Kenmore 117.552 Sewing Machine Instruction Manual

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The Object of This Book
Cet’tijficate cjf iatantee — is In provide you with complete directions for
operating this sewing machine. We are extremely
We guarantee to the original purchaser the sew anxious that your investment in this machine re
ing head of this machine when used for normal
family use to be free from defects in material turns the utmost in satisfactory service. Therefore
and workmanship for a period of twenty years you are urged to read this book carefully and thor
from date of purchase. In the event that working oughly iii order to familiarize yourself with the
parts prove to be defective in material or work operation of this sewing machine, even though you
manship, they will be replaced free of charge if tony be accustomed to using some other make.
the machine is returned to the nearest Sears
or Simpsons-Sears retail or mail order store. In
returning to a mail order store, be sure and pack
securely. (Needles, belts, bobbins, shuttles, bulbs, To Install Sewing Machine Head
or parts which wear out from natural use are ex
cluded from the guarantee.) On Cabinet
We further guarantee all electrical equipment to luee the head on top of open cabinet and slide
be free from defects for a period of one year from
date of purchase. head hinge lug holes (Fig. 2) over round shanks of
When referring to this guarantee or when writ the two hinges attached to back of cut-out in top of
ing us about your machine, always mention the cabinet. Tip head back and tighten head hinge set
model number. screws (Fig. 2) securely.
We do not authorize any person or representative
to make any other guarantee or to assume for us Pull bushing up on motor cord as near to the
any liability in connection with the sale of this motor as possible and slip motor cord into slot at
sewing machine other than those contained here
in. Any agreements outside or contradictory to edge of bed plate and push bushing back into hole
the foregoing shall be void and of no effect. in bed plate (see Fig. 9). Unwind the extension
For ready reference record the number of your cord inside the cabinet, plug into any base plug
machine on this page. outlet, and the machine is ready for operation.
Model No. Read Serial No. If machine is treadle operated, merely place
leather belt around hand wheel drive pulley as of
course there is no motor or electrical connections.
Cabinet Model No. Date Delivered
IMPORTANT

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO. GIVE PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO IMPOR


ond SIMPSONS-SEARS LIMITED TANT INFORMATION ON PAGES 11 AND 12.

a e

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Oiling ‘ oil the
works underneath the bedplate, turn the I
oil to points as shown in Figure 2.
A sewing machine, like every other piece back and apply
of machinery On automatiC li-ft machines the thumb screw on the
needs oiling to insure easy running and to base of the arm must be taken out before
plate near theturned
prevent unneee back.
sary wear of the parts which bear upon each bead c&fl be
other.
Oil holes are provided in the arm of the
machine for
which cannot be directly reached. Parts

Depending on how frequently the machine


is used deter.
mines the oiling requirements. Moderate use
5 only
require
occasional drop of oil at the points indicated a
on the ilins.
trations shown.

r OILL
OIL
OIL
1
Figure 2

Cleaning Machine
IF THE MACHINE RUNS HARD it is due to lack
proper oiling of some bearings. Should the machine beco
gummed from long standing or poor oil, apply kerosene to
the bearings to remove the gum; then run the machine ri
idly wipe clean and OIL THOROUGHLY WITH GO
SE*ING MACHINE OIL before beginning to sew.
Occasionally place one drop of oil on tip of finger i
apply around outer rim of shuttle, race, and center
(C.P.) fig. 6.
hAND HOLE COVER PLATE
Be sure to use ONLY Kenmore Sewing Machine
Figure 1

Two Three

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Threading To Wind a Bobbin
The Machine,
Upper Thread (See Figure 5 Page 6)
on bobbin winder spindle as sha
(See Fig. 3) place the bobbin
wheel with the left hand and turn the top
Your machine ShoUld the hand
proper be i 1d
0
{
1 nut towards YOU. This will release the sew
the clutch of the machine. Next, place a spool of thr
POS1tjOfl for
by turning the hand threading
inecmsm pin located on bed of machine directly be]
(the top Of the wheel wh the spool
from you) so that tu fl wheel. Next, take the end of the thread and
the hand the tension plates on bobbin winder thread gui
,

up (5, Fig. 3) is at the take between


est point. its it thread upward into eye of guide, then run end
and nullthrough
Place a spool of thre hole “B in bobbin.
thread
the spool pin on top Engage the bobbin-wind er pulley with the hand wheel
arm. Hold the ena of the downward. Hold end of thread until
shin lever “C” sufficiently to wind the thread around I
thread in the left of the
hand be..
tween the first finger have rn machine times; then break thread off at hole “B’ a
thumb, then use the and bobbin several machine and bobbin winder viIl automatica
hand (first finger and right contin to run proper amount of thread is wound.
throw off when
-

