----------- ;---------- ..

, , ----- ----------

TH E S IX ~

TRAVELS O F

John B a pt ist a T a v e r n ie r ,

B A R O N of A U B O N N E ,
TH ROUGH

C t t d t p and f i e r f t a
TO THE

I N D I E S .
During the ipace of Forty years.
Giving an Account of the prefent
State of thofc Countries, vi%. of their
R e l ig io n , G o v e r n m e n t , C u st o m s ,
and C o m m e r c e .
AS A L S O

The Figures, Weights, and Value o f the M o n ey

and C o in s feverally currant therein.

The Second Part:

D E S C R I B I N G

I N D I A and the I S L E S Adjacent.

Made Enghjh by J . P.

L O N D O N : '

Printed in the Year, 1678.

—— .. . — *■— .— - ------------ --- - .. .■
—
 Part II. t
T H E

F I G U R E S
O f t he P I E C E S of

Gold, Silver, and Copper:

A N D O F

Sorts of Shellsand Almonds that pats

for MONEY over all ASIA.

V' ' • •: i: : V•. ' ' , . ' '’ -

- The Money of Arabia.
Larin, Figure i . Half-Larin, Fig. 2.

. I f . n -h Money is call'd
t w i a n i tW 3 9 > n Larin, and lignit.es the fame o'finenefs
w fi# . with our Crowns. 1he Five Qf the Coins, he treats
Pieces are as much in value of, but having only ex-
S jp Q ir f% W as one o f our Crowns ; and prefs'd their value in
r a P F l l the, T « Half-Larins as much,
Lt.MUkMiK Only.the Five Larins want in ter reauaion thereof
weight Eight Sous o f our into Enghfh Coin,to ad-
® 9 ^ j f f®3$3| j R j S d r K N l Crown. This is that which the vertife , That Three
MTmi&Lk v%\ I B r- ■ p,.- „r_c French Livres make a
Jfor°the Coining o f their Frencb Crown, which
Money 5 and the profit which prom ^ pence to y8
f / / If / they make by the Merchants pence half-penny 5 fo
lie i L J ) iFJBBnMl that tm vd through the Defhrt,
either into Perfa or the Indies. change goCS > from is
For then the Emirs come to the pence to 19 pence half-
Cara var.s, to take their Tolls, and to change their Crowns, Reals, or penny.And twenty Sous
Ducats o f Gold, for thefe Larins. For they muft o f neceffity pafs make Slavic,
that way. And they muft ufe very fmooth words to b o o t; for there is nothing
to be got by rough Languages. I f they fee the Merchants will not change their
Money, then will they refufe to take their T o ll; but making as i f they had
not time to caft up the accompt, they go a hunting, and leave the Merchants
fifteen or twenty days without faying any thing more to them; while they
in the mean time fpend their provisions, not knowing where to get moie.
I f the Caravan goes on without paying their Tolls, thefe Arabian Princes wi 1
either cut them in pieces, or take away their Cam els, or rob them of all
th ey have, as they have feveral times done. In one Journey that I made,
one o f thefe Princes kept us one and twenty days; after which j U§ lt: °^.r
felves happy to be quit o f him, when we had given him whatever he demanded.
I f thefe five Larins did but weigh as much as the Crown, or Real of Spam,
the Merchants would never be much troubled. But when they come to FefM >
or the Indies they muft carry their Money to the Mint, as I have laid m
another p la ce , and loofe above eight Sous in a C ro w n , which amounts to
1 4 per Cent. As for what remains, the Larins are one o f the ancient Coms^
 o f Afta j and though at this day they are only currant in Arabia, and at Bal-
fara, neverthelels, from Brag4att to the Ifland o f Ceylon, they traffick altogether
with the Larin, and all along the Perfim Golf; where they take 80 Larins fat
one Toman, which is yo Abajjis.

The Money currant wider the 'Dominions of the Great Mogul.

A
Money.
L L the Gold and Silver which is brought into the Territories o f the
Great Mogul, is refined to the higheft perfection before it be coined into

The Roupy o f Gold weighs 2 Drams and a half, and 1 1 Grains, and is va­
lued in the Country at 1 4 Roupies o f Silver. We reckon the Roupy o f Sil­
ver at 30 Sous. So that a Roupy o f Gold comes to 2 1 Livres o f trance ;
and an Ounce o f Gold to y8 Livres, and 4 Deneer’s. This Gold is like that
which w e buy at 5:4 Livres an Ounce. And i f you bring this Gold in Ingots,
or Ducats o f European Gold, you fhall have always 7 and a half profir -y i f
you can Icape paying any thing to the Cuftom-houles. The Half-Roupy corner
to 1 0 Livres 10 S o u s; and the Quarter-Roupy to y Livres y Sous. As T
have laid, you muft reckon the Silver Roupy at 3 o Sous, though it weigh
not above 3. D ram s; whereas our pieces o f 30 Sous weigh 3 Drams, and half
4 grains ; but the Roupy is much the better Silver. In a word; they that
underhand Traffick well, and carry hence Gold or Silver to the Territories
o f the G reat Mog l, get always 7 or h perCent. profit, provided they take
care to Ihun the Cuitom-houfes. For i f you pay them, the 7 or 8 per Gent.
which you might make profit, goes to th em ; and fo the Roupy comes to
30 Sous, the H alf to i y , and the Quarter to 7 and a half, the Eighth part
to 3 Sous and 9 Deneers.
As for their Copper Money, fometimes ’tis worth more, fometimes left, as
Copper comes to the Mint. But generally the biggeft fort is worth 2 Sous
o f our Money, the next 1 Sous, the next to that 6 Deneers.
As for their Shell Money, the nearer you go to the Sea, the more you
give for a Pecha; for they bring them from Maldives. Fifty or 60 o f thele
make a Pecha, which is that piece o f Coin that is worth but 6 D e­
neers.
For their Money o f Mamoudi’s, half Mamoudi’s, and Almonds, all that fort
o f Money is only currant in the Province o f Guz.eratt, the principal Cities
whereof are Surat, Barocba, Cambaya, Broudra, and Amadabat. Five Mamoudi's
go for a Crown, or a Real. For Imall Money they make no ule o f thele Shells,
but o f little Almonds, which are brought from about Ormus, and grow in
the Defarts o f the Kingdom o f Larr. I f you break one o f the Shells, it is
impoffible to eat the Almond, for there is no Coloquimida fo bitter ; fo that
there is no fear leaft the Children Ihould eat their fmall Money. They have
alfo thole little pieces o f Copper which are call'd Pecha, 6 Deneer’s in value.
They give 20 for a Mamoudi, and 40 Almonds for a P ech a; fometimes you
may have 44, according to the quantity which is brought. For lome years
the Trees do not bear, and then the price o f this fort o f Money is very
much raifed in that Country ; and the Bankers know how to make their be-
, nefit.

Fig. 1 . The Roupy o f Gold. Fig. 2. The Half-Roupy o f Gold. Fig. 3. The
Quarter-Roupy o f Gold.
Fig. 4. The, Roupy o f Silver. Fig. y. Another Roupy o f Silver. Fig. 6. The
H alf-Roupy o f Silver. Fig. 7. The Quarter-Roupy o f Silver. Fig. 8. The
Eighth part o f the Roupy o f Silver.
Fig. 9. Four Pecha’s o f Copper. Fig.10. T w o Pecha’s o f Copper. Fig. 1 1 . One
Pecha.
Fig. 12 .
fajz.z. _ If on, 1/ oj7A rabid jL arm 2r kaife L a ria Jr anvils m India.
o f ij i f r e a l J^ioauLl in* .

ffh e fdfoney erf a. JOmq and tnra dial aa

 ________________________ _____ __________________________________________________

Fig. 12 . The Shells. Fig. 1 3 . A Silver-Mamoudi, which is the Money o f

Guzerat. Fig. 14 . H alf a Mamoudi. Fig. 15-. The Almond.
I have mark’d two forts o f Roupies, the one fquare, the other round. The
fquare one is as they coin’d it anciently; the round ones are as they make
them at this day.

*
The M oney of a King and two R a ja V , all three Tributaries to
the Great M o g u l.

M Aton-cha is a Tributary to the Great M ogul; yet he has power to coin M o­

ney. Whe n you are at Agra, the Territories o f this King lye to the North j
and before you can come at them,vou muft pafs over very high and cragged Moun­
tains. ’Tis a good Country, where are all things necelfary for the fupport o f humane
life, except Rice, which is a great inconvenience to the Inhabitants, who being all
Idolaters, are depriv’d thereby o f their chiefeft delicacies, in regard they feed upon
nothing fo heartily as upon Rice. They have excellent Corn, and Grapes, but they
make no Wine, though they make’ fome Aqua Vita. They want neither Oxen nor
'Cow s ; but their Horfes are litt'e, weak, and ill-fhap’d. All the Trade which
thefe people have with their Neighbours, is in Copper, w hereof they have
two extraordinary Mines, from whence they furnilh the greateft part o f the
Mogul’s Territories ; out o f which they have Salt in Exchange, not having
any o f their own. This Salt cofts them dear, in regard it is four months tra­
vel to the place where thev fetch it, that is to fay, from the Territories o f
Maten-cha to the Indian Coaft towards Bacaim. Thev travel upon Oxen, and
the fame Oxen carry their Copper. There muft be alfo fome Mines o f Lapis-
Lazuli and Garnets in that Country, in regard they bring feveral from thence.

Fig. I, and 2. is the Money o f Maton-cha.

Fi<r. x. is- the Silver-Money, which weighs not above one dram and 19 grains,
and is o f the lame goodnefsas the Roupy. The half-Roupy goes for i f Sous,
and this for 16 Sous,which is fix and a half per Cent. more. But certain it is,that the
more Northward you travel that w ay, Gold and Silver is more fcarce. Fig. 2,
Thefe pieces o f Copper go for the value o f a Pecha o f the Great Mogul-, they
are heavier by half, but' the Copper is not fo good as that o f Pegu or fapan.

Fig. 3, and 4. is the Money o f the Raja o f Part a fajoumola.

The Raja o f Parta fajoamola, is one o f the great Rajas on the other fide o f the
Games. His Territories are dire&lv North o f Patna, nigh to the great Mogul s,
to whom he is Tributary, and bordering upon the King o f Bantam. He is bound
every year to fend an Embaffador with twenty Elephants to the G over-
nour o f Patna, who fends them to the Great Mogul. The greatel part o*
his revenue confifts in Elephants, Musk, and Rhubarb. He lays a 0 a grea
Impofition upon Salt, as well that which is fpent by his own S u b le ts, as
upon that which is carried abroad. This is all Sea-coaft oalt, whic co
from the Territories o f the G reat Mogul, and is brought from the ea coa
to Ganges, and fo over Ganges is carried as far as the fiftieth an ve
fiftieth D egree! They lade above iyoooo O xen; and for every burt en ey
pay a Roupy at the Salt-Pits, and no more afterwards through the whole Kang-
, - dom. Had this Raja' o f Parta Salt o f his own, he would never be Tributary
to the G reat Mogul.

Fig. y, and 6. is the Money o f the Raja o f Ogen.

The Raja o f Ogen is alfo a Tributary to the G reat Mogul-, his Country lies
between Bramponr, Seronge, and Amadabat ; and it is one o f the belt Soils in
r f B 2 Fig. y,
 the Indies. His Silver Money pafles no-where but in his own Country, not be­
ing fuflfer’d in the Mogul7s. His Silver Money goes for a quarter o f a Roupy,
at 7 Sous 6 Deneer’s ; but the Silver is bale. His Copper Money goes for
6 Deneers, and is currant in the Mogul's Dominions as far as Agra. For his
fmaller Money he makes 'ufe o f thofe Shells whereof we have already fpo-
ken.

I -------------------------------------------*------------------------------------------------------

^Pieces of Gold called Pagods, which are currant in the Territories

of the King ■of Golconda, the King of Vifapour, the Great Raja
of Carnatica, the Raja of Velouche, and at the 'Diamond Mines.
’*

A L L the Pieces o f Gold reprefented in the Plate o f Golconda-Money, pals

through all thefe Countries at the fame value, and are about the weight o f
our half P ifto l; but the Gold is o f a bafer Mettal, fo that an Ounce is not worth
a b o ve 42 or 43 L iv re s; not going for more than four Roupies. pp
F ig .*. Is one o f the ancient Pagods, at the time when the Raja's were ,
Matters o f the Kingdom o f Golconda, and they are only ftampt upon one fide,
as you fee. They are as heavy as the new ones ■, and though they be no
better Gold, yet fome years finee they went at 20, and 2-j per cent, more
than the new ones; the reafon is, for that the Bankers being all Idolaters,
they are fo fuperftitious as to believe, that if they melt down that Money,
fome calamity will befall their Country ; and they hold this for fuch a cer­
tain truth, that for fear the King o f Golconda fhould melt it, they paid him
for certain years 20000 Pagods. But you mutt obferve, that thefe old Pagods
are no-where currant but in the Kingdom o f Golconda. For my part, I think it is
more for their profit than out o f any fiiperftition, that they make ufe o f them in
that manner. For in all the Kingdom o f Golconda, in matter o f trade, they never
mention any but the old Pagods, though they make their payments in new Pagods,
or Roupies ; and in this cafe they who receive thofe new Pagods,or thofe Roupies,
play their game fo well, that they gain a fourth part, or a half, and fometimes one
per Cent, alledging for the reafon, that thofe new Pagods are either the King o f
Vifapour s, o r the Raja o f Carnatica’s, or the Raja o f Velouche’s, or the Englijb,
or the Hollanders. And they make as much o f the Roupies ; for there is no
confiderable payment made, which is not received by the Cheraffor Banker,
making it good to the Seller, who fometimes has no need o f his Money in
a month or tw o, and fo he receives the intereft o f it, though it be but for
two days. I f the payment be made in old Pagods, and that the fum amount
to two or three hundred, or three or four thoufand, the Banker takes them
a ll, and viewing them one after another, he divides them into five or fix
p arts; and then poifing them all, he fays o f fome, that they are more us d
than others, and that having patted through many hands, there is a watte o f the
mettal about one per Cent. Others, fays he, want not above half one per
Cent, others but a fourth part. Thefe Pagods have been bor’d fome h alf tho­
rough, others a quarter thorough ; and it is a wonderful thing what this boring
amounts to. For in regard thefe Pagods are very thick, and cannot be dipt,
thofe that are Matters o f the trade, take a Piercer, and pierce the Pagod tho­
rough the fide, half w ay or more, taking out o f one piece as much Gold as
comes to two or three Sous. And provided they be not taken in the fad,
they chufe rather to follow this trade than any o th er; there being no handy-
craft tradesmen among the Indians, that gain more than three Sous a day.
A fter they haye drawn out the piercer, they knock upon the holes with a
little hammer, and are fo cunning in clofing up the holes again, that he mutt
be v ery skilful indeed, that can difcover the cheat. For this reafon, they ne­
ver receive any' payment till they have fhew’n the Pieces to the Cheraff or
Banker 5 and though he looks only on tw o or three Pieces, he takes a Sous.
They have alfo another cunning trick, and the more the Banker is in credit,
\ »

JP e tce s o f u-a-td cull'd P a q o d s. J '~uvtUr ,n /nai*

Hi

®” ® §* if
fC nylifh &~H(rlland fTToneir.
' Part it An account of the Money of Asi a . 5
the more he gain s; for i f he makes any payment, according to the quantity
o f the fum, he puts the Pagods by fifty or a hundred together in little bags,
and feals them up with his Seal, and writes upon the bag the number o f the
Pagods within ; and fo delivers them to him to whom he makes the pay­
ment. When the party makes ufe o f them, he never opens the bag, but gives
them as they are, to him to whom they are due ; who goes to the lame Ban­
ker that foal’d the bags. The Banker feeing his Seal whole, makes anfwer,
that the Pieces are good, and in that manner they lhall pafs all the year
Without opening the bags. But when ever they change the hand, they fend
for the lame Banker, who always will have lo much per Cent, for his vifit.
But as I have faid, the Merchant leaves them in his hand to get intereft;
w ho then pays eight per Cent, for a year, and fometimes twelve. Thus the
Bankers have always the greateft part o f the Money in the Kingdom in their
hands, o f which they make large profit, ’Tis the cuftom in that Country,
e v e ry Month to pay the Soldiery ; but. for the molt part, the Soldiers, Cap­
tains and other Officers will not flay ftill the Month be up, but come to the
Bankers, who difeount after the rate o f eighteen or twenty per Cent, by the
year befides that they pay them in thefe Pagods, againft which others would
often objed. I f there be any large Diamond to be fold in any Country, thefe
Bankers have intelligence o f it p refen tly; or i f there be any fair Ruby, ’ tis
not long before they have it in pawn 5 for every, year when the Merchants
return from Pegu, and have any Rubies, molt commonly they are in debt j
and in regard it is the cuftom to pay within fifteen days after the Merchant
comes afhoar, he pawns his belt goods he has for payment, as well o f the
freight o f the Ship, as o f what he may have taken up at Pegu. After that
he fells the worft o f his goods to pay the Banker, who lent him the Money
upon his arrival. Thofe that work in the Diamond Mines, or the Merchants,
that hire the Mine, when they have any fair Stones,they fell them to thefe
Bankers, becaufe there is ready Money ; or elfe they pawn them to the Ban­
kers, till they can find a Chapman to buy them,

Fig. i . The old Pagod.

Fig. 2. The King o f Golconda’s Pagod.
Fig. 3, and 4. The King o f Fifapour’s Pagod.
Fig. c, and 6. The Baja o f Carnaticas Pagod.
Fie. 1 , and 8. The Raja o f Vdouches Pagod. .
Fie. 9 1 0 , 1 1 , and 12 . are the Half-Pagods o f thofe Kings and Rajas.
F k . i t 14 i t , 16 , and 1 7 . are little Pieces o f Gold call’d Fanes, which are
o f different value. There are fome w hereof fix go to a Crown ; others from
ten to fifteen ; and fome are, very bafe mettal. This is the Money that panes
all along the Coaft o f Coromandel; from Cape Comorin as far as Bengala. And .
they have very little other than that, befides the Pecha o f Copper, and the
Shells, which pafs for fmall Money.

7he Money which the Englifli and Hollanders Coin in the Indies.

-Fig u re I , and 2. is the M oney which the Englijh coin in their Fort St. George,
X or elfe at M adrefpatan, upon the Coaft o f Coromandel. They call them
Pagods, as thofe o f the Kings and Raja s o f the Country are call d. They
are o f the fame weight, the fame goodnefs, and pafs for the fame value. For­
m e d the Englijh never coin’d any Silver or Copper M oney ; for in fome
parts that border upon the Indians, where they have Fad ories, as at Surat,
M a/lipatan, or at Bantam, they find it more profitable to carry Gold from
E n glan d, than S ilv e r ; Gold lying in lefs room , and not being fo trou­
blesome ; befides, that by carrying GoM th ey more eafily efcape the
paying thofe Cuftoms which the Kings impofe upon Gold and Silver.
u. ^ 3
 fince the prefent King o f England married the Princds o f Portugal, who had
in part o f her Portion the famous Port o f Bombeye, where the Englijh are
very hard at work to build a ftrong F o rt, they coin both Silver, Copper,
and Tinn. But that Money will not go at Surat, nor in any part o f the G reat
Mogul’s Dominions, or in any o f the Territories o f the Indian K ingsj only it
pafles among the Englijh in their Fort, and fome tw o or three Leagues up
in the Country, and in the Villages along the Coaft ; the Country people that
bring them their Wares, being glad to take that Money 5 otherwife they would
fee "but very little ftirring, in regard the Country is very poor, and the people
have nothing to fell but Ac-ua vita, made o f Coco-Wine and Rice.
Fig. 3. and 4. is the" Gold Money which the Hollanders coin at Palicate,
which is a Fort that they polfefs upon the Coaft o f Coromandel. Thofe pieces
are alfo call’d Pagods, and are o f the fame weight with the others 5 but for
the goodnefs, I think they are better by two or three in the hundred, than
thofe° o f the Kings and Raja’s o f the Country, or which the Englijh make.
I made this obfervation, being at the Diamond-Mines, and in other parts o f
the Indies where there is any great Trade. For the firft thing they ask you
is, whether you have any Pagods o f Pdicate; and if you have, you fpeed much
better in your bufinefs.
Fig. ^ and 6 . is a Roupy o f Silver, which the Hollanders coin at Pdicate,
being o f the fame weight with thofe which the Great Mogul, or the Kings o f
Golconda and Vjapour make. It has in the middle upon one fide the mark o f the
Holland Company, to diftinguifh it from others. The Hollanders Koupies o f Silver
are quite contrary to their Pagods o f Gold, which are more efteemed by the In­
dians than thofe o f the Princes o f the Country. For they make far lefs account
o f thefe Roupies o f S ilv e r; and i f you pay any great fum in thefe pieces,
though the Silver be as good as the others, you muft iofe one half per Cent.
Fig. 7 , and k is the Hollanders fmall Copper-Money, wherewith they o r--
dinarily pay their Soldiers. It has upon one fide the mark o f the Company.
And indeed the Hollanders, who mind nothing but their profit, had great reafon
to obtain leave to coin M o n ey; for bringing onlv Gold from japan, from M a-
cajfar only Gold in Powder, and from China Gold in Ingots, and felling all
thefe to the Bankers, thev found that they loft five or fix per Cent, which
proceeded from the miltruft o f.th e Changers, and the chiex o f the Facto­
ries belonging to the Company* iNow they fhun that lofs, and make the fame
profit which the Bankers did coining all thefe mettals into money. Though
in every Voyage which thev make to japan, they generally lofe one Vcflcl
by ftorm ; yet fome years thev make five or fix Millions o f Livres profit,
all freights difcharged, and hazards efcaped. But that- profit is quite loft,
fince their lofs o f the Ifland o f Eormoja.
\ 40

The Money of the King of Check and Pera.

T His Money is o f Tin, and is coin’d by the King o f. Cheda and Pera. ^ He
coins no other Monev than Tin. Some years he found out ieveral Mines,
which was a great prejudice to the Englijh. For the Hollanders and other
Merchants buy it, and vend it over all A ju . Formerly the Englijh brought
it out o f England, and furnifhed great part o f Afia, where they confum d a
vaft quantity ; they carried it alfvi into all the Territories o f the Great Mogul.,
as alfo into Perfa and Arabia-, for all their Difhes are o f Copper, which they
caufe to be Tinned over every month. Among the meaner fort o f people, t r - e
is little to be feen but this Tin-money, and the Shels calld Con ; whicn 1
have fpoken o f already. . , ,„
Fig. 1 , and 2. is that great piece o f Tin, which weighs an ounce and a halt
and in that Country goes for the value o f tw o o f our Sous. But m g«
that Tin is there at 1 4 Sous a pound, it is not worth above one bous^ana
 .faq e J . JrairelLr in India.
ffcjL . d'hz 1Jlom y~ o f the H in t? erf. ffc . 2,.
/ s— —- ~~\\\ Jdeda and Fern . / ~~\

v\ \ c \ / ^ / / /
' :'^ar^;-T
\ X

\/\ N-- --------- _ / y' / \v • ♦ • • • * *y/ y /

n $ .

^ -$u ^ 1TLoneq o f the K in a of^ 'Acketz. ■

f£ x tflimetf a flke K in a a f ytam .'.

M - f t .s .

.' ■
.# O' ' -- - • --
I lf
—V,-.----:- y *rn Ct
J three Deneers. This piece o f Tin is only thick in the Tides, the middle be­
ing as thin as Paper.
3, and 4. is a piece that goes at the value o f four Deneers.
Fig. and 6. are their Shells, w hereof they give fifty for the little piece
o f Tin.

The Money of Gold and Tin of the King of Achen. With the Money
in Gold Coin'd hy the King of Macaflar, and the Celebes. And
the Silver and Coffer Money of the King of Camboya.
T ?iV . 1 and 2. is the Money, in Gold coin’d by the King o f Achen, in the
f iiand o f Sumatra. In goodnets it is better than our L o u is; an Ounce be­
ing well worth fifty Franks. This piece weighs 10 G rain s, and would be
worth fixteen Sous and eight Deneers o f our Money.
Fi<T. 3, and .4. is the fmall Money made by the fame King, being o f lin ,
and weighs eight Grains. The Tin being good, I value it at 1 6 Sous a pound 5
'and then 7 ? o f thefe pieces is worth one Sous o f ours.
Fig. e, and 6 . is the Money in Gold o f the King o f Macafar, or the Ce-
lebesf This piece weighs twelve Grains, and the Hollanders take it -for a Florin
o f our Money 5 which comes to 23 Sous and eight Deneers. ;
F k 7 and 8. is the Silver Money o f the King o f Camboya ; being good
Silver and weighs thirty two Grains. The piece comes to 24 Sous o f our
Money nor does the King coin it at any higher rate. He has a great quan­
tity o f Gold in his Country, but he never coins it into M o n ey; for he trades
with it by weight* as he does with his Silver, according to the cuitom o f

Fit. 9 and 10 . is the Copper Money o f the King o f Camboya. The King o f
lava, the King o f Bantam, and the Kings o f the Molucca Iflands com no other
Money but pieces o f Copper after the fame form and manner. As for their
Silver Money, they let it pafs as . it comes out o f other Countries^without
melting it down. In Bantam, in all Java, in Batavia, and the Moluccas, there
is little other Money Aiming, but Spanijh Reals, Rixdollars o f Germany,, and
Crowns o f France; the greateft part being Half-Reals, O u t e r s , and Eighth
parts. But in Batavia they ufe befides for fmall Money, Shillings, double Sous
and Sous, as in Holland.

The Money in Gold, Silver, and Coffer, of the King of Siam.

T V ? . I , and 2. is the Money in Gold, coin’d by the King o f Siam ; and weighs
P 18 Grains more than our Half-Piitol. The Gold is o f the fame Goodnefs,
and may be worth 7 Livres and one Sous o f our Money. When the _ er
chants, that trade in that Country, bring thence either Gold or Silver us tor
want o f other Commodities, as Silk, Musk, Sandal, Wood Gum Lake, -
phants teeth, and other things. For by carrying out Gold or Silver, they reap out
tw o in the hundred profit. . , a *
Fur. 3, 4, c, and 6. is a piece about the bignefs o f a large Hazle-Nut, flatted
onl>he four tides, like a femicircle, three Tides w hereof are open like a Horfe-
fhoe h v d upon two Tides are certain o f their own Letters. There is no Money
in the Eaft fo ftrangely coin’d as this. It weighs three Dram s and a half, and
2c Grains and is as good as our Silver at three Livres and 10 Sous the
Ounce. It amounts to 32 Sous and 4 Deneers o f our Money.
Fie 6 7 and 8. is the Copper Money o f the King o f Siam ; and they give
two hundred o f thefe pieces for one piece o f Silver. For their fmall Money,
they make ufe o f certain Shells that are gather’d upon the Sea-lhore, which
they bring from Maldives.

. The. Gold and Silver Money of the Kings of Afem, Tipoura,

Afakan, and Pegu.

A L L the Silver Money coin’d b y the Kings whom I have nam’d, is in

goodnefs equal to our Crown? rating, it at three Livres ten Sous the Ounce,
as we rate our Crowns here.
Fig. i , and 2. is the Silver Money o f the King o f A fem ; it weighs three
Drams and four Grains, and comes to 23 Sous o f our Money.
Fig. 3, 4. is the Silver Money made by the King o f Tipoura Chatermani.
In the language o f the Country, he is call’d Dieu-Ara-gari, which is ftampt
upon one fide o f the Money, and upon the other Chatermani Roy de Tipoura,
His Country begins about twelve days journey from Daca toward the N orth-
Weft. This Money weighs two Drams and a half, and twenty-two Grains?
and is in value twenty-two Sous.
Fig. y, 6. is the King o f Atakans Money. It weighs two Drams and a halfj
and i y Grains, which makes 2 1 Sous o f our Money. This King coins no Gold ?
but he trafficks in Gold uncoin’d. The Mettal is v fr y bale, and not w orth
above 1 4 Carats, a Carat being the third part o f an Ounce. The King how­
ever holds it at a high rate, to keep it from being carry’d out o f his Coun­
try. In all Bengala this King is known by no other Name but the King o f
Mogue,
Fig. 7 , and S. is the King o f Pegu’s Silver Money, and weighs two Drams
and a half, and tw elve Grains, which may come to about 20 Sous, and fix
Deneers o f our Money.
Fig. 9, and 10 . are the King o f Pegu s Fano’s, or little pieces o f Gold, and
weigh not above 7 Grains to boot. Fifteen o f thefe little pieces paIs for the
value o f a R eal, or one o f our Crowns, the Gold being courie.
Fig. 1 1 , 1 2 . are the Kings o f A Jems Fano’s ; they weigh aho 7 Grains 3
but they are a much baler Mettal than thole o f Peguj for twenty-two o f them
amount but to the value o f our Crown,

Lumps or Tieces of Gold and Silver which go for Money in the

Kingdom of China, and the Kingdom of Tunquin.

Y O H are firft to take notice, that in all the Kingdom o f China, and the
Kingdom o f Tunquin, there is no Money coin’d, either Gold or Silver 3
that their fmall Money is Copper, and that they make ufe in payments only
o f Lumps or Pieces o f Gold and Silver, which have every one their particu­
lar weight, as is here reprelented.
The Pieces o f Gold mark’d Fig. 1 , and 2. are by the Hollanders call’d Golt-
fchut, that is to fay, a Boat o f G old, becadfe they are in the form o f a Boat.
O ther Nations call them Loaves o f Gold ; and there are but tw o different fizes
o f them. The Gold is o f fuch a goodnefs, that an Ounce in France would . ^
not be w orth lefs than 42 Franks. The great Pieces come to tw el^ 'm u n -
dred G elders o f Holland Money, and thirteen hundred and fifty Livres o f our
M oney. The other Piece, which weighs but h alf as much, is in value accor­
ding to its proportion.
As for their Pieces o f Silver, they are o f feveral fizes, and different weight.
Fig. 3. weighs fix- Drams and a half, and 23 Grains j and the Silver being
_ very*
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Part II An account of the Money of A sia. £

very near in goddnds to the Par ft an, it comes to fifty-nine Sous, and eight
Deneers o f our Money. The other Pieces, as well great as final], are in value
according to their weight.
In great payments they make ufe o f Ingots, that come to a hundred Franks
in value; and they have little Pieces o f Silver that are not worth above a
Sous.'
When they buy any Commodity, i f they have not whole Pieces enough to
make up the fu m , they have always initruments ready, to cut o lf fo much
fro m ‘ a great piece as will perfect the payment.
When the Chin-efts tranfport their Golden Loaves, or their Boats, intoother
Countries, the Merchants cut them in the middle, not daring to truftthe Chi­
neses, who have often deceiv’d them ; and none have been more cheated than
the Hollanders. For they have a w ay to fluff their Loaves o f Gold, infomuch
that you fhall fometimes find in the middle, a third part o f Copper of Silver.
In all ,farts o f Bargains the Chineses are fo cunning, that there are few ftran-
gers whom they do not over-reach 5 efpecially, in Batavia, the Hollanders
v when they come firft. They carry their weights always along with them;
being like a Roman Beam, or a Stelleer, about eight Inches long, with which
they weigh all the Gold and Silver which they receive. As for the final! Money
both in China and Tmqmm, it is o f Copper. It is made as in Fig. 4. They
alfo thread thefe pieces, there being a hole in the middle,. 1 2 , 2 y, yo, and
300 upon a firin g ; becaufe they will not put themfelves to the trouble o f
telling them, when the number exceeds a dozen.

The Cold and Silver Money of Ja p o n .

A L L the Gold that comes from Japon, is o f the fame goodnefs; fome-
what better than our L o u is; and is about that goodnefs for which we
pay about yp Franks the Ounce.
Fig. r. This piece o f Gold weighs one Ounce and fix Drams, at fifty Franks
the Ounce, comes to 87 Livres and 1 0 Sous.
Fig. 2, and 3. Every one o f thefe pieces is o f Gold, and every one weighs
a third part o f the great one ; which is half an Ounce, and 48 Grains ; and
comes to 29 Livres, 3 Sous, and 4 Deneers.
Fig. 4. This, as it is mark’d, is the backfide o f the three pieces o f Gold.
Fig. y; and 6. are pieces o f Silver o f the fame w e ig h t; everyone weigh­
ing 4 Grains lefs than our pieces o f 30 Sous, though it go neverthelefs for
the lame value. As for the Silver, it is the fame in goodnefs with our Mo­
ney. However, in the Territories o f the Great Mogul, whither the Hollan­
ders carry all their Silver, their Bars, and Japon pieces, to coin them into M o­
ney, fometimes they fell them to the Bankers, where they have no conve-
venience o f coinage, as at Surat and Hgra ; and thefe Bankers give them from
tw o to three in tike hundred more than they will give for our Crowns, R ix-
dollars, or Spanijh Reals.
Fig. 7. is the backfide o f the tw o Silver pieces,

7 ha TortraiCt ure of the Silver Ingots of japon, which go for Money,

t Said before, that all the Silver that comes out o f Japon, is equal in goodnefs to
our Crowns.
Fig. 1 . An Ingot o f this form weighs feven ounces, at three Livres ten Sous
the ounce : the whole comes to twenty four L ivres, and ten Sous,
JG Fig, Zt
- V- ,i ' ~ ’ _ . / _ . •
____________________________________________________________________________

io An account of the Money of A sia. Part H.

— ----------- ----------------------------------------------------------- — .............................................................................................................. ................................. ................................. .— -

Fig. z. Weighs two ounces, three drams and an h a lf: the whole comes to eight
Livres, ten Sous, and feven Deneers.
Fig. 3. Weighs once ounce, half a dram, and twelve grains : the whole comes
to four Livres, five Sous, and five Deneers.
Fig. 4. Weighs one ounce, eight grains: the whole comes to three Livres, ten
Sous, and, an eleven Deneers.
Fig, j . Weighs feven drams, one quarter, and feven grains: the whole comes
to three Livres, eight Sous, and eight Deneers.
Fig. 6 . Weighs two drams and an half, and twenty four grains: the whole
comes to one Livre, five Sous, and one Deneer.
Fig. 7. Weighs two drams, twenty four D en eers: the whole comes to one
Livre, nine Deneers.
Fig. 8 . Weighs one dram and an half, and twenty four grains : the whole comes
to fixteen Sous, and four Deneers.
Fig. 9. Is the Copper-Money which they thread by fifteen, thirty, fifty,
■ to the number o f 600. which is the value o f a Tell in Silver. O ver all japon they
reckon by Tells : and the Hollanders reckon, that a Tell makes three Gelders
and an half o f their Money, which comes to four Livres, and five Sous o f
ours.
Fig. 10 . Is the back-fide o f the Copper-piece.

Money that reprefents the Figures of the twelve Signs; and which
were Coined during the twenty four hours, that Gehan-guir, King of
the Indians, permitted Oueen Nourmahall, his Wife,- to Reign in his
ftead.

SVltan Selim, otherwife called Gehanguir Tatcha the ninth King o f the Indi­
ans, Father o f Cha-gehan, was a great Lover o f Women; but he had a par­
ticular affection for one among the reft, which he kept in his Seraglio j and which
,
he had Efpous’d, as meriting more than ordinary. She was a Woman o f a Sublime
Wit, and very liberal; and fhe knew fo well how to pleafe the King’s humour, and
to divertize him, that he could not live without her. She had two N am es; the
one was Nour-gehan-begum, which fignifies the light of the World ■, and this was
the Name which was engraven upon her Sign et: for as I have obferv’d in my
Relations, they never Sign any thing, but only fet their Seals. The other Name,
by which fhe was call’d at Court, was Nonr-mahall, which fignifies the Light of
the Seraglio. She was always a great enemy to the King’s two Sons ; more efpe-
cially to the fecond, who was called Sultan Kourom : and who afterwards
coming to the Throne, called him felf Cha-gehan. He fet himfelf to oppofe all the
defigns o f this Princefs: who, for her part, had fuch an Afcendant over the King,
that (he perfwaded him to (pend the greateft part o f the year in the Country, un­
der-hand foliciting certain Raja's upon the Frontiers to rife againft him, that fhe
might engage him in the Wars, and keep him from the company o f his Sons. This
Queen, being altogether Ambitious, made it her bufinefs to pleafe the King,- that
fhe might the more eafily accomplifh her defigns; and having a great defire to
eternize her Memory, fhe could not think o f a better w ay, than to Coin a good
quantity o f Money in her own N am e: and o f a different ftamp from that which
the Indian Kings were wont to Coin. For you muft take notice, that all the Coins
o f thofe Kings have only the Characters o f the Countrey upon each fide of„t>“
Piece. But this Queen caus'd one o f the twelve Signs to be ftamp’d/upon
upon each fide o f Hers, which is contrary to the Law o f Mahomet, that forbids all
manner o f reprefentations. However, fee had never brought her defign about,
had Sultan Kourom been at Court. But fhe took her time, when the King iftd
caus’d the eyes o f his eldeft Son,Sultan Kofrou to be put out,becaufe he had taken
up Arms againft him, with an intention to depofe him from his Throne.^ For after
be had obtain’d that Victory, he fent his fecond Son, Sultan Kourom, into Decan,
- with
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 with a powerful Arm y againft the King o f Kifapour, who was in Rebellion. Qjeen
Jsfourmahall feeing her fe lf deliver’d from thole that were able to crofs her de-
figns, and particularly from Sultan Kourom, the molt Potent, and the moft inve­
terate o f all her enemies, and believing it feafonable to difcover her purpole to
the King, fet her felf to flatter him more than Ihe was w o n t; inventing new
ways to divcrtize him,fometimes w ith Hunting,and fometimes in the Haram,with
Balls and C om edies: One day that the King was extrem ely well-pleas’d, and
having drank briskly, began to be very merry ; after the Queen had Danc’d in
his prefence, he took her, and fet her by him, protefting, to her, that he
lov’d her above all the Princefles in his Court ; and that but for her, he had dy’d
for grief, to fee that his Son Saltan Kofroa Ihould be fo traiteroufly bold, as to
endeavour to deprive him o f his Scepter. The Queen feeing the King fo highly
aifeded toward her, fail’d not to make ufe o f fo favourable an opportunity. To
which purpofe, Sir, faid Ihe, i f it be true that your Ma jetty has that kindnefs for
m e o f which you would perfwade me to allure my felf, I know you will grant
me’ one favour which I have paffionately defir’d a long tim e; that I may only
Reign as Sovereign the fpace o f twenty four hours. This requeft furpriz’d the
King and kept him very fad for fome d a y s, being unwilling to deny her any
thing*, and yet being as loth to grant her a Boon o f fo high a nature. In the mean •
time the Queen ply’d the King with Paftime and Divertifements, pretending to
take no notice o f his melancholy. At length the fift day after Ihe had made her
Petition, the King no-longer able to refill her Charms, nor the ftrong Paiilon he
had for her, told her he would retire for twenty four hours, and that fne might
affume the abfolute Command o f the Kingdom during that time. At the fame time
he caus’d all the Grandees that were then at Court, to be fent for into his prefence,
and then commanded them to obey her, and punctually to execute her Orders, as
i f it were he himlelf that ipoke to them. It was a long time before that the
Queen had made every thing ready, and that Ihe had lecretly hoarded up grease
quantities o f Gold and Silver in all the Cities where the Mints were appointed,
and had diftributed the Stamps as Ihe thought convenient. And indeed it was a
wonderful thing, that a Woman Ihould fo p o litic ly carry on fo great a defign, as
to have four and twenty Stamps engrav’d, and to keep iij a readinefs m Geld and
Silver above two Millions in all the Cities, without being dilcovered to the King,
or any o f the Court. There were none but the Mint-Matters that knew any thing
o f her defign,whom Ihe engag’d by large promises,and larger hopes j c.s behevang
that Ihe could certainly obtain herdefire one day o f the K in g ; and then, u die
had her Materials readv, that Ihe could do her bufinefs in twenty tour hours, i ne
day being appointed, Ihe fent away MelTengers to all the Cities, commanding them
on that day to Coin Roupies o f Gold and Silver^ to the value already mention d.
When the King and the Grandees came to underftand the bufinefs, they were
ftrangely furpriz’d ; efpecially Sultan K oarcm, the Queens implacable enemy,
who, as fome perfons o f the Countrey affur’d me, fainted away at the news arid
did not come to himfelf in a good while after. The thing was fo fuddenty done,
efpeciallv in the Cities neer at hand, that within two hours after Ihe was late up­
on the Throne, Ihe caus’d feveral quantities o f that Gold and Silver to be thrown
among the people, which during the Reign o f Gchan-gmr went currently for Rou­
pies. But When Saltan Kourom, who took upon him the Name o{ Cb,-gehan came
to the Crown after the death o f his Father, he forbad all perfons to ufe thole
Roupies upon pain o f death, and commanded all that had any o f them, eithei i
G old or Silver, to carry them to the Mint 5 where they Ihould receive the value
o f them, to the end they might be melted down. For which reafon they are at
prefent very rare, particularly thofe in Gold ; among the reft, two or three ol
them are fo hard to be found, that an hundred Crowns has been given for one ot
them The Roupies o f Gold are worth one and twenty Livres o f our Money :
and thofe o f Silver, thirty Sous. The Queen, during her Reign o f twenty four
hours, had that refpeft for the King, that on the back-fide o f the Pieces whereon
the tw elve Signs were Engraven, Ihe caus d the Name o f Gehan-gmr to be ftamp d
" with her own, and the name o f the place where they were Com d, all m Arabic^

Perhaps the Reader may be curious to know from whence this Illuftrious Qneen
Jc %
 o f the Indians defeended : and therefore for his fatisfa&ion, I will tell him io a
few words. Her Father, a Peifian by Nation, a man naturally Ambitious, and who
-in his own Country was no more than a bare Captain o f Horfe, without any
hopes o f riling to any higher preferment, travel’d into the Indies, to ferve the
Great Mogul, who was then Geban-guir, with an intention o f raifmg his For­
tune in a itrange Country. Gehan-gmr had then many Enemies, the Kings o f
Golconda and Vifapour being in Rebellion againft him, and feveral Raja’s having
taken their part. So foon as he came to kifs the Kings Hands, the King took
a liking to him, and gave him immediately the Command o f five hundred
Horfe. And becaufe he was very well skill'd in Aftrology, ( which is a Science
to which the Afiaticks are very much addicted) the King efteem’d him the
more, and in a fhort time made him General o f his Army. But afterwards,
forgetting his duty, and the benefits he had received, he join’d with Sultan
Kofirou, Gehan-guir’s eldeft So n ; and having gain’d a great part o f the Army,
they confpir’d together to depofe the King, and fet up his Son in his head.
There was at that time in the Court, an Eunuch o f great wit, who did mqr.e
rnifehief to the Army in his Clofet, than he could have done in the Field.
This Eunuch, fo foon as intelligence was brought o f the Rebellion, told the
King, that if his Majefty pleas’d, he would deliver ICcfrou and the Perflan Ge­
neral into his hands in a fhort time, without fo much as ftriking one broke,
orlofing one man. He was as good as his word in part, for he fo order’d
his bufinefs, by his politick contrivance^, that the General was brought to the
King, who would not prefently put him to death. Sultan Kofirou efcap’d that
bout, and continu’d the War many years againft his Father, who at length took
him in Fight, and caus’d his eyes to be pull’d out. The King "detaining the
General in cuftody, his Wife and his Daughter found a way to lave his life, as
you fhall hear. The Daughter o f the Perfian G eneral, who was his only
C h ild , was about fourteen years o f A g e , the molt accomplifh’d Beauty at
that time in all the Kingdom ; fhe was moft rarely educated, and could both
write and ffjjad the A tm an, Perfian, and Indian Languages. The Mother and
• the Daughter went every day to Court, to hear what would become o f the
G eneral; and underltanding at length, that the King intended either to put him
to death, or to banifh him, they came to the H otam, arid catting themielves
at his Ma jetties feet, they humbly begg’d' pardon, the one for her Husband,
the other for her Father; which they eafily obtain’d j the King being furpriz’d
at the Beauty o f the Virgin, to whom he afterwards furrender’d his Affedions.
All the Court was aftonifh’d afterwards, how the General and his Wife could
keep, fo private, a Daughter that was fo incomparably fair, that it fhould not
com e to the Kings knowledg. At length he lov’d her fo tenderly that .opt
being able to deny her the liberty o f Reigning one whole day in his place,
he gave her leave to fhare. with him afterwards in the Government. And fhe
it was, that gave motion to all the moft important Affairs o f State; the King
excufmg him felf to the Grandee’s o f his Court, who wonder’d why he le t the
Queen bear fo great a fw a y , by telling them, that fhe was fit for the G o­
vernment, and that it Was time for him to take his eafe.
Fig. i , and z. is as all the reft are, the backfide o f the Twelve Signs. Fig. r.
is the backfide o f the Ram, and Fig. z. o f Cancer. Both o f them fignifie the
fame thing; it being the Name o f the King, Queen, and City where they were
ftamp’d. Thefe two were coin’d at Amadabat.

, ---- ------ ------------ ---■—

—L W— -iVitaHn•■mi. id. mm————

The Gold, Silver, and Cofifier Money which' the Pormgais coin in
the Eafl Indies. •

T He G old which the Portugal Coin in Goa is better than our Louijfe s o f Gold,
and weighs one grain more than our h alf Pifiol. At the time when I was in
Goa? this piece was worth-four Roupies, oc- fix Franks- They, hold it up- at^o
.FacfT.iz.ij JrnzreZLf in India
T o rtu a a Z l d ^ c m e y :

JW iy c o v te JW o n e y .

■* r ■ ' *"
 high a rate, to the end the Merchants, who come from all the Coafts o f India
thither with their Wares, may not transport it out o f the Countrey. This piece
is called St. Thomas. Formerly when the Portuguez had the Trade o f fapon, M a -
' caffar, Sumatra, China and Mozambique, which they ftill preferve 5 and is the
place whither the Indians bring the Gold o f the Hbajfins and Saba, it was a w on ­
derful thing to fee the quantity o f Gold -which the Portuguez Coin’d, and the fe~
veral pieces o f workmanfhip which they fram’d in Gold, and lent into Forreign
Countreys, even to the Welt-Indies, by the w ay o f the Philippine Iflands. But
now they have no other places but only Mofambique to furnifh them with Gold,
they keep up thole Pieces called St. Thomafs’-sat a very high rate, left they Ihould
be carried out o f the Countrey, as I faid before. They have alfq Silver Pieces,
which they call Pardos, which go for the value o f 27 Sous o f our Money : As al-
fo a great quantity o f Imall Copper and Tin-Money, not much unlike that o f the
Kings already mentioned, which they thread upon firings in particular numbers.

The Gold and Silver Money of Mufcovy.

I Have obferved in my Relations, that in all parts o f our Europe, where they
Coin Money, there are great Sums tranfported all over H fa , where they go
currently. But for the Money o f Mufcovy there is great lofs in tranfporting it
any where elfe ; becaufe the Prince enhances it to fo high a value. The pieces as
well o f Gold as Silver are very good M e tal; for the Gold in worth is fome-
what higher than our Levels.
Fig. 1 and 2. This piece o f Gold weighs 1 4 Grains 5 and to take the Gold at
48 Grains the Ounce, would amount to 20 Sous, one Deneer, and one half-peny
o f our Money. But going in Mufcovy for 24 Sous, there would be nineteen and
an half lofs to tranfport it any where elfe.
Fig. 3 and 4. Is a piece o f Silver that weighs eight Grains j and to take an
Ounce o f Silver at three Livres ten Sous, it comes to a Sous o f our Money. But
in the Countrey you have but fifty o f thefe pieces, or at moft fornetimes fifty two
for one o f our Crowns, or a Real o f Spain, or an High-German Rixdollar.
Fig. c and 6. Is a piece o f Silver alfo which only goes in Mufcovy. But I
cannot tell in what Province it is Coin’d, in regard there are no Arms upon it, and
that the moft knowing perfons, to whom I Ihewed them, could not tell me what
the Characters meant; which makes me think it is very ancient. The piece weighs
Grains, which comes to three o f our Sous, one Deneer, and one half-peny.
This is all that I could colled o f moft certainty, concerning the Money and
Coins o f the Eaft. during the long courfe o f my Travels. N or do I believe that
any perfon has undertaken, before me, to write upon the fame Sub/ed. I f any
one o f m y Readers defires to fee the real Pieces themfelves, as 'Well m Gold and
Silver as in Tin, Copper, Shells and Almonds, he may, without queftion, obtain
the Favour from Monfeur, the firft Prefident, to whofe Study I devoted them all,
together with certain Medals, o f which that Supreme Senator, moft skilful in An­
tiquity, has great ftore, being ftill curious in fearching after what is rare.

T beend of the Coins.

TRAVERS
 Book I 51

T R A V E L S
I N

I N D I A.
The Firft: Book.
What Roads to take, in ‘Travelling from Ifpahan
to Agra, from Agra to Dehly and Gehana-
batt, where the Great Mogul Refides at pre-
fent: And how to Travel alfo to the Court of the
King of Golconda- to the King of Vifapouf,
and to many other Places in the Indies.

g h a p. i

The Road from Ifpahan to Agra through Gomron : JVhere is particu­

larly describ'd the manner of Sailing from Ormus to Suratt.

I
N this Relation o f my Indian, I will obferve the fame Method as in the Reci­
tal of m y Perjian Travels 5 and begin with the defcription o f the Roads,
which lead you from Ifpahan to Dehly and Gehanadatt,where the Great Mo­
gul Refides at prefent.
Though the Indies ftretch themfelves front Per(la for the fpace o f above 406
Leagues together, from the Ocean to that long Chain o f Mountains that runs
through the middle o f A fa from the Baft to the Weft, and which was known to
Antiquity by the Name of Mount Caucafus, or Mount Taurus-, yet there are not fo
many ways to travel out o f Perf a into the Indies, as there are to travel out o f
'Turk] into Perf a ; by reafon that between Perfa and the Indies there are nothing
but vaft Sands and Defarts,where there is no water to be found. So that you have
but tw o Roads to choofe, in going from Ifpahan to Agra. The one is partly by
Land, and partly by Sea , taking Ship at Ormus. The other altogether by Land,
through Canaahar. The firft o f thefe two Roads is amply defcrib’d, as far as Or­
mus, at the end o f my firft Book o f my Perfan Travels. So that I am now only
to (peak o f the manner o f Sailing from Ormus to Suratt.
There is no Sailing at all times upon the Indian as upon the European Seas:
You muft obferve the proper feafons, which being elaps’d, there is no more ven­
turing. The Months o f Novem ber, December, January, February and March, are
the only Months in the year to Embark from Ormus to Suratt$ and from Suratt
to
 to Ormus: But with this difference, that there is no ftirring from Suratt after the
end o f February, but you may Sail from Ormus till the end o f March, or the fif­
teenth o f -A p ril: For then the Weftern-winds, that bring fain along With them
into India, begin to blow.. During the firft four Months there blows a North-eaft-
wind, which carries them from Suratt to Ormus in fifteen Or twenty d a p . Then
veering a little to the North, it ferves as Well for thofe that are bound for Suratt,
as thole that are bound from thence. Then the Merchants generally provide for
a Voyage o f thirty, or five and thirty -days. But i f they would Sail from Ormus
to Suratt in fourteen or fifteen days, they muft take Shipping either in March, or
at the beginning o f April-, for then the Weftern-wind blows full in their
Stern.
The VefTels which Sail from Ormus run within fight o f Mafcate upon the Coaft
o f Arabia, bearing off to Sea for fear o f coming too near the Perpan Coaft. They
that come from Suratt, do the fame thing, to make the Entry o f the Gulf. But
neither the one nor the other touch at Mafcate, to avoid paying Cuftoms to an
Arabian Prince, who took that place from the Portugal.
Mafcate is a C ity fituated juft by the Sea-Tide, over againft three Rocks that,
make the Entry into the Harbour very difficult, and at the foot o f a Mountain
upon which the Portagals have three or four Forts. It is obferved that Mafcate, i
Ormus, and Balfara, are the three places in the Eaft where the heat is molt in-
fupportable. Formerly Only the Hollanders and Englljh underftood this Courfe
o f Navigation ; but fome years after the Armenians, Mahometans, Indians, and:
Banians, have built them Velfels. But it is not fo fafe to Embark in them, for
they neither underhand the Sea fo well, nor are they fo good Pilots.
The Velfels that Sail to Suratt, which is the only Part in the Empire o f the
Great Mogul, Sail within fight o f Din, and the Point o f St. fohn, and come to an
Anchor afterwards in the Road o f Couali, which is not above four Leagues from
Suratt, and two from the Mouth o f the R iver toward the North. They tranfport
their Wares from one place to another, either by Waggons* or in Boats. For
great Veilels cannot get into the River o f Suratt till they have unladen, by reafon
o f the Sands that choak it up. The Hollanders return as foon as they have landed
their Wares at Gmaii, and fo do the Englifo, it not being permitted to either to
enter into the River. But fome years fince, the King has given the Englijh a'place
to Winter in, during the rainy Seafons.
Suratt is a City o f an indifferent bignefs, defended by a pittiful Fortrefi, by the
foot w hereof you mull: pals, whither you go by Land or by Water. It has four
Towers at the four Corners, and in regard there are no Platforms upon the Walls,
Guns are planted upon woodden-Scaffolds. The Governour o f the Fort only com­
mands the Souldiers in the Fort, but has no Power in the City, which has a par­
ticular Governour to receive the King’s Cuftoms, and other Revenues through the
Extent o f his Province.
The Walls, o f the Town are only o f Earth, and the generality o f the Houfes
like Barns, being built o f Reeds, plaiftered with Cow-dung, to cover the void,
fpaces, and to hinder them without from difeerning between the Reeds what is
done within. In all Suratt there be but nine or ten Houfes which are well b u n t:
whereof the Cha-bander, or chief o f the Merchants has two or three. The
reft belong to the Mahumetan M erchants; nor are thofe, wherein tht Englijh
and HolDnders dwell, lefs beautiful; every Prefident, and every Commander, be-
ins careful to repair them ; which they put upon the account o f their Compa­
nies. However, they do but hire thofe Houfes; the King not fuffering any Franks
to have an Houle o f his owii, for fear he ffiould make a F o rtre fso f it. The Ca-
puchin Friars have built them a very convenient Convent, according to the Mode
our European Houfes, and a fair Church ; for the building o f which, I funulh d
them with good part o f the Money. But the Purchafe was made m the Name
o f a Maturate Merchant of Aleppo, w hofeN am e m s Chelebi, o f whom I have
Ipoken in my Perfa n Relations.

CH AP.
 C H A P. II.

Of the Cuftoms, Money, Exchange, Weights and Measures

> of the Indian s.

