I r ish Standard

1. 5. EN ISO 16373-1:2015

Textiles - Dyestuffs - Part 1: General

principles of testing coloured textiles for
dyestuff identification (ISO 16373-1:2015)

It) eEN 2016 No copymg without NSAI permission exCept a~ permitted by copyright law
1. 5. EN 150 16373-1 ,2 01 5

Incorporating amendments/corrigenda/National Annexes issued since publfcation:

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1.5. x)()(: Irish Standard - national specification based on the conse nsus of an expert panel and su bject to public consultation .

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SWiFT xxx : A rapi dly developed recommendatory document based on the consensus of the participants of an NSAI workshop.

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This document is based on: Published:

EN 150 16373-1 ,2015 2015-12-23

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2016-01-11
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Nat ional Foreword

1.5. EN ISO 16373-1 :2015 is the adopted Irish version of the European Document EN ISO 1 6373-1:2015,
Textiles - Dyestuffs - Part 1: Gene ral pri nciples of testing coloured textiles f or dyestuff identification ( ISO
16373-L2015 )

This document does not purport to include all the necessary proviSions of a cont ract. Users are responsible
for Its co rrect app lication.

Complian ce with thi s document doe s not o f it s elf co nf e r imm u nity from le ga l o blig a tion s.

In line with international s tandards practice the decimal point is shown as a comma (.) throughout this
document.
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 1.5 . EN ISO 16373-1:2015

EUROPEAN STANDARD EN ISO 16373-1

NORME EUROPEENNE
EUROPA!SCHE NORM December 2015

ICS 59.080.Q1

English Version

Textil es - Dyestuffs - Part 1: Gen eral principles of testing

coloured textil es for dyestuff id entificati on (ISO 163 73-
1:2015)
Texti les - Colorants· Partie 1: Principes generaux
d'essais des textiles colon~s pour !'identification des
colorants (ISO 16373-1:2015)
Textilien - Farbstoffe - TeB1 : Allgemeine Grundlagen
der Pr(ifung farbige r Textilien zur Farbstoff-
Identifikation ([SO 16373-1:2015)

This European Sta ndard was approved by (EN o n 31 Octobe r 2015.

CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Interna l Regu lations which s tipulate th e condi tions for givi ng this
European Standard the status of a national standa rd without any altera tio n. Up-ta-date lists and bibliographica l refe rences
concerning such nationa l standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELE( Management Centre or to any CEN
membe r.

This European Standard exis ts in three offici<:ll ve rsions (English, French. German). A ve rsion in any ot her la nguage made by
translation unde r the responsibility of a (EN membe r into its own language and notified to t he CEN-CENELEC Management
Centre has the same status as the o ffi cial verS ions,

CEN me mbers are the national standards bodi es of Austria, Belgium. Bulgaria. Croatia. Cyprus, Czech Republic. Denmark. Estonia.
Fin land, Fo rmer Yugoslav Republi c of Macedonia. France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Ice la nd , Ireland, Ita ly. Latvia, Lithua n ia,
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United Kingdom.

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COMITE EUROPE EN DE NORMALISATION
EUROPAISCHES KOMITEE FOR NORMUNG

CEN-CENELE( Manageme nt Cen t re: Ave nu e Ma rni x 17, 8 -1 000 Brussels

© 20 15 (EN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. EN 150 16373- 1:20 15 E
worldwide for CEN national Members.
This page is intentionally left blank
I.S. EN ISO 16373-1 :2015

INTERNATIONAL ISO
STANDARD 16373-1

First ed ition
2015·12-15

Textiles - Dyestuffs -
Part 1:
General principles of testing coloured
textiles for dyestuff identification
Textiles - C%ra ll ts-
Partie 1: Principesgem!raux d'essais des textiles co lores pour
/'identification des coloran ts

Reference number
ISO 16373·1 :2015(E)

© ISO 2015
 I.S. EN ISO 16373-1 :2015
ISO 16373-1:2015(E)

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 I.S. EN ISO 16373-1 :2015
ISO 16373·1:2015(E)

Contents Pa ge

Foreword ... .. ................................................................................................................................... iv

