Group 4

WOOD
 What is wood?
Wood is a raw material of
plant origin. It is found in
trunks of tress, which
grow every year, forming
ringsnin that very same
trunk, these circles or
rings are called grains
and they are unique in
each tree
MATERIALS FEATURES OF WOOD PROPERTIES
ANISOTROPY
All types of wood have three directions:
Axial, Radial, and Tangential.
The axial direction is the direction
in which the tree grows (direction of
the fibers).
The Radial direction is perpendicular
to the axial, in the direction of the
spokes, it cuts the axis of the trunk.
The Tangential is parallel to the
radial direction, in the direction of the
grain and cutting the annual rings.
MATERIALS FEATURES OF WOOD PROPERTIES

HYGROSCOPICITY
Hygroscopicity is the ability of wood to absorb moisture from the
environment.
DENSITY
One of the most important properties of wood is density. Each type of
wood has a weight depending on the species and the climatic conditions
where the tree has grown.
CLEAVABILITY
The cleavability is the resistance that the wood opposes to the transverse
tensile stress before breaking due to the separation of its fibers.
MATERIALS FEATURES OF WOOD PROPERTIES

TOUGHNESS
Toughness has a lot to do with weight and all woods can be divided
into three groups.

FLEXIBILITY
The flexibility of wood is measured in the ability of the wood to bend
without breaking and without returning to its initial position.

STABILITY
Stability is the reaction that wood will have to changes in temperature.
MATERIALS FEATURES OF WOOD PROPERTIES

OPTIC
Colection
Each wood has its color and texture. Some woods, thanks to their grain or knots,
enhance their appearance.
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur
SMELL
adipiscing elit. Vestibulum ornare eros eget
tristique bibendum. Fusce at quam nulla.
The smell is produced in the heartwood of the wood thanks to some natural
Nulla at gravida metus. Mauris sollicitudin
chemical components of the wood. The heartwood is the central part of the trunk.
risus sapien, et ultricies erat dapibus in.
Nulla facilisi. Praesent purus metus, iaculis
sed ultricies quis, suscipit quis nisi.

BIOLOGICAL
Vestibulum sit amet efficitur sapien.

Wood is a living, biodegradable good, so it rots and can be affected by insects,

www.reallygreatsite.com fungi and bacteria.
MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF WOOD

RESISTANCE
The heavier a wood is, tge more resistance it will normally have.

TRACTION
The greatest resistance of a wood is in the direction of the fibres and the least
in a perpendicular direction to them. Tensile rupture occurs suddenly.
COMPRESSION
The denser the wood, the more resistance to compression

FLEXION
It is an effort applied in the horizontal direction of the fibers, this causes
the upper fibers to shorten and the lower ones to lengthen.
MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF WOOD

ELASTICITY
This value varies a lot depending on the species and how the load is applied
and for how long.
BUCKLING OF WOOD
It is when the wood, after applying a compression, bends on the side of least
resistance.
FATIGUE
Maximum stress that a wood can withstand before breaking
CUTTING STRENGTH
As the name itself indicates, it is the resistance to cutting of the wood.
MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF WOOD

SPECIAL WOOD PROPERTIES

ACOUSTICS
A wooden structure bounces the sound, so it is used in
spaces where we want the sound to reach all sides by
bouncing and not going through the material.

THERMAL
Due to its porosity, wood is not a good conductor
of heat and is therefore limited as a thermal
insulator.
CLASSIFICATION OF WOODS

SOFTWOODS
Softwoods are the wood
and lumber which are
milled from conifer trees.
Pine tree
Scientifically known as
Gymnosperms, Conifer
trees are any trees which
have needles and
produce cones.
Cedar tree
CLASSIFICATION OF WOODS

HARDWOODS
Hardwoods come from any
trees which do not produce
needles or cones. These
trees are most commonly
are known as deciduous Maple tree

trees, more scientifically

known as angiosperms.

Oak tree
CLASSIFICATION OF WOODS
Engineered Wood:
Manufactured Wood Products
The third type of wood you may encounter are engineered
woods. Engineered wood does not occur naturally in the
environment but instead are manufactured.

Sawmill waste
Sawmills
CLASSIFICATION OF WOODS

Strand board Plywood

Popular examples of engineered woods include Plywood,
Oriented Strand Board, Medium Density Fiber Board, and
Composite Board. Wood veneers can also sometimes be classified
as engineered wood, since it often needs to be manipulated either
through specialized cutting techniques or joining pieces together
to achieve a specific size or wood grain patterning.
STRUCTURE OF WOOD
Early wood
keeps the tree growing by delivering
water and nutrients.
Late wood
that gives wood the majority of its
strength.
Pith
at the very central of the tree is the
pith, which is the oldest part of the
tree.
Growth ring
a ring of wood indicating one year's growth, seen in the transverse
section of stems and roots of woody plants growing in temperate
Xylem ray climates.
a transverse sheet of soft, living cells wholly within the wood or xylem
and extending from the pith of a stem to the phloem.
 STRUCTURE OF WOOD
Vascular cambium
is the main meristem in the stem,
producing undifferentiated wood cells
inwards and bark cells outwards.
Heart wood
the older harder non living central
wood of trees that is usually darker,
denser, less permeable, and more
durable than the surrounding
sapwood.
Sap wood
is the outer layers of recently formed
wood between the heart wood and the
bark, containing the functioning vascula
tissue.
STRUCTURE OF WOOD
Inner bark
is pipeline through which food is
passed to the rest of the tree.
two types of inner bark
*Secondary phloem
is a type of phloem that forms
from the Vascular cambium during
the secondary growth.
*cork cambium
Outer bark
is the tissue seen in several
composed of dead tissue, protects
Vascular plants as a portion
the inner region from injury, disease
of the epidermis.
and desiccation.
DEFECTS OF WOODS:NATURAL
1.) WIND CRACKS IN TIMBER
If the wood is exposed continuously to
the high-speed winds, the outer surface
shrinks and forms crack externally, which
are called wind cracks.

