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Any deviation from a strict conformity to the rules of convention is immediately apparent to those in
the know.”. I just wish other vintage sellers knew what they had. Can you give me an idea of value
please They look like a tiny serving bowl on the back and say krementz Plate. Of course, this would
only apply to the analyzed pieces and couldn’t be completely generalized but it would still be
interesting. A man is not well-dressed unless every detail is right and Krementz jewelry is always
correct.”. If there is a maker’s mark, a picture or description of that would be useful as well. The x-
rays do not penetrate deeply, so a multiple layered product may have anomalous results. Material
Matters is run by graduate Fellows in the Winterthur Program in American Material Culture. Student
Name in Full: Aboli Sanjay Deshmukh Signature: Date. Thus, lied an opportunity to enhance
Emerald’s silver vertical by developing a range of contemporary silver jewellery for building a brand
language. There were many types of stud and button fasteners on the market, but the Krementz
patent and a competitor’s “spring back” stud appear to have been the most popular. One is marked
Krementz Plate, the other Park Roger Made in U.S.A. Can you tell me anything about them. The
specific rules that governed men’s jewelry changed over time as well as in relation to what event a
man was attending and the time of day. My survey of its advertisements indicated that the company
tended to focus its ads on its patented men’s pieces. Moreover I also declare that none of the
concepts are borrowed or copied without due acknowledgment. I have either used no substantial
portions of copyright material in my document or I have obtained permission to use copyright
material. When researching for this thesis, I also found a wide variation in contemporary product
descriptions, even for the plated sets. Although the literary sources from the period present a
constant barrage of guidelines and charts that illustrate “correct” men’s dress, it is difficult to know
how many men followed the rules—and to what degree. They have exactly the same back as yours,
and a white metal engraved design on the front. It’s always great to hear that someone cited your
work. The test discussed in the above post served only as a comparative analysis. This graduation
project (or part of it) was not and will not be submitted as assessed work in any other academic
course. Without seeing the piece, I can’t provide any additional assistance with its date, but I hope
that helps. During the period of this study, however, it was hotly contested. Beginning in the 1880s,
surviving archival material provides evidence that the company was producing what one writer called
a “general line” of solid gold jewelry—some of which was set with gems. In May of 1884, George
Krementz was granted a patent for a piece of jewelry called a collar button, which marked a turning
point for the firm. White metal is typically an alloy of several types of metal, but it is not always the
same recipe. For example: the type and quantity of jewelry worn by a black male could act as a
signifier of his thoughts on his relationship with the white American middle class, and recent
immigrants often had to amend their personal taste in order to solidify their new status as Americans
though outward appearance—including jewelry. Etiquette manuals warned that only “exceptional
men” could skirt the established rules and not face ridicule or social limitations. Perhaps the
following quote, taken from a Krementz advertisement, says it best: “What is essential when a man
appears in evening clothes.
Can you give me an idea of value please They look like a tiny serving bowl on the back and say
krementz Plate. A man is not well-dressed unless every detail is right and Krementz jewelry is
always correct.”. In my thesis, I utilize a number of examples to explore this potential for
discrepancy between prescriptive literature and action. The test discussed in the above post served
only as a comparative analysis. The importance of jewelry that would fit in—by not being noticeable
at all—was imparted to men at every turn. Although the term “costume” was not used for much of
the period of this study, after reviewing the information that we ascertained through X-Ray
Fluorescence and Raman Spectroscopy, it is clear that rolled gold plate would not have been
condemned as “fake” jewelry at the time it was created. I found this bracelet in the snow, at a mall
parking lot. Beautiful. It’s so shiny, it gleams antique. I utilized archival records, primary and
secondary sources, jewelry, photographs, oral interviews, and material analyses to explore men’s
jewelry through a variety of lenses, including: advertising, retail, manufacture, and its relationship
with men’s dress. Without seeing the piece, I can’t provide any additional assistance with its date,
but I hope that helps. During the period of this study, however, it was hotly contested. The specific
rules that governed men’s jewelry changed over time as well as in relation to what event a man was
attending and the time of day. I’m dreaming of finding the amethyst dragon brooch one day. Here, I
will limit my commentary to the fact that the sheer number of pieces of “correct” men’s jewelry sold
and the continued popularity of advertisements that played off men’s social anxieties indicate that a
fair number did ascribe to the so-called dress code. Specifically, I outlined and explored the
following types of men’s jewelry within the study: cufflinks, cuff buttons, shirt studs, vest buttons,
dress sets that consisted of the aforementioned items, collar buttons, tie pins and tie clasps, and
rings. I further declare that the intellectual content of this graduation project is the product of my
own work, except to the extent that assistance from others in the project’s design and conception or
in style, presentation and linguistic expression is acknowledged. Etiquette manuals warned that only