Introduction ..........................................................................................................................................................................................................................v
1 Scope ... ............................................................................................................................................................................... 1
2 Normative references ......................................................................................................................................................... 1
3 Ternls and definitions .............................................................................................................................................................................. .. 1
4 Fibre identification .... ......................................................................................... 2
5 Dye classes, based on the method of applying the dye ................................................................................................ 2
5.1 Acid dye ................................................................................................................................................................................................. 2
5.2 Metal complex acid dye .. .......................................................................................................................................................... 2
5.2.1 1:1 Metal complex dye ........................................................................................................................................... 2
5.2.2 1:2 Metal complex dye ... ................................................................................ 2
5.3 Azoic dye .............................................................................................................................................................................................. 2
5.4 Basic dye (also ca lled cationic dye) .... .................................................................................................................. 2
5.5 Mordant dye ....................................................................................................................................................................................... 3
5.6 Direct dye ........................................................................................................................................................................................... 3
5.7 Di sperse dye ... ............................................................................................................................................ 3
5.8 Reactive dye... ............................................................................................................................................ 3
5.8.1 General ................................................................................................................................................................................ 3
5.8.2 Anthraquinone reac tive dye ............................................................................................................................. 3
5.9 Sulfur dye ... ....... .................. .......................................... ..................... ...... ..... ..... ............................................................. .3
5.10 VAT dye ... ................................................................................ 3
6 Complementary dye class, based on chemist classification: Azo dye ........................................................... 3
7 Reagents ............................. . ............................... 4
8 Apparatus ... ........................................................................................................................................................... 5
9 Conditioning and testing atmosphere ................................................................................. . ......................................... 5
10 Preparation of the test specimens ... .......... ................................... 5
11 Procedures (examples) ... .......................................................................................... 5
11.1 Pigment identification ...................... ............................................................................................................. 5
11.2 Finishing removal treatment ............................................................................................................................................... 5
11.3 Acid dyes. basic, direct dyes and reactive dyes ....................................... . .............................................. 5
11.4 VAT dyes, s ul fur dyes, reactive dyes, aniline black, azo ic dyes, di,·ect dyes,
developed di sperse dyes and chrome dyes ............................................................................................................. 5
11.5 Metal·complex dyes and disperse dyes ....................................................................................................................... 5
11.6 Extraction test ..................................................................................................................................................................................... 5
11.7 Ash test ....................................................................................................................................................................................................... 5
11.8 Miscellan eous tests ................................................................................................................................................................ 6
12 Testing report ................................................................................................................................................................................................. 6
Annex A (informative) Explanatory table of colourants (dyes and pigments) used in various
textile materials ................................................................................................................................................................................................ 13
Annex B (informative) Comparison between ISO 16373·2 and ISO 16373-3: Recovery rates ............ 15
Bibliography ......................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 17

© ISO 2015 - All rights reserved iii

 1.5. EN ISO 16373-1:2015
ISO 16373-1:2015(E)

Foreword
ISO (the International Organization for Sta ndardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards
bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally carried out
throu gh ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a tech nica l
committee has been established has the right to be represented on that committee. International
organizations, governmental and non·governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work.
ISO collaborates closely wi th the International Electro tec hnical Commission ( IEC) on all matters of
electrotechnical standardi zation.
The procedures used to deve lop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are
described in the ISO/ IEC Directives. Part 1. In particular the different approval criteria needed for the
different types of ISO documents should be noted. This document was drafted in acco rdance with the
editoria l rules of the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2 (see wwwiso org/directives).
Attention is drawn to the possibi lity that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of
patent ri ghts. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. Details of
any patent rights identified during the development of th e document will be in the Introduction and/or
on the ISO list of patent declarations received (see wwwiso org / patents).
Any trade Ilame used in this document is information given for the conven ience of users and does not
constitute an endorsement.

For an explanation on the meaning of ISO specific terms and ex pressions related to conformity
assessment, as well as information about ISO's adherence to the WTO principles in the Technica l
Barriers to Trade (T8T) see the fol lowing URL: Foreword - Supplementa ry information

ISO 16373-1 was prepared by the European Committee for Standardization (CEN) Technical Committee
CENt re 248, 'iextiles and textile products. in collaboration with ISO Technical Committee TC 38, Textiles,
in accordance with the Agreement on technical cooperati on between ISO and CEN (Vienna Agreement).
ISO 16373 consists of the foll owing parts. under the genera l title Textiles - Dyestuffs:
Part 1: General principles of testing coloured textiles for dyestuffidentiJication
Part 2: General method for the determination of extractable dyestuffs including allergenic and
carCinogenic dyestuffs (method using pyridine·water)
Part3:Methodfordeterminationofcertaincarcinogen icdyestuffs(me thodusingtriethylamine/methanol)

iv © [$0 2015 - An rights re served

 I.S. EN ISO 16373-1:2015
ISO 16373-1:2015(E)

Introduction
The ISO 16373- series deals with dyes used in textiles for qualification and quantification.
This part of ISO 16373 includes the definition of the classes of dyes, the description of some procedures
to identify qualitatively the class of dyes used in textile material.