2.) TWISTED FIBERS IN TIMBERS

When the tree in its younger age is exposed
to high-speed winds, the fibers of wood gets
twisted. This type of wood is not suitable for
sawing. So, this can be used for making poles,
posts, etc.
DEFECTS OF WOODS:NATURAL
3.) SHAKES IN TIMBER
Shakes are nothing but cracks which separate the wood fibers partly or
completely. Different shakes are formed in different conditions as
follows:
 DEFECTS OF WOODS:NATURAL
4.) UPSETS 5.) RIND GALLS 6.) BURLS
Burls are uneven
Rind galls are
Upsets, a defect of projections on the body
curved swellings of
timber in which the fibers of the tree during its
trees which are formed
of the wood are crushed growth. These are mainly
at a point where a
and compressed by fast due to the effect of
branch of the tress is
blowing winds or shocks and injuries
improperly removed or
inappropriate chopping of received by the tree
fell down.
trees. during its young age.
 DEFECTS OF WOODS:NATURAL
7.) WATER STAIN 8.) CHEMICAL STAIN 9.) DEAD WOOD

When the wood is in contact Chemical stain is formed on the The wood obtained
with water for some time, the wood by the action of any from the cutting of the
water will damage the color external chemical agents like dead tree is light in
of the wood and forms a reaction by the gases present in weight and is actually
stain on its surface. This the atmosphere etc. The stain defected. It is reddish in
defect is called as water area gets discolored in this color and its strength is
stain. defect. very less.
 DEFECTS OF WOODS:NATURAL
10.)KNOT
The central part or stem of a tree is majorly used in the
conversion of timber. Branches from the stem are removed, and
the whole rounded stem is taken. But the base of branches forms
a mark on the stem, which results in dark-colored stains on the
surface after conversion. This dark-colored stains are due to the
continuity of wood fibers. These dark-colored rings are known as
knots.
11.) COARSE GRAIN DEFECT IN TIMBER
The age of a tree can be known by the number of annual
rings. For fast-growing trees, the gap between the annual
rings is very large. This type of tree is called as coarse grained
tress, and timber obtained from them is of less strength.
 DEFECTS OF WOODS:NATURAL
12.)TIMBER FOXINESS 13.) DRUXINESS 14.) CALLUS
When the timber is stored without Druxiness is a defect The wound of the
proper ventilation, the trees growing of timber in which the top tree is covered by
near the banks of water bodies and surface of timber soft skin, which is
over matured trees may exhibit this indicates white spots. called a callus.
type of defect. Foxiness is generally These spots will give the
indicated by red or yellow spots. access to fungi.
 DEFECTS IN TIMBER DUE TO FUNGI
1.) DRY ROT IN TIMBER

Dry rot is caused by a certain type of fungi

that eats wood for their living. They make
food by converting timber into dry powder
form. This occurs mainly when there is no
ventilation of air or if the wood improperly
seasoned.
Absence of sunlight, dampness, presence
of sap will increase the growth of dry rot,
causing fungi. This can be prevented by
using well-seasoned wood and also by
painting the timber surface with copper
sulfate.
 DEFECTS IN TIMBER DUE TO FUNGI
2.) WET ROT IN TIMBER
Wet rot is caused by fungi that decompose
the timber and convert it into a grayish-brown
powder form. Wet rot causing fungi growths
mainly when there are alternate dry and wet
conditions of timber.
3.) BROWN ROT IN TIMBER
The cellulose compounds of the
wood are consumed by certain
types of fungi, which then makes
the wood brownish, and this defect
is called brown rot.
 DEFECTS IN TIMBER DUE TO FUNGI
4.) WHITE ROT IN TIMBER

Some types of fungi attack lignin of timber and

leaves cellulose compounds; hence the wood will turn
into white color, which is called white rot.

5.) BLUE STAIN IN TIMBER

Blue stain is a defect caused by some kind of fungi,

which makes the timber bluish.
 DEFECTS IN TIMBER DUE TO FUNGI
6.) HEART ROT IN TIMBER

Heart rot is generated in the trees when fungi attack

the heartwood through its newly formed branch. This
type of fungi makes the tree hollow by consuming
heartwood. This defect is known as heart rot.

7.) SAP STAIN IN TIMBER

When the moisture content in the timber is more
than 25%, some types of fungi attack the sapwood
and make it discolored. This type of defect is known
as a sap stain.
DEFECTS IN TIMBER DURING SEASONING

1.) BOW
When the converted timber is stored for a
longer time, some timber planks may have a
curve along its length, which is known as
Bow.

2.) CUP
If the timber planks curve along its width,
then it is called Cupping of timber.
 DEFECTS IN TIMBER DURING SEASONING
3.) TWIST
Twist forms when the timber piece
is distorted spirally along its length.
It looks like a propeller blade after
twisting.

4.) WARP
Warping is the loss of shape of
wood due to stresses developed
during drying. Cupping bowing,
twisting of wood come under
warping.
DEFECTS IN TIMBER DURING SEASONING

5.) CHECK
Check is the formation of a crack
in the wood, which will separate the
wood fibers. They form due to over
seasoning of timber.
6.) SPLIT

Split forms when a check extends

from one end to the other end, which
will split the wood into a number of
pieces.
 DEFECTS IN TIMBER DURING SEASONING

7.) HONEYCOMBING
Honey combing occurs in the inner part
of the timber, which cannot be identified
by just seeing. It is mainly due to stresses
developed during the drying of timber.

