their own solvents and cleaning solutions. Is this safe?

A: In general, it's best to leave such work to professional chemists. Although some
homemade formulas are effective and perfectly harmless, the possibility of danger is
always present whenever you mix chemicals - even ordinary household products. Many
everyday cleaners become toxic when combined with other products. For instance,
regular bleach diluted three-to-one with water makes an effective mildew remover.
However, mixing bleach with ammonia or any detergent containing ammonia can produce
deadly fumes akin to the mustard gas used in chemical warfare. Similarly, many
contractors concoct their own solution to etch concrete floors by diluting 1 gallon of
regular muriatic acid with 1 gallon of water. This practice is acceptable as long as the acid
is added to the water, not vice versa. If the water is poured into the acid, the likelihood
of splashing the highly corrosive acid is increased dramatically. In short, amateur
chemistry can be very dangerous and is not recommended. If you do use homemade
solutions of any kind, read the labels of all products thoroughly to identify possible
hazards and wear protective clothing, protective eyewear and a respirator. You can never
be too cautious when mixing chemicals.
PRODUCT SELECTION

Q: Which spray primers are acceptable for bare aluminum? I have heard that zinc
primers are fine for nonferrous metals, but the spray cans never say anything about
usage on aluminum. Can epoxy or acrylic be used without a primer?

A: Alkyd paints are "usually" not recommended for application direct to aluminum
because of possible saponification (a reaction between the fatty acids in the alkyd and the
aluminum salts when moisture is present). Since most aerosol spray enamels are alkyd
based, you have the potential for problems when you apply them to aluminum. An epoxy
ester or acrylic aerosol spray would be a better choice for painting small pieces of clean
aluminum.

Q: What is the best paint to use on handrails, material handling equipment and other
surfaces exposed to heavy wear-and-tear?

A: A two-component polyurethane coating will produce a hard, durable finish as well as

provide effective color and gloss retention in areas that must withstand a lot of physical
abuse. Over properly prepared and primed substrates, two-component polyurethanes
provide a tough, long-lasting finish.

Q: Can paint that has been frozen still be used?

A: It depends on the coating, you will need to open the container and observe the
coating. After gradually bringing frozen paint up to room temperature (70 degrees F),
open the can and stir it. If the paint looks like a fresh, never-been-frozen can of the same
product, it should be safe to use. When inspecting a thawed can of paint, be especially
wary of lumps, thickening or solid pieces that can't be broken. If any are present, the
paint should not be used. In general, it's best to prevent such problems by protecting
paint - especially water-based latex paints - from freezing temperatures.

Q: My customer wants a pickle wash finish on her cabinets. How do I create it?

A: For a conventional system, use Wood Classics Stain Pickled White and one of the
Wood Classics topcoats. A non-yellowing system would be a first coat of 10 parts White
Vinyl Sealer (P63W2) mixed with 2 parts Vinyl Sealer (T67F3). Topcoat with one or two
coats of Sher-Wood CAB Acrylic Lacquer. This system is designed for spray application.
All of these products are available at your Sherwin-Williams Store.

Q: I paint for customers who need the toughness of an epoxy, but they find the odor
too offensive. What should I use?

A: Your best option is to upgrade from a traditional latex or alkyd system to a water-
based catalyzed epoxy. It will offer many of the same characteristics as a solvent-based
epoxy, such as abrasion resistance, hardness, chemical resistance and scrubability,
without the strong and lingering odor. This is why water-based epoxies are often used in
schools, nursing homes, hospitals, kitchens and food plants. Water-based epoxies are
also highly compatible with other previous coatings, which eliminates the lifting problem
you could encounter with a solvent-based epoxy.

Q: What basic ingredient gives paint its hiding power?

A: Of the three main paint ingredients - pigments, solvents and binders - the pigment
provides hiding power and gives paint its color and shading. The solvents carry the paint
to the surface, then evaporate, leaving behind a film of paint; the binders are bonding
agents that hold the paint together.

Q: The VOC requirements I read about are expressed grams per liter, but I buy paint in
gallons. How do I know if I'm in compliance?

A: Simply divide the grams per liter amount by 120 to determine the pounds per gallon
figure. For instance, a product that has a VOC of 250 grams per liter would have 2.08
pounds per gallon, because 250/120 = 2.08. To convert from pounds per gallon to grams
per liter, multiply the number of pounds by 120.

Q: What is the best paint to use on a garage floor?

A: It depends on what kind of finish you want. A clear heavy-duty, high-performance

polyurethane will provide a durable, dust-free clear finish if the concrete has a uniform
appearance. If the concrete's finish is not uniform, or if you want a colored finish on the
floor, a two-part polyamide epoxy works best. Do not use latex or oil-based floor paint in
a garage because they can lift when they come in contact with car or truck tires. For best
results, allow the coating to cure at least 10 days before driving a vehicle on it.

Q: How can I upgrade a coating system from an alkyd to a urethane or epoxy without
completely removing the old finish?

A: In many cases, the application of a high-solids universal primer or barrier coat will
allow the application of a strong solvent-based epoxy or urethane over a previous
coating. Using a barrier coat reduces the likelihood of the solvents in the topcoat lifting
previous finishes and eliminates the need for costly and time-consuming removal of all
existing paint.

Q: What kind of paint works best on galvanized surfaces?

A: After allowing the galvanized surface to weather for six months or chemically cleaning
it to remove any oil or remnants of the galvanizing process, you can apply two coats of
an acrylic latex paint directly to the metal or a special galvanized metal primer topcoated
with an alkyd or latex product. Do not apply an alkyd directly to a galvanized metal
surface because the oils will react with the zinc used in the galvanizing process, causing
the alkyd to peel.

Q: Is latex paint susceptible to "lapping" when a gloss or color difference appears in

double-coated areas? What should be done to avoid this?

A: Lapping occurs when paint dries too quickly, causing noticeable gloss, color and hiding
differences where the paint overlapped during application. In the past, this was a
problem - particularly with latex paints on porous surfaces. However, with advancements
in rheology modifiers and thickeners, lapping has become less of a problem, especially
with top-quality latex paints that are more likely to contain these ingredients.

Q: What is so special about a zinc-rich primer?

A: Primers rich in zinc provide a tight, moisture-barrier film that protects steel from
corrosion by sacrificing itself rather than allowing the steel to rust. Zinc primers also self-
heal and resume protection of the steel if the coating is damaged.

Q: I have always recommended alkyd enamels for bathroom walls and ceilings. Now I
hear the preferred coating is an eg-shel latex or an acrylic because they let the walls
"breathe." Which do you recommend?

A: Alkyds traditionally have a tighter film and seal the surface better. They are, however,
more prone to mildew than latex paint. Traditional latex eg-shel and semi-gloss coatings
work well in a bathroom as long as there is good ventilation. If the walls are damp
because of poor ventilation, you may run into problems with surfactant leaching
(brownish stains on the paint) or peeling paint. I suggest you use Duration Home®. It
resists most household stains, and because of the tight film it forms, it is stain-resistant,
moisture-resistant and mildew-resistant too.

Q: How can I cover and paint over a water-stained but otherwise undamaged ceiling?

A: After you have corrected the cause of the water staining, use a primer sealer designed
for stain blocking, such as ProBlock Primer/Sealers. They are available in both alkyd and
latex-based versions. While both work to block this type of stain, the alkyd stain blocker
will usually seal water stains better because it doesn't contain water that could re-wet the
stain. You may still see the stain through the stain blocker, but they are designed to
"lock-in" the stain to prevent it from bleeding through into the topcoat.

Q: What makes a better paint? Do more expensive paints contain more durable
pigments and resins?

A: Yes they do. You hit on some key items that improve the quality of finish. The resins
along with the binders give you the quality of finish. Also, the way the product is
produced can impact the quality. Paint goes through a piece of machinery called a ball
mill. This grinds everything together. The size of the balls used and length of time it goes
through the mill impacts the fineness of the pigment grind, which impacts the quality of
the product.

Q: What chemical component of paint is responsible for the sheen level?

A: The resin is responsible for the sheen level (latex & alkyd).

Q: I see the term "Volume Solids" in most specifications. What does it mean, and why
is it so important?

A: Paint is made up of four basic elements: solvent, binder, pigment and additives. The
material left on a substrate after the solvent evaporates and the coating cures is its solids
content. When calculated as a percentage of the total gallon of paint, the solids are
referred to as "Volume Solids." A higher percentage of Volume Solids is usually an
indication of a better quality paint, because more binder and pigment are left to protect
the surface compared to a coating with a lower Volume Solids rating.

Q: Is it true that I won't be able to buy oil-based paints in the future?

A: A lot depends on the VOC limits the federal government sets when it implements a
national VOC regulation. Based on the latest information we have, you should be able to
use oil-based paints for some time. The oil-based products you'll use in years to come
will be different than the ones you use now. They'll contain more solids and less solvent,
and may apply and dry differently than current products.
In the meantime, you might want to try the new waterborne products that are being
developed. They apply, level, and dry to a hard film like an alkyd; but they're non-
yellowing, clean up with soap and water, and cause less odor.

Q: With all the talk about VOC emissions from solvents in paint, I'm confused. If latex
paint is water-based, how can it contain VOCs?

A: Traditional latex technology requires the use of co-solvents to get the latex particles to
melt together (coalesce). These small amounts of solvents, and some additives, make up
the VOC content in normal latex paints. New technology has been developed that allows
latex paint films to form without co-solvents. These new products perform similar to
traditional latex paints, but have minimal VOC levels and less odor.

Q: Why are certain trim colors, such as red, so tough to cover on the second coat?
Would it be best to apply some kind of primer and then an acrylic latex topcoat to
cover more easily? What other colors are tough to cover?