The other parts of ISO 16373 are related to the quantification of some dyes.
The principle of the tcst method in ISO 16373-2 is based on the extraction using pyridine- water
solution, which has been found to be the Illost efficient solution to extract a large range of dyes,
including allergenic and carcinogenic dyes.

The principle of the test method in ISO 16373-3 is based on the extraction using triethylam ine-
methanol solution. This solution ha s been found efficient to extract some dyes in some cases.

Additional information re lated to the recovery rates (to characterize the extract ion efficiency) obtained
from the app lication of ISO 16373-2 and ISO 16373-3 are summarized in Annex B.
It is important to note that there are other test methods related to azo dyes, for which a reduction of the
extracted azo dyes leads to the release of some aromatic amines to be detected and determined using
chromatography (See Bibliography/Aromatic amines determination).

© ISO 2015 - At! rights reserved v

 loS. EN ISO 16373-1 :2015
ISO 16373-1:2015(E)

3.3
pigment
water-i nsoluble molec ul e whic h has no dyeing affi nity with fibre
Note 1 to cntry: The defining di fference between a dye and a pigment is its so lu bili ty in an aqueous medium. [n
this part of ISO 16373. the term "affi nity " is used as a qualitat ive expression, although affin ity is t he quantitative
ex pression of substan tivity a nd usually expressed in Joules per mule, where suhstantivity is the attraction
between a subst rate and a dye or other s ubstance under precise cond itions where the latter is selecti vely
extracted from the applicatio n med ium by the substra te.

4 Fibre identification
Prior to a ny colourant identification (includi ng dye class). the fibre nature of the text ile product shall be
known. The fibre nat ure may be based on info rm ation given by m a nufact u rel~ etc. or ca n be iden tifi ed,
using one or more tec hniques as described in ISOITR 11827, for exa mpl e.
An expla natory tab le of colourants lIsed in va rious textile ma terials is given in Annex A.

5 Dye classes, based on the method of applying the dye

5.1 Acid dye

Acid dye is water-sol ub le anionic dye usi ng neutral to acid dye bat hs. Attac hme nt to the fibre (e.g.
protein fibres a nd polya mide fibres) is att r ibuted, at ieasl partly, to salt format ion between an ion ic
grou ps in the dye and cationic groups in the fibre.

5.2 Metal complex acid dye

A met al complex dye is an ac id dye that has a coordinate metal atom in its mol ec ul e.

5.2.1 1:1 Metal complex dye

1 molecule of dye is combined with 1 meta l ion.

5.2.2 1:2 Metal complex dye

2 molecules of dye arc combined w ith 1 metal ion. 1:2 meta l complex dyes are th e most freq uent.

5.3 Azoic dye

Azoic dye is water·insoluble dye which is fo rmed 011 t he fibre by coupling a watt: r- soluble diazo
com pound with a water soluble coupling com pound having affi ni ty for cellulose.
NOTE 1 The de fini tion o f the class ~ azoic dye" ('dyers' classification) is dist inct from t he definition of the cla ss
"azo dye" (see Clause 6 chem ist classification).

NOTE 2 For t he Fren ch version . the term "azoic dye" should be tran slated by "colora nt azoTque insoluble"
(known as well as "colorant naphtol ") in order to make a clear distinction with the translation of"azo dye" by
"colora nt azolque".

5.4 Basic dye (also called cationic dye)

Basic dye is water-soluble cationic dye using neutra l to acid dye baths. Attachment to t he fibre (e.g.
acrylic) is a ttributed, a t least partly, to sa lt formation between cationic grou ps in the dye and anionic
grou ps in th e fibre.

2 © [SO 20 15 - All rights reserved

 1.5. EN ISO 16373-1 :2015
ISO 16373-1:2015(E)

5.5 Mordant dye

Dye capable offarming a chelate compl ex with a meta l ion (e.g. chromium) thus forming a me tal complex
dye in situ within the fibre.
NOTE Due to the toxi city of residual chromium ions in wa s te water, thi s kind of treatment is us ually
st ri ct ly co ntrolled.