O avoid Repetitions, which cannot be fihunn’d in the Courfe o f long Travels 1

T it behoves me to let the Reader underhand what belongs to the Cuftom-
houfes, M oney, Exchange, Weights and Meafures o f the Indians.
When yo u r Commodities are unladen at Suratt, you muft carry them to the
Cuftom-houfe adjoyning to the Fort. They are very fevere, and very exa<fl in
learching the people. Particular Merchants pay from four to five per Cent at the
Cuftom-houfe for all forts o f Ware. But for the Englijh and Holland-Company,
they pay le fs: But I believe i f they did but caft up what it cofts them in Depu­
tations and Prefents which they are oblig’d every year to fend to the Court,
they would not pay much lefs for their Wares, than particular Merchants.
Gold and Silver pay two in the Hundred, and when it is. brought into the
•Cuftom-houfe, the Matter o f the Mint comes and takes it, and Coins it into the
M oney o f the Countrey. They agree with him upon the day wherein he will un­
dertake to return the new Pieces : And for fo many days as he makes them ftay
after that, he pays them Intereft, according to the proportion o f the Silver
which he receives. The Indians are very fubtil and crafty in matters o f Money
and Payments; three or four years after the Silver is coin’d, it lofes half per
Cent, and goes at the fame rate as old S ilv e r; for, fay they, it is impoffible but
that it fhould lofe in patting through fo many hands. You may carry all forts o f
Silver into the Dominions o f the Great Mogul. For in all the Frontier Cities
there is a Mint, where it is purified to the higheft perfection, as is all the Gold
and Silver in India, by the King’s Command, and coin’d into Money. Silver in Bars,
or old Plate, which is bought without paying for the fafhion, is the Silver by
which you fhall lofe leaft : For as for coin’d Silver, there is no avoiding the lofs
o f the Coinage. All their bargains are made, with a condition to pay in coin’d
Silver, within the prefent year.. And i f you make payment in old Silver, you
muft refolve to lofe according to the time fince it was firft coin’d. In all places
far remote from Cities, where the vulgar people have no great knowledg in Sil­
ver, and where there are no Changers, they will not receive a piece o f Silver,
without putting it in the fire, to try whether it be good or n o : And this is the
common practice at all Ferries and paffages over Rivers. In regard their Boats
are only made o f Ofier, covered over with an Ox-hide, and by confequence are
very lig h t ; they keep them in the Woods, and will not take them upon their
Ihoulders, till they have received their Money.
As for their Gold, the Merchants have fo many cunning tricks to hide it, that it
feldom comes to the knowledg o f the Cuftomers. They do all they can to fhift off
paying the Cuftomsjand that, fo much the rather, becaufe they do not run fo much
hazard as at the Cuftom-houfos o f Europe. For in the Indian Cuftom-houfes, i f
a man be caught in the fraud, he is quitted by paying double ; ten in the hundred,
inftead o f five : The King comparing the venture o f the Merchant to a game at
Hazard, where he plays quit or double. The King had granted to the Englifo
Captains, that they fhould not be fearch’d when they came a-fhore. But one day
one o f the Englijh Captains going to Tata: one o f the greateft Cities in India, a
little above the Mouth o f the R ive r Indoui as he was.going to pafs the River, he
Was flopp’d by the Officers o f the Cuftom-houfe, who fearch’d and rifi d him,
w hat-ever he could alledg to the contrary. They found Gold about him, o f
which he had already carried off feveral quantities, at feveral tirne^ that he had
gone from his Ship to the C it y ; but they quitted him, upon paying the ufual
Cuftom, T he Englijh-man, vex’d at fuchan affront, refolv’ d to revenge himfelf;
whichme did after a very pleafant manner. He caus’d a fucking-pig to be roafted,
and'puttiflg it, together with the dripping, and fawce, in a China-platter, covered
with a linnen-doath, he gave it a Slave to bring along after him to the City %
i * D imagining'
imagining what would fall out. As it pafs’d before the Cuftom-houfe, while the
Governors or the Cha-bander, and the Mint-Mafter' were fitting in the Divan,
they fail’d not to ftop him; and as the Slave went forward with the Plate cover’d*
they told his Matter that he muft come into the Cuftom-houfe, and that they
fnuft fee what he carried. The more the Englijh-man cry’d, that the Slave car­
ried nothing that paid any duties, the lefs he was believ’d ; fo that after a long
debate he took the Plate from his Slave, and carried it himlelf into the Tuvan }
the Governour and the Cha-bander, gravely ask’d him, why he would not be obe­
dient to the Laws ? Upon which the Englijh-man, replying in a great heat, that he
carried nothing which paid any duty, threw the Pigg among them with fuch a fu­
ry , that the Sawce and Pigg flew all upon their Garments. N ow in regard that
Swines-flefh is an abomination to the Mahometans, who believe every thing de­
fil’d that touches i t ; they were forc’d to change their Clothes, take down the
Tapeftry o f the Divan, to pull down the Divan it felfl and build another, not da­
ring to fay any thing to the Englijh-m an; for the Cha-bander, and Mint-mafter
are very obfervant to the Company, by whom they reap a great deal o f profit.
As for< what concerns the Heads o f the Companies, as well Englijh, as Dutch, and
their Affociates, they have fo great a refpeft for them, that they never fearch
them at all, when they come a-lh ore; though they will not flick to conceal their
Gold, like particular Merchants, and to carry it about them. The Trade o f Tata, '
formerly very great,begins now to decay, becaufe the Mouth o f the Rivers grows
more dangerous, and full o f Ihallows every day more than other, the Sand-hills
having almoft choak’d it up.
The Englijh finding they had Team’d the trick o f rifling their Clothes, ftudi’d out
other little ways and contrivances to conceal their Gold : And the falhion o f wear­
ing Perriwigs being newly come out o f Europe, they hid their Jacobus's, Rofe-
Nobles, and Ducats in the net o f their Perriwigs, every time they came a-Ihore.
There was a Merchant that had a mind to convey fome boxes o f Coral into
Suratt, without the knowledg o f the Cuftomers. He fwam then into the Town,
fome days before the Ship was unladed, when it might be done lecurely before
the Cuftomers had any fulpition o f any thing. ■ But the Merchant repented him
afterwards, the Commodity being Ipol’d. For the water o f Suratt River being al­
ways thick and muddy, there clung to the Coral, which had Iain a long time in
the water, a flime like a white cruft or skin, which was difficult to be got o ff; fo
that after the Coral was polifh’d, he loft by it above twelve per Cent.
I come now to the Money which goes for currant through the whole extent o f
the Great Mogul’s Dominions ; and to all the forts o f Gold and Silver, yvhich is
carri'd thither in Ingots to make profit thereof.
In the firft place you muft oblerve that it is very profitable to buy Gold and
Silver which has been wrought, to melt it into Ingots, and to refine it to the
higheft purity : For being refin’d, you pay not for the portage o f the Alloy, which
was mix’d with it before : And carrying the Gold and Silver in wedges, 37ou pay
neither to the Prince nor to the Mint what they exadt for Coinage. I f you carry
coin’d Gold, the beft pieces are Jacobus’s, Rofe-N.obles, Albertus’s, and other anci­
ent Pieces, as w ell o f Portugal, as o f other Countreys, and all forts o f Gold that
have been coin’d in former Ages. For by all thole old Pieces the Merchant is
fure to gain. Y ou may alio reckon for good Gold, and which is proper to be car-
ri’d thither, all the Ducats o f Germany, as well thofe coin’d by the feveral Prin­
ces, as by the Imperial Towns, together with the Ducats o f Poland, Hungary,
Smdeland and Danemark^-, and indeed all forts o f Ducats are taken to be o f the
lame goodhefs. The Venetian Ducats o f Gold formerly pafs’d for the beft, and
w ere worth four or five o f our Sous, more than any others 5 but about a dozen
years ago they feem to have been alter’d, not going now for any more than the
reft. There are allb Ducats which the Grand Seignior coins at Cairo, and thole o f
Sally, and Morocco: But thefe three lbrts are not fo good as the others, and are
not worth fo much as they by four Sous o f our Money.
O ver all the Empire o f the Great Mogul, all the Gold and Silver is weigh d
with weights, which they call Tolla; which weigh nine Deneers, and eight grains
o f our weights. When they have any quantity o f Gold and Silver to fell, the In­
dians ufe yellow Copper-weights, with the King’s mark, to avoid coufenage. And
 with thefe weights they weigh all the Gold and Silver at once, provided it a-
mount not to above a launder'd Toilets..For the Changers have no other weights,
but from one Tolla to a launder'd; and a hunder’d Toilets come to 38 Ounces,
2 1 Deneers, and 8 Grains. As for the Gold and Silver which is not coin'd,
i f there be much, they elTay i t ; and having put it to the touch, they bid to
t i r ^ m o f t value to out-vye one another.
In regard there are fome Merchants that have above forty or fifty thou-
fand Ducats at a time, the Indians weigh them with a w eight which is juft
the w eight o f a hunder’d Ducats, which is alfo mark’d with the Kings M ark;
and i f the hundred Ducats weigh left than the weights, they put in fo many little
ftones till the Scales are even ; and after all is weigh’d, they make good to the
Changer the weight o f thofe little ftones. But before they weigh thefe G old-
Coins, whether they be Dmats or other Pieces, they put the whole quantity into
a Charcoal-fire,till they be red -h o t; and then quench the fire with water,and take
them out again. This they do to find out them which are falfe,and to melt off the
Wax and Gum,which is cunningly dropt upon them to make them weigh the more.
Butbecaufe there are fome Pieces fo artfully hollow’d andftopt up again, that you
cannot perceive it,though they have been in the fire,the Changers take the Pieces,
and bend them;by which they know whether they are good or no;and thofe which
they fttpoet they cut in pieces. A fter they have viewed them all, they refine
thofe which they do not take to be good, and pay for fo much as proves to be
good, as for good Ducats. All this Gold they coin into that fort o f Money which
they callRoupies o f G o ld ; except thofe Ducats, which are ftamp’d only upon,
one fide which they fell to the Merchants that come from Tartary, and other
Northern Parts, as from the Kingdoms o f Boutan, Afen, and other remote parts.
With thefe Ducats the Women o f thofe Countries chiefly adorn themfelves,
hanging them upon their Head-attire, and fixing them upon their forheads. As
for the*5other Ducats, that have no figures, they are not fo much as enquir’d after
b y the Northern Merchants.
As for all the other Pieces o f Gold, there are great quantities o f them fold
to the Goldfmiths, to the Gold-wyar-drawers, and in general to all that work
in Gold. For i f they could put their Metal unmade into Roupies, they would
never coin ; which they can only do at the Coronation o f their Kings, to throw
Silver Roupies among the people ; or to fell them to the Governours o f the
Provinces, and other Grandees o f the Court, who then want great quantities
o f them to prefent to the new King at his firft coming to his Throne. For
they have not always Jew els or other things rich enough to prefent him, as
■ well, as that tim e, as at another Feffiyal, o f which I fhall fpeak in due place,
when they w eigh the King every year. At fech times I fay, they are very
plad o f Gold Roupies ; as alio to prefent to fech Favourites at the Court, by
whole intereft they hope to gain higher Commands, and more confiderable G o ­
vernments. . ,
In one o f m y Travels, I found b y experience the vertue o f thefe Roupies of
Gold. Cha-iehan, Father o f Orang-z.eb who now reigns, had given to one o f the
Lords o f his C ourt, the Government o f the Province o f Tata, w hereof Sjmda
' is the Metropolis. N ow though the v ery firft year o f his Government, there
w ere very great complaints made againft him, by reafon o f the Tyranny which
he exercifed over his people, and his great extortions, the King fuffer d him
to continue four years, and then recall’d him. All the people o f Tata were
o v erjo y’d , believing the King had call’d him away, only to put him to death s
but it fell out quite otherwife ; for the King carefs’d him, and gave him the
Government o f Halabas, more confiderable than that which he had quitted.
This kind reception, which he had at the Kings hands, proceeded from this,,
that before he came to Dgra,he had fent before him a prefent o f ? 000° R ° uPie;>ot
Gold and about 20000 Roupies o f Gold more to Begum-Saneb, who had then
the whole pow er in her hands; as alfo to other Ladies and Lords.at the
Court to fupport his Reputation. All the Courtiers are very defirous to have
a great quantity o f Gold ; becaufe it lies in a little room, and then becaufe they
covet as a great Honour,to leave vaft Sums behind them, to their Wives and Chil­

- ,
dren, o f w hich the King muft not know, For as I' (hall tell you m another place,,
3 * jp £ wii’Cn
, 1
<
when any great Lord dies, the King is Heir- to all his Eftate ; his Wife having no
more than his Jew els.
But to return to our Roupies o f G o ld ; you muft take notice, that they are
not fo currant among the Merchants. For in regard one o f them is not worth
above fourteen Roupies, which make one and twenty Livres o f our Money, at
thirty Sous theRoupie, and that there are few o f .theft Roupies o f Gold to 1
had, but in the Houfes o f Great M en ; when it falls out that they make any'pay­
ment, they will put them at a Roupie o f Silver, or at leaft at a fourth part o f a
Roupie more than it is worth, which will never turn to the Merchants profit.
Cha-Eft-Kan the King's Unckle, to whom I had fold a parcel o f Goods at 96000
Roupies, when he came to pay me, ask'd me what Money I would be content to
take, whether Gold or Silver. Before I could return him an anfiver, he added,
that i f I would leave it to him, I lhould take Gold Roupies : N or did he give me
this advice,bu tbecau fthe believ'd it would turn to his advantage. I told him
I would be rul’d by him thereupon he caus’d his Servants to tell me out fo ma­
ny Roupies in Gold, as made up the juft Sum which was d u e : But he would force
me to take the Roupie in Gold for fourteen Roupies and an half in Sih er, though
among the Merchants they went but for fourteen. I was not ignorant of i t ; but
I thought it beft to receive my Money according to the Prince s humour, in hopes
he might make me amends another time, either for the whole, 01 part o f what
I might loft. I let him alone two days, after w hich I went to him again, and told
him I had tried to put off his Roupies at the price I had received then1 ; fo that
in the payment o f 96000 Roupies, I had loft 342 ^ and one ‘ ^n^.,^0UP^e . 0^
Gold which he forc’d me to take at fourteen Roupies and an half o f Silver, being
worth but fourteen. Thereupon he fell into a paftion, and told me he would lee
as many Lafhes beftow’d upon the Changer, or Holland-Brokcc, whole fault fo-
ever it w ere ; that he would teach them to underftand Money ; that they were
old Roupies, and were worth more by a fixteenth part o f a Silver Roupie, than
. the Roupies which were coin’d at that time. In regard I knew the humour o f
the M atte Princes, with whom thsse is no contefting, I let him fay what he
pleas'd; but when he came to himftlf, and began to put on a finding look I de-
fir’d him that he would be pleas’d to let me return the Summ which I had re­
ceived,the next days or elfe that he would be pleas’d to pay me what was wanting,
and that I would take a Roupie at i4and one 1 6th. fince he affur d me they w ere
worth fo much. The Prince for a while gave me a feurvy look, not fo much as
fpeaking one word. At length be ask’d me, whether I had ftill the Pearl, which
he had refus’d to buy. I told him I had, and immediately pu it out 0 my
Boldine, and gave it him. The Pearl was large, and o f a g ° ° d
fhap’d ; which was the reafon he refus'd it before. When I had given it to him,
well, faid he, let us talk no more o f what is paft; how much will you have, in a
word, for this Pearl ? I ask’d him feven thoufand Roupies, and indeed rather than
I would havecarri’d it into France, I would have taken three. j e i g i v e ‘ thee
•laid he, feven thoufand Roupies for this Pearl, I fhall make ee
lots thou complain’ft o f in the firft bargain. Come to ^ o rro , Caffat
thee five thoufand Roupies, aqd that’s very fa ir: Thou ftialt have alfo a Caftat
and an Horfe. I made my obeyfance to him, and defir d him to g ve me H
that fhould be young, and fit for ftrvice, becaufe I had a great p u r n q r t ° tak<T:
The next day he fent me a Robe, a Cloak, two
the Apparel that the Princes are wont to give to thofe tc) w h o i» J y in i:e n d y
Honour. The Cloak and Robe was o f Satin purfied with Gold 5 the two Girdles
ftrip’d with Gold and Silver ; the Cap was o f Calicut, dy d >nto a F]ame ,
w ith ftripes o f G o ld : The Horfe had no Saddle, but was c° v.er pf . ^ ‘th gvCTV
Velvet foot-cloath, edg’d ahout with a ftnall Stiver-fringe.. The Bridle ^
lfrait, with Silver-ftuds in fome places. 1 ^ then lodz’d
back'd ; for fo foon as I brought him to the Holland-Houie, w h e re 1 I
a young man got upon his back ; but he was no fooner ^ut the Ho ^ g
and pranc’d at that rate, that having kick d down an H u ttt a -Horfe was
he had like to have kill’d the Hollander. Finding that uc Storv to him
not for my turn, I fent him back to Cha-eft-Kan, and relating Countrey to
I told him I did not believe that he defir d I fhould return in y
 bring him back Tome rarities which I had promis’d him, as he made me be­
lieve he did. All the while I talk’d, he laugh’d, and afterwards lent for the
Horle which his Father in his life time us’d to ride upon. It was a tall Per- •
fan f-Iorle, that had formerly coft five thouland Crowns, but was then twenty
eight years old. T hey brought him bridl’d and faddl’d, and the Prince would
. rf-«ds have me §e t UP pretence. He had one o f the moft ftately walks
that3ever I knew in a H o rle; and when I alighted, well, faid he, art thou fa-
tisfied? I dare fay, that Horfe will never give thee a fall. I thank’d him,
and at the fame time took my leave o f him 3 and the next day, before my
departure, he lent me a great Basket o f Apples. It was one o f the fix that Cha-
jehan had feot him, as they came from the Kingdom o f Kachemir 5 there was
in the Basket alfo a great Perjian M elon: All this might be worth a hundred
Roupies, which I prefonted to the Holland Commanders Wife. As for the
H orle, I rode him to Golconda, where I fold him for five hundred Roupies,
as old as he was, being a good lufty Beaft.
T o return to our difcourle o f Money , I will add this to what I have
faid already, that you muft never carry Louiss o f Gold to the Indies, nor
Spanijh nor Italian Piftol.s, nor any other fort o f Money coin’d within thele
few years 5 for there is great lofs by it 5 for the Indians refine all, and count
only upon the refinings. Laftly, every one ftrives to fteal the cuftom o f their
Gold 5 and when the Merchant has got the knack o f concealing it, he may
gain five or fix o f our Sous in every Ducat.
I come now to the forts o f Silver Money 3 which you muft diftinguifh in­
to Money o f the Country, and Forreigti Money 1 And firft o f the Forreigri
Coins.
The Forreign Silver Coins which are carried into the Indies, are the R ix -
dollars o f Germany and the Reals o f Spain. The firft are brought by the Merchants
that come from Poland, from the Lelfer Tanary, and the Borders o f Mufco-
viai The others by thofe that come from Conjlantinople, Smyrna, and Aleppo,
and the greateft part by the Armenians, who fell their Silk into Europe. All
thele Merchants endeavour to convey their Silver through Perfia without be­
ing difcovered 3 for i f the Cuftomers find it out, they will be forced to carry
their Silver to the Mint-Mafters to be coined into Abafifis, which is the Kings
Coin 5 and thele Abafifi s being( carried into India, are again coined into Rou­
pies, whereby the Merchant loles ten and a quarter per Cent, as well by reafon o f
the coinage, as by paying the Kings duties in Perfia.
To let you underftand in a few words, how they came to lole this ten and
a quarter per Cent, from Perfia to the Indies, and fometimes more, according
to the nature o f the Reals, which they ufually carry into Perfia 5 you mult
call to mind, what I have already laid concerning the Money and Exchanges
o f Perfia, in the firft Volume. I obferv’d, that a Real in Perfia goes for 23
Chaez, which make three Abajfiis and a quarter 5 and that fometimes, when
Silver is Icarce, they will give a Cbaez and a half for one. That the Abafifi
is worth four Chaez, and the Toman fifty Abajfiis, or two hundred Chaez. I f
you carry fix Tomans and a half to the Indies, you have for every Toman tw enty-
nine Roupies and a h alf 3 and confequently for fix Tomans and a half, a hundred
and ninety-one Roupies and a quarter: I f you carry to the Indies Reals of Ssvde,
for a hundred you lhall have from 2 1 3 to 2 1 5 Roupies. I f you carry M exi­
can Reals, for a hundred you lhall have no more than 2 1 2 . So that when
for a hundred Reals you have but two hundred and twelve Roupies, you gam
ten Reals and a quarter, m an hundred Reals j but by the Sevillian Reals you
, profit eleven per Cent. .
'r.-;. y h e re are three or four forts o f Spanijh Reals, and they give for a hundred
according to their goodnefs, from 2 18 to 2 1 4 and 2 1 j Roupies. The belt
o f all are thofe o f Sevil, for when they are full w eight, they will give for
a hundred, 2 1 3 Roupies 5 and fometimes 2 1 j , according as Silver is either
fcarce or plentiful. ' . ,
The R eal o f Spain ought to weigh three D ram s, (even Grains and a halt
more than tw o’ Roupies. But the Silver o f the Roupies is much better.. For >
the Roupy is in weight eleven Deneers and fourteen Grains 3 but the Sevil
 Real, like our white Crown, is but juft eleven Deneers. The Mexican Real
goes at ten Deneers and twenty-one Grains. For the Spanifh Real, that weighs
■ feventy-three Vais, you have four Mamoudi’s and a half, and one Mamoudi is
worth twenty Pecha’s ; but they mult be very good, and as I have laid -al­
ready, feventy-three Vais in w eight: eighty-one Vais making an Ounce, one
Val coming to feven Deneers.
For the Rixdollars o f Germany, in regard they are heavier than the Rbals,
they will give you for an hundred, as high as an hundred and fixteen Roupies.
W here you are to take notice, that in giving for an hundred Reals, or an hun­
dred Rixdollars, two hundred and fifteen, or two hundred and fixteen Roupies,
it feems that every Roupy ought to be worth lefs than thirty Sous. But if
the Merchant count the portage o f the Silver, and the Cuftoms, he will find
that every Roupy will ftand him in more. But that the Merchant may make
his profit, he mult take notice, that all the Reals o f Mexico, and thole o f Seyilx
are in weight one and twenty Deneers and eight Grains, that is, five hundred
and twelve Grains ; and for thole that are no better than our white Crown,
they are to be in weight one and twenty Deneers and three Grains, which
makes five hundred and nine Grains. All Dollars and Reals are weigh’d, a
hundred at a time, and when they are wanting in weight, they add little Hones,
as when they weigh Gold, according to what I fhall tell you by and by.
We come now to the Money o f the Country. The Indian Money is the
Silver Roupy, the Half, Quarter, Eighteenth and Sixteenth‘part. The weight
o f the Roupy is nine Deneers and one G rain ; the value o f the Silver is ele­
ven Deneers and fourteen Grains. They have alio another fort: o f Silver Mo­
ney. which they call Mamoudi’s, but this goes no-where but in Surat, and in,
the Province o f Gutterat.
The Indians have alfo a fort o f linall Copper Money, which is call d Pecha 5
which is worth about two o f our Liards, a Liard being the fourth part o f a
Sous. There is alfo the H alf Pecha, two Pecha’s, and Four Pecha s. Accor­
ding to the euftom o f the Province where you travel, you have for a Roupy
o f Silver m ore or 1els o f thele Pecha’s. In my laft Travels, Roupy went
at Surat for nine and forty Pecha’s. But the time was, when it was worth
fifty,, and another time, when it went but for fix -and forty. At Agra and Ge-
hanabat, the Roupy was valued at fifty-five and fifty-fix Pecha s. And the
real bn is, beeaufe the nearer you go to the Copper Mines, the more Pecha s
you have for a Roupy. As for the Mamoudi, it is always valued at forty
Pecha’s. .
There are two other forts o f fmall Money in the Dominions o f the Great Mo­
duli, which are little bitter Almonds and Shells. Thefe little bitter Almonds,
which are brought out o f Perjia, are only made ufe of in the Province of Gttz.e-
ratt; as I have oblerved in the firft part o f my Relations. They grow in dry and
barren places among the Rocks, and the Tree, that bears them, is almoft like our (
Ballard Spanijh-Broom, They call thele Almonds Baden : Nor is there any Co 0-
quintida 16 bitter. They give for a Pecha fometimes thirty five, and fometimes
forty*
Their other fmall Money are the little Shells which they call Cori; the fides
whereof turn circularly inward : N or are they to be found in any part ot the
World, but in the Maldives Blands. They are the greateft part o f the Revenue
o f the King o f that Ifland. For they are tranfported into all the Territories ot
the Great Mogull; into the Kingdoms o f Fifapour and Golcanda; and into tne
Iflands o f America to ferve inftead o f Money. Near the Sea they give »o lor a
Pecha. But the further you go from the Sea, the lefs you have ; lo that at Agra*,
they will not give you above j o or j $ for a Peeha. As to what remains accord­
ing to the Accompt o f the Indians,
10 0 0 0 0 Roupies make a Lekke.
10 0 0 0 0 Lekks make a Kraur.
1 0 .0 0 0 Kraur’s make a Padan,
10 0 0 0 0 Padan’s make a Nil. , rAa.
In the Indies, the Village muftbe very final], where there does not ref’de a £ a“
ker, whom they call Cheraffv whofe bufinefs it is to remit Money an| ^ g“
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Exchange. In regard that thefe Bankers hold a Correfpondence with the G over-
nours o f the Province, they raife as they pleafe themfelves, the Roupie for the
Pecha’s, and the Pecha’s for the Shells. All the Jew s that deal in Money and Ex­
change in the Empire o f the Grand Seignior, are accounted a moft fubtil lort o f
people. But in the Indies they would be fcarce thought fit to be Apprentices to
thefe Bankers. They have one very bad cuftom in making o f P aym ents: And I have
already obferv’d it, in reference to their Roupies o f Gold. When they make any
Payment in that fort o f money, they tell y e , ’twas a great while ago that any
Silver Roupie was coin’d ; that they are worth lefs than thofe which are new, or
but lately coin’d ; for that by palling through many hands they wear away, and
become lighter. And therefore when you make any bargain, you mull always
agree t© be paid in Roupies Cha-jenni, that is, in new Silyer j otherwife, they wiU
 pay you in Roupies coin’d fome fifteen or twenty years ago, and upward ; where­
by you will lofe four in the hundred. For they will have one fourth, or at leaft
one eighth per Cent, allow’d for thofe that were coin’d but two years before : So
that the poor people that cannot read the year wherein the Roupies were coined,
are fubjeft to be cheated; for they will always abate a Pecha or half a Pecha upon
a Roupie, or three or fourCori’s upon a Pecha.
As for counterfeit Silver, there is very little among them. I f you receivefofte
falle Roupie in a Bagg from any particular perfon,’tis better to cut it to pieces,
and lofe it, than to (peak o f i t ; for i f it fhould come to be known, there might
be danger in it. For you are commanded by the King’s Law to return the Bagg
where you received i t ; and to return it from one to another, till you can find out
the Counterfeiter; who, i f he be apprehended, is only fentenc’d to lofe his hand.
I f the Counterfeiter cannot be found, and that it be thought that he who paid
the Money is not guilty, he is acquitted upon feme fmall amercement. This brings
great profit to the Changers. For when there is any Summ o f Money received
o r paid, the Merchants caufe him to look it over, and for their pains, they have
one fixteenth o f a Roupie in the hundred.
As for the Money which is paid out o f the Sarcjuet, or King’s Exchequer, there
is never any found that is counterfeit: For all the Money that is carried in thither,
is exactly view ’d by the King’ s Bankers u The Great Lords have alfo their par­
ticular Bankers. Before they put up the Money into theTreafury, they throw
it into a great Charcoal-fire, and when the Roupies are red-hot, they quench the
fire, by throwing water upon i t ; and then take out the Money. I f there be any
Piece that is white, or that has the leaft mark o f Alloy,- it isprefentJy cut in ,
pieces. As often as thefe Roupies' are carried into the Treafury, they mark the
Pieces with a Puncheon, which makes an hole, but not quite through; and there
are fome Pieces that have feven or eight holes made in that manner, to (hew that
th ey have been fo many times in the Exchequer. They are all put, a thoufand
Pieces together, in a bagg, feal'd with the Seal o f the great Treafurer; and
the number o f years fuperlcrib’d, fince they were coin’d. And here you are to
take notice, whence the Treafurers profit arifes, as well that o f the King s Trea-
furer, as that o f the particular Treafurers o f the Great Lords o f the Kingdom.
When there is any bargain made, they agree for new Roupies coind the fame
y e a r: but when they come to receive the payment, the Treafurers will make it
in old Roupies, wherein there is a lofs o f fix per Cent. So that if .they will have
new Silver, the Merchants muft compound with the Treafurer. In my fift V oy­
age, I went to vifit Cha--Eft-Kan according to my promife, to let him have the
firft fight o f what I brought along with me. So that as foon as I arrived at Su-
ratt, I fent him w o rd ; and received his Orders to meet him at Chottpart, a C ity
in the Province o f Decan, to which he had laid Siege. Coming to him, in a lit­
tle time, and a few words, I fold him the greateft part o f what I had brought along
with me out o f Europe: And he told me that he expected every day, that Money
jfhould be fent him from Suratt to pay the Army, and to pay me alfo at the fame <'
time for what he had bought o f me. I could not imagin however, that fo great a
Prince as he, that commanded fe great an Army, had not ftore o f Money by him j
but rather conjectur’d, that he had an intention to make me fome abatement, up­
on thofe Pieces which he would put upon me in payment, as he had ferv d me be­
fore. It fell out, as I farefaw. But for Provifions for my felf, my Men, and my
Horfes, he took fuch order, that there was great plenty brought me, night and
morning, and for the molt part he fent for me my felf, to his own Table. Ten or
tw elve days thus paft away, and not a word of the Money that I expected : So
that being refolv’d to take m y leave o f him, I went to his Tent. He appeared t o
be fomewhat furpriz’d, and looking upon me with a frow ning-brow ; wherefore
w ill you be gone, faid he, before you are paid ? or who d’you think, fhall pay
you after wards,if you go away before you receive your Money? Upon thefe words,
with a countenance as ftern as his, m y K ing, replied I, will fee me paid. For his
goodnefs is fuch, that he caufes all his Subjects to be paid, that have not receiv e
fatisfadion for fuch Goods as they fell in forreign Countries. And what courfe
will he take, anfwer’d he in a great ch oler: with two or three ft° ut ot w ar>
fold-1, which he will fend either to the Port o f Suratt, or toward the Coalts to
 wait for the Ships that come from M occa. He feemed to be netled at that reply,
but not daring to give any more way to his choler, he ordered his Treafurer im­
mediately to give me a Letter o f Exchange to Atrrengabad. I was the more
glad o f that, becaufe it was a place through which I was to pafs in mv way to
Golcanda ; befides that, it would fpare me the carriage and the hazards o f my
Money. The next day I had my Bill o f Exchange, and took leave o f the Prince,
w h r 'ftas nothing difpleafed, but told me, that i f I-return'd to the Indies, I fhould
not fail to com e and fee him, which I did in my fixt and Iaft Voyage. When I
came to Suratt , he was at Bengala, where I fold him all the reft o f my Goods that
I could not put off either to the King o f Ferfia , or the Great M ogul.
But to return to the payment o f my Money, I was no fodner arrived at A ttreng-
gabat, but I went to find the great Treafurer; who no fooner law me, but he told
me, he knew wherefore I came ; that he had received Letters o f advice three
days before, and that he had already taken the Money out o f the Treafury to pay
me. When he had brought me all the Baggs, I caufed my Banker to open them,
who law them to be Roupies, by which I was to lofe two in the hundred. Upon
that I thank’d the Treafurer very heartily, telling him, I underftood no fiich deal­
ing, and that I would fend and complain off him to C h a -E ft-K am 5 and declare
to him, that he fhould either give order that I fhould be paid in new Silver, or
elfe let me have my Goods again, which I prefently did. But not receiving an
anfwer fo foon as I knew I might have done, I went to the Treafurer, and told
him, I would go m y felf, and fetch away m y Goods. I believe he had received or­
der what to doj for feeing I was refolved to go; he told me he was very unwilling
I fhould put my fe lf to fo much trouble, and that it would be better for us to agree
among our felves. After many contefts about the two in the hundred, which he
would have made me lofe, I was contented to abate one, and had loft the other,
had I not happily met with a Banker who wanted Silver, and had a Bill o f Ex­
change to pay at Golconda ; fo that he was glad to make ufe o f mine, and gave
m e a Bill to be paid at Golconda, being m y full Summ, at fifteen days fight.
The Changers to try their Silver, make ufe o f thirteen little pieces, one half
Copper, and the other Silver, which are their Sayes.

w The manner how

w their thirteen Say- yl A
J? pieces are fil’d ; the
H upper-half being Cop-11
|j per, and the lower-

' * i'E- Theft

 Thcfe thirteen pieces differing all in goodrfefs, they never make ufe o f them.,
but when any queftion arifes concerning a fmall quantity o f Silver, or o f any
wrought Silver. For they refine all their great quantities. All that kind o f Silver
is bought by the weight which they call Telia, which weighs nine Deneers, and
eight Grains, or 32 Val’s 5 81 Vais, making an Ounce : So that an hundred Tolla’s
make 3 8 Ounces, 2 1 Deheers, and 8 Grains.
, *' '

See here the differences of the thirteen Goodneffes of Silver.

T H E firft, which. is the loweft in goodnefs, they take at fifteen Pecha’s to the
Tolla, which makes o f our Money nine Sous, two Deneers.
The fecond, at eighteen Pecha’s, which make ten Sous, two Deneers.
The third, at ten Pecha’s, which make twelve Sous, fix Deneers.
The fourth, at thirteen Pecha’s, which make fourteen Sous, fix Deneers.
The fift, at fixteen Pecha’s, which make fifteen Sous, ten Deneers.
The fixt, at nineteen Pecha’s, which make feventeen Sous, fix Deneers.
The feventh, at thirty-three Pecha’s, which make nineteen Sous, two De­
neers.
The eighth, at thirty'five Pecha’s, which make twenty Sous, ten Deneers.
The ninth, at thirty-eight Pecha’s, which make twenty-two Sous, fix D e ­
neers.
The tenth, at forty Pecha’s, which make twenty-four Sous, two Deneers.
The eleventh, at forty-three Pecha s, which make twenty-five Sous, ten D e­
neers.
The twelfth, at forty-fix Pecha’s, which make twenty-feven Sous, fix Deneers.
The thirteenth, at forty-nine Pecha’s, which make nineteen Sous, two D e­
neers.
Here it will not be amifs to give you an hint, how far the cunning extends, not
only o f the Cberaffs or Changers, but o f all the Indians in general; and it fhall
fuffice to give you one example, which is very particular, and o f which our
Europeans make no account: Which is this ; that o f all the Gold, which re-
■ mains upon the ftone upon which they make the EfTay, and o f which we make no
reckoning, they are fo far from lofing the leaft atome o f that fmall matter, that
they fetch it all of£ by means o f a Ball made half o f Black-pitch, and h alf o f
Soft-wax, with which they rub the ftone that carries the G o ld ; at the end o f
fome years the Ball will fhine, and then they get out all the Gold thaffticks to it.
This Ball is about the bignefs o f one o f our Tennis-Balls; and the Stone is fuch
a one as our Goldfmiths generally ufe.
Thus much o f the Cuftom-houfes and Money currant among the Indians. It
remains to fpeak o f their manner o f Exchange.
As all the Goods which are made in the Empire o f the Great Mogull, and
fome part o f the Kingdoms o f Golconda and Ttfapour are brought to Suratt to be
tranfported into feveral parts o f Afia and Europe} the Merchants, when they go
from Surat to buy Commodities in the feveral Cities where they are made, as
at Labor, -Agra, Amadabat, Seronge, Brampour, Daca, Patna, Banarou, Golconda,
Decan, Ttfapour, and Dultabat, take up Money at Surat, and are difcharg’d at the
places where they go, by giving kind for kind. But when it happens that the ^
Merchant is (hort o f M oney in thofe places, and that there is a neceflity for him
to take up Money to compleat his Markets, he muft then return it at Suratt with­
in two Months, paying monthly for the Change.
From Labor to Suratt the Exchange goes at fix and a quarter p er Cent,-
From Amadabat, from one, to one and an half.
From Seronga, at three.
From Bram pour, from two and an half, to three.
From D aca, at ten.
From Banarou , at fix.
, .From the three laft places they make their Bills of Exchange only to A gra ^
 and at A gra they make others for Suratt, the whole at the fame price as I have gg
fet down. as
From Golconda, from four to five. ss
And for Goa the fame. ®
From D ecan at three. ®
From V ifapour at three. ®
F. «m D ultabat, from one to one and an half.
Some years the Exchange rifes from one to two per Cent, by reafbn o f certain s
Raja’s or petty Vaffal Princes that difturb Trade, every one pretending that the
Merchandizes ought to pafs through his Countrey, and pay Toll. There are two B
particularly between A g ra and Am adabatt, the one called the R aja o f A n tiva r , ffj
and the other the R aja o f Bergam , who very much moleft the Merchants for
this v ery caufe. But you may avoid pafling through the Territories o f thefe Prin­
ces, taking another road from A g ra to S u ratt, thorough Seronge and Bram poi.r. m
But they-are fertil Lands, divided with feveral R ivers, without Bridges or Boats,
and it is impoflible to go that w ay, till two months after the rains are fallen.
Which is the reafon that thofe Merchants who muft be at Suratt when the feafon ^
permits them to take the Sea, are forc’d to pafs through the Territories o f thefe e®
tw o R d jd s, becaufe they can pafs that way at all times, even in the time that the g
rains fall, which only knit and harden the Sand. m
N or are you to wonder that the Exchange runs fo high ; for they that truft out
their Money, run the hazard, by obligation, o f lofing their Money, i f the M er- 3
chants fhould be robb’d. ™
When you come to Suratt to Embarque, there is Money enough. For it is the g
greateft Trade o f the Grandees o f the Indies to venture their Money by Sea ss
from thence for Ormus, B alfara, and M occa 5 nay even as far as Bantam , A chen,
and the Philippine Iflands. For M occa and B alfara, the change runs from zz to O
2 4 per Cent. And to Ormus, from 1 6 to 20. And to the other places which I have
named, the change runs proportionable to the diftance. _ fe
I have but one word to fay o f their Weights and Meafures ; I have given you ^
in the Margin the fift part o f an Ell o f A g ra , and the fourth part o f an. Elf o f m
A m adabat and Suratt. As for their Weights, the M en is generally 69 Pound, and . »
the Pound 1 6 Ounces. But the M en which they weigh their Indico withal, is ®
but j? Pound. At Suratt they talk o f a Serre, which is one and three fourths o f m
a Pound, and the Pound is 1 6 Ounces. h

CHAP. III. ■
O f their Carriages, and the manner of Travelling in India.

B Efore w e fet forward upon the road, it will be convenient to fpeak o f their
Carriages, and the manner o f travelling in India ; which, in my opinion, is
more commodious than any thing that has been invented for eafe in Franct- or
Italy. Quite otherwife it is in P erfia, where they neither make ufe o f Abes,
Mules, or Horfes, but tranfport all their Wares to the Indies upon Oxen, or in
Wains, their Countreys being fo near to one another. I f any Merchant carries an
ikvrXe out o f Perfia, ’tis only for fhew , or to walk in his hand, or to fell to lome
In d ia n Prince. . .
T h ey will lay upon an Oxes back 300, or 3 jo pound weight. And it is a won­
derful thing to fee ten or twelve thoufand Oxen at a time all laden with Rice,
Corn and Salt, in fuch places where they exchange thefe Com m odities: Carrying
G/orn w here only Rice grows, R ice where only Corn grow s, and Salt where there
is none at all. They make ufe o f Camels fometimes, but very rarely, they being
f^ tic u la rly appointed to carry the luggage o f great Perfonages. When the fea-
requires haft, and that they would fpeedily conveigh their Merchandize to
Suratt to fhip them off, they load them upon Oxen, and not in Wains. And in re­
gard that the Territories o f the Great M ogul are very well manur’d, the Fields.
0 * E z are
 are fenc’d'with very good Ditches $ and to every Field there belongs a Pond to
preferve the water. There is this great inconvenience for Travellers; that when
they meet with thefe numerous Caravans in ftreight places, they are forc’d to
ftay two or three days till they are all paft by. They that drive thefe Oxen, follow
no other Calling as long as they live, nor do they dwell in houfes; yet they carry
their Wives and Children along with them. There are fome among them that have
an hundred Oxen o f their own, others more or I d s ; and they have always "one,
who is their Chief, that takes as much ftate as a Prince, and has his Chain o f Pearl
hanging about his neck. When the Caravan that carries the Corn, and that which
carries the Salt happen to meet, rather than yield the road,, they frequently enter
into very bloody D ilu te s. The Great Mogull considering one day that thefe
quarrels were very prejudicial to Trade, and the tranfportation o f neceflaryPro-
vifions from place to place, lent for the two Chiefs o f the Caravan, and after he
had exhorted them, for the common good and their own intereft, to live (quietly
together, and not to quarrel and fight when they met, gav<? to each o f them a
Leek, or an hundred thoufand RoupieS, and a Chain o f Pearl.
That the Reader m ay the better underftand the manner o f travelling in the / « -'
d ies,he is to take notice,that among the Idolaters o f that Countrey there are four
Tribes, which are called Manor?s, each o f which may confift o f an hundred thou­
fand Souls. Thefe people live always in Tents, and live only upon the tranfporting
o f Merchandize from Countrey to Countrey. The firft o f thefe Tribes carry no­
thing but Corn, the fecond Rice, the third Pulfe, and the fourth Salt, which they
fetch, from S u ra tt, and all along from as. far as Cape-Camdjrin. Thefe Tribes are
alfo diftinguifhed in this manner : Their Priefts, o f whom I fhall fpeak in another
place, mark the forheads o f the firft, with a red-Gum, about the bredth o f a
CroWn; and then they draw a ftreak all the length o f his nofe, flicking grains o f
Wheat upon it, fometimes ten, and fometimes twelve. Thofe o f the fecond Tribe
are mark’d with yellow-Gum in the fame place, with grains o f Rice. Thofe o f
the third are mark’d with a grey-Gum , down to the fhoulders, and grains o f
Millet. Thofe o f the fourth Tribe carry tied about their necks a Bagg, with a
great lump o f Salt in it, weighing fometimes eight or ten pounds, ('for the hea­
vier it is, the more they glory in carrying i t ; ) and with this Bagg they thump
their ftomacks, as a fign o f repentance every morning before they fay their Pray­
ers. They have all in general a little line or twift, like a Scarfi about their necks,
at the end w hereof hangs a little Silver-box, like a Relique-box, wherein they
enclofe a little fuperftitious writing which their Priefts give them ; they tie them
alfo about their Oxen and other Cattel, which are bred in their Herds, for which
they have a particular affe&ion, and love them as tenderly as children, efpecially
i f they have no children o f their own. Their Women wear only a piece o f Ca­
licut white or painted, fome fix or five times doubled from their wafts down-,
ward. From their wafts upward they cut their flefh into feveral forms o f
Flowers, as they do that apply Cupping-glafies, which they paint in various
colours with the juice o f Grapes, that their skin feems to be all made o f Flowers*
Every morning, while the men load the Beafts, and that the Women fold up the
Tents, the Priefts that follow them, fet up in the moft convenient place o f the
Plain where they lodg’d a certain Idol in the form o f a Serpent in wreaths, upon
a Perch fix or feven foot high ; to which they come all in files to worfhip, their
Women going three times about. After the Ceremony is over, the Priefts take
care o f the Idol, and load it upon an Ox particularly appointed for that pur-
pofe. ~
The Caravan o f Waggons feldom exceeds the number o f an hundred or two
hundred at moft. Every Waggon is drawn by ten or twelve Oxen ; and attended
by four Souldiers, which the perfon that owes the Merchandize is oblig’d to pay.
T w o o f them march upon each fide o f the Waggon, over which there are two
Ropes thrown a-crofs, the ends w h ereof they hold in their hands, to the end, that
i f the Waggon come to lean on one-fide in. ill-way, the tw o Souldiers on 1%
other fide may keep it from over-turning, by pulling the Ropes with all tm ir
ftrength.
All the Waggons that cope to Suratt, either from r 4gra, or any other parts
o f the Empire, and which return through Mgra, or anabatt, are bound to carry
back
 back the Lime that comes from Barocha, which, after it is temper’d, and laid on
becomes as hard as Marble.
I come now to the manner o f travelling in India, to which purpofe they make
ufe o f Oxen inftead o f Horfes, and there are fome, whofe pace is as eafy as the
amble o f our Hackneys. But you muft take a care, when you either buy or hire
,an O x to ride upon, that the horns be not above a foot in 'length. For if they be
longer, when the flies begin to fling, he will chafe, and tofs back his horns, and
ftrike them into the ftomack o f the Rider, as oftentimes it has hapned. Theft
Oxen are rid like our Horfes, and inftead o f Snaffles or Bitts, they have only a
Rope drawn through the mufcly part o f the muzzle or noftrils. In firm ground
w here there are no ftones, they never fhooe their O xen; but only in rough pla­
ces, w here not only the ftones but the heat will waft and chop the h oof Where­
as in Europe we tie our Oxen by the horns, the Indians only put-a thick frufs upon
their necks, that keeps faft a Coller o f Leather four fingers broad, which they
have nothing to do but to put about their necks when they fatten them to the
Waggon. •. .
They ufe alfo for Travel little Coaches, but very tight, that will hold two
perfons ; but generally they ride alone for more eafe, carrying only their ne-
ceflary Cloak-Bags along with them ; with a fmall Veifel o f Wine, and a final!
quantity o f Provifions, for which there is a proper place under the Coach,
where they tye the two Oxen. Thefe Coaches have their Cu-rtains and Seats
like ours, yet are not hung: But in .my laft Travels I caus’d one to be made after
our manner; and the two Oxen that drew it, coft me near upon fix-hundred
Roupies. N or is the Reader to wonder at the price ; for there are fome o f
thefe Oxen that are very ftrong, and that will travel upon the trot twelve or
fifteen leagues a-day for fixty days together. When they have gone half the
days journey, they give them two or three Balls,as big as one o f our two-penny-
loaves, o f Wheat kneaded up with butter and black-fugar. The hire o f a Coach
comes to a Roupie a-day more or left. From Suratt to iAgra is forty days jour­
ney, and you pay for the whole journey from forty to forty-five Roupies, From
Suratt to Goicunda, being almoft the fame diftance, the fame price is obferved ;
and by the fame proportion you may travel over all the Indies.
They who have more to fpend, for their own eafe make ufe o f a . Palianquin,
wherein they travel very commodioufly. This is a fort o f little Couch ffx or fe-
ven foot long, arid three broad, with balifters round about it. A fort o f Cane,
call’d Bambouc, which they bend like an Arch, fuftains the covering o f the P a l-
lanquin , which is either o f Satin o rC lo a th o f Gold ; and when the Sun lies up­
on one fide, a Slave that goes by the fide, takes care to pull down the covering.
Another Slave carries at the end o f a long flick a kind o f Target o f Ofier, cover­
ed over with fome gentile fluff, to preferve the perfon that is in the Palianquin
from the heat o f the Sun, when he turns and lies upon ftis face. The two ends o f
the Bambouc are faftned on both fides to the body o f the Palianquin between tw o
flicks join’d together like a S a ltir or St. Andrew s-crojs, every one o f thofe tw o
flicks being five or fix foot long. There are fome o f thefe Bambouc s that coft
two-hundred C ro w n s; I my fe lf have paid an hundred and twenty. Three men
for the molt part apply themfelves to each o f thefe tw o ends to carry the P a l-
lanquin upon their fhoulders; fome on the right,and fome-on the left,and they go
Iwifter than our Sedan-men, and with a much more eafy pace, as being that •which
va t>they practice from their youth. You give to every one for all things not above
four Roupies a Month ; but it ftands you in above five i f the journey be long, and
exceed fixty days labour. _ . . •
W hether it be in Coach, or Palianquin , he that will travel honourably m the
> In d ies , muft take along with him twenty or thirty armed men, with Bows and
J A rrow s fome, others with M ufquets; and they have the fame, rate with thofe
that carry the Palianquin. Sometimes for more magnificence they carry a Ban­
ner, as, the EngUJh and H ollanders do, for the honour o f their Companies.
Thefe Souldiers are not only for fhew, but they watch for your defence, keeping
Centinels, and relieving one another, and are very ftudious to give content. ^For
you muft know; that in the Towns where you take them .into fervice, they have
a Chieftain, that is refponfible for their fidelity, who for his good word has two
Roupies a-piece o f every one," ®
 In the great Villages there is generally a Mahometan that commands, o f whom
you may buy Mutton, Pullets, or Pidgeons. But where there live none but B a­
nians, there is nothing but Flower, Rice, Herbs and Milk-meats to be had.
The great heats in In dia enforcing the Travellers, that are not accuftomed to
them, to travel b y night, and reft in the day-tim e; when they come into any
fortified Towns, they muft be gone before Sun-fet, i f they intend to travel that
night. For night coming on, and the Gates being fhut, the Commander o f fb t
place, who is to anfwer for all the Robberies that are committed within his Ju -
rifdi&ion, will let no perfon ftir forth, telling them that it is the King’s order, to
which he muft be obedient. When I came to any o f thofe Towns, I bought my
Provifions, and went out again in good time, and ftaid in the Field under fome
Tree, in the frefh air, till it was time to fet forward.
They meafure the diftances o f places in In dia by Gw,and Cofies. A Gos is about
four o f our common leagues, and a Cofie one league. It is now time to travel
from Surat for A r r a , and la m b at, and to obferve what is molt remarkable upon
the Road.

C H A P . IV.
The Road from S u ra t to A gra, through B ram p ou r and Sercnge.

I Am no lels well acquainted with all the principal Roads that lead to the chief
Cities o f India, than thole o f Turkey and Pcrfia: for in fix times that I have
travell’d from P a ris to Ifpahan , I have gone twice for one from Ifpahan to Agra,
and many other places o f the Great Mogul’s Empire. But it would be tirefome to
the Reader to carry hirn more than once the lame w ay, on purpofe to mafeb a
relation o f every particular journey,and the accidents that accompany them : And
therefore it will fuffice to give an exaft defcription o f the Roads, without parti­
cularizing the diftind times that I went.
There are but two Roads from Surat to A g ra , one through Brampour and S t­
range, the other through Am adabat. The firit lhall be the Subjedt o f this Chap­
ter
From Surat to Barnoly, coftes r4
Barnoly is a great Borough-Town, where you are to ford a great River ; and
this firft days journey you crols a mixt Countrey, part Wood, part through Fields
o f Wheat and Rice.
From Barnoly to Bahor, coftes. to
Bahor is alfo a large Village upon a Lake, about a league in compafs. Upon
the fide whereof is to be feen a good fubftantial Fortrefs; though there be no
ufe made o f it. Three quarters o f a league on this fide the Village you ford a
fmall River, though not without great difficulty, by reafon o f the Rocks and
Stones that hazard the over-turning o f the Coach; This lecond days-journey
you travel almoft altogether through Woods.
From Balor to K erkpa, or as it is call’d at this day, C arvanferade la Begum ,
coftes- ’ . . ?
This Carvanfera or Inn is very large and commodious ; being built out o f ch a ­
rity by Begum-faheb the Daughter o f Cba-jehan. For formerly the journey from-
B alor to N avapoura was too g re a t: And this place being upon the F ro n tiers'of
thofe Raja’s that lometimes will not acknowledg the Great M ogul, whole Vaflfals
they are, there was no Caravan that paft by which was not abuled ; befides that
it is a wooddy-Countrey. Between Carvanfera and N avapoura you ford a Ri­
ver ; as alfo another very neer to N avapou ra .
From Kerkoa to N avapoura, coftes. _ 7$
N avapoura is a great Town full o f W eave rs; but Rice is the greateft Com­
modity o f that place. There runs a R iver through the Countrey, which makes
it very fruitful, and waters the Rice, that requires moifture. All the Rice which
grows in this Gountrey has one peculiar quality, that makes it more particularly
 efteem’d. The grain o f it is Jefs by one half, than the grain o f the common
. Rice 5 and when it is boil’d, no fnow is whiter ; but befides all that, it fmells o f
Musk 5 and all the Grandees o f the Indians eat no other. When they would
make an acceptable Prefent to any one in Perfia , they lend him a lack o f this
Rice. This R ive r which paffes by ICerhoa and thofe other places I have men­
tion’d, empties it le lf into the R iver o f Surat,
' From N a va po u ra to N afarbar , coftes. 9
From N a fa rb a r to Dol-medan , coftes. 74
From D ol-m edan to Senquera, coftes. 7
From Senquera to Tallener, coftes. IO
A t T allener you are to pafs the River, which runs to Barocbe $ where it is very
large, and empties it le lf into the G o lf o f Cambaj/a,
From Tallener to Cbottpre, coftes. 1J
From Coupre to Senquelis, coftes. 13
From Senquelis to N a b ir , coftes. 10
From N a b ir to Badelpoura , coftes. . 9
A t Badelpoura it is, where the loaded Waggons pay the duties o f Brampour ;
but the Waggons that carry nothing but Paffengers, pay nothing.
From Badelpoura to Brampour, coftes _ f
Bram pour is a great C ity, very much ruin’d, the Houfes being for the molt
part thatch’d with ftraw. There is alfo a great Caftle in the midft o f the C ity,
where the Governour lies ; the Government o f this Province is a very confidera-
ble command ; and is only conferred upon the Son or Unckle o f the King,.^ And
Attreng-z.eb, the prelent King, was a long time Governour o f this Province ill the
Reign o f his Father. But fince they came to underftand the ftrength o f the Pro­
vince o f Bengala , which formerly bore the Title o f a Kingdom, that Province is
now the molt confiderable in all the Adogubs Countrey. There is a great Trade
in this C ity, and as well in Bram pore, as over all the Province, there is made a
prodigious quantity o f Calicuts very clear and white, which are tranfported into
P erfia , Turkey and M ufeovia, Poland, A ra b ia , to Grand C airo, and other p aces.
There are fome which are painted with leveral colours, with flowers, o f which
the Women make Veils and S ca rfs; the fame Calicuts ferve lor Coverlets o f
Beds and for Handkerchiefs. There is another fort o f Linnen which they never
dve, with a ftripe or two o f Gold or Silver quite through the piece, ana at eac i
end from the bredth o f one inch to tw elve or fifteen, in fome more, in fome lets,
they fix a tiffu e o f Gold, Silver, and S ilk , intermix’d with Flowers, w hereof
there is no wrong-fide, both fides being as fair the one as the other. I f the.e
pieces, which they carry into Poland, where they have a vaft utterance, want at
each end three or four inches at the leaft o f Gold or Silver ; or i f that Gold or
Silver become tarnilh’d in being carried by Sea from Surap to Ormus and from
Trebitutn to M an gala, or any other parts upon the Black-Sea, the Merchant fhall
have much ado to put them off without great lofs.He muft take care that his goods
be packt up in good Bales, that no w et may get in ; which for fo long a Voyage
requires great care and trouble. Some o f thefe Linnens are made purpofely for
Swathbands or Shafhes, and thofe pieces are call’d O m it: They contain from
i c to 2o'E lls j and coft from an hunderd to an hunderd and fifty Rojpi
not beine under ten or tw elve ells. Thofe that are not above two ells long are worn
b y the Ladies o f Quality for Veils and Scarfs, o f which there is a vaftqtiantny^en-
ded in Per f a and Turkey, They make at Bram pouralfo other forts ofCotton-U nn ,
n & v n d e e d there is no Province in all the Indies which more abounds m C o?to^
When you leave the C ity o f Brampoure, you muft pafs
that which I have mention’d already. There is no Bridge, and therefore
^w ater is low you ford i t « when the ruins f2.ll> there urc Bouts u s, • *
T From S t o S Z f d r it is 1 3 * Coftes , and thefe Coftes are very fhort m the
In d ie s ; for you may. travel one o f them in a Coach r a id s than an hour
I remember a ftrange tumult at Brampoure, in the yea V . Th
turned from Agra to Surat 5 the caufe w hereof was thus, m fhort ;
’ Governour o f the Province, who was the King's ^ ^ . ^ h ^ j L ^ r y g o td
had amone his Pages a young Boy that was very beautiful, and of a t e n g
Fam ily, who had a Brother in the City that liv ’d as a Dervteh $ and for ^
 32 Travels in I n d i a ., PartlL
---------- -------- — -------— --------- — — ----------------------------------------— _______ _____ ;
all the Town had a very great veneration. One day the Governour, being alone in
his Chamber, did all that lay in his power, by vertue o f Gifts and Cardies,to have
had the ufe o f his Body ; but the Boy detefting his abominable purpofe, made his
efcape from him,and came and told his Brother. The D ervich,without deliberating
what Councel he had to give his younger Brother, gave him a Sword, fuch a
one as he might eafily hide under his Garm ent; and told him , that i f the
Governour urg’d him any more, that he fhould make a Ihew o f complying
with him, but that when he went about to do the fa d , he fhould be fure to
run him into the Guts. The Governour, who knew nothing o f what the Page
had reveal’d to his Brother, ceas’d not every day to court him to ccnfent to
his infamous-Juft; and being one day alone with him in a fmall Apartment o f
a Banquetting-Houfe, at the lower end o f his Garden, he lent for his Page to
fail him, and to keep off the Flies, after the fafhion o f the Country ; for it was
about noon, when every one goes to fleep. Then did the Governour begin
again to prefs the young P a g e ; and finding that he made no refiftance, he
thought he fhould fuddenly accomplifh his defign. But the Page feeing him
ready to commit the a d , ftab’d him three times into the Belly, before he
could open his .mouth to cry out for help. That done, the Page went out
o f the Palace, without any difturbance In his countenance; fo that the Guards
believ’d that the Governour had fent him out upon fome errand. The D er-
, vich underftanding by his Brother what had pafs’d, to lave him from the fury
o f the people, and to diteover the Infamy o f the Governour, caus’d the reft o f
the D ervichs his Companions, to take the Banners o f M ahom et, that w ere
planted round the M o fqu ee ; and at the fame time with loud cries encourag’d
all the reft o f the D ervichs, Faqu irs, and others that were good M ahom etans,
to follow him. In lefs than an hours time he had got together an infinite
multitude o f the Rabble, and the D ervich marching at the head o f them, they
Blade dired ly to the Palace, crying out with all their might, L et us dye fo r
Mahomet, or let Us have that infamous perfon deliver’d up into our hands, to the
end the Dogs may eat him after his death, not being worthy to be enterr'd among the
M ujfelm en. The Guard o f the Palace was not in a condition to refift fo great
a Multitude, fo that they muft have been forced to have yeilded to their fury3
had not the Deroga o f the Town, and fome five or fix L o rd s, found a w ay
to make themfelves to be heard, and to appeafe them, by repretenting to them,
that they ought to have fome refpeft to the Nephew o f the K in g ; b y
that means obliging them to retire. That night the Body o f the Governour
was lent to -Agra, with- his H a ra m ; and Cha-jehan, who then reign’d, being
inform’d o f the accident, was not much troubl’d, becaufe he is Heir to all the
goods o f his Subjects ; and at the fame time he bellow’d upon the Page a
fmall Government in the Province o f Bengali.
From Brampour to Piombi-fera, coftes y
Before w e go any farther, you muft take notice, that where-ever you meet
with the word Sera, it fignifies a great Enclofure o f Walls and Hedges, within
which are about fifty or fixty Huts, cover’d over with Straw. There are fome
men and women that there put to fale Flow er,. Rice, Butter, and Herbs, and
make it their bufinefs to bake Bread and boil Rice. I f there be any M ahu-
metan in that place, he will go to the City, and buy a little piece o f M u t­
ton, or a F o w l; and thofe that’ fell Victuals to the Travellers, always cleanfe
the Hut which they take up, and put into it a little Bed with girths, to lay
a Mattrefs er Quilt upon, which the Travellers carry along w ith them, c
From Piombi-fera to Pander, coftes 3
From'- Pander to Balki-fera, coftes 6
From Balki-fera to Nevilki-fera, coftes S
From JVevilki-fera to Confemba, coftes S
From Confemba to Chenipore, coftes 3
From Chenipore to Charava, coftes &
From Charava to Bich-ola, coftes ®
From Bich-ola to Andy, coftes 4
A t Andy you muft pafs a River that falls into Ganges, between Banarou and
Patnat ' .
From
 From Audi to Onquenas, coftes ^
From Onquenas to Tiquery, coftes y
From Tiquery to Tool-meden, coftes ^
From Tool-meden to N o va -fera , coftesi ^
From N o va -fera to Ichavom , coftes 4
' From Ich avou r to Signor, coftes y
From Signor to Chekaiponr, coftes r. 3
From Chekaipour to D our-aj, coftes ° 3
From D our-ay to A fer-k aira , coftes 3
From A fe r-k a ira to Telor, coftes 3
F ro m Telor to San-kaira, Coftes ,3
From San-kaira to Seronge, coftes iz
Seronge is a great City, the moft part o f the Inhabitants w hereof are Banian
Merchants, and Handicraft-trades-men from Father to Son, which is the reafon
that there are in this City feveral Houfes o f Stone and Brick. There is alfo a
great Trade for all forts o f painted Calicuts, which are called Chites, which is the
cloathing o f all the mean*er fort o f people both in Perfia and Turkey : O f which
In other Countreys alfo they make ufej for Coverlets for Beds, and Table-napkins.
T hey make the fame fort o f Calicuts in other Countreys as well as at Serongey
but the colours are not fo liv e ly ; befides, that they wear out with often wafh-
ing. Whereas thofe that are made at Seronge, the more you wafh them, the
fairer the colours fhew. There runs a R iver by the C ity, the water w hereof has
that vertue, that it gives that beauty and livelinefs to the colours. And all the
While the rains fall, the Workmen will make thefe prints upon their Cottons, ac­
cording to the Patterns which the Forreign Merchants give th em ; for when the
waters are ceas’d, the water is the th icker; and the oftener they dip their Cali­
cuts, the better the colours hold.
There is alfo made at Seronge another fort o f Calicut, which is fo fine, that when
a man puts it on, his skin fhall appear through it, as i f he were naked. The Mer­
chants are not permitted to tranfport it. For the Governour fends it all to the Se­
raglio o f the Great M ogul, and to the principal Lords o f the Court. O f this,
the Sultaneffes, and great Noblemen’s Wives make them Shifts and Garments in
hot-weather : And the King and the Lords take great pleafure to behold them in
thofe Shifts, and to fee them Dance with nothing elfe upon their Bodies.
From Brampore to Seronge is an hundred and one coftes, which are longer than
thofe from Surat to Brampore ; for the Coach is a full hour, and fometimes five
quarters, going one o f thefe coftes. In thefe hundred leagues o f the Countrey
you travel whole days journeys along by moft fertil Fields o f Corn and Rice, be­
ing lovely Champaign, where you meet with very little Wood ; and from Seronge.
to A g ra , the Countrey is much o f the fame nature: And becaufe the Villages
lye thick together, your journey is the more pleafantj befides, that you may reft
when you pleafe.
From Seronge to M a d a lk j-fera , coftes. 6
From M a d a lk i-fera to Poulki-fera, coftes. ^
From PoulkJ-fera to K a fa rik i-fera , Coftes. 3
From, K aJartkJ-fera to Chadolki-fera, coftes. **
From Chadolki-fera to Gallabas, coftes. &
Callabas is a great Town, which was formerly the Refidence o f a R a ja , who
"paVA Tribute to the G reat M ogul, But when Orang-z.eb came to the Crown, he
not only cut off his, but a great number o f the heads o f his Sub jefts, There are
tw o Tow ers near the Town, upon the high-wav, and round about the Towers are
fpveral holes, like windows; and in every hole, two foot diftant one from ano­
ther, there is fix’d a man’s head. In m y laft Travels in the year 1 665, it had not-
tfeen long lince that Execution had been done; for then all the Heads were whole,
^nd caus’d a very ill fmell.
■ A From C allabas to A km ate , coftes *
From A km a te to Collafar, coftes • > 9
Collafar is a little Town, all the Inhabitants w h ereof are Idolaters. As I paft
through it upon m y laft Travels, there were brought to it eight Pieces o f Ar­
tillery, the one carrying 48 pound-Bullet, the reft 36. Every Piece was drawn,
* F by
____________________________■ , • ; ____________________________

34 ^ VK' KD1A- Part II.

by 24 Yoke o f Gxenj^ A v ef^ tro ijg Elephant follow’d the Artillery, and when
they came to any ba’f-w a y , w h j^ t le Qxen were at a ftand, they brought up the
Elephant, who t e s t ’d the CannoaJ|rvrard with his Trunk. Without the Town,
all along the high-way, thete grows a vaft number o f great Trees, which they
call M an gues ; and in many places neer the Trees are to be feen little Pagods,
w ith every one an Idol at the dgor. The Elephant palling by one o f the Pagod.,
before which I was lodg’d, at the door whereof there flood three Idols about five
foot h igh ; fo Coon as he came near one, he took it up in his trunk, and broke it in
tw o pieces $ the next he took, he threw it up fo high, and fo far, that he broke
jt in four pieces; and carried away the head o f the third along with him. Some
thought that the Governour o f the Elephant had taught him what to do, and made
figns to him, which however I did not obferve; neverthelefs the Banians were
very much offended, though they durft not fay any thing ; for there was a Guard
o f above two thouland men that convoy’d the Artillery, all Souldiers o f the
King, and Mahometans, befides Franguis , or Franks, Englijh. and Hollanders that
were Cannoneers. The King fent this Artillery to his Army in D ecan,being at Wars
with the R aja S eva -g i, who the year before had plunder’d S u ra t ; o f whom I
(hall have occafion to fpeak in another place.
From Collafar to Sanfele, coftes 6
From Sanfele to Dongry, coftes 4
From Dongry to Gate, coftes 3
Gate is a ftrait paflage o f the Mountains, a quarter o f a league in length, the
defeent w hereof leads from Surat to A g ra . At the entry thereof you lee the
ruins o f two or three Caftles, and the Road is fo narrow, that two Waggons can
hardly go a breaft. They that come from the South to go to A g ra , as from Su ­
ra t, Goa, Fifapore, Golconda, M ajlipatan, and other places, cannot avoid thefe
ftreights, there being no other Road but this, efpecialiy i f you take the Road
from A m adabat. Formerly there was a Gate at each end o f the ftreight, and
at that end which is next to A g ra , there are five or fix Shops o f Banians, that
fell Flow er, Butter, Rice, Herbs and Pulfe. In my laft Travels I ftaid at one o f
theie Shops, to tarry for the Coaches and Waggons, all the Paflengers alighting
at the foot o f the Streights. N ot far off there is a great Magazin full o f Packs
o f Rice and Corn ; and behind every fack lay a Serpent thirteen or fourteen foot
long, and proportionable in bignefs. A Woman that went to fetch Corn out o f
one°of thofe Packs, was bitten by one o f thofe Serpents, and perceiving her Pelf
wounded, ran out o f the Magazin, crying out Ram , Ram , that is, O God, O God j
whereupon feveral Banians, men and women came running to her relief, and
bound her arm very hard above the wound, thinking to flop the venom from run­
ning any higher. But all in vain, for immediately her face fwell’d, and turn’d black,
and Ihe dy’d in lefs than an hour. The R agipm s,who are the belt Souldiers among
the Indians, and are all Idolaters, came in juft as the woman was expiring, and
about four o f them entring with their Skains, and Half-pikes in their hands into
the Magazin, kill’d the Serpent. The people o f the Village took and threw it
without the Town, and immediately there came a great number o f Birds o f prey,
which lighting upon the Carrion, devour’d it in lels than an hours time. The Pa­
rents o f the woman took her body, carri’d it to the River, walh’d it, and then
burnt it. I was forc’d to flay two days at that place, becaufe there was a River
to pafs, which inftead o f falling, fwell’d at that time, by reafon o f the rains that
fell for three or four days togeth er: So that I was conftrain’d to go h alf a lc?'A~ <
low er before I could crols it. T hey always endeavour’d to ford this R iver 5 for
otherwife they muft be compell’d to unload the Waggon into the B o ats; and alio
to carry the Goods in their arms for above half a league, which is worfe way
than can be imagin’d. The people get their livings by the Paflengers, from whOj u
they extort as much as they can, there being none but they that know the way^;
Otherwife it would be an ealy thing to make a Bridg, there being no want either
o f Wood or Stone near at hand. For the paflage is nothing but thorough Rocks,
that lie between the Mountain and th e R iv e r ; fb that the waters when they
fwell, overflow all the Road, in-fo-much that no-body can pafs it, but they
who are v e ry well acquainted with it.
From
 From Gate to N a d er, coftes ^
N ader is a great C ity upon the defcent o f a Mountain, a f , the top whereof is
a kind o f a F o rtrefs; all the Mountain being encompaft with walls, The greateft
part o f the Houfes, as in all other Cities o f In d ia, are thatch’d with ftmw, one
Story high ; but the Rich-men’s Houfes, are two Stories, and terrafs’d. Round
' -jbout the C ity are feveral great Ponds to be feen, which were formerly encom­
paft with hewn-ftone, but now are not at all look’d a fte r; ye t there are very, fair
Monuments about them. The fame R iver which we paft the day before and which
werepafs four or five Cofie.s on this fide N ader, encompafles three parts o f the
City and Mountain, like a Peninfula, and after a long winding-courfe which it takes
falls at length into Ganges. At N a d er they make a great quantity o f quilted-
Coverlets, fome white, others embroidered with Flowers o f Gold, Silk and Satin.
From N a der to B arqui-feta, coftes ^
From Barqui-fera to T rie , coftes 3
From Trie to Goualeof, coftes 6
Goualeor is a great City ill-built; like all the reft, after the manner o f the In­
dians ; it is built all along the fide o f a Mountain that lies upon the Weft-fide o f
i t ; and which at the top is encompaft with Walls and Towers. There are in this
Enclofure feveral Ponds made by the rains; and what they low there is fufficient
to keep the Garrifon : For which reafon it is efteem’d one o f the beft in the In ­
dies. Upon the defcent o f the Hill, which looks towards the North-eaft, Cha-
' jehan built an Houfe o f Pleafure ; from whence there is a Prolpeft over all the
City, and indeed it may ferve for a Garrifon. Below the Houfe are to be feen fe­
veral Idols cut out o f the Rock, reprefenting the fhapes o f their G o d s: And
among the reft, there is one o f an extraordinary heighth.
Since the Mahometan Kings became Mafters o f this Countrey, this Fortrefs of.
Goualeor is the place where they fecure Princes and great Noblemen. Cha-jehan
coming to the Empire by foul-play, caus’d all the Princ^ and Lords whom he
miftrufted, to be feiz’d one after another, and lent them to the Fortrefs o f Goua­
leor ; but he fufter'-d them all to live, and enjoy their Eftates. A u ren g-w b his Son
afts quite otherwife : For when he fends any great Lord to this place, at the end
o f nine or ten days he orders him to be poifon’d ; and this he does that the peo­
ple may not exclaim againft him for a bloody Prince. So foon as he had in his
clutches Prince M orat-Bakche his yonngeft Brother, whom he engaged to take
Arms againft his Father Cha-jehan ; and who being Governour o f the Province
o f Gutterat, took upon him the Title o f King, he lent him to this Fortrefs, where
hedy'd. They have made him a moft magnificent Monument in the City in a
M ofquee, which they built on purpofe, with a great Piaz.z.a before it all fur-
rounded with Vaults and Shops over them. For it is the cuftom o f the Indians,
when they rear any. publick Building,, to make a great Piaz.z.a before it, where
they keep their Markets, with a Foundation for the Poor, to whom they give
Alms, every day, as being to pray to God for him that rais’d the Fabrick.
Five Cojl’s from Goualeor, you ford a R iver which is call'd Lantke.
From Goualeor to P aterki-fera, coftes 3
From P aterkj-fera to .Q uariqui-fera, coftes , . 10
There is a Bridg at Paterkj-fera, eonfifting o f fix wide A rches; and the R iver
you go over is call’d Jshiarinado,
From 6>uariki-fera to Dolpoura , coftes 6
wi At Dolpoura there is a great R ive r which is call’d Ohammelnadi, to which there
belongs a F erry-B oat: The R iver it fe lf falls into the Gemena between A g ra and
H alabas.
From Dolpoura to M in afqui-fera , coftes 6
V A t M in a fyu T fera there is a R iver, which is call’d fagounadi. Y ou pafs it over
a ; very long Bridg, built o f Stone, the name whereof is jaoulcapoui
1 From M in afqu i-fera to this Bridg, coftes 8
1 N o t far from this Bridg it is, that they view the Merchants Goods, that when
/ they come to A g ra they may not be deceiv’d o f their duties. But more parti­
cularly to fee whether among the Casks o f Fruits pickl’d in Vinegar, in pots o f
Glafs, there be no flasks o f Wine.
 From the Bridg jaoulcapotil to -Agra, coftes .
So that from Seronge to A gra it is an hundred and fix Coftes, which are ordinary
leagues ; and from Surat to A gra, 339.