A: Difficulty in covering a previously painted surface relates not so much to the color of
the earlier paint, but to how dark it is. The recoat hiding problem is compounded when a
very light color (most noticeably yellow) is applied over a dark one. Multiple coats of
paint are often necessary in these cases. Using a primer as a first coat may help,
depending on the hiding of the primer and of the topcoat. Using a poor hiding primer may
be no better than using two topcoats. Also, using a gray shade of primer will help more
than tinting the primer color close to the existing shade.

Q: How do flat, satin and semi-gloss finishes differ in terms of appearance, durability
and washability?

A: Flat finishes hide imperfections in the surface. The higher the sheen the
better/smoother the surface has to be if you are concerned about the cosmetic
appearance of the wall. With advances in technology you can purchase flat finishes that
offer very good washable surfaces (Sherwin-Williams Duration Home) or scrubbable
(Sherwin-Williams Harmony), satin and semi gloss finishes are considered more
scrubbable than flat finishes.

Q: It seems that darker colored acrylic latex paint has a longer service life than lighter
colors. Can this be true?

A: Yes, it's possible. Even if all other factors are equal, this situation can occur if the
darker color is based solely on a durable oxide "earth" color, such as red iron oxide, and
the lighter color contains a portion of titanium dioxide (a white pigment), which
contributes to chalking.

Q: I've got some exterior latex house paint left over from last summer's jobs. Can I mix
it together to use for an interior primer or topcoat?
A: No. They will not perform properly inside. Exterior paints are made to be flexible and
withstand the weather, but not to take the physical abuse such as abrasion and scrubbing
that interior paints are subject to.

Q: What factors are most significant in determining paint quality? We are about to
paint a Victorian home and are looking for the highest quality exterior paint. Longevity
without shrinking, cracking or loss of luster are our primary concerns.

A: The main factors are the type and amount of resin (the binder that holds the paint
together), type and amount of pigment, volume solids and film thickness. A high quality
paint like Sherwin-Williams Duration, has enough volume solids for applying one coat at
2.8 mils dry film thickness. This is the longest lasting coating that Sherwin-Williams has
to paint the exterior of a home.

Q: If alkyd paint yellows with time and latex holds its color better, why do many
people still prefer alkyd for interior trim?

A: Alkyd paints use to be harder and more durable for interior trim work. With recent
advances in paint technology, even the most tradition-bound paint customers are
choosing the new latex coatings for interior trim work. Sherwin-Williams ProClassic
Waterborne interior semi-gloss offers many of the attributes of alkyds; good adhesion,
scrubbability, hardness, flow and leveling and without the yellowing or odor of an alkyd.

Q: Oil-based paints seem to become brittle after years of wear. Will acrylic latex paint
deteriorate like this?

A: No. The particles of acrylic latex paint fuse together to form a film that remains
flexible over the life of the paint. This film has the ability to expand and contract with the
surface, which helps give the paint superior durability. Oil-based paint forms its film
through constant chemical reaction over the life of the paint. This process causes these
paints to gradually become brittle, which can result in paint failures such as cracking and
flaking.

Q: I was discouraged to find mildew return after replacing caulk around a tub. I'm
about to remove the caulk again. Any suggestions on how to prevent this problem
from reoccurring?

A: Once you have removed the caulk, be sure to bleach the area underneath it
thoroughly. Use a solution of one part bleach and four parts water. This should kill the
mildew. If your problem is severe you may need to go to a stronger solution of bleach
and water.

Q: What is your most washable interior wall paint?

A: Sherwin-Williams Duration Home is our most washable interior wall paints. Simply put
"Stains don't stand a chance."

Q: Why is it so common that the deep colors (hunter greens, deep burgundies) never
touch up, even when using the same paint that was originally used just a few days or
weeks later?
A: Deep colors are naturally loaded with pigments that need to stay dispersed in the
paint during application. If the paint is not stirred frequently, you could be applying
different concentrations of colored pigments at different times during application. Then
when you go back to touch up with a freshly stirred bucket of paint, you could be putting
more or less pigment onto the wall, causing it to look different. When touching up painted
surfaces, it's a good idea to use the original can of paint and reduce it 15 to 25 percent.
This will prevent film buildup, which can also cause a difference in appearance. You
should apply the touch-up paint with the same type of applicator (brush, roller or spray)
you used to apply the original paint. This will prevent texture differences, which make the
touch-up areas more visible.

Q: What is the best primer to use when painting interior stained wood? I have to paint
over some dark stained trim.

A: Make sure the surface is clean, dry and dull first. Then we suggest using a traditional
alkyd wood primer, like ProBlock Alkyd Primer, for better coverage over the darker color.
Other stain killers/primer/sealers work great to seal stains, and dry quickly. These
primers usually don't have the pigment load needed to cover over a dark color like
ProBlock Alkyd Primer.

Q: Can you suggest a heavy-duty paint for painting the floor of an industrial building?
The current paint lasted only a few months.

A: We recommend our Heavy-Duty ArmorSeal Floor Coatings. Surface prep is important.

For best performance, remove the old coating using a shot blaster. This will remove the
old paint and give an excellent profile, which the new finish can adhere to. Apply the base
coat of primer, then topcoat, following the manufacturer's label instructions for mixing
and application.

Q: When I use satin varnishes, I occasionally end up with some satin areas and some
glossy areas. What causes this, and how do I prevent it?

A: Most satin varnishes are actually gloss varnishes with a flattening agent added to
reduce the gloss. The flattening agent is usually heavier than the varnish, so it drops to
the bottom of the can. You can see this by comparing a can of gloss and satin varnish.
The gloss varnish will be clear all the way to the bottom of the can, while the satin will
have clear material on top and cloudy material on the bottom. The cloudy material is the
flattening agent. Before using satin varnish, stir it thoroughly with a paint paddle to
suspend the flattening agent throughout the can. (Do not shake varnish, as air bubbles
that cause unsightly blemishes in the finish will form.) Stir the varnish frequently during
application to keep the flattening agent suspended. If you don't stir often enough, you'll
get some brush loads of varnish with the flattening agent and some without. This is what
causes a finish with uneven gloss.

SURFACE PREPARATION

Q: Why do I need to use a primer instead of just using two coats of the finish paint?

A: A primer is beneficial because it helps provide a uniform surface that promotes good
adhesion of the topcoat. A primer can also serve a special purpose by sealing a porous
surface, blocking out stains, preventing rust formation on iron and steel, and preventing
tannin bleed on wood. Most finish paints are designed to provide a decorative or
protective finish for a substrate. In most situations, they do not provide the features of a
primer, so it is always important to follow the manufacturer's recommended coating
system.

Q: What is hatbanding and what causes it?

A:Hatbanding is a phenomenon that appears as a stripe at the edges or top of a wall. It

occurs when the brushed "cut-in" area is dry when the wall is rolled. By not rolling onto a
wet edge, the difference in the texture of the brushed paint and rolled paint becomes
very visible. Hatbanding is corrected by applying another coat of paint, keeping a wet
edge of cut-in areas.

Q: I do a lot of restoration work in old houses that I know have lead-based paint on the
trim. What do you recommend for removing the paint and the lead hazard?

A: Nothing! Only trained and licensed lead removal contractors should handle lead
removal. You will find this warning on all our cans of paint: Warning! Removal of old paint
by sanding, scraping or other means may generate dust or fumes that contain lead.
Exposure to lead dust or fumes may cause brain damage or other adverse health effects,
especially in children or pregnant women. Controlling exposure to lead or other
hazardous substances requires the use of proper protective equipment, such as a
properly fitted respirator (NIOSH approved) and proper containment and cleanup. For
more information, call (in the U.S.) the National Lead Information Center at 1-800-424-
LEAD or contact your local health authority.

While the manufacturers of some chemical paint strippers recommend using their
products for removing lead-based paint, you still have to comply with lead removal and
hazardous waste disposal regulations. Be safe. Leave this work to specialists.

Q: What does saponification mean?

A. Saponification is the reaction of an alkaline surface, such as concrete or galvanizing,

with the oils in a coating. This reaction forms a soap-like material at the
coating/substrate interface and eventually causes the coating to peel.

Q: What causes fisheyes?

A: Fisheyes are caused by some type of surface contamination that was not removed in
preparation for painting. This contamination can be from body oils, silicone from furniture
polish, or any greasy or oil substance. The slippery deposit on the surface does not allow
the paint to adhere, causing it to shrink away from the contamination and form a dimple-
like void in the paint film.

Q: I see the term "Volume Solids" in most specifications. What does it mean, and why
is it so important?

A: Paint is made up of four basic elements: solvent, binder, pigment and additives. The
material left on a substrate after the solvent evaporates and the coating cures is its solids
content. When calculated as a percentage of the total gallon of paint, the solids are
referred to as "Volume Solids." A higher percentage of Volume Solids is usually an
indication of a better quality paint because more binder and pigment are left to protect
the surface compared to a coating with a lower Volume Solids rating.
Q: What types of cleaners can I use to remove mildew?

A: Try using a solution of one quart household beach in three quarts of water. Apply the
solution to the area with mildew and then rinse off with water. Never add detergents or
ammonia to the bleach/water solution. Always protect your skin and eyes against
splashes.

Q: What's the best way to remove stains on redwood and cedar?

A: First determine the source of moisture that brought the stain to the surface and
correct it. Next, remove the stain with a 50/50 solution of water and denatured alcohol.
Allow the surface to dry completely, then apply an alkyd primer and topcoat to prevent
stains from recurring.

Q: What effect does wiping vinegar on plaster walls have?