“exceptional men” could skirt the established rules and not face ridicule or social limitations. They
are detailed so they look like they have small diamonds around the perimeter, but it is just the
design. The Krementz button’s gold layer, represented by the green peak in the above photo, is much
higher than the red peak of the competitor’s gold plate layer. Some men ignored the rules, using
jewelry to symbolize freedom, while others clung to them in an effort to blend in with a social class
or group that they aspired to join. Second, George Krementz was inspired to create a machine to
produce these one-piece buttons after witnessing the manufacture of cartridges at the Centennial
Exposition, and that machine yielded a then-astonishing 30-40,000 collar buttons per week. For
example, some lightweight chain wire may have eight distinct metallic layers in manufacturing. You
may find more information through an online search using the descriptors you included in your
comments. Material Matters is run by graduate Fellows in the Winterthur Program in American
Material Culture. I would like to complement you on a very well done thesis. Beginning in the
1880s, surviving archival material provides evidence that the company was producing what one
writer called a “general line” of solid gold jewelry—some of which was set with gems. In May of
1884, George Krementz was granted a patent for a piece of jewelry called a collar button, which
marked a turning point for the firm. The guidelines for men’s jewelry functioned as part a “dress
code” of sorts that established a “uniform” which, if executed correctly, allowed men to transcend
the boundaries of class—however briefly. My survey of its advertisements indicated that the
company tended to focus its ads on its patented men’s pieces. Thus, lied an opportunity to enhance
Emerald’s silver vertical by developing a range of contemporary silver jewellery for building a brand
language. Krementz always used 14 karat or higher for its products. I have either used no substantial
portions of copyright material in my document or I have obtained permission to use copyright
material.
My survey of its advertisements indicated that the company tended to focus its ads on its patented
men’s pieces. I would like to complement you on a very well done thesis. The specific rules that
governed men’s jewelry changed over time as well as in relation to what event a man was attending
and the time of day. I have either used no substantial portions of copyright material in my document
or I have obtained permission to use copyright material. Material Matters is run by graduate Fellows
in the Winterthur Program in American Material Culture. Countless Krementz advertisements claim
that the layer of gold plate on any Krementz jewelry was several times thicker than the gold layers of
other plated jewelry. Perhaps the following quote, taken from a Krementz advertisement, says it
best: “What is essential when a man appears in evening clothes. It’s always great to hear that
someone cited your work. In my great-randmother’s (German) Bible she has written, “Willie began
work Krementz March 9th 1905.”. There were many types of stud and button fasteners on the
market, but the Krementz patent and a competitor’s “spring back” stud appear to have been the most
popular. In this thesis, I worked to contextualize men’s jewelry within the larger social, material, and
technological constructs of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries in order to achieve a deeper
understanding of the significance that men’s jewelry had to those who wore it and those who
designed and manufactured it. The guidelines for men’s jewelry functioned as part a “dress code” of
sorts that established a “uniform” which, if executed correctly, allowed men to transcend the
boundaries of class—however briefly. The Krementz button’s gold layer, represented by the green
peak in the above photo, is much higher than the red peak of the competitor’s gold plate layer. Some
men ignored the rules, using jewelry to symbolize freedom, while others clung to them in an effort to
blend in with a social class or group that they aspired to join. Specifically, I outlined and explored the
following types of men’s jewelry within the study: cufflinks, cuff buttons, shirt studs, vest buttons,
dress sets that consisted of the aforementioned items, collar buttons, tie pins and tie clasps, and
rings. During the period of this study, however, it was hotly contested. In my thesis, I utilize a
number of examples to explore this potential for discrepancy between prescriptive literature and
action. Of course, this would only apply to the analyzed pieces and couldn’t be completely
generalized but it would still be interesting. In order to answer that question, I worked with Dr.
Jennifer Mass to conduct a scientific analysis of some Krementz pieces from my personal collection.
Upload Read for free FAQ and support Language (EN) Sign in Skip carousel Carousel Previous
Carousel Next What is Scribd. I was wondering if i could get help identifying what metal was used
on a set i purchased. For that reason, I chose to explore the significance of men’s jewelry between
1866 and 1940, the period in which it was a requirement for any well-dressed gentleman. Report this
Document Download now Save Save SILVER JEWELLERY FOR EMERALD - Graduation
Project. My time in the laboratory was limited, so I had a very specific set of questions that I worked
to answer based on their relevance to my thesis topic. A man is not well-dressed unless every detail is
right and Krementz jewelry is always correct.”. They are the gold with black onyx buttons in great
shape. Without seeing the piece, I can’t provide any additional assistance with its date, but I hope
that helps. I wasn’t able to test any pieces from the fine jewelry lines, so I can’t speak at all to the
composition of those sets. First and foremost, the collar button was made in one piece, which was a
decided improvement on earlier, multiple-piece buttons with weak seams that had a tendency to
break.