: • ' * 1 , ' t V ; ■ ; v : ' ' ' <

c h a p . y.

The Road, from Surat to A g ra through A m a d a b a t.

Rom Surat to Earoche, coftes •
F All the Countrey between thefe two Cities is full o f Corn, Rice, Millet, and
Sugar-Canes. Before you enter into Earoche, you muft Ferry over the River
22

which runs to Cambaya, and falls into the G o lf that carries the lame name.
Earoche is a great C ity, to which there belongs a Fortrefs, o f which there is
no ufe made at this time. But the City has been always very famous, by reafon
o f the River, which has a particular quality to whiten their Cottons •, which are
brought thither from all parts o f the Great M ogul’s Territories, where they have
not that convenience. In this place are made a great quantity o f Baffa’s, or long
and large pieces o f Cotton. Thefe-Cottons are very fair, and clofe woven j and
the price o f thefe pieces is from four to an hundred Roupies. You muft pay
Cuftom at Earoche for all Goods that are brought in and carri’d out. The E n g-
UJlo have a very fair Houfe in the C ity ; and I remember once, that coming thi­
ther one day in my return from Surat to A g ra with the Prefident o f the E n glifh,
prefently the Mountebanks came about him, and ask’d him i f he would fee any
o f their tricks. The firft thing they did was to light a great fire, and to heat cer­
tain Iron-chains red-ho% and wind them about their bodies, making as i f they felt
a great deal o f pain, but in truth receiving no harm at all. Then they thruft a
pi|ce o f a ftick into the ground, and ask’d the Company what.Fruit they would
ha% . One fold them, he would have Mengues; then one o f the Mountebanks
hiding him felf in the middle o f a Sheet, ftoopt to the ground five or fix times
one after another. I was fo curious to go up ftairs, and look out o f a window, to
fee i f I could fpy what the Mountebank did ; and perceived, that after he had
cut him felf under the armpits with a Razor, he rubb’d the ftick with his Blood.
A fter the two firft times that he rais’d himfelf. the ftick feem’d to the very eye to
grow. The third time there fprung out branches with young buds. The fourth
time the Tree was covered with leaves 5 and the fift time it bore flowers. The
Prefident o f the Englijh had then his Minifter with him, having brought him from
A m adabat to Chriften the Commander o f the H ollanders Child, to which he had
promifed to be Godfather. T h e Englijh Minifter protefted that he could not give
his confent that any Chriftian fhould be a fpe&ator o f fuch delufions. So that as
foon as he faw that thofe Mountebanks had o f a dry-ftick, in lefs than half an
hour, made a Tree four or five foot high, that bare leaves and flowers as in the
Spring-time; he went about to break it, protefting he would not give the Com ­
munion to any perfon that fhould ftay any longer to fee thofe things. Thereupon
the Prefident was forc’d to difmifs the Mountebanks, who wander about the
Countrey with their Wives and Children juft like Gipfies 5 and having given
them to the value o f ten or tw elve Crowns, they went aw ay very well cpp- .
tented. ^
They that are curious to fee Camhaya, never go out o f their w ay above
five or fix Coftes, or thereabout. For when you are at E aroche , inftead o f
going to Eroudra, you may go directly forward to Camhaya, from thence a '
terwards to Amadabat. But whether it be for bufinefs, or out o f curiofityy
the latter Road is never to be taken 5 not only becaufe it is the longeft wajf.
but becaufe o f the danger in c-roffing the mouth o f the Golf. .
Camhaya is a great City at the bottom o f the G o lf that bears its hjfim. .
Here- it is that they fhape thofe fair A g a ts, that come from the Indies, into
Cups, Hafts o f Knives, Beads, and other forts o f Workmanfhip. In the parts (
adjacent to the C it y , they alfo make Indigo o f the fame’ nature o f that o f
S a r-
 Sarquefs ; and it was famous for traffick at the time when the Portuguefes flou-
rifh’d in In d ia . There are to be ften at this day, in the Quarter next the .
Sea, very fair Ho L ifts , which they had built, with very rich Furniture, after
the Portugal manner ; but now they are uninhabited, and fall to decay every day
more and more. There were then fuch good Orders oblerv’d in Cambaya,
\ p m two hours after day was fhut in, every Street was lockt up with two
Gates, which are ftill to be feen 5 and ftill they continue to lock up the prin­
cipal Streets, as alfo the Streets that lead into the Town. One o f the chief
reafons w h y the Town has loft the greateft part o f its Trade is, becaule that
form erly the Sea run cloft up to Cambaya, fb that little Vefiels eafily anchor’d
b y i t ; but afterwards the Sea daily loft in that part, fo that a fmall Ship could
not ride within five or fix Leagues o f the City.
There are a great number o f Peacocks in the Indies , efpecially in the Ter­
ritories o f Baroche, Cambaya , and Broudra. The flefh o f the young ones is
w hite and well-tafted, like ours, and you fhall fee vaft numbers o f them all
day in the Fields, for at night they rooft upon the Trees. ’Tis a hard m at­
ter to come near them in the day, for as foon as they perceive themfelves
hunted, they fly away as fwift as a Partridg among the Bufhes; fo that it is
impoffible for any man to follow them without tearing his Cloaths all to rags ;
therefore are they only to be taken in the night time, to which purpole they
have this invention.' They approach the Tree with a kind o f a Bai i t upon
which there is a Peacock painted to the life on both fidesj at the top o, the
flick are fatten’d two lighted Candles, the brightnefs w hereof amazing the Pea­
cock, caufes him to ftretch out his Neck toward the end o f the flick, to which
there is a Rope ty ’d with a Aiding knot, which he that holds the Banner draws,
when he finds that the Peacock has put his Neck into it.- But you mu.: have
a care o f killing either Bird, or any other Animal in the Territories, of which
the idolatrous R a ja s are Mailers ; which it is nothing dangerous to do in theft
parts o f the Indies, where the Governours are M ahom etans, and give liberty
to Fowl or Hunt. It happen’d one time that a rich Perjian Merchant, paf-
fing through the Territories o f the R a ja o f D a n tiva r, fhot a Peacock upon the
road, and kill’d it, either out o f rafhnefs, or ignorance o f the Culloms of the
Country. The Ban-mans incens’d at the attem pt, which is accounted among
them, a moft abominable facriledg, ftiz’d upon the Merchant, and all his Mo­
ney to the value o f 300000. Roupies, and tying him to a Ir e e , whipt him in
fo terrible a manner for three days together, that the man dy d.
From Cambaya you go to a little Village diftant fome three Codes, where
there is a Pagod, to which all the Indian Curtifans come t o , make their O f ­
ferings. This Pagod is full o f a great number o f naked Images, among the
reft, there is a large Figure o f one that ftems to reftmble A p o llo , with his
privy parts all uncover’d. When the old Curtifans have got together a good
fum o f Money in their youth, they buy young Slaves, whom they teach to
Daunce, and fing wanton Songs, and inftrudt in all the myfteries o f their in­
famous Art. And when theft young Girls are eleven or twelve years old,
their Miftrefles fend them to this Pagod, believing it will bring them good
fortune, to offer and fufrender up themfelves to this Idol. _ ,
From this Pagod to C hiidabad you have fix Coftes. This is one o f the faire
> Houfts o f the great with a wide Enclofure, wherein he has vaft G ar-
wlAdens, and large Ponds, with all the pleafures and curiofity w hereof the G e­
nius o f the Indians is capable.
From Chiidabad to A m adabad you have but five Coftes ; and fo I return to
Baroche, and the common Road.
\ From Baroche to Broudra, Coftes , _ at a T
J Broudra is a great C ity Handing in a fertil Soil, wherein there is a vaft Trade for
1 Calicuts. o
From Broudra to N eriade, coftes 1
v From JSJeriade to Am adabat, coftes _ 4 2,0
Am adabat is one o f the greateft Cities in In d ia ; and where there is a mighty
Trade for Silk-Stuffs, Hangings o f Gold and Silver, and others mix’d with Silk 5
fo f Saltpeter3 Sugary Ginger candid and raw j Tamarins3 M ir obclans, a n d jftt
 Indigo , which is made at a great Town, not far from Am adabat, called Sarquefs.
There was in that place a Paged, which the M aham etans have pull'd down, and
built a Mofquee in the place. Before you enter into,it, you muft crofs three large
Courts pav’d with Marble, and encompaft with Galleries ; nor muft you enter into
the third Court.till you have pull’d off your fhooes. The infide o f the M dfqnee
is adorn’d with -M ofaic-w ork, the greateft part whereof is o f A gats o f divert
colours, which they fetch from the Mountains o f Cambaya, not above two days
journey off. There are feveral Sepulchres o f the ancient Idolatrous Kings, that
look like little Chappels, o f M ofaic-work, built upon a Vaut that is under the Se­
pulchre. There runs a River from Am adabat toward the North-weft, which du­
ring the rainy-feafons that continue three or four Months together, is very wide
and rapid, and does much mifehief every year. It is fo with all the other Rivers
in In d ia ; and after the rains are fallen, you muft ftay fix weeks or two months
before you can ford A m adabat-River, where there is no Bridg. There are (
two or three Boats ; but they are o f no ufe, when the ftream is fo fw ift; fo that
you muft ftay till the waters are fall’n. But the people o f the Countrey will not
ftay fo long ; for to crols from one R iver to another, they only make ufe o f Goat­
skins,which they blow up and fill with wind, and then tye them between their fto-
macks and their bellies. Thus the poor men and women fwkn croft this River,
and when they would carry their children along with them, they put them in
certain round pots o f Earth, the mouth whereof is four-fingers wide, and drive
the Pots before them. This puts me in mind o f a Palfage, when I was at A m a­
dabat in the year 16 4 2 , which is too remarkable to be omitted.
A Countrey-man and a Countrey-woman one day paft the River as I have rela­
ted, and having a child about two years old, they put it into one o f thefe Pots, lo
that there was nothing but the head appear’d. Being about the middle o f the
R iver, they met with a little bank o f Sand, where there lay an huge Tree, which
the ftream had carri’d thither; whereupon the Father fhov’d the Pot toward that
part, to reft him felf a-while. When he came near the Tree, the trunk whereof
Jay fomewhat above the water, a Serpent leapt out from among the roots, into
the Pot where the Infant was. The Father and the Mother frighted at the acci­
dent, and having almoft loft their fenles, let the Pot go a-drift where the ftream
carri’d it, and lay almoft dead themfelves at the bottom o f the Tree. About two
leagues lower, a Banian and his Wife with a little Infant, were walking themfelves
in the River before they went to eat. They defery’d the Pot a-far-off, with the
h alf o f the Infant’s-head that appear’d above the hole. The Banian immediately
fwims to the relief o f the child, and having flopp’d the Pot, drives it to the (hoar..
The Mother follow’d by her own, comes prefently to take the other child put o f
the Pot, at what time the Serpent that had done no harm to the other child,,
fhoots out o f the Pot, and winding about hers, flings it, and infufes its venom in­
to the Infant, fo that it dy’d immediately. However, the accident, being fo ex­
traordinary, did not trouble thofe poor people j who rather believ’d it to have
happen’d by the fecret difpofal o f their Deity, who had taken from them one
child, to give them another for it, with which opinion they prefently comforted
themfelves. Some time after, the report o f this accident coming to the ears o f
the firft Countrey-man, he comes to the Banian to tell him how the mifchance
had happen’d, and to demand his child o f him ; the other Indian affirming that
the child was his, and that his God had fent it him, in the place o f that which
was dead. To be fhort, the bufineft made fo loud a noife, that it was at length,,
brought before the King, who order’d, that the child fhould be reftor’d to the
Father.
A t the fame time there happen’d another very pleafant accident in the fame
C ity o f Am adabat. The Wife o f a rich Merchant Banian , nam’d Saintidas , ne- Z
, ver having had a child, and manifefting her eager defire to have one, a fervant o f U
' the Houle took her a-fide one day, and told her, that if fhe would but eat that - '
which he would give her, {he {hould be w ith child. The woman defirous to know
what fhe was to eat, the fervant told her it was a little fifh, and that lhe fhould:, \
eat but three!or four. Now the Religion o f the Banians forbidding them to eat
any thing that has life, fhe could not refolve at firft to yield to his propofal; but
the ferva'nt having promifed her that he would fo order the matter, that fhe
fhould
 fhould not know whether it were fifh or no that (he eat, (he refolv’d to try his
receit, and went the next night to lie with her Husband, according to the in-
ftruddon which (he had received from the (ervant. Some time after, the woman
perceiving that Ihe was big, her Husband happen’d to die, and the kindred o f the
. , deceafed would have his Eftate. The Widow oppofed them, and told them that
It behov'd them to ftay, till they (aw whether the child (he went withal, would
live or no. H er kindred were furpriz’d to hear fuch news that they fo little ex­
pected, and tax’d her for one that either ly’d or jetted with them $ knowing that
the w om an , had liv’d fifteen or fixteen years with her Husband, yet never had
been w ith child. Seeing therefore that her kindred (till tormented her, (he went
and threw her fe lf at the Governour’s feet, to whom (he related all that had paftj
who thereupon order’d that the kindred fhould ftay till the woman was deliver’d.
Some days after (he had lain-in, the kindred o f the deceas’d Merchant, who
w ere perfons o f Credit, and* gap’d after fo fair an inheritance, affirm’d that the
child was not legitimate, and that (he had it not by her Husband. The Govern
nour, to underftand the truth o f the matter, calls for the Phyfitians; who con­
cluded, that the Infant fhould be earri’d to the Bath, (ayingj that if the Receit
which the Mother had made ufe of, were real, the fweat o f the child would
fmell o f fifh ; which was done accordingly, and the Experiment prov’d true.
Thereupon the Governour order’d that the child fhould have the Eftate, the M er­
chant being (o proud to be his F a th e r: But the Kindred, troubl’d that fuch a
fat M onel had efcap’d their mouths, appeal’d to the King. Upon their relation o f
the ftory, the King wrote to the Governour to fend him the Mother and the In­
fant, to the end the Experiment might be made in his prefence: which having
the fame fuccefs as before, the kindred furceas’d their claim, and the Eftate re­
main’d to the M other and the Infant.
I remember alfo another pleafant Story which was related to me at Amadabat,
w here I have been ten or tw elve times. A Merchant with whom I often dealt,
and who was very well belov’d by Cha-Eft-Kan, Governour o f the Province, and
the King’s Unckle, had the reputation never to have told a lye. Cha-Eft-Kan,
after the three years o f his Government were expir’d, according to the cuftom o f
the G reat Mogul, and that Aureng-z.eb, the King’s Son was come into his place,
retir’d to -Agra, where the Court then was. One day, difcourfing with the King,
he told him, that he had (een many rare things in the Governments, with which
his M ajefty had honour’d him, but that one thing above all the reft had aftomfh d
him, to have met with a Rich Merchant that had never told a lye, and yet he
was above threefcore and ten years o f age. The King furpriz d at a thing fo ex­
traordinary, fignified to Cha-Eft-Kanftvis defire to fee the perfon, and commanded
him to (end for him to Agra, which he did. The Old-man was very much
troubl’d, as well in regard o f the length o f the w ay, it being a journey o f or
or 30 days, as for that he was to make a Prefent to the King. In (hort, he pro­
vided one, efteem’d at forty-thoufand Roupics, to carry Betle in, enchasd w ith
Diamonds, Rubies, and Emraulds. Yfhen he had made his obeyfance to the King,
and given him his Prefent, the King ask’ d him only what was his name, to whom
he replied, that he was call’d the man that had never told a lye. Then the King
ask’d him who was his Father ? Sir, faid he, I cannot tell 5 his Majefty fatishd
w ith that anfwer, ftopt there, and unwilling to trouble him any farther, comman
ded an Elephant to be given him, which is a very great Honour, and ten-thoutand
vfv‘ou oies to bear his charges home. . , .
The Banians have a great Veneration for Apes, and there are fome which tney
breed up in their Pagods to w orftip . There are three or four Houfes vb A m **-,
ahat which they make ufe o f for Hofpitals for Cowes, Oxen, Apes, an
j i k o r maim’d B e ad s; and they carry all they can find thither to preferve tnem.
, This is aho v e ry remarkable, that every Tuefday and Friday, all the pes m
[places adjoyning to Am adabat, o f their own accord come to th<L Gity, ana ge
upon the tops o f their Houfes where they lye, during the exceffive heats And
therefore upon thofe days the people 'never f a i l t o f e t ready m then T er-
rafles, R ice, M illet, Sugar-Canes in their feaions, and other ftich-llike things-
i f the Apes did not find their provilion when they came, they would bre
‘Tiles w here-w ith the reft o f the Honfe is cover’d, and do a great deal o f g £ .
chief. And you muft here take notice alfo, that the Ape never eats any thing
which he does not very well like the fcent o f before-hand ; and before he fwal-
lows any-thing, he lays up his Magazin againft future hunger 3 filling his ba<*s
with provifion, which he keeps till next day.
I have faid, that the Banians have a particular Veneration for the A p e 5 c r
which I will give you one Example, among many, that I could bring. Being one1
day at A m adabat, at the Houle belonging to the Hollanders, a young man o f that
Nation newly arriv'd to ferve in the Faftory . not knowing the cuftom o f the
Gountrey, and feeing a great Ape upon a Tree in the Court, would needs fhew a
piece o f a&ivity, or rather a trick o f youth, to kill the Ape with a final] Gun.
I was at Table then with the Datc/.-Commander 3 and we no fiooner heard the
blow, but we heard as foon a loud noife o f Banians, that wait upon the Holland-
Company, who came to complain bitterly o f him that had kill’d the Ape. They
would all have been gone 3 fo that the Comifiander had much ado, and made
many excufes before he could appeafe t-hem, and oblige them to ftay.
In the Neighbourhood about Am adabat, there are a great number o f Apes.
And this is obfervable, that where there are a great number o f thofe Ani­
mals, there are very few Crow's. For as foon as they have built their Nefts
and laid their Eggs,: the Apes get upon the Trees and throw their Eggs to
the Ground. One day returning from A g ra , and departing out o f A m ada-
bat with the E n glijh Prefident, who came hither about fome bufinels, and was
returning to S u ra t , we pals’d through a little Forreft o f Trees, call’d Alangues„
fome four or five Leagues from Am adabat 5 there we law a vaft number o f
great Monkeys, male and female, and many o f the females holding their young
©nes in their Arms. We had each o f us our Coach, and the Englijh Prefi­
dent caufing his to ftop, told me he had an excellent and very neat Harque-
bufs, that was prefented him by the Governour o f D am an , and knowing
I could aim w ell, he defir’d me to try it, at one o f thofe Apes. One o f m y
Servants, who was born in the Country, making me a fign not to venture,
I endeavoured to dilfwade the Prefident from his defign 5 but it was impof-
fib le; fo that I took the Harquebufs, and kill’d a female Monkey, who lay
ftretch’d out upon the Boughs, letting her little ones fall to the ground. But
it fell out as m y Servant had forewarn’d me. For immediately all the
Monkeys that w ere upon the Trees, to the number o f fixty, came down in
a great fury, to have leap’d into the Prefidents Coach, where they would
loon have ftrangled him, had we not prevented them by doling the Shutters,
and had we not had a great number o f Servants, that with much ado kept
them off. And though they came not to my Coach, yet I was very much
afraid o f my fe lf; for they purfued the Prefident’s Coach above a League, and
they were ftout lufty Monkeys.

From Am adabat to Panfer,. coftes rj

From Panfer to M afana , coftes
From M afana to COutpour, coftes iq
Chitponr is a very good C ity, fo called by reafon o f the great Trade For painted-
Calicuts, which are called Chites: Near which, lome four or five-hundred paces
toward the South, there runs a fmall River. Arriving at Chitponr in one o f my
Voyages, I pitch’d m y Tent under two or three Trees at the end o f a wide-place
neer the Town. A little while after I law four or five Lions appear, which w d e
brought to be tam’d ; which they told me took them up five or fix months^ and
their way to do it, is th is: They ty e the Lions at twelve paces diftance one from
another by the hinder-legs, with a R ope fatten’d to a great woodden- flake fet deep
in the ground,with another cord about the neck,which the Matter holds in his hany.
Thele Stakes are planted in the fame Line, -and in another Parallel they llretch ou; .
another Cord as long as the fpace,which the bodies o f the Lions lo dilpos’d o£ as i
have defcrib’d, take up. The two Cords which hold the Lion ty ’d by the two
binder-feet, give him liberty to fpring out as far as that long Cord j which is a
m irk to thole that ftand to provoke and incenle the Lions, by throwing ftones and
pieces o f wood at them, not to venture any farth er: The people run to fee the
fight,aud when the Lion, provok’d, gives a Ipring toward the Cord, theM aftcr
holds
 holds another in his hand, ty ’d about his neck, that pulls him back. Thus they
accuftom the Lion by degrees to be familiar with the people, and at m y coming
to Chiapour, I law this Divertifement without ftirring out o f my Coach.
The next day I had another, meeting with a knot o f F a q u irs, or M ahometan
D ervichs. I counted fifty-feven, among whom, he that was the Chief or Supe-
krior, had been Grand Efquire to C ha-jehan-guir, having left the Court, when
Sultan B ou laki, his youngeft Son, was ftrangl’d by Order o f C ha-jehan ; there
were four others, who next to the Superior, were ch ie f o f the Company, who
had been alfo great Lords in the fame C ha-jehan s Court. All the Cloaths thole
five D ervich s had, w ere only four ells o f Orange-colour-Calieut to hide what
modefty w ill have hid before and behind, and every one o f them a Tygers-skin
over th eir fhoulders ty’d together under their chins. T hey had led before them
eight fair Horfes faddl’d and bridl’d ; three w hereof had Bridles o f Gold, and
Saddles cover’d with Plates o f Gold, and the other five had Bridles o f Silver
cover’d with Plates o f Silver, and a Leopard’s-skin upon every one. The other
D ervich s had only a Cord for their G irdle, to which was fatten'd a piece o f Cali­
cut only to cover their private parts. Their hair was ty ’d in wreaths round about
their heads after the manner o f a Turbant. They were all well-arm ’d, the moft
part with Bows and A rrow s, feme w ith Muskets,x^nd others with Half-pikes,with
another fort o f weapon which w e have not in Europe ; that is to fay, a fharp piece
o f Iron like the fide o f a Platter without a bottom, which they wind eight or ten
times about their necks, and carry like a Calves Chaldron. They draw out thefe
Iron-Circles as they intend to make ufie o f th em ; and they will throw them with
fuch a force againft'a m an,thatthey fhall fly as fwift as an Arrow , and go very neer
to cut a man in tw o in the middle. They had every one,befides all this,an Hunting-
Horn, which they wind, making a prodigious nolle when they come to any place,
and when they go aw ay ; together with a Grater .or Rafp, being an Iron-Infiru-
m ent, made like a Trow el. This is an Inftrument which the Indians carry gene­
rally about them when they travel, to ferape and make clean the places where
th ey intend to reft ; and fome o f them, when they have ferap’d all the duft to­
gether into an heap, make ufe o f it inttead o f a Mattrefs or Pillow to lie eafily
upon. There w ere fome o f them that were arm’d with long T u cks; which they
had bought -either o f the E n g lijh or Portugals, Their Luggage confifted o f four
great Chefts full of. Eerfian and A ra b ia n Books, and fome Kitchen-houfholdftuff:
They had alfo ten or tw elve Oxen to carry their fick. When the D ervichs came
£0 the place where I lay with my Coach, having^about fifty perfons with me, as
w ell o f the people o f the Countrey, as o f m y own fervants; the C h ief or Su­
perior o f the Troop feeing me fo well-attended, enquird what A ga that was j
and defir’d me to let him have that place which I had taken up, as being the moft
convenient in all that place, for him and his Dervichs to lodg. When they told
me the quality o f the Chief, and the four Dervichs that attended him, I was w il­
ling to be civil, and to yield to their requ eft; and thereupon I left them the place
free After they had w ell-w ater’d the place, and laid the duft, they lighted tw o
fires as if it had been in the froft and fnow, for the five principal Dervichs, who,
fate and chaf’d them felves before and behind. That very evening, after they had
fupp'd the Governour o f the Town came to complement the principal D er­
vichs, and during their ftay, fent them R ice and other things, which they are ac-
cuftom’d to eat. When they come to anyplace, the Superior fends fome of his
C re w a begging into the Towns and Villages, and what Alms they get, is pre*
fently diftributed equally among th e m ; every one o f them taking care to boil
his own Rice. What is over and above they give to the Poor in the evening; lor
they referve nothing till next day.

J v o m Chit pour to Balampeur, coffes Is

' flprom Balampour to D antivar, coftes * 11
/ , 1 From D an tivar to Bargant, coftes , . T
Bargant is in the Territories o f a Raja, to whom you pay duties. In one o f
m v iournevs to Agra, patting through Bargant, I did not fee the Raja, but only
his Lieutenant, who was v ery civil to me, and made me a Prefent o f Rice, Butter
aid Fruit in feafon. T o make him amends, I gave him three Shafhes o f Gold
I—^
and Silk, four Handkerchiefs o f painted Linnen, and two Bottles, the one full o f
Aquavita, and the other full o f Spanijb-Wme. At my departure he ft nt a Con­
voy o f twenty Horfe four or five leagues along with me.
. One evening, being about to lodg upon the Frontiers o f the Territories o f the
R aja o f B argant, m y people came to 'me and told me, that if we took the Road
through Bargant, we fhould go neer to have all our throats cut, for that the Raja,
o f that place liv’d altogether upon Robbery. So that unlefs I hir’d an hunder’d
m ore o f the Countrey-people, there was no likelihood o f efcaping thofe Free­
booters. At firft I argu’d with them, and tax’d their Cowardice, but fearing to
pay for my rafhnefs afterwards, I ftnt them to hire fifty more, for three days
only,that we crofs’d the R aja’s Countrey : for which they ask’d me every one four
Roupies,which is as much as you give them for a whole Month. The next dav as I
was about to ftt forward, my Guard came and told me they would leave me,
and that they would not venture their lives, defiring me not to write to A gra to
their Captain, who was refponfible for them, that they had left me againft m y
will. Three o f m y fervants alfo did as they did, fo that I had no body left with
me, but a man that lead an H orft in his hand, my Coachman, and three other for-
vants, and fo I ftt forward under the protection o f God. About a league from
the place which I had left, I perceived fome part o f my Convoy following me.
Thereupon I ftopt my Coach to ftay for them, and when- they eame neer, I bid
them advance i f they intended to go along with-me. But feeing them fearful,
and unrefolv’d, I bid them go about their bufinefs, telling them I had no need o f
fuch Cowards as they were. About a league from thence I diftover’d upon the
brow o f an Hill about fifty Horft, four o f which came riding up to m e ; when I
perceived them, I alighted out o f my Coach, and having with me fome thirteen
Spit-fires, I gave to every one o f my men an Harquebufs. The Horft-men ap­
proaching, I kept m y Coach between them and me, and had my Gun ready cockt,
in cafe they fhould afiail me. But they made me a lign, that I fhould fear nothing j
only that the Prince was a Hunting, and had ftnt to know what Strangers paft
through his Territories: I made anfwer, that I was the lame Franguy that had
paft by five or fix weeks before. B y good luck, the very fame Lieutenant to
whom I had made the Prefent o f A q u a vit a and Spanijh-W ine, follow’d thofe
four Horfemen. And after he had teftifv’d how glad he was to fee me, he ask’d
me if I had any W in e; I told him I never traveli’d without th a t: For indeed the
E n glijh and H ollanders had prefented me with feveral Bottels at A g ra . So foon
as the Lieutenant was return’d to the R a ja , the R aja himfelf came to me, and
told me I was welcome j and bid me reft my fe lf in a fhady-place which he
pointed to, about a league and an h alf from the place where we were. In the
evening he came, and' we ftaid together two days to make merry j the R aja bring­
ing along with him certain Morrice-dancers, without which the Perjians and In ­
dians can never think themfelves heartily merry. At my departure the R aja lent
me 200 Horfe,to convoy me to the Frontiers o f his Territories, for three days to­
gether j for which I only gave them three or four pound o f Tobacco. When I
came to A m adabat, the people would hardly believe that I had had fo kind a re­
ception from a Prince, that was noted for abufing ftrangers that paft through his
Countrey.
From Bargant to Bim al, coftes If
From B im al to M odra , coftes iy
From M odra to Chalaour, coftes io
Chalaour is an ancient Town upon a Mountain, encompaft with Walls, asd very
difficult to come to. There is a Lake at the top o f the Mountain, and another
b e lo w ; between which and the foot o f the Mountain lies the Road to the
Town. (
From Chalaour to Cantap, coftes v 2
From Cantap to Setlana, coftes 'A>
From Setlana to Palavafeny, coftes -*4
From Palavafeny to Pipars, coftes 11
From P ipars to M ir da, coftes ^
From D a n tiva r to M ird a is three days journey, being a mountainous Gonntrey
that belongs t q R a ja s , or particular Princes that pay tribute to the Great Mogul.
 In recorapence w hereof the Great Mogul gives them Commands in his Armies-
by which they gain much more than they loofe by the tribute which they
pay 3
M ir da is a great C ity, but ill-built. When I came thither in one o f my Indian-
journeys, all the Inns were full o f Paffengers, in regard that Cha-jehans Aunt, the
V, '^ jfe of. Cha-Efl-Kan, was going that way to m arry her Daughter to Sultan
Sujah, the fecond Son o f Cha-jehan j I was forc’d to let up m y Tent upon a Bank,
with Trees on both fides : But I was not a little furpriz’d tw o hours afterward, to
fee fifteen or twenty Elephants loofe, that tore down the boughs as far as they
could reach, breaking off the huge Arms o f Trees, as i f they had been but fmall
faggot-fticks. This fpoil was done by the order o f the Begum, in revenge o f the
Affront which the Inhabitants o f M ir da had put upon her, who had not waited
on her, and made her a Prelent as they ought to have done.
From M irda to Baronda, coftes I2 ,
From Baronda to'Coetcbiel, coftes 28
From Coetchiel to Bandar-Sonnery, cofteS iq.
From Bandar-Sonnery to Ladona, coftes H 16
From Ladona to Cbafou, coftes - 12
From Chafou to N om li, coftes , 17
From Nouaii to Hindoo, coftes 19
From Hindoo to Baniana^ coftes . 10
Thele two laft places are two Towns, where, as in all the Countrey round
about, they make Indigo-Yhxt, which is rounds and as it is the belt o f all the In-
digo’s, fo is it double the price.
From Baniana to V'ettapour, coftes 14
Vettapour is an ancient Town where they make woojlen-Hangings.
From V'ettapour to Agra', coftes 12
From Surat to Agra is in all, coftes 41 y
I f you could divide your journeys equally into thirteen Coftes a-piece, you
might go to Surat in thirty-three days 5 but becaule you reft, and flay at fome
places, it is generally thirty-five or forty days journey.

CHAP. VI.
The Road from Ifpahan to Agra, through Candahar.

I Have made an exadt defcription o f fome part o f the Road', and brought
the Reader as far as Candahar; it remains, that I carry him from Candahar
to A g ra ; to which there are but two ways to go, either through Cabout, or
through M M tan. The latter w ay is the Ihorter by ten days journey. But
the Caravan never goes that w ay. For from Candahar to Multan you ^travel
almoft all the w ay through D efarts ; and fometimes you travel three dr four
days without meeting any water. So that the molt ordinary and beatert
Road, is through Caboul. N ow from Candahar to Cabout, is twenty-four days
journey ; from Caboul to Labor, tw en ty-tw o; from Labor to Dehly, or Ge-
hanabat, eighteen ; from Dehly to Agra, fix ; which with the fixty days jour­
ney from Ifpahan to Farat, and the twenty from Farat to Candahar, makes
in all from Ifpahan to Agra, an hundred and fifty days journey. But the
Merchants that are in hafte, take Horfes, three or four together in a company,
And ride the whole journey in fixty, dr fixty-five days at molt.
;/ Multan is a C ity where there is made a vaft quantity? o f Linnen CaJicuts,
/’' Which was all transported to 'Tuta, before the Sands had ftopd up the mouth
9 q f the R iv e r ; but fince that, it is carry’d all to Agra, and from Agra to Su­
rat as is the greateft part o f the Merchandize which is made at Labor. But
in regard carriage is fo dear, very few Merchants traffick either to Multan or
at Labor ; and many o f the Workmen have; alfo deferred thole places, fo that
)the Kings Revenues are v e ry much diminiibed in thole Provinces, Multan
r *Ga
 is the place whither all the Banians come, that trade into Perfia, ’where they
follow the fame Trade as the fern, and out-do them in Ufury. They have a
particular Law among them, which permits them to eat Fowl upon certain
days in the y e a r ; and not to have more than one Wife among two or three
Brothers, the eldeft whereof is accounted the Father o f the Children., This
C ity alfb breeds abundance o f Dancers, o f both Sexes, that Ipread themlelves ail ) ^
over Perjia.
I come now to the Road from Candahar to A g ra , through Caboul and Labor.
From Candahar to Charifafar, coftes io
From Charifafar to Zelate, coftes iz
From Zelate to Betazy, coftes 8
From Betazy to Mez.our, coftes 6
From Menoar to Carabat, coftes - ij
From Carabat' to Chakenicouz.e, coftes ij
From Candahar to C hakenicotine, a Frontier Town o f the Indies, is a Coup-
try under the command o f feveral Princes, that acknowledg the Perfian Em­
peror.
From Chakenicouz.e to Caboul, coftes 40
In all thefe forty Coftes. o f way, there are but three pitiful Villages j where
fometimes, though very rarely, you have Bread and Barley for your Horles
but the fureft way is to carry provifion along with you. In the Months o f
fu lj and A uguft, there blows a hot Wind in thole parts,, that takes away a
mans breath, and kills him upon the place ; being o f the lame nature with
thole Winds, o f which I have Ipoken in my Perfian Relations, that blow at
certain leafons near Babylon and M oujful.
Caboul is a large C ity, very well fortified 5 and is the place where thole
o f V sbeft come every year to fell their Horles. They reckon, that there are
bought and fold, every year, above fixty thoufand. They bring alfo out o f
P erjia , great numbers o f Sheep, and other Cattel 5 it being the general Con-
courfe o f Perfians,. Tartarians, and Indians. There is alfo Wine to be had.5
but Provifions go o ff at a very good rate.
Before I go any farther, I muft take notice o f one thing in particular, con­
cerning the people call’d Dugans, who inhabit from Candahar to Caboul, to­
ward the Mountains o f Batch, a fturdy fort o f people, and great Robbers In
the night-time. It is the cuftom o f the Indians to cleanle and fcrape their tongues
every morning with a crooked piece o f a root, which caules them to void a great
quantity o f Flcgm and Rhume, and provokes vomiting. N ow though thole
people that inhabit the Frontiers o f Perfia and In dia practice the lame thing j
neverthelefs they vomit very little in the morning, but when they come to eat,
as foon as thby have fwallowed two or three bits, their lungs begin to fwell, and
they are conftrain’d to go forth and v o m it; after which, they return again to
their Victuals with a very good appetite. Should they not do lo, they would
not live above thirty years j and befides, they would, be troubl’d with the
Droply.
From Caboul to Bariabe , coftes
From Bariabe to N im ela , coftes 17
From N im ela to A liboua, coftes
From Aliboua to Taka, coftes 17 .
From Taka to K iem ri, coftes 6
From K iem ri to Chaour, coftes 14
From Chaour to N ovechaar, coftes 14
From Novechaar to A te ft, coftes 19s
A te ft is a City fituated upon a point o f Land where two Rivers meet together*,
*Tis one o f the belt and ftrongeft Garrifons the Great M ogul h a s; into which
there is no ftranger permitted to enter without a PalTport from the King* Father ;
Roux the Jefuit and his Companion, going this way to Ifpahan, and not having
the King’s PalTport, were forc’d to return back to Labor , where they embark’d
upon the R iver for Scim di, from whence they paft .into Perfia,
From A te ft to Calapane, coftes 16
From Calapane to R oupate, coftes *6 a '
From i
 From Roupate to Toulapeca, coftes 16
From Toulapeca to K era ly , coftes i ej
From K era ly to Z era b a d , coftes • 16
From Z era b a d to Im iabad, coftes 18,
From Im ia b ad to L abor, coftes 18
L abor is the M etropolis o f a Kingdom, built upon one o f the five Rivers that
defeend from the Mountains o f the North to fvvel! the R iver In d u s ; and give
. the name o f Feniab to all the Region which they water. This R iver at this time
flows not within a league o f the Town, being fubjedt to change its Channel, and
many tim es does very great mifchief to the adjoyning Fields, through the rapid
deluges which it makes. The City is large, and extends it fe lf above a league in
length. But the greateft part o f the Houfes, which are higher than thofe o f
-A « ra and D eli, fall to ruine, by reafon o f the exceffive rains that have overflowed
a great number o f them. The . King’ s Palace is an indifferent fair one, and is nor,
as form erly it was, upon the R iver, which is fall’n off above a quarter o f a league
from it. There is Wine to beiiad at Labor. ,
I muft obferve by the by, that after you have paft Labor , and the Kingdom o f
K akem ir, that lies upon it toward the North, none o f their Women-have any hair
upon any part o f their bodies, and the Men but very little upon their chins.
From Labor to M enat-kan, coftes IZ
From M enat-kan to Faty-abad, coftes * iy
From Faty-abad to Sera-dakan, coftes ly
From Sera-dakan to Sera-balour, coftes xy
From Sera-balour to Sera-dourai, coftes iz
From Sera-dourai to Serinds , coftes 17
From Serinde to Sera-A logoul, coftes . iy
From Sera-M ogoul to Sera-Chabas, coftes
From Sera-C babas to D ira u ril, coftes 17
From D ira u ril to Sera-C rindal, coftes' 14
From Sera-C rin dal to Guienaour, coftes z1
From Guienaour to Debly, coftes 24
Before you go any farther, you are to take notice that all the way from L abor
to D ehly and from D ebly to A g ra , is a continual Walk fet on both fides with fair
Trees 5 an o b je d moft pleafing to the fig h t: But in fome places the Trees are
decaid, and there is no care taken to Plant others in their ftead.
D ebly is a great C ity near the R iver Gemma, which runs from the North to
the South afterwards from the Weft to the Eaft; and after it has paft by A g ra
and K adione, empties it fe lf into the Ganges. After Cba-jehan had built the new
C itv o f Gebanabad, which he call’d by his own N am e; and where he chofe rather
to keep his Court, than at A g ra , becaufe the Climate^ is more temperate D ebly
is almoft come to ruine, and indeed is nothing but an heap o f Rubbifh j there be­
ing no other Houfes remaining but only for poor people. The Streets are narrow,
J i the Houfes o f Bam fouc, as over all the reft o f the In d u s. Neither are there
above three or four Lords o f the C ourt that refide at D ehly tvhere they fet up
their Tents in great Enclofnres, and in the fame manner lodgd the Reverend

is a great C i t y ; and there is nothing t a t a Angle

Wall that makes the reparation. A ll the Houfes o f particular men confift o f great
Enclofnres. in the midft w h ereof is the place for Lodgings. The g r M t t ft ^ r t o f
thp Cords do not live in the C ity, but have their Houfes without,, for the con-
veniency o f the water. As you enter into Gebanabad from D ebly, you meet with
I brbad'street, on each fide whereof are Vaults, where the Merchants
Veen (hops being only plat-form’d at the top. Thisftreet ends in the great Fia z^ a
before the K in g ! Houle ; and there is another very fair and large Street that
/ " r u n s tow ard another Gate o f the fame Palace, in which live the great Merchants

takes up above half a league in circu it: The Walls are o f

fiir e u fs to n e w ith Battlemeiits. The Moats arc fal o f water pav d with Free­
fone The great G ate o f the Palace has nothing in it o f magnificence no more
)?h an ihe fitftC o u rt, into which the great Lords may enter upon theft Elephams
 Having paft that Court, you enter into another long and large paffage, with fair
Portico’s on both ftdes. Under which are feveral little Chambers, where part o f
the Horle-Guard lies. Thefe Portico’s ate rais’d feme two foot above the ground,
and the Horfes which are ti’d without/ feed upon the fteps. In fome places there
are great Gates that lead to feveral Apartments; as to the Womens Lodgings,
and to the Seat o f Juftice. In the nwdft o f the paffage runs a Cut full o f water, * '
leaving a fair Walk on each fide, where, at equal diftances, are little Bafon's or
Fountains.
This long Paffage carries you into a great Court, where the Omras, that is to
fay, the great Lords o f the Kingdom, fuch as the Bafha’s in Turkey and the Karts
in Perfia, keep Guard in Perfon. They have low Lodgings round about the Court,
and their Horfes are ti’d to their doors.
From this fecond Court you pafs into a third, through a great P ortal} on one
fide whereof there is a little Hall, rais’d fome two or three iteps high from the
ground. This is the Wardrobe where the Royal Garments are k e p t; and from
whence the King fends for the Cdaat, or a whole,, Habit for a man, when he
would honour any Stranger, or any one o f his owaaSabiefts. A little farther, un­
der the fame Portal, is the place where the D ru m ® Ttmmpets, and Hautboys are
laid up 5 which they found and beat a little before the King enters into his Judg­
ment-Seat, to give notice to the OmraTs ; and they make the fame noife when
the King is ready to rife. Entring into the third Court, you fee the Divan before '
you, where the King gives Audience. This is a great Hall rais’d fome four-foot-
high above the fuperficies o f the Court, with three fides open, th irty-tw o Pil­
lars fuftain as many Arches ; and thefe Columns are about four-foot-fquare, with
Pedeftals and Mouldings. When Cba-jehan firft began to build this Hall, he in­
tended to have enrich’d it, and inlaid it all over with thofe Stones that feem to be
naturally painted, like thofe in the Great Duke o f Tufcunfs Chappel. But having
made a trial upon two or three Pillars, about two or three-foot-high, he found
that there would not be Stones enough, o f that fort, in the World to finifh the
work ; befides the vaftnefs o f the Sum it would come to. So that he left off
his defign, contenting himfelf with a Painting o f feveral flowers.
In the middle o f this Hall, next to the fide which looks toward the Court,
there is a Throne erected upon a kind o f Theater, where the King gives Audience,
and pronounces Judgment. The Throne is a little Bed, with four-Columns, about
the bignefs o f one o f our Field-Beds, with a Canopy, Backpiece, Boulder and
Counterpoint, all embroider’d with Diamonds. Befides all this, when the King
comes to fit upon the Throne, they throw over the Bed a Coverlet o f Cloath o f
Gold, or fome other richly-embroider’d S ilk ; and he afeends by three little
fteps, two-foot- broad. On one fide o f the Bed is erefted an Vmbrello upon
a Staff, as long as an Half-Pike. Upon one o f the Pillars o f the Throne hangs
one o f the King’s Weapons 5 upon another his B uckler; upon another his Sci-
m etar; and then his Bow and Quiver o f Arrows, and other things o f the feme na­
ture.
Below the Throne there is a place fome twenty-foot-fquare, encompaft with
Balufters, which at fome times are cover’d with Plates o f Silver, at other times
with Plates o f Gold. At the four Corners of'this fmall enclofure fit the four Se­
cretaries o f State, who as well in Civil as Criminal Caufes, do the duty o f Ad­
vocates. Many Lords ftand about this Baluftrade 5 and there is alfo the Mufick
plac’d, that plays all the while the King is in tht Divan. This Mufick is fo fvveet
and foft, that it never takes o ff the mind from the ferioufnefs o f bufinefs at’ that
tim e manag’d. The King being fet upon his Throne, fome great Lord Hands by
h im 5 generally it is fome one o f his owm Children. Between eleven a Clock
and Noon, the Nahab, who is the chief Minifter o f State, like the Grand Fid e/
in Turkey, makes a report to the King o f what has paft in the Chamber where he _
Prefides, which is at the Entry o f the firft Court 5 and when he has done (peak­
ing, the King rifes. For you muft take notice, that from the time that the King
is fate upon his Throne, till he rifes, no perfon whatfoever is permitted to ftir out
e f the Palace; and yet I can fay that the King difpenc’d with m y performance o f
this Law fo generally obferv’d by all (he C o u r t: The occafion whereof wasthus^
in fliort, .
Being
 Being one day going out o f the Palace,while the King was fitting in the D iva n ,
upon fom'e urgent bufinefs that would admit o f no delay, the Captain o f the
Guards held me by the arm, and told me I fhould go no farth er; I contefted and
argued the Cafe with him for fome time, but finding his ufage to be very boifte-
rous, I lifted up my Cane, and had certainly ftrook him in my paffion, had not two
or three o f the Girards that faw all the pafiages, held m y hand. Happily for me
at that time,the N a h a b, who was then the King’ s Unckle, came by, and being in­
formed o f the ground o f our q u a rre l; order’d the Captain o f the Guards to let
m e go. A fter that he made a report to the King how the m atter ltood ; and to­
ward evening the N ahab fent me one o f his Servants to tell me, it was his Ma-*
jefty’ s pleafure, that I might come in or go out o f the Palace, though he were
fitting in the D iva n , as I pleas’ d m y folf ; for which I went the next day, and re­
turn’ d thanks to the N ahab.
Toward the middle o f the fame Court there is a fmall Channel fome five or
fix inches broad, where while the King is fitting upon the Seat o f Juftice, they
that have bufinefs are to hand. Further it is not lawful for them to go, till they
are call’d 5 and Embaffadors themfelves are not exempted from this cuftom.
When an Embaflador comes as far as this Channel, the Mafter o f the Ceremonies
calls out toward the D iva n where the King is fitting, that fuch an Embaffador
craves Audience o f his Majefty. Then one o f the Secretaries o f State declares
It to the King 5 who oftentimes makes as i f he did not hear : But fome time after
lifting up his eyes, he cafts them upon the Embaflador, making him a fign by the
fame Secretary, that he may approach.
From the Hall o f the D iv a n , turning to the left, you walk upon a Terrafs,
where you difcover the River. O ver this Terrafs the King pafles into a little
Chamber, from whence fie goes into his E a r am. In this little Chamber it was
that I had m y firft Audience o f his Majefty ; as I fhall relate in another
place. ,
Upon the left-hand o f the Court where the D iva n is built, ftands a little
M ojquee neatly built 5 the Cupola w hereof is cover’d with Lead perfectly guilded.
H ere the King goes to hear Prayers every day, except it be Fridays, when he is
to go to the great M ofquee, which is a very fair one, and plac’d upon an high
Platform , rais’d higher than the Houfes o f the Cit)7, and there is a noble afoent to
it. That day that the King goes to the Alofquee, they place huge rails o f wood
round about the fteps, as well to keep off the Elephants, as out o f refped to the
A iofquee.
The right-fide o f the Court is taken up with Portico’s, that make a long G al­
le ry , rais’d from the ground about half a fo o t ; and thefo are the King’s Stables,
Into which you have many doors to enter. They are alfo full o f ftately Horfes,
the w orft w h ereof ftands the King in three-thoufund C row n s; and there are
fome that, coft him ten-thoufand. A t the door o f every one o f thefe Stables
hangs a kind o f M at made o f Bambouc, that cleaves like our Ofiers. But where­
as w e bind our O fier-tw igs with the lame Ofier, they bind their Bambouc s with
wreath’d-Silk, which is delicate w ork, but very tedious. Thefe Mats are to hin­
der the Flies from tormenting the Horfes ; there being two Grooms to an Horfo,
one o f which is ftill employ’d in fanning the Beaft. There are alfo M ats fpread
before the Portico’s, and before the Stable-door; which they Ipread or take
away as occafion requires. Arid the Floor o f the Gallery is cover d with fair
Carpets, which is taken aw ay in the evening, and the Horfes U tte r ftrow d in
dm fame place. Which L itte r is nothing but the Horfo-dung dri’d in the Sun, and
then fqueez’d a little flat. The Horfes that are brought into In d ia either out o f
Bc-rfia, A ra b ia , or the Countrey o f V sbech, change their food : For in India they
\ never give them Hay nor Oats. E v ery Horfo in the morning having for his pro-
portion three loaves made o f M eal, Wheat, and Butter, as big as one o f pur fix-
X penny-loaves. ’Tis an hard m atter to bring them to this diet at firft; it being
fom etim es three or four Months before they can do it. The Groom is fore d to
hold their tongue in one hand, and to thruft down the bread with the other.
When Sugar-Canes or M illet are in foafon, they give them that diet about noon;
and in the evening, two hours before Sun-fet, they give them a meafure o f G ar-
) den-Chiches which the Groom foueezes between two ftones, and mixes with wa~
/ - trir;
 ter. This is inftead o f Barley and Oats. As for the King’s other Stables, where
he has alfo very fine Horfes, they are fcurvy places, ill-built, which deferve not to
be mention’d.
The Gemene is a fair River that bears good big Boats, which running to -Agra
lofes its name, falling into Ganges at H allabas. The King has feveral fmall B ri­
gantines at Gehanabad upon the River, to take his pleafure in j and they are very
curioufly trimm’d after the manner o f the Gountrey.
. . ", V A ' _ - -v 'i. \ ■-.% " •/ ■i, * '■ .' - •

CHAP. VII.
The continuance of the fame Road from Dehly to Agra.

F Rom Dehly to Bade lpoura, coftes

From Badelpoura to PelveL-ki-fera, coftes
From P eh e l-k i-fe ra to Cotki-fera , coftes
-
8
18
iy
From Cotki-fera to C hekj-fera, coftes x6
A t Cheki-fera is one o f the greateft Pagods o f the Indians, together with an
Hofpital for Apes $ as well for thofe that breed there-abouts, as for thole that
come from the neighbouring-parts, which the Banians are very careful to feed.
This Pagod is call’d M a tyra , and it was formerly in far greater veneration than
it is at this day. The reafon is, becaufe the Gemene ran' then juft at the very foot
o f the Pagod ; wherein the Banians, as well thofe o f the Countrey, as thofe that
came from remote parts in Pilgrimage, had the convenience to walh themfelves
before they went to their D evotions; and when they had perform’d them, to 1
walh again before they e a t ; which they are not to do ere they have wafh’d j be­
lieving alfo that i f thqy wafh in running-water, their fins will be the more'eafily
defac’d. But fome years fince the River, changing its courfo more to the North­
ward, comes not within a good league o f the Pagod, which is the reafon that the
Pilgrims have deferred it.
From Chekg-fera to Goodkj-fera, coftes y
From Goodkj-fera to A g ra , coftes 6
A g ra lies in 2 7 deg. 3 1 r” :\. o f Lat. and in a Sandy-foil, which caules extre-
iftity o f heat. It is the Aggcft City in In d ia , and formerly the Refidence o f their
Kings. The Houfes o f great Perfons are fair, and w ell-built; but the Houfes o f
the meaner-fort are as plain, as in all the other Cities o f In dia. They are built a
good diftance one from another, and hid by the height o f their Walls, to keep
their Women from being feen : So that it may be eafily conjectur'd that their
Cities are nothing fo pleaftnt as ours in Europe. Add to this, that A g ra being en-
compaft round with the Sands, the heats are there very exceifive, which con-
ftrain’d Cha-jehan to remove from thence, and to keep his Court at Gehanabad.
All that is remarkable in Agra is the King’s Palace ; and fome Monuments as
well near the C ity, as in the parts about it. The Palace o f the King is a vaft piece
o f ground encompaft with a double-wall, which is terrafs’d in fome parts, and
in thofe parts are built certain Lodgings for fome o f the Officers o f the
C o u rt: The Gemene runs before the P alace; but between the Wall and the
R ive r there is a large fpace o f ground, where the King caufes his Elephants to
fight. This Field is on purpofe near the water, becaufe that the Elephant which
gets the victory, being in a fury, they could not bring him to himfelf, did they
not drive him into the River : to which end they are forc’d to have recourfe to
Policy, by-tying Squibs and Crackers to the end o f an Half-Pike, and then giving
fire to them to fright him into the w ater : for when he is in but two or three- ^
foot-deep, he is prefently appeas’d. , f: \
There is a wide PiazXa upon one fide o f the City before the Palace, and the
firft Gate, wherein there is nothing o f magnificence, is guarded by a few S011I-
diers, Before the. King removed his Court from Agra to Gehanabad, when he
went into the Countrey for fome time, he gave to fome one o f his greateft ^
Omrah's-f who was his Confident, the Guard o f his Palace, where his Treafure lay § \
and
 and till the return o f the King he never ftirr’d out o f the Gate, w hefe he lodg’d;
neither by night nor day. At fuch a time as that it was, that I was permit' to
fee the Palace o f -A gra. The King being departed for Gehanab'dd, whither 11 the
Court followed him, together with the Women, the Government o f the Palace
was given to one that was a great Friend to the Hollander.*, and indeed to all the
Frangais. M en h eir F ’e lant, chief o f the H olland-Fdptory at A g ra , fo foon as the
King was departed, went to vjfit the Lord, arid to prefent him according to
ctiftom. T he Prefent was worth about 6000 Crowns, and confiitcd in Spices,
Cabinets o f Japan? and fine H olland-Cloath. He defir’d me to go along v r i
him when he went to Compliment the Governour. But the Lord being offended
that he had put him felf to fo much charge, forc’d him to carry the Prefent back
again, taking only one Japan - Cane, o f fix that were in the Prefent, telling him he
would have no more, out o f the kindnefs which he had for the Franguiz.. N ay, -
he would not fo much as take the Gold-head and Feru la, but caus’d them to be
taken off. The Complements being over, the Governor ask’d M enheir Felan t,
■ wherein he might ferve him : whereupon he defiring the favour, that lirice the
C ourt was gone, he might fee the infide o f the Palace, the Governor granted his
requeft; and order’d fix men to attend him.
The firft Gate w here the Governor o f tire Palace lies, is a long blind Arch,
which leads you into a large Court all environ’d with Portico’s ; Jibe our Piaz.z.a
in Covent-Garden. The Gallery in front is larger and higher than any o f the reft,
fuftain’d bv three ranks o f Pillars, and under thofe Galleries on the other fide o f
the Court" which are narrower and lower, are little Chambers for the Souldiers
o f the Guard. In the midft o f the largfc Gallery, is a Nich in the Wall, into
•which the King defcends out o f his H aram by a private pair o f Stairs, and
when he is in, he feems to be in a kind o f a Tomb. He has no Guards with him
then for he has no reafon to be afraid o f any thin g; there being no way to
com e at him. In the heat o f the day he keeps l^m felf there only with one
Eunuch but more often with, one o f his Children, to fan him. The Great Lords
o f the Court ftay below in the Gallery under the Nich all the While.
A t the farther end o f this Court is ahother Gate that leads into a fecohci
Court encompaft with Galleries, underneath which, are little Chambers for fbme
Officers o f the Palace. The fecond Court carries you into a third, which is the
Kind’s Quarter. ChaGehan had refolv d to cover with Silver all the Arch o f a
Gaiferv upon the right-hand. And a French-mari,A u ftin de Bordeaux -by name,
was to have done the work : but the King not finding any One in his whole King­
dom fo capable as the French-man was to treat with the Portugals at Goa about
fbme important affair he had at that tim e ; the defign was laid afide : For they
being afraid o f A n d in 's Parts, poifon’d him upon his return to Cochin This Gal­
lery is painted with branch’d-work o f Gold arid Azure, and the lower-part is
hung w ith Tapeftry. There are feveral doors under the Gallery that lead into
little fquare-Chambers ; o f which w e faw two or three open d, and they told us
all th e V ft w ere fuch. The other three fides o f the Court he all open, there be­
ing nothing but a fingle Wall, no higher than for a man to lean over. On the
fide that looks toward the R iver there is a D iva n , or a kind o f out-;utting Bal-
cone where the King fits to fee his Brigantines, or to behold his E ephants fight.
Before the D iva n is a G allery, that ferves for a Portico ; which C ha-jehm had a
defign to have adorn’d all over w ith a kind o f Lattice-work o f Emfauldsand R u -
Wes that Should have reprefented to the life Grapes when they
rhev begin to crow red. But this defign which made fuch a noife in the World,
and requir’d more Riches, than all the: World could «
Onfinilh'd, there being only three Stocks o f a Vine ,n Gold, w iththenr leave as
-he reft ought to have been; and enamel d m ' htlr
raids, R u b ils and Granates w rougta into the fafluon o f Grapes. In rue rnM K
J ,r r n u r t Hands a great Fat to bath in, 40 foot in D iam eter, cut out 01 one
/ Sm i “ - C e r * ^ f t e p s wrought out Sr the fame ftone within and with-

7 ° UAs for the Monuments which are in and about Agra, they are very fa? Q; . s f
^ A" t o c e an Eunuch belonging to the K in g s J J g p W
ambitious o f leaving a fair Monument behind him ^Indeed, Whe
heap’d together great Sums, they would fain be going to Mecca, and ma­
king rich rrelents to Mahomet. But the Great Mogul, unwilling to let his
Money go out o f his Countrey, will feldom permit them leave to undertake
that Pilgrim age: and therefore not knowing what to do with their Money
they employ a great part thereof in Monuments, to perpetuate their Memo­
ries.
O f all the Monuments that are to be feen at Agra, that o f the W ife o f
Cha-jehan is the mod magnificent ; the caus’ d it to be let up on purpofe near
the Tafimacan, to which all Strangers muft come, that they Ihould admire it.
The Tafimacan is a great Bazaar, or Market-place, compos’d o f fix great Courts,
all encompafled with Portico's; under which there are Warehoules for Mer­
chants j and where there is a prodigious quantity o f Calicuts vended. The
Monument o f this Degum, or Sultanefs, hands on the Eaft-fide o f the City,
upon the River fide, in a great place enclofed with Walls, upon which there
runs a little G allery, as upon the Walls o f many Cities in Europe. This place
is a kind o f Garden with Compartiments, like our Garden-plots j but whereas
our Walks are made with G ravel, here the Walks are black and white Marble.
You enter into this place through a large P o rtal; and prefently upon the left
hand you elpy a fair Gallery, that looks towards Mecca; wherein there are
three or four Niches, wherein the Mufti comes at certain hours to pray. A
little beyond the middle o f the place, toward the Water, are three great Plat­
forms, one rais’d above another, with four Towers at the four Corners o f each,
and Stairs within, upon the top w hereof they call the people before the time
o f their prayer. On the top there is a Cupola, little lets magnificent than that
o f JT alde Grace in P a r i s ; it is cover’d within and without with black M arble,
the middle being o f Brick. Under this Cupola is an empty Tom b; for the Be­
gum is inter’d under the Arch o f the loweft Platform. The lame change o f
Ceremonies which is obferv^l under ground, is oblerv’d above. For they change
the lapeitries, Candies, and other Ornaments at leveral times, and there are
always MoilaiSs attending to pray. I law the beginning and compleating o f
this great work, that colt two and twenty years labour, and twenty thouland
men always at w o r k ; lb that you cannot conceive but that the Expence muft
be exedfive. Cha-jehan had begun to raife his own Monument on the other
fide o f the R iver 5 but the Wars writh his Son, broke off that defign, nor did
Aurengzxb, now reigning, ever take any care to finifh it. There is an Eunuch
who commands two thouland men, that is entrulted to guard not only tf}e
Sepulcher o f the Begum, but alfo the Tafimacan.
On another fide o f the City, appears the Sepulcher o f King Akabar. And
as for the Sepulchers o f the Eunuchs, they have only one Platform, with four
little Chambers at the four Corners. When you come to Agra from Dehly,
you meet a great Bazaar-, near to which there is a Garden, where King jehan-
guire, Father o f Cha-jehan, lies interr’d. Over the Garden Gate you lee the
Tomb it lelf, befet with Portraitures, cover’d with a black Hearle-Cloath, o r
Pall, with Torches o f white Wax, and two jefimts attending at each end. There
are fome who wonder, that Cha-jehan againft the practice o f the Mahumetans,
who abhor Images, did permit o f carving j but the reafon conjectur’ d at is,
that it is done upon the confideration that his Father and himlelf learnt from
the jejuites certain principles o f Mathematicks and Aftrology. Though he had
not the fame kindnels for them at another time j for going one day to
vifit an Armenian, that lay lick, whole name was Corgia, whom he lov’d, very
w ell, and had honour’d with feveral Employments, at what tim e the fefiuites,
w ho liv’d next to the Armenians houle, rang their Bell 5 the found thereof fo
dilpleas’d the King, as being a difturbance to the fick perlbn, that in a greay
fury he commanded the Bell to be taken away, and hung about his Elephants
neck. Some few days after, the K in g feeing his Elephant with that greatb
Bell about his neck, fearing fo great a weight njight injure his Elephant, caus’d \
the Bell to be carried to the Couteval, which is a kind o f a rail’d place, where
a Provoft fits as a Judg, and decides differences among the people o f that
Quarter, where it has hung ever fince. This Armenian had been brought up
with Cha-jehan ; and in regard he was an excellent Wit, and an excellent Poet^
he
 he was very much in the Kings favour,: who had confer’d upon him many fair
Commands, though he could never either by threats or promifes win him to
turn Mahometan.