A: Wiping a mixture of one part vinegar and four parts water on a soft or powdery plaster
wall hardens the plaster so that it will accept a paint film. After the plaster dries, prime it
with PrepRite Masonry Primer or PrepRite Wall & Wood Primer and topcoat it with
Duration Home® or Super Paint.

Q: How do I remove insects from fresh paint?

A: If bugs land on the wet paint, let them stay until the paint dries. Once dry, remove
them with a clean paint brush. You might end up with small, unnoticeable "bug prints,"
but that's better than removing the bugs and trying to touch up partially dry paint. Using
a faster-drying exterior-latex paint, like Sherwin-Williams SuperPaint, is helpful in this
situation. Latex paint dries quicker than oil-based paints, giving insects less time to get
stuck in the coating.

Q: How do I determine when a concrete floor is ready to paint?

A: New concrete should cure for at least 30 days. Check for moisture by taping a 2'x2'
piece of 4-mil plastic to the floor with duct tape. If no darkening of the concrete or
condensation is evident after 24 hours, the floor is dry enough to paint. The floor should
be thoroughly cleaned and acid etched prior to application.

Q: What determines if a joint should be recaulked? Should old caulk always be

removed?

A: If the old caulk is cracking or pulling away from the surface, dig it out and replace it.
Prime the bare wood then re-caulk. Any butt joint in siding or other joints between two
pieces of wood should be caulked. You DO NOT want to caulk the lap joints of siding since
they allow moisture to get out from behind the wood.

Q: I need to paint a residential ceiling that has been stained from a previous water
leak. I would like to know the best approach to sealing the stain before applying flat
ceiling paint.

A:I suggest you take care of all the repair work first, then apply an alkyd primer-sealer,
such as ProBlock, to seal out the water stains.
Q: I removed wallpaper from a paneled wall, however a residue of wallpaper paste
remains. I want to leave the paneling as is - no paint or wallpaper over it. How do I
remove the paste residue without harming the paneling?

A:Use a paste remover or vinegar and water.

Q: How can I cover and paint over a water-stained but otherwise undamaged ceiling?

A: After you have corrected the cause of the water staining, use a primer sealer designed
for stain blocking, such as ProBlock Primer/Sealers. They are available in both alkyd and
latex-based versions. While both work to block this type of stain, the alkyd stain blocker
will usually seal water stains better because it doesn't contain water that could re-wet the
stain. You may still see the stain through the stain blocker, but they are designed to
"lock-in" the stain to prevent it from bleeding through into the topcoat.

Q: For interior doors and trim with glossy finishes, can I use a primer instead of
sanding or scuffing the surface?

A: You want to use Adhesion Primer. You will still need to wash and clean the surface
first.

Q: Can I apply latex paint over a surface finished with an oil-based product?

A: Yes you can. You have two choices to do this. First would be to wash the surface, sand
and then clean the sanding dust off. You may then apply your latex paint over the oil
base paint. That process works for both interior and exterior applications. Your other
option is to wash the surface and then apply a coat of adhesion primer and then topcoat.

Q: Can acrylic latex house paint be applied over gloss alkyd paint? Is special prep
work necessary to ensure good adhesion?

A: Yes, to both questions. But, to ensure good adhesion, glossy surfaces must first be
washed clean and then sanded to allow the paint to "grip" the surface. Gloss alkyd paints
that are exposed to harsh weather conditions have a tendency to "chalk" - that is, the old
paint film develops a faded, powdery substance on the surface. So it's best to wash off
any excessive chalk prior to applying an acrylic topcoat. When painting bare surfaces, use
an appropriate primer before applying the topcoat. This will ensure the best adhesion and
long-term durability.

Q: What is the most efficient method for tackling calcimine painted surfaces like
ceilings?

A: Since calcimine paints contain little or no binder, they tend to be very chalky. Clean
the surface with a household cleaner to remove as much chalk as possible. Rinse
thoroughly. Then apply a primer that secures adhesion on chalky surfaces, such as
LOXON Conditioner. Follow with two coats of the topcoat of your choice.

TROUBLESHOOTING

Q: Can mildew be permanently prevented?

A: No. Paints can be formulated to inhibit mildew growth, but under some conditions,
mildew eventually will reappear on any type of paint.

Q: I have a poor track record of success in painting galvanized substrates. What am I

doing wrong?

A: Painting galvanized steel, like many other metal substrates, has its own set of "do's
and don'ts" for ensuring a long-lasting paint job. Galvanized metal comes from the
factory with a thin layer of oil to prevent white rust. Painting over this oil usually results
in paint failure. Alkyd paints applied to galvanized metal produce an acceptable paint film
initially, but will quickly fail. And when galvanized metal is allowed to remain exposed to
the atmosphere, it will oxidize, producing a poor surface for coating adhesion.

Q: Sometimes paint doesn't adhere to Southern yellow pine. Why?

A: Southern yellow pine has a tendency to contract and expand with weather conditions.
In contrast, cedar and redwood are more stable lumbers, so paint coatings adhere to
them better.

Q: What usually causes a coating to fail?

A: The most frequent causes for premature paint failure are as follows: insufficient
surface preparation; low film build; improper coating was used; product not applied as
directed; or environmental conditions (moisture, fumes, chemicals, etc.).

Q: Why do doors painted with latex paint sometimes stick to the weather-stripping?

A: Latex paints contain chemicals called plasticizers that allow proper film formation and
keep the coating flexible. Many vinyl and plastic weather-stripping materials also contain
plasticizers to give them flexibility. When two surfaces containing plasticizers come in
contact with each other, they can have the tendency to stick. This condition, known as
blocking, will generally occur during the early curing time of the coating, but it can
continue for some time. Blocking can also occur on double-hung windows and garage
doors. The easiest way to prevent blocking is to use a non-blocking acrylic, or alkyd base
paint in areas where it may occur.

Q: What causes white powdery deposits on masonry surfaces, and how can I fix
them?

A: The deposits, known as efflorescence, are caused by moisture in the masonry. The
moisture dissolves salts in the masonry -- the mortar, block, concrete, etc. -- and is
drawn to the surface by the heat of the sun. The water evaporates, leaving behind white
deposits that must be removed before painting. After you find and fix the source of the
moisture, remove the efflorescence with a wire brush and coat the surface with a
masonry primer and topcoat.

Q: Within a week after painting a bathroom, yellowish-brown stains began appearing

on the wall. For surface prep, we washed the walls with TSP and allowed them to dry
for two days. We then primed with an oil-based product and added a high-quality
semi-gloss latex top coat. The paint was allowed to dry for three days before anyone
used the shower. What could be the problem?
A: The condition you describe sounds like an occurrence called surfactant leaching.
Surfactants are surface leveling agents added to latex paints to improve its flow and
leveling qualities. Under conditions of high humidity - in bathrooms, for instance - these
surfactants can sometimes leach out of the uncured paint film. The resulting deposit
usually looks like someone shook up a can of cola and sprayed it on the wall. Since these
surfactants are water soluble, they can be removed by cleaning with a sponge and warm
water. To prevent this from occurring again:- Allow more time for the paint to cure, with
good ventilation, before exposing it to heavy moisture condensation.- Install and/or use
an exhaust fan, vented to the outdoors, to prevent excessive moisture build-up. This will
also lessen the possibility of mildew growth.

Q: What causes small cracks to form on a recently painted wall?

A: This problem is commonly called "alligatoring." The most common cause of alligatoring
is the application of too thick of a paint film. The surface of the film dries first, with the
rest of the film taking longer to dry than normal. When the underside of the paint finally
does dry, it shrinks, causing the top of the film to pull apart and leaving unsightly cracks.
You can prevent this by applying the paint at the manufacturer's recommended thickness
and spreading rate. A less frequent cause of alligatoring results from painting over a
contaminant on the surface such as oil, silicone, body oils, hair spray, etc. You can
prevent this by thoroughly cleaning the surface before painting.

Q: What causes frosting? How can it be avoided? What is the proper way to remedy
it?

A: Frosting is a phenomenon caused when latex paint is applied in or is subjected to

conditions that are too cold and/or too damp during the initial curing process. The lower
temperatures and/or dampness do not allow the paint to coalesce, or form a proper film,
which then exposes ingredients in the paint film to the elements. The ingredients that
cause frosting are water-soluble sodium and calcium compounds. These are added to the
paint to improve surface wetting, flow and leveling, and tint acceptance. When the paint
film does not coalesce properly, these materials can rise to the surface, where they are
exposed to moisture, usually combined with cool temperatures. When the moisture
evaporates, a white "frosty" deposit is left on the surface. Frosting can usually be
removed by flooding the surface with warm water. High-pressure washing is not
necessary; just a lot of water to dissolve the material and flush it off the surface. To
prevent frosting, always follow the manufacturers' application recommendations, but
especially during the spring and fall when temperatures can drop drastically within the
first 24-48 hours of applying paint.

Q: Why after one year am I getting discoloration on some areas of preprimed finger
jointed wood-work coated with a latex semi-gloss?

A: The most likely cause of the discoloration is the resin in the glue used to hold the
wood together. An alkyd primer applied to the wood before the latex semi-gloss will
usually lock this in, but sometimes you need to resort to an alkyd stain killer, or even a
pigmented shellac stain killer in severe cases.

Q: After a wallpaper liner is installed, do you have to apply anything more before you
put on the paper?
A: If you are using prepasted paper, the answer is no. Just hang the paper following the
manufacturer's instructions. If you are using paper with no paste, then you need to use
an appropriate paste for the type of paper you are hanging.

Q: What is the procedure to remove wallcovering if the drywall was not primed before
the initial installation? How do you prevent drywall from coming off?