to act as a tension thumb) wound and removed; tighten


thread, on the After the bobbin isthe top of it from you while holdi
nut by turning
Next, the thread clutch with your left hand.
pass under and in front should the hand wheel
machines proceed in the same mann
oak one (1), then under of On non.electriC
for operation is furnished by foot trea
in back of hook two (2). and except that power
Next, downward and
under point No. 3 from hook
to back. front
Next, pull the thread up
ward until it hooks into
spring eyelet No. 4.
Next, Continue upward i
to the hole in the takeup
lever (5) from back to front.
Next, downward and hook
thread into needle clamp
thread guide 6 from back to
front.
Next, into the eye of needle
from left to right as you face
Fgiire 3 the machine.
(See enlarged view of tension assembly on page 5) Enlarged view of tension assembly showing thread.
ing of auxiliary spring, as described on page 4.
Four Five

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OGLE
BOBBIN
BOBBIN CASE

WINDER 7x
u
CoNL
PULLEy SHUTTLE

xu

Threading the Bobbin Case


Hold bobbin case with thumb and first finger of let
hand, with tension tongue (4) upright. Then place flI1e
bobbin in cnse, starting thread into slot (1). Continue pull
ing thread U to end of slot (2); then across to bottom o:
If STOP SCREW slot (3) and upward until thread conies out at top of tensioz
tongue (4). Leave about two inches of thread projecting.
Caution— Note carefully the way the bobbin case N
threaded before removing bobbin or unthreading.
Sz Seven

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the Shuttle Race
To Draw Up Lower Thread Remove Shuttle from

While holding loosely in the left hand, the end of


thread extending through eye of needle (three or
inches), turn the top of hand wheel from :,OU OClcwiae)
with the right hand, until the needle goes all the way do
and cornea back up. The lower thread will fonn a loop °‘er
the thread you are holding and come up through the nee.fle
hole. Lead the ends of both threads back under the
foot, keeping the upper thread in presser foot slot.
Pigur. 8

To Remove the Bobbin Case from Shuttle the hand hole cover plate and tip head
First remove . Next, remove bobbin case as already ex
Turn hand wheel (clock. hinges
bACk on its turn the hand wheel (clockwise) until the
wise) until take-up (5, Fig. iained. Next, nele is just entering needle plate hole. Then
3) is at its highest point point of theend of latch G, shown in Fig. 8. This will release
Then remove the hand hole press rear race cover (Fig. 6)- so it may be readily removed
cover plate permitting YOU to the shuttle Pin H. Next, take hold of the center pin in
reach down to bobbin. from under Fig. 8) and it can be readily removed WITH
shuttle iCP,
Clasp the bobbin case with OUT FORCE.
the thumb and first finger of
your left hand as shown j To Replace the Shuttle
wheel until the point of the needle is just
Fig. 7. Then with the second Turn the hand plate hole. With the thumb and first
finger lift up on latch “s” entering the needle
left band, hold the shuttle by the center pin
and the bobbin case can be finger of the the centers of the slotted holes, directly
(CP, Fig. 8) otherso
readily removed. in the outer edge of the shuttle, are
opposite each the driving pins (DP). When properly
Follow the same procedure exactly in line with
lined U, the SHAR P point of shuttle will be almost directly
in replacing the bobbIn case of the arrow (S). It is imperative that the
in shuttle. over the tail ly placed in the race, and it must never be
huttle be
5 proper
positio n. When the shuttle is in position re
The hole in the center FORCED into cover by slipping the fork at left side
spindle inside the bottom case place shuttle race
push right side back over latch (G)
fits over the center pin of the under pin (H) and to its holding position.
which will snap back
gu shuttle, as shown in Fig. 6.
Eigkt Nine