C H A P . V III.

Tlje Road from A g r a to P a tn a , and Daca, Cities in the ‘Province of

B e n e a la , and of the Quarrel which the Author had w ith C h a -E f t -
K a i C the Kings Vnckle.

I Departed from Agra toward Bengala the 2 5 tb o f November 16 6 5 , and that

day I reach’d no farther than a v e ry bad Inn, diftant from Agra, coftes
T h e 2 6th I came to Beruzaibad, coftes . , . 9
3

This is a little C ity where,at m y return,I received eight thoufand Roupies,being

the remainder o f the Money which Giafer-Kan ow’d me for Wares that he had
bought at fanabat.
The 2 7 th to Serael Morlides, coftes - 9
T he 2 8 th to Serail Eftanja, coftes x4
The 2 9th to Serail H aii-m af coftes 1Z
The 30 th. to Serail Sekandera, coftes x3
The 1 (i o f December to Sanqual, coftes . J4
I met that day 1 ioW aggons,every Waggon drawn by fixOxen,& in every Waggon
eooooRoupies. This is the Revenue o f the Pro vinceof Bengala,with all charges de-
fraid and the Governor’s Purfe weli-fffl’d, comes to 5 509000 Roupies. A league
bevond Sanqual, you muft pafs a R ive r call’d Sting* * , which runs into Gesmne not
~5 ° e h alf a league diftant from it. You'pafs over this R iver o f Samgonr upon
a Stone-bridg, and when you come from toward Bengala to go toSeronge or Su~
v i i f vou have a mind to fhortcn your journey te n g a y s, you muft leave A gra-

u p l l h c ftones, and alfo for that you are to pafa through the Territories

i*

o f nine or t e n je a r s g Umoceros who immediately came tom e open-

i r h “ a o p T t o e or four times , I put the Millet into his mouth, and when he
had fw allow ’d it, he Hill open’d bis mouth for more.
The 3 d I came to Serrail Chaqeadat coites
The 4 th to Serrail Atakan, coftes . ^
The 5 th to Aureng-Abadjj coftes _ ■ being the place where Aureng-
FormeBy this Village ^ ^ a n m h ^ , wasg Governor o f all the Pro-
zeb gave Battel to his Brother the yidlory he had won, gave it
S own S ah h S £ i ’ a very fa il Houfe, with a Garden, and a M e
Mojquee. 9
T he 6th to Ahnchahy- coftes . E R iver Gances. Monjieur Ber-
T w o leagues on this fide Ahnchan, you meet the R J ag with
s’ math e K ing’s Phyfitian, and a n o tto t^ “ " ^ f t hat had Jm sde fich a noife
' w hom I travell d, w ere amaz d to lee that a K before the Lovre-, be-
in the W orld, was no broader above Belgrade. There is
lieving before, that it had been as when the rains fall, that it
alfo fo little w ater in it from a ? Games w e drank every one o f us a
will not bear a t o l l Boat. When we came to Ganges, W ora y ^
 Glafs o f Wine, mixing fome o f the River-water with i t ; which caus’d a griping
in our bellies : But our Servants that drank it alone, were worfe tormented than
w e. The Hollanders, who have an Houfe upon the Bank o f Ganges, never drink
the water o f this R iv e r, until they have boil’d it. But for the natural Inhabitants
o f the Countrey, they are fo accuftom’d to it from their youth, that the King
and the Court drink no other. You Ihall fee a vaft number o f Camels every
day, whofe bufinefs only it is to fetch water from the Ganges.
The 7 th, I came to Halabas, codes 8
Halabas is a great City, built upon a point o f Land where Ganges and Ge-
mine meet. There is a fair Caftle o f hew’n Stone, with a double M oat; where
the Governour refides. He is one o f the greateft Lords in India j and being
v e ry fickly, he has always about him ten Perjian Phyficians. He had ahb in
his fervice, Claudius M aille o f Bourges, who practifes Chyrurgery and Phyiick
both together. This was he that advis’d us not to drink o f Ganges W ater,
which would put us into a loofenefs; but rather to drink W ell-water. The
chief o f thefe Perjian Phyficians, whom this Governour hires w ith his M oney,
one day threw his Wife from the top o f a Battlement to the ground ; prompt­
ed to that aft o f cru elty, by fome jealoufies he had entertain’d; He thought
the fall had kill'd her, but file had only a Rib or two bruis'd ; whereupon the
Kindred o f the Woman came and demanded juftice, at the feet o f the Gover­
nour. The Governour fending for the Phyfieian, commanded him to be gone,
refolving to retain him no longer in his fervice. The Phyfieian obey’d , and
putting his maim’d W ife in a Pallanquin, he fet forward upon the Road with
all his Family. But he was not gone above three or four days journey from
the City, when the Governour finding him felf worfe than he was wont to b e ,
fent to recall h im ; which the. Phyfieian perceiving, ftab’d his Wife, his four
Children, and thirteen female Slaves, and return’d again to the Governour, who
laid not a word to him, but entertain’d him again into his fervice.
The eighth day I crofs’d the River in a large Boat, having hay’ d from morn­
ing till noon upon the bank-fide, expecting Monfieur M aille , to bring me a Pals-
port from the Governour. For there hands a Deroga upon each fide o f the
R iver, who w ill not fulfeqgny perfon to pafs without leave j and he takes no­
tice what fort o f Goods dxc tranfported j there being due from every Waggon
four Roupies, and from every Coach o n e ; not accounting the charge o f the
Boat,which you muh pay befide. The feme day I went to Sadoul-fcrailyCQ&es 1 6
The ninth, to Yakedel-fera, cohes io
The tenth, to Bourakj-fera, cohes io
The eleventh, to Banarou, cohes io
Banarou is a large C ity, and handfomly b u ilt ; the moh part o f the Houfes
being either o f Brick or Stone, and higher than in any other Cities o f India $
but the inconveniency is, that the Streets are very narrow. There are many
• Inns in the T o w n ; among the reft, one very targe, and very handfomely built.
In the middle o f the Court are two Galleries, where are to be fold Calicuts,
Silks, and other forts o f Merchandife. The greateft part o f the Sellers, are
the Workmen them felves; fo that the Merchants buy at the firft hand. Thefe
Workmen, before they expofe any thing to fele, mull go to him that has the
ftamp, to have the Kings Seal fet upon their Linnen and S ilk s; otherwise they
would be fin’d, and lambafted with a good Cudgel; This C ity is feituated ,
upon the North fide o f Ganges, that runs by the Walls, and into which there
falls alfo another R iver, fome two Leagues upward toward the Weft. In Bancroft
Hands one o f the Idolaters principal Pagods, whereof I Ihall fpeak in m y fecond
Book, when 1 come to treat o f the Religion o f the Banians.
About five hundred paces from the C ity Northward, there is a Mofquee
where are to be feen- many Mahometan Sepulchers; w hereof fome are very
curi8us pieces o f Archite&ure. The faireft are every one in the middle o f a V
Garden enclofed with Walls, wherein there are Holes fome h alf a foot Iquare,- v
through which Paffengers may have a-fight o f the Tomb within. The molt
confiderable o f all is as it were a four Iquare Pedeftal, every Iquare whereof
is forty paces wide. In the midft o f this Platform riles a Column thirty-two
o f thirty-five foot high, all o f a piece, which three men can hardly embrace. ^
 The Stone is o f a g re y colour, and fo hard that I could not fcrape it with my
Knife. As it is Pyram id ical, there is a great Bowl at the top, which is en-
compaft’d at the upper end with huge Grains o f Wheat. All the wonts o f
the Tomb are full o f figures o f Animals cut in the Stone ; and it has been
higher above ground than now it feems to be, for feveral old men, that look’d
to fem e o f the Sepulchers, alfur’d me, that within thefe fifty years it had funk
above th irty foot into the Earth. They tell you m oreover, that it is the Se­
pulcher o f one o f the Kings o f Botitan, who was interred here after he had left
his own Countrey to conquer this Kingdom, out o f which he was driven by
the Succeflfors o f Tamerlane. The Kingdom o f Boutan is the place from whence
th ey fetch Musk, and I will give you a defcription o f it in m y third Book.
I ftay’d at Banaroa the 1 2 th and 1 3 th ; and during thofe two days it rain'd
continually, but not fo as to flop m y journey'; fo that the evening o f the thir­
teenth day I crofs’d the Ganges, w ith the Governours Paft-port. Before you
go. into the Boat, they fearch the Travellers baggage; wearing Apparel how­
e v e r pays nothing o f Cuftom, but only Merchandife.
T he t y h , I went to Baterpour, coftes 2
The 1 4 th, to Satraguy-fera, coftes 8
The 1 <^th, to M om arkj-fra, coftes 9
The fame day in the morning, after I had travefd tw o Leagues, I crofs d a
R iv e r call’d Carnafarfoti; and three Leagues from thence I crofs’d another,
which they call Saode-fou ; both which I foarded.
The 1 6th, to Gourmabad, coftes 8
This is a Town upon a R iver call’d Gottdera-foa, which is crofs’d over a Stone-
Bridg.
The 1 7 th, to Saferon, coftes 4
Saferon is a C ity at the foot o f certain Mountains, near to which there is
a great Lake. In the middle w h ereof there is a fmall Ifland, with a fair Mojqtiee
built upon it? wherein is to be feen, the Sepulcher o f a Nahab or Favourite,
call’d Selim-Kan ; who built it when he was Governour o f the Province. There
is a fair Bridg to crofs over into the Ifland, pav’d and lin’d with large free
Stone. Upon one fide o f the Lake is a great Garden, in the middle w hereof
is another fair Sepulcher o f the Son o f the fame 'N ahab, Selim-ICan, w hofuc-
ceeded his Father in the Government o f the Province.: I f you would go to
the Mine o f Soulmelpow, w h ereo f I fhall fpeak in the laft Book o f theie R e ­
lations, you muft leave the great Road to Patna, and bend to the South through
Exberbourgh, and the famous Fortreft o f Rhodes, o f which I fhall treat in the

The* 1 8th, I ferry’d in a Boat over the R iver Sonfox, which defeends from
the Southern Mountains } after you have crofs’d it, the Merchandife pays a cer­
tain T oll. , , , 1 ■ r -
The fame day I travel’d on to D amd-Nagar-fera, where there is a fair
Tom b, coftes 9
The 1 9 th, to Halva-fera, coftes 10
The 2 0 th, to slga-fera, coftes , ?
In the morning I feet a hundred aftd thirty Elephants, great and fmall, which
they were leading to Dehli to the great Mogul.
The one and twentienth, to Patna, coftes , ' ; - *°
Patna is one o f the greateft C ities o f India, upon the Bank o f Ganges to-
w ard the W e ft; not being left than two Leagues m length. But the Houles
are no fairer than in the greateft part o f the other Cities o f n a , .g
co v e r’d w ith BambaMi, or Straw . The A M Company haVeaH oufe there
b v reafon o f their Trade in Saltpeter, which they refine at a great Town call d
Chottpar, which is alfo feituated upon Ganges, ten Leagues above Patna.
S Com ing to Patna, w e met the Hollanders, in the Street returning from Chou-
par w h o ftop’d our Coaches to falute us. We did not part, till we had emptied
tw o Bottles o f Schiras Wine in the open S tre e t; which is not taken notice o f
in that C ountry, where people meet with an entire freedom without any Cere-

m °lMftay’d eight days at Patna, during which tim e there fell out an accident,.
 which will let the -Reader underhand, that Sodomj does not go altogether un-
punifh’d among the Mahometans, A Mimbachij who commanded a thoufand
Foot, went about to abufe a young Boy in his fervice 5 and who had feveral
tiroes refilled his attempts ; complaining alfo to the Governour, and telling
him withall, that i f his Matter perfifted to urge him any more, he would cer­
tainly kill him. At length the Captain took his opportunity, at a Houle which <■ •
he had in the Country, and forc’d the Boy. The Boy o’rewhelm’ d with g rie f
and rage, took his opportunity alfo to revenge him felf; and being one day hunt­
ing with his Matter, about a quarter o f a League from any o f his other Ser­
vants, he got behind him, and cleft his head with his Hanger. After he had
done, he rode full Ipeed to the C ity, crying out all the w ay, that he had kill'd
his Matter for fuch a reafon ; and went immediately to the Governours L edg­
ing, who lent him to prifon 5 but he let him out at the end o f fix months j
and notwithftanding all the endeavours which the Captains Kindred us’d to have
had him put to death, the Governour durft not condemn him, for fear o f the
people, who affirm’d that the Boy had done well. <
I parted from Patna, in a Boat for D aca, the nine and twentieth o f Janu­
ary, between eleven and twelve at noon ; and had the R iver been deep, as it
ufes to be after the Rains, I had taken Boat at Hallabas, or at leaft at Ba-
narott,
The lame day I came to lye at fera-Beconcoar, cottes
Five Leagues on this fide Beconconr, you meet with a River call’d Pompon-
few, which comes from the South, and falls into Ganges.
The thirtieth to Sera-d’ Erija, cottes 17
The one and thirtieth, after w e had travel’d four Leagues, or thereabout,
w e met with the R iver Kaoa, which comes from the South. Three Leagues
low er, you meet w ith another R iver call’d Chanon, which comes from the
North. Four Leagues farther, you difcover the River Ergnga, which runs from
the S o u th ; and at length, fix Leagues beyond, the R iver Ayoera, falling from
the lame part o f the World s all which four Rivers Idle their Names in the
Ganges. All that day I faw great Mountains toward the South, diftant from
Ganges lometimes ten, and fometimes fifteen Leagu es, till at length I came
to lodg in APonger-CMy, cottes 18
The firft day o f January, 1 666, after I had gone by Water two hours, I law
the Gander fall into the Ganges, flowing from sjie North. This is a great R i­
ver, that carries Boats.
That eveining I Jay at Zangira, cottes 8
But in regard o f the winding o f Ganges all that days journey, I might well
reckon them by Water two and twenty Leagues.
The fecond day, from between fix in the morning till eleven, I faw three
Rivers that threw themfelves into Ganges 5 all three defcending from the North.
The firft is call’d Ronova, the fecond Tae, the third Chanan.. /
I came to lye at BayneIpoar, cottes 18
The third, after four hours upon the Ganges, I met the River Katare, which
comes from the N orth 5 and lay at a Village call’d Pongangel, at the foot o f
certain Mountains that defcend to Ganges it felf, cottes 15
The fourth, an hours rowing beyond Pongangel, I met a great R ive r, call’d
M art-Nadi, coming from the South 5 and I lay at Rage-Mehale, cottes 6 .
Rage-Mehale, is a C ity upon the right hand o f Ganges j and i f you go by
Land, you (hall find the high-way, for a League or tw o, pav’d with Brick to
the Town. Formerly the Governours o f Bengala refided h e re ; it being aa
excellent Country for hunting, befides that it was a place o f great Trade. Bnt
now the River having taken another courfe, above a good h alf League from the
C ity, as well for. that reafon, as to keep in awe the King o f Araean, and fe­
veral PortHgnefe Banditi, who are retir’d to the mouths o f Ganges, and made }
excurfions even as far as Daca it fe lf; both the Governour and the Merchants V
have rem ov’d themfelves to Daca, which is at prefent a large C ity , and a
Town o f great Trade.
The fixth,being arriv’d at a confiderableToWn, call’d Donapo»r, fix Leagues from
btage-Mehak. I parted with Monfieur Bernier3 who was going to Cafenbafar, ^
 and thence to Ogouli by Land ; for when the River is low , there is no goinn by
Water, by realbn o f a great Bank o f Sand that lies before a C ity call’d San.
tiqvi.
I lay that night at Toutipour, diftant from Rage-mehale, codes xz
I faw there at Sun-rifing a great number o f Crocodiles lying upon the Sand.
The feventh, I came to Acerat, codes 2-
From Acerat to Baca, it is counted by Land forty-five Leagues. All that
day £ faw fuch a vaft number o f Crocodiles, that I had a great defire to ftioot
at one, to try whether the vulgar report were true, that a Musket-fhot would
not pierce their skin. The bullet hit him in the jaw , and made the blood gufli
o u t ; how ever he would not day in the place, but plung’d into the River. .
T h e eighth, I faw again a great number lying upon the bank o f the R iver, and
made tw o Ihot at tw o with three bullets at a time. As foon as they were woun­
ded, th ey turn’d themfelves upon their backs, opening their throats, and di’d upon
the Ipot.
T h at day I came to lie at Doulondla, codes . xj
T he Crows w ere here the caufe that w e found a very fair Fifb, which the Fifher-
men had hid among the Ofiers by the fide o f the R iver j for when our Water-men
faw the Crows in great numbers hovering, and making an hideous noife about the
O fiers, they prefently eonjedtur’d that there was fomething more than ordinary:
and they made fo diligent a fearch, that at length they found an excellent difh o f
meat.
The ninth, two hours after noon, we diet writh a R iver call’d Chativor, that runs
from the N orth, and we lay at Dampour, codes 16
The tenth, w e lay by the River-fide in a place remote from Houles, and w e
traveli’d that day, codes if
T he eleventh, toward evening, being come to that part where Ganges divides it
fe lf into three Arms, w hereof one runs to Baca w e lay at a large Town, upon
the entry o f the great Channel, which Town is call’d fatrapour, codes zo
T h e y that have no luggage, may make a lhort-cut from fatraponr to Daca, and
fave much ground, by reafon o f the many windings o f the River.
T he tw elf, about noon, we pad by a large Village call’d Bagamara, and came to
lie at Kafiata, another great Town, codes ir
T h e thirteenth, about noon w e met with a R iver, tw o leagues from Baca,
call’d Laqnia, which runs from the N orth-Ead. Iud againd the Point where the
tw o R ivers join, there ftands a Fortrefs o f each fide, w ith leveral pieces o f Can­
non. H alf a league low er, appears another R iver call’d B again, upon which'there
Is a*fair Bridg o f Brick, which Mirz.a-Mola caus’d to be built. This R iver comes
from the N orth-Ead ; and half a league upward appears another R iver call’d Ca-
damtali, that runs from the N orth, oyer which there is another Bridg o f Brick.
On both fides o f the R iver are feveral Towers, as it w ere enchas’d with feveral
heads o f men, executed for robbing upon the high-way. , 0
About evening w e came to Baca, having travell’d by water that day, Codes 9
Baca is a great to w n , that extends it fe lf only in length; every one coveting to
have an Houfe b y the Ganges-fide. The length o f this Town is above two leagues.
And indeed from the lad Brick-Bridg which I mention’d, to Baca, there is but one
continued row o f Houfes feparated one from the oth er; inhabited for the molt
. part by Carpenters, that build G alleys and other fmall Veirels. Thefe Houfes;are
S properly no more than paltry Huts built up with Bambonc’s, and daub d over with
fat Earth. Thofe o f Daca are not much better b u ilt : The Governor s Palace s
a place enclos’d w ith high W alls, in the midft w hereof is a pittiful Houle, built
on lv o f Wood. He generally lodges in Tents, which he caUfes to be fet up m a
great C ourt o f that Enclofure. The Hollanders finding that their Goods were not
fafe in the ordinary Houfes o f Baca, have built them a v ery fair Houle 5 and the
S EngUJh have another, which is reafonably handfom. T he Church o f the Aufim -
/ ' Friers is all o f Brick, and is a v ery comely Pile. , .
When I travell’d lad to Baca, the Nahab C ha-Efl-K an, who was then Gover­
nor o f B en ga la , was at War with the King o f A ra k a n ,wvhofe Naval-Force confids
generally o f 20 0 Galealfes, attended by feveral other fmaller Veflels. Thefe
la le a ffe s run through the G u lf o f B en galaand enter into the mouth o f Ganges^
 the Sea flowing up higher then Baca. Cha-Eft-Kan, Unde to King Aureng-
the prefent Mogul, and the belt Head-piece that ever was in all his Territo­
ries, found out a w ay to corrupt feveral o f the King o f Aracatfs Captains, lb that
o f a fudden-forty Galeafles,' commanded by Portugals, came and join’d themfelves
with him. T o engage more firmly all this new multitude to his fervice, he
gave a larger pay to all the Pormgal-Offictts, and to the SouJdiers proportiona-
bly : But thole o f the Countrey had no more than their ordinary pay doubl’d.
’Tis an incredible thing to fee how fw iftly thefe Galeafles cut their way in the wa­
ter. Some are- fo long that they carry fifty Oars o f a fid e; but they have but
tw o men to an Oare : There are fome very curioufly painted, and upon which
there is no coft o f Gold and Azure fpar’d. The Hollanders have fome o f their
own to tranfport their G o o d s; and fometimes they are forc’d to hire others,
whereby many people get a good livelihood.
The next day after my arrival at Baca, which was the 1 4 tb o f f a»narj, I went
to wait upon the Nabob and prefented him with a Garment o f C lo a th o f Gold,
lac'd with a Gold-needle-work Lace o f Point o f Spain} with a S carf o f Gold
and Silver o f the fame Point; and a very fair Emrald-Jewel. Toward evening,
being return’d to the Hollander’s Houfe, where I lodg’ d, the Nabob fent me Gra-
nates, C^»<z-Oranges, two Perfian-Melons, and three forts o f Pears.
The fifteenth, I fhewed him my Goods, and prefented the Prince with a Watch,
in a Gold-Enamell’d -C afe ; with a pair o f little Piftols inlaid with Silver, and a
very fair Profpedive-Glafs. What I gave to the Father and the Son, a young
Lord, about ten years old, flood me in above five thouland Livres.
The fifteenth, I treated with him about the Prizes o f my G o o d s: And at length
I went to his Steward to take my Letter o f Exchange to be paid at Cafen-Baz.ar.
N ot but that he would have paid me my Money at Daca? but the Hollandersf who
underftood things better than I did,told me it was very dangerous to carry Mony to
Cafen-Baz.ar,wh\thGT there was no going,but over the Ganges by water,the way by
land being full o f Bogs and Fer s. And to go by water is no lefs dan gerou sly reafon
that the Boats which they ufe, are very apt to tip over upon the leaft ftorm : And
when the Mariners perceive that you carry Money along with you, ’tis an eafy
thing for them to overfet the Boat, and afterwards to come and rake up the
Money that lies but at the bottom o F the River.
The twentieth, I took leave o f the Nabob, who defin’d me to come and fee
him again, and caus’d a Pafs to be deliver’d me, wherein he gave me the title o f
one o f the Gentlemen o f his Houfe, which he had done before, when he was G o­
vernor o f Amadabad, when I went to him, to the Army, in the Province o f Decan,
into which the Raja-fcva-gi was enter’d, as I fhall relate in another place. B y ver-
tue o f thefe Pafles I could travel over all the Countreys o f the Great Mogul, as
being one o f his Houfhold.
The one and twentieth, the Hollanders made a great Feaft for m y fake j to
which they invited the Er.gHJh, and fome Portuguefts, together with the Auftitp-
Friers o f the fame Nation.
The two and twentieth, I made a Vifit to the Englijh, whofe Prefident then was
Mr. Prat.
From the twenty-third to the twenty-ninth, I bought up Goods, to the value
o f 110 0 0 R ou pies; and after I had embark’d them, I took my leave.
The twenty-ninth, in the evening, I departed from Daca, the Hollanders bear-
ing me company for, tw o leagues, with their little Barques Arm’d : N o r did we
fpare the Spanijk-Wme all that time. Having been upon the R iver from the
twenty-ninth o f January to the eleventh o f February, I left my Goods and Ser­
vants in the Barque at Acerat s w here I took a Boat that carri’d me to a great
Village call’d Mrrdapour.
The next day I hir’ d an Horle for m y felf, but not finding another for m y Lug­
gage, I w as forc’d to hire two Women, who carri’d it for me. That evening I ar-
riv’d at Cafen-Bafar, where I was welcom ’d by Menheir Arnold Van W achttendon v
D irector o f all the Holland-V^diovks in Bengala,who invited me to lie at bis Houfe.
The fourteenth, Menheir Wachttendonlyreturn’d to Ouguely, where is the Gene­
ral Fa&ory. The fame day one o f m y Servants brought me word that m y
People and G oods, which I had left behind in the Barque, had been in very
 great danger, by reafon o f the high Winds that had blown for two days to­
gether.
The fifteenth, the Hollanders lent me a Pallekis, to go to Madefourbafarki.
This was a great Town three Leagues from Cafen-bafar, where lay Cha-Eft-
Kan’s R eceiver General, to whom I prefented my Bill o f Exchange. He told
me it was very good, and that he would willingly have paid me, had he not
receiv’d order the night before, not to pay me, in cafe he had not paid me al­
ready. H e did not tell me the reafon that mov’d dha-Eft-Kau to a d in that
m anner; To that I went home to m y Lodging infinitely furpriz’d at his pro­
ceeding.
T he fixteenth, I wrote to the Nabab, to know the reafon w hy he had for­
bad his Receiver General to pay me.
T h e feventeenth in the evening, I took water for Ougueli, in a Bark o f four­
teen Oars, which the Hollanders lent m e ; and that night and the next I lay
upon the River.
The nineteenth toward evening, I pafs’d by a large Town call’d Nandi, far­
ther than which the Sea does not flow. Here the Wind blew fo fiercely, and
the Water grew fo rough, that w e were forc’d to flay three or four hours,
and ly by the fhore.
The twentieth, I arriv’d at Ougueli, where I flay’d till the fecond o f March,
During which time the Hollanders bid me very welcome, and made it their
bufinefs to fhew me all the divertifements which the Country was capable to
afford. W e went feveral times in Pleafure-Boats upon the River, and we had
a Banquet o f all the D elicaciU dh at the Gardens o f Europe could have afforded
us. Salads o f all forts, Colewarts, Afparagus, Peafe, but our chiefeft Difh was
fapon Beans ; the Hollanders being very curious to have all forts o f Pulfe and
Herbs in their Gardens, though they cou ld. never get Artichokes to grow in
that Country. *
T he fecond o f March I left Ougueli, and the fifth a rn v d at Cajenbajar.
• T he next day I went to Madejou-Barfaki, to know whether the Nabab had
fent any other orders to his Receiver. For I told you a little before, that I
w rote upon the place to C ha-Ejl-K an, to complain o f his proceedings, and
to know the reafon w hy my Bill o f Exchange was not paid. The Director
o f the Holland Factories w rit a Letter alfo in my behalf, which I enclofed,
wherein he represented to the Nabab, that I was too well known to him, as
having Been form erly with him at Amadabat, in the Arm y in Decan, and other
places, to deferve fuch hard ufage. That he ought to confider, that I being
the only perfon that brought the chiefeft rarities o f Europe to the Indies, it
was not the w ay to make me eager o f returning any more, as he himfelf had
invited me to do, to fend me aw ay in a difcontent. Befides, that the credit
o f m v report would difcourage others from coming to the Indies, fearing the
fame ufage as I had receiv’d. N either mine nor the Directors Letter produc d
that e ffed which w e expeded. N o r was I much better fatisfi d with the new
order which the Nabab fent to his R e ceiver; which was to pay me, abating
twenty thoufand Roupies o f the fum which we had agreed upon; and it 1
would7 not take the remainder, that I might come and fetch my_ goods; again.
, This ill dealing o f the Nabab, proceeded from a feurvy trick that w -s play d
m e by three Canary-birds at the Great Moguls Court. The ftory w iereo

^ A m w g ^ b ^ t hat now reigns, at the mitigationlof two P ^ n s zndzBanian

has brought up a cuftom v e ry much to the difadvantage o f Merchants, that
com e out o f Europe, and other parts, to fell Jew els at Court. For whether
S come into India either by Land or S e a , the Governour o f the place
\ w here they firft arrive, has order to fend them to the King, together with
' d ieir goods, whether they w ill or no. As the Governour o f Surat dealt by
m e in the year 1 66j , fending me to Dehli, or fehanabad, where the King
was There w ere then attending upon his M ajefty, tw o Perfians and a ^ a m a ,
S h o are entrusted to view and examine all the Jew els which are to be fold
to the King One o f thofe Perfians is call’d Nabab-Akel-Kan, that is, the ? rinc.
keeps all 4 e Kings Jew els. The natne o f the o t h e r j
U* *
Mirz.a-Moufon, whofe bufinefs is to rate every ftone. The Banian, whole
name is Nalikan, is to fee whether the Stones be falle or not, or whether they
have any defedt. Thefe three men have obtain’d a Licence from the King, to
view, before ever he does, whatever forreign Merchants fhall bring to Court,
and to prefent. their goods to him themfelves. And though they are under an
Oath not to take any thing from the Merchants, yet they extort whatever
they can get from them, though it be to their ruine. When they fee any thing
that is lovely, and likely to bring great profit, they would perfwade you to
fell it to them for Iefs by half than the thing is worth ; and i f you refufe to
let them have ir, when they are in the Kings prefence, they will fet a price
upon it at half the v alu e; knowing that Attrengz.eb is not very covetous o f
Jewels, loving his Money far better. Upon the Kings Feftival-day, o f which
I fhall (peak in another place, all the Princes and Nobility o f the Court pre-
fent him with moft magnificent gifts. And when they cannot meet with Jewels,
they fend him Roupies o f Gold, which the King likes far better than Stones
though Jew els are the more honourable prefent. Therefore when this Feftival
draws nigh, he ifliies out o f his Treafury, a great quantity o f Diamonds, Ru­
bies, Emraulds, and Pearls, which he who is entrufted to prize the Stones, de­
livers to feveral Merchants to fell to the Nobility, who are bound to prefent
the King ; by which means the King gets the Money and his Jew els again.
There is alfo another thing very difadvantageous ito a Merchant Jeweller,
which is, that when the King has feen the Stones, no Prince or Nobleman
that knows o f it, will ever buy them. Befidesg^while thefe three perfons, who
are entrufted to view the Jew els, are confidermg and examining them at their
Lodgings, feveral Banians refort thither, who are expert, fome in Diamonds,
fome in Rubies, fome in Emraulds, and others in Pearls, who write down the
weight, goodnefs, cleannefs, and colour o f every piece. So that when a Mer­
chant goes afterwards to any Prince or Governour o f any Province, thefe people
fend them a note o f what he has, and the price, which they fet down at half
the value. For in trade thefe Banians are a thoufand times worfe than the
Jew s; more expert in all forts o f cunning tricks, and more maficioufly mifchie-
vous in their revenge. N ow you fhall hear what a trick thefe unworthy peo­
ple ferv’d me.
When I arriv’d at Gehanabad, one o f them came to my Lodging, and told
me, he had order from the King to fee what I had brought, before I expos’d
m y goods in the Kings prefence. They would have rather that the King had
not been at Gehanabad, for they would have then endeavour’d to have bought
them themfelves, to gain thereby, by felling them again to the King, or the'
Nobility upon occafion ; which they could never perfwade me to. The next
day they came to fee me all three, one after another; and they would needs
have o f me, amongft other things, a Jew el o f nine great Pearls, in the fafhion
o f a Pear, the biggeft w hereof weigh’d thirty Carats, and the Ieaft fixteen 5
together with another fingle Pearl like a Pear, o f fifty-five Carats. As for
the Jewel, the King took i t ; but for the fingle Pearl, they finding that what­
ever they could fay, I would not be wrought upon to fell them any bargains,
lo order’d it, that before I had fhew’ d my Jewels to the King, Giafer-Kan
the Kings Uncle faw, and kept it, telling me he would give me as good a
price as the K in g ; and defir’d me not to fpeak o f it, for indeed he had a de-
fign to make a prefent to the King. r
When the King had made choice o f fuch o f my Jew els as he pleas’d, Giafer-
Kan bought o f me feveral pieces, and at the fame time agreed with me for
the great Pearl. Some days after he paid me, according as we had agreed, ex­
cept for the Pearl, upon which he would have abated me ten thoufand Rou- ,
pies. For the two Perftans and the Banian had malitioufly inform’d him, that ' .
at m y firft arrival, they could have bought the Pearl for eight o r ten thoufand
Roupies Iefs than I had valu’d it to h im ; which was abfolutely falfe. There­
upon Giafer-Kan telling me, that if I would not take his° M oney, I might
have my Jew el again ; I took him at his word, affuring him, he fhould never ■
fee it again as long as he liv’d. And I was as good as my word. And indeed
that which made me the more refolute was, that I was refolv’d to carry fome-
thing
 5#- ' '

B o o k ! T r a v e ls in I n d ia . 55*

fpmething which was confiderable to Cha-Eft-Kan; for could I have had my liber­
ty upon m y arrival at Surat to have gone to him, I would never have leen
the King at Gehanabad; about which I had a v ery great quarrel with the G o -
vernour o f Surat. For when I came to vifit him, he told me prefently, that
the cafe w as alter’d from what it had been fince m y laft being there, for that
the King was refolv’d to have the firft view o f all Curiofities imported into
his Kingdom . I was above four Months contending in vain with the G over-
nour ; but nothing would ferve ; I mult go to the King, and for fear I fhould
• take another Road, he fent fifteen Horfemen along w ith me as far as Sha-
• laour.
1 When I went for Bengala, thefe Overfeers o f the Jew els, out o f meer fpite,
and, it may be, fet on by Giafer-ICan, to be reveng’d o f me for denying to
le t him have m y Jew el, w rit to Cha-Eft-Kan, that I intended to Ihew him
certain Jew els, among the reft a very fair Pearl, which I had fold to Giafer-
K a n } but that he had given it me again, becaufe he underftood that I would
have made him pay for it, ten thoufand Roupies more than it was worth.
T h ey wrote alio the particular proportion o f all the other Stones which I
carry’d. And upon this falfe and malicious advice it w as, that Cha-Eft-Kan,
w ho receiv’d not this information till he had deliver’d me m y Bill o f Exchange,
w ould abate m e .fo r m y whole parcel, twenty thoufand R oupies, which he
reduc’d at length to ten thoufand 5 and well I had it too.
Since I told you before, what a Prefent I gave to Cha-Eft-ICam 5 I think
it hot amifs to tell you, w hat I gave the King, to Nahab Giafer-ICan, to the
Eunuch o f the Grand Begum, Aurengz.eb's Sifter, the Great Treafurer, and the
Porters o f the Treafury. For you muft take notice, that whoever he be, that
craves Audience o f the King, they ask him in the firft place, where the Pre­
fent is which he intends for the K in g ; and examine whether it be fitting to
prefent to his M ajefty. For no man muft come into his prefence empty handed,
though it be an honour dearly purchas’d. Coming then to Gehanabad, I went
to m ake m y obeifance to the King ; and this is the Prefent which I made

In the firft place, a Buckler o f Brafs highly embofs’d, and very richly guilt,
th e coft o f the Guilding alone amounting to two hundred Ducats o f Gold, or
eighteen hundred L iv r e s ; the value o f the whole p ie c e coming to four thou-
iand three hundred feventy eight Livres. In the middle thereof was the ftory
o f Curtius, who threw him felf and his Horfe into the Barathrum, when the
Earth gap’ d, near Rome. Round the outermoft Circle o f the Buckler, was re-
prefented the fiege o f Rochel. It was wrought by one o f the belt Workmen
in France, by the order o f Cardinal Richlieu. All the great Lords that were
about Aurengz-eb at that time, w ere charm’ d at the beauty o f the Workman-
fhip, and told him, he could not do better, than to put .it upon the^ great
Elephant, which carry’d the Standard before his M ajefty when he march d into

*h I presented him alfo with a Battle-Axe o f Chryftal o f the Rock the fides
w h ereof w ere fet w ith Rubies and Emraulds, enchasd in Gold in the bod} ot
/ t he Chrvftal which coft three thoufand one hundred and nineteen Livres.
M oreover, I prefented him w ith a Saddle after the Turky fafluon,
d e / d with little Rubies, Pearls, and Diamonds, which coft two thoufand eight
hundred and ninety-two L ivres. , .,. ,, •h
I prefented him alfo with another Saddle and Foot-cloath, embro der d l h
G o ld and Silver, to the value o f one thoufand feven hundred and thirty Livres.
T h e. whole Prefent amounting to twelve thoufand one hundred and n.netee

L T h e ' Prefent which I made to Giafar-Kan, the Gr.eat Mogul’s Unkle, was a
T able, w ith other nineteen pieces to make a Cabinet, all nataurl StoneJ o f d
colours, reprefenting the fhapes o f feveral Birds and Flowers The work was
made at Florence, and coft two thoufand one hundred^ and fifty L ivr .
A oerfedt R u b y Ring, which coft one thoufand and three hundred Liv ■
To^the great Treafirrer, I prefented a Watch in a Gold Cafe, fet m th fmall
Emraulds, at feven hundred and twenty Livres. y 0-’
X2
6o T r a v e f in I n d ia .

To the Porters o f the Kings Treafury, and thofe that deliver out the M o­
ney out of the Treafury, two hundred Roupies, at three hundred Livres.
To the Eunuch o f the Great Begum, Sifter to Aurengz^eb, a Watch in a painted
Cafe, which coft two hundred and fixty Livres.
All thefe Prefents which I made, as well to the Great Mogul, as to Cha-
Efi-K an, Giafer-Kan, his Majellies Uncles j as alfo the Great Treafurer, to the
Stewards o f the Houles o f the Kan’s, and thole that brought me twice the
Calaat, or Habit o f Honour from the King, and as many times from the Be­
gum his Sifter, and once from Giafar ICan ; all thefe Prefents, I fay, came to *
twenty-three thouland one hundred fourfcore and feven Livres. So true it is,
that they who have any bufinels to do at the Court o f the great Princes, as
well in Turky as in Perjla and in the Indies, mult not pretend to do any thing
in reference to their affairs, till they have their Prefents, and thofe very con-
liderable, ready. Befides, that his Purfe mull be continually open to divers
Officers o f meaner reputation, who may be able to ferve him. I did not
mention in m y firft Volume the Prelent which I made to him that brought
me the Calaat from the King o f Perjla, to whom I gave two hundred Crowns.

C H A P . IX .

The Road from Surat to Golconday

I Have made feveral journeys to Golcondan, and have taken leveral Roads $
lometimes by Sea embarking from Ormus for Malifpata 5 fometimes Pet­
ting out from Agra, but moil often from Surat, which is the chiefeft land­
ing-place o f Indolfian. But in this Chapter I will only Ipeak o f the common
Road from Surat to Golcondaj wherein I comprehend that o f Agra-, which
Road comes in at Dultabat, as I fhall afterwards relate, making mention only
o f two journeys which I made in 1645-, and 1 6 5 2 , for fear o f tiring the
Reader.
I departed from Surat in the year 16 4 5 , upon the nineteenth o f January,
and came to ly at Cambari, coftes 3
From Cambari to Barnoli, coftes 9
From Barnoli to Beara, coftes 12
From Beara to Navapour, coftes 16
This is the place where grows the belt Rice in the World, that lmells like
Musk.
From Navapour to Rinkula, coftes 18
From Rinkula to Pipslnar, coftes 8
From Pipelnar to? Nim p our , coftes 17
From Nimpour to Patane, coftes 14
From Patane to Secoura, coftes 14 l
From Secoura to Baquela, coftes 10
From Baquela to Difcon, coftes ' ro
From Difcon to Dultabat, coftes 10
Dultabat is one o f the belt Fortrefles in the Kingdoms o f the G reat Mogul,
upon a Mountain every w ay fteep } the only way to it being fo narrow, that
but oneH orle, or one Camel can go at a time. This C ity is at the foot o f
the Mountain, very well wall’d. And this place o f fuch importance, which /
the Mogul’s loft, when the'Kings o f Golconda and KifapoUr revolted from them,
was retaken in the Reign o f fehan-guire, b y a fubtle ftratagem. Sultan Courom,
Who was afterwards call’d Cha-jeban, commanded in Decan the Army of the
King his Father 5 and Aft-Kan, Father in L a w to Cha-Ejl-Kan, who was one
o f the Generals, gave the Prince fome fort o f language which fo highly offend­
ed him, that immediately fending for one o f his Papouche’s, or Shoo’ s, he
caus’d him to have fix blows given him upon the Bonnet, which among the
Indians
 Indians is the higheft indignity can be put upon a man, after which he is no more
to appear in the Prince’ s prefence. This was done by confent between the Prince
, and the G eneral, to deceive the World, more efpecially any Spies which the King
o f Vtfapour m ight have in the Prince's Army. The report o f Afi-K ans difgrace
was imm ediately fpread abroad : and he himfelf flying for Sanftuajy to the Kin«
o f Fifapour, who had not cunning enough to difcern the impofture, was welcom’d
b y the fame King, and affur’d o f his protection. Aft-ICan feeing himfelf fo w ell-
receiv’d , begg’d leave o f the King, that he might retire with ten or twelve o f
his W omen, and as ijan y o f his Servants, into the Fortrefs o f D ultabat, which
\ w as granted. He enter’d the Town with eight or ten Camels, the tw o CajavAs
V or L itte rs on each fide o f the Camel being clofe fhut, to keep the Women from
, being feen. But inftead o f Women, he had put into every Cajava two Souldiers,
1 all bold and refolv’d men, as w ere alfo every one o f the fuppos’d Eunuchs that
led the Camels : fo that he had no great difficulty to cut the Garrifon in pieces,
not being upon their guard; and to make himfelf Matter o f the place, which has *
been ever fince under the Power o f the Great Mogul. There are in the place a
great number <5f excellent Pieces o f Cannon, and the Cannoniers are generally
£nglijh or Hollanders. True it is, that there is one little Mountain higher than
the F o rtrefs; but there is hardly any w ay to it, but through the fame Fo"-- cr
There was a Dutch-Engineer, who after he had forv'd the King fifteen or fixtee:
years, deflr’d leave to be gone, and the Holland-Company it folf, that had recom­
mended him to the Service, did all they could to obtain i t ; but they could ne­
ver procure i t ; becaufe he was an excellent Cannonier, and very skilful in making
Fire-w orks. The Raja fejfeing, who is the moft Potent o f all the Idolatrous
Princes o f India, and who was moft powerfully Inftrumental to put the Crown
upon Aureng-z.eb’s Head, was fent as Generaliffimo o f the Arm y o f this King,
againft the Raja Seva-gi; and paffing by the Fortrefs o f Dultabat, this Dutch-
Cannonier Went to wait upon him, all the Cannoniers o f the Arm y being Fran-
gmsDas well as he. The Hollander laying hold o f this opportunity, told the Raja,
that i f he would procure him a Licence to depart, he would fhew him a way to
get up Cannon, and to mount them upon that Mountain which commanded the
Fortrefs : for they had already wall’d it about, and put Souldiers upon it to keep
it fecure. The Raja pleas’d with his propofal, alfur’d him that he would procure
him the King’s Licence, i f he perform’d what he had propos’d. Thereupon the
Hollander undertaking and accomplifhing his defign, the Raja was as good as his
w ord, and obtain’d o f the King to difmifs the i% c£-G annonier: who came to
Surat when I was there, about the beginning o f the year 1 6 6 7 ; whence he em­
bark’ d for Holland.
From Dultabat to Aureng-abat, coftes 4
Aureng-abat was form erly but a Village, till Aureng-z.eb made it a City, though
it be not w all’d. It grew to be thus enlarg'd, as well by reafon o f a Lake tw o
leagues about, upon which the Village is built, as for the Memorys-fake o f his
firft Wife, who is dead, by whom he had his Children, She is Interr’d toward
the end o f the Lake, upon the W eft-fide, where the King has built a Mofauee, with
. a ftately Monument, and a fair Inn. The Mofame and the Monument w ere rear’d
at a great expence, being cover’d w ith white-Marble, which is brought from La­
bor by W aggon; being a journey o f four Months. Going one time from Surat
to Golconda, I met five days journey from Aureng-abat, more than three-hunder’d
W aggons laden with this M a rb le , the leaft whereof was drawn by twelve
Oxen. «
F ro m Aureng-abat to Pipoli, coftes 5
F ro m Pipoli to Aubar, coftes 12
F ro m Aubar to Guifemner, coftes * 10
F ro m Guifemner to A fii, coftes 12
From A jii to Sarver, coftes 1£
From Sarver to Lefona, coftes 56
From Lefona to JAadour, coftes #
A t Nadour you mult crofs a R iver which runs into Ganges and pay for every
Waggon four Roupies,* befides that, you muft have a pafs from the G o ver-

nor’ From
62_______ Travels I n d ia . Part I I
From Nadour to Patonta, coftes ^
From Fat onto, to Kakeri, coftes IO
From Kakeri to Satapour, coftes IO
From Satapour to Sitanaga, coftes
From Sitanaga to Satanagar, coftes io
A t Satanagar you begin to enter upon the Territories o f the King o f Gol-
sonda.
From Satanagar to Melvari, coftes 16
From Melvari to Girballi, coftes iz
From Girballi to Golconda, coftes *
So that from Surat to Golconda there are, coftes 32 4
All this I travell’d in twenty-feven days. I made five journeys more in my
Travels in the year 1 6 5 3 . And I alfo took another Road from PipLenar, where I
arriv’d the eleventh o f March, fetting out from Surat, the fixth.
The twelfth, to Birgam.
The thirteenth, to Omberat.
The fourteenth, to Enneque-Tenque, a ftrong Fortrefs, that beats the name o f
tw o Indian Princefles. It ftands upon a Mountain fteep every w a y } there being
but one afcent to it upon the Eaft-fide. Within the enclofed compafs o f the
Walls there is a large Pond, and Ground enough to fow for the maintenance o f five
or fix-hunder’d men. Bu t the King keeps no Garrifon therein, fo that it falls to
ruine.
The fifteenth, to Geroul.
The fixteenth, to Labour, where you are to crofs a River 5 upon which, about a
Cannons-fhot from the fording place, are to be feen feveral large PagGds o f the
Countrey, whither great numbers o f Pilgrims repair every day.
The feventeenth, to Aureng-ubad.
The eighteenth, to Pipelgan, or Fiply.
The nineteenth, to Ember.
The Twentieth, to Deogan.
The one and twentieth, to Patris.
The two and twentieth, to Bargan.
The three and twentieth, to Palam.
The four and twentieth, to Candear, a large Fortrefs, but upon one fide com­
manded by an high Mountain.
The five and twentieth, to Gargan.
The fix and and twentieth, to Nagooni.
The feven and twentieth, to Indove.
The eight and twentieth, to Indelvai.
The nine and twentieth, to Regivali. Between thefe two laft places there is a
little R iver which feparates the Territories o f the Great Mogul, from the Dom i­
nions o f the King o f Golconda.
The thirtieth, to Mafapkjpet.
The one and thirtietieth, to Mirel-mola-kipet.
To go from Agra to Golconda, you mult go to Brampour, according to the Road
already defcrib’d from Brampour to Dultabat, which is five or fix days journeys \
offi and from Dultabat to thofe other places before let down.
Y ou may alfo take another Road to go from Surat to Golconda; that is to fay,
through Goa and Vtfapmr * as I fhall inform you in the particular relation o f my
journey to Goa. I come now to w hat is molt worthy obfervation in the Kingdom
o f Golconda'. And to relate what happen’d in the laft Wars the King maintain’d
againft his Neighbours, during the tim e that I have known the Indies,

- \

CHAP,
 C H A P . X.
Of the Kingdom cf Golconda, and the Wars which it has maintain'd
for fome few years lafi paft.

H T H E w hole Kingdom o f Golconda, take it in general, is a good Countrey,

JL abounding in Corn, Rice, Cattel, Sheep, Poultry, and other neceflaries for
) human life. In regard there are great ftore o f Lakes in it, there is alfo great
ftore o f Fifh. Above all the reft, there is a fort o f Smelt, that has but one bone
1 in the middle, which is raoft delicious food. Nature has contributed more than
A rt, toward the making thefe Lakes, w hereof the Countrey is full ; which are
generally in places fomewhat rais'd, fo that you need do no more than make a lit­
tle Dam upon the plain-fide to keep in the water. Thefe Dams or Banks are feme-
times half a league lo n g : and after the rainy feafons are over, they open the
Sluces from time to time to let out the water into the adjacent Fields, where it
is receiv’d by divers little Channels to water particular grounds.
Bagnagar is the name o f the Metropolis o f this Kingdom ; but vulgarly it is
call’d’ Golconda, from the name o f a Fort refs, not above two leagues diftant from
ir, where the King keeps his Court. This Fortrefs is about two leagues in cir­
cuit, and by confequence requires a numerous Guard. It is as it were a Town
where the King keeps his Treafure: having left Bagnagar, ever fince it was fack’d
by the Arm y, which Aureng-z.eb brought againft it.
Eagnagar is then the C ity, which they vulgarly call Golconda; and it was foun­
ded by the Great Grandfather o f the prefent King ; upon the importunity o f one
o f his W ives, whom he paffionately lov’d, whofe name was Nagar. Before that,
it was only a place o f Pleafure, where the King had very fair Gardens, till at
length his Wife continually reprefenting to him the delicacies o f the fituation for
the building a C ity and a Palace, by reafon o f the R iver 5 he laid the foundations,
and order’d that it Ihould bear the name o f his Wife, calling it Bag-Nagar, that
is to fay, the Garden o f Nagar. This City lies in feventeen degrees o f Eleva­
tion, wanting two minutes. The Gountrey round about is a flat Countrey, only
neer the C ity are feveral Rocks, as you fee about Fontain-Bleau. A great R iver
wafhes the Walls o f the C ity upon the South-weft-fide, which, neer to Maflipa-
tan, falls into the G u lf o f Bengala. A t Bagnagar you crofs this River over a
Bride no Icfs beautiful than Pant-Nenf at Paris. The C ity is little lefs than Or-
leans well-built, and full o f windows. There are many fair large Streets, but not
being w ell-pav’d : they are dufty, as are all the Cities o f Perjia and India, which
is very offenfive in the Summer. _ , , ,
Before you come to th e B rid g , you muft pafs through a large Suburb, calld
Erenoabad about a league in length ; where live all the Merchants, the Brokers,
Handicraft-Trades, and in general, all the meaner fort o f people ; the C ity
being inhabited only by perfons o f Q uality, Officers o f the K in gs Houle,
Ministers o f Juftice, and Officers o f the Army. From ten or eleven m the
forenoon, till four or five in the evening, the Merchants, Brokers and W ork­
men come into the C ity to trade w ith the Forreign Merchants; after which time
th ey return to their own Houfes. In the Suburb are two or three fair
which ferve for Inns for the Forreigners, befides feveral Pagods in the Neigftbour-
ing-parts. Through the fame Suburb lies the way to the Fortrels ol Goi-

COf>Sofoon as you are over the Bridg, you enter into a large Street, that leads
Vou to the King’s Palace. On the right-hand are the Houfes o f feme Lords o f
the C o u r t ; and four or five Inns tw o Stories-high: wherein there are fair Halls,
and large Chambers to let in the frefh Air. At the end o f this Street there is a
large * * * * * 5 upon which ftands one o f the fldes o f the/ aIac, f 5 “ the, mi dd e
whereof there is a Balcone, wherein the King comes to fit, when he pleafes to
give Audience to the People. The great Gate o f the Palace ftands not upon this
P m u m , but upon another very neer adjoynm g; and you enter firft into a^jarg^
 Court fur rounded with Portico’s, under which lies the King’s Guards. Out o f
this Court you pafs into another, built after the fame form, encompaft with fe-
’ veral fair Apartments, the Roofs whereof are terrafs’d. Upon which, as upon
thofe where the Elephants are kept, there are very fair Gardens, wherein there
grow Trees o f that bignefs, that it is a thing o f great wonder, how thofe Arches
Ihould bear fo vaft a burthen.
About fifty years fince, they began to build a magnificent Pagod in the C ity j
which would have been the faireft in all India, had it been finilh’d. The Stones
are to be admir’d for their bignefs: And that wherein the Nich is made, which is
on that fide where they fay pheir Prayers, is an entire Rock, o f fuch a prodigious
bulk, that it Was five years, before five or fix-hunder’d men, continually employ’d, <
could hew it out o f its place.' They were ford’d alfo to rowl it along upon an En- (
gine with wheels, upon which they brought it to the Pagod ; and feveral affirm’d
to me, that there were fourteen-hunder’d Oxen to drawit. I will tell you here­
after the reafon it remains imperfect: For had it been finilh’d, in all reafon it had
excell’d all.the boldelt Structures o f Afia.
On the other fide o f the C ity, as you go to Maflipatan, there are two great
Lakes, being each about a league in compafs,'wherein there ride feveral Pinks
richly adorn’d for the King’s Pleafure ; and upon the Banks are feveral fair Houles
that belong to -the Principal Lords o f the Court.
Upon three fides o f the C ity ftands a very fair Mofyuee, wherein are the Tombs
o f the Kings o f G oleor,da : and about four in the afternoon there is a D ole « f
Bread and Pilau to all the Poor that come. I f you would lee any thing that is
rare, you mult go to view thefe Tombs upon a Feftival-day. For then from
morning till night they are hung with rich Tapeftry.
As for the Government and Policy which is obferv’d in this C it y : In the firft
place, when a Stranger comes,to the Gates, they fearch him exactly, to fee i f he
have any Salt or Tobacco about h im ; for thofe Commodities bring the King his
greateft Revenue. Sometimes a Stranger lhall wait a day or two, before he lhall
have leave to enter. For a Souldier firft gives notice to the Officer that com­
mands the Guard, and then he lends to the Deroga, to know what he lhall do.’
N ow , becaufe it many times happens that the Deroga is buly, or gone to take a
walk out o f the C ity , or elfe for that fometimes the Souldier himfelf pretends he
cannot find the Deroga , only to create himfelf more errands, to get the more M o­
ney ; a Stranger is forc’d to endure all this delay, fometimes, as I have faid before,
for a day or two.
When the King fits to do Juftice, I oblerve that he comes into the Balcone that
looks into the Piazza, and all that have bufineis Hand below, juft againft the place
where the King fits. Between the People and the Walls o f the Palace are fix’d
in the ground three rows o f Poles, about the length o f an Half-Pike, to the ends
w hereof they tye certain ropes a-crofs one upon another. N or is any perfon
Whatfoever permitted to pals beyond thofe bounds, unlefs he be call’d. This Bar,
which is never fet up, but when the King fits in Judgment, runs along the whole
bredth o f the Piazza j and juft againft the Balcone there is a Bar to open, to let
in thofe that are call’d. Then two men, that each o f them hold a Cord by the
end, extended all the bredth o f the paffage, have nothing to do but to let fall the
Cord, for any perlbn that is call’d to ftep over it. A Secretary o f State fits be-\
low under the Balcone, to receive all Petitions and when he has five or fix to­
gether, he puts them in a Bag, and then an Eunuch, who ftands in the Balcone neer
the King, lets down a firing, to which the Bag being ti’d, he draws it up, and pre-
> fents it to his Majefty.
E very Munday the chiefeft o f the Nobility m ount.the G u a rd , every one
in their turn, and are never reliev’d till at the eight days end. There are fome
o f thefe Lords that have five or fix thoufand men under their command j
and they lye encamp’d in their Tents round about the C ity. When they mount v
the Guard, every one goes from his own Habitation to the Rendevouz j hut f
When they are reliev’d, they march in good order over the Bridg, thence
through the long Street into the Piazza, where they draw up before the
Balcone. In the firft place, march ten or twelve Elephants, more or lefs, ac­
cording to the quality o f the Captain o f the Guard. There are feme o f thefe
• Elephants
 Elephants that carry Cages, which in fome fort referable the Body o f a little
Coach j there are others that have but one man to guide them, and another
in the Cage who carries a Banner.
After the Elephants, follow the Camels by tw o and two, fometimes to the
number o f thirty or forty. Every Camel carries a kind o f Packfaddle, upon
which is fallen d a little Culverine, which a certain Engineer, clad in a skin from
head to foot, and fitting upon the Crupper o f the Cam el, with a lighted Match
in his hand, dextroufly manages from one fide to another before the Balcone,
where the K in g fits.
A fter them come the Coaches, attended by the Dom eftick Servants o f the
Commander : N ext to them follow the lead-Horles, and then the Lord appears,
to w hom all this Equipage belongs, attended by ten or tw elve Curtifans, that flay
for him at the end o f the Bridg, and skip and dance before him to the Piaz.ua.
Behind him the Cavalry and Infantry march in good order : Which being a fhew,
wherein there was much o f delight and Hate, all the while I ftaid at Bagnabar,
Which was about four Months, I had the divertifement to fee them out o f m y
Lodging in the great Street every week as they march’d by.
The Souldiers wear no other Clothes than only three or four ells o f Calicut,
w ith which they cover h alf their Bodies behind and before. They wear their
hair very long, and tie it up in a knot upon the top o f the crown, like the wo­
men, who have no other Headgear than only a piece o f Linnen with three cor­
ners,’ one that comes to the middle o f the head, and the other two, which they,
tie under their chins. The Souldiers do not wear Hangers or Scimitars like the
Tertians; but broad Swords like the Switzers, as well for a thruft, as a blow,
which they hang in a Girdle. The Barrels o f their Muskets are ftronger than
ours, and much neater ; for their Iron is better, and not fo fubjed to break.
Their Cavalry carry Bows and Arrows, a Buckler and a Battel-Ax, an Headpiece
and a Jacket o f Mail, that hangs down from the Headpiece over their Shoul-

^ T h e r e are fo great a number o f common Women as well in the C ity as in the