A: This is a difficult problem that takes a great deal of patience and determination. You
can reduce the damage by not over-soaking the wallcovering with the removal solution.
After you remove the wallcovering, wash any remaining paste from the wall and patch
any badly damaged areas, then apply a coat of high build primer-surfacer. This will
uniform the surface much like a skim coat of plaster, but is a lot easier and less
expensive.

Q: I paint the trim with a white alkyd semi-gloss, then come back a few days later and
spray the walls with latex. Often, the white trim changed to a light cream color a few
days after painting the walls. What's causing the problem?

A: This phenomenon is caused by a reaction between the additives in the latex that keep
it from spoiling in the can with the drying oils in the alkyd. The yellowing cannot be
removed, so you'll need to scuff sand and repaint. You can recoat with an alkyd after the
latex is cured or use a top-quality latex semi-gloss. To prevent this problem in the future,
apply the latex before the alkyd, or switch to latex semi-gloss for the trim.

EXTERIOR FAQs
PRODUCT APPLICATION

Q: I have heard that painting outside in the fall and spring is not a good idea because
of the dampness in the air. I plan on using latex paint. How late or early in the season
can I paint and still have long-lasting results? I live in the Midwest.

A:If you need to paint outside with latex paint when temperatures are moving up and
down like a yo-yo, I suggest you use one of the latex like Duration, Resilience, or
SuperPaint. These products can be applied and will cure at lower temperatures, as low as
35° F. Traditional latex-based paints need temperatures above 60° F to cure properly.
Warmer temperatures are needed to allow the latex particles to coalesce, or melt
together. That is why the spring and fall can be tricky times to paint outside. A common
mistake is to paint when the daytime high temperature gets above 60° F and the
nighttime temperatures get much cooler because dew forms on almost everything as
soon as the sun goes down. Even though the temperature was OK at the time of
application, the paint can stop coalescing. This permits moisture to get into the uncured
paint film allowing certain ingredients to come to the surface when the moisture
evaporates, causing surface staining and possible adhesion problems.

Q: When painting outside, how long does the temperature need to stay in the
suggested range? Some people say it's okay to paint all day, even if the temperature
is above the minimum recommendation for only an hour or so.

A:Ideally, the temperature should be in the suggested range and above the dew point for
at least 48 hours after application. Colder temperatures and moisture on the surface will
not allow a paint film to form properly. This will shorten the life expectancy of the paint
and could cause surfactant leaching, mildew growth, frosting, and adhesion problems.
When the forecasters predict changing temperatures that may drop below the normal
recommendation of 50° F for latex paint, consider using a house paint that can be applied
and will cure at temperatures as low as 35° F. This will give you the opportunity to
extend your painting season by as much as two months in most areas of the country.

Q: Is it better to brush or airless spray the exterior finish on smooth hardboard

siding? What would be the longest lasting paint?

A:Spraying is faster. Brushing is neater. Many painters use a combination of the two
methods by spraying to quickly get paint on the surface, followed by back brushing to
spread the paint out evenly, resulting in a good looking finish.
It may depend on how wide the surface is that you're painting as well. If you're painting
big surfaces, cut in with a brush and roll the rest of the panel. For most siding areas, if
you can't spray and backbrush, stick with a brush. Most siding areas are not wide enough
to use a roller, so a good 4" brush that holds a lot of paint will work much better.

Q: What is sweat-in or induction time?

A:These terms refer to the waiting period required between the time you mix and the
time you can start applying a two-part product, such as an epoxy. This allows the
necessary chemical reactions between the two parts to begin so the coating will cure and
perform properly.

Q: When daytime and nighttime temperatures differ significantly, should I be

concerned about when to stop painting?

A:Yes. You want to follow the label directions for the product you are using. Most
products require at least 4 hours of dry time before moisture can settle on the surface.
The cooler the temperature the sooner you should stop painting.

Q: What is the optimal temperature to paint outside?

A:Until a few years ago you needed to paint above 50° F. Sherwin-Williams now has
products like Duration, Resilience, SuperPaint and A-100 Exterior that will allow you to
paint down to 35° F.

Q: What is the best method of applying an elastomeric?

A: Rolling is usually the best method. Consult the Product Datasheet for specifications
and recommendations on this. If applying by airless, you should use .021 to .031 tips
because this is a fairly heavy-bodied material. When working with a low-texture material,
the spray unit must be specifically designed for aggregate coatings. Generally, you can
spray on 20 to 30 wet mils by cross coating (a horizontal coating pattern followed by a
vertical coating pattern). When rolling, almost invariably a minimum of two coats will be
needed to achieve the acquired film thickness. When applying over flat surfaces like
poured-in-place concrete, simple spraying works well. When applying over rough surfaces
like stucco, spraying would have to be followed by backrolling. Backrolling involves an
additional pass with a wet, but not loaded roller, that will force the material into contact
with all dips and holes in the surface.
Q: What about the problem of roller-tracking when applying elastomeric coatings?
How can this be avoided?

A:Because this material goes on with a heavy film thickness, there is a tendency to roller-
track. To avoid the problem, the painter should "dress down" when rolling. In other
words, before redipping, always finish rolling with a downward roll. This will give the
same repeat pattern throughout the job.

Q: Which produces the better, longer lasting paint job on aluminum siding, spraying
or brushing?

A:The key thing to consider when repainting aluminum siding is not the method of
application, but the surface prep. Aluminum siding is normally painted only after it has
faded and chalked. If the chalkiness is not removed, the paint will not adhere properly.
Spraying will be much quicker than brushing, and as long as the proper tip size and
pressure are used, it will produce excellent results. Duration, Resilience, or SuperPaint
Exterior Acrylic, applied to a properly prepared surface will produce a quality long lasting
finish.

Q: How can I avoid overlap marks when I'm painting?

A: Try not to paint too large of an area at one time. Overlapping occurs when a freshly
painted section begins to dry before you start painting the adjoining area.

Q: What is the best method of touch-up?

A:To achieve acceptable touch-up results, it's important to apply touch-up by the same
method as the original application, if possible, to avoid having any difference in sheen or
texture. Be sure to use paint from the original batch, reduced 25 to 50 percent, and only
apply a thin coat. It's also best to apply the touch-up paint under similar temperature
and humidity conditions as the original.

Q: When using an oil-based product, how much time is needed for the product to set
up sufficiently to withstand rain or precipitation?

A:A minimum of eight hours is recommended when the temperature is above 70° F. The
cooler the temperature the longer the wait.

Q: What happens to paint that is applied during summer, when it is really hot and
humid?

A:Extremely high temperatures (over 100° F) could cause a paint film to dry before it has
had a chance to properly adhere to the surface. This can cause it to peel in the future.

Q: What is the best time of year to stain exterior surfaces?

A:Whenever it's dry and warm. Although 70° F is the ideal temperature for exterior
staining, the "safe range" spans from 50° F to 90° F. Avoid staining when humidity is
high or the day after a rainstorm, and never stain in direct sunlight. As always, check the
label for product-specific directions.
Q: How long after it rains should I wait to paint?

A:That really depends on how wet the surface gets. A masonry or wood surface will
absorb more moisture from a soaking rain than will aluminum or vinyl siding. I would
wait a MINIMUM of one day after a heavy rain, but remember the surface must be dry
before painting. Too much moisture in the substrate will prevent absorption and will most
likely lead to peeling.

Q: How late into fall can I paint house exteriors with latex paint and give customers
long-lasting results?

A:Fall can be a tricky time to paint outside. A common mistake is to paint when daytime
temperatures rise above 50° F and nighttime temperatures drop below 35° F. Even
though the temperature may be acceptable at the time of application, the paint can stop
coalescing, or melting together, when the temperature drops. Additionally, dew will form
on almost everything as soon as the sun sets, and seep into the uncured paint. When the
moisture evaporates, certain ingredients rise to the surface causing surface staining and
possible adhesion problems. My best advice is to use a paint made for painting at 35° F
and above, like Duration, Resilience, Super Paint or A-100 Exterior products.

Q: What is the advisability of mixing topcoat paint with primer in order to tint the
primer?

A:This technique is not recommended by paint manufacturers, and if done, can result in
coating failure. We suggest the Sherwin-Williams Color-Prime System for shading
primers.

Q: Every fall, I switch to oil-based paint for my exterior jobs since I can use it at lower
temperatures than latex. Sometimes, though, I find the oil paint hard to work with early
in the morning. Why?

A:There are a couple possible causes. It could simply be too cold to be painting outside in
the morning. The temperature may not be high enough to allow the paint to flow and
cure properly. Or, if you store the oil paint outside or in your truck, it is exposed to colder
temperatures during the night that cause it to thicken, just like the motor oil in your
truck. To avoid problems, be sure to follow the manufacturer's label direction for
recommended application temperatures; and remember that they refer to air, surface,
and material temperatures. It's also a good idea to store your oil-based paint inside or
allow it plenty of time to warm up before you begin work in the morning.

Q: Is it always bad to paint in direct sunlight?

A:It's best to avoid painting in direct sunlight, especially during the hot summer months.
The heat from the sun's rays cause the paint to dry to quickly, which can cause a number
of problems - brush marks, lap marks, inadequate adhesion. Move around the house to
avoid the sun as much as possible.

Q: In cold weather, why will dark colors turn white or frosted looking?

A:When latex paint is applied in temperatures below the manufacturer's recommendation

or when the paint is exposed to low temperatures and/or high humidity too soon in its
curing process, it doesn't form a proper film. To get rid of the "frosting," rinse the surface
thoroughly with warm water. A garden hose works best because you need a lot of water,
not a lot of pressure.

Q: Why would a popcorn texture peel and fall off in sheets after a latex paint is
applied?