5.6 Di"ect dye

An anionic dye that interacts with the fibre (e.g. cellulosic fibre, polyamide fibres) by mechanical
adsorption, normally applied from an aqueou s bath containing electrolyte

5.7 Disperse dye

A water insoluble dye having affinity for hydrophobi c fibres (e.g. polyester and ace tate fibres) .
NOTE The dyes are finely ground in t he prese nce of a dispersing agent and so ld as a paste, or spray-d ried
and sol d as a powd er. Th e ve ry fine p<lrticle size gives a large surface area that aids dissolution to a llow up take
by th e fib re.

5.8 Reactive dye

S.B.1 General
Reac tive dye contains specific reactive groups that are capable of chemically reacting with the fibre
s ubstrate to form a coval ent chemical bond betwee n the dye and the fibre ,

5 ,8.2 Anthraquinone reactive dye

Anthraquinone reactive dye is a sub-cl ass of reac tive dyes w here the chromophore par t is based on
a nth raqu inones.

5.9 Sulfur dye

Su lfur dye is water insoluble. It has to be treated with a reducing agent and an a lkali at temperature of
a round 80 °C where the dye breaks in to small particles wh ich then becomes water soluble and hence
can be absorbed by the fibre. After thi s, the textile product is re moved from th e dye solution and then
take n for oxidation. During the oxidation step the small particles of dye once more form the parent dye
which is insoluble in water.

5,10 VAT dye

VAT dye is essentially insoluble in water and incapable of dyeing fibres directly. However, reduct ion in
a lkaline liquor produces the water sol uble alkali meta l sa lt of the dye, which, in thi s lellco form, has an
a ffinity for the tex tile fibre. Subsequent oxidatio n re form s the original insoluble dye.

6 Complementary dye class, based on chemist classification: Azo dye

Azo dye is dye bearing the fun ction a l group R-N ; N-R', in which Rand R' ca n be e ither a ryl or alkyl. The
N; N group is called an azo group.

NOTE 1 For exa mp le, so me ac id dyes (ll 5...2). so me di rect dyes (5.&), some disperse dye s l5...Z.). SO me reactive
dyes (5.H), etc. are a lso azo dyes.

NOTE 2 The d efinition of the class "azo dye" (chemist classification) [s distinct from the d e finition of the class
"azoic d ye" (U dyers' claSSification).

© ISO 20 15 - All rights reserved 3

 I.S. EN ISO 16373-1 :2015
ISO 16373-1 :2015(E)

7 Reagents
Use only reagents of recognized ana lytica l grade.

7.1 Water; grade 3 in accordance with ISO 3696.

7.2 Ammonia solution. concentrated.

7.3 Acetic acid, 5 % or 30 % in weight.

7.4 Tannic acid.

7.5 Sodium hydroxide solution, 5 % or 20 % in we ight.

7.6 Sodium formaldehyde sulfoxylate.

7.7 Sulfuric acid, concentrated or 5 % in weight.

7.8 Carbazole.

7.9 Hydrogen peroxide, 30 % in weight.

7.10 Sod ium dithionite.

7.11 Hydrochloric acid , 16 % in we ight.

7.12 Magnesium rihhon.

7.13 Zinc dust.

7.14 Lead acetate paper.

7.15 Hypochlorite solution, at various commerci al co ncentrations.

7.16 Pyridine.

7.17 Pyridine-water solution, 50:50.

7,18 Non-ionic detergent.

7.19 Scou red wool fahric.

7.20 Scoured cotton fa bric.

7.21 Scoured secondary acetate fabric.

7.22 Ethylene diamine tetra-acetic acid disodium salt.

7.23 Glycerol.

7.24 Diethyl ether.

4 © ISO 2015 - All rights reserved

 1.5. EN ISO 16373-1 :2015
ISO 16373·1:2015(E)

7.25 Liquid paraffin.

7.26 Toluene.

8 Apparatus

8.1 Test tubes, watch glass, and other laboratory glassware.

8.2 Ceramic cruci ble.

8.3 8alance, accurate to 0.1 g.

9 Conditioning and testing atmosphere

Because dye classes a rc determined, it is un necessa ry to cond ition t he specimen . The ana lysis is ca r r ied
ou t u nd er ord inary roo m conditions.

10 Preparation of the test specimens

The test specimens are prepared in accordance with ISO 5089.

11 Procedures (examples)

11.1 Pigment identification

Look at t he fibres un der a microscope: i f there is a layer of dyes visible on t he s urface of t he fibre and i f
t he fibre is not dyed dee p in side, it is ty pi ca l of pigme nt dyeing.