Suburbs, and in the Fortrqfs, which is like another C ity, that there are generally
above twenty thoufand letdow n in the Deroga’s Book ; without which licence, it
is not lawful for any Woman to profefs the Trade. T hey pay no tribute to the
King ; only they are oblig’d to come, a certain number o f them, with their G o-
vernels, and their Mufick every Friday, and prefent themfelves before the Balcone.
I f the King be there, they dance before him : if he intend not to come, an Eunuch
comes into the Balcone, a n d makes them a fign to retire In the cool o f the
evening they hand at the doors o f th d r Houfes, which are for the moft part little
Huts 5 and when night comes, they fet up a Candle or a lighted Lamp for a Signal:
Then it is alfo that they open all the Shops where they fell Tan ; which is a cer­
tain drink made o f the juice o f a T ree, and is as fweet as our new Wines. They
fetch it fome five or fix leagues off, upon Horfes, that carry two earthen-Bottles o f
S T n d T ro t at a great r a te ; o f which there come every day to the C ity
above five or fix-hundefd. The King has a considerable Revenue by the Impoft
whkh he lays upon this Tori. And for that reafon he permits fo many common
Women, in rega?d it is for their fake that fo much Tan is confum d ; thofe that

n a tu re s; and fair enough in their countenances 5 only the Countrey people

l k T h ? S f t n t aKing o f Golconda bears the Name o f Abdonl-Coutov-Sha ; and I

the Reader in a few words, from whence he drew his Original In the
w ill tell the Reader in a mw w oiu , shan. Clfir, the Territories o f the
ftretch’d as far as Cape-Com onn, the other R aja’s being only his Subjects, and de­
pending upon him. This R aja and his Succeffors have been always at Wars with
them that fucceeded to Tamerlane or Temur-Leng in India ; and their Pow er was
fo great, that the laft R aja , who was at War with A kba r , brought into the Field
four Armies under as many Generals. The moft confiderable o f his Armies lay in
tliofe Provinces, which at this day are call'd the Kingdom o f Golconda ; the fecond
was quarter’d in the Provinces o f Vifapour, the third in the Province o f D ultabat,
and the fourth in the Territories o f Brampour. The R aja o f Narfingue dying without'
Children, the four Generals divided among themfolves the Countreys which they
poflefs’d with their Army,and took upon them the title o f Kings,the one o f Golcon­
da, the other o f Kifapour,the other o f Brampour,and the fourth o f D ultabat.Though
the Raja were an Idolater, neverthelefs his four Generals were M ahum etans 5 and
he o f Golconda was o f the Seft o f H aly, defcended from an Ancient Family o f the :
Turcomans,which inhabit the Country o f Hamadan in Perfta. This General,as I have
laid,-was more confiderable than any o f the reft; and fome few days after the death j
o f the R a ja, they won a famous Victory from the M o g u l; fo that he could not
hinder them from affuming their feveral Sovereignties. But after that, jehan-
G uir , the Son o f A kbar, conquer’d again the Kingdom o f Bram pour, Cha-jehan
the Son o f fehan-G uir recover’d the Kingdom o f D ultabat, and Aureng-z,eb the
Son o f Cha-jehan recover’d fome part o f the Kingdom o f Vifapour. As for the
King o f Golconda, neither Cha-jehan, nor Aureng-z.eb difturb’ d him, but let him
reft in peace, upon condition that he fhould pay to the M ogul an annual tribute o f
200000 Pagods. At prelent the greateft: R a ja on this fide Ganges is the R aja o f
Velou, whole Territories extend to Cape-Com onn, and who fucceeded to fome part
o f the Territories o f the R aja o f N arjingu e : But in regard there is no Trade in
his Countrey, and by confequence no concourfe o f ftrangers, there is little notice
taken o f him. The prefent King o f Golconda. has no Sons, but three Daughters,
who are all married.
The Eldeft Efpous’d one o f the Kinfmen o f the Grand Chek^ o f M ecca. Nor
muft we forget fome palfages that fell out before this Marriage. The C l a i m i n g
to Golconda in the habit o f a F a q u ir , , for fome Months lodg’d without the Gate
o f the Palace, dildaining to give any anfwer to leveral Courtiers, that demanded
what his bulinefs was. At length the thing being made known to the King, he
fent his chief Phyfitian, who fpoke good A r a b i c to know o f the Chek^ what he
had to requeft, and the reafon o f his coming. The Phyfitian, and fome other
Lords o f the Court that dilcours’d him alfo, finding him to be a perfon o f great
Wit and Learning, brought him to the King, who was very well fatisfi’d with his
alpedt and his prefence. But at length th€Chek declaring to him, that he came
to Efpoufe the Princefs; that propofal very much furpriz’d the Prince, and was
look’d upon by the greateft part o f the Court, as made by a perfon not well in
his wits. At firft the King only laugh’d at him. But when he found him ob-
ftinately perlevering in his demand, in-fb-much that he threaten’d the Countrey
with fome ftrange Calamity, if the Princefs were not given to him in M arriage, he
was committed to Prifon, where he lay a long time. At length the King think­
ing it more to the purpofe to fend him back into his own Countrey, caus’d him to
be fhip’d away at M ajlipatan, in a V d fel that carri’d Goods and Pilgrims to M ec­
ca, whence they travell’d by land to Mecca. About two years after the fame
Chek^ return’d again to Golconda, and order’d his affairs fo well, that he Efpous’d they
Princefs, and won an high reputation in the Kingdom, which he governs at this
day, arid is very Potent. He it was that kept the King from furrendring the For-
trefs o f Golconda,. whither he was retir’d, when Aureng-z.eb and his Son took Bag-
nabar, as I (hall tell you by and by, threatning to kill him, if he would not refolve
to hold it out, and not deliver the keys to the enemy. This bold aftion wss the
reafon- which made the King love him ever afterwards ; and that he takes his
counfel in all weigty affairs, not as he is the King’s Son-in-Law, but as he is a great
Minifter o f State, and the chiefeft perfon, next the King, in all the Court. He it ■
was that has put a flop to the finifhing the great Pagod in Bagnagar, having
threaten’d the whole Kingdom with fome great Calamity, i f they went forward
with the work. This Prince is a paffionate Lover o f all thofo that profefs the
Mathematicks, and underftands them as well. For which reafon, though he be
a M a-
 a Mahumetan, he is a great Favourer o f all the Ghriftians, who are vers’d in
that Science, as he has particularly teftifi’d to Father Ephrahim, a Capuchin,
palling through Golconda for Pegu, whither he was fent by his Superiors. He
did all he could to oblige him to ftay in the Country, and offer’d to build him
a Houfe and a Church at his own expences ; telling him, he fhould neither
■ want em ploym ent, nor H earers, in regard there were feveral Portugaefe
Chriftians, and feveral Armenians that came thither to trade. Eut Father Ephra­
im having a particular Order to go to Pegu, could not accept o f his Offer •
yet when he went to take his leave o f the Cheeky, he prefented him with a CaUat,
the moft noble that was in his Wardrobe 5 being the whole h ab it; the Cap, the
Cabay or large Veft, the Arcalou or ihort Cafl'ock, two pair o f Drawers, two
Shirts, and two Scarfs, which they wear about their necks, and over their heads to
keep o ff the heat o f the Sun. The Friar was furpriz’d at the prefent, and gave
' the Checl^to underhand, that it was not proper for him to wear it : however the
Cheeky would force him to take it, telling him he might accommodate fome o f his
Friends with it. Tw o months after Father Ephraim beftow’d the fame Prefent
upon me, being at Surat; for which I return'd him thanks.
The Check feeing he could not detain the Father, and unwilling he fhould go a
foot from Golconda to M ajlipatan , oblig’d him to take an Oxe, with tw o Men to
lead i t ; and becaufe he could not perfwade him to take alfo thirty Pagods, which
he prefented the Father withall, he commanded the two men, when they came
to M ajlipatan 3 to leave the O xe and the thirty Pagods with him, which they
did very punctually ; for otherwjfe at their return to Golconda, they had for­
feited their lives. I will finifh the Hiftory o f Father Ephraim , when I come
to the defeription o f Goa, which is the principal place that the Portngals have
in the Indies.
The fepond Daughter o f the King o f Golconda was married to Sultan M a -
humad, the eldeft Son o f Aureng^eb ; the occafion whereof was th is: M ir -
gim ola, Generaliflimo o f the King o f Golconda s A rm y, and who had been very
ferviceable to his Matter, to fettle the Crown upon his head, according to the
cuftom, left with the King as a mark o f his fidelity, both his Wife and Chil­
dren in Hoftage ; for he was fent to reduce certain Raja’s in Bengalee, that were
in Rebellion. He had feveral Daughters, but only one Son, who had a . great
train, and made a great noife at Court. The reputation and riches which M ir -
vimola had gain’d, rais’d him up feveral Enemies, who endeavour’d in his ab­
sence to ruine him, and to put him out o f the Kings favour. They pretended
that the great power o f M irgim ola was very much to be fu fpeded; that all
his defigns tended to dethrone him, and to fettle the Kingdom o f Golconda up­
on his own Son ; that it behov’d him not to ftay till the remedy were pair
cure, but to rid him felf o f an Enemy, fo much the more to be fear'd, the clofer
he kept his intentions ; and that the fhorteft and belt w ay was to poyfon him.
The King being eafily perfwaded, gave them leave and authority to a d as they
pleas’d for his fe cu rity ; but having mifs’d o f their defign for three or four
times together, Mirgimola s Son began to fmell the p lo t ; and immediately
gave advice th ereof to his Father. It is not known what inftrudions he re­
ceiv’d from his Father ; but fo foon as he had his anfwer, he went to the King,
and fpoke boldly to him, taxing him with thefervices which his Father had done
him, and that without his affiftance he had never come to the Crown. The young
Lord,naturally o f a fiery difpofition,kept on this difcourfe,fo difpleafing to the King,
till at, length his Majefty flung aw ay ; and the Lords that were prefent, fell
upon the young man, and bafely m ifusdhim . At the lame time alfo e_ tvas
arretted and committed to prifon, together with his M other and Sifters. Which
adion , as it made a great noife at Court, coming to Mirgimola s ears fo in­
cens’d him, that having an Arm y under his command, and being beiov d by the
Soldiers, he refolv’ d to make ufe o f the advantages he had, to revenge him­
fe lf for the injury done him. He was then not far from Bengala, being fent,
as I laid before, to reduce certain Raja's to obedience, whole Territories* lye
upon the Ganges; and Sultan-Sujah, Cha-jebaSs fecond Son, being then G over­
n o r o f Bengala, the General thought it his belt w ay to addrefs himfelf to
him - as being the next Prince^ with whom he might join his Forces againft
5 0 * K. 2 the
 the King o f Golconda, whom he look’d upon now no more as his Mafter, but
as one o f his moft inveterate Enemies. Thereupon he wrote to the Prince to
this effeft : That i f he would join with him, he would give him an opportu­
nity to poffefs him felf o f the whole Kingdom o f Golconda ■, and that he (hould
not neglect fo fair an opportunity to enlarge the Dominions o f the Great M o ­
gul, the fucceffion whereof might as well concern him / as any o f the reft o f
his Brothers. But the Anfwer which Sdkan-Sujah lent' him, was contrary to
his expectation j who told him, that he could not tell h o w to truft a perlon
who as he went about to betray his King, might more eafily be drawn to be­
tray a Foreign Prince, whom he had inveigl’d only for the fake o f his R e ­
venge 5 and that therefore lie fhould not rely upon him. Upon Suitan-Suj.ah’s
refufal, M irgim ola wrote to Aurengz, b, who was then in his Government o f '
Brampoure, who being not fo nice as his Brother, accepted o f the propofal that 1
was made him. Thus while M irgim ola advanc’d with his Troops toward B a g -
- nabar, Aurengz^eb haften’s toward Decan , and both Armies being join’ d, they
came to the Gates o f Bagnabar before the King was in a pofture to receive*1
them. He had only time to retreat into his Fortrefs o f Golconda, to which
A urengz.eb, after he had rifl’d the C ity o f Bagnabar, and plunder’d the Palace,
lay’d a clofe Siege. The King feeing himfelf thus vigoroufly prefs’d, fent away
to M irgim ola his Wife and Children very honourably. For there is vertue and
generofity in the Indians, as well as in the Europeans o f which I will give you
an illuftrious Example in the perfon o f the King o f Golconda. Some days after
the Enemy had befteg’d the Fortrefs, a Canoneer efpying Aurer.gz.eb upon his
Elephant, riding about to view the Fortifications o f the Caftle, told the King,
being then upon the Baftion, that i f he pleas’d he would fetch* off AurengzTb
with a Canon-fhot 3 and at the fame time was about to give fire 3 but the King
holding , his hand, told him he perceiv’d it well enough, but that it behov’ d
Kings to be better Husbands o f the Lives o f Princes. The Canoneer obey’d
the King, and inftead o f (hooting at Aurer.gz.eb, he took off the Head o f the
General o f his A rm y, who was a little before him 3 which put a ftop to the
Afiault they w ere about to have giv’n , the Arm y being in a confufion upon
his death. A bd u l-jaber-B eg, General o f the King o f Golconda’s, A rm y, lying not
far from the Camp, with a flying Arm y o f four thoufand Horfe, underftanding
the diforder o f the Enemy by reafon o f the lofs o f their General, laid hold o f
fo favourable an opportunity, gave them a defperate charge in that confufion,
and putting them to the rout, purfu’d them till night, for four or five Leagues!
Some few days before the General’s death, the King o f Golconda finding that
his provifions fail’d him in the Fortrefs, was about to have deliver’d the K eys j
but as I (aid before, M irz.a-M ahom ed , his Son-in-Law, (hatch’d them out o f
his hand, and threatn’ d to kill him, i f he perfever’d in that refolution. Which
was the reafon, that the King who lov’d him not before, had ever after the
greateft affedtion imaginable for him as long as he liv’d.
Aurengz.eb being thus conftrain’d to raife his Siege, flay'd fome days to rally
his Troops j and having receiv’d a recruit o f frelh men, return’d again to the
Siege, with new refolutions. But M irgim ola, who had (till fome kindnefs for
the King remaining in his breaft, would not permit Aurengz.eb to ufe the ut-
moft o f extrem itjV but by his wit and good management gain’d a fufpenfiop
o f Arms.
C ha-jehan, the Father o f A urengz.eb , had formerly had great kindnefles
(hew’n him by the King o f Golconda, to whom he fled, after he had loft the
Battel, together with his eldeft Brother, which he fought againft Jehan-guir
his Father, with whom he made War. The eldeft Son was taken, and fehan-
g u ir caus’d his eyes to be put out 3 but Cha-jehan being more w ary, fled, and
was entertain’d by the King o f Golconda, with whom he enter’d into a particular
and ftridt friendfhip j Cha-jehan making an Oath to his Benefactor, that he would
never wage War againft him upon any occafion whatever. M irgim ola there­
fore* knowing that it would be no difficult thing to bring tw o Kings, that w ere ' >
Friends, to an accommodation, wrought underhand with both, toward the con-
clufion o f a Peace. And he fo brought his bufinefs about, that the King o f G o l-
m ida writ a Letter firft to Cha-jehan, wherein he fubmiffively requefted him
to
 io be an Arbitrator between A urengzeb and him, promifing to fubmk wholly
to him, and to fign fuch Articles as he Ihould prdpofe. By the fame policy o f
M irgim ola, C ha-jehan was advis’d, in anfwer to the King o f Golconda’s Letter,
to propofe a M atch between his fecond Daughter and Sultan Mahomed the Son
o f Aurengz.eb, upon condition that after the death o f the King her Father, the
Son-i'n-Law fhould inherit the Kingdom o f Golconda. This propofition being
accepted, the Peace was concluded, and the Nuptials celebrated with an ex­
traordinary Magnificence. As for M irgim ola , he quitted the fervice o f the
King o f Golconda, and went with Aurengz.eb to Bram pour. Soon after Cha-jehan
made him his Prime Minifter o f State, and Generaliflimo o f his A rnfes ; and he
it was that fo potently affifted A uren gw b to get the Crown, by the defeat o f
Sultan -Sujah. For M irgim ola was a perfon o f great \fit, and no lefs underftand-
ing in M ilitary than fh State affairs. I had occafton to fpeak with him feveral
' tim e s ; and I have no lefs admir’d his juftice, than his difpatch to all people that
had to do with him ; while he gave out feveral Orders, and fign’d feveral
V Difpatches at the fame time, as i f he had but one entire bufinefs in hand.
The other Princefs o f Golconda was promis’d to Saltan Sejed, another Chek^
o f M e c c a ; and the Match Went on fo fairly, that the day was appointed for
the celebration o f the Nuptials ; but A bd ou l-J aber-Beg, General o f the Army,
w ith fix other Lords, went to th e King to divert him from his intention; and
they brought it fo to pals, that the Match Was broken off, and the Princefs was
given in Marriage to M irz.a-A bdoul-C ofing, the Kings Coufin; by whom fhe
has tw o Sons, which have wholly annull’d the Pretentions o f apt ■ gz.id’s Son;
whole Father now keeps him in Prifon, in the Fort o f Gavaleor, for having ta- ,
ken his Uncle Sultan S u ja ils part againft him. The Princels. had been given be­
fore to M irzat-A bdoul-Cofing., but for his debauchery, which render’d him little
regarded by the King. But fince his marriage he is very much reclaim’d.
N o w the King o f Golconda does not Hand in fo much fear o f the M o g u ls ;
fo r in imitation o f them, he keeps his Money in his own C ou n try, and has
already hoarded up a Treafury fufficient to maintain his Wars. Befides, he is
altogether addifled to the S e d o f H aly, fo that he will not wear a Bonnet, like
the other M ahum etans, becaule they fay H aly wore none; but another fort o f
attire for the head. Which is the reafon that the Perjians, that come into In d ia
to feek their fortune, apply themfelves rather to the King o f Golconda then to the
G reat M ogul. Such is the condition o f the King o f Hifaponr alfo, whom the
Queen, Sifter to the King o f Golconda, takes care to educate in the Se<ft o f H a ly,
which invites great numbers o f Perjians into her Service.

C H A P . X I.

The Road from Golconda to Maflipatan, al. Mafalipatan.

T R o m M aflipatan they count it an bonder’d coftes or leagues,- taking the right

-T wav. But if you go by the D iam ond-M ine, which in th ePerfian Language is
call’d Coulour, in the In dian , G a m ; they reckon it an hunder’d and twelve
leagu es: and this is the Road which I generally took. .
F rom Golconda to Tenara, coftes . . u ■ nn T
Tenara is a fweet place, where there are four very fair Houfes, to e v e ry m ie o t
w hich belongs a large Garden. One o f the four Handing upon the left-hand a ong
the H igh-w ay, is much more beautiful then any o f the other three. It is buih ot
Free-ftone two ftories high, wherein there are feveral fair Galleries, Halls, Par­
lors, and lodging-Chambers. Before the front o f the Houfe is a large four quai e
P iazza, little inferior to the Place Royale in P a ris. Upon every one o t e ot e
three fronts there is a great Portal, on each fide w h ereo f there is a fair P at or
rais’d from the earth above four or five-foot-high, and well-Arch d, where T -
v d lers o f Quality are lodg’d. On the top o f each Portal there is a ftroaS ® ”
 1after, and a little Chamber for the Ladies. When Perfons o f Quality care not to
be in their Houfes,, they fet up Tents in their Gardens; and you mult take notice
that there is no dwelling for any perfon but only in the three Houfes • for the
fourth, which is the faireft, belongs only to the Queen. When fhe is not there
however, any body may fee it, and take a walk in the Garden, which is a verv
lovely place, and well-ftor’d with water. The whole P iiu u i is encompaft with
feveral Chambers for the lodging o f poor Travellers $ who every day toward the
evening have an Alms bellow'd upon them, o f Rice, or Pulfe, which they boil
ready to their hands. But for the Idolaters that eat nothing which is provided
by other hands, they give them flower to make Bread, and a little Butter. For
when their Bread is bak’d like a broad thin Cake, they dip it in the melted-But-
ter,
From Tenant to fatenagar, colies • I2
From fatenagar to Patengi, colies I2
From Patengi to Pengeul, coftes _.
From Pengeul to N agelpar , coftes iz ,
From N a gelpa r to Lakabaron, coftes
From Lakabaron to Conl-our or G ani, o f which I lhall fpeak in m y difcourfe o f
the Mines, coftes Ir
The greateft part o f the way from Lakabaron to Conlonr, elpecially when you
come near to Conlonr, is very ro c k y ; fo that I was forc’d in fome places to take
m y Coach o ff the Carriages, which was preferitly done. I f vou meet with any
good Earth between thofe Rocks, there you lhall find C a jfia- tre e s, that bear the
bell Cajfia, and the moll laxative in all In dia. Which I found by its working w ith
m y men that eat o f it by the way.
There runs a great River by the Town o f Conlonr, which falls into the G u ff o f
Bengala neer M ajlipatan .
From Conlonr or G ani, to K a h -K a ly , coftes I2
From K a h -K a ly to Bez.ouar, coftes £
N ear to Bez.ouar you muft repafs the River o f Conlonr.
From Beaonar to V mchir, colics .
From K m chir to N ilim u r, coftes
About h alf the way between V mchir and JSlilimor, you mull crols a great
R iver upon a Float-boat o f Timber, there being no other kind o f Boat in that
place.
From N ilim o r to M ilm ol, coftes '£
Fto m M ilm o l to M ajlipatan , Coftes 4
. M ajlipatan is a great City, the Houfes w hereof are only o f Wood, built at a
diftance one from another. The place it felf, which Hands by the Sea, is famous
for nothing but the Road for Ships which belongs to it, which is the bell in the
G u lf o f Bengala ; and from hence they fet Sail for Pegu, for Siam , for Aracan,,
for Bengala, for Cochmchine, for M ecca, and for Ormns, as alfo for the Wands o f
M adagafcar, Sum atra and the M an illas'.
You mull take notice, that from Golconda to M ajlipatan , there is no travelling
by Waggons, by reafon o f the high Mountains, Lakes and Rivers that make the
Road very ftreight and impaflable. ’Tis a very difficult thing to carry a little
Coach thither ; for I was forc’d to have my own taken off the Carriages, and fo
to have it lifted out o f the bad way. The Road is every jot as bad between N
Golconda and Cape-Comorin ; a Waggon being hardly fo much as made mention o f
all the w a y ; for that there is no other way to travel, or for the carriage o f
Goods, than with Horfes and Oxen. But inftead o f Coaches, they have the con­
venience o f P a lle t s , wherein you are carried with more fpeed and more eale
than in any part o f India.

CHAP .
 C H A P . X II.

The Road front Surat to Goa, and from Goa to Golconda through
Vifapour.

< T O U m av so from Surat to Goa, partly by Land, and partly by Sea. But the
I R oad being very bad by Land, generally Travellers go by Sea, and hiring an
Mmadur, which is a Barque with Oars, they g o b y the Shear to Goa : though
fometimes the Malavares or Indian Pirats are very much to be feard all along
Tnafts as I fhall tell you in due place.
> Surat to Goa, is not Reckon’d by Cofies, but by Gos, one o f which
makes four o f our common Leagues,
? Froni Surat to Daman, gos ^
From Daman to Bajfain, gos
From Bajfain to Chaoul, gos . *
From Chaoul to Dabout, gos ‘ .
From Daboul to Rejapour, goS Q
From Rejapour to Mingrcla, gos
From Mingrela to Goa, gos

The great"danger which you rim along the Coaft, is the hazard of falling into
the hands o f the M alvarts, who are violent Mnbnmnmt, and very cruel to the
r h ,£ s H aw a bare-foot -Friar who had been taken by
iu
d
rm
a
C
S Friar to Z his ranfom the looner. they put to that kind o f torture t
rkrhr arm was fhorter by one h alf then his left, and fo it was with one leg. The
cfm ain s do no give above fix Crowns to every Souldier for the whole fix months
Captains ao 1 u g c . T i „ n rv,P Souldiers may return home, and it
t T O W n V w S have then,

em up prefently, , raji together in Squadrons o f ten or fifteen

lo o , fometimes ayo me^ ^ caring a rufh for the great Guns. They come
Barques to attack a g r o f P o t s o f Artificial Fire
board and board f o f i K l d e ^ be d l . ^ q ^ appli’d, they will prefently do
upon the deck, th ,, nur Seamen knowing the cuftom o f thefe Pirats,
i S ^ ^ * e S e tt le s , and fiU the deck with

WT £ ° i f t dS p a b ! ^ ^ n l S T w i S 1 l S r ! c S . coming from Bantam to S »-

An Eng ijh \ > Sauadron o f thefe Malvares, confifting o f 2 j or 3
Who came board and board, and vigoroufly attack’d him.
o f thefe Barques. wirhftand their firft Fury, put fire to feme Bu.r
The Captain feeing he could not n\ ^ bcr of the Pirats into
rels o f Powder, and blowing ^ * ^ ' £ 5 “boarded the Ship
the Sea. Neverthelefs. * e « f t w ere n o . t h m g d * me„ ■
a fecond time. The Enghjh Captain lee in g t i t enter fo
tw o Shallops, and haying behind in ® ; C a ^ “h* S d ,0 all the reft o f
fudddnly, he fet fire to a Train which he bad laid, tnat rcacn a his own
the Powder, and at the fame time > « P 'n| “ “ ,h j • lcapt im0 the Sea
men. to the mean tim e the Ship being aha fire ^ * 7 ^ ^ forty E M ,
alfo But for all this, the two Shallops, w n erem tn em then
w ere taken by the reft o f the th
re
iv
a
Mt at were ^ “ “ ' “
l breakfaft with the E m l f P r e f e r , Mn when he ^
from Captain Clark,W t ™ ' tZ
n
Lie King all along the Pirats Coaft. The Pt , haTebecn !n great dan-
the hands o f thofe Scoundrels, know g Vunderid Women had loft their
get o f their lives, by reafon that above tw elve Wnder R tag
Husbands, in the two times that the Ship had been nr a. n o fbuy
 found a means to appeafe them, promifing to each o f them that had loft their
Husbands two Piafiersfeve ry Piafier being four {hillings a piece, which came to
above two thouland four hundred Crowns,befides four thoufand,,which w ere to be
paid for the Ranfom o f the Captain and the other Sea-men, immediately the
Prefident lent the Money, and I law them at their return, fome in health, o -
thers.in violent Feavers. The Malavares are a People fo fuperftitious, that
they never touch any thing that is foul or foyl’d, with- their Right Hands, but only
with the L e ft, the Nails o f which Fingers they let grow , and ufe inftead o f
Com bs, for they wear their Hair long like the Women, tying it about their
Heads in wreaths, aud' binding it with a Linnen cloath with three corners.
Since I have mention’d Daman, I will tell you in a few words how that
C ity was befieg’d by Aureng-Zeb the prelent G reat Mogul. Some are o f
opinion that Elephants do great matters in W ar; which may be fometimes
true, but not alwaws ; for very often inftead o f doing mifchief to the Enemy,
they turn upon thofe that lead them, and rout their own party as Aureng-
Zeb found by experience, at the Siege o f this City. He was twenty days be- •
fore Daman, and refolv’d at length to Storm it upon a Sunday, believing that
the Chriftians were like the Jew s and would not defend it upon that day. He
that commanded the Place was an old Souldier, who had lerv’d in France,
- and had three Sons with him. In the Town w ere eight hundred Gentlemen,
and other ftout Souldiers, who came from all parts to. fignalize their valour
at that Siege. For though the Mogul had in his Army above forty thou­
fand men, he could not hinder relief from being put into Daman by Sea, in
regard that he wanted Ships. The Sunday that the Prince intended to Storm ,
the Governour o f Daman, as had been order’d at the Councd o f War, caus’d
Mals to be laid prefently after Midnight,and then made a Sally with all his Cavalry
and fome part o f his Infantrv, who were to fall on upon that quarter which was
guarded by two hundred Elephants. Among thofe Elephants they flung a great
number o f Fire-works which fo affrighted them in the dark o f the Night,
that knowing not whither they went*, nor being to be rul’d by their G o-
vernours, they turn’d upon the Befiegers with fo much fury, that in left than
two or three hours half the Army o f Aurettg-Zeb was cut in pieces, and
in three days the Siege was rais’d ; nor would the Prince after that, have any
more to do with the Chriftians.
I made two Voiages to Goa. the one at the beginning o f the year 1 6 4 1 .
the lecond at the beginning o f the year 16 4 8 . The firft time I flay’d but
five days, and return’d by Land to Surat. From Goa I went to B ichclly, which
is upon the main Land, thence to Fifapour, thence to Golconda, thence to Au­
reng-abat, and fo to Surat. I could have gone to Surat without paffing through
Golconda, but my bufinefs led me that way.
From Goa to Fifapour, coftes. 8y
Which takes up generally eight days journey.
From Fifapour to Golconda, coftes. 10 0
Which I travel’d in nine days.
From Golconda to Aureng-abat, the Stages are not fo well order’d, being
fometimes fixteen, fometime twenty five, lometimes twenty Leagues afunder.
From Aureng-abat to Surat takes up fometimes tw elve, fometimes fifteen,
fometimes fixteen days journey.
Fifapour is a great fcambling C it y , wherein there is nothing rem arkable,
neither as to the publick Edifices, nor as to Trade. The Kings Palace is jj vaft
one but ill built 5 and the accefs to it is very dangerous, in regard there are
abundance o f Crocodiles that lie in the Water which encomjpafs it. The King
o f Fifapour has three gogd ports in his Dominions, Rejapour, Daboult, and Cra-
paten. The laft is the olft o f all, where the Sea beats upon the foot o f the
Mountain, and you have fourteen or fifteen Fathom W ater near the Land. Upon
the top. o f the "Mountain there is a Fort, with a Spring o f Water in it. Cra-
paten is not above five days journey from Goa to the N orth. And Rabaque,
where the King o f Fifapour fels his Pepper, is as far diftant from it to the
Eaft. The King o f Fifapour and the King o f Golconda have been formerly tri­
butary to the G reat Mogul-, but now they are abfolute o f themfelves.
 This Kingdom was for fome time difquieted by the revolt o f N air-j’eva-gi, Cap­
tain o f the King of 'Vifapours G uards; A fter which the young Ssva-gi his Son *
conceiv’d fo deadly a hatred againft the King, that he made himfelf the head
o f certain Banditi, and as he was both wife and liberal, he got together fo
many Horfe and Foot, as made a compleat A rm y;- the Souldiers flocking to
to him from all parts, for the reputation o f his Liberality. And he was juft
about to have led them to adion, when the King o f Vifapour happen’d to
dye without Children, fo that w ith little or no trouble he got polleflion o f
one part o f the Coaft o f M alavar; taking Reyapour, Rafigar, Crapaten, Da-
bouli and other places. They report that upon his demolifhing the fortifica­
tions o f Rajigar, he found vaft Treafcres, which help’d him to pay his Soul­
diers, w ho were alwayes well paid. Some years before the death o f the
■ K ing, the Queen perceiving no probability o f having any Children, adopted a
little Boy, upon whom fhe beftow’d all her affe&ions, and caufed him to be
brought up in the D odrine o f Halys S e d . The King upon his Death-bed
caus’d this Adopted Son to be Proclaim’d K in g ; but Seva-gi having a nume­
rous Army continu’d the War, and much difturb’d the Regency o f the Queen.
A t length he made the firft propofitions for P eace; which was concluded
upon conditions, that he fhould quietly enjoy the Territories; which he had
fubdu’d, that he fhould become Tributary to the King, and pay him the half
o f all his Revenue. The young King being thus fix’d in his Throne, the Queen
Regent went in Pilgrimage to Mecca ; and I was at Ifpahan, when fhe pafs’d
through the Town in her return home.
When I m adem y fecond Yoiage to Goa, I embark’d in a Dutch VeiTel call’d
the M aejluck, which carry’d me to Mingrela, where I landed the eleventh
day o f < fanuaryi 16 4 8 .
Mingrela is a large Town, extended half a League in length upon the Sea,
in the Territories o f Vifapour. It is one o f the belt Roads in all India, where
the Hollanders take in frefh Provifions every time they fail to block up Goa,
as alfo when they are bound upon Trade for many other parts o f India. For
at Mingrela there is both excellent Water, and excellent Rice. This Town
is alio very famous for Cardamoms, which the Eaftern people efteem the beft o f
Spices, not being to be had in any other Countrey ; which makes that fort
o f Com modity very fcarce and v ery dear. There is alfo made great ftore of
courfe Calecuts, that are fpent in the C oun trey; befides great quantities o f
courfe Matting, that ferves to pack up goods. So that both in refpedt of
Trade, as alfo for the furnifhing their Ships with frefh Provifions, the Hol­
landers have a Factory in the Town. F o r , as I faid before, not only all Vef-
fels that come from Batavia, from japon, from B engala, Ceylan, and other
places, and thofe that are bound for Surat, the Red Sea, Ormus, Balfara, &c,
both going and coming, come to an Anchor in the Road o f Mmgrela, but
alfo while the Hollanders are at Wars with the Portugqls, and lye before the
Bar of Goa, w here they have .ufually eight or ten Sail, they fend their fmali
Barks to Mingrela for Provifions. For the Hollanders lye eight Months in a
year before the mouth o f the P ort o f Goa, fo that there can nothing pafs in­
to Goa by Sea all that time. Y o u mull alfo take notice, that the Bar o f Goa
is alfo ftopt up fome part o f the year by the Sands which the South and
Weft-winds that precede the great Rains, caft u p ; fo that there is not a-
b o ve a foot, or a foot and a h a lf Water for very final! Boats. But when the
g re a t’ Rains come, the W ater fw ells and carrying aw ay the Sands, open? a
palfage for the great Veflels,
 C H A P . X III.

Observations upon the prefent State o f the City o f Goa.

G O A lies in i f Degrees, 32 minutes o f Latitude,in an Ifland fix or (even leagues

about, upon the River o f Mandoua, ten leagues from the mouth o f the
R iver. ^ The Ifland abounds in Corn and Rice, and bears leveral forts o f Fruit, as
Mangds, AnanAs, Adam s-Figs, and Coed’s. But moft certainly a Pippin is Var
beyond all thole fruits. All thole that have feen Europe and Afia, agree with
me, that the Port o f Goa, the Port o f Corifiantinople, and the Port o f Toulon, are
three o f the faireft Ports o f all our vaft Continent. The C ity is v ery large, and
the Walls are o f good Stone. The Houles are for the moft part v e ry magni­
ficently built, eipecially the Fiee-Rofs Palace. There are in it a great number o f
Apartments, and in one part o f the Room s and Chambers, which are v e ry large,
hang feveral Pidures, wherein are feverally painted by themfelves, the Ships that
come from Lisbon to Goa, with thole that are bound from Goa to Lisbon., with the
name o f the Veflel, the Captain, and the number o f Guns which the Ship carries.
I f the C ity w ere not fo clofely environ’d with Hills, it would doubtlefs be better
inhabited, and the air would be much more wholfome. But thele Mountain®
keep otf the co o l winds, which is the reafon that the heats are very exceflive.
B e e f and Pork is the ordinary diet o f the Inhabitants o f Goa. They have good
ftore o f Poultry, and fome few Pidgeons; but though Goa be very neer the Sea,
Filh is very fcarce. They have abundance o f all forts o f Sweet-m eats, and feed upon
them very much. r
Before the Hollanders had brought down the power o f the Portugal/ in India/
there was nothing to be leen at Goa, but Magnificence and R ich e s: but the Dutch
having every where got their Trade out o f their hands, they have loft their
Iprings o f Gold andSi'lver,and areffallen from their former Iplendor.In m y firft V oy­
age to Goa I met with people o f falhion, that had above two-thouland Crowns
Revenue j-a t m y lecond Voyage the fame perlons came privately to me in th e
evening, to beg an Alms j yet abating nothing, for all that, o f their inherent pride
and haughtinels : N ay, their Women will come in Fdllekf s to the door, and ftay
while a Boy, that attends them, has brought you a Complement from his Miftrels,
Then ufually you lend them what you pleale, or carry it your lelf, i f you have a
curioiity to lee their faces 5 which rarely can be done, becaule they cover them -
felves with a veil from head to foot.’ M oreover, i f you go your le lf to prefent
them your Charity, they will give you a little note, containing a recommendation
o f fome religious Perfon, who fignifies what fubftantial perfons they have been,
and how they came to fall to decay. Sometimes, i f the perfon be handlom, (he
is defir’d to walk in $ and to fake a Collation, which lafts moft commonly till the
next day. Had not thePortugals lo many Fortreffes to keep upon the Land j or had,
not, out o f their contempt o f the Hollander they negte&ed their affairs, th ey could
never have been reduc’d to fo low a condition.
The Portuguefes have no fooner made the Cape of Good-Hope, but they are all
Fidalgues or Gentlemen 3 and add the Title o f Dom to the fingle name o f Pedro
o r jeronimo, which they receiv’d at their Baptifin: From whence they aretcall’d
the Fidalgues or Gentlemen o f the Cape of Good-Hope. As they change their
N am es, they alfo change their N ature j for it may be truly laid, that the Indian-
Portugals are the moft revengeful perlons, and the moft jealous o f their Wives o f
any perlons in the World. And when the leaft fulpition creeps into their noddles,
th ey rid themlelves o f them either b y Poifon or D agger. I f they have an ene­
m y,they never pardon him;but if he be a perfon o f that courage that they dare not
grapple with him,theifMafters have attending upon them a fort o f blackSIaves,that
i f they command them to kill any one, the Slaves will do it with a blind obe­
dience ; which they do either with a D agger, or a Piftol, or elle by knocking the
party on the head with a dub, which they alw ays carry, about the length o f an
Half-Pike, I f it happen that they ftay too long before they can meet with an op®
portunity
 portunity ere they can dilpatch their mifehief; and that they cannot conveniently
meet the perlbn to be murther’d, in the Fields or in the City, they are no fuch
Saints, but they w ill kill him at the very Altar, while he is at his devotions ; o f
which I faw tw o fatal prelidents, the one at Goa, the other at Daman. At Daman
rhree o r four o f thefe black Slaves perceiving fome perfons whom they were to
murther, at Mafs in the Church, dilcharg’d their Muskets at them through the
windows, never confidering what other m ifehief they might do to any other
perfons, againft whom they had no quarrel or delign. The fame thing happen’d
at Goa, where feven men were kill’d clofe by the A ltar, and the Prieft that faid
Mafs w as dangeroufly wounded at the fame time. N or do their Courts o f Juftice
take any cognizance o f thefe crimes, for generally the guilty perfons are the
chiefeft o f the Countrey. As for their Suits o f L aw , there is no end o f them,
\ fo r they are manag’d by the Canarins, who are N atives o f the Countrey, whole
bu fin elsit is to follow the Law 5 the molt fubtil and crafty fort o f people in the
W orld.
T o return to the ancient Pow er o f the Portugal in India, molt certain it is,
that i f the Hollanders had never come among them, you fhould not have feen a
bit o f Iron in any Portugal Merchant’s Houfe ; but all GoW or Silver ; for they
needed no more than to make three or four Voyages to Japan, the Philippin, or
Molucca Illands, or to China to enrich themfelves ; gaining at their return above
five or fix for one upon rich Merchandizes. The. very Souldiers as well as the
Captains and Governors enrich’d themfelves by Trade. There was not any per-
fbn, unlefs it be the Governor, who was not a Trader ; or if he does Trade, it is
in' another man’s name, for he has Revenue' enough without it. Formerly it was
one o f the faireft employments o f the World to be Vice-Roy o f Goa : and there
are but few Monarchs, that have Governments at their dilpofal, which are equal
in value to fome o f thole which depend upon this Vice-Roy. The chief Command
is that o f Mozambique for three years. In thole three years the Governor gets
above four or five-hunder’d-thouland Crowns, and lometimes more, i f in all that
tim e they receive no lolfes from the Cafres. Thele Cafres are people that bring
G old for the Commodities which they carry a w a y ; and i f any one o f them
happen to dye, going or coming, whatever you trufted them withall is loft with­
out redemption. The Governour o f Mozambique trades alfo with the N egro’ s
that inhabit all along the Coaft o f M e lin d a ; and thev ordinarily pay for the
goods they buv, either in Elephants Teeth, or Ambergreele. When I was laft
in Goa, the Governour o f Mozambique, who return d to Goa after he had been
three years in his Command, had by him only in Ambergreele, two hundred
thouland Crowns, not , reckoning his Gold, and his Elephants Teeth, which a-
mounted to a far larger fum. . ,
The lecond Government was that o f Malaca, by reafon o f the Cuftom which
was there to be paid. For it is a Streight through which all Veliels that are
bound from Goa, for Japan, China, Cochmchina, Java, MacaJJar, the Phillippin
Illands, and many other places, mull o f neceility pafs They may fail another
way by the Ifland o f Sumatra, toward the Weft, and fo through the Streight
o f Sonde, or elfe leave the Ifland o f Java to the N orth * but when the Ships
return to Goa, they mult Ihew a difeharge from the Cuftom-Houfe o f Malaca,
which obliges them to go that w ay. ’ . - , „ rVl- g
The third Government is that o f Ormus, by reafon o f the great Trade which
is the^e, and the Cuftom .which all Ships are to pay that are °n n in
out o f the Perfian Golf. The Governour o f Ormus exafted great io n s trom
thole that went to the Ifland o f Bakren to filh for P e a rly for i f they did not
take a Licence from h im ,'he would link their Veliels. The Perjlms a p
exaft this Cuftom from the EngUJh, who have a fmall lhare m that 1 fade, as
I have related in my Perfan Voyages. But though they are fevere enough to the
Merchants, their Cuftoms amount to nothing near fo much as what the Fortu-
attefes made o f it. The Hollanders are in the fame condition at Ma.aca, not re­
ceiving hardly fufficient to pay their Garrifon which they keep there. .
The* fourth Government is that o f ,Mofcate, the revenue whereof vvas very
great For all Veffels that are bound from India, from the Ferfianooif horn
the Red Sea, and from the Coaft o f Melinda, muft come under the Point
 M ufcate, where they generally take in frefh Water. I f there be any Ships that
would not come to an Anchor there, the Governour lent for his Cuftom, which
was four in the hundred j and i f they refus’d, the Governour had his Galeaffes
ready to fink them.
The fifth Government was that o f the Ifland o f Ceyland, to which belong’d
'all thofe places which the Portugals had, as well upon the Coaft o f M a la v a r,
the G o lf o f Bengda , and other parts o f India ; the worft o f which employ­
ments was worth ten thouland Clowns p er ann.
Befides thefe five great Governments, which were at the dilpofal o f the Vice-
R o y , he had abundance of'other Offices in his Gift, as well in Goa, as in other
parts o f India. The very day that he makes his Entry into Goa, the Captain
o f his Guards gets above four thoufand Crowns. The three Offices o f Engi­
neer Major, Vifiter o f the Forts, and chief Mafter o f the Ordinance, yeilded
every year twenty thoufand Pardo’ s ; every Pardo being worth twenty-feven
Sous o f our Money. The Portuguefes were then all very ric h ; the N obility
by realon o f their Governments and Commands, the Merchants by their Trade,
till the Englijh and Hollanders cut them Ihort. When they had Ormus, they
would not let any Merchant pals by Sea into In dia ; fo that they were forc’d
to go by Land through Candahar. Then, when the T m kj, Perfian, A rabian ,
M uscovite, Polonian, and other Merchants arriv’d at Bander-A bajfy , they join’ d-
together, and deputed four o f the molt experienc’d perfons among them, to
view all the forts o f Commodities, and to underftand their quality and price.
After they have made their report,they agree upon their price,and fetch away their
goods, which are difiributed to every one proportibnably according to the number
o f Merchants .It is alfo the cuftom ofall A f a , that there is nothing fold,but a Bro­
ker has a hand in the Bargain! They make good the Money to thole that
have fold, and receive it from them that b u y ; and there are' fome forts o f
Commodities upon which there is due to them for Brokage, fometimes one in
!n the Hundred, fometime one and a half, and two.
At that time the Portuguefes made great profit, without any Id s. For the
Vice-Roy took care to preferve them againft the Pyrats. Who alfoon as the
Rains are over, and that it was feafonable to put to Sea, always lent a fuffi-
cient convoy to guard the Merchants twenty-five or thirty Leagues to Sea,
the M a lva resm x. daring to ftir above fifteen or twenty. The Captains o f the
Galiots, and the Soldiers drive a firoll Trade alfo in their Voyages, and in re­
gard they pay no cufiom, they gain enough to maintain themfelves handfome-
ly all the time they lye in Garrifon, which is during the Rains. There was alfo
care taken for the advancement o f the Soldiery; for every Soldier that came
from Portugal, after nine years fervice, had fome Command either by Sea or
Land beftow’d upon h im ; and i f he would not accept o f it, they gave him
leave to Trade as a Merchant. So that i f there happen’d to be any perfon o f
underftanding among them, he could not fail to raile his fortune, having all
the credit he could defire. For there were people enough that being glad to
let out their M oney, would venture with Him at Cent, per Cent, upon his re­
turn. I f the Velfel be loft, they that lend their M oney, lofe either their
Money or their g o o d s; but i f the Ship come fafe home, o f one they make
three or four. ■
The Natives o f the C ou n try, call’d Canarins, are not permitted to bear
any Offices among the Portuguefes, but only in reference to the L aw , that is
to lay, either as Advocates, or Sollicitors, or Scriveners ; for they keep them
very much under. I f one o f thefe Canarins or Blacks, happen to ftrike a White
o r European , there is no pardon for him, but he mult have his hand cut off.
A s well the Spaniards as Fortuguefes, make ufe o f them as Receivers, and to fol­
low their bufinds. And in the M a n illa ’ s, or Philippin Iflands, there are fome
o f thefe Blacks fo rich, that many o f them have offer’ d twenty thouland Croi-
. fats to the Vice-Roy, for liberty to w ear Hofe and Shoo’s, which they are not
permitted to wear. Some o f thefe Blacks have thirty Slaves attending upon
them, very richly habited ; but only they go barefoot. And had the Portugals
permitted them to fet out Ships o f their own, and to have chofen Captains ana
other O fficers at their own pleafure, the Fortuguefes would not have made fuch
larges
 large, at leafi not fo eafie Conquefts in the Indies. Thefe Blacks are very
couragious and good Soldiers, and feveral o f the Religious Orders have afliir’d
'me, that they w ill learn more in fix months in one o f their Colledges, than
th e Portugal Children in a year, whatever Science you put them to ; which is
the reafon that the Portugals keep them lb low . The natural Inhabitants o f
the Country about Goa are Idolaters, and worfhip feveral forts o f Idols, which
they fay are the Refemblance o f feveral that have done good works, to whom
they ought to give praife by adoring their Portraitures. There are many o f
thefe Idolaters who worlhip Apes. And therefore in the Ifland o f Salfete , there
was a P aged, where the Idolaters kept in a Cheft, like a Tomb, the Bones and
Nails o f an Ape, which they faid had been mighty lerviceable to tlieir Anceftorx,
by bringing news and intelligence to them, when any hoftile Princes profecuted
‘them ; for which purpofe they would fometimes fwim through the very Sea
it felf. The Indians come from feveral parts in procelfion, and make Offerings
to this Pagod. But the C lergy o f Goa, efpecially the Inquifitors, caus’d the
Tom b one day to be taken away, and brought it to Goa, where it remain’d a
good while, by reafon o f the difference which it made between the Ecclefiafiicks
. and the people. For the Idolaters offering a great fum o f Money to have their
Reliques again, the people w ere willing to have reftor’d th em ; faying, that the
M oney would do well upon any occafion o f War, or elle to ■ relieve the poor.
But the Clergy w ere o f a contrary opinion, and maintain’d that fuch a piece o f
Idolatry was not to be endur’d upon any account whatfoever. At length the
Arch-Bifhop and the Inquifitors, by their own Authority, took away the Tomb,
and fending it in a Veffel twenty Leagues out to Sea, caus’ d it to be thrown
to the bottom o f the Ocean. They thought to have burn’d it, but the Idola­
ters would have rak’ d up the AfheS again, which would have been but a new food
to their Superftitioii.
There are in Goa abundance o f C lergy-m en; for befides the Arch-Bifhop and
his C lergy, there are Dominicans, A u fiin -F ry a rs, Francifcans, Barefoot Carme­
lites, fcjm ts, and Capuchins, with two Religious Houfes, w hereof the A u ft in -
F ry ars are Directors or Governours. The Religious Carm elites, that came laft,
are the belt feated; for though they are fomewhat at a diftance from the heart
o f the C ity, yet they have the advantage o f a fine Air, and the molt healthy
Situation in all Goa. It Hands upon a rifing ground, free to the refrefhment o f
the W in d ; and it is very well built, with two Galleries one over the other.
The A u fiin -F ry a rs, who w ere the firft that came to Goa, were indifferently well
feated, at the foot o f a little rifing ground, their Church alfo Handing upon a
rifing ground, with a fair Piaz.z,a before i t ; but when they.had built their Ha­
bitation, the fefu its defir’d them to fell that rifing ground, which was then a
void place, under pretence o f making a Garden in it for the recreation o f their
Scholars. But after they had purchas’d it , they built a moH flately College
upon the fame ground, which quite Hops and choaks up the A u fiin -F rya rs Co­
vent, fo that they have no Air at all. There happen’d feveral ConteHs . about
this bufinefs, but at length the fefu its got the better. The fefuites at Goa,
are known by the name o f P a u lifis ; by reafon that their great Church is dedi­
cated to St. Paul. N or do they w ear Hats or Corner-Caps, as in Europe, but
only a certain Bonnet, relembling the Skull o f a Hat without the B rim s; loroe-
w hat like the Bonnets which the Grand Segnors Slaves wear ,■ o f which I have
given yo u a defeription in m y relation o f the Seraglio. They have five Houfes
in G oa, the College o f St. P au l, the Seminary, the Profeffors Houle, the N o ­
v ic ia te , and the Good Jefus. T he paintings in this Houfe are admirable pieces
Of Workmanfhip. In the year 16 6 3 the College was burnt by an accident
Which happen’d in the night, fo that it coH them near fixty thoufand Crowns
• / ' to rebuild it. . , .
The Hofpital o f Goa was form erly the moH famous m atl In dia, to r in re­
gard the Revenues thereof were very great, the fick perfons were very care­
fully look’d after. But fince the change o f the Governours, there is but very
bad accom m odation; and feveral o f the Europeans that have been put iri, have
never come forth again, but in their Coffins. However, they have lately found
Out a w ay to lave fome by frequent Bloodletting; They let Blood fometimes, g
 as occafion requires, thirty or forty tiroes, even as often as any ill-blood comes
forth j as they did by me one time that I was at Surat. Butter and flelh is very
dangerous to them that are lick, and many times cofts them their lives. Form erly
they made feveral forts o f well-tafied diet for thofe that reco verd : N ow they
ferve the Patient only with young Beef-broth, and a difh o f Rice. Ufually the
poorer fort that recover their health, complain o f drowth, and call for water.
But they that look after them, being only Blacks, or Mongrels, a fort o f covetous
and pittilels people, will not give them a drop, unlefs they put Money in their
hands ; and to colour their wickednefs, they give it them by Health, pretending
what they do to be againft the Phyfitian’s order. As for Sweet-meats and Pre-
ferves, there is no want o f them ; but they are not a diet which contributes over­
much to the reftoring o f decaid ftrength, efpecially in thole hot Countreys, where
the body requires rather cooling and refrefhing nourilhment. . .. ^
I have forgot one thing in reference to their more frequent blood-lettings than
among us Europeans. Which is, that to bring their colour again, and to reftore
them to p erfed health, they order the Patient to drink for twelve days together -
three glaffes o f Cow’s U rine; one in the. morning, another at noon, and another at
night. But in regard it is a very naufeous fort o f drink, the Patient fwallows as
little as he can, how defirous loever he may be o f his health. They learnt this
rem edy from the Idolaters o f the Countrey; and whether the Patient will take
it or no, they never let him itir out o f the Hofpital, till the twelve days are ex­
pir'd wherein he ought to drink it.

CHAP. X 1Y .

What the Author did,' during h is flay at G o a , the la jl time he went

thither in the y e a r 16 4 8 .

T W O days before I departed from M ingrela for Goa, I wrote to M anfiem

St. A m ant, who was Engineer, to lend me a Man o f War, for fear o f the
M a lva res which are upon .the Coaft, which he immediately did. I parted from
M in grela the 2 0 tb o f January 16 4 8 , and arriv’d at Goa the And in regard
fit Was late, I ftaid till the next morning before I went to-vifit the V ice-Roy , Don
E h ilp de M afcar.gnas, who had formerly been Governor o f Ceylan. He made
me very welcome, and during the two months that I tarri’d at Goa, he fent to me
a Gentleman five or fix times, who brought me ftill to the Powder-Houle, which
was without the City, where he often us’d to be. For he took great delight in
levelling Guns, wherein he ask’ d my advice, efteeming. very much a Piftol v e ry
curiouflv and richly inlaid, which I prefented him at my arrival. This Piftol th e1
French-Confvd at Aleppo gave me, the fellow o f it being unhappily loft: for elfe
the Pair had been prefented by the French-Nation to the Bajha, who might then
haveboafted him felf the Matter o f the faireft and belt- made pair o f Piftols in all
A fia . The V ice-Roy admits no perfon whatever, no not his Children tq fit at his
Table. But there is a little partition in the Dining-room, where there is a Cloath
laid for the Principal Officers, as is ufual in the Courts o f the German-V.xmces.
The next day I went to wait upon the Arch-Bilhop, and the next dav after I de-
figrs’d to have vifited the Inqiiifitor j but I underftood by one o f his Gentlemen
that he was bufy, writing into T o rtu gal; there being tw o Ships ready to weigh
Anchor, that only ftaid for his dilpatches. After the Ships were fet fail, he lent
the lame Gentleman to tell me that he expected me at the Inquifition-Hosle,
about tw o or three in the afternoon. I fail’d not to go thither at the time pre­
fix’d When I came, a Page brought me into a large Hall, where after I had walk’d
a quarter o f an hour, an Officer came and carri’d me into the Chamber where the
Inquifitor was. After I had paft through tw o Galleries, and feme Chambers, I en­
ter’d into a little Chamber where the Inquifitor lat at the end o f a great Table
like a Billiard-Table, which, as well; as the Chairs and Stools in the Chamber, was
cover’d
 cover’d with green Cl oath, fuch as is carri’d out o f England. He told me I was
welcome, and after a Complement or tw o, he ask’d me what Religion I was o f? \
I anfwer’d Him, o f the Proteftant Religion. He ask’d me then, if my Father and
Mother w ere o f the fame Religion ; and after I had fatisfi’d him that they w ere
fojHe told me again I was welcome,calling out at the fame time for fome other per-
ftns to enter. Thereupon, the Hangings being held up, there came in ten or twelve
perfons out o f another room hard-by. The firft o f the Train w ere two Aufiin-
Friars, follow ’d by tw o Dominicans, tw o barefoot-Carmelites, and fome other o f
the C le rg y ; whom the Inquifitor told who I was, and allur’d them I had brought
fio prohibited Books j for indeed, knowing their orders, I had left hiy Bible at
Mingrela. W e difcours’d about tw o hours o f feveral things, but particularly o f
m y T ravels s the whole Company' teftifying their defire to hear me make fome
Repetitions. Three days after the Inquifitor fent fo rm e to dine with, him at a fair
H o u le , about h alf a league from the C ity, which belongs to the Barefoot-
Carm elites. It is one o f the lovelieft Structures in all the Indies 5 and I will tel 1you.
in fjiort how the Carmelites tam e by it. There was a Gentleman in Goa, whofe
F ath er and Grandfather had got great Eftates by Merchandizing j and he it was
th at built this Houle, which might well have pall for a molt noble Palace. He
had no mind td M arry, but being altogether addicted to his devotions, he very
much frequented the Auftin-Prhrs, to whom he Ihew’d him felf fo affectionate,
that he made his Will, wherein he gave them all his Eftate, provided they would
bury him on the right-fide o f the High-Altar, where he intended a fumptuous
Monument. N o w according to the common report, this Gentleman was a Leaped
Which fome jealous perfons endeavour’d to make the World believe, feeing he had
given aw ay all his Eftate to the Aufiin-Fv'ms. Thereupon they told him that
the ground on the right-hand o f the High-Altar was a place only fit for a Vice-
Roy ; and that a leaprous perfon was not to be laid th e re ; which was the opinion
o f the generality, o f the people, and o f a good part o f the Auftin-W&vs them-
lelves. Thereupon fome o f the Fathers o f the Covent coming to fpeak w ith the
Gentleman,on purpofe to perfwade him to ch’oofe fome other place in the Church,
h e was lb offended at the propblal, that he never went more to the Aaftin-Frhrs,
but alw ays went to perform his devotions among the Carmelites, who receiv’d
him with open arms, and accepted the conditions which the other had refus’d.
Nor did he live long after he had interefted him felf with that Order 5 fo that the
Carm elites Having magnificently buri’d him, enjoy’d all his Eftate, with this lame
Houle, where w e w ere fplendidly entertain’d with Mufick all the time o f Din­
ner.
1 fta id a t Goa from the twenty-firft o f January till the eleventh o f March, de­
parting thence that v ery day in the evening, after I had taken leave o f the Vice-
Roy. I begg’d leave alio o f the Vice-Roy for a FVmr/?-Gentleman, whole name
was Belloy, to go along with m e : which was granted m e ; but through the impru­
dence o f that Gentleman, who did not tell me the reafon o f his, coming to ,Goa, he
had like to have been taken from m e again,and it was an Oven-jay,that w e had not
been both carri’d to the Inquifitiqn. This Gentleman had left the place o f his
N ativity to travel over Holland, w here having run him felf in debt, and finding no
perfon that would lend him any M oney, he refolv’d to go for India. Thereupon
h e lifted him lelf as a private Souldier upon the accompt o f the Holland-Com­
pany ; and came to Batavia at the lam e time that the Hollanders made War againft
th e Pyrtuguez.es in Ceylan. Being arriv’d, they lent him aw ay among the recruits
w hich w ere fent into that Ifland j and the Holland-General feeing fuch a re­
inforcement o f flout men commanded by a F ra ^ -C a p ta in , w hole name was
S t. Am ant, a perfon o f great courage and experience 5 he refblv’d to befiege N e­
gombe, a confiderable Fort in the Ifland o f Ceylan. T h ey made two aflaults,
w herein the French-men behav’d themfelves valiantly, efpecially Sfc Amant, and
fohn de Rofe, who w ere both wounded. The General o f the Dutch, feeing them
to be tw o fuch men o f courage, made a promife that i f Negombe were taken,
one o f them tw o fhould be Governor. The place w as taken, and the General
kept his w ord with St. A m ant: but the N ew s being carri’d to Batavia, a young
Gentleman o f kin to the General, and but new ly arriv’d out o f Holland, obtain d
to be Governor o f Negombe3 to the prejudice o f St, Amant5 and came with an.
 order from the Council at Batavia to difplace him. St. Amant incens’d at fuch
ill-ufage, inveigles to his Party a matter o f fifteen or twenty, molt part French-
Souldiers, among whom were Alonfieur Belloy, Marefis, and John de Rofe, and re­
volts to the Fortugiiez.es. The Fortugals encourag’d by the reinforcement o f fuch
a ftout, though fmall number o f men, ftorm’d Negombe again, and took it at the
fecond aifault. At that time was Don Philip de Mafcaregnas Governor o f Ceylan,
and all the places belonging to it, under the jurildidtion o f the Portugals. He
liv’d alfo at the City o f Colombo } and then it was, that having receiv’d Letters
from Goa that the Vice-Roy was dead, and that the Council and all the Nobility
defir’d him to come and fucceed in his place, he refolv’d to fee St. Amant and his
Companions before his departure, to the end he might beftow upon them fome
proper reward. So foon as he faw them, he was refolv’d to take them along with
him to Goa. Whether it were that he thought he might have better opportu-'
nines to advance them there ; or that he thought it convenient to have ftout men
about him, by reafon o f the Malavare's who lay in wait for him with forty Vef-
fels, whereas he had but twenty-two. But they were no fooner come to make
Capc-Comorin, when the winds rofe, and fuch a tempeft follow’d, that the Veffels
were difperced, and many o f them unfortunately call away. They that were in
Don Philips’s Veflel did all they could to get to the fhoar, but feeing they could
not, and that the Ship was ready to fplit, St. Amant and his fix other Compani­
ons threw themfelves into the Sea with cords and pieces o f planks, and fo beftirr’d
themfelves, that they made a fhift not only to fave themfelves, but Don Philip
alio. Hereupon Don Philip coming to Goa, after he had made his entrance, gave
to S c Amant the Command o f Grand Matter o f the Artillery, and Superintendent-
General over all the Forts which the Portuguez.es had in India. He marri’d him
alfo to a young Virgin, with whom he had twenty-thoufand Crowns, whofe Fa­
ther was an Englifh- man, who had quitted the Company, and marri’d a Natural
Daughter o f one o f the Vice-Roy’s o f Goa. As for John de Rofe, he defir’d leave
o f the Vice-Roy to return to Colombo, where, by his favour, he marri’d a young
Widow, h alf Native, half P ortugm.ee,b y whom he had a fair fortune. Marefis
the Vice-Roy made Captain o f his Guards, the moft confiderable Command in all
his Court, being o b lige to Marefis for his life, .who' was the perlon that bore him -
upon his fhoulders to lave him from drowning. Du Belloy defir’d .leave that he
might go to Macao, w h M i was granted him. For he underftood that the greateft
part o f the Portugal-Gen ^ retir’d to that place, after they bad got Eftates b y
Merchandizing j that theyW ere very courteous to ftrangers, and withal extremely
, addided to play, which was Da Bellofs chief delight. He liv’d two years at
Macao, very much to his content; for when he wanted Money, the Gentry lent
i t him freely. One day he had won above fix-thoufand Crow ns; but going to
play again, he was fo unfortunate as to lofe it all, befides a good fum o f Money
which his friends had lent him. Being thus at a lofs, and finding that no-body
would lend, him any more Money, he began to fwear againft a Picture that hung
in the room, which was the Portraiture o f fome Papiftical Saint; faying in his
paflion, that it was an ufual thing with them that plaid, that if they faw a Saints
Pidure hang in their fight, it made them lofe; and that if that Picture had not
been there, he had certainly won. Immediately the Inquifitor was inform’ d o f
this, (for in every C ity in India under the JurifdicYion o f the Portuguez.es there is
one. However his power is lim ited; having no other authority than to feize
the perfon o f him that laps or a d s any thing againft their Religion, to hear the
Witneffes, and to fend the Offender w ith the examinations to Goa in the firft Ship
which is bound th ith er: w here the Inquifitor-General has an abfolute Power
either to abfolve him, or to put him to death. Thereupon Du Belloy was put a-
bpard a finall Veffel o f ten or tw elve Guns loaded with Irons; with a ftrid charge
tp the Captain to keep him fafe, and fom e threats that he ftiould be anfwerable
for him i f he efcap’d. But fo foon as the Ship was out at Sea, the Captain, who
was o f a noble difpofition, and knew Du Belloy to be o f a good Family, took off
his Irons, and made him fit at his own Table j giving him alfo Linnen, and other
convenient Apparel neceffary for the Voyage, which was to coi tinue forty days.
They put into Goa the nineteenth o f February 1 6 4 9 ; ar . the Ship was no fooner
come into Harbour, bat Sr;, Amant came a-board by the Governor’s order, as well
t@
 , • . ?— : ----------- --— .— :------------- — . __________ .____________ _______________