A:When latex is applied over a "popcorn" ceiling, the water in the paint can break down
the adhesive bond between the texture and the substrate, allowing the weight of the
texture to pull the material off the ceiling. Applying an alkyd primer before repainting
with latex will usually alleviate the problem.

Q: Mixing instructions for two-part epoxies and urethanes mention a potlife of so

many hours. Does this mean the paint turns solid in that amount of time?

A:In some high-solids materials, the liquid will become solid at the end of the potlife. In
most cases, though, the potlife refers to the amount of time you have to apply the
coating before it gets to a critical point in the chemical reaction between the two parts.
After the potlife period expires, the material will become difficult to apply and the
adhesion, cure, and performance of the coating will be adversely affected. When working
with these types of products, it's best to mix only what you can use within the potlife
listed by the manufacturer.

Q: There seems to be a lot of discussion about the best method to paint the exterior of
a house. Some say use a brush, some claim it is best to spray on the paint and then
back-brush it, and others say just using an airless sprayer is best. What do you think?

A:Painting with an airless will usually get more paint on the surface than with a brush. If
applied properly - keeping the gun 12" away from the surface at a 90° angle and
applying the recommended mil thickness of paint - airless spraying is the most efficient
way to paint most large exterior surfaces. Brushing, while you are able to work the paint
into the surface, takes considerably longer. For windows and intricate trim work, you
almost have to brush the paint on the surface.

Q: What is the best way to paint the exterior of a house? Spraying would seem fastest.
I have a compressor, should I buy a spray gun or airless equipment? What about back
brushing or rolling, should this be done also?

A:Spraying is faster. Brushing is neater. Many painters use a combination of the two
methods by spraying to quickly get paint on the surface, followed by back brushing to
spread the paint out evenly, resulting in a good looking finish.

Q: What is the best tool for painting standard wood house exteriors? Should I use a
brush or roller? Or perhaps a combination?

A:It really depends on how wide the surface is that you're painting. If you're painting big
surfaces like plywood siding, cut in with a brush and roll the rest of the panel. For most
siding areas, if you can't spray and backbrush, stick with a brush. Most siding areas are
not wide enough to use a roller, so a good 4" brush that holds a lot of paint will work
much better.

PRODUCT SELECTION
Q: Is acrylic latex paint a good product for rough-sawn exterior grade plywood siding?
Should the plywood siding be treated with a preservative before applying the primer
and then topcoat?

A:Quality acrylic latex paint is an excellent choice for painting rough-sawn exterior
plywood siding. Preservative treatment of the wood before painting is not necessary if
proper construction practices are followed when installing the siding. There should be no
contact of the bottom edge of the siding with soil or other surfaces where water can
puddle.

Q: I am painting a 5-year old unpainted stucco house with some minor cracking. Is it
better to patch the cracks and use acrylic latex paint or use an elastomeric type paint?
If I use an elastomeric, is it re-paintable in the future using latex?

A:As for leaving the stucco unfinished, only the manufacturer of the material can tell you
what effect a winter's weathering would have on it. Loxon Exterior Acrylic Masonry Primer
is the correct primer for new stucco. It cannot be used below 50° F. A-100 is a topcoat
that is meant to be applied down to 35°F, yet not meant to be applied to fresh, hot,
masonry surfaces.

Q: What is the best type of paint to use on shutters?

A. Gloss paints are best for paintable shutters and trim because they accentuate
architectural details and their finish tends to be hard and smooth.

Q: What is the best kind of paint to use on factory-primed hardboard siding?

A:Hardboard siding is manufactured by pressing a mixture of wood chips, binder and wax
into shape and embossing with a wood grain pattern. Most of this siding is then factory-
primed before shipment. To provide proper adhesion and to prevent wax staining, we
recommend applying a quality alkyd-based primer before topcoating, whether the siding
is preprimed or not. Once the alkyd primer has been applied, you can use either an
acrylic latex or alkyd topcoat, depending on the customer's personal preference.

Q: I have an old, rusty tin roof to paint. What do you recommend?

A:First, determine that the roof is indeed tin, and not galvanized steel. If it is tin, clean
and rinse the surface to remove any dirt, mildew or surface contaminants. After the roof
is dry, apply a slow-drying, rust-inhibitive oil-based primer followed by two coats of a
quality topcoat. Industrial-grade acrylics, slower-drying alkyds and aluminum paints can
all be used for the finish coats. If the roof is galvanized, make sure it is clean, dry, and
sound and then apply a primer like DTM Primer/Finish, following with two coats of DTM
Acrylic Finish. Use a conventional roof coating material if the roof is flat.

Q: A customer wants me to repaint her off-white vinyl siding brown: but other painters
have told me to stay away from dark colors on vinyl. Why?

A. Vinyl siding is a very flexible material that expands and contracts horizontally with
temperature changes. In fact, when it is installed, the nails are not hammered all the way
into the sheathing to allow for such movement. Since dark colors absorb more heat than
light colors, painting the siding brown could cause it to flex so much that it could come
unfastened or, in severe cases, even cause structural damage to the house. A good rule
of thumb is to avoid using a paint color any darker than the original color of the siding
unless the coating is specifically designed for such use Like Sherwin-Williams VinylSafe
Technology.

Q: When painting exterior wood, some people recommend caulk to keep moisture out
of the wood; others say you should leave gaps to allow the house to breathe. Which is
right?

A:Both ideas are correct. Since moisture is the culprit in many cases of exterior peeling,
it's important to use a good quality, acrylic caulk to fill gaps around windows and doors,
joints in siding and trim boards, and anywhere moisture could get into the end-grain
wood. However, you also need to make sure that moisture generated inside the house
has a way to escape. The best way to "allow a house to breathe" is gable, roof, and eave
vents. If you are correcting an existing moisture-related peeling problem, you may also
need to install siding wedges or vents to give the moisture an easier path of escape than
through the paint film. Caulking where the siding overlaps is not advisable, as it could
trap moisture behind the paint, causing it to peel.

Q: How can I upgrade a coating system from an alkyd to a urethane or epoxy without
completely removing the old finish?

A:In many cases, the application of a high-solids universal primer or barrier coat will
allow the application of a strong solvent-based epoxy or urethane over a previous
coating. Using a barrier coat reduces the likelihood of the solvents in the topcoat lifting
previous finishes and eliminates the need for costly and time-consuming removal of all
existing paint.

Q: I need to paint a new concrete deck around an in-ground swimming pool. What can
I use that will not be affected by the water and chemicals?

A:Stay away from conventional floor coatings such as epoxies and alkyd floor enamels.
While an epoxy would withstand the exposure to the pool water, both of these types of
paints would be far too slippery to use around a pool. Since the concrete is new, an
acrylic concrete coating like Sher-Crete Flexible Concrete Waterproofer would be your
best choice.

Q: What kind of paint works best on galvanized surfaces?

A:After allowing the galvanized surface to weather for six months or chemically cleaning
it to remove any oil or remnants of the galvanizing process, you can apply two coats of
an acrylic latex paint directly to the metal or a special galvanized metal primer topcoated
with an alkyd or latex product. Do not apply an alkyd directly to a galvanized metal
surface because the oils will react with the zinc used in the galvanizing process, causing
the alkyd to peel.

Q: My house is 35 years old and has aluminum siding that was painted once by the
previous owner. It is now starting to peel. I am planning to paint the soffits, which are
wood, and the gutters, which are aluminum. Can you offer advice?

A:The first thing I recommend is a good pressure washing of the entire home. This will
help remove contaminants that could affect adhesion of the new paint and should also
remove any peeling paint from the aluminum siding. I also recommend you have
someone at your local Sherwin-Williams Paint store look at the peeling paint to determine
what caused it to peel so you can correct the problem. Assuming that none of the wood
soffits or aluminum gutters are peeling, you shouldn't need a primer. Primers are usually
necessary only when you are painting a bare substrate. Make sure that any glossy areas
are sanded to remove the gloss. Remove any old, cracked caulking and replace with new
acrylic latex caulk. The longest lasting paint for exterior use is Duration Exterior Coating.
Duration is available in a variety of sheens -- flat, satin and gloss. As for application
method, it's up to you. If you have the equipment to spray, it's certainly the quickest way
to get the job done. Rolling would be difficult on the aluminum siding. Brushing is
acceptable, but very time consuming.

Q: I have a contract to paint the exterior of an apartment complex with rough, vertical
grooved plywood siding. Most of the previous solid color stain is worn away. What
should I use for the longest lasting job?

A:Alkyd paints are "usually" not recommended for application direct to aluminum because
of possible saponification (a reaction between the fatty acids in the alkyd and the
aluminum salts when moisture is present). Since most aerosol spray enamels are alkyd
based, you have the potential for problems when you apply them to aluminum. An epoxy
ester or acrylic aerosol spray would be a better choice for painting small pieces of clean
aluminum.

Q: What is better on exterior rough sawn plywood siding: stain or paint; latex or oil?

A:Since plywood is made up of many layers of wood that expand and contract, coatings
applied to it are prone to cracking and checking. Stain is an ideal coating for rough sawn
siding since it is designed to provide a natural, rustic appearance. Use either an alkyd
semi-transparent or an alkyd or latex solid color stain. If a less-natural finish is desired,
an acrylic latex primer followed by an acrylic latex topcoat can also be used. These types
of paint will protect the wood from the elements and be resistant to cracking and
checking. Avoid using an alkyd primer and topcoat system, as it could lead to early paint
failure and possible damage to the siding from moisture and sunlight.

Q: What type of caulk should I use to fill cracks in my stained cedar siding before re-
staining?

