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10-11 True Metallic Metal
10-11 True Metallic Metal
10-11 True Metallic Metal
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How to Paint with True Metallics (TMM)
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Metallic paints are awesome! They actually shine under the
light. To get the most out of them, we need to learn to control
where and when they shine. Here are a list of colors as well as
the miniature itself if you would like to try the techniques on it.
A • Aaron Lovejoy: The White Knight from RN Estudios
A • Raphael 8404 Size 1 Paint Brush
R • Craft Brush Size 8
• Masterson Wet Pallete
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• Vallejo Model Air: Aluminum or Chrome
N • RMS: Shadowed Steel
• RMS HD: HD Solid Black
L • Citadel: Rhinox Hide
O • Citadel: Mournfang Brown
V • Citadel: Auric Armour Gold
E • Army Painters: Loot Gold
J • Citadel: Gehenna’s Gold (alternate for Loot Gold)
O • Citadel: P3: Coal Black
Y • Citadel: Liquitex: Phthalo Green/Blue Shade Ink
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For effective shadows, I always start
with a dark version of my metallic
paint. In this video I used a black and
A Shadowed Steel mix for my initial
A shadows. Further shadowing was
R done by glazing opaque colors. The P3
Coal Black and RMS HD Solid Black
O came in really handy at darkening
N those shadows. This is to try to take
out as much of the metallic pigment
from the shadows as possible, since
L we are relying on light to shine off of
our mid-tone and highlight colors.
O Making opaque shadows will help you
V control how the metallic areas reflect
light.
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Edge highlighting is very important. We need
that glimmer of light in the highlight areas as
well as in the shadow areas. This helps
A further sell the “shiny” nature of the
metallics. Vallejo Model Air Aluminum and
A Chrome work great for these edge highlights!
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O Also, be careful not to highlight every edge.
V This looks wrong too. It also takes a ton of
time. Edge highlighting will fade in and out
E based on the contours of the armor. Pay
J attention to what looks good and bad when
you edge highlight. This will help you make
O better choices in the future.
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When working with metallic paints, remember that your highlights will be more
Zenithal in nature than, say, Non Metallic Metal (NMM). The reason for this, is
that True Metallics reflect light. At this small scale, they typically look best with
Zenithal light.
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E True Metallics: Note the Non Metallics: Here I placed the
J highlight is more towards the light about 1/3rd down the
top of his headdress.
O headdress.
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Light source
On rounded objects, however, I put the light a coming from
little bit forward. The same way I would on this direction.
NMM. I also try to be true to my light source.
The light is on the left hand side of the body
A which adjusts how the light is viewed on this
particular mini. Light source
A coming from
R this direction.
Notice the
O light is slightly
N forward on
the left arm.
Notice the Just like the
L light is slightly shoulder pad.
forward and
O not directly on
V top. This is a
Notice how the light changes on the gold
characteristic
E of metal. rings around his arms based on the direction
J of the light source. The left arm reflects
differently from the right arm. It is more on
O The light is adjusted on this shoulder pad top.
Y based on the direction the light is coming https://www.patreon.com/miniaturemonthly
from.
In this image, you can see where I used
browns and blacks to shadow areas of
A Angron’s gold armor. The colors used were
A Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, and HD Solid
Black. You can also add colors like P3’s Coal
R Black, Sanguine Base, or even Cryx Bane Base
O to your darkest shades. A dark purple is also
N an option for shading gold.
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Here are some color combos I use for Metallic Gold:
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