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 ŒUFS AU PLAT.

A pewter or any other metal plate or dish which will bear the fire,
must be used for these. Just melt a slice of butter in it, then put in
some very fresh eggs broken as for poaching; strew a little pepper
and salt on the top of each, and place them over a gentle fire until
the whites are quite set, but keep them free from colour.
This is a very common mode of preparing eggs on the continent;
but there is generally a slight rawness of the surface of the yolks
which is in a measure removed by ladling the boiling butter over
them with a spoon as they are cooking, though a salamander held
above them for a minute would have a better effect. Four or five
minutes will dress them.
Obs.—We hope for an opportunity of inserting further receipts for
dishes of eggs at the end of this volume.
 MILK AND CREAM.

Without possessing a dairy, it is quite possible for families to have

always a sufficient provision of milk and cream for their consumption,
provided there be a clean cool larder or pantry where it can be kept.
It should be taken from persons who can be depended on for
supplying it pure, and if it can be obtained from a dairy near at hand
it will be an advantage, as in the summer it is less easy to preserve it
sweet when it has been conveyed from a distance. It should be
poured at once into well-scalded pans or basins kept exclusively for
it, and placed on a very clean and airy shelf, apart from all the other
contents of the larder. The fresh milk as it comes in should be set at
one end of the shelf, and that for use should be taken from the other,
so that none may become stale from being misplaced or overlooked.
The cream should be removed with a perforated skimmer (or
skimming-dish as it is called in dairy-counties) which has been
dipped into cold water to prevent the cream, when thick, from
adhering to it. Twelve hours in summer, and twenty-four in winter, will
be sufficient time for the milk to stand for “creaming,” though it may
often be kept longer with advantage. Between two and three pints of
really good milk will produce about a quarter of a pint of cream. In
frosty weather the pans for it should be warmed before it is poured
in. If boiled when first brought in, it will remain sweet much longer
than it otherwise would; but it will then be unfit to serve with tea;
though it may be heated afresh and sent to table with coffee; and
used also for puddings, and all other varieties of milk-diet.
 DEVONSHIRE, OR CLOTTED CREAM.

From the mode adopted in Devonshire, and in some other

counties, of scalding the milk in the following manner, the cream
becomes very rich and thick, and is easily converted into excellent
butter. It is strained into large shallow metal pans as soon as it is
brought into the dairy and left for twelve hours at least in summer,
and thirty-six in cold weather. It is then gently carried to a hot plate—
heated by a fire from below—and brought slowly to a quite scalding
heat but without being allowed to boil or even to simmer. When it is
ready to be removed, distinct rings appear on the surface, and small
bubbles of air. It must then be carried carefully back to the dairy, and
may be skimmed in twelve hours afterwards. The cream should be
well drained from the milk—which will be very poor—as this is done.
It may then be converted into excellent butter, merely by beating it
with the hand in a shallow wooden tub, which is, we are informed,
the usual manner of making it in small Devonshire dairies.
 DU LAIT A MADAME.

Boil a quart of new milk, and let it cool sufficiently to allow the
cream to be taken off; then rinse an earthen jar well in every part
with buttermilk, and while the boiled milk is still rather warm, pour it
in and add the cream gently on the top. Let it remain twenty-four
hours, turn it into a deep dish, mix it with pounded sugar, and it will
be ready to serve. This preparation is much eaten abroad during the
summer, and is considered very wholesome. The milk, by the
foregoing process, becomes a very soft curd, slightly, but not at all
unpleasantly, acid in flavour. A cover, or thick folded cloth, should be
placed on the jar after the milk is poured in, and it should be kept in a
moderately warm place. In very sultry weather less time may be
allowed for the milk to stand.
Obs.—We give this and the following receipt from an unpublished
work which we have in progress, being always desirous to make
such information as we possess generally useful as far as we can.
 CURDS AND WHEY.