8.) CASE HARDENING

Case is nothing but the top surface of
wood, which dries rapidly during
seasoning, but the inner part didn’t.
Then this defect is called as case
hardening.
 DEFECTS IN TIMBER DURING SEASONING

9.) COLLAPSE
During drying, some parts of the wood may
dry rapidly while some may not. Because of
this, improper drying shrinkage of wood
occurs, that results in the defect called
collapse.
10.) RADIAL SHAKES
Radial shakes develop after the tree being
felled down and exposed to the sun for
seasoning. In this case, the cracks run
radially from bark to the pith through annual
rings.
DEFECTS IN TIMBER DURING CONVERSION
1.) DIAGONAL GRAIN DEFECT IN TIMBER
During the conversion of timber,
different cutting saws are used. The
cutting should be done properly. If
there is any improper cutting by the
saw, then a diagonal grains will appear.
2.) TORN GRAIN
In the conversion, many tools are used. If
any of the tools or any other heavy things
are dropped accidentally on the finished
surface of timber it will cause small
depression, which is called torn grain.
DEFECTS IN TIMBER DURING CONVERSION
3.) CHIP MARK
When the timber is cut through the
planning machine, the parts of the
machine may form chip marks on it.
Usually, they are indicated by chips
on the finished surface.
4.) WANE
The edge part of the timber log
contains a rounded edge on one side
because of its original rounded surface.
This rounded edge is called wane.
DEFECTS IN TIMBER DUE TO INSECTS

1. TERMITES IN TIMBER

3.) MARINE BORERS IN

TIMBER

2.) BEETLES IN TIMBER

METHODS OF SAWING
PLAIN SAWN
the plain sawing method is the most
common. it consists of sawing boards off the
log in strips parallel to the pith. These
boards are then sawn lengthwise again.
Every board sawn this way has a unique
appearance. Floors made with plain sawn
boards have greater color and pattern
variations than floors made with boards
sawn using other methods.
METHODS OF SAWING
QUARTER SAWN
As the name implies, the quarter
sawing method starts by sawing the
log into quarters. Boards are then
sawn off the top parts of the faces of
each quarter, cutting through the
growth rings at about a 90- degree
angle. This method usually produces
fairly uniform boards with similar grain
patterns. These patterns are created
by the rings in the oak.
METHODS OF SAWING
RIFT SAWN
if we continue sawing boards off
the faces of the quartered log, we
get rift sawn boards, which are
differentiated by the fact that the
growth rings on the outer edge of
the log are different from those
nearer the pith. the grain on the top
of the boards will be linear, while
the grain on the ends will be
somewhat slanted.
TYPES OF LUMBER
Lumber
is referred to as either "softwood" or "hardwood." The terms
"softwood" and "hardwood" can be confusing since some softwood
lumber is harder than some hardwood lumber. Generally, however,
hardwoods are more dense and harder than softwoods. In addition,
lumber can be further classified by the name of the tree from which
it comes.
The quality of softwood lumber is classified according to its intended use as
being yard, structural, factory, or shop lumber. Yard lumber consists of those
grades, sizes, and patterns generally intended for ordinary building purposes.
TYPES OF LUMBER
Hardwood
Comes from angiosperm trees that are not monocots; trees are
usually broad-leaved. Has vessel elements that transport water
throughout the wood; under a microscope, these elements appear as
pores.
Softwood
Comes from gymnosperm trees which usually have needles and cones.
Medullary rays and tracheids transport water and produce sap. When viewed
under a microscope, softwoods have no visible pores because of tracheids
TYPES OF LUMBER
TYPES OF LUMBER
TYPES OF LUMBER
HARDWOOD
-Molave
One of the hardest local woods,
Molave has a fine texture that
makes it smooth to the touch. It is
ideal for window frames,
shipbuilding, structural posts,
railroad tracks, and other outdoor
applications.
TYPES OF LUMBER
-Narra
Narra is a popular tropical wood that has
tones that range from yellow to red. Narra is
ideal for furnishings, floor planks, and wall
panels because of its fine grain texture. The
wood itself is lustrous and has an attractive
odor.
-Yakal
This resinous wood with yellow to golden-red
tones is another local mahogany type. A high-grade
timber, yakal can tolerate harsh hot and cold
weathers.
TYPES OF LUMBER
-Tanguile
A moderately hard reddish wood, Tanguile is
one of the seven local woods often referred to as
Philippine Mahogany. This abundant wood type
boasts of fine ribbon or straight grain. It's
relatively soft and easy to work on, but resilient
enough for outdoor construction.
TYPES OF LUMBER
SOFTWOOD
Softwoods are ideal for structural panels and other building components for
many reasons. Softwood, such as southern yellow pine, is lighter in weight
(not strength) than hardwood, making roofing and sheathing work less of a
pain. Softwood trees grow faster than hardwood trees, feeding timber mills
and wood-products plants at a faster rate and thus keeping end-users’ costs
down. Softwoods are notoriously less expensive than hardwoods.

Because softwoods grow at a faster rate, sustainability is much more

attainable. Softwood trees are a very renewable resource, and the
replanting of them has grown the United States timber basket in
softwood-friendly regions. Softwoods are also more readily available,
making up 80% of all timber.
Examples of Softwood trees:
Pine lumber
-is pine that has been cut
into boards and so-called
dimensional lumber.
The boards are most
commonly used for
flooring, shelving, and
furniture.

Dimensional lumber is
used extensively in the
framing of houses and
other structures, as well as
for the interior walls of
larger buildings, although
aluminum framing
materials are gaining in
popularity.
 Examples of Softwood trees:

Cedar
Cedar tends to be used for its
natural beauty, which means
it isn't typically hidden in the
framing of a construction
project. With this visual
appeal, cedar lends itself to be
used in many applications
like fencing, decking, siding,
and trim.
 Examples of Softwood trees:
Redwood
Common Uses: Veneer,
construction lumber,
beams, posts, decking,
exterior furniture, and
trim. Burls and other
forms of figured
Redwood are also used in
turning, musical
instruments, and other
small specialty items.
 Examples of Softwood trees:
Spruce
Spruce is a lightweight,
stable, rot-resistant, and
affordable softwood.
Lumber is a versatile and
convenient building
material for many
purposes. Due to its
lightweight and low
hardness, It is easy to work
with tools.
LUMBER MEASURING