11.2 Finishing removal treatment

Remove fi na l che mica l fin ishes by trea tin g the sa mp le t w ice in a boilin g solution of 1 % of hyd rochloric
acid durin g about 5 min, t hen r inse t horoughly.

11.3 Acid dyes, basic, direct dyes and rea ctive dyes
See Llhle.1.

11.4 VAT dyes, sulfur dyes, reactive dyes, a niline black, azoic dyes, direct dyes, developed
disperse dyes and chrome dyes
See IahIl:...2..

11.5 Metal-complex dyes a nd dispers e dyes

See Iahk..3..

11.6 Extraction test

See Iable..4.

11.7 Ash test

See Iabk..S..

© ISO 2015 - All rights reserved 5

 loS. EN ISO 16373-1 :2015

ISO 16373-1:2015(E)

11.8 Miscellaneous tests

See IabkJi.

12 Testing report
The test report shall include the following information:
aJ the number and year of publication of this International Standard, i.e. ISO 16373·1:2015;
b) kind, origin and designation of the specimen (partia l specimen, if applicable);
c) principle of the applied testing;
d) identified colou rant class: pigment or class of the identified dyers);
e) any deviation, by agreement or otherwise, from the procedure specified.

6 © ISO 2015 - All rights reserved

6 Table 1 - Acid dyes, basic, direct dyes and reactive dyes
Vi
o
N Treat 0,5 g of test specimen for 1 min in bo ili ng 1 % ammonia solution (22.).
o
~
, Little or no dye bleeds into solution.

~ Treat 0,5 g offresh test specimen for 1 min with boiling 5 % acetic acid (ll).
"
'or"
~

A cons iderable amount of

The solution is not coloured .
Treat 0,5 g o f fresh test specimen for 1 min to 2 min with bo ili ng 5 % sodium hydrox ide solution (l...S.).

"~
~ elye bleeds into solution.
Discard the test T he solution is distinctly
Co nside rable a moun t of dye is stripped .
0. Divide t he solu t ion into 2 parts:
specimen. coloured.
Divide the solution iota 2 pa rts:
(1) To one part, add scoured co tton (1.2..0:) and wa rm for 5 to 10 min.
Acidify the solution with Deep staining: Direct dye. Little or no staining: Reactive dye
30 % acetic acid (23.). (1) To one part, add tannic acid
(M). Formation of precip itate: (2) To the other pa rt. add sodium formaldehyde sulfoxylate (L.6.). the solution is decolourised and original colour is
Add 0.5 g of scoured wool
(1.l2) and warm for 5 min
to 10 min at 80 00 C to
Ba s ic dye
(2) to the other part, add
no t res to red by oxida ti o n: Direct dye is confirmed
(non-disch a rgeable d irect dyes will not res pond to t h is treatment) om
90 °C. scoured wool (2ll) and warm
Direct dyes t reated with formaldehyde.
Direct dyes t reated witb copper. ch romium or nickel.
z
Wool is dyed: Acid dye for 4 min to 5 min Staining of Warm 0,5 g of test specimen in 5 % sulfuric acid c;;
wool: Ba sic dye (LI). Allow it to cool. Discard the test specimen. Then
Take 1ml of hydrogen peroxide (7..2) in a watch glass (.6...1) o
and add 2 to 3 drops of concentrated ammonia solution (1..2.). ~
add 0,1 % of ca rbazole (1.8) dissolved in conce ntrated en
After the evolution of bubbles has ceased, add about 0.1 g of w
s ul furiC acid to this extract. drop by d ro p; the
test s pecimen . If a ny vigorous action is observed, it indicates .."
formation of a blue prec ipitate indicates the presence
the presence of coppe r, chromium or n ickel. ,
W
offo r maldehyde. ~

NOTE Direct dyes t reated with resins are not identified by the lreatment given in this rable. s ince the resin p resent wi ll not have been removed in t he t reatment given fo r the ~
~
preparation of the test specimen fo r t he identification.
'"