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Regulating the Tensions To Regulate Stitch Length
Upper: (Forward and Backward With Stops)
t1 regu1at0
lever (Fig. 5, page 6) controls t1
When the presser foot lifter lever (Fig 3) phe for both forward and reverse.
tension on the upper thread is automatically released raised iength
tit,h positb0m of the stop screw (Fig. 5, page 6) regt
5
Ther he
fore, the presser foot must always be lowered When length of the stitch, forward and reverse, by lirnii
ing the upper tension. The tension regulator adju
lever j located iates themovement up and down of the stitch regulator leve:
the
on the face of machine (Fig. 3). To increc 5 tenaj 0 Push To Set the Stitch Length:
lever dow,ward. To decrease tension push lever U)iard Move the stitch
regulator lever until the desired numbe
The most satisfactory tension for ordinary sewing is Objfled window then turn the StOP screw to the righ
5
p pears in the to rest.
with pointer on this lever set between figures 2 and 3 011 comes
until itlong 85 the stop screw is not turned the length o
the
numbered gauge. As the same.
titch will remain
5 in reverse, move the lever down until it stops.
Lower: To sew forward, move the lever up again until it stops.
The small screw in center of the bobbin case (Fig. To sew and stop have been set for a short stitci
6) If the lever
regulates the tension on the lower thread. To increase . ngth such as No.stop 2, and the operator wishes to use a longe:
11
t the screw and set the stitch regulator tc
sion tighten the screw; to decrease tension, loosen it. titch, loosen
5 longer stitch as shown in the window in the platE
either event only turn this screw a little bit kt a time. the desired the stop screw as before until it comes to rest
Tension should be in balance to get best results then tightenlonger stitch will now result both forward an
— neat, The 5 ame
that number 4 is the longest reverse stitch
exible, accurate stitching. Experiment until your reverse, except
is balanced as follows: ‘ength.
If the upper thread is too tight, the upper thread will To Remove the Work
drawn straight on the top of the material, thus: The take-Up (5, Fig. 3) must be at its HIGHEST POINT
t
8 temptiflg to remove the work. Failure to do this will
before the thread and unthreading the needle.
result in breaking
Turn the hand wheel until the take-up (5, Fig. 3) is at
the presser foot with presser foot lever
its highest point, raise
If the lower thread is too tight, the lower thread will b.
-

and DRAW THE both FABRIC BACK about three inches in a


drawn straight on the bottom of the material, thus: straight line, pass threads over the thread cutter on the
presser bar. After the material has been removed and the
threads cut, do not run the machine accidentally or other
wise without material under the presser foot. (See following
paragraph.)
When tensions are properly adjusted the stitching o IMPORTANT the machine is threaded, do not
materials will look the same on both sides, thus: operate it without having material
- under the presser foot.
Failure to observe this instruction will cause thread to
lodge in the shuttle mechanism and prevent machine from
Teii Eleven

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The Narrow Hem
mer
running properly. To correct, take out bobbin Case and
tion, turning wheel by
the machine in the wrong direc better still remove s huttlehand
and it will cut thread out; orpins . anc
clean the race and drivi ng
To Avoid Breaking Needles
Never pull the work, causing needle to strike the needle
en by sewing heavy seams
plate. A needle may also be brok

I or very thick goods without suffi


foot for such heavy work. To incre
thumb screw on top of the press

Loos
The needle bar should
en the thuiu u screw of
cient pressure Ofl the presser
ase this pressure,
er bar.

To Set the Needle


the

be raised to its highest Point.


the needle clamp and Press it to
the shank of the needle to
the left. This will permitthe needle bar as far as it pass up
will go
betw een the clam p and
• shan k to the right . Then n
faste the
with the flat side of the rely. Use a screw driver. Figure 5
needle clamp screw secir ng shou ld pass in the
The needle when descendi front to rear, but center
from that it j
of the needle plate hole. If it does not the needle isclose to
equaled the dainty finishingmer.
right side of needle hole either nothing has ever by the use of the Narrow Hem
bent or improperly set. sible to obtain
05 Sewing Machine in plac
Proper Needles and Thread This attachme nt is put on the ned to turn and stitch a nar
and is desig
ser foot
ct needles that are not bent of the p.res one oper ation .
It is important to use perfe row• hem in over % mci
ring needles for this machine men
nor blunted. When ordethe material in Hemmer creaseinser
head number. For ordinary fam Before inserting of abou t 2 inches, t edge ii
tion the name and givesize No. 1. This will carry thread No. of its edge
for a dista nce
the scrol l, folded edge on tor
ily sewing, use need le it arou nd
90. Hemmer guiding until edge is under needle; lower presse
60 to No. draw fabric back hing appear too far fror
Needle and Thread Sizes to stitch. Should stitc
bar and beginof hem, push Hemmer slightly toward the right
Cotton Thread Other Threads turned edgehing appear too close to edge, or not catching a
Needle Sizes Mercerized
0 80 to 100 should stitc mer slightly toward
the left.
Nylon A all, move Hem neith er too much feeds into th
Silk A so that
Guide material and uneven hems; neither too little, nc
80 Merc erized wide
1 60 to
Mercerized scroll, causinga second turning, thus leaving a raw edge. Tb
2 40 to 60 allowing for kept just full.
Heavy Duty Mercerized scroll should be
3 30 to 40 Heavy Duty Mercerized
plast ic film, use No. 0 need le and mercerized thread.
For TMrteen
Twelve

