Pretty as a picture and twice as nice! Perfect for a newborn photo shoot!

Instructions are given for 35cm (14”) hat circumference with a length of 5” (adjustable). Pattern is
worked top down unlike the original fairy pattern.

You will need: Up to 200m DK yarn in MC and a small amount in green for the calyx, a 3.00mm
hook, a stitch marker and a needle for neatening ends.

Please note, stitches need to be tight in order for the petals to curl.

Gauge: 8sts and between 4 and 5 rows to 2” measured over trebles.

© Thomasina Cummings 2013, All Rights Reserved 1

This pattern is written in UK terms. Below are the US equivalents as applicable.

UK Abbreviation UK Term US Abbreviation US Term

bptr back post treble bpdc back post double crochet
CC contrasting colour
ch chain
dc double crochet sc single crochet
fptr front post treble fpdc front post double crochet
htr half treble hdc half double crochet
MC main colour
miss miss skip skip
rnd(s) round(s)
sp(s) space(s)
ss slip stitch sl st slip stitch
st(s) stitch(es)
tr treble dc double crochet
tr2tog work 2tr together dc2tog work 2dc together

Special Stitches/Methods

fptr (US fpdc): work the treble as usual but insert the hook from
front to back around the stem of the stitch (right to left) instead of
into the top of the stitch.

bptr (US bpdc): work the treble as usual but insert the hook from
back to front around the stem of the stitch (right to left) instead of
into the top of the stitch.

tr2tog: *yrh, insert hook into (or around stem of) next st as directed, yrh and pull through a loop, yrh
and pull through 2 loops, rep from *, yrh and pull through 3 loops on hook.

Note: As you work the pattern, you will come across bold abbreviations for sp(s) and st(s).
This will usually occur whenever a change in method is made. Pay close attention to the
wording to see if stitches are worked in the space (sp) between the stitches or if they are
worked normally in to the actual stitch (st).

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Note: Hat begins at calyx. The beginning of the calyx is worked in rounds that spiral, i.e.
they do not join.

In CC (green), commence with 2ch.

Rnd 1: 5dc in 2nd ch from hook - 5sts.

Rnd 2: 1dc in each st around - 5sts.

Rnds 3-5: As Rnd 2.

Rnds will be joined from this point forward. Mark this round with a stitch marker so that you
can easily locate the position to measure from later.

Rnd 6: 2ch - counts as 1htr, 1tr in same place as the final dc on the previous row, 2tr in
each of next 4sts, work a further 2tr in the last st, ss to top of 2ch to join - 12sts.
Rnd 7: 3ch, 1tr in same place, (1fptr around stem of next st, 2tr in next st) 5 times, 1fptr
around stem of last st, ss to top of 3ch to join - 18sts.
Rnd 8: 1dc in next sp, 2ch, 1tr in next sp, (1fptr around stem of next st, 1tr in each of next
3sps) 5 times, 1fptr around stem of next st, 1tr in next sp, ss to top of 2ch to join -
24sts.
Rnd 9: 1dc in next sp, 2ch, - both sts combined count as 1tr, 1tr in next sp, (1fptr around
stem of next st, 1tr in each of next 4sps ) 5 times, 1fptr around stem of next st, 1tr in
each of next 2sps, ss to top of 2ch to join - 30sts.
Rnd 10: Slip stitch forward to top of fptr, (miss next 2sts, 7tr in sp immediately before next
tr, ss to top of next fptr) 6 times, join MC in final ss, fasten off CC when convenient
- 42sts (6 shells) - approximately 10 cm (4”) petal tip to opposite petal tip when
flattened.
Important information for the rnds that follow:
The 2ch at the beginning of each rnd is to bring the hook to height only and is not counted in
the stitch count.
The fptr are worked normally on the outside of the hat and will line up with, and be made
around, the previous rnds fptr.

When instructed to join, at the end of the rnd, ignore the beginning 2ch and ss around the top
of the first fptr instead.
Rnd 11: 2ch, (1fptr around stem of next fptr, working behind the shell into Rnd 9, 3tr in the
back loop of the next tr, miss next tr, miss base of shell, miss next tr, 3tr in the back
loop of the st immediately before next fptr) 6 times, join - 42sts.

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In the rounds that follow you will be keeping the fptr lined up and increasing the number of tr
in each ‘section’ by working in the spaces between the sts of the previous rnd.
Rnd 12: 2ch, (1fptr around stem of fptr, always starting in the sp that immediately follows
the tr work 1tr in each of next 7sps) 6 times, join - 48sts.

Rnd 13: 2ch, (1fptr around stem of fptr, 1tr in each of next 8sps) 6 times, join - 54sts.
Proceed to Body.

Body

Rnd 1: 2ch, (1fptr around stem of fptr, 1tr in each of next 8sts - note the change to sts) 6
times, join - 54sts.

Repeat Rnd 1 of body until hat measures 5” from the marker in Row 6. You may find it easier to
measure the hat flattened. The length may be adjusted here if desired. Fasten off and neaten ends.

Proceed to petals.

Petals

Each petal is worked across half the stitches of one section, around the fptr and across half the stitches
of the next section so that the raised seam runs down the centre of each petal.

The raised seam will now switch from RS to WS for cosmetic appearance.

With RS of had facing towards you, still working away from calyx as before, re-join MC yarn halfway
across next section 4sts before the fptr.

Row 1: 3ch - counts as 1tr in this and following rows, tr2tog over next 2sts, 1tr in next st, 1bptr
around stem of next st - remember seam switches sides, 1tr in next st, tr2tog over next 2sts,
1tr in next st, turn - 7sts.
Row 2: 3ch, tr2tog over next 2sts, 1fptr around stem of next st, tr2tog over next 2sts, 1tr in next st,
turn - 5sts.
Row 3: 2ch, 1tr in next st - together count as tr2tog, 1bptr around stem of next st, tr2tog over next
2sts, turn - 3sts.
Row 4: 2ch, tr2tog over next 2sts working first part of stitch around post as appropriate to keep
shaping consistent.

Fasten off and repeat for remaining five petals and proceed to edging. You may prefer not to finish
off after final petal to reduce the number of ends to be neatened.

Edging

With WS of work facing towards you, edge each petal (and thus the entire hat) with 2dc worked
around the stem of each end-of-row treble, ss to first dc to join. Keep tension tight in order to achieve
the desired curl in the petals - try a smaller hook if you find this difficult. Do not be tempted to add an
extra dc at the tip of the petal for shaping; this is required for curling. Fasten off, neaten ends and
shape with fingers. If, over time, the curl in the petals begins to droop, dampen the petals with water,
roll tightly upwards and pin in place to dry. When pin is removed, the curl should have returned.

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