Lumber
is generally sized according to thickness, as in the case of rough sawn lumber,
or in specific widths, thicknesses and/or lengths as in the case of dimensional
lumber. Here we will define each to help you better understand the sizing
methods used when referring to lumber "size".
LUMBER MEASURING
Dimensional Sizing
This measuring method is probably the most recognized by the average
person. It is used in almost all "Do-It-Yourself" type stores that sell lumber,
or any place selling lumber for construction purposes. We recognize such
“sizes” as 2x4, 2x6, 4x4, 1x2, etc. This measurement refers to the thickness
and width of the lumber, with the length varying. In reality, these
measurements are not a true measurement of the lumber thickness or
width. The true measurement of a 2x4 is actually about 1.5″ x 3.5″. When
the board is first rough sawn from the log, it is a true 2x4, but the drying
process and planning of the board reduce it to the finished 1.5″ x 3.5″ size.
The lumber is then sold as a “2x4” because the cost of the drying and
machining are figured in. It is also much easier to refer to a board as a
“2x4”, rather than a “1.5 x 3.5”.
 LUMBER MEASURING
Quarters "Sizing
In the case of rough sawn lumber, the "Quarters" sizing method is usually used by
mills that sell rough lumber for woodworking purposes. The "Quarters" method
refers only to the thickness of the wood as widths and lengths vary depending on
the log the wood is cut from. Generally, a woodworker will plane the boards to the
desired thickness and most likely rip the boards and glue them up into joined
panels to get the desired width. Rough sawn lumber comes in "true" thicknesses
as reflected by the "quarters" size.
LUMBER MEASURING

Board Foot Sizing

Board Foot: Rough sawn lumber is usually sold by
the "board foot" (bd. ft.). A board foot is equal to a
piece of wood 12 inches long x 12 inches wide and 1
inch thick, or 144 cubic inches. To figure the board
foot measurement of a piece of wood, multiply the
length x width x thickness in inches, then divide by
144.
 SEASONING
The process of correctly drying timber in
order to remove moisture in the cells of the
wood walls.

Reasons for seasoning

To change and improve the properties
of wood.
To make a correct percentage of
shrinking of woods.
To make a confident use of woods.
To reduce the adverse behavior of
woods.
TWO MAIN METHODS OF SEASONING OF TIMBER
1.) Natural Seasoning 2.) Artificial Seasoning
 NATURAL SEASONING
Seasoning of woods or timbers using natural elements is called natural
seasoning. eg. water and air seasoning.

a.) Water Seasoning

Removal of wood sap immersing
logs into water flow is called water
seasoning. It is carried out on the banks of
the river while thicker ends are kept
towards upstream. After that, the logs are
allowed to dry. Disadvantage: It is time
consuming such as 2 to 4 weeks generally
NATURAL SEASONING

b.) Air Seasoning

Exposing the woods to air

for seasoning.
ARTIFICIAL SEASONING

a.) Seasoning by Boiling

Seasoning by boiling wood logs in hot water is called seasoning by boiling.
Drying is done after proper boiling. For a large amount of wood, it is done in an
enclosed place where hot steam is passed.
b.) Chemical Seasoning
Reduction of moisture using salt solution is
called chemical seasoning. After the
absorption of water by the solution logs are
let to dry.
ARTIFICIAL SEASONING

c.) Kiln Seasoning

Seasoning of wood by using a

large chamber or oven where there
is a good process for the circulation
of hot air.
 ARTIFICIAL SEASONING
Kiln Seasoning can be done by 2 processes such as :

i. Progressive kiln Seasoning ii. Compartmental Seasoning

ARTIFICIAL SEASONING
d.) Electrical Seasoning

Dry wood is non-conductor of

electricity while green timber is a
conductor, so, can pass alternating
current. Thus in this method
alternating current is used for drying
the cells of wood by creating heat.
 Qualities Improved by Seasoning

By seasoning, some common known qualities are improved which are

mentioned below:

1.) Strength 6.) Gluing

2.) Hardness 7.) Resistance to insect attack
3.) Durability 8.) Electrical resistance
4.) Weight 9.) Heat content
5.) Painting and finishing
PRESERVATION
Coal Tar
Coal tar is heated and obtained
liquid hot tar is applied on timber
surface using brush. Coal tar
contains unpleasant smell and does
not allow paint on it. So, it is used
for door frames, window frames etc.
It is very cheap and has good fire
resistance.
PRESERVATION
ASCU
ASCU is a special preservative which is available in powder form. It
is dissolved in water to get preservative solution. It should be added
6 parts by weight of ASCU in 100 parts by weight of water. The final
solution is applied on timber by spraying. This solution does not
contain any odor. It is useful mainly to get rid of from white ants.
ASCU contains hydrated arsenic pent oxide, copper sulphate or blue
vitriol and sodium dichromate or potassium dichromate in it. After
applying ASCU, the timber can be coated with paint, varnished etc.
PRESERVATION
Chemical Slats
Chemical salts like copper sulphate,
mercury chloride and zinc chloride
are used as preservative which can
be dissolved in water to get liquid
solution. They are odorless and do
not generate flames when contact
with fire.
PRESERVATION
Oil Paints
Oil paints are suitable for well-
seasoned wood. They are generally
applied in 2 or 3 coats. Oil paints
prevents timber from moisture. If
timber is not seasoned, then oil
paints may lead to decay of timber
by confining sap.
PRESERVATION
Solignum Paints
Solignum paints are applied in hot
condition using brush. They are well
suitable for preserving timber from
white ants. Solignum paints can be
used by adding color pigments so,
the timber has good appearance.
PRESERVATION
Creosote Oil
Creosote oil is prepared by the distillation of tar. It is black or brown in
color. It contains unpleasant smell. It is applied in a special manner.
Firstly, the timber is well seasoned and dried. Then, it is placed in
airtight chamber and inside air is pumped out. Finally creosote oil is
pumped into the chamber with high pressure about 0.7 to 1 N/mm2 at
a temperature of 50oC. After allowing it for 2 hours, the timber absorbs
creosote oil sufficiently and taken out from the chamber. Creosote oil is
flammable so, it is not used for timber works in fireplaces. It is
generally used for wood piles, poles, railway sleepers etc.
PRESERVATION
Creosote Oil
PRESERVATION
Wood Preservative Pesticides
The main types of wood preservative pesticides are:
1) oil-borne, 2) waterborne, and 3) fumigants.