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Seam with Foot
Hemmer
A Felled
Hemming and Sewing on Lace in One 0
Operatj
With the Foot Hemmer

Figure 11

double strength
F. 10
felled seam is generally used where
A
The Narrow Hemmer is designed with a slot at the right a nice fiat finish.
desired with is c
into which the edge of lace, rick-rack braid or any finished foot hemmer for felling the labor
edge can be inserted and stitched to garment while it is being When using the
hemmed. in half. togetli
Proceed to make a hem in the same manner described on pieces of material to be seamed
place the two one section to extend about
previous page. Insert edge of lace or trimming right side facing, allow
down in slot at right of hemmer and see that the needje with right sides other. Place goods under the Foot Henur
beyond the
pierces it close to the edge just above turned edge of hem. inch
it were the presser foot,
keeping narrow
Commence to stitch guiding the lace edge into the slot of just as though edge of Foot Hemmer
hemmer with the right hand while guiding material to be ost; stitch, using the
of seam upperm After stitchin g is completed op
hemmed into the scroll of Hemmer with the left hand. seams edge.
a guide for under foot hemmer with right side of ma
Applying lace in what is termed the French manner also seams and place e and the widest half of sei
requires the use of the Narrow Hemmer. Enter the fabric to bed of machin
1 down fiat on This widest portion of seams edge is tl
na
be hemmed as for plain hemming, enter laces from the left, toward the right.
right side down, on top of the fabric; allow edge of lace to and if seam
of hemmer (See Fig. 11)
enter hemmer and meet material just as it is being turned, entered in scroll 34 inch or widest half of seam v
d the
thus the hem will enclose lace edge in one stitching. Press been evenlY stitche inch edge in a neat felled seam.
hem back on wrong side of fabric and no visible stitching enclose and cover the
will mar this dainty finish.
Fourteen Fifteex

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Wide Hemmers Cutting Gauge
gauge is used as
The cuttingcutting bias bands
a guide
when
binding; or narrow
for use as straight or bias to
bands eitherfacings, pipings,
as
be used or narrow ruffling.
4 Figure H

The inch and fractions thereof, d


ignated on the cutting gauge, enab p
one to cut material of any texture
fectly for use with the binder.
%-inch of +4-inch is correct for firn
woven materials.
1-inch to 1-inch is correct for yr
terialS that stretch more readily. T
gauge slide is adjustable and can
moved to the left or right.
Figuze 12

An assortment of wide hemmers is furnished with Y1r


Sewing Machine.
Attach the desired size of Hemmer to machine in place
of the presser foot; crease over Y inch of material to be
FrUre 15
hemmed for about two inches before inserting edge of goods gauge to
Enter material and guide it around scroll of hemmer using Attach cutting scissors, move
both hands to draw it back and forth a few times, while lower point of
gradually feeding the cloth into the hemmer so as tO fill the width of band
gauge slide to the material
scroll completely. Draw material back so that creased edge desired. Insert
the blades
fits around edge of scroll in hemmer and selvedge edges meet. to be cut between with the
Hold both under and upper threads and proceed to stitch. cutting gauge
of the against the
edge of material
Should the stitching appear too far from turned edge of moving the
slide, then cut in short
hem loosen thumb screw and move hemmer toward the right. scissors forward
If it appears dangerously close to turned edge of hem move even clips.
hemmer toward the left. that bind
It is important with the
ings to be used
As material is stitched through the large hemrners the on a true bias
turn at edge of hem is visible. Allow the hem to ride freely binder be cut perfect work.
through the hemmer, never drawing on the edge being turned, to produce
a true bias will stretch
but gently retarding the material under the hemmer, using Only
the left hand. evenly.
Sixteen Seventeen