V>
0
....
a-
w
"....
w
N

....0til
~

" '"
~
 '" Table 2 - VAT dyes, sulfur dyes, reactive dyes, aniline black, azoic dyes, direct dyes, developed disperse dyes and chrome dyes Vi
Treat 0,5 g aftest spec ime n for 2 min w ith 5 ml to 10 ml of boi ling 20 % sodi um hydroxide solut ion (l...S.). Add 4 ml to 5 ml afwater (Ll) and 15 mg to 35 mg of sodium dithionite ....oa-
(LlQl and boil fo r 1 min. w
If the colour of the sample is changed to another
tone or the test specimen becomes colourless and on
The colou r of the test The sample is permanently decolourised or is changed into No colou r change: Chrome
s peci men read il y becomes another tone and the o r iginal colour is not restored on oxidatio n: dye.
"
w
,:.
oxidation the original colour is restored: VAT dye, brown and is restored to Azoic dye or certain Diazolisable Azoic dye or 11011 - N
Wa r m the test specimen fo r
Anthraquinone reactive dye or Sulfur d ye . black when ex posed to
atmosphere: Anilin e
Anthraquinon e reactive dye
1 min to 2 min with 16 % ....o
Treat a fresh test speci -
men for 30 s with boiling
16 % hydrochloric acid_
Cool and add 3 mg of mag-
Treat a fresh test
specimen with cold
di luted hypochlori te
solution for 5 min to
bla ck
Warm the test specimen
with concentrated
Azoic dye or certain diazo lisable
azoic dyes
Treat 0,5 goffresh test specimen
Reactive dyes
Treat a fresh test spec imen
for 15 min unde r reflu x
hydrochloric ac id_Cool and
add pyridi ne-wate r (SO:50)
(1.l1)_ Dye bl eeds into
solution . Add wool
--'"
CI1

nesium ribbon CLUJ or
pure zinc dust (2.l.3.) and
warm for 2 min to 3 min .
Place a lead acetate paper
(2..H) on the mouth of the
test tube . The paper turns
black and vapour give
s mell of hydrogen sulfide
gas : Sulfur dye
for 1 min to 2 min with 5 ml of with 1 ml of conce nt rated
10 min. The test sulfu ric acid (LI) fo r mordanted with potass ium
specimen is eithe r few seconds and pour
boiling pyridine (1.l6.). Profuse sulfuric acid CLI) diluted dich romate to this extract,
decoloured or its the liquid into little cold bleeding of colour: Azoic dye. to a litre with water and and warm for 2 min to
colour lighter in tone: water: a dull green Slight bleeding of colour: 2 gIl of sodium sul fate. Dye 3 min.
Anthraquinone colour is produced: developed disperse dye. bleeds into solution. Add
Wool is dyed : Chrome dye.
reactive dye. No Anilin e black is scou red wool (Ll..2). Wool
Treat 0,5 g of fresh test specimen
ch a nge in colour: VAT con fir med is stained: Reactive dye
for 2 min to 3 min w ith 2 gIl of a (heterocyclic halogenated).
dye.
non-ionic detergent CLla) at 85 °C
No bleed ing of colour:
to 90 °C. Discard the test specimen, Reactive dye (other tha n
fn
(With blacks and greys, m
only after the absence of then add 0,5 g of scoured cotton
hete rocyclic haloge nated). z
Aniline black has been (l...Z..l) to the solution for 2 min to
Ci)
3 min . Cotton is stained: Direct
confirmed)
dye . No staining of t he cotton:
o
~
developed Disperse dye en
...'",
'"
~

~
~

'"
@
v;
o
N
o
~
~
,
1::
"
;;;
""
G:
;;:
~
~
@ Table 3 - Metal-complex dyes and disperse dye
v;
o
N Dissolve 4 g of et hylene c1iamine terril-acetic acio disodium s;)lt (7.22) in 100 g o f TreatO.S goftest specimen for 5 min w ith boiling 5 % acetic acid (1.3.).
o
~ glycerol (7.23). Heat the test specimen in this mixture at 110°(. Oeserve change in
~
, colour afterl min to 2 min and after 20 min; Ifsome dye is stripped. cool, add diethyl ether [2.2.1) and shake we ll. Ether layer is
coloured: Disperse dye.
~ Colour of the test specimen changes in 1 min to 2 min:
" Treata fresh test specimen in hOlliquid paraffin (2..2..5.) at 160 0 ( for 5 min . If the dye is
,.
,;; 1:1 Metal-complex dye
stripped. add scoured seco ndary acetate fab r ic (L2l). Tinting of acetate fabric:
~ Colour of the test specimen changes in 20 min: Disperse dye
OJ 1:2 Metal-complex dye
•
o
~
~

in
m
Z
U;
o
~
OJ
...'f'"
~

'"
o
~

'"