I j O o I v X. d v c ls 111 I ndia. 81
to receive his Letters, as to hear what news in China. But his furprize was
very great, to fee Belloy in that condition, and that the Captain would not let
him go, before he had furrefider’d him up into the hands o f the Inquifitor. N e -
verthelefs, in regard that St. A m ant was a perfon o f great credit, he obtain’d
o f the Captain, that Belloy fhould go along with him into the City. As for Belloy
he immediately and for the nonce fhifted him felf into his old Cloaths, which
were all to tatters and full o f Vermin ; and St. A m an t, who knew there was
no dallying with the Inquifition, took that feafon to prelent him. to the Inqui­
fitor 5 w ho feeing a gentleman in fuch a fad condition, had fome compaffion upon
him, and allow’d him the whole C ity for his Prifon ;. on- condition he fhould
furrender his body upon demand, when he underftood what was inform’d againft
him. In the interim St. Am ant brings Du Belloy to rily Lodging juft as I was
going to v ift the Arch-Bifhop o f M ira , whom I formerly knew at Conftanti-
" nof ie , when he was Prior o f the Francifcans at G alata. I defir’d them to ftay
a while and to dine with me, which they did ; after which I proffer’ d my Houfe
and Table to D u Belloy ,. who liv’d with me ; and for whom I alfo bought two
new Suits o f Apparel, and Linnen convenient. However, all the while that I
ftay’d at Goa, which, was ten or twelve days, I could not perfwade the Sieur
D u B A Ly to put on thofe new Cloaths, not knowing the reafon, though he
prom is’d me every day. But being upon my departure, I told him I was go­
ing to ral e leave o f the V ic e -R o y ; whereupon he defir’d me to procure leave
ft h o ; which I did. We departed toward evening in the lame Veffel
wherein I came, and about midnight the Sieur Belloy began to fhift himfelf, and
when he had done he threw his old raggs into the Sea, fwearing againft the In-
quifition like a mad man; I underftanding nothing all this while'' o f the bufinefs.
When I heard him fwear in that manner, I told him we were not yet out o f
the Bortugals hands; neither were he and I with five or fix Servants, able to
defend our felves againft forty Sea-men that belong’ d to the Ship. I ask’d him
then, w hy he fwore fo heartily againft the Inquifition ;. he reply’d, that he would
tell me all the cireumftances o f the ftory ; which he did when we came to M in -
g rela , which was about eight a Clock in the morning. When we landed we
met certain H ollanders with the Commander, who were eating Oyffets and
drinking Sack upon the Shoar. Immediately they ask’d me who that perfon was
with me. I told them it was a Gentleman who attending the French Ambaffa-
dor into Portugal, had taken Shipping there for In d ia , together with four or five
more whom he had left at Goa ; but that neither the fcituafion o f the place,
nor the humour o f the Portugals pleafing him, he had defir’d my affiftance in
his return for Europe. Three or four days after, I bought him an Oxe to carry
him to S u ra t ; and I gave him a Servant to affift him, together with a Letter
to Father Zenon, a Capuchin, wherein I defir’ d him to fpeak to my Broker to
pay him ten Crowns a month for his fubfiftence, and to delire o f the Englifh
Prefident to embark him for Europe with the firft opportunity. But it fell out
contrary to m y intentions ; for Father Zenon earn'd him back again along with
him to Goa, where he had fome bufinefs to do for Father Ephraim his Com ­
panion ; o f whom I fhall fpeak in the next Chapter. Father Zenon without
doubt believ’d, that D u Belloy making his appearance to the Inquifition, and
defiring his pardon, might have eafily obtain’d it. ’Tis verv true he did obtain
it, but it was after he had been two years in the Inquifition, from which he
was not difeharg’d but with a Sulphur’d Shirt, with a St. A ndrew s Crofs upon
his Stomack. There was w ith him another Gentleman, call’d L ew d de B a r upon
the Seine, who was us’d in the fame manner; and they always put them to ac­
company thofe who were put to death. The Sieur D u Belloy did very ill to
return to Goa, and worfe to appear afterwards again at M m g d a , where the
H o lla n ders , who underftanding he had formerly revolted out o f their fer-
vice, by the intelligence they receiv’d from their Commander at Surat, feiz’cf
his perfon, and fent him away in a Ship that was going for B atavia. Thd^ pre­
tended that they fent him to the General o f the Company, to do with him as
he fhould think fitting. But I am in part affur’ d, that as foon as the Veffel was
out at Sea, they put the poor Gentleman into a Sack, and threw him into the
Sea. This was the end p f the Sieur Du Belloy.
*M As
 As for Sieur des M a r efts, he was a Gentleman, bom in the D aupbinate, near
to Loriol, who having kill’d -his Adver/ary in a Duel, fled into Poland, where
he fo far figrializ’ d himfelf, that he won the efteem and affetftion o f the General
e f the Poloman Arm y. At that time the Grand Seignior kept in the Prifon o f
the Seven T ow ers at Conftantinople, two Noble Poloniums; whereupon the Po-
lonian General obferving the courage and addrefe o f this D es M ar efts, who was
a daring Fellow , and a good Engineer befides, made a propolal to him, to go to
Conftantinople, and to endeavour, i f he could by any means in the world, to
let thole Princes at liberty. D es M a refts willingly accep t’d the employment,
and without doubt he had fucceeded in his defign, had he not been difcovered
b y fbme Turks, who accus'd him for having been too circumfpedt in viewing
the feven Towers, feeing him with a Chalk Pencil in his hand, ready to take
the draught thereof, which feem’d to tend to no good defign. This had been
enough to have ruin’d the Gentleman, had not Monfieur de Cefy the French
Ambaffadour ftifl’ d the further examination o f the bufinefs by fome prefent;
which in T u rk j is the moft fovereign-remedy upon all accidents o f danger ; telling
the T fte r, that he was only a French Gentleman that travel’d for his pleafure, and
one that was going for Perfta with the firft opportunity. However it was not
M a refts defign at that time to go very far, for he intended to have return’d into
Poland, fo fbon as he had us’ d his utmoft endeavours to fet the Princes at liberty ;
but for his own fafety it behov’d him to give it out that he was gone to Perfta j.
and at length he was conftrain’d to go thither indeed. As for the Grand Seigniory
he had refolv’d never to fet the two Noblemen at liberty. Put at length they
w ere fo fortunate as to gain the love o f a young Turk,, who was the Son o f th e
Captain o f the Seven T o w e rs; with whom the Father ufually trufted the K e y s
to open and fhut the Gates o f the Prifon. The night appointed for their flight,
he made as i f he had fhut fome doors, the Padlocks whereof he left all open.
- . But he durft not do fo by the two firft Gates, near one o f which the Captain
w ith a itrong Guard lay, for fear o f being difcover’ d. The young man, who
had entirely devoted himfelf to ferve the Princes, having forefeen this diffi­
culty before, had bethought himfelf o f Rope-Ladders to get over the two
W alls; to which purpofe it was neceffary to have a correfpondence within and
without. Finding therefore that becaufe the utmoft o f feverity was not us’d
toward thofe Princes, they had the liberty to receive feveral Difhes o f M eat
from the French Ambafladors Kitchin, the Clerk o f the Kitchin was made o f the
plot, who thereupon lent them in feveral Cords in Patties, whereof they made
Ladders. The bufinefs fucceeded fo well, that the efcape was made, and the
young Turk, fled with the Polonian Lords into Poland, where he turn’d Chriftian,
and receiv’d ample rewards both in Employments and Money. The fame gra­
titude proportionably was obferv’d toward thofe who had contributed toward
the liberty o f the Princes, iyho amply acknowledg’d the fervices which they
had receiv’d from every one o f them.
In the mean time the Sieur Des M arefts arrives at Iftpahan, and addreffing
himfelf to the Capuchin Fryars, they brought him to my Lodging, where he
had the freedom o f my T a b le , and a Chamber. He ftaid fome time at Iftpa­
han, during which he got acquainted with the Englijh and Hollanders, who had
a great efteem for him, finding him to be a perfon o f merit. But it happen’d
one day, that his curiofity putting him upon a bold attempt, had like to have
been the ruine o f him and all the Franks in Iftpahan. Near the Inn where we
lodg’d there was a large Bath, where the men and women by turns take cheir
times to come and bath th em ftlves; and where the Queen o f Vifapour, during
her flay at Iftpahan, as fhe return’d home, to M ecca, delighted to go and prattle
with the French mens wives. The Sieur Des M arefts having a paffionate de­
fire to fee what the women did. fatisfi’ d his curiofity, by means o f a cranny in
the Arch o f the Vault, which he had obferv’d when he went thither ; for having
found <out a w ay without fide to get up to that Arch, through a blind hole that
was next to the Inn where we lay, the Arch being flat, as I have deferib’d them
in my relations o f Perfta, and the Seraglio, he laid him felf upon his belly, and
faw through the cranny what he fo much long’d to behold. He was at this fport
fome ten or tw elve tim e s; and not being able to contain himfelf, he told me
one
 one day what he had done. I bid him have a care o f going there any more,
for fear o f ruining him felf and all the French men in the City. But he contrary
to my advice went thither two or three times after that, till at length he was dil-
cover’d bv one o f the women o f the Bath that took care o f the Linnen, and
dry them* w ith o u t, upon Perches as high as the top o f the Arch, to which
they get up by a little Ladder. The woman feeing a man lying all along upon
his belly feiz’d upon his Hat, and began to cry out. But Marefis, to get him­
fe lf out o f the mire, and to hinder the woman from making more noife, put
tw o Tomans into her hand. When he return’d to the Inn, I perceiv’d him to look
as i f he had been fear’d, and conjecturing that fome ill accident had befail’n
him I prefs’d him to confefs what was the matter.' He was loath at firft, but
at length he confefs’d how he had been difeover’d by a woman, and how he had
hop’d her mouth with money. Thereupon I told him, that there was a neceffity
l for him to fly, for that the danger was far greater than he imagin’d. The Dutch
' Prefident alfo, to whom I thought it convenient to tell what hadpafs’d, was o f
the fame opinion ; upon which w e gave him a Mule, and as much money as was
neceffarv for him, ordering him to go to Bander, and thence by Sea to Surat,
I save him a L etter o f Recommendation to the Englijh Prefident, who was my
Friend • whom I alfo defir’ d to let him have two hundred Crowns, if he had oc-
r-lion for them. I w rote very much in his commendation; and mentiond the
nroffer which the Dutch Prefident at Ifpahan had made him, to fend him with
T errors to the General, who would not fail to employ him according to his
m erit For indeed at that time that the Hollanders had War with the Ponuguefes
t cekan any perfon o f wit and courage, like the Sieur Des M a r e fis was very
acceptable to them. Which made them very earned with him to take an em-
ployment among them ; and to that end, they cards’d him, and prefented him
v erv nobly during his ftay at Ifpahan. But he told them, that not b e in g o f their
Religion, he was unwilling to ferve them againft the Ponuguefes. which was
the only reafon that hinder’d him from accepting the offers which I had made
him Thefe particulars I wrote in his behalf to the Englijh Prefident at Surat j
fn that the Sieur Des Marefis being defirous to go to- boa to ferve the Porm-
L the Prefident wrote in his behalf to the V ice-Roy by whom he was very
much belov’d relating to him, befides, what the Hollanders had proffer d him,
rhar his recommendation might be the more acceptable. Thereupon the \ ice-
R o l m aS^hTm very welconie ; and upon the Sieur Marefis defire to.be em-
X ’ d in c S in the Portugal Arm y, he fent him away with the firft oppor-
P V with b e tte rs o f Recommendation to Don Thtlip de Mafcaregnas, w ho
Z and all thofe places th V belong’d to it under
the inrifdidion o f the Ponuguefes. It happen d three days after, tnat they loft
the ;unldiction or g ji the g-eur Marefis was one o f thofe that
rccaW d^m oft wounds, and won moft honour in the Affaults. He it was; chat

- dy d within three or belov’ d But he left his Eftate to a Prieft, with

R o y , by whom d ft S ^ n condition that he fhould
whom had eontracffe a par i 1 ^ had jent him . which how-

w h e n the was about to make t. e “lao

rsnd p u
u
violent ^ 7 W “ k„“ t o t Vw herer they were. At length they fell into a Bay,.
3 “ b " l v e ”al Inhabitants, and as foon as they camerto * ^ * * 1
beheld the Ihore cover'd wit!rnaen,
amazement to fee white people, inderftand'one another, but by figns. But
mifehief w a s , that they pou ^ Tobacco, Bisket, and Water, the next
after the -Portugals hadlg f Quantity o f young Oftriches, and other
day the people brought them a grea q ^ ^ Fowl ^
Fowl that feem’d to referable large G ede, but fo fat, that they had very little
lean. The Feathers o f thofe Birds were very lovely, and thofe upon the belly
proper for Beds. One o f the Portttguefe Mariners fold me a large Cufhion ftufft
with thofe Feathers, and related to me what had happen’d to them in that
Bay, where they flay’ d feven and twenty days. They gave thofe Cafres one
thing or other every foot, as Knives, Axes, falfe Coral, and falfe Pearls, out
o f hopes to have difcover’d fome Trade, and particularly whether they had
any G o ld ; for they obforv’d that fome o f them wore pieces o f Gold in their
E a r s ; fome beaten thin upon one fide, and others like the Nails o f a Lock.
T hey brought two o f the people to Goa 5 and I law one o f them that wore
feveral o f thofe pieces o f Gold in leveral parts o f each Ear. The Mariner
told me, that there were fome o f their women that wore o f thofe pieces o f
Gold under their Chins, and in their Noftrils. Eight or nine days after the .
Portugals arriv’d in that Bay, thofe Cafres brought them little pieces o f A m -/
bergreele, fome Gold, but very little 5 fome Elephants teeth, but very final! j
fome Oftriches, and other Birds, fome Venifon 5 but for Fifh, there was abun­
dance. The Portugals endeavour’d all they could by figns to know where they
found the Ambergreefe, for it was very good. The V ice-Roy fhew’d me a
a piece that weigh’d not above half.an Ounce, but he allur’d me withall, that
he had never feen lo good. They alfo labour’d to dilcover where they had
the Gold. After the Elephants teeth they made no great enquiry, feeing a great
number o f Elephants that came to drink at a River that threw it fe lf into the
Bay. At length after they had flay’d three weeks,the Portugals. finding it impoflible
for them to difoover any thing m o re , becaufe they underftood not one ano­
ther, refolv’d to let fail with the firft wind. And becaufe they had alw ays
fome o f thefe Cafres aboard, in regard they were very libera] o f their Tobacco,
Bisket, and ftrong Water, they thought good to bring two o f them along in
the V e lfe l; in hopes that they might learn the Portttguefe Language, or that
there might fome Child be found out that might underftand what they laid.
The Mariners told me, that when they fet fail,, after the Cafres law that they
had carri’d two o f their people a w a v , who perhaps w ere no inconfiderable
perfons, they tore their Hair, ftruck their Breafts as i f they had been frantick,
and fet up a molt horrible yelling and howling. When they were brought to Goa ,
they could never be brought to learn any thing o f the Portugal Language. So that
they could gettout o f them nothing o f that further difeovery at which they
aim’d, o f a Country from whence they only brought away two pound o f G old,
three pound o f Ambergreefe, 'and thirty-five or forty Elephants teeth. One o f
the Cafres liv’d but fix months, the other fifteen $ but both languifh’d and pin’d
to death for g rie f to be fo trapann’d.
From Goa I pafs’d to M'ngrela, where there fell out an accident not to be
forgotten. An Idolater dving, and the Fire being ready prepar’d for the burn­
ing o f the Body, his Wife who had no Children, by the permiflion o f the
Governour, came to the Fire, and flood among the Priefts arid her Kindred,
to be burnt with the Body -of her deceas'd Husband. As they were taking
three turns, according to cuftom, about the place where the Fire was kindl’d,
there fell o f a fudden fo violent a Shower, that the Priefts willing to get out
o f the rain, thruft the Woman all along into the Fire. But the Show er was
fo vehement, and endur’d fo long a while, that the Fire was quench’d, and the
Woman was not burn’d. About midnight {he rofe, and went and knock’d at
the door o f one o f her Kinfinens Houfes, where Father Zenon and manyf Hol­
landers faw her, looking fo gbaftly and grimly, that it was enough to have
{car’d th em ; however the pain that fhe endur’d did not fo far terrifie her, but
that three days after accompany’d b y her Kindred, fhe went and was bum’d
according to her firft intention,

CHAP,
 Ch ap. xv.
The Story of Father Ephraim, and how he was put into the Inquifitiok
at Goa by a furprifal.

H E Chek^i who had marri’ d the Eldeft o f the Princefles o f Golconda, not be™
T in? able to perfwade Father E f hraim to ftay at Bagnabar, where he promis’d
to build him an Houfe and a Church, gave him an Ox and tw o Men to carry him
to M ajlipatan, where he ftaid to embark for Pegu, according to the order o f his
^Superiors. But finding no Veflfel ready to fet fail,the Englijh drew him to M adref-
,-Jpatan,w here they have a Fort call’d St.Georg^and a general Fa& ory for every thing
that concerns the Countreys o f Golconda, Pegu and Bengala. They over-perfw a-
ded him that he might reap a fairer Harveft in this place, than in any other part
o f the Indies; to which end they prefently built him a very neat Houle, and a .
Church. But in the conclufion, the Englijh fought not lb much the intereft o f
Father Ephraim , as their own. For M adrefpatan is but h alf a. league from St,
Thomas, a Sea-Town upon the Coaft o f Cormandel, indifferently well-built, as for­
m erly belonging to the Ponugals. In that place there was a very great Trade,
elpecially for Calicuts, and a very great number o f Merchants and Workmen liv’d
there, the greateft part w h ereof defir’d to inhabit at M adrefpatan with the Eng-
UJh, but that there was no place for them to exercife their Religion in that place.
But when the Englijh had built a Church, and perfwaded Father Ephraim to ftay,
many o f the Yortuguez.es quitted St. Thomas, by reafon o f the frequent Preaching
o f Father Ephraim , and his great care as well o f the N atives as o f the Porta-
gals. Father Ephraim was born at A uxerre, the Brother o f Monfie, r Chateau de
Boy 's, Counfellar o f the Parliament o f P a ris ; who was very happy in learning
Languages, fo that in a little time he Ipoke Englijh and Portuguez.^ perfedly well.
But now the C lergy o f St. Thomas-Church feeing Father Ephraim in fo high a re­
putation, and that he drew the greateft part o f their Congregation to M adrefpa-
tan, w ere fo enrag’d againft Kim, that they refolv’d to ruine him. And thus they
laid their plot. The Englijh and Portagmz.es being neer-neighbours, could nd*
choofe but have feveral quarrels one among another, and ftill Father Ephraim
was appli’d to for the compofing their differences. N ow one day it happen’d, that
the Portuguez.es quarrel I’ d on purpofe with Come Englijh Mariners that w ere in
St. Thom as-KoA, and the Englijh, came by the worft. The Englifh Prefidtnt re­
v iv in g to have fatisfaftion for the injury, a War broke out between the two N a­
tions : which had ruin’d all the Trade o f that Countrey, had not the Merchants
on both fides been v e ry diligent to bring things to an accommodation: not knott­
ing any thing o f the wicked contrivance o f particular perfons againlt Father
Ephraim But all the interpofition o f the Merchants avail’d nothing: the Friar
muft be concern’d in the affair, he muff be the Mediator to aft between party
and party, which he readily accepted. But he was no fooner enter d into St. I ho­
mos, but he was feiz’d by ten or tw elve Officers o f the Inquifition, who ffiipp d
him away in a Frigat that was bound at the fame time for Goa. They fetter d ana
manacl’d him, and kept him two and twenty days at Sea before they would let
him-once put his foot a-fhoar : though the beft part o f the Manners ay
e v e ry might. When they came to Goa, they ftaid till night before they wou
Fath er Ephraim , to carry him to the Inquifition-Huufe, For they w ere afraid,
left i f they ffiould land him in the day, the people ffiould know o f it, and rile in
the refcue o f a perlon, who was in an high veneration over all India, m e news
was prefently fpread abroad in all parts, that Father Ephraim was in the
tion, which very much amaz’ d all the French-men. But he that was molt fur-
priz’d, and molt troubl’d at it was Friar Zenon, the Capuchin, who had been for­
m erly Father Ephraim 's Companion; who after he had confulted his friends, re-
folv’ d to go to Goa, though he were put into the Inquifition himleif. For when ,
a man is once {hut up there, i f any one have the boldnefs to {peak to the InquriK-
tor, or to any o f his Councel in his behalf, he is prefently put into the Inqm fium
alfo, and accounted a greater Offender than the other. N either the Arch Bifliop
nor the Vice-Roy themfelves dare interpofe ; though they are the only two per-
fons over .whom the Inquisition has no power. For if they do any thing to offend
them, they prefently write to the Inquifitor- and his Council in Portugal, and as the
King and the Inquifitor-General commands, they either proceed againft, or fend
thofe two great perfons into Portugal.
Notwithftanding all thefe confederations,, Father Zenon, taking along with him
the Sieurde la Boulay,, a decaid Gentleman, goes to Goa; where, when he arriv’d,
he.was vifited by fome friendg, who advife him to have a care not to open his
mouth in the behalf o f Father Ephraim, unlefs he intended to bear him company
in the Inqmfition. ., father Zenon feeing he could do nothing at Goa, advis’d the
Sietir de Boulay-to return to Surat : and goes himfelf directly to Madrefpatan, more
particularly to inform himfelf concerning the reafon o f Father Ephraim’s beingy '
lent away. But when he underftood how he had been betrajdat St. Thomas, he/
refolv’d to have fatisfaftion, and without acquainting the Englifh-TreMem, com­
municates his defign to the Captain that commanded in the F o r t : Who being in­
cens’d, as w ere all the Souldiers, at the injury done Father Ephraim, not only
approv’d, but alfo promis’ d Father Zenon to affift him in his defign. Thereupon
the Father lets his fpies; and undemanding.by them, that the: Governor o f St.Thc-
mas went every Saturday-morning, e arly, to a Chappel upon a Mountain half a
league from the C ity, dedicated to the Virgin-M ary, he caufes three Iron-Bars to
be fix’d in the window o f a little Chamber in the Covent, with two good locks to
the door, and as many padlocks. And having fo done, he goes to the Governor
o f the Fort, who was an Irijh-man, and a very flout perfon; who with thirty
Souldiers, and Father Zenon , iffu’d out o f the Fort about midnight, and hid them­
felves till day near the Chappel, in a part o f the Mountain, where they could not
be difcover’d. The Governor o f St. Tmmas came exactly, according to his cuftom,
a little after Sun-rifing ; and as foon as ever he alighted from his Pallequin, was
immediately furpris’ d by the Ambufcade,and earn'd to Majlipatan, into the Cham­
ber in the Covent which the Friar had provided for him. The Governor thus
furpriz’d, made great proteitations againft Father Zenon, and threaten’d him with
w hat the King would do-when he fhould come to hear what he had pradtis’d
againft the Governor o f one o f his Garrifons. To which Father Zenon faid.no
more, but only that he believ’d that he was better us’d at Madrefpatan, than Fa­
ther Ephratm was us’d at the Inqmfition at Goa, whither he had lent him : That i f
he would obtain liberty for Father Ephraim to return, he would leave him in the
fame place where they had feiz’d his perfon, with as much Juftice, as he . had to
fend Father Ephraim to Goa,. Many people came to the Englijh Prefident, de­
firing him to ufe his authority for the Governor’s liberty. But his anfwer was,
that the Governor was not in his jurifdiftion, neither could he compel Father Z e ­
non to releafe him, who had been one o f the Authors o f the .injury which- had
been done his Companion. So that he contented him felf only to define o f Fa­
ther Zenon that his Prifoner might dine at his Table in the Fort, promifing him to
return him when he fhould require his b o d y; a requeft which he eafily obtain’d,
but could not fo eafily keep his word. For the Drummer o f the Garrifon being a
French-mw, with a Merchant o f Marfetiles, call’d Roboli, then in the Fort, two
days after came to the Governor, and promis’d him, for a good reward, to pro­
cure his efcape. The agreement being made, the Drummer in the morning beat
the Reveilles, fboner than he was wont to do, and lowder, while Roboli and the Go­
vernor let themfelves down at a corner o f a Baftion that was not very high; and
w ere prefently as nimbly follow’d by the Drummer ; fo that Madrefpatan and St.
Thomas being but half a league afunder, they were all three in the Town before
their efcape was known. The whole C ity greatly rejoyc’d at the return o f their
Governor, and immediately difpatch’d aw ay a ..Barque to Goa to carry the news.
The Drumiper alfo and the Merchant fet fail at the fame time, and when they
came to Goa with Letters o f recommendation in their behalf, there was no Houfe
or Covent which did not make them Prefen ts: The Vice-Roy alfo himfelf carefs d
them extrem ely, and took them into his own Ship to have carfi’d them into Por­
tugal along with h im ; but both he and the two French-men dy’d at Sea.

Never
 N ever did any V-ice-Roy depart from Goa fo rich as Don Philippo de M afcdreg-
nas ; for he had a great parcel o f Diamonds, all large ftones, from ten Carats to
forty. He fhew’d me two whqn I was at Goa, one w hereof weigh’d f 7 Carats, the
other 67 and an h a lf; clean Stones, o f an excellent water, and cut after the In ­
dian manner. The report was that the Vice-Roy was poifon’d in the Ship, and
that it was a juft punhhment o f Heaven, for that he had poifon’d foveral others,
efpecially when he was Governor o f Cejlan. He had always moft exquifite poi-
fons b y him, to make ufe o f when his revenge requir’d i t : for which reafon, ha­
ving rais’d him felf many enemies, one mbrning he was found hung in Effigie hi
Goa ; when I was there in the year 1648.
In the mean time, the Imprjfonment o f Father Ephraim made a great noife in
. E u ro p e ; M onfim r de Chafteatt des Bois his Brother complain’d to the Portugal Em -
,*baffador, who prefently wrote to the Ring his Matter to fend a pofitivecommand
v b y the. firft Ships, that Father Ephraim Ihould be difcharg’d. The Pope alfo wrote,
declaring that he would excommunicate all the C lergy o f Goa, i f they did not fet
him at liberty. But all this fignifi’d nothing. So that Father Ephraim was be­
holding for his liberty to none but the King o f Golconda, who had a love for him*
andwould have had him have ftaid at Bagnagar. For the King was then at Wars with
the R a ja o f Carnatica, and his Army lay round about 'ht.-Thomas s. Hearing there­
fore what a bale trick the Portugaez.es had plaid with Father Ephraim , he lent Or­
ders to his General M irg im o la t0 lay liege to the Town, and put all to Fire and
Sword, unlels the Governor would make him a firm promife that Father E ph raim
ihould be fet at liberty in two months. A Copy o f this Order was font to the
Governor, which fo alarm’d the Town, that they difpatch’d away Barque after
Barque, to prefs the V ice-Roy to ufo his endeavours for the releafo o f Father
E ph raim . Thereupon he was releas’d ; but though the dopr were fet open, he
would not ftir, till all the Religious Perfons in Goa came in proceffion to fetch
him out. When he was at liberty he Ipent i y days in the Convent o f the Capu­
chins. I have heard Father Ephraim lay foveral times, that nothing troubl d him
fo much all the while o f his imprifonment, as to foe the ignorance o f the Inquifitor
and his Councel, when they put him any queftion : and that he did not believe
that any one o f them had ever read the Scripture. They laid him in the lame
Chamber, with a Alaltefe, who never fpoke two words without a defperate oath j
and took Tobacco all day, and a good part o f the night, which was very oifenfive
to Father Ephraim . .
When the Inquifitors feize upon any perfon, they fearch him prelently ; and as
for his Goods and wearing-Apparel, it is fot down in an Inventory, to be return d
him again in cafe he be acquitted ; but i f he have any Gold, Silver, or Jew els,
that is never fot down ; but is carri’d to the Inquifitor to defray the expences ol
theProcefs. They fearch’d the Reverend Father Pphraim , but found nothing in
his Cloak pockets, unlels it were a Comb., an Inkhorn, and two or three Hand­
kerchiefs. But forgetting to fearch the little Pockets which the Capuchins carry,
in their fleeves toward their armpits, they left him four or five black-.ead pens,
Thele Pencils did him a great kmdnels. For the M altefs calling for fuch a deal ol
Tobacco which is alw ays cut and ti’d up in white-paper for the profit of the
feller,who weighs both Tobacco and Paper togeth er: thefe Papers Father Ephraim
kept very charily, and with his Pencil wrote therein whatever he had t a d id at
any time : though he loft the fight o f one o f his eyes, through the ,darknels o f
the Chamber, which had but one window, half a foot fquare, and barr d wfth iron.
T h ey would never fo much as lend him a Book, or let him have an end ot Candle,
but us’ d him as bad as a certain Mifcreant that had been twice let out already w tft
his Shirt fulphur’d, and a St. A ndrew s-C rofs upon his ftomach, in company with
thofe that are lead to the Gallows, and was then come in again.
Father Ephraim having ftaid i f days in the Convent o f the capuchins Lo re
cover his ftrength after 20 months imprifonment, return’d for M adrefpatan and
paffing through Golconda went to return.his humble thanks to the King o f Gol-
colda ancl his Son-in-law, who had fo highly interefs’d rhemfelvcs for his 1^ erty.
V
The King impprtun’d him again to ftay at Bagnagar, but feeing himrefoh d
* turn to his Convent at M adrefpatan , they gave him as before, an Oxe, two Se
vants, and Money for Ms journey, % " CHAP/
 CHAP. XVI.
The Road from Goa to Maflipatan through Cochin, here describ'd in
the Tfory of the taking of that City by the Hollanders.

A Fter the Butch had difpoffeis’d the Portugals o f whatever they had in Cey-
lan, they caft their eyes upon Cochin, in the Territories whereof grows
the Ballard Cinnamon, which hinder’ d the utterance o f Ceylon Cinnamon. For
the Merchants feeing that the Hollanders kept up their Cinnamon fo dear, bought
up that o f Cochin, which they had very cheap; and that coming into requett, )
was tranfported to Gomron, and distributed there among the Merchants that '
came from Perfea, from Tort ary, from M ofcovia, from Georgia, M ingrela , and
all the places upon the black Sea. It was alfo carried away in great quantities
by the Merchants o f B alfara and Bagdat, who furnifh A ra b ia 5 as alfo by the
Merchants o f A fefopotaw ia, A natolia, Constantinople, Romania, Hungary, and Po­
land, For in all thole Countries, they ufe it either whole or beaten in moll
o f their meats, to heighten the tafte thereof.
The Army which was commanded out- o f B atavia for the Siege o f Cochin,
landed at a place call’d B elli-P o rto ; where the Hollanders had a Fort made o f
Palm-Trees. It is near to Cranganar, a (mall City which x k t Hollanders took
the year before ; not being able to take Cochin then, though they had made
fome attempts upon it. So foon as the Army landed, they march’d within
Cannon-fhot o f the C ity, there being a River between them and the City.
That part where the Hollanders encamp’d, is call’d B elle-E pin e, whereafter they
had fortifi’d themfcfees, as well as the Nature o f the place would permit, they
rais’d fome Batteries, which could not much annoy'the C ity, by reafon.of the
diftance. They lav there till thev had recruits o f more men ; for they had
but three Ships full, though he that commanded them were one o f the braveft
Captains o f his time. Some few days after, the Governour o f Amboyna ar­
riv’d with two Ships more, and afterwards' a B atch Captain brought a great
number o f Chinglas, who are the Natives o f the Hand o f Ceylah. Fpr the
Forces o f the H ollander would not be fo considerable as they are, did they not
make ufe o f the Natives o f the Country to fill up the C om pares which they
bring out o f Europe. The Natives o f Coylan, are good for digging Trenches,-
and railing Batteries, but for a Storm they fignifie little. Thofe o f Amboyna are
good Soldiers, four hundred o f which were left at B elle-E pin e. The Body o f
the Army took Shipping again, and landed near to Cochin, not far from a Church
dedicated to St. A ndrew 5 where the Portugals, with- certain M alavares, feem’d
to have- flay’ d afhore for the H ollanders coming : But feeing the Enemy to land
with fo much refolution, they only gave them one Volfy and retreated. In
their March the Hollanders defery’d certain Companies o f Fortuguefes near th e1
Sea-fhore, others fomewhat farther up in the Land, in a Church call’d St. fohns.
Thereupon they fent out fome Horfemen to difeover their number; but the
Portugals ftill retreated, after they had fet fire to the Church. Thereupon the
Hollanders made their approaches to the Town; and after they had befieg’d
it for fome time, a French Soldier, who was under their pay, feeing a Pannier
ty ’ d at the end o f a Cord, hanging over one o f the Baftions, ventur’d not-
withftanding all the Bullets that flew about his Ears, to fee what was in it. But
he was Strangely furpriz’d, to find nothing but a languifhing Infant, which
the Mother had hung there, that fhe might not fee it perifh for hunger. The
Soldier mov’d to companion, took the infant and gave it fuch as he had to
e a t; at which the Dutch General was fo incens’d, faying that the Soldier Should
have let the Infant perifh, that he call’d a Council o f War, where he would
haye had the Soldier run. the Gauntlet, which was very cruel; but the Coun­
cil, moderating the fentence, condemn’d him only to the Strappado.
The fame day ten Soldiers out o f every Company were commanded to, g a ‘.
to- one o f the Houfes o f the King o f Cochin; but they found no body there,
having
 hav ing plunder’d it the year before. A t which time the Hollanders flew four
Kings o f the Country, ,and fix hundred Blacks ; nor did there e'fcape but only one
ancient Queen, who was taken alive by a common Soldier, call’d Han Rez
whom the Commander o f the Arm y made a Captain immediately, -for his re­
ward. They left one Company in that Houfe ; but the Queen flay’d there but
fix days, for they gave her into the cuftody o f Savann3 one o f the moft
potent o f the petty Kings upon that Coaft, to whom the Hollanders had promis’d
to give the C ity o f Qranganor} i f they took Cochins, provided he would be faith­
ful to them.
Six w eeks pafs’ d ere any thing confiderable was d o n e; but then the Hol­
la n d e r.ftorming the Town by night, were repuls’d, and loft abundance o f men,
flain and taken Prifoners, through the Governour o f Cranganors fau lt, who
^commanded them, and was drunk when the aflault was made. Two months after,
'The General o f the Hollanders refolv’d to make another aflault in the lame
place ; and becaufe he would not want men, he lent for thole that lay upon
the fide o f Belle-epine. But by misfortune the Frigat ftruck upon the Sands,
and Iplitting, abundance o f the Soldiers were drown’d. They that could fwim,
g o t to land near Cochin, not finding any other place convenient, and were
all taken Prifoners by the Portugals, being' not above ten in all, Soldiers and
Mariners. The General however would not give over the aflault, but caufing
the Sea-men to land, he arm’d fome with half-Pikes, others with Swords, to
others he gave hand-Granadoes, and about ten a Clock in the mofflttig he began
the aflault, with four Companies, confiding each o f a hundred and fifty men.
The Hollanders loft abundance o f men in this Iaft aflault, and fo did the Portu-
gaefes, for they defended themfelves ftoutly, being feconded by two hundred
Soldiers, who were all Dutch-men, tho they fided with the Portuguefes, becaufe
their Countrymen had bated them fix months and a half pay for the lofs o f Touan.
W ithout the afiiftance o f thefe Soldiers, the City had never held out two months,
/ there being among them one o f the belt Dutch Engineers o f his time, who
had left his Countrymen by reafon o f their ill ufage o f him.
A t length the Hollanders having enter’d the Town toward evening, on Cali-
vete fid e , and being Matters o f the chief Bulwark, the Portugals came to a
Capitulation, and the C ity was furrender’d. The Portugals by their Articles
inarch’d out o f Cochin with their Arms and B aggage; but when they came out
o f the C ity where the Hollanders were drawn up in Battalia, they were all forc’d
to quit their Arms, and to lay them at the Generals fe e t ; except the Officers,
who kept their Swords^ The General had promis’ d the Soldiers the Pillage
o f the T ow n , but not being able to keep his w o rd , for feveral plaufible
reafons which he told, he promis’d them fix months pay, which in a few days
after w as reduc’d to eight Roupies a man. Samarin alfo demanded o f him the
C ity o f Cranganor, according to his prom ife; which the General made good j
but he caus’d all-the Fortifications to be flighted firft, and left Samarin nothing
but the bare Walls. For being o f a very mean Extraction, he was naturally as
cruel and barbarous in his difpofition. One time the Soldiers being fo put to
it for four days together, that they could get no food for money, two o f them
had fomewhere taken a C ow and kill’d h e r ; for which the General, when he
came to know o f it, caus’d one o f them to be hang’d immediately, and had or­
der’d the other to have run the Gauntlet, had not King Perea interceded for
him. ,
K ing Pena was a petty King o f that Country, with whom the General was
then in T re a ty ; and the T reaty being at length concluded, the General mutter d
all his Land and Sea-men, to the number o f about fix thoufand men. A few
days after, he fent fome Companies to befiege the C ity o f Cananor, which fur­
render’ d without any refiftance. When they return’d, the General^caus d a Crown
to be made for the new King o f Cochin, the other being expell d his Country.
And upon the day which he had appointed for this moft folemn Coronation,the Ge­
neral fat upon a kind o f a Throne, at the foot whereof, a Malavare or Pirat,
bein'? led thither between three Captains o f each fide, fell upon his knees to
receive the Crown from the Generals hand, and to do homage for a pettv
Kingdom, that is to fayy the little C ity o f Cochin and its Territories, wham
 ------------- ---- ----- - — ------- -------- ---- ------ - •
90_________ TraveihinI ndia. P
were very fmall. The King and the King-maker were both alike. For no doubt
it could not but be a pleafant fight, to fee a Hollander, that had been only
the Cook o f a Ship, crowning a miferable Pirat with thofe hands that had oft’ner
handled a Ladle than a Sword. .
In the mean time the Ships that carried the Inhabitants o f Cochin to Goa,
return’d laden with the fpoils of thofe diftreflfed people ; for contrary to the
Articles o f Capitulation, the Hollanders were no fooner out at Sea, but they
took from thofe poor Creatures whatever they had, rifling^both men and women,
without any regard to fex or modefty. /
The General being return’d into Batavia, they fent a Governour to Cochin,
who to make the place the ftronger, demolifh’d a great part o f the City. But/
this Governour us’d the greateft rigor imaginable, even towards the Soldiers,$
he fhut them up in the City as if they had been in a Prifbn; nor could they
drink either Wine, or Smy, or Strong-water, by reafon o f the great Impoffo
which he laid upon them. ( Sury is a drink which flows from the Palm-trees. )
So that when the Portuguefes kept Cochin, men might live better for five or fix
Sous, than under the Hollander for. ten. This Governour was fo fevere, that
he would banifh a man for the fmalleft fault in the world, to the Ifland o f Cey-
lan, to a place where they made Brick,; fometimes for five or fix years, feme-
times as along as the party liv’d. For it is oftentimes obforv’d, that when any
one is banifh’d thither, though the fentence be only for a term o f years, yet
the Exile never obtains his freedom afterwards.

CHAP. XVII.
The Tajfage by Sea from Ormus to Mafli-pa-tan.

departed from Gomron to Majlipatan the eleventh o f M ay, 16 5 2 , and went

I aboard a great Veflel o f the King o f Golconda’s, which is bound every year
from Perjia,fadtn with fine Calicuts, Ghites, or Calicuts painted with a Pencil,which
makes them much more beautiful and dearer than thofe which are printed.
The Holland Company are wont to allow to thofe Velfels which belong to any
o f the Kings or Princes o f India, a Pilot, and two or three Gunners; neither
the Indians nor Perjians being expert in Navigation. In the Veflel where I was
aboard, there were but fix Dutch Mariners at molt, but above a hundred N a­
tives. We failed out o f the Perjian G o lf with a pleafing and favourable Gale ;
but we had not fail’d very far before we found the Sea very rough, and the
Winds at South-Weft, fo violent, though full in our Stern, that we were not
not able to carry out more than one fmall Sail. The next day, and for fem e
days after, the Wind grew more violent/ and the Sea more boift’rou s; fb that
being in the fixteenth D egree, which is the elevation o f Goa, the Rain, the ‘
Thunder, and Lightning, render’d the Tempeft the more terrib le; info much
that we could not carry out any other than our top-fail, and that h alf furl’d.
We pafs’d by the M aldives Iflands, but were not able to difcern them , befides
that the Ship had taken in very much water in the Hold. For the Ship had
lain five months in. the Road o f Gomron, where i f the Mariners are not <wery
careful to wafh the Planks that lye out o f the water, they w ill be apt to gape,
which caufes the Ship to leak when fhe is loaden. For whi£h reafon the Hol­
landers wafh the outfide o f their Ships morning, and evening. We had in our
Veflel five and fifty Horfes, which the King o f Perjia had fent as a Prefent to
the King o f Golconda 5 and about a hundred Merchants, Perjians and Armenians
to g e th er, who were Traders to India. One whole day and night together
there rofe a crofs Wind, fo violent, that the Water row l’d in from Stern to
Stern, and the m ifthief was, that our Pumps were nought. By good fortune
there was a Merchant that had two Bails o f Raffia Leather, befides four or
five Sadlers that knew how to few* the Skins, who were very ferviceable as well
■ to
 to the whole Ship as to themfelves. For they made great Buckets o f the Skins,
four Skins to a.B u c k et, which being let down from the Mails with Pullies*
through certain gi'cat, Holes which were cut in the D eck, drew up a vaft quan­
tity o f Water. The fame day the violence o f the Tempeft continuing, there
fell three Thunderbolts into the Ship. The firft: fell upon the Boltiprit, and
fplit it quite in tw o ; and running along upon the D eck kill’d three men. The
fecond fell two hours after, and kill’d two men, fhooting along as the other
did from Head to Stern. The third follow’d prefently after, the Matter, the
Matters Mate,and m y fe lf ftanding together near the main Mask. A t what time the
Cook coming to ask the Matter whether he foould take up the Victuals, the Thun­
derbolt took him in the lower part o f his Belly, made a little hole,and took off
all the Hair as clean as they drefs a Pig with hot water and Rofin, without doing
him any more harm. Only when they came to anoint the little hole with Oil
o f Coco’s, he roar’d out through the fharpnefs o f the pain which he endur’d,
*'* The twenty-fourth o f fm e in the morning, w e difcover’ d Land ; and ma­
king toward it, w e found our felves before Ponte de Guile, the firft Town in the
Ifland o f Ceylan, which the Hollanders had taken from the Porttigals. From
thence to, the Road o f Majhpatan w e had very good w eather; where w e : ar­
riv ’d the fecond o f foly, an hour or two after Sun-fet. There I went aftiore,
.and was moft civilly treated by the Dutch Prefident, and Merchants* as alio by
the Englijk.
The eighteenth and nineteenth o f fm e, the Sieur Du }ardin and I, bought us
two Fallskf.s, and fix Oxen to carry our felves, our Servants, and our Luggage*
Our defign was to have gone dirctfily to G.olconda, there to have fold the Ring
a parcel o f long Pearls, the leaft w hereof weigh’d thirty-four Carats, and the
biggeft thirty-five, w ith feme other Jewels,the moft part w hereof were Emraulds.
But the Hollanders alluring us, that our journey would be to no purpofe, in
regard the King would buy nothing that was rare, or o f a high price, till M ir-
gimola, his General and prime Minifter o f State, had view ’d the Commodity ?
underftanding therefore, that he was then at the Siege o f Gandicot, in the Pro­
vince o f Carnatica, w e refelv’d to go thither to him.

C H A P . X V III.

The Road from M a flip a ta n to G a n d ico t, a City and Garri[on in the

Province of C a rn a tic a . And of the dealings which the Author
had w ith M ir g im o la , who commanded the King of G o lc o n d a V
Army. With a difconrfe at large concerning Elephants.

\T T E fet forth from Maflipatan the twentieth o f fane, about five o f the
Clock in the Evening.
The next day, being the one and twentieth, w e travell’d three Leagues, and
lay at a Village call’d Nilmol.
The two and twentieth, w e trayel’d fix Leagues, to Wouhir, another Village %
crofting the R iver upon a floating Bridge, before w e came thither.
T h e three and twentieth, after w e had traveled fix hours, w e came to Pate-
met, a pitifu l, Village, where w e w ere conftrairfd to lye three days by rea-
fon o f the Rains.
T h e twenty-feventh, w e came to a great Town, call’d Bez.ouart % not being
able to travel above a League and a hall, becaufe the Road was all overflow’d.
There w e w ere forc’d to ftay four days, for the Rains had fo fwell’d the Ri­
ver w hich w e w ere to crofs, that the Ferryman could not govern his Boat a-
gainft the violence o f the Stream. There w e alfb left the Horfes which the
King o f Perfla font tothe King of Qokonda-, which by that time were reduc’d to

fifty* *N % While
 «• While w e flay’d at Bewteart, w e went to-fee feveral Pagods, o f which the
Country is fu ll} there being more than in any other part o f India} for unlefs
it b e 'th e Governours o f Towns; and fome o f their Doipefticks, all the reft o f
the Inhabitants are Idolaters. The Pagod belonging to the Town o f Bcziouan
is a very large one, but not dos’d with W alls; it confifts o f fifty-tw o Pillars
twenty foot high, that uphold a flat ro o f o f Free-ftone; they are'adorn’d with
feveral embofs’ d Figures o f ugly D evils, and feveral forts o f Creatures. Some
©f thofe D evils are. made with four Horns, others with many Legs and many
Tails s others Idling out their Tongues, and others in feveral other ridiculous
poftures. The fame Figures are cut in the Stone o f the R oof, and between
the Pillars Hand the Statues o f their Gods upon Pedeftals. The Pagod is built
in the midft o f a Court, o f a greater length than breadth, encompafs’d With
Walls, which are adorn’d within and without, with the fame Figures as the
Pagod j and a G allery upheld by fixty-fix Pillars, runs round the Wall, after
the manner o f k Gloyfter. You enter into this Court through a wide Portal
upon which arC two Niches, one above another, the firft upheld by tw elve'
the other by eight Pillars. A t the bottom o f the Pillars o f the Pagod, are
certain old Indian Characters, o f which the P rieftso f thofe Idolaters themfelves
can hardly tell the meaning.
W e w en t to fee another Pagod, built upon a Hill, to Which there is ah afe
cent o f a hundred and ninety-three fteps, every one a foot high. The Pagod
is four-fquare, with a Cupola at the top ; and has the fame embofs’ d Figures,
as the Pagod o f Bez,ottart, round about the Walls. In the middle, there is an
Idol fitting crofs-Jeg'd, after the manner o f the C o u n try; and in that fitting
pdfture it is about four foot high ; upon the Head it has a" Triple C row n , from
which four Horns extend them felves; and it has the Face o f a man, turn’ d to­
ward the Eaft. The Pilgrims that come out o f devotion to thefe Pagods, when
they enter, clafp their hands together, and rear them up to their foreheads 5
then th ey advance'tow ard the Mol, tolling their two hands lb clafpt together,
and crying out feyeral times Ram, Ram, that is to fay, God, God. When they
come near, they ring a little Bell that hangs upon the Idol it fe lf 5 after they
have befmear’cf the Face, and feveral parts o f the Body, with feveral forts o f
Painting. Some there are that bring along with them Viols o f Oil, with which
they anoint the I d o l; and befides, they make an Offering to it o f Sugar, O il,
and other things proper to be eaten ; the richer fort a!fo adding pieces o f Sil­
ver, There are fixty Priefts that belong to this Idol, and maintain themfelves,
their Wives, and Children upon the Offerings brought to the Idol. But to the
end the Pilgrims may believe the Idol takes them, the Priefts let them lye
tw o days, and the third day in the evening they take them away. When any
Pilgrim goes to a Pagod, to be cur’d o f any diftemper, he brings the Figure
o f the Member affeded made either in Gold, Silver, or Copper, according to
his quality, which he offers to his god ; and then falls a finging, as all the reft
do, after they have offer’d. Before the Gate o f the Pagod, there is a flat
R oof, upheld by fixteen Pillars, and right againft it, is another upheld by eight 5
which ferves for the Priefts Kitcftin. On the South-fide there is a large Plat­
form cut in the Mountain, where there is a pleafing Made o f many fair Trees,
and feveral WellsMdiggM in the ground. Pilgrims come far aftd near to this
Pagod ; and i f they be poor, the Priefts relieve them with what they receive
from the rich, that com e there out o f devotion. The great Feaft o f this Pa­
god is in the month o f OElober, at which time there is a great eoncoerfe o f
people from all parts,' W hile w e w ere there, there was a Woman that had
not ftirr’ d out o f the Pagod fo r three days together*; and her prayer to the
Idol was, fince fee had loft her Husband, to know what Che Chould do to bring
up her Children. Thereupon asking one o f the Priefts, wherefore Che had no
anfwer, or Whether foew as to have any anfiver or no 3 he told me, that (he
muft wait the pleafure o f their G od, and that then he would give her an an­
swer to what fee expefted. Upon thisT mrftrufted Tome cheat, and to difeo-
v er it, I referlv’d to go into the Pagod when all the Priefts were abfent at Dinner,
there being only one that flood at the G ate, whom I fent to fetch me fem e »,
water at a Fountain two or three Musket-fhot from the place. During that
* • time
 B o o k I. T ra v e ls in I ndia . _93
time I went in, and the Woman hearing me, redoubl’d her crie s; for there being
no light in the Pagod, but what comes in at the door, it is very dark. 1 felt my
w ay to the Idol, and b y the glimmering light obferWd an hole behind the Id o l
I could not do this lo quickly, but that the Prieft return’d before I had done ; He
cur ft me fo r prophaning his Temple, as he call’d it. But w e became fuddenly very
good friends by the mediation o f tw o Roupies which I put into his hands, where­
upon he prefently prefented me with fome o f his Betle.
The one and thirtieth, we departed from Bez.oxart, and paftthe River which
v runs to the Mine o f Gam or Conlour. It was then neer half, a league broad, by
reafon o f the great rains which had fall’n continually for eight or nine days to­
gether. A fter we had travell’d three leagues on the other fide o f the R iver, we
came to a great Pagod built upon a large Platform, with an afcent o f 15- or 20
fteps. Within it ftood the Figure o f a Cow , all o f very black-Marble : and a
number o f deformed Idols four or five-foot-high 5 fome having many heads,
“ others many hands and legs : and the moft ugly arem oft ador’d, and receive molt
Offerings.
A quarter o f a league from this Pagod is a large Town ; but w e trayell’d three
leagues farther, and came to lie at another Town, call’d K a b -K a ll, neer to which
there is a final! Pagod, wherein there ftand five or fix Idols o f Marble very w ell-
made. ■
T he firft o f Augufl w e came to a great C ity call’d Condevir, with a double-
M oat, pav’d at the bottom with Free-ftone. The w ay to this Town is clos’d on
each fide with ftrong Walls, and at fuch and fuch diftances are built certain
round Tow ers o f little or no defence. This C ity toward the Eaft ftretches out to
a Mountain about a league in compafs, and furrounded with Walls. A t the di-
ftance o f every i y o paces, there is as it were an half-Moon, and within the Walls
are three Fortrefies.
T h e fecond, w e travell’d fix leagues, and lay at a Village call’d Copenoar.
T he third day, after we had travell’d eight leagues, w e came to Adanquige, a
Very fair Town, where there is a very large Pagod, with abundance o f Chambers
•Which w ere built for the Priefts; but are now gone to ruine. There are alfo in
the Pagod certain Idols, but v ery much maim’d, Which the people however very
fuperftitioufly adore.
The fourth, w e travell’d eight leagues, and came to lie at the Town o f N cf-
drepar. H a lf a league on this fide there is a great R iver 3 but at that time it had
but little w ater in i t ; by reafon o f the drowth.
The fifth, after eight leagues journey we lay at Condecour.
T he fixth, w e travell’d feven hours, and lay at a Village call’d Dakjje.
The feventh, after three leagues journey w e came to Nelour, where there are
marry Pagods, and having crofs’d a great R iver, a quarter o f a league farther, w e
travell’d fix leagues, and came to Gandaron. ,
The eighth, after a journey o f eight hours w e lay at Serepele, a fmall V il-

?a§The ninth, w e travell’d nine leagues, and lay at a good Town call’d Pouter.
The tenth, w e traveil’d eleven hours, and lay at Senepgond, another good

T °The eleventh, w e went no farther than Palicat, which is but four leagues from
Senepgond; a n d V thole four leagues w e travell’d above one in the Sea, up to the
Saddles o f our Horfes in w ater. There is another w ay, but it is the farther about
b y tw o or three leagues. Palieat is a ro rt that belongs to the Hollanders that
liv e upon the Coaft o f Coromandel5. and where they have their ch ief Factory,
Where" lives alfo the chief Intendent over all the reft that are in the Territories o f
the K in g o f Golconda. There are ufually within the F o rt 200 Souldiers, or there­
abouts, befides feveral Merchants that live there upon the account o f T rad e; and
feveral others, who having ferv’ d the Company according to their agreement,
retire to that place. There alfo dwell fome o f the N atives o f the Countrey; 10
that Palicat is now as it were a little Town. Between the Town and the Calt.e
there is a large diftance o f ground, left the Fort fhould be annoid by mot from
the Town. The Baftions are well-ftor’d With good Guns : And the Sea Comes
up to the v ery Wall o f it 3 but there is no Haven, only a Road. We Raid m jh e
 Town till the next day in the evening, where we obferv’d, that when the Inhabi­
tants fetch their water to drink, they Hay till the Sea is quite out, and then dig­
ging holes in the Sand as neer the Sea as they can, they meet with frelh-
water. ;,
The bvelth, w e departed from Calk at, and the next morning about ten o f the
clock w e came to Madrefpatan, otherwife call’d Fort St., Gemge, which belongs to
the Englijh, having traveled not above feven or eight leagues that day. We lay
at the C o v e n t. o f Capuchins, at what time Father Ephraim, and Father Zenon
we,re both there.
The fifteenth, we went to St. Thomas’s Town, to fee the Auftin-Friars, and the
Jefuits Church, in thefirft w h ereof is an Iron-lance, wherewith they fay that St.
Thomas was martyr’d.
The two and twentieth, in the morning w e departed from Madrefpatan, and
after a journey o f five leagues we arriv’ d at a large Town call’d Serravaron.
The three and twentieth, after 7 leagues travel, we came to Qudecot, the whole-
days journey being over a flat fandy Countrey. On each fide there are only Copies
o f Bamboks that grow very high. Some o f theie Copfes are fo thick, that it is im-
pofiible for a man to get into th em ; but they are pefter’d with prodigious num­
bers o f Apes : Thofe that breed in the Copfes upon one fide o f the way, are ene­
mies to them that are bred on the other fid e; fo that they dare not crofs from
one fide to the other, but they are in danger o f bejng immediately ftrailgl’d.
Here w e had good fport in fetting the Apes together by, the e a rs; which is cTone
after this manner. This- part o f the Countrey, at every leagues end, is clos’d up
w ith Gates and Barricade’s, where there is a good Guard kept, and where all Paf-
fengers are examin’d whither they go, and whence they com e; fo that men may
fafely travel there with their Money in their hands. In feveral parts o f this Road
there is R ice to be fold ; and they that would fee the fport, caufe five or fix
Baskets o f R ice to be fet in the Road, fome forty or fifty paces one from the
other, and clofe b y every Basket they lay five or fix Battopns about two-foot-long,
and two inches ab o u t; then they retire and hide them felves: prefently they (hall
fee the Apes on both fides o f the way defeend from the tops o f the Bamboo's,
and advance toward the Baskets which are full o f Rice They are about half aa
hour (hewing their teeth one at the other before they come near the Baskets j
fometimes they advance, then retreat again, being loath to encounter. At length
the female-Baboons, who are more contagious than the males, especially thofe
that have young ones, which they carry in their arms, as Women do their Chil­
dren, venture to approach the Basket, and as they are about to put in their heads
to eat, the males on the other fide advance to hinder them. Immediately the
other party comes forward, and thus the feud being kindled on both fides, they
take up the Battoons that lie by the Baskets, and thrafli one another in good
earned. The weakeft are conftrain’ d to flie into the wood with their pates bro­
ken, and their limbs maim’d ; while the Matters o f the Field glut themfelves with
Rice. Though it may be, when their bellies are full, they will fuffer fome o f the
female-party to come and partake with them.
The four and twentieth, we travell’d nine leagues, all the way being like the
Road the day before, as far as Naraveron.
The five and twentieth, after a journey o f .eight hours , through a Countrey o f
the fame nature, meeting at every tw o or three leagues end with Gates and
Guards, we came in the evening to Gaz^el.
The fix and twentieth, w e travell’d nine leagues, and came to lie at Cpurva,
where there was nothing to be found neither for Man ner Beait, fo that our Cat-
tel were forc’d to be contented with a little Grafs, which was cut on purpofe for
them; Courva is only a celebrated P a g o d ; by which, at our arrival, we (aw fe-
vera! bands o f Souldiers pals b y, fome with Half-pikes, fome with Muskets, and
fome w ith Clubs, who were going to joyn with one o f the , .ineipd Comman­
ders o f Mirgrtwolds Army, who was encamp'd upon a rifing-ground not far trom
Courva 5 the place being pleafant and cool, by reafon o f the great number o f
Trees and Fountains that grace it. When w e underftood the Captain was (o neer,
w e went to w ait upon him, and found him fitting in his Tent with many Lords
the Countrey, all Idolaters, After we had presented him with a pair o f Pocket-
Piitols
 Piftols inlaid with Silver, he demanded o f us what had brought us into that
Countrey; but when w e told him that we came to attend Mirgimola, Generalif-
\fimo o f the King o f Golcondas Army, about bufinels, he was infinitely kind to us :
However, understanding that he took us for Hollanders, we told him we were no t
Hollanders, but French-men. Thereupon, not underftanding what Nation we
wet$, he fell into a long difcourfe with us about the Government o f our Coun­
trey, and the Grandeur o f our King. Six or feven days before, they had taken five
or fix Elephants, three whereof had efcap’d, having kill’d ten or twelve o f the
N atives w ho aflifted in the Chace ; in purfuit w hereof the General was prepa­
ring ; and becaufe w e could not ftay to fee the {port, w e were contented to inform
our (elves o f the manner o f hunting that vaft Anim al; which is thus. They cut
out feveral Alleys or Walks in the Wood, which they dig full o f great deep holes,
and cover with Hurdles ((row’d over with a little earth. Then the Hunters hoop­
i n g and hollowing, and beating up Drum s, with Pikes that have Wild-fire ti’d to
the end o f them, force the Elephant into thofe Walks, where he tumbles into the
holes, not being able to rife again. Then they fetch Ropes and Chains : and fome
th ey bring under their bellies, others they wind about their legs and trunk, and
when they think they have fufficiently hamper’d the Beaft, they have certain En­
gines ready, wherewithal to draw him up. Neverthelefs, o f five, three efcap’d,
notwithftanding the cords and chains about their bodies and their legs. The
people told us one thing which Teem’d very wonderful ■, which was, that thefe
Elephants having been once deceiv’ d .and having efcap’d the (hare,are very miftruft-
ful ever a ft e r ; and when they get into the Wood again, they break off a greai
bough from one o f the Trees w ith their trunk, with which they examine every
ftep they go, before they fet down their feet, to try whether there be any hole o f
no in their way. So that the Hunters that told us the Story, feem’d to be out o f
hopes o f ever taking thole three Elephants which had efcap’d. Had we been
affur’d that w e might have been eye-witneffes o f this miraculous precaution o f
the Elephant, w e would have ((aid three or four days, what-ever urgent bufinefs
' .w e had had. The Captain him felf was a kind o f a Brigadeer, that commanded
three or four-thoufand men, who were quarter’ d half a league round the
Countrey.
The (even and twentieth, after two hours travel, w e came to a great Village,
where w e (aw the tw o Elephants which had been fo lately taken. Every one o f
the two wild Elephants was plac’d between two tame ones. Round about the
wild Elephants flood fix men, with every one an Half-pike in their hands, and a
lighted-Torch fatten’d at the end o f the Pike, who talk’d to the Beafts, giving
them meat, and crying out in their language, Take it, eat it. The food which they
gave them was a little bottle o f Hey, fome pieces o f brown-Sucre, and Rice boil’d
in w ater, with fome few corns o f Pepper. I f the wild Elephants refus’d to do as
. they w ete bidden, the men "made figns to the tame Elephants to beat them, which
they did, banging the refractory Elephant upon the head and forehead with their
trunks; and i f he offer’d to make any refinance, the other Elephant thwackt him
on the other fide ; fo that the poor Elephant, not knowing what to do, was con-
ftrain’d to learn obedience.
Being thus fall’n into the Story o f Elephants, I will add fome other obferva-
tions, which I have made upon the nature o f thofe Animals. Though the Ele­
phant never meddles with the female, after he is once taken, yet he is fometimes
feiz’d with a kind o f luftful rage. One day that Sha-jehan was an Hunting upon
one o f ilis Elephants, with one o f his Sons that fate by him to fan him, the Ele­
phant became fo furious by reafon o f his luft, that the Governor who was by no
means able to matter him, declar’ d to the King, that to allay the fury o f the Ele­
phant, w ho would elfe doubtlefs bruife him to pieces among the Trees, there was
no w ay, but for one o f the three to forfeit his life : and that he would willingly
facrifice his for the fafety o f the K ing and the Prince his Son:. Only he defir’d
his M ajetty to take care o f three final! Children which he mutt leave behind him.
Having fo (aid, he threw himfelf under the Elephant’ s-feet, who had no fooner
taken him in his trunk and fqueez’d him to pieces with his feet, but he grew as
quiet and peaceable as before. The King, as an acknowledgment for fo famous^,
deliverance gave to the poor two-hunder d-thouland Roupies, and highly advanc d_
*& every
every one o f the Sons o f him that had fo generoufly laid down his life for the
fafety o f his Sovereign.
I obferv’ d alfo, that though the Elephant’s skin be very hard while he is alive 5
yet when he is dead, it is juft like melted-glue.
Elephants are brought from feveral parts o f India ; as from the Ifland o f Cej-
lan3 where they are very Email; but the moft couragious o f all : from the yip.'of
Sumatra 5 from the Kingdom o f Cochin 5 from the Kingdom o f Siam 5 and from
the Frontiers o f the Kingdom o f Boutam neer the Grea t-Tartarie. They are
brought alio from the Coaft o f Melinda, Eaftward o f A frica : where they art
in very great numbers, according to the report o f a Portuguese-Captain, made at
Goa, who came from thence to make fome complaint againft the Governor o f M o­
zambique. He told me that he had feen all along that Coaft feveral Parks that
were empal’d with nothing but Elephants-teeth, the leaft of which Parks is above
a league ab o u t: He added farther, that the Blacks o f the Countrey hunt their
Elephants, and eat the flelh. But they are oblig’d to give the tusks o f every one
they kill to the Lord o f the place. When they intend to takeaheir Elephants in
the Ifland o f CejUn, they make a long lane, clos’d in on both fides, fo that the Ele­
phant can neither run to the right nor to the left: this lane is broad at the firft, but
grows narrower and narrower, till there is no more room left at the farther-end
than for the female-Elephant to lie down, which muft be one that is covetous o f
the male at the lame time. Though {he be tame, yet fhe is bound with good
Ropes and Cords, and by her cries will call the male-EIephant, who prefently runs
through the lane towards her. Now when the Elephant comes where the lane
grows narrow, they that lie hid for that purpofe, immediately barricado up the
lane behind, and when he comes neer the female, there is another barricado let up
that ftops him from going any farther. When he is thus between the Barricado’s,
they fo intangle his legs and trunk with ropes and cords, that he is foon taken, ha­
ving no way to help himfelf. The fame way they ufe for the moft part in the
Kingdoms o f Siam, and Pegu, only that the Natives there mount the female-
Elephant, and go to find out the male in the Forrefts. And when they have met
with his haunt, they tye the female to the moft convenient place they can find,
and then they fix their {hares for the Elephant, who in a friort time haftens
toward the female, hot for generation, where her cries call him.
This is obfervable o f the female-Elephant, that when fhe ‘begins to be hot, flic
gathers together a great heap o f herbs and weeds, and makes her le lf a kind o f
bed fome four or five-foot-high from the ground, where contrary to the cuftom
o f all other creatures, flie lies upon her back, in expectation o f the male, whom
fhe calls to her by a peculiar cry.
This is alfo particular to the Elephants in the Ifle o f Ceylan, that only the firft:
Elephant which the female produces, has any tusks* And it is alfo obfervable^
that the Ivory which comes from Achen when it is wrought, has this peculiar
quality with it, that it never grows yellow, I ke that which comes out o f the
Continent, and from the Eafi-Indies, which makes it more efteem’d, and dearer
than any other. -
When the Merchants bring Elephants to any place to fe ll; ’tis a pleafant fight
to fee them go along. For in regard there are generally old and young together,
when the old ones are gone b y , the children will be running after the little ones
to play with them, and give them fomething or other to eat. While the young
Elephants, which are very wanton, are bufilv taking what is offer’d them, the
children leap upon their backs : but then the young Elephants, that lately ftopt
for the lucre o f victuals, perceiving their Dams a great w ay before them, double
their pace, and playing with their trunks, throw the children off their backs to
the ground, yet without doing them any harm.
Notvvithftanding all the enquiry I have made, I could never find exaCtly h o w
long an Elephant w ill live. N o r can all the governors and keepers o f thofe
creatures tell you more, then that fuch an Elephant has been in the pofleflion o f
their Father, their Grandfather, and great Grandfather. And by that computation,
I found that they had liv’ d fome o f them fix-fcore, or an hunder’d and thirty
y e a rs,. N