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I The Multiple Slot Binder
The popularity for bindings that do double
diminishes. Bindings are frequently used to finishduty never
8 only the edges
of fabric as well as furnishing a garment’
signed to Cover every

call for narrow bindings


trimming.
The Multiple Slot binder
is de
need whether it be the binding
making of dainty garmeactual
that
construction of so manyor in the
house.
•1 hold utilities.
The Multiple Slot Binder
l.a
made with & different
each designed to carry sized lot
binding
their width. Size 1-2-34 5 o
Commercial single fold binding
must be used and fed into
the
slots of same size as illustrated
The familiar % inch or
bias cut binding which +jevery inch
Figure 18
woman has always used is entered
through the open mouth of decided point and enter each width
scro the Clip bid1! to a
helping it beyond the needle with the
The Binder is adjustable aide. its respective slot pin and starting with the narrow
needle or
wise to bring the stitching prop.. of a large bound is inserted in the center of
erly close to the edge of binding. to be
width. The edge
between the scroll and held in as far as possil
Exclusive Bindings with the attaChmt
Multiple Slot Binder without crowding.
Many lovely double binding combinations are possible
Remove the presser foot, attach Binder in its place. and 3; 2 and 4; or 3 and 5.
several different sizes: 1
As shown in Fig. 18 the Multiple Slot Binder can be used
for attractive combination trimmings so much in vogue on
jabots and frilled accessories. Binding with Bias Cut Binding
Our illustration shows a tricolored trim using com Binding that has been cut and prepared for Bind
mercial single fold bindings sizes 1—3 and 5. Sizes 5 and 8 should be cut to a long point, inserr.ed into the scrolls
act as two tone pipings while size 1 binds the edge enclosing
the fabric in the double piping all in one single stitching. Binder and helped forward beyond the needle by the aid of
This trimming is just as effective on the reverse side of fabric large pin. Lower presser bar and stitch to ascertain whe
making It a desirable accomplishment for any dainty cascade. stitching line appears on binding.
Eighteen Nineteen

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Quilting

I
— •,_

h. •.-;_.

Ylgur. 1

The Binder is adjustable and can be moved to left o


right, until line of stitching appears safely close to edge of
binding.
In binding scallops it is necessary to hold the edge to be Figure 20
bound well into the fold between scroll of Binder as fabric
nears the needle, at this point only is binding being stitched So much depend s upon the accuracy in stitching espe
and if care is exercised no stretch will appear on this curved succes sive rows are used for trimming. The quiltei
when guide for any stitching that is si
edge. Illustration of bound scallops (Fig. 19) clearly show3 act as an accura te
this operation. the presser foot allows.
wider apart than quilting over wadding the Quilter C
Additional rows of binding can be applied as a trimming For genuin e
used with the waddinQuilter Foot has no equal. Place as z
by placing garment to be trimmed under the Binder and guid of g over the wrong side of quilt f:
ing the spaces between rows by the edge of Binder Frame. thicknesses
place a piece of cheese cloth over the who
as desired, pucker so desirab le on comfortables or q
insure the even
the thread cutter screw at back of presser
Free wire to fit into the screw
sufficientlY to allow quilter the distance from needle desired
Adjust Quilte r Guide
high enough from bed of machine so that material can
then tighten screw.
under it freely, fairly long and keep the w
Set the machine stitch
side of quilt upperm ost.
g release the pressure ox
For extremely thick paddin the Presse r Bar Cap. (Fig. 3).
Quilter Foot by turning
Twenty Twenty-one

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wide range of effects.
be formed in a

I
pleating canset for deep or shallow pleats, spaced c
Ruffler be
Ruffler can far apart.
A. Slots to space together or
fullness at number
of stitches. Six-Stitch Pleating
B. Slide lever to set pin in
regulate depth of At poi nt “A”
for pleat
pleat. No. 6 opening At
h stitch.
every sixt loosen screw,
poi nt “B” en
down to deepby
placing slide lever plea ts
Attach Ruflier by chm ent pleat. Spa ce
h on sewing
the foot “C” on atta ‘ength of stitc
holder and the fork armclamp mach ine.
astride the needle
screw.
n Twelve-Stitch Pleating
See that needle goes dowin
n center of needle hole set pin in
Ruffier. At point “A” ing for pleat
No. 12 open
stitch. At
every twelfth loos en screw,
point “B”
lever dow n to deepen
slide
pleat. Spa ce pleats by
Ruffling of stitc h on sewing
ruffled length
Enter material to beEdge of machine.
between blue blad es.
l is guid ed into one of
materia stab le
several slot s or adju Group Pleating
guides provided forwan different stitch pleating,
widths of sea m allo ce or
Set Ruifler to for six-stitch or tweoflve-
plea ts. Stop sewi
sho wn in these make firs t group
headings, as above, proceed
pictures. pin in
No. At point “A” set marked
At point “A”, set pinat inevery neutral open ing
1 opening for gather hout pleat
star. Stitch witwhe
stitch. At point “B” dept loosen
to poi nt re next
h of ing begin.
screw and set lever forthe finest group of plea ts
gather. No. 1 makes h on sew “A” to
gather. Length of stitc unt of Reset pin at pointposition.
in machine varies amo previous pleating
fullness.
Twenty-two Twenty-three

