SEOUL

TOP SIGHTS • LOCAL LIFE • MADE EASY

Trent Holden

0-title-page-contents-pk-seo1.indd 1 25/09/2015 12:20:29 PM

 In This Book

QuickStart
16 Need to Know 17 18 Neighbourhoods 19

Before You Go Arriving in Seoul Getting Around Gwanghwamun &

Need to Your Daily Budget The main international gateway is Incheon %X\D70RQH\FDUG ϷHQJWPRQH\ Seoul Around (p22)
Home to many of

Know %XGJHWXQGHUϷ
International Airport (%02-1577 2600;
www.airport.kr; W , 52km west of central
FRNU ZKLFKSURYLGHVDϷGLVFRXQWSHU
trip on bus, subway, taxi and train fares. Sub-
way is by the best way of getting around, with
Neighbourhoods Seoul’s most famous
sights, including World
X 'RUPEHGϷ Seoul on the island of Yeongjongdo. A handful Heritage–listed palaces
an efficient, speedy and cheap service that and temples. Dongdaemun &
of international flights also arrive at Gimpo Eastern Seoul
For more information, 6WUHHWIRRGϷ²Ϸ
X links the entire city. Taxis are also reasonably E Top Sights

Guide
International Airport (%02-1661 2626; (p114)
see Survival Guide X Hiking up Namsan: free priced and good for short trips.
gimpo.airport.co.kr; :HVW6HRXO , 18km west Gyeongbokgung Markets and late-night
Entry to National Museum of Korea: free of the city centre.
Currency
X
b Subway Changdeokgung shopping combined with
Korean ZRQ Ϸ excellent history,
0LGUDQJHϷ²Ϸ A From Incheon International The subway ZZZVPUWFRNU is the Jogye-sa
contemporary sights
Hanok WUDGLWLRQDOJXHVWKRXVH Ϸ Airport best way to get around with its extensive
Language
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network, frequent services and inexpensive Gyeongbokgung # E E
# Changdeokgung and local experiences.
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fares. Hongdae & Around E
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E Top Sights
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X 7KHDWUHWLFNHWϷ WUDLQVϷ PLQXWHV ZKLFKDOVRVWRS (p64) Dongdaemun Design
Visas
at Hongik University for those staying in
K Taxi A creative hub Dongdaemun Plaza
Australian, UK, US and most Western 7RS(QGRYHUϷ
Hongdae. From Seoul Station transfer to your %HVWIRUVKRUWWULSVEDVLFIDUHVWDUWVDW populated by students, Deoksugung # E E
# Design Plaza
European citizens receive a 90-day entry
permit on arrival.
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Money '0=WRXUϷ Myeong-dong &
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The bus system (www.bus.go.kr; boutiques and bars. Namsan & #
ATMs widely available. Credit cards N Seoul Tower Jung-gu (p44)
A From Gimpo International hDPPLGQLJKW is handy for routes This downtown district
accepted by most businesses, but some Airport around Namsan; less so for other places.
smaller food places and markets are cash Useful Websites has outstanding

Your keys to under-

only.
Mobile Phones
South Korea uses the CDMA digital
standard; check compatibility with your
phone provider. Phones can be hired at the
airport and elsewhere.
Time
GMT/UTC plus nine hours. No daylight
$·5(;WUDLQVUXQWR6HRXO6WDWLRQ Ϸ sightseeing, theatre and
H Bicycle
Visit Seoul (ZZZYLVLWVHRXOQHW 7KHRIILFLDO PLQXWHV RU\RXFDQWDNHWKHVXEZD\ Ϸ shopping opportunities.
government site to everything about the city. Hire for pedalling along the Han River and
PLQXWHV %RWKEXV Ϸ DQGWD[L
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E Top Sights
Seoul KWWSPDJD]LQHVHRXOVHOHFWLRQFRP  National
minutes to an hour, depending on traffic. Museum Namsan &
Online version of monthly magazine with its
K Car Hire of Korea N Seoul Tower
finger on the city’s pulse.
d Seoul Station Useful only for long trips out of the city; E
#
Namdaemun Market
Lonely Planet ZZZORQHO\SODQHWFRPVHRXO 
Long-distance trains arrive at the centrally H[SHFWWRSD\IURPϷSHUGD\ Deoksugung
Destination information, hotel bookings,
located Seoul Station (b/LQHRU
traveller forum and more.
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standing the city –