A:If you're using a semi-transparent stain, find a stain and an acrylic latex caulk that
match, re-stain then caulk. Semi-transparent stain doesn't do a good job over caulk. If
you're using a solid color stain, caulk with the same acrylic latex caulk, then stain. A clear
caulk will also work.

Q: What colors are least likely to fade when used outside?

A:First of all, realize that all exterior paints will eventually lose some of their color
integrity. However, the rate of color loss will vary from color to color and paint to paint.
Organic colors (blues and greens) will tend to fade more quickly than inorganic colors
(brown and yellow iron oxides). Also, high-quality acrylic latex house paints will retain
their color better than solvent-based paints. In general, higher quality exterior latex
house paints will resist fading better than lower-cost latex house paints. Remember,
interior paints are not designed to hold up in exterior applications. Fade resistance is one
of the most noticeable benefits of exterior formulated paints.
Q: Many homeowners want their doors, windows and shutters covered with a semi-
gloss latex paint because they believe it will wear better than a flat latex. Is semi-gloss
more resistant to abrasion and wear than a flat latex?

A:Semi-gloss latex paints contain more binder than flat paints, so they do tend to be
more durable. In general, the greater the volume of latex binder in a paint, the better its
toughness, adhesion and color retention. Semi-gloss paints are also more stain resistant
than flat paints, so they'll pick up less dirt and tend to wear better than flat latex paints.

Q: Why is it so common that the deep colors (hunter greens, deep burgundies) never
touch up, even when using the same paint that was originally used just a few days or
weeks later?

A:Deep colors are naturally loaded with pigments that need to stay dispersed in the paint
during application. If the paint is not stirred frequently, you could be applying different
concentrations of colored pigments at different times during application. Then when you
go back to touch up with a freshly stirred bucket of paint, you could be putting more or
less pigment onto the wall, causing it to look different. When touching up painted
surfaces, it's a good idea to use the original can of paint and reduce it 15 to 25 percent.
This will prevent film buildup, which can also cause a difference in appearance. You
should apply the touch-up paint with the same type of applicator (brush, roller or spray)
you used to apply the original paint. This will prevent texture differences, which make the
touch-up areas more visible.

Q: Will acrylic latex house paint stand up to a harsh seashore environment where
there is high humidity, wind-driven rain and salt? Or must an oil-based paint be used?

A:Acrylic latex paints have demonstrated outstanding durability in the most rugged
environments including direct sunshine, moisture from rain and snow, and at the
seashore. Due to the superior adhesion of acrylic latex paints, they don't tend to blister,
crack or flake when exposed to rain or high humidity. Remember that the most important
part of repainting is surface preparation. While priming is usually not necessary for some
repaint surfaces when using an acrylic latex paint, it's a good idea to prime any bare
wood. For the best performance in the seashore environment you describe, it's advisable
to carefully wash away any salt deposits found on the surface to be painted along with
any "chalk."

Q: Is it advisable to apply an exterior alkyd over an existing latex?

A:No, it isn't. The alkyd layer will get hard and brittle as it ages, but the latex underneath
will remain flexible. As time passes, the latex layer will flex and move with the expansion
and contraction of the substrate more than the alkyd topcoat will. This will compromise
the adhesion of the alkyd to the underlying latex and cause the alkyd topcoat to peel.

Q: Does bleach really kill mildew on a wood deck?

A:Chlorine bleach (sodium hypochlorite), when mixed in proper proportions, removes

mildew stains and kills the living mildew spore growth on the wood surface. However, it
will not kill mildew deep in the wood. Mildew needs nutrients to live. A bare, unprotected
wood surface provides a lot of food for the spores to thrive on. The same is true for deck
stains that contain linseed oil. Once the deck is bleached and pressure washed, make
sure the wood is thoroughly dry before staining. Use mildew-resistant clear finishes,
semitransparent and solid color stains, like those from the DeckScapes line designed
specifically for decks.

Q: What's the best way to paint exterior brick? What techniques will give it a unique
finish or texture?

A:First, let new brick weather a year before painting. This allows any ores in the brick a
chance to leach out. It's a good idea to pressure wash the brick before painting to get rid
of any powdery mortar or deposits on the brick. Allow the brick to dry several days
before painting. If the brick has a glaze on it, and it doesn't absorb water, you'll need to
abrade the brick in some way to open it up so the primer will absorb into it. Make sure
the brick is clean before priming. We suggest priming with Loxon Exterior Masonry Primer
or Loxon Masonry Conditioner. After priming, topcoat with two coats of a 100% acrylic
paint, such as Super Paint. You can add some texture by using an exterior sand finish
texture paint or an exterior stucco finish paint as your finish coat.

Q: I have a house with masonite siding that hasn't been painted in several years. In
places the paint is in really bad shape. What is the best way to remove the old paint?
Do you recommend a quick-drying primer/sealer for priming damaged masonite
siding?

A:The best way to remove the old paint is by scraping and sanding to bare wood. Be
careful not to be too aggressive or you'll damage the siding. If the siding has
deteriorated, or is "swelling" due to water absorption, it should be replaced. I recommend
an exterior grade alkyd primer followed by two coats of acrylic latex house paint. The
alkyd primer is best because it seals better on the lower edge of the siding, which helps
prevent edge swell, a common problem on hardboard siding.

Q: Do acrylic latex primers and topcoats "breathe" to allow moisture vapor to pass
through? Does this breathability diminish when a second topcoating and subsequent
repainting is done?

A:Studies have shown 50 gallons of water is vaporized into the air of an average home
each day from cooking, bathing, laundry and people. Much of this moisture passes
through the walls. If the exterior coating traps moisture, blistering and peeling will occur.
Moisture vapor is more likely to pass through acrylic latex paint films than through
solvent alkyd types. It's true that application of additional coatings will reduce moisture
vapor transmission, simply on the basis of increased film thickness. However, even with
several coats applied, the latex film will be adequately permeable to water vapor and
better than alkyd paint films of comparable thickness.

Q: Why should I use a 100% acrylic house paint instead of a less expensive vinyl
acrylic?

A:The benefits of using a 100% acrylic versus a vinyl acrylic or alkyd modified exterior
latex are improved adhesion and better gloss retention, and fade- and mildew-resistance.
As a result of this improved durability, you don't need to repaint as frequently. You may
pay a few dollars more per gallon for a 100% acrylic paint, but when you factor in the
extra years of service your customers get from the paint job, it actually costs them less
and saves you time on expensive call-backs.

SURFACE PREPARATION
Q: Should I caulk the lap joints on my siding? I have heard that uncaulked lap seams
allow moisture to escape.

It is not a good idea to caulk the lap on your siding. To do so could trap moisture from
inside the home behind the siding, causing it to come out through the paint, resulting in
peeling.

Q: I occasionally paint buildings where non-galvanized iron nails were used in siding
and have rusted, causing a bleeding on the old paint surface. Will an acrylic latex
cover these stains and prevent further bleed-through, or must something be done to
these nailheads before applying the acrylic latex topcoat?

A:Stains caused by rusted nails will bleed through the topcoat of even the most durable
paints unless a stain-resistant solvent-based or acrylic latex primer has been applied
first. If you are painting new exterior construction where non-galvanized nails have been
used, it's advisable to spot-prime the nailheads and any knots in the wood prior to
applying the topcoat.

Q: How do I find out if the paint on a house exterior is latex or oil? Is there a quick
test?

A:If the old paint is peeling, take a good size piece of the peeling paint and hold the
edges of it between your thumb and index finger. Exert pressure on both sides of the
chip. If it is very flexible and bends easily, it is probably latex. If it is hard, brittle and
breaks instead of bending, it is most likely oil-based paint. Another way to test the paint
is to wet a rag with denatured alcohol and rub the surface of the paint. If the paint
softens or rubs off, it is most likely latex. An alcohol test usually will not affect an oil-base
paint.

Q: Why do I need to use a primer instead of just using two coats of the finish paint?

A:A primer is beneficial because it helps provide a uniform surface that promotes good
adhesion of the topcoat. A primer can also serve a special purpose by sealing a porous
surface, blocking out stains, preventing rust formation on iron and steel, and preventing
tannin bleed on wood. Most finish paints are designed to provide a decorative or
protective finish for a substrate. In most situations, they do not provide the features of a
primer, so it is always important to follow the manufacturer's recommended coating
system.

Q: What causes fisheyes

A:Fisheyes are caused by some type of surface contamination that was not removed in
preparation for painting. This contamination can be from body oils, silicone from furniture
polish, or any greasy or oil substance. The slippery deposit on the surface does not allow
the paint to adhere, causing it to shrink away from the contamination and form a dimple-
like void in the paint film.

Q: What types of cleaners can I use to remove mildew?

A:Try using a solution of one quart household bleach in three quarts of water. Apply the
solution to the area with mildew and then rinse off with water. Never add detergents or
ammonia to the bleach/water solution. Always protect your skin and eyes against
splashes.

Q: What is the best way to clean a new galvanized surface before painting?

A:If it is not practical to allow the surface to weather for six months before painting, it
must be cleaned with a solvent to remove any surface contaminants and oils applied by
the manufacturer to prevent oxidation of the zinc in the galvanized coating. This is best
accomplished by using a water-soluble degreasing cleaner applied with a clean cloth or
sponge. Change sponge or cloth and cleaning solution frequently so the dirt and oil are
removed from the surface, not just spread to other areas. Rinse the surface thoroughly
and allow to dry before painting.

Q: How long should I wait to apply paint over new stucco?

A:Until recently, you had to wait one to two months for the stucco to cure properly.
However, new-generation masonry primers speed up the process considerably. For
instance, Loxon Exterior Masonry Primer from Sherwin-Williams can be applied as soon
as the stucco is hard, dry and at a pH level of less than 13. After the primer dries, you
can follow with latex house paint immediately.