Vi
0
.....
'"...,
W
W
,
.....
N
0
.....
<.n
~

'" '"
~
....
o Table 4 - Extraction test Vi
o
Extract 0,5 g aftest specimen with 15 m! of pyridine-water (50:50) (LllJ in a test tube by keeping it in a beaker of boiling water for 10 min to 15 min, or until sufficient amount of .....
dye bleeds into the reagent. Discard the test specimen and note the colour of the ex tract. Pour the solution into a separating funnel and add 15 ml of toluene C1..2n); shake well and
a-
w
allow the two layers to separate. The distribution of dyes between the two layers is as foll ows: ....
w,
Toluene laye r Water layer ....
All disperse dyes At! direct dyes N

Some neut ral-dyeing 1:2 metal-complex dyes All basic dyes

....o
'"
~
Some VAT dyes All aC id -dyeing 1:1: metal-complex dyes
All chrome dyes
'"
~

All acid dyes

Logwood (natural dye from Haematoxylwn campechionlllll)
Some neutral-dyeing 1:2 metal-complex dyes
Toluene layer Water layer
[ftoluene layer is coloured, wash it with water three
times.
Separate the toluene Jayer again and evaporate it.
(I) With Logwood, the pyridine-water extract is coloured
dark cherry- red. On addition of 1-2 mt of concentrated
hydrochloric acid it turns yellow brown; furthe r, when
( IJ) With chrome dyes, water layer is coloured; but
sometimes toluene layer is also st ai ned to a different
colour than original dyeing
om
Disperse the residue with a few drops of a 10 % shaken w ith toluene, dye remains in water layer z
solution of a dispersing agent in water. Add scoured iii
wool and acetate to this extract and warm for 15 min. o
~
Only wool is dyed: If both woot and acetate are
neutral-dyeing m eta l-
complex
dyed : Disperse dye '"'"
....
-_ .. _ .. _. _dyes
. -
'";.:,•
~

o
~

'"
@
V;
o
N
o
~

,
~

E;
,.
~
~

"
OJ
~
~
a.
 ,

@ Table 5 - Ash test

u;
o
N Ash approximately 0.2 g to 0,3 g a r test s pec ime n in a crucible. Add approximately 0,2 g to 0,3 g of fl ux co mposed of equal part s by mass of powdered sod ium carbonate and
a
sod ium nitrate. Fuse the mixture and allow it to coo l. Note the prese nce orany me ta ls as ind icated be low:
~
, Chromium Yellow
~ Cobalt Roya l Blue
"'".
~
Copper
Manganese
Faint Tu rquoise
Blue-Green
"~
~
Nickel
Presence of cobal t or manganese: Neu tra l dyeing 1:2 Metal-complex dye
Brown

~ Presence of chromiu m: Direct Dye {a ftertreated with chromium salt}; Chrome Dye or Metal-complex dye (i.e. 1:1 and 1:2 Metal-complex dyes)
Presence of copper or nickel: Direct Dye (a ftcrtrcatcd with cop per salt or nickel sa lt respectively)

in
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CJ)
o
~

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't'
~

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~

U1

Vl
0
.....
'"
W

",
W
.....
N
0
.....
til
~

"'"' '"
~
...
N
Table 6 - Miscellaneous tests Vi
o
Pigments If pigments a re found to he present by the microscope test and ifazoic and VAT dyes, which look like pigments. are found to be absent by the relevant ....a-.
(printed pigments, tests, then the pigment present may be ei ther ca rbon black or of phthalocyanine type. w
excluding pigments
of mass dyed fibre) With carbon black: there will be no discolouration when the test Ilfconcentrated
phtha locyanine pigment is present. spotting the test specimen with
.....
w
specimen is t reated with sodium hydroxide and sodium dithionite (1J.Q). nitric acid
will produce a bright green tone. .:.
N
....o
'"
~

'"
~

fn
m
z
Cii
o
~

'"'"
.."
'",
~

N
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~

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@
u;
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-,
N
o
~

~
o.
~
~

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~
o
~0.
 1.5. EN ISO 16373-1 :2015
ISO 16373-1:2015(E)

AnnexA
(informative)

Explanatory table of colourants (dyes and pigments) used in

various textile materials

© ISO 20 15 - All rights reserved 13

 .... Table A.l- Explanatory table of coloul'ants (dyes and pigments) used in various textile materials Vi
"" Dye classes (5)
o
....
Classes of colourants Acid Metal complex Azoic Basic Chrome Direct Disperse Reactive Sulfur VAT Pigment '"
w