The effectiveness of the different chemicals in each of

these classes varies depending on exposure conditions.

The tree exposure categories for preservatives are:

1.) Ground contact

2.) Aboveground contact
3.) Marine exposure
TREATMENT
Pressure Treatments
Pressure treatment - the wood is
placed into an airtight steel cylinder and
immersed in a preservative. Increasing
pressure drives the chemical into the
wood.
TREATMENT
Pressure Treatments
Two(2) types of processes.

The full cell process provides maximum

retention of the preservative.

The empty-cell process obtains deep

penetration with a relatively low retention
of preservative
 TREATMENT
Non-Pressure Treatments
1.) Brushing, spraying, and pouring are generally done on cut or
machined surfaces of previously treated wood. Penetration of preservative
into wood is superficial, resulting mostly from capillary action. Creosote or
other oilborne materials and water-borne salts can be used.
TREATMENT
Non-Pressure Treatments
2.)Dipping consists of immersing wood in a
preservative solution for several seconds to
several minutes. It allows better penetration
into checks and cracks of wood but is
unsatisfactory for uses subject to abrasion.
There is little protection against termites
and it is not recommended for wood used
in contact with the ground.
TREATMENT
Non-Pressure Treatments
3.) Cold soaking well-seasoned wood for 2 to 7 days in a vat
containing a low-viscosity oil-borne preservative is simple and
relatively inexpensive. It is thought to give more protection than
dipping.

4.) Steeping - Either green or seasoned wood can be steeped for

several days in a tank full of water-borne preservative. Penetration
and retention varies depending on the types of wood and treatment
conditions
TREATMENT
Non-Pressure Treatments
5.) Thermal process treatment consists of immersing wood alternately in
separate tanks containing heated and cold preservative, either oil- or
waterborne (or in one tank which is first heated than allowed to cool).
* During the hot bath, air in the wood expands and some is forced out.
Heating improves penetration of preservatives.
* In the cold bath, air in the wood contracts, creating a partial vacuum,
and atmospheric pressure forces more preservative into the wood.
Temperature is critical; only use preservatives that can safely be heated.
TREATMENT
Non-Pressure Treatments
6.) Double diffusion process - In the double diffusion process, green
or partially seasoned wood is soaked first in one water-borne
preservative, then in another. The two chemicals diffuse into the wood
and then react to form a combination that is highly resistant to
leaching. The process converts leachable preservatives into stable
ones.
TREATMENT
Non-Pressure Treatments
7.) Preservative pads or bandages are used on-site with
previously-treated wood that is nearing the end of its protection time,
e.g., utility poles. The soil around the pole is removed and the
preservative (oil- or waterborne or paste) is applied to the surface,
injected or placed into drilled holes in the wood. The treated area is
then wrapped ("bandaged") with heavy duty water-resistant paper or
plastic film to contain the preservative at the site of application.
TREATMENT
Non-Pressure Treatments
7.) Preservative pads or bandages

Step 1 Step 2
TREATMENT
Non-Pressure Treatments
8.) Sap stain prevention is a temporary
treatment applied quickly to newly felled
green wood, preferably within 24 hours
after sawing. This is usually done at the
sawmill by carrying the logs through a
tank of treated solution to prevent growth
of sap stain fungi which can attack cut
wood quickly
TREATMENT
Pole Treatments
Utility poles are most prone to decay in the
groundline zone and the pole top. Pole treatments
can be used as an internal treatment for wood utility
poles or to help protect open bolt holes, pole tops,
and cross arms. Rod delivery systems are designed
to be installed by utility personnel and are
particularly well-suited for use in transmission spar
arms and X-braces
 WOOD COMPOSITES
a range of different derivative wood products, all of which are
created by binding the strands, fibers, or boards of wood
together. It’s also known as manmade wood, manufactured
board, or engineered wood.

Composite Wood Products

• ORIENTED STRAND BOARD (OSB).
- a panel product developed from wood particles.
- Primarily intended for indoor uses, such as
construction panels, but has yet to be extensively
used for furniture production.
 WOOD COMPOSITES

• PARTICLEBOARD
- a low-cost, highly versatile product develop as a
replacement for plywood and is commonly used for
flooring, cabinets, furniture, etc.
- for the most part, this product is not appropriate
for exterior uses.

• PLYWOOD
- a type of engineered wood made by adhering
several layers of veneer together.
WOOD COMPOSITES
• HARDBOARD
- another type of composite board that was developed
and represents a class of composite wood products.
- it is usually smooth on one side and may have an
imprinted fine mesh on the other.
Masonite
- a form of hardboard that is made without the use of
additional adhesives and utilizes the inherent strength of
wood fiber to provide stability.
- commonly used in the production of doors, desktops,
roofing walls, and canoes.
WOOD COMPOSITES
• BLOCK BOARD

- It is similar to plywood but is generally thicker. Commonly

used for decorative projects and furniture manufacturing.

• GLUE-LAMINATED TIMBER (GLULAM)

- an engineered product containing two or more layers of
wood glued together with the grain of the wood pieces.
- a type of composite wood product that can be
developed from pieces of weaker wood or even recycled
wood.
 WOOD COMPOSITES
• CROSS-LAMINATED TIMBER
- a quasi-ridge composite that has an uneven
number of layers.
- it is similar to glulam in that multiple layers of
wood are glued together but the direction of grain
within each layer alternates by a 90-degree angle.

• STEAM - PRESSED SCRIM LUMBER

- it is an example of a recently developed
engineered wood product.
- technically, it could be considered a form
of glue-laminated timber (glulam).
MILLWORK
a type of woodwork that comes from within a mill where the
cutting and construction of items is done with raw lumber.