Rennet is generally prepared for dairy-use by butchers, and kept

in farmhouses hung in the chimney corners, where it will remain
good a long time. It is the inner stomach of the calf, from which the
curd is removed, and which is salted and stretched out to dry on
splinters of wood, or strong wooden skewers. It should be preserved
from dust and smoke (by a paper-bag or other means), and portions
of it cut off as wanted. Soak a small bit in half a teacupful of warm
water, and let it remain in it for an hour or two; then pour into a quart
of warm new milk a dessertspoonful of the rennet-liquor, and keep it
in a warm place until the whey appears separated from the curd, and
looks clear. The smaller the proportion of rennet used, the more soft
and delicate will be the curd. We write these directions from
recollection, having often had the dish thus prepared, but having no
memorandum at this moment of the precise proportions used. Less
than an inch square of the rennet would be sufficient, we think, for a
gallon of milk, if some hours were allowed for it to turn. When rennet-
whey, which is a most valuable beverage in many cases of illness, is
required for an invalid to drink, a bit of the rennet, after being quickly
and slightly rinsed, may be stirred at once into the warm milk, as the
curd becoming hard is then of no consequence. It must be kept
warm until the whey appears and is clear. It may then be strained,
and given to the patient to drink, or allowed to become cold before it
is taken. In feverish complaints it has often the most benign effect.
Devonshire junket is merely a dish or bowl of sweetened curds
and whey, covered with the thick cream of scalded milk, for which
see page 451.
 CHAPTER XXIII.

Sweet Dishes, or Entremets.

Jelly of two colours, with macedoire of fruit.

 TO PREPARE CALF’S FEET STOCK.

The feet are usually sent in from

the butcher’s ready to be
dressed, but as they are sold at
a very much cheaper rate when
the hair has not been cleared
from them, and as they may
then be depended on for
supplying the utmost amount of
nutriment which they contain, it
is often desirable to have them
White and Rose-coloured Jelly.
altogether prepared by the cook.
In former editions of this work
we directed that they should be “dipped into cold water, and
sprinkled with resin in fine powder; then covered with boiling water
and left for a minute or two untouched before they were scraped;”
and this method we had followed with entire success for a long time,
but we afterwards discovered that the resin was not necessary, and
that the feet could be quite as well prepared by mere scalding, or
being laid into water at the point of boiling, and kept in it for a few
minutes by the side of the fire. The hair, as we have already stated in
the first pages of Chapter IX. (Veal), must be very closely scraped
from them with a blunt-edged knife; and the hoofs must be removed
by being struck sharply down against the edge of a strong table or
sink, the leg-bone being held tightly in the hand. The feet must be
afterwards washed delicately clean before they are further used.
When this has been done, divide them at the joint, split the claws,
and take away the fat that is between them. Should the feet be large,
put a gallon of cold water to the four, but from a pint to a quart less if
they be of moderate size or small. Boil them gently down until the
flesh has parted entirely from the bones, and the liquor is reduced
nearly or quite half; strain, and let it stand until cold; remove every
particle of fat from the top before it is used, and be careful not to take
the sediment.
Calf’s feet (large), 4; water, 1 gallon: 6 to 7 hours.
 TO CLARIFY CALF’S FEET STOCK.

Break up a quart of the stock, put it into a clean stewpan with the
whites of five large or of six small eggs, two ounces of sugar, and the
strained juice of a small lemon; place it over a gentle fire, and do not
stir it after the scum begins to form; when it has boiled five or six
minutes, if the liquid part be clear, turn it into a jelly-bag, and pass it
through a second time should it not be perfectly transparent the first.
To consumptive patients, and others requiring restoratives, but
forbidden to take stimulants, the jelly thus prepared is often very
acceptable, and may be taken with impunity, when it would be highly
injurious made with wine. More white of egg is required to clarify it
than when sugar and acid are used in larger quantities, as both of
these assist the process. For blanc-mange omit the lemon-juice, and
mix with the clarified stock an equal proportion of cream (for an
invalid, new milk), with the usual flavouring, and weight of sugar; or
pour the boiling stock very gradually to some finely pounded
almonds, and express it from them as directed for Quince Blamange,
allowing from six to eight ounces to the pint.
Stock, 1 quart; whites of eggs, 5; sugar, 2 oz.; juice, 1 small
lemon: 5 to 8 minutes.
 TO CLARIFY ISINGLASS.