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Advance Planning
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modation; start learning hangeul (the Korean 1 1 1 1 1 Famous for its residents'
two round pins with no earth. the east side of the station. Itaewon 1has 1a heap
1 of
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over-the-top luxurious
cool sights, bars and lifestyles, this affluent
Tipping If visiting April to June, book for Moonlight Worth a Trip 1
restaurants.
1 1 1 1

Not a Korean custom, and is not expected.

Tours of Changdeokgung. E Top Sights E Top Sights
area also has great
sights and eating, and
Three weeks before Plan itinerary; book Olympic Park an entertainment zone.
National Museum of
DMZ tour and Templestay program. The Demilitarized Zone

we help you decide

Korea
One week before Make reservations at (DMZ)
top-end restaurants; buy concert tickets.

what to do and how Need to Know Neighbourhoods

to do it Tips for a What’s where
smooth trip

10 Top Sights Top Sights 11 12 Local Life 13

Explore
Deoksugung Dongdaemun
Enjoy the changing of the Design Plaza Seoul
Local Life
guard outside Deoksu- Rising up behind the
gung before heading lively shopping district is
inside to wander the the sleek, silvery form of
pleasant palace grounds. the Zaha Hadid–designed
JOHN W BANAGAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

Architectural fans will

,QVLGHUWLSVWRKHOS\RXÀQGWKHUHDOFLW\
INSUNG JEON/GETTY IMAGES ©

DDP. An architectural

FLASH PARKER/GETTY IMAGES ©

be intrigued by its mix of show-stopper that could
Joseon-era buildings and hardly be more 21st cen-
neoclassical 20th-century tury in its conception, the
designs. DDP has affirmed itself Amid visiting its palaces and museums, leave time to enjoy the things locals most
as one of Seoul’s most love about their city. From sipping tea in a wooden hanok and getting merry with

Seoul
striking landmarks. makgeolli (milky rice wine) to indulging in extravagances south of the river, local
experiences, for many travellers, are the highlight of a visit to Seoul.
Other great places
National Museum of Namdaemun Korean barbecue and side dishes
to experience the
Korea Market Pop musician, Hongdae (p64) city like a local:
Hipster Hongdae with a love of the arts. galleries and K-Pop sights Exploring Bukchon
Survey centuries of Join the masses and Hanok Village
PHOTOGRAPH BY KANGHEEWAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

Korean culture and art at head into Namdaemun X Food and drink
Here you’ll visit vibrant along the way. Koong
X Live music and clubs alleyways full of colourful X Hanok
the mammoth National Market to take in its pul-
murals, quirky private X Teahouses
Museum of Korea and sating energy. At Korea’s Seoul doesn’t get much Bar-Hopping in Story of the Blue Star
BRIAN COLELLA/GETTY IMAGES ©

museums and galleries, In contrast to Seoul’s

take time to explore the largest market, you’ll cooler than the student Itaewon
attached gardens. eat very well and snare neighbourhood of Hong- and many theatres host- rapid-fire modernisa- Noryangjin Fish Market
X Craft beer
plenty of bargains. dae in the city’s west. It’s ing performance art. tion and high-rises, the
X Traditional Korean alcohol
charming backstreets of Seoul Forest
a great place for hanging There’s definitely no
out or moseying around Oppa Gangnam Bukchon offer a glimpse
shortage of spots to into its past. The neigh- Seoul Yangnyeongsi
vintage stores, cool cafes, Style carouse at in Itaewon, Herb Medicine Market
bourhood is famous for