Examples: carpentry, crown moldings, wall paneling, doors,

trim and molding
 MILLWORK
DOOR
A door is a piece of wood, glass, or metal, which is
moved to open and close the entrance to a building,
room, cupboard, or vehicle.
Types of Wood Doors
• Battened and Ledged Doors
are among the most conventional designs for
homes and sheds. It is particularly well suited to
narrow openings.
• Wooden Dutch Door
Its design has a split appearance that allows
users to open only the top half without unlatching
the bottom half.
MILLWORK
Types of Wood Door
• Bifold Doors
- ideal for the hotel and restaurant
industries. These also look good in
rooms with large balconies or lobbies
that extend to the outside decks.
• Wooden French Door

- It is mainly used in gardens, patios,

and even balconies.
MILLWORK
Types of wood door
• Panelled Door
- among the most traditional patterns for timber gates.
This type may feature a model that looks like one or
more grooved panels.

• Hollow Core Door

- These are lightweight, making them simple to
install. They are long and flat panes that are mostly
hollow on the inside and made of fiberboard or
laminated material.
MILLWORK
Types of wood door
• wooden Louvered Door
- They can be used to ventilate certain sections of your
home, and offer seclusion to open spaces or create room
separators. It may also be used to provide free passage of
light and air in interiors.
- This is suitable for closets, pantries, and warehouses.
• Barn Door
- These can be used in interiors as well as exteriors of the
home due to their versatility and flexibility.
- it is used in tiny spaces.
MILLWORK
Trim and molding
Trim and moldings are generally divided into categories according
to where they appear on the wall
MILLWORK
Trim and molding
• Baseboard
- covers the intersection between the floor
and wall and protects the bottom of the
wall from such things as a wet mop or a
vacuum cleaner.
• Base shoe
- In profile, it looks like a quarter
circle. Base shoe elaborates the
baseboard slightly but also serves to
cover any gap between the
baseboard and flooring material.
MILLWORK
Trim and molding
• Ceiling molding
- also called cornice or crown molding; it covers
the intersection between the wall and ceiling.

Different styles of crown molding

MILLWORK
Trim and molding
• Door and window casings
- create a frame around the door or window opening and hide the
gap between the jamb and the adjacent wall.
Door casing styles
• Mitered casings
connect the three parts—side pieces and
header casing—using angled, or mitered,
joints. Mitered casings can be plain or
elaborate with intricate details.
MILLWORK
Trim and molding
Door casing styles
• Butted door trim
combines two side casing boards with a wider
head casing that rests directly on top. The
wide head casing tends to draw the eye
upward, making this style an excellent choice
for homes with high ceilings.
• Colonial Style Casing
is a classic door casing found in many homes
throughout the United States. It features
raised edges and mitered corners and
complements many homes thanks to its
simple, elegant look without excess frills.
MILLWORK
Trim and molding
Door casing styles
• Ripple Effect
This door casing features mitered
corners and is built from the inside of
the door jamb outward. It combines
several layers of varying sizes to
achieve a complex yet attractive
design that would feel right at home in
any 19th-century Victorian-era home
or new Colonial Revival.
MILLWORK
Trim and molding
Window trim styles
• Prairie-style window trim
Prairie-style window trims have prominent
top and bottom trims, with simple and small
vertical trim on the side.
• Craftsman Style Exterior
window trim
Craftsman-style window trim focuses on just
the header, instead of both horizontal rails as
prairie-style does. It pairs well with modern
and more rustic styles.
MILLWORK
Trim and molding
Window trim styles
• Rosette Style
rosette style has circular patterns called
rosettes in the corners of the trim. It is
otherwise flat, balanced, and unflared. It
adds a very feminine beauty to the space.

• Casement Window Trim Style

These windows open sideways on a hinge.
They have a crank at the bottom to allow
for this mechanism.
 MILLWORK
Common Wood Materials
CEDAR WOOD
→ a common component in millwork as it
has a striking red hue along with the
straight grain. It also has a cedar scent
and holds strong in all types of
environments.
MAHOGANY
→ is commonplace in millwork as many
view it as a luxurious material. It has a
perfectly straight-grain aesthetic and an
eye-catching dark red-brown hue.
 MILLWORK
Common Wood Materials
MAPLE RED OAK WALNUT
→ it is also popular → is popular for
→ receives
as it is of comparably its strength and
admiration for its
high quality and can luxurious
durability and rich
help build items in aesthetic.
brown hue.
either a dark or light
brown color.
HARDWARE
HARDWARE
→In general terms, it refers to things such as tools, plants, machinery, fittings,
equipment and their parts.
CONSTRUCTION HARDWARE
→ is a term for metal and non-metal products and accessories used in
buildings or structures. It has practical and decorative effects.
CLASSIFICATIONS
• Door Hardware - All those products that are used either in door
decoration, maintenance, or in any other function come under door
hardware, such as door handles, fasteners, hinges, hooks, number
plates, knockers, etc.
 HARDWARE
DOOR HARDWARE
• LEVER AND KNOB
- is used to turn the door handle to open the door.
Levers come in many shapes and are pushed
downwards to open a door, while knobs are generally
round and require turning clockwise to unlatch a door.
• BACKPLATE OR ROSETTE
- It is called a backplate, as this is the plate
behind the lever or the knob. A backplate
is also known as a rosette or rose if it is
circular in shape.
 HARDWARE
DOOR HARDWARE
• SPINDLES, SCREWS AND FIXINGS
- The square metal bar that connects the door handles
on either side of the door is called the spindle.
- There is also a bathroom spindle with bathroom door
handles to operate bathroom locks with the thumbturn &
release mechanism.
- Some of the door handles have grub screws fitted in
the lever part. It can be loosened or tightened with the
Allen key provided with the door handle.
- due to the growing demand for hollow interior doors,
bolt-through fixings come with male-female assembly is
ideal for hollow doors .
 HARDWARE
DOOR HARDWARE
• LATCH AND DEADBOLT
- The spring-loaded metal part of the mechanism
that protrudes out of the door is called the latch.
This ensures the door is latched, i.e., keeps the
door closed.
- along with the latch, there is another metal part
that projects out of the door when keys are
operated and is called the deadbolt. It projects
outside the door. This keeps the door shut even
when the lever handle is turned down to open the
door.
HARDWARE
DOOR HARDWARE
• FOREND PLATE AND STRIKER PLATE
- The mortice latch or the mortice lock is fitted in
the door, then covered with the decorative metal
plate at the end of the door called the forend plate
---- makes the lock appear more decorative
- The striker plate is the metal plate installed on the
door frame or the doorpost and is placed right
opposite the mortice latch or mortice door lock. It is
only functional and keeps the door frame protected
from dents and scratches by repeatedly striking the
latch to close the door.
HARDWARE
CLASSIFICATIONS