The finely-cut purified isinglass, which is now in general use,

requires no clarifying except for clear jellies: for all other dishes it is
sufficient to dissolve, skim, and pass it through a muslin strainer.
When two ounces are required for a dish, put two and a half into a
delicately clean pan, and pour on it a pint of spring water which has
been gradually mixed with a teaspoonful of beaten white of egg; stir
these thoroughly together, and let them heat slowly by the side of a
gentle fire, but do not allow the isinglass to stick to the pan. When
the scum is well risen, which it will be after two or three minutes’
simmering, clear it off, and continue the skimming until no more
appears; then, should the quantity of liquid be more than is needed,
reduce it by quick boiling to the proper point, strain it through a thin
muslin, and set it by for use: it will be perfectly transparent, and may
be mixed lukewarm with the clear and ready sweetened juice of
various fruits, or used with the necessary proportion of syrup, for
jellies flavoured with choice liqueurs. As the clarifying reduces the
strength of the isinglass—or rather as a portion of it is taken up by
the white of egg—an additional quarter to each ounce must be
allowed for this: if the scum be laid to drain on the back of a fine
sieve which has been wetted with hot water, a little very strong jelly
will drip from it.
Isinglass, 2-1/2 oz.; water, 1 pint; beaten white of egg, 1
teaspoonful.
Obs.—At many Italian warehouses a preparation is now sold
under the name of isinglass, which appears to us to be highly
purified gelatine of some other kind. It is converted without trouble
into a very transparent jelly, is free from flavour, and is less
expensive than the genuine Russian isinglass; but when taken for
any length of time as a restorative, its different nature becomes
perceptible. It answers well for the table occasionally; but it is not
suited to invalids.
 SPINACH GREEN, FOR COLOURING SWEET DISHES,
CONFECTIONARY, OR SOUPS.

Pound quite to a pulp, in a marble or Wedgwood mortar, a handful

or two of young freshly-gathered spinach, then throw it into a hair
sieve, and press through all the juice which can be obtained from it;
pour this into a clean white jar, and place it in a pan of water that is
at the point of boiling, and which must be allowed only to just simmer
afterwards; in three or four minutes the juice will be poached or set:
take it then gently with a spoon, and lay it upon the back of a fine
sieve to drain. If wanted for immediate use, merely mix it in the
mortar with some finely-powdered sugar;[158] but if to be kept as a
store, pound it with as much as will render the whole tolerably dry,
boil it to candy-height over a very clear fire, pour it out in cakes, and
keep them in a tin box or canister. For this last preparation consult
the receipt for orange-flower candy.
158. For soup, dilute it first with a little of the boiling stock, and stir it to the
remainder.
 PREPARED APPLE OR QUINCE JUICE.

Pour into a clean earthen pan two quarts of spring water, and
throw into it as quickly as they can be pared, quartered, and
weighed, four pounds of nonsuches, pearmains, Ripstone pippins, or
any other good boiling apples of fine flavour. When all are done,
stew them gently until they are well broken, but not reduced quite to
pulp; turn them into a jelly-bag, or strain the juice from them without
pressure through a closely-woven cloth, which should be gathered
over the fruit, and tied, and suspended above a deep pan until the
juice ceases to drop from it: this, if not very clear, must be rendered
so before it is used for syrup or jelly, but for all other purposes once
straining it will be sufficient. Quinces are prepared in the same way,
and with the same proportions of fruit and water, but they must not
be too long boiled, or the juice will become red. We have found it
answer well to have them simmered until they are perfectly tender,
and then to leave them with their liquor in a bowl until the following
day, when the juice will be rich and clear. They should be thrown into
the water very quickly after they are pared and weighed, as the air
will soon discolour them. The juice will form a jelly much more easily
if the cores and pips be left in the fruit.
Water, 2 quarts; apples or quinces, 4 lbs.
 COCOA-NUT FLAVOURED MILK.

(For sweet dishes, &c.)