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Edgestitching to Ruffle
Piping and
material to
Shirring Shirring Plate. Enter
with ’cvan
The Shirring Plate is used to Use Ruff1 blades from right Guide into seam-allo
ings een squa red openir
make wide ruffles, deep head ffle d betw Place pipin g throu gh
rows 5hirflng Plate. Guide folded ed
on ruffles, and for continuous t of
50 unde r edge of base fabric.
left. Fold abov e blad es. To adjust the guic
of shirring. on piping and
abov e
edge, loosen screw behi nd needle ho
into slot
need le sews on very
So
and slide
To Use Shirring Plate:
1. Remove handhole cove r. Put Shirring Plate on machine
of needle plate. Point
with point “YY” in screwinghole of needle plate, and is held
“XX” goes in squared open ced at this point.
in place with handhole cover, repla
and head ing guide by loosening
2. Remove lower blade side of Ruff ler, and Slipping for
small screw on right
ward . Tigh ten smal l scrgw .
before.
3. Put Ruffler on machine as
4. Set attachment
for ruffling. For
several rows of
shirring, it helps
to use the Quilt
ing Guide for
spacing.

Twenty-four Twenty-five

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Combination Edge-Stitcher, Tucking Guide and
Top-Braider
The Edge-Stitching Attachment is
fastened to the machine in the same
manner as the Presser-Foot. There are
five different slots, which are shown j
the illustration, serving as guides for
sewing together laces, insertions, em.
broideries, sewing in position folded or
hemmed edges, bias-folded material or
piping, etc.

How to Adjust the Edge-Stitcher


or left until the Braiding
To adjust, move the lug “A” to then right sewi ng two pieces of guid e “G” to the right until the braiding gt
desir ed adjustme nt is obta ined . Whe Move the with the needle hole of the atts
that the attachment is exac tly in line
lace together, it is very necessary edge , so that the edges wili hole “K” is design to be braided should be plainly marked
adju sted to stitc h exac tly on the ment. The the top or right side of the fabric. Start
not fold over when laun dere d. gmped on stitch along design, be
it is better soutache braidsoutinto hole “K” and
When sewing laces or soft materials together, the ache braid is feeding freely into hole 4
to hold the edges, slightly overlapped. This will prevent the sure thattwis a corner, stop the machine
ting. To braid in the exact corner of
lace from feeding away from the guide. without n throu gh the
When the attachment is properly adju sted, the most in. the need’e dow press er-ba r just enough to permit the tt
oper ator may sew yard s of lace or material design, raise the the desir ed direction, lower the pres
experienced fabric in
together with no difficulty. ing bf theproc eed as befo re.
bar and
Tucking
The numbers 2 to 6 inclusive stamped on the back edge
width of tuck in eighth
of the sliding guide represent the rial
of an inch. After folding the mate for the first tuck put
nearest the needle.
the folded edge into the guide slot which gis “H”
When the left edge of the friction sprin coincides with
the number 2 on the scale a Y” tuck results
In like manner, set the guide at 3 for a %“ tuck.
In like manner, set the guide at 4 for a %“ tuck.
In like manner, set the guide at 5 for a % tuck.
84n tuck.
In like manner, set the guide at 6 for a
1%” move the guide “G” as far
For tucks narrower than
as desired to the left.
Twent,.ejz Twentlf-SCVCfl

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per
tion Adjustable Zip
The Combina and Cording Foot
The Slurring Foot ttadhing
igned S
This attachment is des
stitc hing ei
can be adjusted for g in a s
side of cor din
left or right
for stitc hin g rig ht or left
or
e fastener.
when attaching a slid
jus t by loo sen ing thu mb screw
des ired pos ition on
sliding foot to