• Window Hardware - smaller

components that are used to
install, fix and protect windows(
does not include window itself),
such as window extrusions,
fasteners, handles, hinges, locks
and many more.
 HARDWARE
CLASSIFICATIONS
• Cabinet Hardware - small components that make cabinets functional. These
products are made of materials like plastics, metals, and maybe glasses.
Cabinet components
Pull Knobs Hinges
Handles mounted to the Handles mounted to the
Attachments that
exterior of doors and exterior of doors and
secure the cabinet
drawers with two or drawers with a single screw
door to the frame
more screws and bolts. and bolt.
 HARDWARE
Cabinet components
BackPlates
Drawer Slides Door Catches Pieces of finished metal that
Attachments that secure rest between the door and
Attachments that
cabinet doors without self- pulls/knobs to protect a
facilitate the opening
closing hinges against the cabinet’s surface, cover
and removal of drawers.
frame. existing holes, or enhance
decorative hardware
 FASTENER MATERIALS
FASTENERS
- used in the construction industry to join two or
more objects together in a non-permanent or
permanent way.
FASTENER MATERIALS
• NAILS - greater shear strength without a nail's threading.
TYPE OF NAILS
• common nails
- work for general fastening projects, including construction
work like framing and structural assemblies, as well as
woodworking projects.
- has a round head and a sturdy shank that provides strength.
 FASTENER MATERIALS
TYPE OF NAILS
• BOX nails
- have a design like common nails but with a narrower shank.
This smaller diameter reduces the likelihood of splitting the
wood components
• DECK nails
- often have a checkered head for better contact with the
hammer. They may have smaller diameter shafts to minimize
splitting. Have a corrosion-resistant finish that allows then to
be used outdoors and with treated lumber.
• FURNITURE nails
-Furniture nails or upholstery nails are small nails with
relatively large, decorative heads. Their primary function is to
secure upholstery fabric to a wood frame.
 FASTENER MATERIALS
TYPE OF NAILS
• SIDING nails
- secure wood and fiber cement siding to a structure. Since
they're exposed to the elements, they're made of corrosion-
resistant material or have a corrosion-resistant finish.
• JOIST HANGER nails
- These nails have a sturdy shank to provide strength and
will often be hot-dipped galvanized for exterior use and for
use with treated lumber.
• pole barn nails
- for construction projects that use wood poles set in the
ground to form the foundation of the structure. Pole barn
nails have ring shanks for holding strength and a
corrosion-resistant finish that's compatible with pressure-
treated wood.
 FASTENER MATERIALS
TYPE OF NAILS
• Finish or finishing nails
- used in fine carpentry and cabinetry, and work well for
moulding. - have small heads that can either be driven
flush to the work piece or countersunk — driven below
the surface with a nail set — to conceal them from view..
• BRAD nails
- are smaller versions of finish nails. Like finish nails, brad
nails have heads only slightly larger than the diameter of the
shaft to allow countersinking.
• Flooring nails
- it include nails designed for use in pneumatic nailers for
installing some types of wood flooring, as well as short spiral
nails that secure flooring trim and nails with longer, ringed
shanks for installing underlayment or subflooring.
 FASTENER MATERIALS
FASTENER MATERIALS
• screw - threaded shaft with durable holding power.
TYPES OF WOOD SCREW
• Standard Wood Screws
- shank is only partially threaded – it’s smooth at the top. This
allows for the screw to pull the top piece towards the pieces
it is being screwed into rather than the screw getting stuck in
the top piece.
• Deck ScrewS
- typically, it has larger heads and deeper threads to be able
to bear as much load as possible. they tend to be made of
higher quality materials – oftentimes coated steel or copper
– than standard wood screws.
 FASTENER MATERIALS
FASTENER MATERIALS
• screw - threaded shaft with durable holding power.
TYPES OF WOOD SCREW
• Standard Wood Screws
- shank is only partially threaded – it’s smooth at the top. This
allows for the screw to pull the top piece towards the pieces
it is being screwed into rather than the screw getting stuck in
the top piece.
• Deck ScrewS
- shank is only partially threaded – it’s smooth at the top. This
allows for the screw to pull the top piece towards the pieces
it is being screwed into rather than the screw getting stuck in
the top piece.
 FASTENER MATERIALS
FASTENER MATERIALS
• screw - threaded shaft with durable holding power.
TYPES OF WOOD SCREW
• Standard Wood Screws
- shank is only partially threaded – it’s smooth at the top. This
allows for the screw to pull the top piece towards the pieces
it is being screwed into rather than the screw getting stuck in
the top piece.
• Deck ScrewS
- shank is only partially threaded – it’s smooth at the top. This
allows for the screw to pull the top piece towards the pieces
it is being screwed into rather than the screw getting stuck in
the top piece.
 FASTENER MATERIALS
TYPES OF WOOD SCREW
• Pocket Screws
- These screws have self-drilling tips and larger heads. The
first prevents the bottom piece from splitting while the larger
head helps with preventing the screw from being tightened
too deep and breaking the top piece.
• Lag Screws
- often called “lag bolts,” are wood screws ideal for joining
heavy boards. Their threads are much thicker than those of
regular screws, and so they provide a lot of support. It
normally used with washers. That helps spread the pressure
of the head on the wood across a larger area.
 FASTENER MATERIALS
TYPES OF WOOD SCREW
• Structural Screws
- similar to lag acrews in that they are designed to bear
significant loads. they are designed to be used in applications
where the screws breaking could cause significant problems.