Pare the dark outer rind from a very fresh nut, and grate it on a
fine and exceedingly clean grater, to every three ounces pour a quart
of new milk, and simmer them very softly for three quarters of an
hour, or more, that a full flavour of the nut may be imparted to the
milk without its being much reduced: strain it through a fine sieve, or
cloth, with sufficient pressure to leave the nut almost dry: it may then
be used for blanc-mange, custards, rice, and other puddings, light
cakes and bread.
To each quart new milk, 3 oz. grated cocoa-nut: 3/4 to 1 hour.
Obs.—The milk of the nut when perfectly sweet and good, may be
added to the other with advantage. To obtain it, bore one end of the
shell with a gimlet, and catch the liquid in a cup; and to extricate the
kernel, break the shell with a hammer; this is better than sawing it
asunder.
 COMPÔTES OF FRUIT.

(Or Fruit stewed in Syrup.)

We would especially recommend these delicate and very
agreeable preparations for trial to such of our readers as may be
unacquainted with them, as well as to those who may have a
distaste to the common “stewed fruit” of English cookery. If well
made they are peculiarly delicious and refreshing, preserving the
pure flavour of the fruit of which they are composed; while its acidity
is much softened by the small quantity of water added to form the
syrup in which it is boiled. They are also more economical than tarts
or puddings, and infinitely more wholesome. In the second course
pastry-crust can always be served with them, if desired, in the form
of ready baked leaves, round cakes, or any more fanciful shapes; or
a border of these may be fastened with a little white of egg and flour
round the edge of the dish in which the compôte is served; but rice,
or macaroni simply boiled, or a very plain pudding is a more usual
accompaniment.
Compôtes will remain good for two or three days in a cool store-
room, or somewhat longer, if gently boiled up for an instant a second
time; but they contain generally too small a proportion of sugar to
preserve them from mould or fermentation for many days. The syrup
should be enriched with a larger quantity when they are intended for
the desserts of formal dinners, as it will increase the transparency of
the fruit: the juice is always beautifully clear when the compôtes are
carefully prepared. They should be served in glass dishes, or in
compôtiers, which are of a form adapted to them.
Compôte of spring fruit.—(Rhubarb). Take a pound of the stalks
after they are pared, and cut them into short lengths; have ready a
quarter of a pint of water boiled gently for ten minutes with five
ounces of sugar, or with six should the fruit be very acid; put it in,
and simmer it for about ten minutes. Some kinds will be tender in
rather less time, some will require more.
 Obs.—Good sugar in lumps should be used for these dishes.
Lisbon sugar will answer for them very well on ordinary occasions,
but that which is refined will render them much more delicate.
Compôte of green currants.—Spring water, half-pint; sugar, five
ounces; boiled together ten minutes. One pint of green currants
stripped from the stalks; simmered five minutes.
Compôte of green gooseberries.—This is an excellent compôte if
made with fine sugar, and very good with any kind. Break five
ounces into small lumps and pour on them half a pint of water; boil
these gently for ten minutes, and clear off all the scum; then add to
them a pint of fresh gooseberries freed from the tops and stalks,
washed, and well drained. Simmer them gently from eight to ten
minutes, and serve them hot or cold. Increase the quantity for a large
dish.
Compôte of green apricots.—Wipe the down from a pound of quite
young apricots, and stew them very gently for nearly twenty minutes
in syrup made with eight ounces of sugar and three-quarters of a pint
of water, boiled together the usual time.
Compôte of red currants.—A quarter of a pint of water and five
ounces of sugar: ten minutes. One pint of currants freed from the
stalks to be just simmered in the syrup from five to seven minutes.
This receipt will serve equally for raspberries, or for a compôte of the
two fruits mixed together. Either of them will be found an admirable
accompaniment to a pudding of batter, custard, bread, or ground
rice, and also to various other kinds of puddings, as well as to whole
rice plainly boiled.
Compôte of Kentish or Flemish cherries.—Simmer five ounces of
sugar with half a pint of water for ten minutes; throw into the syrup a
pound of cherries weighed after they are stalked, and let them stew
gently for twenty minutes: it is a great improvement to stone the fruit,
but a larger quantity will then be required for a dish.
Compôte of Morella cherries.—Boil together for fifteen minutes, six
ounces of sugar with half a pint of water; add a pound and a quarter
of ripe Morella cherries, and simmer them very softly from five to
seven minutes: this is a delicious compôte. A larger proportion of
sugar will often be required for it, as the fruit is very acid in some
seasons, and when it is not fully ripe.
Compôte of damsons.—Four ounces of sugar and half a pint of
water to be boiled for ten minutes; one pound of damsons to be
added, and simmered gently from ten to twelve minutes.
Compôte of the green magnum-bonum or Mogul plum.—The
green Mogul plums are often brought abundantly into the market
when the fruit is thinned from the trees, and they make admirable
tarts or compôtes, possessing the fine slight bitter flavour of the
unripe apricot, to which they are quite equal. Measure a pint of the
plums without their stalks, and wash them very clean; then throw
them into a syrup made with seven ounces of sugar in lumps, and
half a pint of water, boiled together for eight or ten minutes. Give the
plums one quick boil, and then let them stew quite softly for about
five minutes, or until they are tender, which occasionally will be in
less time even. Take off the scum, and serve the compôte hot or
cold.
Compôte of the magnum-bonum, or other large plums.—Boil six
ounces of sugar with half a pint of water the usual time; take the
stalks from a pound of plums, and simmer them very softly for twenty
minutes. Increase the proportion of sugar if needed, and regulate the
time as may be necessary for the different varieties of fruit.
Compôte of bullaces.—The large, or shepherds’ bullace, is very
good stewed, but will require a considerable portion of sugar to
render it palatable, unless it be quite ripe. Make a syrup with half a
pound of sugar, and three-quarters of a pint of water, and boil in it
gently from fifteen to twenty minutes, a pint and a half of the bullaces
freed from their stalks.
Compôte of Siberian crabs.—To three-quarters of a pint of water
add six ounces of fine sugar, boil them for ten or twelve minutes, and
skim them well. Add a pound and a half of Siberian crabs without
their stalks, and keep them just at the point of boiling for twenty
minutes; they will then become tender without bursting. A few strips
of lemon-rind and a little of the juice are sometimes added to this
compôte.
 Obs.—In a dry warm summer, when fruit ripens freely, and is rich
in quality, the proportion of sugar directed for these compôtes would
generally be found sufficient; but in a cold or wet season it would
certainly, in many instances, require to be increased. The present
slight difference in the cost of sugars, renders it a poor economy to
use the raw for dishes of this class, instead of that which is well
refined. To make a clear syrup it should be broken into lumps, not
crushed to powder. Almost every kind of fruit may be converted into
a good compôte.
 COMPÔTE OF PEACHES.