Inserting Cording

Figure 26

and well liked Sewing Machine


One of the very newest g
smocking obtained when usin the
trimmings is the dainty
Shirring Foot. FIgure 27
ring held firmly by a row of t and attach the Ad
Fig. 26 shows rows of shir regular presserin foo
ugh the needle hole of Shirring Foot Remove the its place. Loosen therig U
DMC Floss entered thro Att ach men t
le it being gathered. These con
is able Combin ation mo ve the foot to the
and stitched to garment whi broken by a diagonal shirring attachm ent and
dle. See tha
are screw on theis to be to the left of the nee
tinuous rows of shirring d ct. the cordinsg down in center of the needle hol
e before tig
active puffing for a smocke effe
which produces a very attr this wor k needle goe screw.
the pre sser-foo t for
ing the thumb d, right side out,
The Shirring Foot replace
s of bias over the cor
full nes s obt aina ble is governed by the Fold a strip attachment. Stitch along close to the
and the amount of the
place undersho ble Attachment beinghin us
and tension. For fine shirring sot ws the Adjusta ede in one stitc g
setting of machine stitch h Fig. 27 fab ric
obt ain greater fullness lengthen the stitc and ioin
cover cordthe
it to a
ly bu ky, loosen the Pr
the stitch short; to fabric is extreme
ion. When to al ow the fabricto
and tighten the upper tens Cap Scr ew slig htly
Combination Attach
de fab ric as it is being gathered so that Bar Adjusting er the Adj usta ble
Carefu lly gui
dle singly. more freely und
material feeds to the nee
Twenty-eight Twent

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Cabinet
Sewing Machine Head on
I Attaching a Slide Fastener To Install
Place the headcabinet
on
rige
2)
-c n ks
two binges of
d to backcab
-r- •

in top of back
head
__
inet. TIP head
and tightenscrews
4 singe set lY.
(Fig. 2) secUre
bushin g U on
- pull as near
motor cord
as pos
-—-“

:.
to the motOr slip motor
FIrure 2S
sible and slot at edge
cord into plate and
of bed
rush bushin g back
Remove the regular presser foot and attach the Com hole in bed plate
the thumb screw Into
bination Attachment in its place. Loosen 9). Un
(see Fig. extefls cabinet, plug into an
on the attachment and move the foot to
the right or left as lOfl cord inside ethe
in center of the wind the
outlet, and the machin is ready for operation.
desired. See that the needle goes down base plug
is treadle operated, merely place leather bel
needle hole before tightening the thumb screw. If machinewheel drive pulley as of course there is no moto
around hand connections.
The needle holes on either side are cut deep enough to or electrical
slide fastener Motor Lubrication
allow sufficient space between the metal of the at either end of the motor shaft) provid
stitchin g so the fabric will not catch in the cups (one fill with petro
and the line of Two
tion. Unscre w the caps and
slide pull as it is being opened and closed. for motor lubrica nallY, depending upon the use of the
ma
leuni jelly occasio every six month s.
Fig. 28 shows a slide fastener being stitched in a gar chine, approximately
ment with the Combination Adjustable Zipper Attach
ing and Speed Control and Current g th
Cording Foot positio ned to the right of the needle .
The desired sewing speed is obtained by pressin
Remov ing pressu re from the knee lever auto
knee lever. machine. The motor can be used on eithe
maticallY stops the
or 115 volts up to 75 cycles.
AC or DC, 110
Motor Pulley
the motor pulley (Fig. 9) is adjusted so ii
Be sure wheel of the machine.
centers on the disc
Thirty Thirty-one

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rubs Presser Foot:
SIMPLE CORRECTIONS FOR 4. Needle foot holder on the presser bar so th