The best things to

bars, galleries and indie X Shopping from seedy bars to chic
markets. Nightlife is also a its atmospheric hanok
X K-Pop clubs. For a more local Jungang Market
(traditional wooden
Namsan & N Seoul Olympic Park highlight: there are plenty Among the cosmetic experience, head to houses), and as you
Tower of great band venues or surgery clinics and Haebangchon, a once Neurin Maeul
A centrepiece for the stroll through, you’ll find
clubs with tops DJs. Chihuahua-clutching downtrodden and gritty
Protected within a 1988 Olympics, and still many have been con-
fashionistas, upscale neighbourhood that’s HBC Gogitjip
109-hectare park and the site of many of its verted into teahouses,
crowned by N Seoul stadiums, this giant park Northern Seoul Apgujeong Rodeo St lies reinvented itself as one of museums, bars and even Jamsil Baseball
Tower, one of Seoul’s mixes large tracts of X Urban art at the heart of Gangnam’s Itaewon’s coolest areas. pizzerias.

SIMON RICHMOND/GETTY IMAGES ©

Stadium
SEONGJOON CHO/GETTY IMAGES ©

X Nature lavishness and excesses. This evening out takes

PRESSDIGITAL/GETTY IMAGES ©

most distinctive architec- nature with 700-year-old

see and do,

tural features, Namsan fortifications, museums The neighborhoods in This walk offers a fasci- you to its best craft-brew Mullae Arts Village
is the most central of and 200 quirky Seoul’s northern confines nating insight to see how pubs, cocktail bars and
the city’s four guardian sculptures. are prime areas for visi- the other half live, with cherished locals.
mountains. tors seeking local experi- luxury shopping, chic
ences, particularly those

neighbourhood by Top Sights Local Life

neighbourhood
Make the most The insider's city
of your visit

128 Namsan to City Hall 129 140 Best Architecture Best Architecture 141

1 Namsan & N 4 PLATEAU colonial architecture to arrival for the changing-

Seoul Tower be seen, including the of-the-guards ceremony,

The Best
A short stroll up from
Best Walks Take the cable car, the market is the classy 1928 former courthouse,
which now houses the
held three times a day.
Best
Namsan to or follow the path up PLATEAU gallery. Its
7 City Hall & Architecture
ANDRÁS GUERRERO COLLADO/GETTY IMAGES ©

past the Seoul City monthly shows exhibit Seoul Museum of

City Hall Wall, to the top of works by local contem- Art – one of the city’s
finest modern-art gal-
Seoul Plaza
Cross the road to reach
Namsan – enjoying porary artists and are Seoul’s skyline – dominated by skyscrapers –
2 The Walk
ANDERW HAIG/GETTY IMAGES ©

the fresh air, forested always worth a look. leries. another city landmark:
suggests no building has survived the war and
Combining mountain trails with plenty of Joseon-era hills and shrines along The magnificent lobby Seoul City Hall, with
6 Deoksugung economic modernisation. But architecture from
history, traditional and modern culture, and delicious the way. At the top of features two epic pieces its striking glass-wave
all periods of Seoul’s history does remain. Visitors
food, this walk showcases downtown Seoul. Take the Namsan, zip up the by master sculptor A few twists and turns facade. Head down
will discover not only city walls, grand palaces and
cable car up past the Seoul City Wall to Namsan to 236m N Seoul Tower Auguste Rodin. ahead is one of Seoul’s to the basement for
decorative temples, but also charming hanok (tra-
enjoy sweeping views and fresh air. Admire the city to enjoy incredible most famous palaces. multimedia art exhibi-
from atop N Seoul Tower, before descending down
ditional wooden homes) and dramatic contempo-
skyline views. 5 Seoul Museum Used off and on as the tions. It’s adjoined by
rary structures.