Since rolled gold plate consisted of an exterior layer of gold bonded to a base metal through a
modified Sheffield Process, it might be considered costume jewelry today—but what about in the
period. I would like to complement you on a very well done thesis. Can you give me an idea of
value please They look like a tiny serving bowl on the back and say krementz Plate. I found this
bracelet in the snow, at a mall parking lot. Beautiful. It’s so shiny, it gleams antique. They are the
gold with black onyx buttons in great shape. For that reason, I chose to explore the significance of
men’s jewelry between 1866 and 1940, the period in which it was a requirement for any well-dressed
gentleman. This unfaltering emphasis on “correctness” of style has been explored in relation to other
aspects of men’s dress, but rarely in relation to jewelry. Krementz always used 14 karat or higher for
its products. Although the term “costume” was not used for much of the period of this study, after
reviewing the information that we ascertained through X-Ray Fluorescence and Raman
Spectroscopy, it is clear that rolled gold plate would not have been condemned as “fake” jewelry at
the time it was created. I just wish other vintage sellers knew what they had. My survey of its
advertisements indicated that the company tended to focus its ads on its patented men’s pieces.
Student Name in Full: Aboli Sanjay Deshmukh Signature: Date. Some called it white gold overlay,
which others consistently called similar patterns platinum. They have exactly the same back as yours,
and a white metal engraved design on the front. Of course, this would only apply to the analyzed
pieces and couldn’t be completely generalized but it would still be interesting. It says set no. 2088
white metal rims. They look like the ones pictured above. In this thesis, I worked to contextualize
men’s jewelry within the larger social, material, and technological constructs of the nineteenth and
twentieth centuries in order to achieve a deeper understanding of the significance that men’s jewelry
had to those who wore it and those who designed and manufactured it. Most other manufacturers
used 13.5 karat, which was considered legal until the 1950s. The x-rays do not penetrate deeply, so a
multiple layered product may have anomalous results. They are detailed so they look like they have
small diamonds around the perimeter, but it is just the design. I’m dreaming of finding the amethyst
dragon brooch one day. Etiquette manuals warned that only “exceptional men” could skirt the
established rules and not face ridicule or social limitations. In my thesis, I utilize a number of
examples to explore this potential for discrepancy between prescriptive literature and action. Actual
white gold electroplate was very rare in the US industry. The collar button was the subject of a
Supreme Court Case, and numerous injunctions in lower courts, as competitors tried to either
overturn the patent or “imitated” its one-piece construction—and sometimes even attempted to
capitalize off of the company name. Thus, lied an opportunity to enhance Emerald’s silver vertical by
developing a range of contemporary silver jewellery for building a brand language. Upload Read for
free FAQ and support Language (EN) Sign in Skip carousel Carousel Previous Carousel Next What
is Scribd. And the other clasp piece has the patent number,3308517. The test discussed in the above
post served only as a comparative analysis. Instead, men’s jewelry was held to a dual standard of
“correctness” and functionality.
I wasn’t able to test any pieces from the fine jewelry lines, so I can’t speak at all to the composition
of those sets. I found this bracelet in the snow, at a mall parking lot. Beautiful. It’s so shiny, it gleams
antique. You may find more information through an online search using the descriptors you included
in your comments. Upload Read for free FAQ and support Language (EN) Sign in Skip carousel
Carousel Previous Carousel Next What is Scribd. Of particular note to jewelry historians is the fact
that the thesis contains previously unpublished images of the Krementz factory around the turn of
the 20 th century, since factory images from that period are rare. Fasteners were important—if a
man’s shirt stud or vest button failed, he faced a wardrobe malfunction that could make him a
spectacle—which was exactly what his “correct” jewelry was supposed to avoid. For that reason, I
chose to explore the significance of men’s jewelry between 1866 and 1940, the period in which it
was a requirement for any well-dressed gentleman. Etiquette manuals warned that only “exceptional
men” could skirt the established rules and not face ridicule or social limitations. I’m dreaming of
finding the amethyst dragon brooch one day. In this thesis, I worked to contextualize men’s jewelry
within the larger social, material, and technological constructs of the nineteenth and twentieth
centuries in order to achieve a deeper understanding of the significance that men’s jewelry had to
those who wore it and those who designed and manufactured it. When researching for this thesis, I
also found a wide variation in contemporary product descriptions, even for the plated sets. Here, I
will limit my commentary to the fact that the sheer number of pieces of “correct” men’s jewelry sold
and the continued popularity of advertisements that played off men’s social anxieties indicate that a
fair number did ascribe to the so-called dress code. Earposts were made of solid 14 karat gold to
reduce the possibility of ear inflammation, and also because the ear clutch would tend to scrape gold
off the post. Student Name in Full: Aboli Sanjay Deshmukh Signature: Date. For example, some
lightweight chain wire may have eight distinct metallic layers in manufacturing. Second, George