Q: Can you paint over existing glass particle type stucco and if so, how?

A:Handle it the same as you would a regular stucco finish. Loxon Exterior Masonry Primer
can be applied as soon as the stucco is hard, dry and at a pH level of less than 13. After
the primer dries, you can follow with Duration® or Super Paint. The small glass particles
should be imbedded into the stucco enough that they shouldn't bother the adhesion of
the new paint.

Q: Is it necessary to prime aluminum or vinyl siding before painting?

A:No, as long as the siding has had a chance to weather a year before painting. You do
need to clean the surfaces first with an Extra Strength Cleaner Degreaser. You want to be
sure the surfaces are free of chalk and residue.

Q: How should vinyl siding be prepared prior to painting?

A:Power wash the vinyl siding or use warm soapy water to remove dirt and chalk. Wire
brushing or sanding can mar the surface and cause permanent imperfections.

Q: How would you handle aluminum siding that has been painted a few times and now
has a chalky quality that rubs off when touched?

A:Any surface that has a chalky feel should be cleaned to remove the chalk before
painting. The easiest and most effective way to do this is by pressure washing and using
a chemical injection system attached for the detergent. Be sure to allow the siding to dry
a day or so, to allow the water that is driven up behind the siding to work its way out
before painting.

Q: Is acrylic latex paint a good product for rough-sawn exterior grade plywood siding?
Should the plywood siding be treated with a preservative before applying the primer
and then topcoat?
A:Quality acrylic latex paint is an excellent choice for painting rough-sawn exterior
plywood siding. Preservative treatment of the wood before painting is not necessary if
proper construction practices are followed when installing the siding. There should be no
contact of the bottom edge of the siding with soil or other surfaces where water can
puddle.

Q: How long do I have to wait before staining or painting a new pressure-treated

deck?

A:In the past, the rule of thumb was to wait until the green color faded away. Recent
studies have shown that waiting the six to 12 months necessary for this to happen allows
the wood to deteriorate too much. To adequately protect treated wood from the harmful
effects of rain, snow, mildew and the sun's ultraviolet rays, the wood should be allowed
to thoroughly dry first. Then if the wood will accept a finish, coat it with one of the
Sherwin-Williams DeckScapes systems.

Q: I have an old deck that my customer would like painted. What is the process for
such a project? Will it extend the life of the deck?

A:Painting a wood deck can be the start of an ongoing, frequent painting project. You will
be much better off in the long run to take the time now to remove any existing finish,
clean the wood, and finish the deck with a deck sealer or stain.

When you apply paint to a deck, you put a continuous film of paint on the surface. Also,
you are usually only able to paint the top and ends of the boards, leaving the sides and
underside unprotected and able to absorb moisture. The moisture in the wood is then
drawn to the surface by the heat of the sun and gets trapped under the continuous film
of paint. The paint then blisters and peels, and you start the cycle over again.

A deck sealer or stain does not form a film like paint, but still protects the wood from the
elements and allows moisture to pass through it, lessening the likelihood of blistering and
peeling. Most of the sealers and stains are clear or semi-transparent, so the wood has to
be in pretty good shape to be able to use them. There are some solid color stains
designed specifically to handle foot traffic on a deck that can be applied on an old deck
after it is prepared according to the manufacturer's label instructions.

Q: I have a house with masonite siding that hasn't been painted in several years. In
places the paint is in really bad shape. What is the best way to remove the old paint?
Do you recommend a quick-drying primer/sealer for priming damaged masonite
siding?

A:The best way to remove the old paint is by scraping and sanding to bare wood. Be
careful not to be too aggressive or you'll damage the siding. If the siding has
deteriorated, or is "swelling" due to water absorption, it should be replaced. I recommend
an exterior grade alkyd primer followed by two coats of acrylic latex house paint. The
alkyd primer is best because it seals better on the lower edge of the siding, which helps
prevent edge swell, a common problem on hardboard siding.

Q: Does preprimed hardboard siding have to be primed after it is installed on a

house?

A:It is always a good idea to check the siding manufacturers' recommendations before
painting, but in most situations it won't hurt to apply a coat of exterior alkyd primer
before applying two coats of an acrylic latex topcoat. A coat of primer will promote better
adhesion of the topcoat and assure that the hardboard, particularly the bottom edge, is
adequately sealed from the elements.

Q: What determines if a joint should be recaulked? Should old caulk always be

removed?

A:If the old caulk is cracking or pulling away from the surface, dig it out and replace it.
Prime the bare wood then re-caulk. Any butt joint in siding or other joints between two
pieces of wood should be caulked. You DO NOT want to caulk the lap joints of siding since
they allow moisture to get out from behind the wood.

Q: How do I determine when a concrete floor is ready to paint?

A:New concrete should cure for at least 30 days. Check for moisture by taping a 2'x2'
piece of 4-mil plastic to the floor with duct tape. If no darkening of the concrete or
condensation is evident after 24 hours, the floor is dry enough to paint. The floor should
be thoroughly cleaned and acid etched prior to application.

Q: Can acrylic latex house paint be applied over gloss alkyd paint? Is special prep
work necessary to ensure good adhesion?

A:Yes, to both questions. But, to ensure good adhesion, glossy surfaces must first be
washed clean and then sanded to allow the paint to "grip" the surface. Gloss alkyd paints
that are exposed to harsh weather conditions have a tendency to "chalk" - that is, the old
paint film develops a faded, powdery substance on the surface. So it's best to wash off
any excessive chalk prior to applying an acrylic topcoat. When painting bare surfaces, use
an appropriate primer before applying the topcoat. This will ensure the best adhesion and
long-term durability.

Q: Many of the specifications I read call for solvent cleaning as the surface
preparation. What's the best solvent to use?

A:The most popular specification for solvent cleaning is SSPC-SP 1, from the Steel
Structures Painting Council. It describes solvent cleaning as "A method for removing all
visible oil, grease, soil, drawing and cutting compounds, and other soluble contaminants
from steel surfaces." Although they may be used in some situations, "solvent" does not
necessarily refer to paint solvents such as mineral spirits, xylene, lacquer thinner, etc.
Many contractors prefer to steam clean or use a water-based emulsion or alkaline
cleaners to remove the contamination. For environmental and safety reasons, it's best to
use the mildest "solvent" that will get the job done.

TROUBLESHOOTING

Q: I have tried everything I can think of to keep paint on exterior window sills. What do
you suggest?

A:You should prepare and repaint the entire window unit. Begin by removing all loose
paint with a wire brush or scraper. Don't forget the ends and underside of the sill, as
peeling or cracking often begins there. Next, remove any old caulking from the joints in
the frame and the areas where the frame meets the sill and where the frame and sill
meet the siding. Finish the surface prep by sanding the wood until it has a bright, new
look. This removes any decayed wood fibers from the surface and provides a sound
surface to paint. Now apply one coat of A-100 Exterior Alkyd Wood Primer, again paying
special attention to the end grain and underside of the sill. After the primer dries, apply
an acrylic latex caulk to the joints in the frame, the space between the frame and sill, and
the space between the window and the siding. Follow with two coats of a top-quality
acrylic latex satin or gloss house paint, like SuperPaint. After you replace the storm
window, make sure the drain holes at the bottom are open. This will prevent the
condensation that builds up on the inside of the window from collecting on the sill.

Q: Can mildew be permanently prevented?

A:No. Paints can be formulated to inhibit mildew growth, but under some conditions,
mildew eventually will reappear on any type of paint.

Q: One of my customers is experiencing a great deal of peeling under the eaves of his
house. Is moisture the culprit or do you think I failed to properly prepare the surface
the last time I painted?

A:The eaves of a house are a frequent location for paint problems, with peeling topping
the list of concerns. Moisture drawn out of the house sometimes is the source of the
problem, but more times than not the culprit is lack of inter-coat adhesion. This occurs
when paints are applied to old, hard and glossy paint films and when dirt and
contaminants, such as salt, is not properly removed prior to painting.

Q: Why does wood fencing darken significantly when left unprotected?

A:Ultra-violet radiation from the sun causes wood to naturally darken. For wood surfaces
that have never been coated, or which have been finished with clear varnishes or lightly
pigmented stains, this darkening can be unattractive.

Q: The following day after painting the siding on a house, I noticed wrinkles in various
areas of the finish. What went wrong?

A:When paint is applied in excess of the recommended wet film thickness or when two
coats of paint are applied too quick. This will not allow sufficient drying and wrinkling may
occur. This surface imperfection should be corrected once the paint film has dried by
power sanding. The smooth area should then be primed with a quality oil or latex primer
prior to topcoating.

Q: After painting an aluminum siding with a latex house paint, there where sections of
the house that contained streaks. What happened?

A:When dew forms on latex paints before the film has fully cured, a concentrated residue
from the paint material can form on the surface, causing staining, unsightly runs and
gloss patterns. This finish problem is known as surfactant leaching. Aluminum siding is
particularly prone to surfactant leaching because this type of substrate reacts to
temperature changes faster than wood. To avoid this problem, apply paint during
temperatures that allow proper curing. Avoid painting during hot and humid days with
significantly cooler evening temperatures.
Q: I recently was asked to quote on a re-paint job for a new stucco house with
unsightly stain streaks. Do you know what possibly could be causing this?

A:Stucco and mortar joints contain hydrated or "hot" lime, a dry compound added to
improve the workability of these materials. If the high alkalinity of mortar, cement mixes
and concrete is not addressed prior to painting, a reaction can occur when moisture is
present, resulting in blistering, peeling and burning stains.