of Seoul
the mountain to Namdaemun Market for a lively of Art king’s residence from the Seoul Metropolitan
atmosphere and delicious food. Moving along you’ll 2 Sungnyemun the 16th century, it’s the Library, a renaissance- Best Colonial
Further along you’ll
see fantastic contemporary artwork before explor- last palace used during style building with an Modern Architecture Architecture Seoul Museum of Art A Best Best Landmarks
The park continues over arrive at the former for-
ing the 16th-century palace, and a fascinating mix of Seoul Metropolitan
a road tunnel down past eign legation quarter of the Joseon dynasty. It’s iconic clock, which Over the last decade Seoul has worked hard to grand building that dates Contemporary N Seoul Tower Seoul’s
colonial and contemporary architecture. Library The former from 1928 and was the
sections of the wall, Seoul. Established dur- notable for its mix of looks over the grassy soften its industrial hard edges into an appealing Architecture most iconic structure sits
colonial and traditional Seoul Plaza. urban ideal of parks, culture and design. Glass, City Hall, this 1926 former Supreme Court.
Start Namsan cable-car station; bLine 4 to leading to the recently ing the late 1900s, there Dongdaemun Design atop Namsan.
architecture. Time your concrete and steel are crafted into natural forms at Renaissance-style build-
Myeongdong, Exit 3 renovated Sungnyemun are many examples of Plaza & Park Zaha Lotte World Tower Set
ing is fronted by its iconic
. The majestic Joseon-era the spectacular Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park
analogue clock.
Best Joseon-Era Hadid’s sleek silvery to be the peninsula’s tall-
Finish City Hall; bLine 1 or 2 to City Hall, Exit 5 and the new City Hall. Architecture landmark is straight out est building, this 555m-
De

gate was first erected

Deoksugung Among the of a sci-fi fantasy.
ok

su Gyeongbokgung The high tower was inspired

Length 2.5km; three hours in the 14th century, gu #
æ
7 Traditional Architecture traditional Korean halls
ng Eulji-ro
and stands out grandly largest of Seoul’s pal- Some Sevit These futur- by traditonal Korean
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V
#
6 Seoul There are three main types of traditional architec- and pavilions are neo-
5 Take a Break # ceramics.
Supyo-ro

among its 21st-century â aces, fronted by a grand istic buildings sit on three
l

5 Plaza
g-gi
l M a re un ture found in Seoul: palaces, temples and homes. classical 20th-century
# City Hall
¦ nae-ro gateway. artificial islands on the
surrounds. Mye ong -do n 63 Square One of

The city’s
Head to the food alley near Gate 5 at Namdaemun architecture by British,
daerog-

They are all primarily made of wood, with no nails Han River and glow bright
n-ro

Market for the cluster of indoor stalls cooking up Japanese and Russian Changdeokgung Fea- Seoul’s tallest buildings,
Sejon

un-ro used – a system of braces and brackets holds the at night.

fresh, cheap and tasty bibimbap. 3 Namdaemun Seosom u architects. tures its beautiful main this gleaming skyscraper
dae m Myeongdong
w elements together. A prominent feature is the roof
w
Market #
To

â
# Nam palace, Injeongjeon. Seoul City Hall This has a 60th-floor observa-
So

4 #
¦ w Myeong-dong Catholic
#
#
æ #
#
æ of these structures, which is made from heavy
ng

3 w tion deck offering pano-

gon

2
Cross the road to the NAMSAN- YEAJANG- Cathedral Gothic-style Jongmyo One of Seoul’s giant glass wave is a
il-ro

ye-ro DONG clay tiles with dragons or other mythical beasts modern reinterpretation ramic views.
g-

sprawling Namdae- eg DONG cathedral with a vaulted best-preserved Confu-

embossed on the end tile. The strikingly bold,
ro

ceiling and stained-glass of traditional Korean

To

mun Market, the cian shrines and World

NAMCHANG- predominantly green-and-orange paintwork under
largest in Korea. Join DONG Namsan Cable windows. Heritage–listed. design. Best Hanok
¤
# Car Station the eaves is called dancheong.
SANTI RODRIGUEZ/GETTY IMAGES ©

