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When it comes to retaining walls, concrete blocks are fairly

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How to Build a Concrete Block Retaining Wall
A step by step guide to building a concrete block retaining
wall.

1. Selecting your Concrete Block

When selecting concrete blocks for your retaining wall

you will want to make sure that they have some type of
locking feature. This could be a lip on the back of the
block, a tongue and groove connection, or a locking pin
configuration. This will make sure that the block do not
slide forward from the back pressure created by the
hillside you are trying to retain.

Check your local codes to see if you need permits or

engineering for your particular wall. In some cases,
walls over 4 feet tall could require engineering.

2. Layout and Excavation

Start by laying out exactly where you would like your

retaining wall to go and using marking paint to map out
the area. Then you will need to cut out the hillside. This
can be done with a shovel for low walls or for larger
projects, a machine may be required (such as a tractor,
mini skid steer, or mini excavator). When excavating for
a wall 3-4 feet or taller, not only do you need to cut out
a level spot where the wall will go, but you will need to
cut back into the hillside as far back as your wall is tall.
For example, if you have a 4ft wall you will need to cut
 4ft out behind the wall.

3. Preparing the Footing

The retaining wall you build will only be as good as the

footing that it sits on. After excavation, lay out the wall
location again on your new grade. Then dig out a tench
for your footing. The footing should be 16in wide (or
more depending on you block depth) and 6-8in of
compacted crushed gravel. The depth of the trench
should also include the height of one full row of blocks
which will be buried below the finished grade. So if your
blocks are 6in tall, your footing trench should be 12-14″
deep.

With the correct depth for your footing, compact 6-8in

of 3/4″ crushed gravel making sure that the finished
footing is level (side to side and front to back). Filter
fabric can also be installed below the footing to help
 prevent and settling.

4. Setting the First Course

The first course of block is the most important course

in the entire wall. This is because there is really no
adjustment of the rows once you get going. The first
course needs to be perfectly in place and level. Using a
long level and a dead blow hammer, set your blocks in
place, making minor adjustments to achieve level side
to side. Check adjacent blocks with your level to make
sure those are set in the same level plane and there are
no low spots or high spots. When setting the first
course, the blocks may be tipped ever so slightly back.
They should be near level front to back but if anything
the wall should be leaning back into the hillside ever so
slightly.

Take your time to make sure this first course is perfect,

 it will make the rest of the project go a lot smoother.

5. Installing a Drain Line

All retaining walls need to have a way for water to

escape, or else the water will saturate the soil and
create an excess surcharge on your wall which could
result in failure. To prevent this you will need to place a
4 inch perforated drain line behind the first course of
block that leads out to daylight for water to drain freely.
Non-woven filter fabric (https://amzn.to/49cGKHm)
should also be installed below the pipe and up the back
of the hillside. This will prevent any silt and soil from
working its way into your drainage stone behind the
wall and clogging up that area, rendering it useless.

Woven filter fabric should not be used as it can create

hydrostatic pressure by not allowing enough water to
 pass through, essentially creating a dam.

6. Stacking Blocks and Backfill

When stacking the blocks, make sure to stagger the

seams and assure there is no pebbles or material
between the blocks that would create an uneven
placement.

Backfill behind the wall and in between any gaps in the

blocks every course or two with washed (or “clean”)
3/4″ gravel and make sure to encase that drainage
stone with your filter fabric. This will allow proper
drainage without the fines from regular gravel or soil
 clogging up the drainage field.

7. Cutting Blocks

In some cases you may need to cut a block. This can be

done with a masonry chisel and small sledge hammer
or a masonry diamond cutting blade on an angle
grinder or concrete saw. Take proper precautions to
avoid concrete dust as it is harmful.

8. Installing Geogrid when Necessary

For walls over 3-4 feet in height, or walls that will be

supporting poor soil, you will need to install geogrid
(https://amzn.to/3Siw3Nh) which will reinforce the wall
by stabilizing the ground behind it. Geogrid
(https://amzn.to/3Siw3Nh) is installed between layers
of block (minimum of 16″ between geogrid layers) and
laid back into the gravel backfill as far back as the wall
is tall. For example, if you have a 6ft wall you will need
to lay 6ft of geogrid behind the wall. Some geogrid is
uniaxial, which means that the strength is only in one
direction, while others are biaxial, meaning the strength
of the material is in both directions. Take note of this
and roll out your geogrid so that the strength is going
back into the hillside.

There is a thing called angle of repose, which is

essentially the angle that the soil wants to settle to if
the wall was not present. This creates back pressure on
the wall, and if not stabilized, can result in failure. By
installing geogrid, the unstable wedge of soil behind the
wall is stabilized and the angle of repose is moved back
into the hillside, relieving your wall of that added
pressure.
 9. Adhering the Top Course and Caps

Since the top row of stone or caps wont have the

weight of any blocks above it to prevent it from moving,
it will require an adhesive to assure the blocks or caps
stay where you want them. For this we used DAP All
Purpose Adhesive & Filler
(https://www.dap.com/products-projects/product-
categories/patch-repair/concrete/adhesive-filler/)
which is perfect for this because it is a 2 part epoxy
that creates a strong bond between the two surfaces.
Plus, it’s weatherproof immediately and can even be
used to recreate any chipped or broken areas.

10. Cover Drain Field and Dress with Topsoil

Once the wall is in place and your drainage stone is

backfilled within 6-12″ from the top of the wall, the
 drainage stone can be covered with filter fabric and the
last 6-12″ can be backfilled with good topsoil to allow
for planting grass or small plants.

Avoid planting trees or large shrubs on top of taller

retaining walls as the added dynamic pressure from
large growing roots and swaying trees could be
detrimental to your wall.

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Jamison Rantz
(https://rogueengineer.com/author/rogueengineer/)
More From This Author 
(https://rogueengineer.com/author/rogueengineer/)

I'm a Christian, father, husband and former aerospace

engineer. In my spare time I like to engineer furniture for the
weekend DIY'er like myself. In other words, I write plans for
 awesome looking furniture that are so easy it will blow your
mind! (No woodworking experience required.)

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