....'"
(ll) (5.2) (5,.;l) (SA) (5..» (5..6) (!i.1) (5.ll) (5.2) (!i..l.Il) w,
Natural fibres
N
XX XX o
Animal fibres
Wool XX (X) X X
....
(,/1
Silk XX X = (X) X (X) X (X) (X) X ~
1'1
Cotton, ~

Hemp. Flax,
Cellulose based
Sisal, Ram ie.
(X) XX XX XX XX X
Jute
Man-made fibres
Polyester XX X
Polyamide XX XX X (X) X X X X X
Triacetare XX X
fI'
Acetate,
XX X XX (X) (X) X m
secondary acetate z
Acrylic XX (X) Cii
o
Viscose (X) XX XX X XX X ~
en
Chlorofibre X X w
X means that the dye class is used - (X) means that the dye class is used in exceptional cases - XX means that the dye class is commonly used .
'"'t'
~

N
o
~
(It

@
0;
o
N
o
~
~
,
1;
"
;;;.
~
or
;;
••
~
~
 1.5. EN ISO 16373-1 :2015
ISO 16373-1:2015(E)

Annex B
(informative)

Comparison between ISO 16373-2 and ISO 16373-3: Recovery rates

The data as reported in Table 8 I are based on a study which has been ca rried out by Japan in 2010/2011.

© ISO 20 15 - All rights reserved 15

..
a-
Recovery rate
%
Table B.l - ISO 16373-2 and ISO 16373-3 : Recovery rates

Acid Red 114 Acid Red 26

Basic Red
9
Disperse
Orange 11
Disperse Yellow 3 Direct Red 28 Direct Black 38
.
Vi
o
a-
w
Polyamide
(1 %)
Wool
(0.2 %)
Polyamid e
(1 %)
Wool
(0.2 %)
Acrylic
(0.75 %)
Polyester
(1 %)
Polyamide
(0,75 %)
Silk
(0,75 %)
Cotton
(7 %) ..."
w

N
ISO 16373-2
(pyridi ne -water solutio n)
89 95 73 88 35 44 92 101 60 ...o
(J1
~
t'l
ISO 16373-3 ~

(triethylamine methanol 76 16 73 7,6 0,5 19 84 75 12

s_~lut~~~ ___ ------ _ ._ . - -~

~
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~

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~

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o
~

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o
N
o
~

'",
,~
';;'
".

"~"
~
0.
 1.5. EN ISO 16373-1 :2015
ISO 16373-1:2015(E)

Bibliography

[1] ISO 2076. Textiles - Man-made fibres - Generic names

[2] ISO 6938. Textiles - Natllral fibres - Generic names and definitions

[3] ISO/ TR 11827. Textiles - Composition testing - Identification offibres

Identification of dye classes of dyes

[4] GILES C.H .. BASIIiR AIIMAD M .• DANDEKA R S.D .. McKEY R.B. Identification of App li cation Classes
of dyes on Fibres .jollrnol of the SOCiety of Dyers and Colourists. 1962

[5] SUBRAMANIA RV.R., & TARAPOI1EWALA KS. Identification of Application Classes of dyes on
Man-Made Fibres.journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists, 1972

[6] UNI997-1000:1939. RicelTa del carattere tintorio della materia colorante impiegata nella tintllra
delle fibre tessili vegetali e artificia/i cellulosiche eSc/lisa raion all acetato {Search for the dye
c/asses of coloring matter IIsed in dyeing of vegetable textile fibres and artificial cellulosic fibres
excluded all acetate}
[7] DONZE J.-J. Colorant Textile s. Techniques de I'Ingeni eu r-, 1988
Aromatic amines determination
[8] EN 14362-1:2012Textiles - Methods for determination of certain aromatic amines derived from
aza colorants - Part 1: Detection of the use of certain aza colorants accessible with and without
ex tracting the fibres

[9] EN 14362·3:2011, Textile - Methods Jor the determination of certain aromatic amines derived
from aza colorants - Part 3: Detection of the use of certain aza colorants, which may release
4·aminoazobenzene

[10] Chinese standard: GBIT 17592, Textiles-Determinati on of the banned azo color-ants

© ISO 2015 - All rights reserved 17

 1.5. EN ISO 16373-1:2015
150 16373-1:2015(E)

IC5 59.080.01
Price based on 17 pages

© ISO 2015 - All rights reserved