Sop Ewha Womans Univer- Namsangol Hanok Vil-

the sea of shoppers to Seoul £
# Culture Station Seoul Sungnyemun The
w
w

a-ro
browse stalls selling JUNG-GU
Hanok 284 The former Seoul recently restored South sity Dominique Perrault’s lage Five differing yang-

highlights
w
w

clothing, accessories Namsan Station with domed roof Gate is an imposing sight stunning main entrance ban (upper-class) houses
Park These one-storey homes are complex in design yet are in this park at the foot
and souvenirs. Head dates from 1925. rising above the traffic. dives six storeys under-
Upper Cable masterfully understated. They are crafted entirely ground. of Namsan.
down one of the food ¤
# Car Station from wood, save for the clay-tiled roofs, while the win- Bank of Korea Money
Huam-ro

alleys for a delicious #

æ1 S
e dows are made of a thin paper that allows daylight to Museum Attractive Bukchon Hanok Village
Korean meal. Japanese colonial build- Around 900 hanok are
oul

e
# 0
0
500 m
0.25 miles
Namsan R
(262m)
Cit
y Wal
stream in. They’re insulated with mud and straw, and
ing dating from 1912. found in this traditional
l heated by the underfloor system called ondol.
neighbourhood.

in handy lists Best Walks Seoul’s Best…

to help you plan See the city on foot The best experiences

156 Survival Guide Essential Information 157  Arriving in Seoul 155
¨ Regular taxis charge ¨ City/KAL limousine that connects destina- have a free interpreta- Bicycle International Airport). Daily Koreastay (www.koreastay. down this gem near
Arriving in

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along the Han River. by the Korean Tourism Minari House (www. Seoul
Guide
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downtown Seoul. From DURXQGPLQXWHV  phone. ¨ Bicycles can be rented
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20% surcharge. several parks along the way to get to your accom-
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Han River, including on Essential you wish to stay with a Small House Big Door modation
¨ The minimum fare of Yeouido and at Seoul Korean family.
Gimpo
International
40 minutes.
Ϸ ϷZLWKD English-speaking driv-
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Forest Park. There’s also Information Hanok Homestay
(www.smallhousebigdoor.
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Airport
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up to 12km. reserved in advance for
free bicycle rental from
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Guide
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hotelsunbee.com) Huge
double beds in tastefully International Airport
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y Best for... local experi- hours Friday and Saturday
including ones with digital 30/86
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¨ Backpacker guest- Park Hyatt Seoul (www.
Subway touch screens, inside the Cafes 7am to 10pm
20/68
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from the airport to Seoul
around quickly, easily and Monday to Friday -10/14 0\HRQJGRQJ,WDHZRQ rooftop hang-out. porary design hotel
to take. bus system (www.bus.go.kr; the impatience and reck-
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Tips and tricks

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give driving a miss. also accept conventional
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overnight guests. They can
as you exit as well as when ¨ Driving is on the right. Korea Pass (http:// heating and public ice- often rainy weather; K Hostel (www.khostel. Itaewon. Ϸ PLQXWHV 
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grey-coloured taxis are a ¨ To rent a car, you must facilities not dissimilar to Plaza (www.hotel
you do on the subway. be over 21 and have both html/koreapass/IHKPAZZ_ cold temperatures. plunge in Han River top-end hotels. full of murals with a cool WRSP
Bus, subway, taxi and train fares can all be paid good deal for short trips. theplaza.com) Large
using the rechargeable touch-and-go T-Money a driving licence from V100.jsp) is a prepaid card, swimming pools. ¨ The city limousine bus-
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card (http://eng.t-money.co.kr), which gives you ¨ 7KHÁDJIDOOIRUNPLV
distance express buses your own country and available in denomina- Peak season to visit, with ¨ Autumn (Sep–Nov) Useful Websites es take an hour to reach
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onds after that if the taxi is ¨ Green buses Link sub- of the budget hanok contemporary facade of
subway station booth, bus kiosk and conveni- discounts on a range of such as Jongmyo excellent hiking across for all kinds of accommo- WRPLQXWHV 7KH
WUDYHOOLQJEHORZNPK ways within a district. ¨ Incheon International guesthouses. City Hall.
ence store displaying the T-Money logo; reload it goods and services. It can Daeje and Lotus Lantern mountains coated in bril- deluxe KAL limousine
Airport has a couple of dation in Seoul.
with credit at any of the aforementioned places, ¨ A 20% surcharge is ¨ Blue buses Run to be bought at Lotte Mart Festival. liant colours. La Casa (www.hotellacasa. buses (www.kallimousine.
car-rental agencies. Try Best Midrange
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before you leave Seoul. top-end hotels. co.kr) Worth tracking top hotels around Seoul.
English, but most taxis small districts. 3300; www.avis.com; Incheon International Airport.