• Drywall Screws
- The main use securing drywall panels to wooden or metal
surfaces. However, woodworkers also use them every now
and then because they are self-drilling and cheap.
 FASTENER MATERIALS
STAINLESS STEEL
→ is an alloy that combines low-carbon steel and chromium. It is
distinguished by its high resistance to corrosion.
SILICON BRONZE
→ alloy that combines copper, tin, and a small quantity of silicon. It is mainly
used in marine environment applications, where its superior corrosion
resistance makes it preferable to other materials for wooden boat
constructions.
BRASS
→ alloy that brings together copper and zinc, inheriting the strengths and
advantages of both those materials. Its resistance to corrosion is a distinctive
characteristic, and additionally, it is electrically conductive.
 FASTENER MATERIALS
ALLOY STEEL
→ essentially carbon steel distinguished by the addition of elements
like silicon, manganese, and chromium. This combination enhances the
capability of the alloy to strengthen and improve its ductility when heat
treated.

ALUMINUM
→ A variety of fasteners are crafted from aluminium alloys, with
elements like silicon, magnesium, iron and zinc, being useful additions to
enhance strength.
STEPS WHEN CHOOSING A LUMBER
Choosing lumber can be tricky! Even after you've decided on a type
of wood and calculated the dimensions you'll need, every board is
different and it takes time and patience to get lumber that will
really make your finished project sing.

Your paragraph text

STEP 1 -WRITE DOWN WHAT YOU NEED
Write down a detailed list of the boards you need or draft a quick annotated sketch.
Think about organizing boards into "like groups". For example, if you're building a very
simple bookshelf you'll need a set of boards for the shelves, top and bottom and a set of
two boards for the sides. Creating groups will help you make better decisions in the
lumber yard. You'll know which dimensions are flexible and which are fixed.

Your paragraph text

STEP 2: DECIDE ON A TYPE OF WOOD
Decide what type of wood you'll be using for your project. If you're building
interior furniture and want to have exposed wood, oak and maple are good
choices. Oak and maple are strong and stay relative straight while you're
working with them. If you're building interior furniture that will be painted,
medium density fiberboard (MDF) is solid and uniform. MDF is often available
in wider boards than hardwood boards. If you're building garage shelves or
Your paragraph text
framing projects that will be covered in another material (drywall, paint, ect.)
then save money by going with pine or fir. Pine and fir boards will be rougher
and are great for projects where perfection isn't the highest priority. If your
project is outdoors (garden fencing, decking), consider using redwood or cedar
which will hold up against the elements.
STEP 2: DECIDE ON A TYPE OF WOOD

Your paragraph text

 STEP 3: CHECK YOUR DIMENSIONS
Never assume the stated dimensions are accurate! Boards are sold by either their cross
sectional dimensions and their length or by volume, measured in board-feet. One BF is the
volume of a board 1 ft long, 1 ft wide, and 1 inch thick. Certain kinds of lumber are sold by
their pre-milling dimensions- for example the most commonly used board- a "2x4" or "two
by four"- is usually actually 1.75 inches by 3.5 inches. The two inches by four inches refers
to the dimensions before the board was finished to a relatively smooth rectangle.

Your paragraph text

STEP 4: CHECK FOR SPOT DEFECTS

Inspect your boards for spot defects (knots and cracks). The most
common lumber defect is a knot- this is where a branch was
connected to the main trunk causes the wood grain to spiral in a
circular pattern. The center of the circular pattern is a different
type of wood from the rest of the board and will frequently rot,
Your paragraph text
shrink, or fall out- leaving an unsightly hole and weak point in
the board. The other defect to look for are cracks. Cracks can go
all the way through the board (pay careful attention to the ends
of the boards) or only partially through the board .
STEP 4: CHECK FOR SPOT DEFECTS

Your paragraph text

STEP 5: SIGHT YOUR EDGES

No board is a perfect rectangle but your projects will go much more smoothly when
you use boards that are close to rectangular. If you imagine a board as a rectangle
with three dimensions (width, thickness, and length) you can picture how a board
could warp along any of those three dimensions. The best way to check for a curved
board is by "sighting" several edges. Rest one end of the board on the floor and hold

Your paragraph text

the other end at about face level. Close one eye and look along the nearest edge- it
should look straight (don't worry about perfection, if you think it looks straight
you're good to go). Rotate the board 90 degrees and sight along another edge. Check
both ends for cupping.
STEP 5: SIGHT YOUR EDGES

Your paragraph text

References:
https://www.twinkl.com.ph/teaching-wiki/wood-seasoning
https://civiltoday.com/civil-engineering-materials/timber/160-seasoning-of-timber-methods-benefits
https://www.uky.edu/Ag/Entomology/PSEP/cat17applic.html
https://theconstructor.org/building/preservation-of-timber-methods-
materials/17324/#:~:text=Creosote%20Oil%20for%20Preservation%20of%20Timber,-
Creosote%20oil%20is&text=It%20is%20applied%20in%20a,temperature%20of%2050oC.
https://handymansworld.net/types-of-wood-screws/
https://architizer-com.cdn.ampproject.org/v/s/architizer.com/blog/practice/details/how-to-specify-cabinet-
hardware/amp/?
amp_gsa=1&amp_js_v=a9&usqp=mq331AQKKAFQArABIIACAw%3D%3D#amp_tf=From%20%251%24s&aoh=1
6684822745968&referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com&ampshare=https%3A%2F%2Farchitizer.com%2F
blog%2Fpractice%2Fdetails%2Fhow-to-specify-cabinet-hardware%2F
https://www.hiatt-hardware.com/blog/post/door-handle-parts-names
https://mccoymart.com/post/8-types-of-wooden-doors-for-modern-homes-their-advantages/
https://www.hometips.com/buying-guides/trim-types-interior.html
https://www.madawaskadoors.ca/blog/different-types-of-moulding/
https://www.google.com/search?
q=STEPS+WHEN+CHOOSING+A+LUMBER&tbm=isch&chips=q:steps+when+choosing+a+lumber,online_chips:
dimensional+lumber:Tw8Q_KjUlWM%3D&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiD24_fn7D7AhUG0YsBHdn7ASQQ4lYoA
XoECAEQJw&biw=1841&bih=1009#imgrc=Y5XUqPwQD09FYM