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The Void Cardigan

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Introduction/Inspiration
Thank you so much for the purchase of this pattern, I appreciate it so much! The
inspiration for the name of this cardigan came from the fact that it is entirely made
of mesh stitches so there is a lot of empty space. ;)

Please take your time to read all the details on the following pages to ensure you
have everything you need.

You can find and follow me at:

Instagram - @nessas.knots
TikTok - @NessasKnots
Facebook - @NessasKnots
Pintrest - @NessasKnots

Email for pattern support: nessasknots@gmail.com

Disclosure

You may sell finished products using this pattern

Please tag me as the pattern designer in finished pieces for credit. I can't wait to
see what you make! :)

You are not permitted to sell, modify, or distribute any parts of this pattern.

This pattern is not intended for mass production from large corporations.

Thank you so much for understanding! :)

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Materials & Abbreviations

Materials Needed:

Yarn: Approx. 2-4 cakes of Hobbii's "Winter Glow" in the color

"Black/Copper/Purple/Rose" depending on your size. OR any light worsted size 3
yarn. Keep in mind if you are using a different size yarn, the look of your cardigan
will differ slightly.
Approximate Yards Used: 1,500 - 3,000 yards depending on your size and the
length you make.
Hook size: 4.5 mm Hook
Measuring Tape
Stitch Markers
Tapestry Needle
Scissors

Abbreviations:

CH: Chain
SC: Single Crochet
DC: Double Crochet
SK: Skip
ST: Stitch
FO: Fasten Off
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Important Pattern Notes

About the Stitch:
The main stitch used in this cardigan is called "the colosseum stitch." Below is a
brief explanation on this stitch. Please note: you will turn after each row for all
parts of this pattern. (Back panel, front panels, and sleeves.)

Fig A:

1. First you will start with an odd

number chain.
2. CH 1 and SC into the second CH from
hook. SC across. You should still have
Fig B:
an odd number.

3. CH 1, turn, and DC into first stitch.

CH 1, skip a stitch, and DC into next
(Fig. A)

4. CH 1, turn, SC across into each DC

and into the CH 1 space. (Fig. B)
Fig C:
And you will repeat those steps. This is
the main pattern that will make up most
of the cardigan! (Fig. C)
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Important Pattern Notes

About the Sizing:
This pattern is fully made to measure. This way you will be able to fully customize it
to yourself rather than following a size guide. Grab a tape measure and write down
these measurements for your cardigan.

Length of Back Panel:

To get the back panel length, measure from your shoulder to back of your calves.
(or to desired length) You will use that measurement to create your starting chain.

Width of Back Panel:

Measure from bicep to bicep while holding your arms out like a "T" shape. This
measurement will help determine how wide to create your cardigan.

Front Panels:
You will be using the same length measurement as your back panel.

Sleeve Width:
Holding your arm out straight to the side, measure from the top of your bicep to
the bottom going down. Then double that number. For example, if your bicep is 4
inches tall, then you will end up with 8 inches as your measurement.

Sleeve Length:
Measure from the middle of your bicep down to the middle of your hand. (Or
desired length) This will determine how long your sleeves will be
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Making the Back Panel
To start your project you will measure from the top of your shoulder to back of
your calves. (or desired length) This will be how long you'd like your cardigan to
be. With that measurement, CH any odd number to match your measurement. We
must start with an odd number so that way when we do the mesh later on, we will
have the appropriate amount of stitches.

Please note: The DC rows (Rows 6-10) allow for that extra oversized look. If you
have a tight tension, be careful when doing the SC rows before and after rows 6-
10 because this may make those rows a little wavy. However, if your DC rows do
become wavy, this should go away once you block your cardigan.

Once you have your starting CH, follow the instructions below:
R1- CH 1, and DC into the second CH from hook. Then DC across.
R2: CH 1, and DC across.
R3: CH 1, and SC across
We will now start the "Colosseum Stitch"
R4: CH 1, DC into first ST. Ch 1, SK next ST. Then DC into next ST. Repeat this for
the whole row. Your last stitch should end with a DC.
R5: CH 1, SC in each DC and CH space across.
*Repeat rows 4 & 5 until your back panel reaches half of your "width of back panel
measurement". (see page 5) It should reach to about the middle of your back.*
R6-10: CH 1, and do 5 rows of DC
R11: CH 1, and SC across
We will now start the "Colosseum Stitch" again
R12: CH 1, DC into first ST. Ch 1, SK next ST. Then DC into next ST. Repeat this for
the whole row.
R 13: CH 1, SC across
Repeat rows 12 & 13 until you have the same amount of mesh boxes on each side.
R14: CH 1, DC across
R15: CH 1, DC across
You can now FO and sew in your ends.
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Making the Front Panels

(MAKE 2)
Start by CH the same amount as you did for the back panel.

R1: CH 1, and DC into the second CH from hook. Then DC across.

R2: CH 1, and DC across
R3: CH 1 and SC across
R4: CH 1, DC into first ST. Ch 1, SK next ST. Then DC into next ST. Repeat this for
the whole row.
R5: CH 1 and SC in each DC and CH space across.
Repeat rows 4 & 5 until your front panel has the same number of mesh boxes that
each side of the back panel had. It will be about half the size of your back panel,
not including the 5 DC rows you did in the middle of the back panel. If you have a
larger bust you may have to add a few inches for your front panels.
FO and leave long tail for sewing

Here is what your project should be looking like so far with 2 front panels placed
on top of the back panel:
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Sleeves

(MAKE 2)

For the sleeve width - measure the size of your bicep and double that number.
(For example if your bicep is 4 inches in width you will make a chain of odd
numbers approximately 8 inches long)

For the sleeve length - Measure from the middle of your bicep down to the middle
of your hand. (Or desired length) This will determine how long your sleeves will be

Once you have made your starting CH of an odd number follow below:

R1: CH 1, and SC into the second CH from hook. Then SC in each chain across.
We will now start the Colosseum Stitch
R2: CH 1, DC into first ST. Ch 1, SK next ST. Then DC into next ST. Repeat this for
the whole row.
R3: CH 1 and SC across
Repeat R2 & R3 until your sleeve reaches the desired length.
FO and leave long tail for sewing.
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Assembly
Now that you have your back panel, 2 front panels, and 2 sleeves we can start
assembling your cardigan.

Sleeves:
Fold in half length wise. Then sew the sides together and set aside.

Front and Back Panel:

Step 1: Take 1 of your front panels, and sew the top portion where your shoulders
will be to the top of your main panel. Do this for both front panels. (Fig. A)
Step 2: Now that you have your front panels sewn at the shoulder area you can
line your sleeves up to the side, and sew them on. (Fig. B)
Step 3: Once you have your sleeves sewn, take your tape measure and a stitch
marker and measure about 7 inches from the bottom. Place your stitch marker.
That way you know where to stop sewing if you want a slit in the side. (Fig. C)
Step 4: You can now sew sides down from the sleeves to the stitch marker you just
placed to sew up the sides. Sew in your ends and you are finished! (Fig. D)
Fig. A: Fig. B: Fig. C:

Fig. D:
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Tester Appreciation
Huge thank you to all of these amazing testers who helped me
make sure this pattern was successful! Please check out all
these amazing folks and give them some love! :)

sarahsknittygritty jesslovesyarn _boots_trinkets_

mamakasskrochet thriftypolished
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Tester Appreciation

hookedme yarnxriot

hippiedipcreations gothgrandma27