Q: What causes reddish colored stains on cedar and redwood?

A:The culprit here is a water-soluble dye called tannin. Moisture in the wood will cause
the tannin to migrate to the surface and stain the paint. New red-colored wood must be
sealed with a quality alkyd or latex undercoater to create a barrier between the topcoat
and the wood. More severe cases of tannin bleed may need one or two coats of an alkyd
primer to prevent discoloration.

Q: Why do doors painted with latex paint sometimes stick to the weather-stripping?

A:Latex paints contain chemicals called plasticizers that allow proper film formation and
keep the coating flexible. Many vinyl and plastic weather-stripping materials also contain
plasticizers to give them flexibility. When two surfaces containing plasticizers come in
contact with each other, they can have the tendency to stick. This condition, known as
blocking, will generally occur during the early curing time of the coating, but it can
continue for some time. Blocking can also occur on double-hung windows and garage
doors. The easiest way to prevent blocking is to use a non-blocking acrylic, or alkyd base
paint in areas where it may occur.

Q: What causes white powdery deposits on masonry surfaces, and how can I fix
them?

A:The deposits, known as efflorescence, are caused by moisture in the masonry. The
moisture dissolves salts in the masonry -- the mortar, block, concrete, etc. -- and is
drawn to the surface by the heat of the sun. The water evaporates, leaving behind white
deposits that must be removed before painting. After you find and fix the source of the
moisture, remove the efflorescence with a wire brush and coat the surface with a
masonry primer and topcoat.

Q: What causes small cracks to form on a recently painted wall?

A. This problem is commonly called "alligatoring." The most common cause of alligatoring
is the application of too thick of a paint film. The surface of the film dries first, with the
rest of the film taking longer to dry than normal. When the underside of the paint finally
does dry, it shrinks, causing the top of the film to pull apart and leaving unsightly cracks.
You can prevent this by applying the paint at the manufacturer's recommended thickness
and spreading rate. A less frequent cause of alligatoring results from painting over a
contaminant on the surface such as oil, silicone, body oils, hair spray, etc. You can
prevent this by thoroughly cleaning the surface before painting.

Q: Why after one year am I getting discoloration on some areas of preprimed finger
jointed wood-work coated with a latex semi-gloss?
A:The most likely cause of the discoloration is the resin in the glue used to hold the wood
together. An alkyd primer applied to the wood before the latex semi-gloss will usually
lock this in, but sometimes you need to resort to an alkyd stain killer, or even a
pigmented shellac stain killer in severe cases.

Q: After a new home is painted and the wood shrinks along with the caulk, is it normal
to need to recaulk and/or repaint before the first year?

A:With the settling you get in a new house and as the wood dries and shrinks, you're
bound to have some places that will need touched up with more caulk and paint. Usually
after the first year, you won't have any more shrinkage. Make sure you use a good
acrylic latex caulk that is flexible and will withstand some movement in the joint.

Q: I recently painted a house with vertical wood siding white, but now notice rust
staining from nails. What should I do?

A:If steel nails or uncoated steel hardware is exposed to air or moisture, unsightly stains
can develop on adjacent paint surfaces. This problem is easily rectified by sanding the
metal clean and applying a rust-preventative primer. Nails should then be countersunk
and caulked or wood filled.

Q: On a newly cedar sided house I am painting, I have noticed discoloration of the

paint film after the paint dried. What could be causing this to occur?

A:Red-colored woods, such as redwood and cedar, contain a water-soluble dye called
tannin. If latex topcoats are applied directly to these wood surfaces, a reddish
discoloration may form through the paint finish. Discoloration may also occur on these
woods by water migrating to the surface.

Q: What usually causes a coating to fail?

A:The most frequent causes for premature paint failure are as follows: insufficient surface
preparation; low film build; improper coating was used; product not applied as directed;
or environmental conditions (moisture, fumes, chemicals, etc.).

Q: Why is it so difficult to keep paint from peeling off of exterior wood decks?

A:The culprit here is moisture. Usually, only the top and ends of the boards used on a
deck are painted. This leaves the sides and bottom uncoated and able to absorb moisture
from rainfall and the soil under the deck. The moisture, drawn to the surface by the heat
of the sun, destroys the adhesive bond between the wood and the paint, causing it to
blister and peel. The best way to protect a new deck is to apply a deck sealer/toner or
semi-transparent stain.

Q: About a year ago, I cleaned and refinished a pressure-treated deck with a clear
water repellent. It looked like new when I finished the job, but a few weeks ago my
customer called me back because the deck had turned gray again. What went wrong?

A:You probably didn't provide the wood with any protection from the damaging effects of
the sun's ultraviolet (UV) rays. Clear water repellents do a great job of protecting wood
from damage caused by water, but they usually don't provide any UV protection. Wood
that is not protected from UV rays can turn a silver gray color in as little as six months.
After you use a deck cleaner to restore the wood to a "like new" look, apply a finish with
UV protection. If you want to change the color of the deck, use a semi-transparent stain
or a toner. For a clear, natural wood look, try one of the new clear wood finishes that
offers UV protection. Many are water reducible for easy clean-up.

Q: What causes frosting? How can it be avoided? What is the proper way to remedy
it?

A:Frosting is a phenomenon caused when latex paint is applied in or is subjected to

conditions that are too cold and/or too damp during the initial curing process. The lower
temperatures and/or dampness do not allow the paint to coalesce, or form a proper film,
which then exposes ingredients in the paint film to the elements. The ingredients that
cause frosting are water-soluble sodium and calcium compounds. These are added to the
paint to improve surface wetting, flow and leveling, and tint acceptance. When the paint
film does not coalesce properly, these materials can rise to the surface, where they are
exposed to moisture, usually combined with cool temperatures. When the moisture
evaporates, a white "frosty" deposit is left on the surface. Frosting can usually be
removed by flooding the surface with warm water. High-pressure washing is not
necessary; just a lot of water to dissolve the material and flush it off the surface. To
prevent frosting, always follow the manufacturers' application recommendations, but
especially during the spring and fall when temperatures can drop drastically within the
first 24-48 hours of applying paint.

Q: How do you determine the difference between wax bleed and mildew on hardboard
siding?

A:Try to clean the area with a mixture of three parts water and one part household
bleach. If it comes clean, it's probably mildew. If you spray the area with a spray bottle
filled with water (like an old window cleaner bottle) and the water beads up and slides
off, the problem could be wax bleed. To further complicate the issue, many areas
affected by wax bleed will easily mildew. Because of the sticky wax on the surface,
mildew attaches to it very easily.

Q: Some of the houses I repaint look like they have white crystals growing on the
exterior siding. What are they and how do I get rid of them?

A:Frosting is a phenomenon caused when latex paint is applied in or is subjected to

conditions that are too cold and/or too damp during the initial curing process. The lower
temperatures and/or dampness do not allow the paint to coalesce, or form a proper film,
which then exposes ingredients in the paint film to the elements. The ingredients that
cause frosting are water-soluble sodium and calcium compounds. These are added to the
paint to improve surface wetting, flow and leveling, and tint acceptance. When the paint
film does not coalesce properly, these materials can rise to the surface, where they are
exposed to moisture, usually combined with cool temperatures. When the moisture
evaporates, a white "frosty" deposit is left on the surface. Frosting can usually be
removed by flooding the surface with warm water. High-pressure washing is not
necessary; just a lot of water to dissolve the material and flush it off the surface. To
prevent frosting, always follow the manufacturers' application recommendations, but
especially during the spring and fall when temperatures can drop drastically within the
first 24-48 hours of applying paint. When painting during these times of the year, when
the temperature may drop to between 35°F and 50°F, you should use Sherwin-Williams
Duration®, Super Paint or A-100 exterior coatings.
Q: I was disappointed to find that the paint I applied over the caulk around windows of
a house cracked. What didn't I do right?

A:When paint is applied over a partially dried bead of caulk, the paint forms a film first.
As the caulk continues to dry, it separates from the underside of the paint film, resulting
in cracks. To prevent this surface defect, allow sufficient time for the caulk to dry prior to
painting. Conditions that affect the drying time of caulks are high humidity, wide joints in
excess of 1/2 inch in width or depth, and low temperatures (below 40° F).

Q: I occasionally have problems with exterior doors being difficult to open after
they've been painted. What causes this and how do I prevent it?

A:Latex paints contain chemicals called plasticizers that allow proper film formation and
keep the coating flexible. Many vinyl and plastic weather-stripping materials also contain
plasticizers to give them flexibility. When two surfaces containing plasticizers come in
contact with each other, they can have the tendency to stick. This condition, known as
blocking, will generally occur during the early curing time of the coating, but it can
continue for some time. Blocking can also occur on double-hung windows and garage
doors. The easiest way to prevent blocking is to use a non-blocking acrylic, or alkyd base
paint in areas where it may occur.

Q: Last fall, I painted a house with a glossy oil-based exterior paint. The job looked
fine when I finished around 5 p.m.; but when I returned the next morning, some areas
were glossy, some flat. What happened?

A:Since you finished painting late in the day, during a season when the temperature
usually drops dramatically as soon as the sun goes down, I suspect that moisture was the
culprit. In the spring and fall, condensation (dew) forms on surfaces that have been
warmed by the sun during the day, then cooled quickly when the air temperature drops
after sunset. Using a glossy oil-based paint, which typically takes longer to dry, can
compound the problem. The slower drying time allows moisture to get into the paint film
before it's fully cured. The result is an uneven, mottled appearance. The problem can
usually be fixed by allowing the paint to dry for a couple of days, then applying another
light coat of the same paint. Allow this coat to dry for several hours before the sun sets
and the temperature drops to prevent a reoccurrence of the problem.