The
 { The greateft part o f thofe that have made Relations o f India, boldly affirm
that the Great Mogul keeps three or four-thoufand Elephants. But being m y
ft:If at febanabad, where the King at prefent refides, he that was chief Matter o f
the Elephants, allur’d me that the King had not above five-hunder'd Elephants,
which were call’d Elephants o f the Houfe, made ufe o f only to carry the Women,
\ their Tents, and Luggage ; but that for the Wars, he only kept fourfcore, or four-
) fcore and ten at moft, The nobleft o f the latter fort is always referv’d for the
; King’ s Eldeft Son, the allowance for his food and other neceflaries being yoo
Roupies a month, which comes to 7yo Livres. There are fome that are not al­
low’ d above yo, others 4 0 , others 30, and fome but 20 Roupies. But thole Ele­
phants that are allow’d an hunder’d, two-hunder’d, three-hunder’d or four-
hunder’d Reupies a-month, have belonging to them certain Horfe-men that live
upon the fame pay, and two or three young fellows to fan them during the heat
o f the weather. All thefe Elephants are not always kept in the C i t y : the
greateft part being led out every morning into the fields, or among the thickets,
w h ere they feed upon the branches o f Trees, Sucre-canes, and Millet, to the great
detriment Of the poor Countrey man. But not a little to the profit o f their
K e e p e rs; for the lels they eat at home, the more they gain into their own
purfes.
The twenty-feventh o f -Angstft, w e travell’d fix leagues.; and lay at a great Town
call’d Ragia-peta.
The twenty-eighth, after eight leagues journey we came to Ondecour.
The twenty-ninth, after nine hours travel we arriv’d at Osstemeda, where there
is one o f the greateft Pagods in all India. It is all built o f large Free-ftone, and
it has three Tow ers, where there ftand feveral deform’d figures o f Embofs’d-
work. It is encompaft with many little Chambers for the Priefts Lodgings : five-
hunder’ d paces beyond there is a wide Lake, upon the banks whereof are built
feveral Pagods eight or ten-foot-fquare ; and in every one an Idol reprefenting the
fhape o f fome D evil, with a Bra-mere, who takes care that no ftranger that is not
o f their fuperftition, fhall come to waffi, or take any water out o f. the Lake. I f
any ftranger defires any water, they bring it in earthen-pots: and. i f by chance
their pot touches the ftranger’s Veftel, they break it immediately. They told m^
alfo, that i f any ftranger, not o f their fuperftition, fhould happen by accident to
wafh in that Lake, they muft be forc’d to drain the Lake o f all the water that
was in at that time. As for their Alms, they are very charitable; for there pafles
by no perfon jn neceffity, or that begs o f them, but they give them to eat and
drink o f fuchas they have. There are feveral Women that fit upon the Road,
w h ereof fome o f them always keep fire for Travellers to light their Tobacco by.'
N ay, they will give a Pipe to fome that have none at all. Others boil Rice w ith
JQuicheri, which is a grain fomewhat like our Hemp-feed. Others boil Beans
with their Rice, becaufe the water wherein they are boil’d never puts thofe that
are over-hot into a Pleurify. There are Women that have vow ’d to perform thefe
acts o f Charity to ftrangers for feven or eight years, fome for more, fome for left,
according to their convenience. And to every Traveller they give fome o f their
Beans, and R ice-w ater, and an handful o f Rice to eat. There are other Women
upon the high-w ay, and in the fields, looking behind their Horfes, their Oxen,
and their Cow s, who have made vo w s never to eat but what they find indigefted
in the dung o f thofe Beafts. N o w in regard there is neither Barly nor Oats in that
Countaey, they give their Cattel certain great crooked Peafe, which they bruife
before between two Milk-ftones : and then lay them in fteep for h alf an hour j
for th ey are a very fblid fubftance, and hard to be digefted. T hey give their Cat­
tel thefe Peafe every evening ; and in the morning they feed them with two-
pound o f dark-brown-Sugar, like Wax, kneaded together w ith as much Meal, and
one-pound o f Butter, w hereof the Oftlers or Groom s make little round Balls
’ which th ey thruft down their throats 5 for otherwife they would never Pat theifi.
Afterwards they wafh their mouths, that are all over clamm’d, efpecially their
teeth, which makes them have fuch an averfion againft that fort o f food, All the
day long they pull up the graft and weeds b y the roots, arid give their Cattel, be­
ing very careful o f letting them eat any o f the earth. /
The thirty-th, w e travell’d eight leagues,' and lay at a place c'alFd Goulnpaie. _
; 0 0 * q T he
 The one and thirty’ th, after we had travell’d nine hours , w e ftopt at
The firft o f September we traveled but fix leagues, and came to lie at Gattdic. t.
It was but eight days before, that the Nahab had taken that City, after a Siege of
three months. N or had it been taken Without the affiftanee o f certain French-
men, who had forfaken the firry ice o f the Dutch-Company, by reafon o f ill-ufage.
They had alfo feveral Englijh and Butch-Cannoneers, with two or three Adlians,
which mainly forwarded the furrender o f that place.
Gandicot is one o f the ftrongeft Cities in the Kingdom o f Carnatica. It is fitua-
ted upon the point o f an high Mountain ; there being but one afeent to it, not
above twenty or five and twenty-foot-broad at m o ft; in fome places not above
feven or eight-foot-wide. On the right-hand o f the w ay, which is cut out o f
the Mountain, there is a moft hideous precipice; at the bottom whereof runs a
Vaft River. Upon the top o f the Mountain there is a final] plain, about a charter
o f a league broad, and about half a league long. This is all fow’d with Rice and
Millet, and water’ d with many little Springs. The top o f the plain on the South-
fide, where the City is built, is encompaft with precipices, two Rivers running at
the bottom, which form the point. So that there is but one Gate to enter into
the C ity from the plain-fide ; and that too fortifi’d with three good Walls o f
Free-ftone, with Moats pav’d at the bottom with Free-ftone; fo that the befieged
had but only one quarter o f the C ity to defend, containing about five-hunder’d
paces. They had but two Iron-Guns, the one carrying twelve-pound-Ball, the
other eight. The one was planted upon the Gate, the other upon a point o f a
kind o f a Baftion. So that until the Nahab had found the w ay to mount his Can­
non upon a very high place neer the C ity, he loft a great number o f men by fe-
veral failles which the Befieged made. The Raja that was within, was efteem’d
one o f the braveft and moft experienc’d Captains that ever were amongft the Ido­
laters : whereupon, the Nahab finding that the place was not to be taken, unlefs he
could get up his Cannon to the top o f that fteep afeent, fent for all the French­
men that w ere in the King’s feryice, promifing to every one four months extraor­
dinary pay* i f they could find a way to mount his Cannon upon the top o f fucha
place ; wherein they had the good-hap to be very fuccesfuJ. For they mounted
four pieces o f Cannon, and were fo profperous, as to hit the great Gun that was
planted upon the Gate, and render it unferviceable. At length, when they had
beaten down good part o f the Wall o f the City, the Befieged same to capitulate,
and march’d out o f the Town upon very good Articles. The day w e arriv’d, all
the Arm y was encamp’d at the foot o f the Mountain, in a plain, through which
there ran a very fair R iv e r ; where the N a h a b mufter’d his Cavalry, and found
them in a very good condition. An Englijh-C'dnnoneev and an Italian feeing Mon-
fieur ja r din and my fe lf pals b y , guefs’ d us to be Frangufs; and becaufe it was
late, accofted us very civilly, and oblig’d us to ftay with them all night. By them
we underftood that there was in the C ity a FYracA-Engineer, whofe name w as
Claudius Maille o f Bourges, and that- he was employ’ d by the Nahab to caft fome
pieces o f Cannon which the Nabob intended to leave in the City.
The next day w e went into the C ity, and found out Maille’s Lodging, having
been acquainted with him at Batavia ; who informing the Nahab o f our arrival,
lie prefently fent us Provifion for our felves and our beafts.
The third day w e went to wait upon the Nahab, who had pitch’d his Tents up­
on that part o f the plain neer the place where the way is cut out o f the Rock.
W e inform’d him o f the caufe o f our coming, telling him that wre had fome com­
modities that were rare, and worth the King’ s buying; but that w e were unwil­
ling to fhew them to the King till he had feen them ; believing it our duty to
render him that refpeft. The Nahab was very well-pleas’d with our Comple­
ment ; and after he had caus’d us to be prefented with Betle, w e took our leaves
o f him, and return’d to our L o d g in g s, whither he fent to us two Bottles o f
Wine,o bo o f Sack, and the other o f Schiras, which is a rare thing in thatCountrey.
The fourth day we waited upon him again,and carried along with us fome Pearles
o f an extraordinary weight, beauty and bignefs j the leaft w hereof weighed twenty
four Caratts. A fter he hadvewd them and ITew’ d them to fome o f the Lords that
were about him, he ask’d the price, which when w e had let him,he return’d us our
jew els and told us he would confider o f it.
The
 The tenth day he fent for us in the morning, and after he had caus’d us to
iJt down by him, he fent for five fmall Bags full o f Diamonds, every Bag con­
taining a good handful. They were loofe Stones, o f a very black Water, and
very fmall 5 none o f them exceeding a Carat, or a Carat and a half} but other-
wile' Very clean. There were fome few that might weigh two Carats. After
\ the N ahab had fhew’n us all, he ask’d us whether they would fell in our Coun­
try. We made anfwer, that they might have been for file in our Country,
provided they had not been o f a black W ater} for that in Europe we never
efteem’d any Diamonds, but fuch as were clean and white, having but a fmall '
efteem for any others. It feems, that when he firft undertook the Conqueft o f
this Kingdom for the King o f Golconda, they inform’d him that there w ere D ia­
mond Mines in it. Whereupon he fent twelve thoufand men to dig th ere ; who
in a whole years time could find no more than thofe five fmall Bags full. Where­
upon the *Nahab perceiving that they could find none but brown Stones, o f a
W ater enclining much more to black than white, thought it but lofs o f time,
and fo fent all the people back to their Husbandry.
The eleventh, the French Canoneers came all to the N abobs Tent, com­
plaining that he had not paid them the four months pay which he had pro­
mis’d th em } threatning him,that i f he did not difcharge it, they would leave him 5
to which the Nahab promis’d to g iv e them fatisfadtion the next day.
The twelfth,the Canoneers not failing to give him another vifit,th e Nahab paid
them three months, and promis’ d -to pay them the fo u rth before m onth
were o u t ; but fo foon as they had receiv’d their M o n e y , th e y fell a feafting
one another, fo that the Dancing Wenches carried away the greateft part o f
their Coin.
The thirteenth, the Nahab went to fee the G uns w h ich M a ille had under­
taken to call:. For which purpofe he had fent fo r Brafs from all parts, and
got together a great number o f Idols which th e S o ld iers had pillag’d out o f
the Pagods as they march’d along. N o w yo u m uft kn ow , that in Gandi-
cot there was one Pagod, laid to be the faireft in a ll India, wherein there were
feveral Idols, fome o f Gold, and others o f S ilv e r 5 -am ong the reft there were
fix o f Brafs, three fitting upon their H eels, an'd -three1 upon their Feet, ten foot
high. Thefe Idols were made ufe o f a m o n g the reft. B u t when M aille alio
had provided all things ready, he could not m ake th ofe fix Id ols run, that were
taken o£it o f the great Pagod o f Gandicot, though he m elted all the reft. He
try’d feveral ways, but it was impoffible for him to do if, whatever expence
the N ahab was at 5 nay though th e Nahab threaten’d to hang the Priefts for
having inchanted thofe Idols. And thus M aille could never make any more than
only one fingle piece, and that fp lit upon tria l; fo that he was forc’ d to leave
the work.unfinifh’d, and foon after le f t the Nahabs fervice.
The fourteenth, w e went to take our leaves o f the Nahab, and to know
what he had further to fay to us, concerning the Commodities we had then
fhew’ n him. But then he told us, he was bn lie at prefent about the examina- .
tiqn o f certain Offenders which w ere brought before him. For it is the cuftom
o f that Country, never to put a man in Prifon ; but as foon as the Offender is takfnV
he is examin’ d, and fentence is pronounc’d upon him, according to his crim e,
which is immediately executed} o r i f the party taken, be found innocent, lie is as
foon acquitted. And let the controverfie be o f what nature it w ill, it. is pre-
fently decided. .
The fifteenth in the morning, w e went to wait upon him again, and w ere im­
m ediately admitted into his Tent, where he fate With his, tw o Secretaries by
him. T he Nahab was fitting according to the cuftom o f the Country, bare-foots
like one o f our Taylors, with a great number o f Papers flicking between h;S Toes,
and others between the Fingers o f his Jeft hand, which Papers he drew fomtimes
from between hisToes,fomtimes from between hisF}ngers,and order’d what anfwers
Ibould be gi ven toevery one. After his Secretaries had w rote the anfwers,he caus’d
them to read them,and then took the Letters and feal’d th em himfelf} giving fome
to Foot Meffengers, others to Horfemen. For you muft know, that all thofe L e t­
ters which are lent by Foot-Polls all over India, go with more fpeed than
thofe which are carried by Horfemen. The reafbn is, becaufe at the end o f ,
* O r everf
 every two Leagues there are little Huts, where there are men always ready'
who are engag’ d to run away immediately ; fo that when one o f thefe men thaf/
to rie s the Letters, comes to one o f thefe Huts, he throws the Letters into the '
Hut, and then he that is appointed, runs with them to the next Stage. They
look upon it as an ill Omen, to give the Letters into the Meffengers hand! 5
but they mull be thrown at his feet, and he muft gather them up. It is- to
be obferv’ d alio, that the Highways in molt parts o f India, are like Walks o f
Trees 5 and that where there are no Trees, at every five hundred paces di-
ftance there are let up little Heaps o f Stones, which, the Inhabitants o f the
next Villages are bound to white-walh from time to time,- to the end thofe
Letter-Carriers may not mils their ways in dark and Rainy nights. While we hay’d
with the N ahab, certain Officers came to tell him, that they had brought cer­
tain Offenders to the door o f his Tent. He was above half an hour before he
return’d them any anfwer, writing on, and giving inftrudions to his Secretaries ;
but by and b y, all o f a fudden he commanded the Offenders to be brought in,
and after he had examin’ d them, and made them confefs the crime o f which
they flood accus’d, he was above an hour before he laid a word, ftill writing
on, and employing- his Secretaries. In the mean while feveral o f the Officers
o f the Arm y came to tender their refpetffs to him in. a very fubmiffive manner,
all whom he anfwer d only with a nod. There was one o f the Offenders which
w ere brought before him-, had broken into a Houfe,- and had kill’d the Mother
and three Children. He was condemned upon the ipot to have his Hands and
Feet cu t/o ff, and to be call out into the high- w a y , there to end his days
in mifery. Another had rob’d upon the H ighw ay; for which, the N ahab or­
der’d his Belly to be ript up, and himfelf to be caff upon the Dunghill. I know
not what crimes the other two bad committed, but their Heads were both
cu toff. When we perceiv’d him at a little leifure, we ask’d him whether he
had any other Commands to lay upon us, and whether he thought our Comr
modifies fitting to be fhew’ n to the King. He anfwer’d, that we might go to
GolcondayZxsA. that he would write to his Son in our behalf,and that his Letter would
be there fooner than we. And in order to our journey, he order’d us fixteen
Horiemen to convoy us, and to provide us neceffaries upon the Road, till we
came to a R iver thirteen Leagues from Gandicot, which no perfons are to pals,
unlefs they have the Nahabs Pafsport, to keep the Soldiers from, running from
their Colours. •

CH A P. X IX .

The Road from Gandicot to Goicoiida;

T H E fixteenth in the morning, w e let out o f Gandicot, accompanied with

the greatefl part o f the Canoneers, who brought us the firft days journey up­
on our w a y ; and that day having travel’d feven Leagues, we came to lye at
Cotepali, -
The feventeenth, the Canoneers took their leaves o f u s ; and w e kept on our
.journey with our Horlem en; and having travel’d fix L eag u e s, we lay at a
Village call’d Coteen, on the other fide o f the R iver, which is very broad. So
foon as w e had crofs’d it, the Horlemen took their leaves o f u s ; and though
w e made them a prefent o f Roupies, to buy them Tobacco and Betle, yet we
could not perfwade them to take it. Their Ferry-Boats wherewith they crofs
the R iver, are like broad bottom’d W icker *FIaskets, cover’d without with Oxe’s
Hides ; at the bottom whereof they la y certain Faggots, over which theyfpread
a piece o f old Tapellry, to keep the W ares and Merchandife from the wet. As
for their Coaches and Waggons, they fallen them between two Boats, by the
Wheels and the P o le ; the Horfes Iwimming all the while, one man whip­
ping them on behind, while another in the Boat holds them up by the Head-
Stall.
'Stall. As fo r'th e Oxen that carry the Luggage, as foon as ever they come to
the River fide, and that they have unladed them, they only drive them into
the R iv e r , and they will fwim over o f themfelves. There are four men
that ftand upright at the four Corners o f the B o a t, and row it along with
broad pieces o f W ood, made like Shovels. I f they do not all ftrike their
ftroakes together, but that any o f the four mifles, the Boat will turn round
two or three tim e s; and the ftream carries it a great w ay lower than where
they intended to land.
The eighteenth, after five hours travel w e arriv’ d at Morimal.
The nineteenth, w e travel’d nine Leagues, and lay at Santefeia,
The twentieth, w e travel’d nine Leagues more, and lay at Goremeda.
The one and twentieth, after fix hours travel, w e {pent the night at ICamatij
a Frontier Town in the Kingdom o f Golconda, till the Conqueft o f Carnatiea by
Jidirgimola.
The two and twentieth, w e travel’d feven Leagues, and came to lye at Eme-
Upata. When w e w ere about h alf the way, we met above four thoufand per-
fons, men and women ; and above twenty P a llets, in every one whereof was
an Idol. They were adorn’d with Coverings o f Sattin, purfled with Gold, and
V elvets with Gold and Silver Fringe. Some o f thefe Pallekfs were born by
four men ; others by eight, and fome by twelve, according as the Idols were
in bigneft and weight. On each fide o f the Pallekie, walk’d a man, with a large
Fan in his hand, five Foot in compaft, made o f Oftriches and Peacocks Feathers*
o f various colours. The Handle o f the Fan was five or fix foot long, laid all
over w ith Gold and Silver, about the thickneft o f a French Crown. E very one
was officious to carry one o f thofie Fans, to keep the Flies from the Idols
Face. There was another Fan which was carried clofe by the Idol, fomewhat
larger than the former, without a handle, and was born ;uft like a Target. It
w as adorn’d with Feathers o f feveral colours, and little Bells o f Gold and Sil­
v e r, round about the edges. He that carried it, went always near the Idol upon
the fame fide, to (hade the Id o l; for to have ftrnt the Curtains would have
been too hot. Ever and anon, he that, carried that fort o f Fan, brandifh’d it
in the air, to make the Bells ring ; which they prefum’d to be a kind o f Paftime
to the Idol. All thefe people with their Idols came from Brampoar, and the
adjacent parts, and w ere going to vifit their great Ram, that is to lay,- their
ch ief G od , who Hands in a Pagod in the Territories o f the King o f CarnaHca.
T hey had been about thirty day? upon the Road, and were to travel fourteen
or fifteen more, before they came to this Pagod. One o f my Servants, who
was a N ative o f Brampour,, and o f the fame Superftition, beg’d me to give him
leave to bear his Gods company, telling me withall, that he had made a V ow
long fince to go this Pilgrimage. I was conftrain’d to let him go. For had I
not given him leave, I knew he would have taken it, by reafon he had much
acquaintance and kindred among the Rabble. About two months after, he re­
turn’d again to us to Surat, and becaufe he had faithfully ferv’d Monfieur fardin
and my felf, w e made no fcruple to take him again. Asking him fome queftions
about his Pilgrim age, he related to me this following paflage: Six days after
he left me, all the Pilgrim s had made an account to go and lye at fuch a Vil­
lage, to which before they came they were to crofs a River, that has but little
W ater in Summer, fo that it is eafily fordable. But when it rains in India, t ie
W ater falls with fuch a force, that k feems to be a perpendicular deluge; and
jn lefs than an hour or two, a fmall River fhafi fwell three or four toot high.
T he Rains having overtaken thofe Pilgrims, the R iver was fwelPd in that man­
ner, that it was impoffible to paft it that day. N ow becaufe it is not neceiiary
for Travellers in India to carry provifions, efpecially for the Idolaters, who never
eat any thing that ever had life ; in regard that in the leaft Village you may
m eet w ith abundance o f Rice, Meal, B u tter, M ilk Meats, Lentils, and other
Pulfe befides Sugar, and Sweet-Meats, dry and moift. The people were very
much furpriz’d, having no Victuals, when they came and faw the River fweli d.
In fhort, they had nothing to give their Children to e a t ; which caus’d great
lamentations among them. In this extrem ity the chiefeft o f their Priefts fat,himfelf
down in the midft o f them ,and covering him felf with a fheet,began to cry out that
they
they who would have any Victuals fhould come to him ; when they came, he/
ask’d every one what they would have, whether Rice, or Meal, and for h o w ;
many perfons and then lifting up the corner o f the fheet, with a great Ladle
he diftributed to every one that which they asked fo r ; fo that the whole m rftn
tude o f four thoufand Souls was fully fatisfi d. M y Servant did not only1 'tell
me this ftory, but going feveral times afterwards to Brampeur, where I was
known to the chief men in the C ity, I enquir’d o f feveral, who fwore to me
b y their Ram, Ram, that it was truth. Though I am not bound to believe- it.
The twenty-third, we arriv’d at Doupar, after w e had travel’d eight leagues,
and crofs’d feveral Torrents.
The twenty-fourth, we travel’d four leagues, and came to Tap ante 5 where
there is a great Pagod upon a Hill, to which there is a circular afcent o f Free-
ltone every w a y ; the leaft Stone being ten foot long, and three broad: and
there are feveral Figures o f Damons in the Pagod. Among the reft, there is
the Statue o f Venus, ftanding upright, with feveral lafcivious Figures about
her ; all which Figures are o f one piece o f Marble j but the Sculpture is v ery
ordinary.
The twenty-fifth, w e travel’d eight leagues, and came to Mamll.
The twenty-fixth, w e travel’d eight leagues more, and came to lye at 214a-
chelt.
The twenty-feventh, w e travel’d not above three leagues, being to crofs a
wide River in Boats like Panniers ; which ufually takes up half the day j for
when you come to the River fide, there is neither Pannier nor any thing elfe
to crofs it. There was only one man, with whom we bargain’d for our paflage;
who to try whether our Money were good or no, made a great fire and threw
it into the flame, as he does to all others that pafs that way. I f among the
Roupies which he receives, he meets with any one that turns a little black, you
muft give him another, which he prefently heats red h o t; when he finds his
Money to be good, he calls to his Companions to fetch the Manequin or Flasket-
Boat, which lay hid before in fome other part o f the River. For thefe fort
o f people are fo cunning, that if they defcry any Paflengers afar off, they w ill
row their Mamequin to the other fide, becaufe they will not be conftrain’4 to
carry any perfon over without Money. But the Money being paid, the man
that receives it calls his Companions together, who take the Boat upon their
Shoulders, and when they have launch’d s it#into the River, they fetch their
Paflengers and goods from the other fide.
The twenty-eighth, having travel’d five leagues, they came to a place call’d
Ddbir-P inta.
The twenty-ninth, after tw elve hours travel, we came to lye at Holcora.
The thirtieth, w e travel’d eight leagues, and came to fpend our night at Pe-
ridera.
The firft o f OElober, after w e had travel’d ten leagues, we came to. lye at
Atenara. This is a ffoufe o f Pleafure, which the prefent King’s Mother caus’d
to be built. There are many Chambers in a great Piazza belonging to it, for
the convenience o f Travellers.
You muft take notice, that in all the Countries where we travePd, as well in
the Kingdom o f Carnatica , as the Kingdoms o f Golconda and Vijapour, there
are no Phyficians, but fuch as attend Kings and Princes. As for the common
people, after the Rains are fall’n, and that it is time to gather Herbs, you fhall
fee every morning the good women o f the Towns going into the Fields, to
gather fuch Simples which they know to be proper for fuch Difeafes as reign
In the Fam ily. ’Tis very true, that in great Cities there may be one or two
men that have fome common Receipts, who go every morning and fit in fome
known places, to give their Remedies to fuch as enquire for them, whether
they be Potions or Plaifters. Firft th ey feel their Pulfes, and then giving them
fome rem edy, for which they do not demand the value o f fix p e n c e t h e y
alfo at the fame time mutter certain words between their teeth.
The fecond o f October, We had but four leagues to travel before we came
to Golcfinda, W e went immediately to the Lodging o f a young Dutch Chi-
rurgion, belonging to the King, whom the Sieur Chetear, Envoy from Batavia
 ( had left at>Golconda upon the King’s earneft entreaty. The King was always
■4 very much troubl’ d w ith the head-ach : for which reafon the Phyfitians had or-
' ’ der’d that he fhould be let blood in four places under the tongue ; but there was
no perfon that would undertake to do i t : for the N atives o f the Countrey un-
'• derftand nothing o f Chirurgery. N ow before that Peter de Lany for that was
the D/tfc/'j-Ghirurgion’ s name, was entertain’d in the King’s fervice, he was ask’d
whether he could let blood ? To which he anfwer’d, that there was nothing fb
eafy in Chirurgery. Some few days after the King lent for him, and gave°him
to underhand, that he was refolv’d to be let blood the next day in four parts un­
der the tongue, as the Phyfitians had order’d, but he fhould take a care o f not
draw ing away above eight ounces.' D e Lan returning the next day to Court,
was lead into a Chamber by three Eunuchs, and four Old-women, who carri’d
him to a Bath, and after they had undreft him, and wafh’ d him, efpecially his
hands ; they anointed him w ith A rom atick-drugs, and inftead o f his own
European-Qothez, they brought him a Robe according to the fafhion o f the
Countrey. A fter that, they brought him before the K in g ; where he found four
little Porringers o f Gold, which the Phyfitians, who were prelent, had weigh’d.
In fhort, he let the King blood under the tongue in four parts, and' perform’d his
bufinefs fo well,that when the blood came to be weigh’d, it weigh’d but bare eight
ounces. The King was fo fatisri’d with the Operation, that he gave the Ghirur-
gion three-hunder’d Pagods, .which comes to almoft feven-hunder’d Crowns.
The Young-Queen and the Queen-Mother understanding what he had done, were
refolv’ d to be let-blood too. But I believe it was rather out o f a curiofity to
fee the Chirurgion, than out o f any necefllty which they had to be let-blood.
For he was a handfom young-man 3 and perhaps they had never feen a ftranger
neer at hand, for at a diftance, it is no Improbable thing, in regard the Women are
fhut up in fuch places where they may fee, but not be feen. Upon this, de Lan
w as carri’d into a Chamber where the fame Old-women that had waited on him
before he let the King blood, ftript up his arm, and walh’d it, but more efpecially
his hands 5 which when they w ere dry , they rubb’d again with fweet-Oils
as before. That being done, a Curtain was drawn, and the Queen ftretching out
her arm through a hole, was let-blood ; as was the Queen-Mother afterwards
in the fame manner. The Queen gave him fifty Pagods, and the Queen-Mother
th irty, w ith fem e pieces o f Cl oath o f Gold.
T w o days after We went to wait upon the N dbaV s Son, but were told we
could not fpeak with him that day '5 the next day receiving the fame anfwer, w e
w ere advertiz’d upon enquiry, that w e might wait long enough in that manner j
that he was a young Lord that never ftirr’d from the K in g ; or that i f he did
leave the Court, it Was only to keep his Mififes company in his own H aram .
The young Chirurgion feeing us fo delaid, offer’d to fpeak to the King’s firft Phy-
fjtian, who was alfo o f the King’s Council, and who had teftifi’d a great affeCtion
toward the B atavian -E n xo y, and for de Lan him felf; for which reafon, he thought
he might embrace an opportunity to do him a kindnefs. In fhort, de, Lan had no
fooncr°fpoke to him, but he feat for us, and having, after much civility fheWn us,
inform’ d him felf o f the caufe o f our coming, he defir’d us to fbew him our.
Pearls, which w e did the next day. After he had view ’d them, he made us feal
them up a^ain in our own bags : for all that is prefented to the King muff be
feal’d with the M erchants-Seal; and when the King has had a fight o f the Com­
m odity, it is feal’d up with his own Seal, to prevent any fraud. Thereupon we
left the5Pearls, fo feal’d up, in his hands, who promis’d to fhew them to the
K in g , and t o 'g iv e us a good account o f the truft w e had put into his

^ T h e next day about nine o f the Clock before noon w e went to the River to
fee how they wafh the King’s and the Great Noble-men’s Elephants. The Ele­
phant goes up to the belly in the water, and lying down upon one fide, with his
trunk he throws the water feveral times upon that fide which lies out o f the
water • and when he has foak’ d himfelf fufficiently, the Mailer comes with a
kind o f a Pumice-ftone, and rubbing the Elephant’ s-skin, cleanfes it from all the
filth that clings to it. Here fome believe, that when this creature is once laid
down it cannot rife o f its f d f 5 which is contrary to what t have feen. For
5 When
 when the Matter has well-cleans’d the one fide, he commands the Elephant to l
turn the other, which the beaft immediately d o es; and when both fides are /
weli-walh’ d, he comes out o f the River, and ftays a-while upright upon th e,'
bank-fide to dry himfelf. Then comes the Matter with a pot full o f fome red or
yellow colour, and ftreaks the beaft in the forehead, about the eyes, upon the>
breaft, and all behind, rubbing him afterwards with Oil o f Coco’s to ftrengthcn
the nerves ; and fome when all is done, he fattens a gilt-Plate upon their fore­
heads.
The fifteenth, the chief Phyfitian fent for us, and return’d us our bags again,
feal’d with the King’s Signet, wherewith his Majetty had feal’d them after he had
look’d upon them. He demanded the price; which we told him : Whereupon,
an Eunuch that flood by him, and wrote down every thing, wondring at the high-
price o f the Pearls, told us that we took the King o f Golconda’?, Courtiers for
perfons that had neither knowledg nor judgm ent; and that he faw every day
things o f greater value brought to the King. I briskly retorted upon the
Eunuch, that he w a s better skill’d in the price o f a young Slave, than the value
o f a J e w e l ; and fo faying, w e put up our Pearls, and return’d to our Lodg­
ing. The next day w e fet out from Golconda for Surat, in w h ich Road there is
nothing confiderable but w h a t I have already defcrib’d, only this is to be re­
member’d, that w e w e r e not gone above five days journey from Golconda, but
the King, w h o had not heard in t w o days after w e w e r e gone, w h a t I had re­
torted upon the Eunuch, fent four or five Ilorfe-men after us w ith Orders, i f
they overtook us, to bring us back : but in regard w e w e r e got one days
journey into the Territories o f the M ogul before one o f the Horfe-men over­
took us, (for the reft ftaid upon the Frontiers o f the tw o Kingdoms; ) I, that
kn ew the humour o f the Countrey very w e ll, made anfvver for my fe lf and
Companion, that at that time our bufinefs w ou ld not permit u s; and that there­
fore w e begg’ d in moft humble manner his M ajeity’s pardon; and after­
w a rd s I made my Companion a llo w my reafons.
Being arriv’d at Surat, Monfiem ds fa r dm dy’d o f an overflow ing o f choler:
And I made a full account to have gone to M gra to Sba-jehan w h o then reign’d.
. But at the fame inftant the Nahab, Sha-E fl-K an , the King’s Brother-in-Lavv,
and Governor o f the Province o f Ga^erat, fent one o f the principal Officers o f
his Hcufe to me from Amadabat, to tell me he underftood I had fome extraor­
dinary Je w e ls to fe ll; for vvhich reafon he w ould be glad to fee me, and that
he w ould pay me as much for them as the King fhould do. I receiv’d this
Meflage w h ile Sicur de fa r din lay fick, and the ninth day after his death 1 got
to Am adabat, and fpake w ith the N ahab. N o w in regard he w a s a man that
underftood Je w e ls perfectly w e ll, w e prefently came to an agreem ent: fo that
w e had no difpute together, but about the quality o f the Coin to be paid.
He a llo w ’d me t w o forts to choofe, Roupies o f G old, or Roupies o f S ilv e r :
but the Prince leaning to intimate to me that he fhould not be w ell-pleas’d to
let fuch a Sum in Silver be fcen to go out o f his Houfe, he vvifh’d I w o u ld
rather accept m y payment in Roupies o f Gold, that made not fuch a great
heap. I contented to his d e fire ; and he fhew’d me very fair Gold, and many
Roupies, that had not feen the Sun in a long time. But in regard the price
currant o f aR oupy o f Gold,is not above fourteen Roupies o f Silver,and for that he
would have had me taken m y Roupies at fourteen and a half, or at leaft for
fourteen and a quarter, it had like to have fpoil’d our bargain; for I gave him
to underftand, that in fo large afum, it would not quit coft to lofe a fourth
part in every Roupy o f Gold.A t length to pleafe him, I was forc’d to take
the Gpld at fourteen Roupies o f Silver and an eighth part. Thus a Prince
qtherwile magnificent and gen erou s, ye t in matter o f buying and felling,
would needs approve himfelf to be a good Husband. While I flay’d at Am a-
dabat, he fent me every day to m y Lodging four Silver Plates o f Pilaw, and
other excellent f ) y e t ; and one day that the King had lent him as many Apples
as ten. or tw elve men could carry, he lent me as many as for their rarity at
Am adabat,, w e re worth three or four hundred Roupies. Befides all this, he
gave me a compleat Habit o f Honour, with a Sword and a Cangiar, worth a
jehoufand R o u p ie s; and revivin g alfo to give me a Horfe, he ask’ d me what
, j kind
Book I Travels i n l NviA. 105
kind o f one I would have. I told him, fince he was pleas’d to give me my
fh oice, that I, rather defir’d a young lively Horfe, rather than an old one.
Thereupon he fent m e one that was fo given to bounding and prancing, that
he-threw a young Hollander out o f the Saddle 5 but upon m f defire to have
him chang’d, he le n t me another, which I fold afterwards for four hundred
Roupies.
Prom Am adabat I return’ d to S u ra t; from Surat I travel’d again to Gol-
conda, and thence to the Mine to buy Diamonds. From whence returning back
for Surat, I refolv’d for Perjia,
\ ' .- I i

C H A P . XX.
My return from Surat to Qrmus.
" : it ) 5"' - i ( V ; ’ ■; • ' ; T

B Eing upon m y return to Surat from the Diamond Mine, I underftood that
. the War was proclaim’d between the Englijh and the Hollanders, and the
latter would fend no more Ships into Perjia. The Englijh alfo gaye out the
fame relblutions 5 for indeed they had lent four Ships into Persia, which they
expedted back every hour. While I was thus in fear o f flaying long in a
place where I had no bufinels, there arriv’d at Surat five great Dutch Ships
from B atavia 5 three o f which being rather Men o f War, than Merchant-Men,,
w ere order’d to be unladen with all lpeed , with an.intention to look out
for the four Englijh Veffels that were expedted out o f Perjia, The other two
w ere appointed to follow tw o or three days after, being in that time to
take in provifions for the whole Fleet.
In one o f thole two Veffels I embark’d, and letting fayl the eighth o f Ja ­
nuary, We came before D iu the twelfth, where w e overtook the other three
Ships. There it was debated at a Council o f W ar, what courle to fleer to
m eet the E n g lijh ; and it was refolv’d, that .we lhould fleer away for Scindi,
where w e arriv’d the twentieth o f the lame month, and flay’d there till the
twenty-eighth, and then letting fail with- a fair Wind, w e landed atrr Gomrom
the feventh o f M arch,

The End of the Firfl Book.

 T R A V E L

IN

I N D I A .
i \

The Second Book.

Containing an Hifiorical and political Tsefcription
of the Empire of the Great Mogul.
j; [{[ T- i r .
1 . .A,.{1(18 VvV-:.'.,. : . . . ■' . ‘ r ' ' . - ...
-*1— " " " V ............................................................ 'M ' ------------------------ ~ 1 ■ 1 ■ "" " ■ 1 •" ' ' 'T '

CHAP. I.
A Relation of the laft Wars of Indoiftan; which gives an infight
into the freferit Eftate of the Empire and Court oj the Moguls.
. y* • ' } r f, ‘ -

I H ave written this Hiftory in fuch manner, as I knew things to he trans­

acted, during my ftay in the Country ; leaving it to the Reader to make his
own reflections as he pleafes ; it being fuflicient for me to make a faith1-
ful defcription o f the Potent Empire o f the Moguls', according to the
Obfervations I have taken upon the place.
This great and vaft Em pire, which contains the greateft part o f Indoiftan,
and which extends from the Mountains on this fide the R iver Indus, to the
Mountains on the other fide o f Ganges; borders Eaftward upon the Kingdoms
o f Aracan, Tipra, and Afia. Toward the Weft upon Perfta, and the Vsbeg Tartars.
Southward upon the Kingdoms o f Golconda and Vifapour. Northward it runs
u pas far as the Mountain Caucafus. North-Eaftward the Kingdom o f Bantam,t
Whence comes our M usk, parts it. North-Weftward it borders upon the Coun­
try o f Chegathay, or the Vsbegs.
They are call’d Moguls, that is, white o f complexion ; for the laft Conque­
rors o f the Indies w ere W h ites, the N atives .being-all Brown, or Olive-colour.
Ateteng-sueb, the prCfent Em peror , is‘ the'eleventh’ in a direCt line, o f the
Defcendants from the great Temur-Leng, commonly call’d Tamerlane; the ex­
tent and renown o f whole Conquefts, from China to Poland, has exceeded all
the aftions o f the greateft Captains o f the former Ages. His Succeflors com-
pleated the Conqueft o f z\\ India between the :OTP JRivers, w ith ,the deftruCtion
o f feveral Kings. So that Aureng-z.eb has at this time under his Dominion,
the Territories o f Gonnerat, Decan-Dehly, Multan, Labor, Kajhemire, Bengala,
and many other T erritories; not to mention feveral Raja’s, or petty Kings, who
pay him Tribute, and are his Vaflals. The Succeftion o f the Kings o f India is
as follow s :
i . Termur-Leng., that is to fay, the Lam e, becaufe one o f his Legs was fhorter
than the other, lyes buried at Samarchand, in the Country o f Chegathay, or the
Vskfg Tartars, being the place o f hi? N ativity.
2. M ir am-
.jrJL ^ '
B o o k II. T r a v e ls in I n d ia . 107
2. M ir am-Cha, the Son o f Temurleng.
3. Saltan1 Mahomet, the Son o f Miram-Cha,
4. Sultan Aboufaid-Mirz.a, the Son o f Mahomet
5. Hameth-Sheck^, the Son o f Sultan Aboufaid.
6 . Sultan Babur, that is, the Valiant Prince, the firft Mogul thatwas o f greateft
power in India. He dy’ d in the year I J 3 2 .
7 . Homajon, that i s , the Happy, the Son o f Sultan Babur, dy’d in the year
iy jz .
8. Abdul Feta Gelal-Edd.in Mahomet, commonly call’d Akabar, that is, the
G reat, reign’d fifty four years, and dy’d in the year i6 o y .
9. Sultan Selim, otherwife call’d fehan-guir Patjha, that is, the Victorious
Em peror o f the World, fucceeded Akabar his Father, and dy’d 16 2 7 . He had
four Sons, the eldeft nam’d Sultan Kofrou, the fecond Sultan Kourom, the third
Sultan Fervid, the fourth Cha-Daniel.
t o . Sultan Kourom, the fecond o f the four, fucceeded fehan-guir his Father j
and was acknowledg’ d by all the Nobility, at the Caftle o f A gra, by the Name
o f Cha-Bedin Mahomed, but he would be call’d Cha-jehan, that is, King o f the
World.
1 1. Aureng-teb, that is, the Ornament o f the Throne, is the prefent M o­
narch.
The following Figure fhews you what forts o f pieces the Kings caufe to
be thrown among the people when they come to the Throne. They repre­
sent the Arms or Signets o f the Kings which I have nam’d. The biggeft, in
the middle, was Cha-jehan’ s, the tenth King. Thefe pieces are molt o f them
S ilv e rj there being very few o f Gold. And as for Aureng-z.eb, he never coin’d
any particular pieces to throw away at his Coronation.

V ' ^ A *

\ \ A ^ J s

.A P 2 - - -------T te r
10 8 T ra vels in I ndia. - Part. II, /
The Great M ogul is without all queftion the richeft and raoft potent Mo­
narch o f A S a. ; the Territories which he polM es, being his owh Hereditary
Poffeflion ; and being abfolute Mafter o f all the Territories whence he receives his
Revenues. For in the Territories o f this Prince, the great Lords are but the'
Royal Receivers, who give an^ccount o f the King’s Revenues to the Governours .
o f the Provinces, and they to the chief Treafurers and Controllers o f the E x­
chequer.; ‘ j

CHAP. II.

Of the Sicknefs and fufifios'd Death- of Cha-jehan, King of India, and

the Rebellion of the Trinees his Sons.

His great Ring had reign’d above forty years, not fo much as a King over
T his Subjects, but rather as a Father over his Family and Children. Info much,.-
that during his Reign there was fuch a ftriftnefs in the Civil Government, and
particularly for the fecurity o f the High-ways, that there was never any oc-
cafion to put any man to death for Robbery. In his declining years he fanci’d:
a young Lady Of an extraordinary Beauty, that was not above thirteen years
o f ag e; and becaufe the ftrength o f nature would not permit him to fatisfie
his paffion, he took certain provocatives, which were fo hot, that he fell there­
upon into a diftemper that had al'moft kill'd him. This oblig’d him to fliut
him felf up in his Haram, together with his Women, for two or three months;
during which time he appear’d very rarely to the people, and that at a great
diftance too, which made them believe he was dead. For they arc oblig’d by
Cuftom to Ihew themfelves to the people three times in a week, or in fifteen
days at mod. XT
Cha-jehan had fix Children, four Sons and two Daughters. The Name or
the eldeft was D ara-C ha, the fecond was call'd Sultan Sujab, the third A ureng-
xeb, and the fourth M orad-Bakche. The eldeft o f his two Daughters was call d:
Begum-Saheb, and the name o f the fecond m s Raucbenara Begum .
Cha-jehan lov’d all his four Sons alike, and had made them Governours or
Vice-Roys o f four o f his principal Provinces or Kingdoms. D ara-Cha, who
was the eldeft, ftay’d with his Father in Dehly, and had the Government o f
the Kingdom o f Saudi, into which he put a Deputy. Sultan Sujab had for his
fhare the Government o f Bengala. Aureng-xeb was Vice-Roy of the Kingdom
o f D ecan ; and M orad-Bakche o f the Kingdom o f Guteerat. But though Cha-
jehan endeavour’ d to give equal content to his four Sons, their Ambition was
not fatisfi’d with this divifion, but ruin’ d all the good defigns which .0 kind a
Father had lay’d to preferve peace among his Children.
cha-jehan being thus fick , and retir’d into the Womens quarter, without
{hewing him felf for many days ; the report ran that he was dead, and that
Dara-Cha conceal’d his death, to gain time to provide for h .m lelf and to ie-
cure the Empire. True it is, that the King believing he fhould dye, commanded
D ara-Cha to call together all the Omrahs or Lords, and to feat him felf upon
the Throne, which belong’d to him, as the eldeft o f his Brothers. H ealfotefti-
fi’d the defire he had to fee him quietly fetled in the peaceable polleflion 01
the Empire. And this intention o f his was look’d upon as the more juft, in re­
gard the other three Brothers had been for fome time obferv’ d to have leis
refpeft for their Father, than D a ra -C h a . D ara-Cha, who honour'd aria re je c t­
ed the King with a realtendernefs, made anfwer to the K in g , that he deiird
o f Heaven nothing more than the-prefervation o f his M ayflies life, and that lo
long as Heaven fhould continue that prefervation, he fhould take « to te a
greater honour to continue himfelf a Sub ject, than to afeend the 1 ro ■
indeed he was never abfent from his Father, that he might be t e ^ “ f
to ferve him in his ficknefs; and becaufe he would be prefent upon all occa-
 lions, he lay by his Fathers Bed-fide, upon a Tapeftry fpread upon the ground.
During the falfe report o f the death o f Cha-jehan, his three other Sons im­
mediately rebell’d, every one laying claim to their Fathers Crown. M o ra t-
Bakche the youngefr, who had the Government o f Gazer at, lent away Forces
immediately to befiege Surat, the moft confiderable Port, and molt frequented
o f any other all over India. The C ity made no refiftance, for the Walls are
very weak, and broken down in feveral places. But they defended the Citta-
del, where the Treafure was, very ftou tly; though the young Ambitious Prince
did all he could to make himfelf Matter o f it. Chabas-Kan, one o f his Eu­
nuchs, w ho was General o f his Army, an induftrious and aftive perfon, and who
earri’d on the Siege with all the experience o f an old Captain ; when he faw
he could not carry the Cattle by main force, caus’d it to be undermin’d in two
places, by the affiftance o f an European.. Engineer, which took effeft ; fo that
upon the twenty-ninth o f December, 16 ^ 9 , he threw down a good part o f the
Walls, and fill’d up the M o a t; which very much terrifi’d the befieg’d. But
they prefently recover’d their courage, and though they were but a fmali num­
ber, they defended themfelves for above forty days, to the great dammage and
{laughter o f M orat-Bakche's Army. Chabas-Kan, provok’d at fuch a vigorous
refiftance, fought for all the Wives and Children, Parents and Kindred o f the
Canoneers that were within the Cattle, to place them at the head o f his men,
when they made their approaches. He alfo Pent one o f the Brothers o f the
Governor o f the place, to offer him advantageous conditions. But the G over­
nor being a very loyal perfon, and uncertain o f the Kings death, rejefted all
his offers. The Eunuch perceiving the Refolution o f the Governour, threaten’d
the befieged to kill all their Wives and Children, Parents and Kindred, i f they
did not furrender the place the next day. But neither did any o f thofe confi-
derations prevail, till at length the breach being made w id er, and the number
o f defendants decreafmg, the Governor fnrrender’d upon honourable conditions 5
which were punctually perform’d by Chabas-Kan, who feiz’d upon all the Trea-
fure, and carried it to A m a d a b a t ; where M orat-Bakche was bufily employ’d
in fqueezing the people to get Money.
The news o f the taking Surat being brought to this Prince, he prefently
provided him felf a Throne, and fitting upon it on the day which was appointed
for the Ceremony, he caus’d him felf to be declared King, not only o f G uze-
rat, but o f all the Dominions o f Cha-jehan his Father. At the fame time he
alfo coin’d Money, and fent new Governors into all the Cities. But his tottering
Throne, not being well fix’d, fell foon to the Ground ; and the youngeft o f all
the Brothers, for having ufurp’ d a Scepter that no ways appertain’d to him,
was confin’d to a fevere lmprifonment. Prince D ara-Cha fain would have re­
liev’d S u r a t ; but it was impoffible. For befides that he was butted in the affiftance
o f his Father the King, his fecond Brother Sultan-Sujah, more powerful than
M o ra t-B a ke he, found him far more work to do. He was already advanc’d into
the Kingdom o f Labor-, having abfolutely reduc’ d the Kingdom o f Bengala. A ll
that D ara-C h a could do, was to fend Soliman Checour his eldeft Son, with an
Army againft Sultan Sujah. The young Prince having defeated his U nde and
driven him back into Bengala, the Frontiers w hereof he fecur’d with good G ar-
rifons return’ d to D ara-C ha his Father. In the mean time M orat-Bakche, ac­
knowledg’d for King in the Kingdom o f Guzerat, bends all his Force and Coun-
fels to make him felf Emperor o f the Indies , to deftroy his Brothers, and to
fix his Throne either in A g r a or jehanabat. _ r .
Whiles thefe things pafs’d, A ureng-zeb as ambitious, but more crafty ttian
his Brothers, lets them alone to kindle the firft F ire s; and conceals, his own
defigns, which afterwards appear’ d fo much to the damage o f the reft. At
firft he feign’d to lay no claim to the Empire, but liv’ d a private life, like a
D erv ich , or Religious Hermit. And the better to a ft his part, he declar d to
his younger Brother M o ra t-B a k ch e , whom he faw to be fo ambitious, how
willing he fhould be to affift him in his defigns; telling him, that becaufehe
merited the Empire by his Valour, he would aid him with his Money and ms
Forces to overthrow D ara-C ha, who only flood in his way The young Prince,
blinded with the hopes o f his good Fortune, eattly believ’d Aureng-zeb. And
 fo joining Forces together, he advances t o w a r d s t o .make him felf Matter
o f that City. D ara-C ha marches to meet th em ; but the Battel was as im­
prudently mannag’ d by him, as fortunately fought by his Brothers. For D ara-
Cha, confiding too much in the principal Officers o f his Army, againft the ad­
vice o f his General, who was his chief Minifter o f State, and faithful to him >
thought him felf fare o f th e .V ic to ry , by falling on before bis Brothers had
time to repofe themfeives. The firft o’nfet was v ery rude and bloody, where
M orat-Bakche , full o f fire and courage, fighting like a Lyon, was (hot with five
Arrow s into the body. The Victory leaning to D ara-Cha , Aureng-zeb retreated;
but foon turn’d head again, when he law thofe T ray tors advancing to his aid,,
who were in the Army o f D ara-Cha, and who had treacherously deferted him,
after he had loft his beft Officers and his General. With this affiftance Aureng-
z.eb renews the fight againft D a ra -C h a ; who feeing him felf betray'd, and unable
to maintain the fight with the fmall number o f men which he had left, retreats
to A gra , where the King his Father was, who began to mend. The King ad­
vis’d his Son to retire to the Fortrefs o f Dehly , and to carry the Treafure that
was in A g ra with him ; which he did without delay. Thus the V ifto ry fell in-
tirely to Aareng-zeb and M orat-Bakche , who before the end o f the Battel, be­
ing weaken’d with the lofs o f blood, was forc’ d to retire to his Tent, to have
his wounds dreft. N ow it was an eafie thing for Anreng-zeb to gain thofe
Traytors, as well by reafon o f the vaft Treafures which he had, as alfb for that
the Indians are very inconftant, and want generality. Befides, the Commanders
are generally Fugitive Perfians , perfons o f little w orth , who are altogether
for them that give moft. Cha-Efi-IC an, who was Uncle to thefe four Princes,
whofe Mother was the King’s Sifter,went over to Aare.ng-z.eb with the greateft part
o f the principal Commanders that had adher’ d to D ara-C ha , and M orat-Bakche ,
and had Horlaken their Matters. M orat-Bakche then began to fee his Error in
having trailed Aureng-z.eb, who feeing himfelf favour’ d by Fortune, loft no time
to accomplilh his ends. Thereupon M orat-Bakche fends to his Brother for the
h alf o f the Treafure that he had feiz’d, that he might retire to Cuzerat. But
A ureng-zeb for anfwer allur'd him, that he had no other defign than to ad­
vance him to the Throne, to which purpofe he defir’d to confer with him by
word o f mouth. M orat-Bakche in order to that, finding him felf indifferently
well recover’d o f his wounds, goes to vifit his Brother, who kindly welcom’ d
him, extoll’d his courage, and told him he deferv’d the beft Empire o f the
World. The young Prince was charm’d by the melody o f fuch fweet language.
While his Eunuch, Shabas-Kan , did all he could to make him fenfible o f the
lhares that were laid for him. But when M orat-Bakche fhould have taken the
Eunuchs advice, it was too la t e ; for Aureng-zeb had already laid his plot to
' deftroy him. He invites M orat-Bakche to a Feaft ; and the more the one ex-
cufes himfelf, the more the other preffes him to come. The young Prince
perceiving he would take no denial, refolv'd to go, for fear o f difcovering the
miftruft he had, although he verily believ’d that that day would be the laft o f
his life, and that fome deadly poyfon was brew’d for him. However, he w as
deceiv'd in that particular, for A ureng-zeb not aiming at his life th en , con­
tented him felf only to deprive him o ff his liberty, and fo inftead o f advancing
him to the T h ro n e, fent him away, to be fafely kept in the Cattle o f G a-
vale or,

CH AP.
 CHAP. III.
O f the Imprisonment of Cha-jehati, and how he was punijh'd by
Aureng-zeb his third Son, for the injuftice he had done Trince
Boulaki his Nephew, the Grandchild of Gehan-guir, to whom, as
to the Son of the Eldeli Son, the Empire of the Moguls be­
long'd,
V

G Ehan-gulr, King o f India , Son o f Achbar, and. Grandchild to Houmajonj

reign’d very peaceably during the {pace o f twenty-three years, equally
b elov’d both by his Subjects and Neighbours. But his life feem’d too long
to his two Sons, who w ere both ambitious to reign. The eldeft rais’d a power­
ful A rm y near Labor, with an intention to have furpriz’ d his Father, and to
have poffefs’d him felf o f the Throne by force. The King incens’d at the info-
lence o f his Son, refolv’d to chaftife h im ; meets him with a confiderable Arm y,
defeats him, and takes him Prifoner, with many o f the moft confiderable N o­
b ility that adher’d to him. A fter which, out o f a natural affection to his Chil­
dren, he lav'd his life, but put out his Eyes. And when he was blind he al­
w ays kept him about his perlbn, with an intention to have prefer’d his eldeft
Son Boulaki to theCrown, whofe Father had already many Sons, but all very young.
But Sultan Courom, hisfecond Son, believing it his right to be prefer’d before a
N ephew , refblv’ d to leave no ftone unturn’d to rem ove him from his hopes,
and to fettle him felf in polTeffion before the death o f his Father. However
he conceal’d his intentions from Him, appearing outwardly v e ry obedient to
his Father, who always kept about him the Children o f liis eldeft Son. .B y
that fubmiffion he more eafily brought about his defigns 5 for having by that
means gain’d the good will o f his Father, he obtain’d leave to carry along with
him the blind Prince, his eldeft Brother, to his Government o f the Kingdom Decan.
He laid before his Father, that it would be far better to remove from his fight,
an objed: that could not chufe but be fo affliding to him ; and that the Prince
himfelfi being blind, would {pend the reft o f his days more comfortably in
D ecan, where he might be more retir’d. The King not penetrating into his
defign, readfly contented to his requeft. Who when he had that poor Prince
in his Clutches, made him away with that fecrefie which was not to be diteo-
ver’d ; and under the moft plaufible pretence imaginable, to conceal him from
the eyes o f men.
A fter the death o f the blind Prince, Sultan Courom took upon him the name
o f C h a jeh a n , that is, King o f the World ; and to uphold his Title, he rais’d an
A rm y to finilh what his Brother had begun, which was to dethrone his Father,
and to take polTeffion o f the Empire. The King incens’ d as well at the death
o f his Son, as at the attempt againft his own perfon, fent a confiderable Arm y
to chaftile Courom for lb bold an Enterprize; But the rebellious Prince finding
him felf too weak to ftand his Fathers force, quitted the Kingdom o f Decan,
and with certain Vagabonds that follow’d him, wander’ d from place to piace,
till he came to Bengala, where he rais’d an Army with an intention to give theKing
Battel. To which purpote, paffing the Ganges, he marches direftly toward the
Kingdom o f Labor ; whom the King in perfon met, with an Arm y much more
numerous and ftronger than his. But Gehan-guir being old, and weaned with
th e troubles that his Sons had put him to,- dy’d by the w ay, leaving Cha-jehan
a tlib e rty to purfue his own defigns. However before he expir d, the good King
had tim e to recommend his Grandchild Boulaki to A ftu f-K a n , his Generalifmno
and prim e Minifter o f State, w ho was Protestor o f the Empire. He commanded
alfo all the Officers o f the A rm y to acknowledg him for King, as being the
law ful H eir? declaring Sultan Kotnrom a Rebel, and incapable o f the Succeffion.
M oreover he made A fo u f-K a n to fwear in particular, that he would neve*
fuffer Boulaki to be put to death, which w ay foever affairs w en t; which A fou f-
n a n fw are upon his Thigh j and as religioufly obferv d as to the Article or not
, jplal tr“*
 potting him to death but not as to that o f helping him to the Crown, which
he defign’d for Cha-jehan , who had married his eldeft Daughter, the Mother o f .
four Princes, and two PrincdTes.
The news o f the Kings death being known at Court, caus’d a general la­
mentation. And prefently all the Grandees o f the Kingdom fet themfelves to
execute the Kings Will and Teftament, acknowledging Sultan Boulakj for Em­
peror, who was very young. That Prince had two Coufin-Germans, who were
both o f them by the Kings confent turn’d Chriftians, and made publick pro-
feffion thereof. Thole two young Princes, being very apprehenfive, perceiv’d
that A fou f-K an, Father-in-Law to Cha-jehan , and Father o f C h a-Eft-K an, had
no good intentions toward the young King, and gave him notice o f it 5 wh,kh
coft them their Jives, and the King the lofs o f his Dominions. For the young
King, having no more wit than was agreeable to his age, openly declar’d to
Afouf-K an what his Coufins had reveal’ d to him in private, and ask’d the Ge­
neral whether it w ere true, that h'e had a defign to let up his Uncle againft
him or no. A fm f- K a n immediately accus’d the Reporters o f falfity and im­
pudence, and protefted his fidelity to his King, and vo w ’d to fpend the laft
drop o f his blood to preferve him in the polfefllon o f the Empire. However
feeing his Confpiracy difcover’d , he refolv’d to prevent the puniffiment; to
Which end having got the two Princes into his poffeffion, he put them both,
to death. Bat before that, in regard o f his power in the Arm y and in the
Empire, he had already brought over to Cha-jehans party the greateft part o f
the Commanders and Lords o f the C o u rt; and the better to play his gam e,
aiid deceive the young King, he rais’d a report that Cha-jehan was dead ; and
becaufc he had defir’d to be buried near his Father Gehan-gmr, the body was
to be brought to A g ra . This Stratagem being cunningly manag’d, Afouf-Kan.
him felf gave advice o f the feign’d death to the King ; telling the King withal?,
that it w ou ld .b e but a common civility for him to go and meet the Corps
when it came within a League or two o f the City, being an Honour due to a
Prince o f the Blood o f the Moguls. All this while Cha-jehan kept himfelf in­
cognito, till coming within fight o f the Army that lay about A g ra , he caus’d
him felf to be put into a Coffin, wherein there was only a hole left for him to
breath at. This, Coffin being carri’d under a moving Tent, all the principal Officers,
who ,\ycre o f the plot with A fou f-K an, came to perform the ufeal Ceremonies
o f State to the body o f the deceas’d Prince, while the young King was upon
the way to meet the body. , But then A [oaf-K an. finding it feafonable to exe­
cute his defign, caus’d the Coffin to be open’d, and Cha-jehan rifing up, and
Brewing him felf to the eyes o f all the A rm y, was faluted Emperor by all the
Generals and other principal Officers, who had their Cue rea d y ; fo that the
name o f Cha-jehan running in a moment from one mans mouth to another, the
Acclamation became publick, and the Empire was fetled upon him. The young
King hearing the news by the w ay, was fo furpriz’d, that he thought o f no­
thing but how to fave him felf by flight, being upon a fudden forfeken by all
his followers. And Cha-jehan not believing it any w ay neceffary to purfue him,
fuffer’d him to wander a long time in India like a F a k ir. At length he retir’ d
into Perjia, w here he was magnificently receiv’d by Cha-Sefi , who allow’d
him a penfion fit for fo great a Prince, which he ftill enjoys.
Cha-jehan having thus ufurp’d the Crown, the better to fecure himfelf, and
to ftifle all Fadions that might arife during the life o f the lawful Prince, whom
he had fo unjuftly delpoiled o f his right, by degrees put to death all rhofe
that had ffiew’n any kindnefe to his Nephew. So that the firft part o f his
Reign was noted for many a d s o f cru e lty ,. that blemifh’d his reputation. No
lefs unfortunate was the end o f his Reign. For as he had unjuftly depriv’d the
lawful.Heir, o f.th e Empire which belong’d to him ; he was himfelf, while he
ye t liv ’d, depriv’d of his Crown b y Aureng-z.eb his own Son, who kept him
Prifoner in th e ; Fortrefs o f A gra.
~ For after D ara-C h a had loft the Battel againft his two Brothers, Aureng-neb and
M o ra t-B a kch e, in the Plain o f Samongmr, and was treacheroufly abandoned by the
principal Officers o f the Army, he retir’d into the Kingdom o f Labor, with all the
Treafure which the confiafion o f his affairs would fuffer him to get together. In
the
 -- ———
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Book II Travels in I ndia. 113
the King to refill the violence o f his victorious Sons, (hut him felf up in the
Caftle o f Agra j to the end he m ight not be furpriz’d, but have time and
leifure to obferve how far the infolence o f his children would tranfport them.
As for Aurengceb, who had M urat Bakche fafe enough, he enters Agra,, feigning
to believe a report that Cha-jehan was dead, that he might have liberty to get
into the Fortrefs, where he faid one o f the Omrd’s would make it out. The ipore
he reported the death o f Cha-jehan, the more did the King endeavour to let the
people know he was alive. But finding both Pow er and Fortune had taken
Aureng-z.eb1’ s party ; and being alfo in great neceflity for want o f water, he lent
F a z .d -K a n , grand Matter o f his Houfhold, to allure his Son that he was alike ■
and withal to tell him that it was the King’s command, that he fhould retire to
his Vice-Roy-fhip in1Decan, without putting him to any more vexation, and that
upon his obedience, he would forgive whatever had paft. Aurcngtzeb, firm in his
• refolution, return’d for anfwer to Faz.el-ICan, that he was certain that the King
his Father was dead, and that upon that account he had only taken Arms to Se­
cure the Crown to himfelf, which he thought he deterv’d, as well as the reft o f
his Brothers. That i f his Father were living, he had too great a refpeft for hirri
to undertake the k aft enterprize that fhould difpleafe him ; and therefore that
he might be certain he was not dead, he defir’d to fee him, and to kifs his fe e t ;
and having fo done, he would retire to his Government, and punctually obey his
Commands. Fatcd-K an return’d this anfwer to the King, who declar’d that he
fhould be glad to fee his Son, and lent back Faztd-K an, to tell him he fhould be
welcome. But Aureng-zeb more cunning than Cha-jehan, allur’d Fa& el-K an that
he would not let his foot in the Caftle, till the Garrifon that was in it fhould be
fent away to make room for his men. For the Prince was afraid, and not without
reafbn, i f he fhould adventure into a Fortrefs where he was not abfolute Matter
himfelf, left they fhould feize his perfon, o f which the King being apprehenfive,1
Contented to his propofal, not being able to do better at that time. Thereupon
the Garrifon which belong’d to Cha-jehan was fent out o f the Caftle, and another
Of A ureng-z.eFs enter’d, commanded by Sultan Mahomet the eldeft of his Sons,
to whom he gave order to tecure his Father’s perfon. When they were thus got
in, and his Father fafe, he delaid teeing his Father from day to day, waiting (as he
gave on t for excute) a kind opportunity for the enterview , and pretending his
Aftrologers did not prefently think it teafbnable, he retir’d into the Countrey, to
a Houte about two or three leagues from .Agra, which very much difpleafed the
people, who waited every day for the fortunate hour, from which they expected
a conclufion o f their miferies by the Father and Son’s difcourfe together. But
Attreng-z-eb, who was in no great haft to tee his Father, took up another rete n ­
tion, which was to teize upon all his Fathers treafure, which Dara-Sha had not ♦
time to carry away. He alfo fhut up in the fame Fortrefs Bsgum-Saheb. his Sifter,
to keep the King company, by whom fhe was entirely belov’ d : and took into
his own hands all the wealth fhe had got, bydier Father’s liberality.
cha-jehan enrag’d fo fee himfelf us’d in that manner by his own Son, made an
attempt to efcape, and kill'd fome o f the Guards that oppos’d him ; which
caus’ d Aureng-ub more ftriCtly to confine him. In the mean time it was a won­
derful thing to tee that not one o f the Servants o f fo great a King fo much as
offer’d to help h im } that all his Subjects fhould forfake him, and turn their eyes
upon the rifing-Sun ; acknowledging only Aureng-tceb for King, while they teem d
to have forgotten Cha-jehan, though ftill alive. Thus this great Monarch ladly
ended his days in Prifon, and d y’d in the Fortrefs o f A g ra m the year 16 6 6
the laft time that I was in India.
D u rin g his Reign he had begun to build the C ity o f jehanabad, though he had
not quite finifh’d it, and therefore he defir’d to tee it once more before he dy d ;
but Aureng-zeb would riot give him leave, unlefs he would be content to go and
come back by water, or elte to be confin’d to the Caftle o f jehanabad, as he was
at A g ra , w h ich refufal o f his Son did fo torment him , that it haften’d his end.
W hich as Soon as Aureng-z.eb heard o £ he came to A gra , and teizd Upon all the
jewels w hich he had not taken from his Father w hile he liv d. Begnm-Saheb
had alfo a quantity o f Jewels, which he had not taken from her when he put her
into the Caftle. But now, becaufe fhe had form erly taken her Father’s part, he,
* CL • found'
 found out a w ay to deprive her o f them after a very plaufible manner j making
a fhew o f bellowing very great Honours and Carefles upon his $ifter, and taking
her along with him to jehanabad. But in a fhort time after w e heard the news
o f her death j which proved, and all people fuipedted her to have been poifon’d.