Krementz was inspired to create a machine to produce these one-piece buttons after witnessing the
manufacture of cartridges at the Centennial Exposition, and that machine yielded a then-astonishing
30-40,000 collar buttons per week. I suspect they are from the early 20th century, since my
grandmother’s brother worked at Krementz, as did numerous German-Americans in Newark. This
graduation project (or part of it) was not and will not be submitted as assessed work in any other
academic course. Countless Krementz advertisements claim that the layer of gold plate on any
Krementz jewelry was several times thicker than the gold layers of other plated jewelry. They are the
gold with black onyx buttons in great shape. I further declare that the intellectual content of this
graduation project is the product of my own work, except to the extent that assistance from others in
the project’s design and conception or in style, presentation and linguistic expression is
acknowledged. There was an extremely strong bias against electrolate gold. For the thesis, I defined
men’s jewelry as any male accessory created in a jewelry factory or by a jeweler. The specific rules
that governed men’s jewelry changed over time as well as in relation to what event a man was
attending and the time of day. Some men ignored the rules, using jewelry to symbolize freedom,
while others clung to them in an effort to blend in with a social class or group that they aspired to
join. They are detailed so they look like they have small diamonds around the perimeter, but it is just
the design. If there is a maker’s mark, a picture or description of that would be useful as well. If it is
a genuine krementz bracelet, you should also know what the mark is. This unfaltering emphasis on
“correctness” of style has been explored in relation to other aspects of men’s dress, but rarely in
relation to jewelry. The collar button was the subject of a Supreme Court Case, and numerous
injunctions in lower courts, as competitors tried to either overturn the patent or “imitated” its one-
piece construction—and sometimes even attempted to capitalize off of the company name.
The specific rules that governed men’s jewelry changed over time as well as in relation to what event
a man was attending and the time of day. I just wish other vintage sellers knew what they had. You
may find more information through an online search using the descriptors you included in your
comments. If there is a maker’s mark, a picture or description of that would be useful as well.
Earposts were made of solid 14 karat gold to reduce the possibility of ear inflammation, and also
because the ear clutch would tend to scrape gold off the post. For Later 0% 0% found this document
useful, Mark this document as useful 100% 100% found this document not useful, Mark this
document as not useful Embed Share Print Download now Jump to Page You are on page 1 of 223
Search inside document. The Krementz button’s gold layer, represented by the green peak in the
above photo, is much higher than the red peak of the competitor’s gold plate layer. The importance of
jewelry that would fit in—by not being noticeable at all—was imparted to men at every turn.
Without seeing the piece, I can’t provide any additional assistance with its date, but I hope that
helps. This unfaltering emphasis on “correctness” of style has been explored in relation to other
aspects of men’s dress, but rarely in relation to jewelry. They have exactly the same back as yours,
and a white metal engraved design on the front. The collar button was the subject of a Supreme
Court Case, and numerous injunctions in lower courts, as competitors tried to either overturn the
patent or “imitated” its one-piece construction—and sometimes even attempted to capitalize off of
the company name. There was an extremely strong bias against electrolate gold. Second, George
Krementz was inspired to create a machine to produce these one-piece buttons after witnessing the
manufacture of cartridges at the Centennial Exposition, and that machine yielded a then-astonishing
30-40,000 collar buttons per week. It’s always great to hear that someone cited your work. Of course,
this would only apply to the analyzed pieces and couldn’t be completely generalized but it would
still be interesting. I was wondering if i could get help identifying what metal was used on a set i
purchased. Ascertaining the karat weight of the gold wasn’t one of them, as it is marked on many of
the pieces. I found this bracelet in the snow, at a mall parking lot. Beautiful. It’s so shiny, it gleams
antique. And the other clasp piece has the patent number,3308517. Any deviation from a strict
conformity to the rules of convention is immediately apparent to those in the know.”. Report this
Document Download now Save Save SILVER JEWELLERY FOR EMERALD - Graduation
Project. Since rolled gold plate consisted of an exterior layer of gold bonded to a base metal through
a modified Sheffield Process, it might be considered costume jewelry today—but what about in the
period. For example, some lightweight chain wire may have eight distinct metallic layers in
manufacturing. I suspect they are from the early 20th century, since my grandmother’s brother
worked at Krementz, as did numerous German-Americans in Newark. I would like to complement
you on a very well done thesis. The XRF may only see the top layer of gold, or may penetrate
further to see silver solder, nickel interliner, brass substrate, silver lubricant. Although the literary
sources from the period present a constant barrage of guidelines and charts that illustrate “correct”
men’s dress, it is difficult to know how many men followed the rules—and to what degree. In my
thesis, I utilize a number of examples to explore this potential for discrepancy between prescriptive
literature and action. Krementz always used 14 karat or higher for its products.