hassle-free city
Getting Around Essential Information
experience
Travel like a local Including where to stay

0-title-page-contents-pk-seo1.indd 2 25/09/2015 12:20:42 PM

 Our selection of the city’s best places to Lonely Planet’s
eat, drink and experience: Seoul
Lonely Planet Pocket Guides
1 Sights are designed to get you
5 Eating straight to the heart of the city.
Inside you’ll find all the
6 Drinking must-see sights, plus tips to
make your visit to each one
3 Entertainment really memorable. We’ve split
the city into easy-to-navigate
7 Shopping neighbourhoods and provided
clear maps so you’ll find your
way around with ease. Our
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information for each listing: out the best of the city: walks,
food, nightlife and shopping,
% Telephone Numbers c Family-Friendly to name a few. Because you
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short visits, how to get around,
and how much to tip the guy
who serves you a drink at the
Find each listing quickly on maps
end of a long day’s exploration.
for each neighbourhood:
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 QuickStart Explore
Guide 7 Seoul 21
Seoul Top Sights .................8
22 Gwanghwamun & Around
Seoul Local Life .................12
Seoul Day Planner ............14 44 Myeong-dong & Jung-gu
Need to Know ....................16
Seoul Neighbourhoods ....18 64 Hongdae & Around

80 Itaewon & Around

98 Gangnam & Apgujeong

114 Dongdaemun & Eastern Seoul

Worth a Trip:
Northern Seoul.....................................42
Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) &
Joint Security Area (JSA) .................. 96
Olympic Park .......................................112

0-title-page-contents-pk-seo1.indd 4 25/09/2015 12:20:56 PM

 The Best of Survival
Seoul 127 Guide 153
Seoul’s Best Walks Before You Go ................. 154

Namsan to City Hall...........................128 Arriving in Seoul ..............155

Insa-dong & Palaces..........................130 Getting Around............... 156

Dongdaemun......................................132 Essential Information .....157

Language ......................... 161

Seoul’s Best …
Food .....................................................134
Historical Sights .................................136
Drinking & Nightlife............................138
Architecture........................................140
Museums & Galleries ........................142
Entertainment ....................................144
Gay & Lesbian ....................................145
Shopping.............................................146
Parks & Gardens ................................148
With Kids .............................................149
For Free ...............................................150
Art & Design ....................................... 152

0-title-page-contents-pk-seo1.indd 5 25/09/2015 12:20:57 PM

1-quickstart-pk-seo1.indd
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 7

QuickStart
Guide
Seoul Top Sights ...................................................... 8

Seoul Local Life .......................................................12

Seoul Day Planner ..................................................14

Need to Know ..........................................................16

Seoul Neighbourhoods ..........................................18

Welcome to
Seoul
Overcoming the upheavals of war, cultural destruction,
dictatorships and economic ruin, Seoul has not only landed
on its feet, but emerged as one of the world’s great 21st-
century cities. A fascinating mix of old and new, Seoul bal-
ances traditional culture with contemporary attractions.
With amazing food, happening nightlife and a lively arts
scene, Seoul’s enjoying a renaissance not to be missed.

Lantern festival, Cheong-gye-cheon (p34)

GLENN SUNDEEN - TIGERPAL/GETTY IMAGES ©

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 8

Seoul
Top Sights

RICHARD NEBESKY/GETTY IMAGES ©

Changdeokgung (p26)
The World Heritage–listed Changdeokgung was built in the early 15th century
as a secondary palace to Gyeongbokgung. The most charming section is Hu-
won, a ‘secret garden’ that is a royal horticultural idyll.

MAREMAGNUM/GETTY IMAGES ©
CHRISTIAN KOBER/JOHN WARBURTON-LEE
PHOTOGRAPHY LTD/GETTY IMAGES ©
TOPIC PHOTO AGENCY/CORBIS ©

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