Pare half a dozen ripe peaches, and stew them very softly from
eighteen to twenty minutes, keeping them often turned in a light
syrup, made with five ounces of sugar, and half a pint of water boiled
together for ten minutes. Dish the fruit; reduce the syrup by quick
boiling, pour it over the peaches, and serve them hot for a second-
course dish, or cold for rice-crust. They should be quite ripe, and will
be found delicious dressed thus. A little lemon-juice may be added to
the syrup, and the blanched kernels of two or three peach or apricot
stones.
Sugar, 5 oz.; water, 1/2 pint: 10 minutes. Peaches, 6: 18 to 20
minutes.
Obs.—Nectarines, without being pared, may be dressed in the
same way, but will require to be stewed somewhat longer, unless
they be quite ripe.
 ANOTHER RECEIPT FOR STEWED PEACHES.

Should the fruit be not perfectly ripe, throw it into boiling water and
keep it just simmering, until the skin can be easily stripped off. Have
ready half a pound of fine sugar boiled to a light syrup with three-
quarters of a pint of water; throw in the peaches, let them stew softly
until quite tender, and turn them often that they may be equally done;
after they are dished, add a little strained lemon-juice to the syrup,
and reduce it by a few minutes’ very quick boiling. The fruit is
sometimes pared, divided, and stoned, then gently stewed until it is
tender.
Sugar, 8 oz.; water, 3/4 pint: 10 to 12 minutes. Peaches, 6 or 7;
lemon-juice, 1 large teaspoonful.