4, MINOR DIFFICULTIES Adjust presser to, but ,iot rubbing, the right side of t
needle is closer
This sewing machine was carefully adjuste d and tested To make this adjustment, loosen the snut
presser foot.fastens
care and attention preSser foot holder to presser ha
before being delivered, and with proper should give you no screw that
to the proper position and firmly tghtc
according to the directions in this book s for it, such Adjust the foot
should be a trifle closer to the rig)
trouble. To be sure of getting the proper supplie you buy them screw. The needle
as needles, oil and bobbins we recommend that e side of the foot.
from us, always giving the name of your machin and its
serial number. Thread
If your machine should actually need replace ment parts if it Breaks
be caused by—
or repair service we sugges t that you get in touch with us. The trouble may
to tamper with being used:
Do not permit just anybody who comes along agents and un.. i. Wrong Needle
before trying anything else to put in
or attemp t to fix your machin e. Unskil led it is important , proper kind and size.
trained repair men often do far more harm than good in new straight needle
attempting to adjust a sewing machine. 2. Needle too fine:
needle and thread according to th
For the most part sewing machine troubles. can be reme Select the proper in this instruction book.
died by minor adjustments easy over to perform Should Your table elsewh ere
machine start misbehaving, check the following list of Plate Choked with Stray Threads:
3. Hole in the Needle the underside of needle plate witi
minor difficulties and simple corrections for them, before Pull threads from needle, or better remove plate anc
calling for help. screw driver or long
clean.
If it Skips Stitches 4. Machine Improperly Thread
ed:
the instructions on threading thE
The trouble may be caused by— Check over carefullye especia lly the threading of the
1. Crooked Needle: machine and observ plate.
May be hardly perceptible yet sufficient to cause skipping. check spring on top of the face
Unthread the needle, remove presser foot, nt turn machine 5. Top Tension too Tight:
by hand. Needle should maintain a consta passes position in Refer to instructions elsewhere in this hook On the proper
relation to the needLe hole as the needle down adjustment—both upper and lower tensions.
through the needle plate hole. is 6. Needle too Close to Presser Foot:
Replace with a new needle and make certain this not
Adjust foot as described “Needle Rubs on Presser Foot”
the cause of trouble. under “Skips Stitches”.
2. Incorrect Needle—or too fine a needle: 7. Examine needle hole in needle plate. If it has become
It is very important that you have the correct needle. Be rough or burred from needle striking it, needle plate
certain to follow the table in this instruction book in should be replaced with a new one.
selecting the proper size needle for size of thread and
material being used. if It Breaks Needles
3. Needle incorrectly set: The trouble may be caused by—
The needle must be pushed up as far as it will go into sewing will break needles.
the needle clamp with the flat side of the shank to the 1. Pulling of the material when
right and fastened securely with thumb screw. Guide the material only—do not pull.
Thirty-two Thirty-three

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2. Wrong Needle being used:
Be sure you are using the correct needle for this machine 4. Needle
Plate
slightly bent down. N
this plate might be from
3. Needle incorrectly set—too low: pars in needle striking it
might be rough
- See instructions elsewhere in this book on how to P1o plate hole
new needle plate is required.
erly set needle and follow instructions carefully. either case a
4. Needle Rubs on Presser Foot:
Adjust foot as described “Needle rubs on Presser Foot”
under “Skips Stitches”. Loose itcbing
6. Needle not firmly set: be caused by—
The trouble may
After being certain needle is properly set be sure it is loose—eithe r top, bottom or both:
held tight by needle clamp screw—use a screw driver. too
1. Tension elsewhere on tension adjustment
See instructions
balance.
If Puckers On Ordinary Material fails to Operate Satisfactorily:
2. Upper Tension lodged between tension plate Nc
The trouble may be caused by— Lint or stray threads
Raise the presser atfoot lifter (see illustration). Set
1. Tensions NOT in balance: figure No. 1, next cut a piece of 1
Reduce the tension on upper thread by moving indicator tension regulator cloth to a point and di
towards No. 1. Do some testing. If this fails, examine this strip of cloth thro
lower tension on bobbin case for proper adjustment and and under tension p1
proceed to balance the tensions. See instructions else No. 1 and close to sci
where in this book on tension adjustment. No. 3 on the side from
2. Blunt Needle—Replace with a new straight needle-_..ex. as shown in illustratj
amine needle point. This cloth should be dra
down through tension p1
No. I and washer No. 2 4
If Puckers On Fine Material shown in illustration), t
can be accomplished
The trouble may be caused by— holding tension plate (I’
1. Both tensions may be too tight: 1) and washer (No.
Adjust upper and lower tensions—must be in balance apart with a small sen
For chiffon and other very light materials, best results driver. Be careful to dri
are obtained with upper tension set at and the lower the cloth between plc
tension in balance with that. However, sufficient tension No. 1 and washer No.
must be maintained to raise the small auxiliary spring When you have this do
(No. 4 in Fig. 3) when machine is in operation. in place, drop the press
2. Presser foot loose in holder: bar lifter, move the te
Tighten knurled thumb screw.
sion regulator toward N
8 and pull the cloth up az
3. Blunt Needle:
down a few times which will remove any bits of thread
Replace with new straight needle—examine needle point. lint from between tension plate No. 1 and washer No.
Thirty-four
Thirty-five

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