C h a p . iy .
O f th e f lig h t o f D a ra -c h a to th e K in g d o m s o f Seindi a n d Giflfcerat: O f
the fe c o n d B a t t e l w h ic h he fo u g h t a g a in fl A u re n g -z e b : H is b ein g
taken ‘P n fo n e r , a n d d ea th . . ' •

A ra-ch a having carri’d along with him the beft part o f th e G old and Silver
D which was in the Fortrefs o f A g ra by his Father’s advice, and being got in­
to the Kingdom o f Labor, was in good hopes to have rais’ d an A rm y in a ihorc
time to have ftopt the proceedings o f his Brother. His moft faithful Servants
and Friends had always accompani’d him in his misfortune. And as for his Eldeffc
Son, Soliman Shekottr, he went, with the Raja Roup, into the Territories o f that
R a ja ’s own demeans, to levy m en} carrying along with him five-millions o f
Roupies, which make o f our Money feven-millions and 500000 Livres. But
that great Sum opening the R aja Roup’s eyes, he moft treacheroufly and infa-
moufly feiz’d upon it ; whereupon Soliman Chehour, fearing he fhould proceed
farther, and make fome attempt upon his perfon, fled in all haft into the Kingdom1
o f Sir^ieguer, under the protection o f the Raja N a k ti-R a n i, who more foully
and bafely deliver’d him up fometime after to Aureng-^eb.
Dara-cha having notice o f the Raja Roup's treafon, and feeing all his friends'
had forfook him, and were revolted to Aureng-^eb, quitted Labor, and retir’d in­
to the Kingdom o f Seindi. Before he left the Fortrefs, he fent all the Gold,
Silver, Jew els and Wealth that was in the Fort, away by water to Balder, a Fort
in the midft o f the R iver Indus. To guard all that Wealth, he left an Eunuch,
and fix-thoufand men, with all provifions necefiary. for a Siege ; after that he went
to Seindi.,where he left feveral great pieces o f Cannon.Then he march’d through the
Territories o f the R aja o f Kacbnagana, who made him mountainous promifes to
no effeCt; then he came into the Kingdom o f Gwoerat, where the people receiv’d
* him as their lawful King and Heir to Cba-jehan. He fent his Orders to all the
Cities, and particularly to Surat, where he appointed a Governor ; but the G over­
nor o f the Fprtrefs, who was left there by M orat-Bakphe, refus’d to fubmit to
Dara-cha, fb that he was forc’d to les»him alone.
In the mean time Dara-cha receiv’ d news at Am adabat, that fejfimfeing., one o f
the moft potent Raja's in ajl India, was fall’n off from Anreng-steb. The fame
Raja alfb folicits him to advance with his Arm y. Dara-cha confiding in his
words, follow’d his counfe], and march’d to Em ir, which was the place o f Rende-
vouz appointed. But Raja fejfom fehg being regain’d by the perfwafions o f R aja
jeffeingy more potent than himfelf, to favour A urem -deb, never met according to
his promife ; nor did he come till the laft pufh * and then only w ith d delign to
betray the poor Prince. Thus the tw o Brothers meeting, they came to a Battel
which lafted three days . but in the heat o f all the Fight, jejfomfeing {hewing an
apparent treachery, went over to Aureng-z.eb ; upon which D ara-cha's Souldiers
immediately fled. Dara-cha having thus loft all his hopes, and finding Fortune con­
trary to all his expectations, fled aw ay likewife w ith his W ives, fome o f his Chil­
dren, end his moft faithful Servants, in an equipage that drew compaflion. But
coming to Am adabat, the Governor having declar’ d for Aureng-z.eb, deni’d him
entrance. Thereupon he difeamp’d in the middle o f the night, and took the road
for Seindi. . 0
He arriv’d at Seindi, with an intention to pafs into Perfia, where C h a-A bas the
Second expected him with a magnificent Retinue, and a refolution to have aflifted
' him
 him with Men and Money. But not daring to truft himfelf by Sea ; as he pafs’d
through the CSuntrey o f th r Patanes, in the w ay to Capdahar, he was unworthily
betraid by one o f the Lords o f the Countrey, call’d G io n -K a n ; who had been an
Officer under the King his Father, and who having been condemn’d for his crimes
by the mouth o f his Father, and ready to be thrown under the Elephant’s-feet,
had been pardon’ d at the interceffion o f Dara-cha. For an addition to his affliction,
before he came to G io n -K att s Houle, he receiv’d the news o f the death o f that
particular W ife which he lov’d molt entirely, and which had always accompani’d
him in his misfortunes. He underftood that Ihe dy’d through heat and drowth,
not being able to get a drop o f water in the Countrey to refrefh her thirft.
The Prince was fo mov’d at the news, that he fell down, like one that had been
ftruck quite dead ; and when he came to himfelf, he tore his clothes in the ex­
cels o f his g rie f: an ancient cuftom ftill continu’d in the Eaft. He had always
fhew’d himfelf inlenfible upon all other occafiohs o f misfortune, but this fatal
ftroke fo deeply pierc’d him, that he would receive no confolation from his friends.
A fter this, he clad him felf according to his misfortune,- and inftead o f a Turbant,
he only put about his head a piece o f coarfe Calicut. In this miferable equipage he
enter’d into the Houle o f the Traytor Gion-Kan, where being laid down to reft
fiim lelf upon a Field-bed, a new fubjeft o f forrow awak’d him. For Gion-Kan
, having a defign'to leize Sepper-Shekour, Dara-chdds lecond Son, the young Prince,
though but a Youth, made a bold refiftance, and with his Bow and Arrows laid
three men upon the ground ; but hot being able to refill a multitude, he was at
length taken. D ara-cha waken’d with the noife, faw before his eyes his Son,
whom they were leading toward him, with his hands ty’d behind him. Then the
milerable Father o f the young Prince, no longer misdoubting the horrid trealbn
o f G ion-K an, could not refrain from letting fall in his paffion thele exprellions.
F in ifh , faid he, ingrateful and infamous Villain as thou art , finifh the xvork^ thou hafi
begun-, vte are become Victims to bad Fortune , and Aureng-zeb’ j unjuft .Ambition,
B u t remember that I only deferve death fo r having fa d ’d thy life : for never Prince
o f the Royal Blood had his hands ty’ d behind him before. G ion-K an in lome mea-
fure mov'd at thele words, caus’ d the little Prince to be unbound, and only let
guards upon D ara-cha tesA his Son. A t the lame time he alfo lent exprefles to
Raya f ejfomfeing, and to A b d u lla -K a n , to give them advice that he had leizd up"
on Dara-cha. and his Train. Thereupon they made haft to lhare in the lpoils
o f that poor Prince. But they could not be fo fwift, but that Gion-Kan
had leiz’ d upon all that D ara-cha had o f moll precious in the W orld; ufing
as inhumanly both his Wives arid his Children. The R aja and A bdulla being ar­
riv ’d, provided Elephants for thfc Prince, his Son, and his Wives, and carri d them
away immediately to Jeh a n a b a t ; the people crowded to behold them, every one
being defirous to fee the Prince whom they lo earneftly defir’ d to have had for their
King. Aureng-z*eb caufed them to be Ihewn in all the Streets and Market-places
o f Jehanabat, that no man might queftion hereafter their being taken ; and as i f
he had glori’d in his treachery toward his Brother, he prefently condemn’ d and
fent him away to theC aftle o f A p r . But o f all that crowded to behold, not
one would llir to allift or luccour their lawful Prince. Only fome few generous
Souldiers who had ferv’d him, and had receiv’ d fome kindneffes from him, feeing
themfelves not able to deliver their Prince, yet defirous to fhew him fome proofs
o f their acknowledgment, fell w ith all their fury upon the Traitor G ion-K an, who
though he were relcu’d from them at that time, yet loon after met w ith the re­
w ard due to his c rim e ; for he was kill'd as he was crofting a Wood in his return

In the mean time Aureng-z*eb, like a good Polititian, and an extraordinary Dif-
fem bler, gave it out, that it was by no order o f his that Dara-cha was leiz d ; on­
ly he defir’d him to retire Out o f the Kingdom, which he refufing to do, ow n -K a n ,
unknown to him, had unworthily feiz’d his perfon; and without re lp e a to p h e
R oyal-Blood, had fhamefully ty’ d the hands o f the young Sepper-Shekour behind
h im : which being a crime and an indignity done to his M ajefty, had been pumih d
by the death o f G ion-K an arid his accomplices. But this was only pubiifh’d to
abufe the p eo p le; for had it been true, Aureng-'t-eb would never have given order
to have his Brother’ s head cut off, ^ - , l\ .r
 For D ara-C ha being lent from fehanabat with a Guard to the place o f his
imprifonment; when he came to a fair place where be thought <io repole him
{elf, they drefs’d up the Tent where he was t a leave his Head. A fter he had
eaten S e if-K a n came and brought him'the fenfence o f his Death. D ara-C h a
feeing him enter, told him he was very welcom e, and that he was glad to lee
one o f his moft faithful Servants. S eif-K an made anfwer, that indeed he had
form erly been one o f his Servants, but that now he was the Slave o f A u ren g-
z.ebj who had commanded him to bring him his Head. Muft I dye then ? laid
D ara-C ha. ’Tis the Kings command, reply’d Seif-ICan , and I am entrufted to
execute it. Sepper-Chskour, who lay in an anti-Chamber o f the Tent, waking
upon this conteft , would have feiz’d upon certain weapons which had been
taken from him, with an intention to have affifted his Father $ but he was pre­
vented by thole that accompany’d Seif-K an. D ara-C h a would have made lome
refiffance himfelf, but feeing it Was in vain, he only defir’d time for his devo­
tions, which was granted him. In the mean time Sepper-Chekoar was taken from
h im ; and while they held him a ftory, a Slave took off D a ra -C h a ' s Head,
which was carried to Aureng-z.eb by Seif-K an. This bloody Tragedy being
thus afted, Sepper-Chekoar was fent to the Cattle o f Goualeor - to keep his Uncle .
' M orat-Bakche company. As for the Wives and Daughters o f D a r a -C b l |
they were allotted an Apartment in Aureng-z.etf s H aram .

CHAP. V.
How Aureng-zeb caus'd himfelf to be declar'd King ; and cf the Flight.
of Su itan -Su iah .

A S it is the cuftom at the performance o f that Ceremony, for the new King
to feat him lelf upon the Throne j there was not much time requir’d to
prepare one, in regard'that Cha-jehan before his imprifonment had finifh’d that
which the Great Tamerlane had begun ; which was the richeft and moft magni­
ficent that ever was leen. But as the Grand Cadi o f the Empire, and C h ie f
o f the L aw was to Proclaim the new King, Aureng-z^eb found him lelf oppos’d
by him. For the Cadi told him, that the Law o f Mahomet and the Law o f N a­
ture equally forbad him to declare him King, while his Father liv’d ; befides,
that he had put his elder Brother to death, to whom the Empire belong’d a f ­
ter the death o f Cha-]ehan their Father. This ftout refiftance o f the Cadi did
not a little perplex Aurer.g-z.eb ; and therefore that he might not feem to ap­
pear irreligious, he call’d all the D oftors o f the Law together, to whom he
reprefented the incapacity o f his Father to govern, through age and many infir­
mities that troubled h im ; as for D ara-C ha his Brother, he had put him to death,
becaufe he was a {lighter o f the Law , drank Wine, and favour’d Infidels. T h o li
reafons, Intermix’d with threats, caus’d his Council o f Confidence to conclude,
that he delerv’d the Em pire, and ought to be proclaim’d King ; though the
Cadi obftinately perfifted in his ftrft refolution. There was no other rem edy
therefore, but to rem ove him from his employment, as a difturber o f the
publick peace, and to chule another for the Honour o f the L aw , and the Good
o f the Kingdom* The perlon who was elected by the Council was foon con­
firm’d by Aureng-z.eb ■, in acknowledgment w hereof he proclaim’ d him King
the twentieth o f Ottober, 16 6 0 . This Proclamation being made in the M ofjuee 3
Attreng-z.eb leated himfelf upon the Throne, and receiv’d the Homages o f all
the Grandees o f the Kingdom.
However, Aureng-z.eb did not think bis Throne faft enough, nor himfelf de-
eure in the Empire, fo Ipng as Sultan Sajah was railing a powerful Arm}7 in
Bengala to releafe his Father. Thereupon he lent a confiderable Force againft
him, under the Command o f Sultan M ahom ed his eldeft: Son ; to whom he ap­
pointed for his Lieutenant the E m ir-Jem la , one o f the greateft Captains that
ever came out o f Per fid into India. His great Condudt and Courage had ren­
der d him a perfon to be reverenc’ d by all pofterity, had he been faithful to
the
 the Princes whom he ferv’d. But firft he betray’d the King o f Golconda, un­
der whom he1 advanc’ d his Fortune; and next to him Cha-jehan, under whole
protection he rofe fo high, that there was not a Nobleman in all India more
powerful or richer than he. Otherwife he is both belov’d and fear’d by the
Soldiers, and perfectly underftands the Art *of War, according to the ciiftom
o f the Country.. The two Armies engaging feveral times, the Victory was fome-
times on the one lide, and fometimes on the other • fo that Saltan Mahomed
finding it likely ro be a tedious War, affifted by the, Counfels o f his Lieute­
nant, refolv’ d to add policy to ftrength. Thereupon he treats underhand with
the Officers o f his Uncle’s Army, makes them magnificent promifes, and fo ear-
neftly follicites them to come over to Aureng-z.eb'’ s party, whom he call’d the
Pillar and ProteCtor o f Mahomet’s Law, that he gain’d the principal, to whom
he fent confiderable Prefents, to confirm them in their refolutions. This was a
m ortal blow to Sultan-Sujah, againft which he could not provide. For they that
adhear’ d to him being a mercenary generation, that ferves whoever gives mold,
finding they had little more to exp ed from a Prince whofe Exchequer was
em pty, refolv’d to drive a Trade with Aureng-tLeb, who was Matter o f all the
Treafure in the Kingdom. And thus did Aureng-s^eb debauch the Army o f his
Brother, who in the laft Battel, feeing himfelf abandon’d by all his Soldiers;
was forc’ d to fave him felf by. flight, with his Wives and Children. The T ray-
tors afham’d ofttheir treachery, did not fo fmartly purfue the unfortunate Prince
as they might have done, but prefently fell ta plund’ring his Tents and Bag­
g a g e ; which Emir-femla fuffer’d them to d o , in recompence o f their Trea-
fon. Sultan-Sujah in the mean time eroding.the Ganges with his Retinue, re­
tir’ d fomC time afterwards into the Kingdom o f Arakan, upon the Confines o f
Bengala, where we fhall leave him for a time.

C H A P . VL

O f the imprisonment of Sulran-Mahemed , Aureng-zebV eldeft fen ;

and of Sultan Soliman Chekour, eldest fon of Dara-Cha.

Hough Aureng-z*eb were .efteem’d a very great Politician, and were fo in­
T deed, yet he fail’ d in his Politicks, to truft his Son with fuch a power­
ful A rm y, under the ConduCt o f a Captain who had already betray’d two Matters.
H ow ever at length he began to be jealous, left Heaven fhould infpire his own
Son to revenge the crimes which he had committed. And upon this, receiving
intelligence, that Sultan Mahomed began to be very penfive and melancholy,
he then abfolutely believ’d that his Son was praCtifing mifehief againft h im ;
for the better difeovery whereof, he wrote to Emir-femla. But the Letter un­
happily mifearrying, was taken b y Saltan Mahomeds G uards, and giv n to the
voung Prince; who being a perfbn o f a quick apprehenfion, conceal d the bu-
finefs from Emir-femla-, and fearing left he fhould receive other Orders morq
precife to take away his life, he refolv’d to pafs the Ganges, and throw him felf
upon his Uncle Sultan Sujah; from whom he expefted more mercy than from
his Father. With this refolution he feign’d to go a fifhing, and paffing the Ganges,
w ith feveral Officers that adher’d to him, he went diredtly to Sultan Sujahs
Cam p, which lay on the other fide o f the R iv e r ; the Sultan having rais d a
confiderable Force in the Kingdom o f Arakan. Sultan Mahomed coming into
his Uuncles prefence, threw him felf at his feet, begging his pardon for having
taken Arms againft him, as being forc’d thereto b y his Father. Now though
Sultan Suiah had reafon enough to believe, that Mahomed’s coming into his
Camp, was only a trick o f his Father, to fend his Son as a Spy to difeover his
condition; y e t being a vertuous and generous Prince, and feeing his Nephew
proftrate at his feet, he could not but raife him up ; after which, embracing
him, he affur’d him o f his protection againft Aureng-^eb, Some days after, thefe
 two Princes made an attempt, and paffing Ganges, and fetching a cojmpafs thought
to have furpriz’d the Enemies Army, who dreamt not o f their coming. They
made a vigorous onfet, and hill'd a great number o f men. But when they found
the whole Arm y had taken the Alarum, they contented themfelves with the
mifehief they had done, and repafs'd the Ganges, for fear o f being furrounded
by number. •
Emir-femla had already given intelligence to Aureng-z,eb o f the flight o f his
Son ; which fenfibly griev’d the Father, though he durlt not (hew his anger,
for fear o f incenfing the Emir to betray him , as he had betray’d his Father!
Thereupon he cunningly wrote to him, that he rely’d altogether upon his pru­
dence and policy to retrieve his Son to his d u ty; that he was young, and that
what he had done, was only out his heat o f youth, and the inconftancy jnci_
cident to his years. The confidence which Anrer.g-z.ek feem’ d to put in Emir~
femla incited the General to ufe all his endeavours to get Mahomet out o f
Sultan Sujab’s hands. Thereupon he gave the young Prince to underhand his
Fathers good intentions toward him, and that he was ready to receive him
.with open Arms, fothat he would but make good ufe o f his Refidence with Sultan
Sujah, which he might pretend was done for the advantage to his Father, and for
which his Father would have rather caufe to extol his prudence and affedion
than otherwise. The young Prince eafily fuffer’d • him felf to beperfw aded, and
the fame way he went to his Uncle’ s, the fame way he return'd to his Fathers
C am p; where Emir-femla receiv’d him honourably, and with all the demon- '
fixations o f joy. He advis'd him alfo, to tell his Father when he faw him, that
he did not go over to Sultan Sujab', but only with .a defign to obf^rve^what
Forces he had, and the Difcipline o f his Army ; and that he intended to have
fpeedily return’ d , and to have given him an account o f what he had done
for his fervice. Prefently Orders came from Aureng-zeb, that his Son (hould
b e fe n tto h im ; fo that Mahomed,, whether by conftraint, or willingly, (et for­
ward for fehanabat, attended by the Guards which Emir-femla had appointed
The King having notice o f his arrival, his Majefty order’d him a Lodging with­
out the Palace, and would not permit him to kifs his hands ; pretending he
: was not well. 1 &
All this while Soliman-Cbekpur, after he had been betray’d by the Raja Roup
had continu’d under the protection o f Mach-Ram in the Province o f Serenaguer
Tins Prince, as flout as he was unfortunate, was conftrain’d to lead a Savage
hfe among the Mountains, for fear o f falling into the hands o f Aurepg-teb nor
could he with all hiS Forces do him any harm in th a v place. Befide N a B i-
Ram had afiur’d him with an Oath, accompany’d with all the Ceremonies that
could make it folemn, and inviolable; that he would rather lofe hisT errito-
do m , then that Ameng-z.eb^(hould do the leaft violence* to that protection
which he afforded him. This was done upon the Banks o f a R iver, wrhich pafles
through his Country, where he wafh’d his body, in token o f the purity o f his
S o u l; and being thus purify’d in the Water, he made his proteftations to Soli­
man-Cbekpur, never to forfake him, taking his Gods to Witnefs o f the fince-
rity o f his intentions. Upon this, Soliman-Cbekpur never took any farther care
but every day went to divertife him felf with hunting. While' he gives up
himfelf to his pleafure, Aureng-z.eb marches his Arm y toward the Mountains,
thinking to force the Nach-Rani to furrender Soliman-Cbekour into his power.
But the Raja with a thoufand men being able to defend the Avenues o f his
Country againft a hundred thoufand, Aureng-z.eb finding he could do no good
that way, has recourfe to policy. He undertakes at firft to treat with the Raja,
but in vain, for the Raja would not violate his O a th ; and his Priefts affur’d
him befides, that Aureng-z.eb (hould e’ re long be depos’ d, and that Soliman '
Chekour (hould Reign in his room.
Aureng-^eb thus prevented, refolves to make another kind o f War upon him.
rnereupon he forbids all commerce between his and the Rajas Subjects; which
was very prejudicial to the latter. This caus’d the people to murmur at the
protection which he had given to Soliman-Cbekpur; and at length they publicklv
cry d out, that it was to the prejudice o f the publick. Their Priefts alfo, thus
alarm d, began to doubt the truth o f their Oracles, and to think it convenient
to
 to put another interpretation upon them. But the main, thing was, that the Raja
'fejfomfeing w.Jio had betraid D ara-C h a, wrote privately to N a th -R a n i, that it was
for the fafety o f his Perfon and Dominions, to fubmit to Aureng-z.eb 5 and to fur-
render his kinfman up into his hands. This advice o f fejfomfeing put him to a very
great plunge ; dreading on the one fide the breach o f his oath ; on the other,
the revolt o f his people. Uncertain what courle to take, he conlults the B ra -
mins, who gave their opinions that it was his duty rather to prelerve his People
and his L aw s, which would be both deftroid, fhould they fall into the hands o f
Au-r*ng-z,eb , than to keep his Faith with a Prince from whom he could never ex­
pert any advantage. Thele confulcations being kept private from Sohman Che-
kour, his ruine was concluded upon, while he thought him felf molt lecure. There­
upon N a th -R a n i, with a Salvo, as he thought, to his Honour and his Confidence,
return’d for anfwer to fejj'omfeing, that he could not confent to betray the Prin ce;
bu t that Aureng-z.eb might take his opportunity to feize his perfon, ye t prelerve
his reputation too-: in regard that Sohman Chekour was wont to go a Hunting up­
on certain Mountains in his Countrey with a fmall retinue, and that it would
be an eafy thing for him to fend a number o f Souldiers fufficient to apprehend
him.
So foon as jejfomfeing had receiv’d this anfwer, he gave order to his Son to lee
the bufinels eiferted as the plot was laid. So that Soliman Chekotrr one day going
a Hunting to the ufual place, was Inapt by a ftrong pajrty that lay in Ambufcade.
The Prince prefently apprehended the treafon, and defended him felf with the af-
fiftance o f his Attendants, who w ere’all flain; he him felf flew nine, but at length
over-number’ d, was taken and carri’d to fehanabat. When he came into
Aureng-z.eb’s prefence, the King ask’d him how he did ? As well as a Prifoner o f
yours can do, faid he, who experts no better ufage from you, than his Father re ­
ceiv’ d before. The King bid him not be afraid, that he had no defign to put him
to death, but only to lecure his perfon. Aureng-z,eb after that, demanding o f
him w hat Was become o f all the Treafure which he had carri’d away, the Prince
m ade anfwer that he had fpcnt a great part in railing Souldiers againft him to have
ruin’d him, i f it had been his good fortune That a good part was in the hands o f
R a ja Roup, whofe avarice and perfidioufnefs was fufficiently known. And that
N a b li-R a n i had got the remainder to deliver him to his enemies, to the prejudice
o f his word and honour. A ureng-zeb was furpriz’ d and touch’d at the boldnefe
o f his N ephew 5 but ambition ibutting his e y e s , and fluffing all thoughts o f
iuftice, which the juft remorfe o f Confcience might excite within him, he gave or­
der that Sultan M ahom et his Son, and Soliman Chekour his Nephew fhould both be
com mitted to the Fort o f Goualeor to keep M orat-Bak^ che company, which was
done the 3 or A o f jan. 1 6 6 1 . _ .
Sultan Sujah , w ho was ye t alive, but ftill liv’d miferably, was the laft thorn m
'Aureng-z-eb’s fo o t # and the perfon that drew it out for him, and rid him o f his
laft pain was the K ing o f A ra k a n , whither the unfortunate Prince was at length
forc’d to retire. Who finding all his hopes to be loft, began to think o f a Pilgri­
m age to M e c c a and from thence to go into Perfia, and implore a Sanrtuary un­
der the protertion o f that Prince. T o this purpofe he thought he might obtain
a Veflfel from the K in g of A ra k a n , or the King o f Pegu, to carry him to Mecca :
but he was ignorant that neither o f thofe Kings had any Veflels, that would live in
the main Ocean. So that he w as conftrain’d to ftay with the King o f A ra k a n an
Idolater, whofe D aughter he defir’ d in M arriage, which the King granted, and by
w hom he had a Son. But that which ought to have been the greateft occafion1 o f
friendfhip between the Son-in-law and the Father-in-law, was the greateft realon
o f their hatred and falling-out. F o r fome Lords o f the Countrey, who began to
be iealous o f Sultan Sujah, buzz’ d the King o f A ra k a n in the ear, as i f he had an
intention by vertue o f his M arriage, todifpoflefs him o f his Throne and to leave
it to his own Son. The Pagan K in g eafily believ’ d _what th ey faid. N or were
t ’n efe fupitions ill-grounded; fo r Sultan Sujah having good ftore o f Gold and
Tewels eafily corrupted feveral Mahumetans that liv’ d in the Kingdom o S A r a -
{ ,,nn w ith thole and about two-hunder’d men m ore that had follow’d him af­
ter the rout o f his A rm y, he undertook a molt bold enterprize. which was y e t a
mark rather o f defpair than courage. . He appointed a day to thofe o f his party
to force the Palace, and after they had put all the Royal Family to the Sword, to
proclaim him King o f A ra kan . But this Plot being difeover’d the cjay it Ihould
have been executed, Sultan Sujah , and Sultan Bangue, his Son, had no other w ay
to fave themfelves, but by flight into the Kingdom o f Pegu. But their w ay lying
over Mountains almoft impaflable, and through thick Forrefts full o f Tigers and
Lions, and being alfo clofely purlu’d, their flight avail’d them little or nothing.
Sultan Bangue however being behind, to keep the Furthers in play while his Fa­
ther and his Fam ily gain’d ground, ftoutly defended him felf againft the firft Af~
lailants, but at length being overpower’d by number, he was taken together with
his two little Brothers, his Mother and his Sifters ; who w ere all put in Prifon,-
w here they were very ill-us’d. But fome time after, the King having a defire to
marry theeldeft Sifter o f Sultan Bangue , they had a little more liberty allow’d
them. However they enjoy’d it not long, for the young Prince being o f a tur­
bulent and ambitious fpirit, plotted new trealbns againft the K ing, which being
difeover’d, the King immediately caus’d the whole Family to be put to death, not
(paring the young Princefs his Wife, though fhe were big with Child.
As for Sultan Sujah , who was formoft among thole that fled, it is moft generally
thought that either he was flain by the Souldiers who w ere lent to apprehend
him, or that he was torn in pieces by the Tigers and Lions $ o f which thofe For­
refts are full.

CHAP. V II.
Of the beginning of Aureng-zebV R eign , an d the T)eath of Cha-jehan
his Father.

C O m e days before he afcended the Throne, he fent to his Father to fend him
lome o f his Jew els, to the end he might appear before his people with the
lame magnificence as his PredecelTors had done. Cha-jehan taking this requelt
o f his Sons for an affront put upon him in Prifion, fell into fuch a rage that;he con-
tinu d mad for lome days, and had like to have dy’ d upon it. In the excels o f his
vexation he call d leveral times for a M orter and a Peftle, threatning to beat all his
Jew els to powder, before his Son Ihould have them. But Begum-Saheb; his eldeft
Daughter, never forfook him, throwing her le lf at his feet, and by vertue o f that
criminal power which fhe had over him3 as being both his Daughter and his
Wife, kept him from ufing that extrem ity 5 more out o f a defign to preferve the
Jewels for her lelf, than for her Brother, to whom fhe had allbays been a mortal
enemy. For this reafon, when Aureng-z^eb afcended the Throne, he had no more
than one Jew el upon his Bonnet: This Bonnet cannot be call’d a Crown 5 and by
confequence neither can the Ceremony be call’d a Coronation.
At the time that Aureng-z.eb took pofleflion o f the Throne, he would not eat
any wheaten-bread, nor meat, nor fifh, but fed upon barly-bread, herbs and Iweet-
meats, which was a kind o f Penance that he impos’d upon him lelf for fo manv
crimes. r 1
When Aureng-zxb was fettl’d in the Empire, feveral Embafladors came to feh a-
nabat to congratulate him, on the behalf o f the Kings their Matters, as from the
King o f the VsbeckTartars , the Sheriff o f M ecca, the Prince o f BalCara, and the
Kings o f A ra bia F e lix , and Ethiopia . The Hollanders alfo fent M en b eir Adrican,
cruel o f their Faftory in Surat , who was kindly receiv’d, and firft difpatch’d. For
. lb a t,° ^.eeP tlie Embafladors a good while at Court before they
. u ience< All thefe Embafladors prefented Aureng-z^eb with the rarities o f
’ W^ ° t0 ^Ct a § ° ° d name in A fia , fent them away very

^e^ore t^ie death o f Cha-jehan, Aureng~z,eb fent an Embaflador

t c J j t ai W j ° was^magnificently receiv’d. F o r a month together he was nothing
but lealted and carefs d with all manner o f divertifements. The day that he was
t©
 Book II * Travels in I nsia. 121
to make his Prefent from the Great Mogul, the King o f Perfia fate upon his
Throne in a moft magnificent h ab it; and having receiv’d the Embaffador’s Pre­
fent,be prefently divided it in contempt among theOfficers o f hisHoufe ; only keep­
ing for him felf a Diamond that weigh’d iixty Carats. Some few days after he call’d
for the Embafiador, and after fome difcourfe,he ask’d him i f he were o f the Seft o f
theTurks ? T o which the Embaffador returning an anfwer,and leting fome Words fall
againftii/h/y.theKing ask’d him what his name was. ? He reply’d thzxCha-jehan had
given him theName o f Baubec~kar;,x\\'iX \s,Lord of a free heart-,and had honour’d him
with one o f thp chief employments at Court. Then th’art a Villain,rqfty’d the King
o f Perjta, w ith an angry countenance, to defert thy Sovereign in his neceflity,
having receiv’d fo many favours from him, aud to ferve a Tyrant, that keeps His
Father in Prifon, and has maffacr’d all his Brothers. How dares he, purfu’d the
King, take upon him the arrogant Title o f Alcm-guir Aurmg-Jha, or King o f all
the W orld, who never conquer’d any thing, but pofiefies! all he has by treachery
and parricide ? Halt thou been one o f thofe that counfell’d him to fhed fo much
blood, to be the Executioner o f his Brothers, and to keep his Father in Prifon ?
Thou art not worthy to wear a Beard ; and with that immediately caus’d it to be
fhav’d o ff; which is the greateft - indignity that can be put upon a man in that
Countrey. Shortly after he commanded the Embaffador to return home, fending
along .with him for a Prefent to Aureng-t^eb, an hunder’d and fifty beautiful Horfes,
•with a great quantity o f Gold and Silver-Carpets, Cloath o f Gold, rich Shafhes,
and other Stuffs, to a vaft value. When Baubec-k^n was come back to Agra,
where the King then was, Aurerg~z.eb incens’d at the affront which the Sop°hi o f
Perfia had giv’n him in the perfon o f his Embaflaclor, he took the Horfes and Pent
fome o f them into the great P ta ^ a , others to the corners o f the Streets, caufing
it to be proclaim’d that the followers o f Hedy could not ride thofe Horfes without
being- Nigss, that is to fay, unclean, as coming from a King that did not obey the
true L aw . After that he caus’d the Horfes to be kill’d, and all the reft Of the
Prefent to be burnt; uttering many reproachful words againft the King o f Perjiai
■ With w hom he was mortally offended.
A t length Cha-jehan happ’ning to dye toward the end o f the year 16 6 6 .
A nnng-z-cb found him felf rid o f an objeft that every hour reproach’d his Tyran­
n y ; and began to enjoy himfelf with more delight. Soon after he receiv’d his
Sifter Begum-Sabeb into favour, reftoring to Her all her Governments, and giving
her the Name o f Cba-Begum,.t\m is to fay, Princefs Queen. The truth is, fhe is
a Woman o f prodigious parts, and able to govern the whole Empire. And had
her Father and Brothers taken her counfel at the beginning o f the War, A nren g-
z.eb had never been King. As for Rauchem ra Begum his Sifter, fhe had always
taken his fide, and when fhe heard he had taken Arms, fhe fent him all the Gold
and Silver fhe could procure. In recompence w hereof he promis’d her, when he
came to be K ing, to give her the Title o f Cba-Begum , and that fhe fhould fit up­
on a Throne : in all which he was as good as his word 5 and they continu’d very
loving together till I was laft at Genanabat: but then they were not fo good
friends upon this occafion. The Princefs having cunningly ftoll’n into her Apart­
ment a handfom young fellow , could not fo privately let him out again after fhe
had quite tir’d him ; but the King was advertiz’d thereof. Thereupon the Pnn-
cefs to prevent the fhame and reproach, ran to the King in a great pretended
friaht and told him that there was a man got into the H aram , even to her very
Chamber" and that his intention was certainly either to have kill’d or robb d her :
that fuch a thing was never feen; that it concern’d the fafety o f his Royal Perfon,
and that he would do well to punifh feverely the Eunuchs that kept guard that
nifrht Prefently the King ran in perfon with a great number o f Eunuchs, fo that
the poor young man had no Way to efcape but by leaping out o f a window into
the R iv e r that runs by the Palace-w alls; whereupon a world o f people ran out to
pei/e him • the King commanding them to do him no harm, but to carry^ him to
the Officer o f Ju itic e : However he has been not heard o f ever fince that time.

* R CHAP.
* t\
CHAP. V III.
Of the ‘Preparations againft the Feafi of the Great M o g u l, when he
' is weigh'd folemnly every year. Of the richnefs of his Thrones,
and the Magnificence of his Court.

T His great Feaft begins the fourth o f November, and Iafts five days. They
ufually weigh the King at the time o f his B ir th ; and i f he weighs more
than he did the year before, there is great rejoicing. When he is weigh d he
feats himfelf upon the richeft o f his Thrones ; and then all the Grandees o f
the Kingdom come to congratulate and prelent him. The Ladies o f the Court
fend him their Prefents aifo, as likewife do the Governours o f Provinces, and
others in great Employments. The Prefents confift o f Jew els, Tiflfues, Carpetts
and other Stuffs ; befides Camels, Elephants, Horfes, and indeed any thing that
is rare and o f value. ’ Tis laid he receives that day thirty Millions o f Livres.
They begin to prepare for this Feaft the feventh o f September, about two
Months before it begins. The firft thing they do, is to cover the tw o great
Courts overhead, from the middle o f each Court to the Hall, which is open
upon three fides. The Pavilions that cover thefe two void places, are o f Pur­
ple Velvet, Embroider'd with Gold, and fo weighty, that the Potts which fuftain
them are as big "as the Matt o f a S h ip ; fome thirty, fome forty foot high.
There are thirty-eight o f thefe Potts to uphold the Tent in the firft C o u rt;
and thole next the Hall, are plated with Gold as thick as a Ducket. The reft
are plated with Silver o f the fame thicknefs. The Cords are o f Cotton o f divers
colours j fome o f them as big as a good Cable. ,
The firft Court is furrounded with Portico's and little Chambers, where the
Omrahs keep Guard. For every eight days the Omrahs relieve the G u ard ;
and during thofe eight days, the Omrah who is upon the Guard, has a D ifh o f
M eat out o f the Kings Kitchin. When he fees it comihg afar offj he makes
three obeyfances, laying his hand three times upon the Ground, and three times
upon his Head, crying out at the fame time, God preferve the Kings health,
give him long Life and Vidtory over his Enemies. They take it for a great
Honour to Guard the K in g; and when they go upon the Guard, they put on
all their moft fumptuous A pparel; and their H orfes, C am els, and Elephants
are all richly adorn’d. Some o f the Camels carry a fmall Piece o f Ordinance,
with a man behind to fhoot it off. The meaneft o f thefe Omrahs commands
a thoufand H orfe; bat i f he be a Prince o f the Blood, he commands fix thou-
fand.
The Great Mogul has feven Thrones, fome fet all over with D iam onds; others
with Rubies, Emraulds, and Pearls.
The largeft Throne, which is fet up in the Hall o f the firft Court, is in form'
like ene o f our Field-Beds, fix foot long, and four broad. The Cufhion at the
back is round like a B o lfter; the Cufhions on the fides are flat.
I counted about a hundred and eight pale Rubies in C o lle ts, about this
Throne, the leaft w hereof weigh’d a hundred C a ra ts; but there are fome that
weigh two hundred. Emraulds I counted about a hundred and fixty, that weigh’d
fome threefcore, fome thirty Carats. <?
The under-part o f the Canopy is all embroider’ d with Pearls and Diamonds,
with a-Fringe o f Pearls round about. Upon the top o f the Canopy, which is
made like an Arch with four Panes, ffands a Peacock, w ith his Tail fpread,
confifting all o f Saphirs, and other proper colour’d Ston es; the Body is o f bea­
ten Gold, enchas’ d with feveral J e w e ls ; and a great R u b y upon his breaft, at
which hangs a Pearl, that weighs fifty Carats. On each fide o f the Peacock
ftand two N ofe-gays, as high as the Bird, confifting o f feverabforts o f Flowers,
all o f beaten Gold enamel’d. When the King feats him felf upon the Throne,
there is a tranfparent Jew el, with a Diamond Appendant, o f eighty or ninety
Carats, encompafs’d with Rubies and Emraulds, fo hung that it is always in his
Eye,
 Eye. The twelve Pillars alfo that uphold the .Canopy, are ftt with rows o f
fair Pearl, refund, and o f an excellent Water, that weigh from fix to ten Ca­
rats apiece. At the diftance o f four feet, upon each fide o f the Throne, are
plac’d two Parafols, or Umbrello’s, the handles w hereof are about eight foot
high, cover’ d with Diamonds ; the Parafols .themfelves are o f crimfon Velvet,
embroider’d and fring’d with Pearls.
This is the famous Throne which Tamerlane began, and Cha-jehan finifh’d j
which is really reported to have coft a hundred and fixty Millions, and five
hundredr thoufand Livres o f our Money.
Behind this ftately and magnificent Throne there is another lets, in the form
o f a Tub, where the King bathes himfelf; it is an Oval, (even foot long, and
five broad. The outfide whereof fhines all over with Diamonds and Pearls j
but there is no Canopy over it.
Com ing into the firft Court, on the right hand, you lee a particular Tent,
w here during all the Feaft, the Morice-Dancers are appointed to make Iport,
while the King fits upon his Throne. On the left hand is another Tent, appointed
for the principal Officers o f the Army and Houfhold.
In the fame Court, while the King fits upon his Throhe, are to be leen thirty
Horles, fifteen upon one fide, and fifteen upon the other, lead by two men.
Their Bridles are very fhort, but for the moft part enrich’d with Diamonds,
Rubies, Emraulds, and Pearls, the Bits w hereof are o f pure Gold. Every Horfe
wears between his Ears a rich Plume o f Feathers, with a little Cufhion upon
his Back, ty’d on with a Sureingle; both being embroider’d with Gold • and
about his Neck hung fome fair J e w e l, which was either a Diamond , a
R uby, or an Emrauld. The worft o f thofe Horfes coft three thoufand, fome
five thoufand Crowns ; and fome there were, that were never bought under
ten thoufand. The young Prince, who was between fevep and eight years old,
rode upon a Horfe no higher than a good big Greyhound, but very well
fhap’ d.
A bout an hour after the King has bin fitting upon his Throne,(even flout Elephants
bred up for War, are brought out. One o f thofe Elephants has his Seat fix’ d
upon his back, if the King ffiould have a mind t<^ ride out. The others are
cover’d with Cloaths richly embroider’d, with Chains o f Gold and Silver about
their N ecks 5 and there are four that carry the Kings Standard upon their Crup­
pers, fatten'd to a Half-Pike, which a man feated on purpofe clofe by, holds
upright with his hand. Thefe Elephants are brought Within fifty paces o f the
Throne, and when they come before the King, they make their obeyfances to
him, laying their Trunks to the ground, and then lifting them up above therr
Heads three tim e s; every time he makes a great cry, and then turning his
back to the King, one o f the Leaders turns up the Cl oath, that the King m ay
fee he is in good cafe. There belongs alfo to every one a Cord, which is put
round his body, to fhew how much he is grown fince the laft year. The firft
o f thefe Elephants, which the King moft efteems, is a great furious Creature,
that has five hundred Roupies allow’d him every month. He is fed With good
. Victuals, and a great quantity o f Sucre, and they give him udqua-vita to drink.
When the King rides forth upon his Elephant, the Omrahs follow on Horfeback.
And when he rides on Horfeback, the Omrahs follow him on foot.
A fter the King has feen his Elephants, he rifes up, and goes into his Horam
through a little oval door behind the Throne. , ,
Thq five other Thrones are fet up in another magnificent Hail m another
C o u rt’ ail cover’d over with Diamonds, without any colour’d Stone.
When the King has ftaid about h alf an hour, he comes out again, attended
b y three or four Eunuchs, and feats himfelf in the other Hall, upon the middle-.
moft o f the five Thrones, where the Omrahs come, as long as the five days Of
the Feftival laft, and make their Prefents to him,

m
 ' f
CHAP. IX.
Some other Observations upon the Court of the Great Mogul.

A Fter Aureng-z.eb had fetled him fclf in the Em pire, which he ufurp’ d from
his Father and his Brothers, he impos'd upon him felf a very fevere penance,
eating nothing but Pulfe and Sweet-m eats, which has made him very meagre
and lean. 'All the time the Comet lafted in the year 1665-, which appear'd
very great in the Indies, where I then w as, Aureng-z.eb drank nothing but Wa­
ter, and eat nothing but Bread made o f M ille t; which lo impair d his health,
that it had like to have coft him his life. Befides, he alw ays lay upon the
ground, only w ith a Tigers Skin under him 5 fince which tim e he has never been
perfe&ly well.
I faw him drink three feveral times, while he fate upon his Throne j to which
purpofe he had brought him a large Cup o f Chriftal o f the Rock, round and all
o f a piece, with a Gold Cover, enrich’d with Diamonds, Rubies, and Emraulds,
the foot thereof being o f the fame. But no perfon fees the King eat, only his
Wives and his Eunuchs. And it is but very rarely that he goes to Dine or
Sup with any o f his Subjects. When I was laft in India; Giafer-Kan, who w as
his Grand E'ifier, and his Uncle by marriage o f his Wife, invited the King to
lee a new Palace which he was building, who went accordingly, and it was the
greateft Honour his M ajelly could do him 5 in retaliation whereof, Giafer-Kan
and his Wife prefented. him with Jew els, Elephants, Cam els, Horles, and other
things, to the value o f a Million and fifty thoufand Livres o f our Money. F o r
Giafer-Kan s W ife is the moil magnificent and liberal Woman in all India, and
fpends more her fe lf than all the Kings Wives and Daughters, which makes
her Husband in debt, though he be almoft Lord o f all the Empire.
When the King is carried* in his' Pallekj to the Mofquee, one o f his Sons
follows him a Horfeback, afld all his Omrabs and Officers o f his Houlhold come
behind him a foot. Thole that are Mahometans Hay for him at the top o f
the alcent to the Mofquee, and when he is ready to come out, they march
before him to m e Gate o f his Palace. Eight Elephants always go before the
King, to every cute o f which belong tw o men ; one to lead the Elephant, and
the other, who fits upon his back, carries a Standard fix’d to a Half-Pike. The
other four carry Seats or Thrones upon their backs, the one fquare, the other
round $ one c d ffr ’d, the other inclos’d with Glafs o f feveral falhions. When
the King goes abroad, he has ufually five or fix hundred men to attend him
for his Guard, arm’ d every one with a kind o f an Half-Pike. To the heads o f
their Pikes they tye two Squibs crols-wlle, about a foot long, and as big as
a mans Arm, which will carry the Half-Pike five hundred paces. The King
rs alfo attendee^ by three or four hundred Mulquateers; but they are v ery
Cowards, and hardly know how to ffioot off their pieces. He has alfo a cer­
tain number o f Cavalry, which are Soldiers much alike. A hundred Europeans
might well beat a thoufand Indians j but they would hardly accuftom them -
Uelves to live fpch fober lives. For as well the Horfe as the Infantry will live
upon Meal kneaded with Water and brown Sugar; hut in the evening, when'
they have convenience, they make JQ'uicherj, which is R ice boil’d in Water and
S a lt , with a Grain fo call’d. When they eat it, they ftir it with the
ends o f their Fingers in melted Butter, which is the ufual food o f the Sol­
diers and poor people. Befide, the heat would kill our Souldiers, who would
never be able to endure the Sun all the day long, as the Indians do. By the
w ay, give me leave to tell you, that the Country people have no other cloath-
mg than a piece o f Linnen to hide their fecret parts, being miferably poor 5
for i f their GoVeffiours know they have any thing about them, they feize it
either as their right, or by force. There are fome Provinces in India that
lye wafte, the N atives -being forc’ d to fly, by reafbn o f the cruelty o f their
Govemours, Under the pretence o f being Mahometans they perfecute the poor
Ido-
 Idolaters beyond all meafure ; and i f any o f them embrace Mahumetifm, ’tis only
becaufe they tyould not work any longer. For then they turn Souldiers or Faquirs,
who are a fort o f people that profeft a renunciation o f the World, and live upon
Alms but are indeed very Rafcals. They reckon that there are in India 800060
o f thele Mahttmetan Faquirs, and tw elve hunder’d thoufand Idolaters.
0 ,nce in fifteen days the King goes a Hunting, mounted upon his Elephant, and
fo continues during the chafe. All the Game he takes is brought within Musket-
Ihot o f his Elephants. Which confifts generally o f Lions, Tigers, Harts, and wild-
Goats. For they will not meddle with Boars, as being Mahometans. When he
returns hom e, he puts himfelf into his Pallekj, and goes in the fame order, and
with the fame Guard, as when he returns from the Mofquee, laving that when he
goes a Hunting, he' is attended with three or four-hunder’d Horfemen, that ride
without any difcipline in the World.
As for the PrincelTes, as well the W ives, Daughters and Sifters o f the King,
they never ftir out o f the Palace, unlefs it be to fpend a few days in the Countrey
for their pieafure. Some o f them go abroad, but very rarely,to vifit fome great
Noble-mens Wives, as the Wife o f Giafer-Kan, who is the King’s Aunt. But that
k only by particular leave o f the King. And then it is not the cuftom as mP&fia,
w here the Ladies make their vifits only by night, and with a great number o f
Eunuchs, who clear the Streets o f all people they meet. For in the MoguPs
Court, they ufually go out about nine in the morning, with only three or four
Eunuchs, and ten or tw elve Slaves, which are inftead o f Maids o f Honour.
The PrincelTes are carri’d in PallekPs cover’d over with Embroider’d Tapeftry,
and a little Coach to hold one fingle perfon that follows the Pallek}, drawn by
two men, the wheels not being above a foot in diameter. I h e reafon why they
carry that Coach along with them, is, becaufe that when the PrincelTes arrive at
the Houfe where they intend to alight, the men that carry the Palleki, not being
perm itted to go any farther than the firft Gate,they then take their Coaches,and are
drawn by their female-Slaves to the Womens Apartment. I have alfo obferv’ d,
that in all the Houfes o f great Noble-men, the Womens Apartment is at the far­
ther-end o f all. So that you rauft crols two or three great Courts, and a Garden
or tw o, before you can come at it.
When the PrincelTes are married to. any o f the Court-Grandees, they become
abfolute Miftrelles o f their Husbands; fb that i f they ftudy not to pleale them,
and do not as they would have them, in regard o f their free accefs to the King,
they over-rule the King many times to their prejudice, even to the turning them
out o f their employments. , , , ,
As it is a cuftom that the firft-born always is Heir to the Throne, though he be
the Son o f a Slave, fo Toon as the PrincelTes o f the King’ s Haram perceive that
there is any one among them big with Child,they d e all the atufices imaginable to
make them mifcarry. Infomiych that being at Patna tn the year 16 6 6 , cha~Efi~
x f l chirurgeon affur’ d me, that the Wife o f Cha-Efi-Kan had procur d the
mifcarrying o f eight Women, becaufe fhe would fuffer no other Womens Children
but her own.

• 'ik '

■. W |
./ i
* ' '

CHAP.
4 ------- ----------- -----------------— -------------- “ 7 " ‘

CH AP. X.

0 / the Commodities which are brought as well out of the Dominions

J of the Great Mogul, as out of the Kingdoms of Golconda and Vifa-
pour, and other neighbouring Territories.

* w iU be neceflaty for the Reader to take notice what I have already laid con­

»-
r cerning the Weights and Meafures in ufe among the India™, where I fpoke con-
• cerning the Mmss, and the Serre. N ow for the Cobit.
* The Cobit is a meafure for all Commodities that are meaford by the Ell, o f
which there are feveral forts, as in Europe there are leveral forts Of Ells. The
Cobit is divided into 24 Tafots: and in regard the greateft part o f the Commo­
dities o f India are utter’d at Surat, I have given you a delcription in the margin
Jv f o f the fourth part o f a Surat-Cobit, divided into fix Tafots.

Of their Silk;

j r ytfembafar, a Village in the Kingdom o f Bengala, fends abroad every year

gH I V two and twenty-thoufand Bales o f Silk 5 every Bale weighing a hunder’d
ig p i pound. The two and twenty Bales make two millions and two-hunder’d-thoufand
pound', at fixteen ounces to the pound. The Hollanders ufually carry away fix or
» H • leven-thoufand Bales,and would carry away more,did not the Merchants o f Tan ary,
*♦ P H »* and the Mogul’s, Empire oppofe them; for they buy up as much as the Hollander 5
the reft the Natives keep to make their Stuffs. This Silk is all brought into the
Kingdom o f Guz.erat, the greateft part whereof comes to Amadabat, and to Surat,
P ip , where it is wrought up.
In the firft place they make Carpets o f Silk and Gold, others o f Silk and '
Silver, others all o f Silk : For the Worfted- Carpets are' made at Tettapour, fome
• twelve leagues from Agra.
* * W m * >' In rhe ^ cond Piace ^ e y make Satins with breaks o f Gold and Silver 5 others
plain: with Taffata’s after the fame fafhion.
mm In the third place they make Patoles, which are a fort o f Silk-ftuff very thin,,
but painted with all forts of Flowers, the manufacture whereof is at Amadabat„
They coft from eight Roupies to forty the piece. This is a Commodity wherein
• IP f the Dutch will not Buffer any one o f the Hollanders to trade in particular : for
• IS 8 * rhey tranfport it to the Philippine-Iflands, to the Iilands df Borneo, java, Sumatra,
* l U i * * and other neighbouring Ifiands.,
h h | The raw-Silk o f Kafembafar is yellowifh, as are all the raw-Silks that come from
Perfia and Sicily 5 but the Natives o f Kafembafar have a way to whiten it, with
a Lye made o f the afoes o f a Tree which they call Adam's Fig-tree; Which
makes it as white as the Palejltne-Silk. The Hollanders fend away all their M er-
|p | j ehandize which thev fetch out of Bengala, by water, through a great Canal that
* O f * runs fr°m Kafembafar into Ganges, for fifteen leagues together; from whence
r* |||ljl« * it is as far by water down the Ganges to Ouguely, where they lade their Ships.

Of the Calicuts : andfirfl of the painted Calicuts, call’d Chites.

11||| f i n i t e s or Painted Calicuts, which they call Calmendar, that is to fay, done with
V v a Pencil, are made in the Kingdom of Golconda; and particularly about
- Mafipatan. But there is made fo little, that though a man fhould employ all
* the Workmen that underftand the art o f weaving Calicuts, he would hardly
find enough to make three Bales.
The Chites which are made in the Empire of the Great Mogul are all Printed;
and nothing fo beautiful, neither for the figures nor the finenefs o f the Linnen.
Thofe which are made at Labor, are the coarfeft, and confequently the cheapeft o f
all. They are fold by Corges, every Gorge confifting o f twenty pieces, which coft
from 1 6 to 30 Roupies,
The
 B o o k ll T ra vels in I ndi a . 127
The Chitss which are made at Seronge, are fold from 20 to 50 Roupies the
Gorge, or thereabouts.
Thefe Chites ferve for Coverlets for Beds, for Sofia’s or Table-cloaths after the
Countrey-fafhion, Pillowbears, Handkerchiefs, but more efpecially for Waftcoats
as well for the men as women in Perfta.
The fine QzX\cut-Chites are made at Brampour; and are us’ d for handkerchiefs
by thofe that fnuff Tobacco.
The women alfo, over all Afia, make Veils o f thefe Calicuts, to wear over their
heads, and about their fhoulders, which Veils are call’d Ormis,
The Baftas or Calicuts painted red, blue, and black, are earn’d white to Agra,
and Amadabat, in regard thofe Cities are neareft to the places where the Indigo is
made that is us’d in colouring. They coft from two Roupies to 30 or 40 a-piece,
according to the finenefs and the quantity o f Gold at the ends, and fometimes up­
on the fides. The Indians have a way to dip feme o f thefe Calicuts in a certain
w ater that makes them look like Water’d-Chamlets, which adds alfo to the
price. . ,
That fort which is fold for two Roupies, and fo onward till ye come to. twelve,
is tranfported to the Coaft o f M elin da 3 and it is the greateft Trade the Governour
o f M ozam bique drives, who fells them to the Cafres, that vend them again among
the Abrftfins, and into the Kingdom o f S a b a : for thofe people not underftanding
the ufeyo f Soap, need no more but only to wafh thefe Calicuts in water. That
ibrt which is valu’d from 1 2 Roupies upward, is tranfported to the Philippine-
Illands, the Iflands o f Borneo, fa v a , Sum atra, and other adjacent places. Where
the women wear no other clothes, than a fingle piece o f this Calicut. _ One part
whereof, without cutting it, ferves for a Petticoat; the other they wind about
their ftomachs and their heads.

White Calicuts.

\ T \ T Hite Calicuts come partly from Agra, arid about Labor, part from Ben-
V V gala: feme from Brouda, Baroche, Renonftari, and other places. They
are brought out o f the Loom to Renonftari, and Barocve, where they are whiten d
by reafon o f the convenience o f their Meadows, and the great ftore o f Limans
“ that grow thereabouts. For the Calicuts are never fo white as they fhould be,
till they are dipt in Limon-water.
The Calicuts that come from Agra, Labor, and Behgala, are fold by the Corge,
and they are o f feveral prices, from feventeen Roupies to three or four-hunder d3
as the Merchant will have them w ov’n.
The Calicuts that-come from Renonftari, and Baroche, are one and twenty cubits
long, new out o f the L o o m ; but in the whitening they fhrink to twenty cu-

Thofe o f Brouda twenty cubits from the Loom , and fhrink in the whitening to
nineteen and a half. ■• g . c r .
All the Calicuts or Baft o’s that come from thefe three Cities, are o f two fo rts.
for fome are broad, fome are narrow. The narrow are thofe I have already men­
tion’d, the prices w hereof are various, from two Mamoudds to fix.. ,
The broad Bafto’s are a cubit, and one third part wide 5 the whole piece twenty
cubits long. The ufual price o f them is from five Mamoudi s to tw elve . but a
Merchant being upon the place, m ay caufe them to be made much more a g
fine, will they are worth five-hunder d Mamoudi s a-piece. I faw two pieces fold

f ° T h t^Englifh bought one, and the Hollanders another, each piece containing eight
^M aham ed Alibeg returning into Perfta out o f India where be had been Em -
baffador, prefented C/w-Se/the fecond with a Coco-nut, about the bignefs o f an
Auftrich-egg, all befet with Pearls : and when it was open d there was taken out
o f it a Turbant that had fixty cubits o f Calicut in length to make it, the Cloath be-
ins fo fine,thar you could hardly feel it in your hand. For they will fpin their thread
foSfine, that the eye can hardly difeern it, or at leaft it feems to be but a Cob­
web. Twfted
 Twified-Cotton. <

C Otton twitted and untwifted comes from the Provinces o f Brampour and Gu-
z,erat. Untwifted Cotton is never tranfportecl into Europe, being too cum-
berfome, and o f little value ; only they fend it to Ormus, Baljdra, and fometimes
to the PhilippUe-Iflands, and the Iflands o f Sinde. As for the twitted Cottons,
the EttgUJh and Hollanders tranfport a good quantity, not o f the fineft, but o f that
fort which is priz’d from fifteen to fifty Mamoudis: It ferves for wieks for Can­
dles, for Packfaddles, and for the ground o f Silk-ftufFs;

Indigo.

Ndigo comes from foveral parts o f the Great Mogul’s E m p ire; and according
I to the diverfity o f the places it differs in quality, and confoquently in price.
In the firft place, it comes from the Territories o f Biaha, lndoua, and Corfa, a
day or two’s journey from Agra : which is efteem’d the beft o f all. It is made
alfo eight days journey from Surat, in a Village call’d Sarqnefs, tw o leagues
diftance from Amadabat. Here the flat Indigo is made. There is alfb Indigo lit­
tle inferior in goodnefs and price, which comes from the King o f Golcondds Ter­
ritories. The Mein o f Surat, which contains 42 Serre’s, or 34 and a half o f our
pounds, is valu’d from 15- to 20 Ron pres. They make as good as this at Bar'oche.
That which is made up about Agra is made up in half Balls, and is the moft fought
for in all India. It is fold by the Mein, which in thofo places contains 60 Serves#
or 5-1 and three quarters o f our pounds. The tribal price is from 36 to 40 R o u -
pies. There grows alfo Indico fome 36 leagues from Brampour, about a great
Village call’d Raout, and round about the neighbouring Towns in the road to Surat:
O f which the N atives ufually make above a hunder’d-thoufand Roupies.
There comes Indigo alfo from Bengala, which the A/W/W-Company tranfports
for Majlipatan. But they buy this Indigo, and that o f Brampour and Amadabatt
cheaper by 2 4 in the hunder’d, than that o f Agra.
Indigo is made o f an Herb which they fow every year after the rains are over :
which when it is grown up, is very like our Hemp. They cut ic three times a
y e a r ; firft when it is about two or three foot high ; and they cut it within h a lf
a foot o f the ground ; the firft cutting far exceeds the two latter. The fecond
cutting is worfo than the firft by ten or twelve in the hunder’d, and the third
worfe than the fecond by twelve in the hunder’d. The difference is found
by breaking a piece o f the Pafte, and obforving the colour. The colour o f
that Indigo which is made o f the firft cutting, is a Violet-blue, but more brisk
and lively than the two others: and that which is made o f the fecond is more
lively than the third.
When they have-cut the Herb, they throw it into Pits which they make with
Lime, which becomes fo hard, that you would judg it to be one intire piece o f
Marble. Ih e y are generally fourfoore or a hunder’d paces in circuit; and being
half full of w ater, they fill them quite up with the Herb. Then they bruife and
jumble it in the water till the leaf, for the ftalk is worth nothing, become like a
kind o f thick mud. This being done, they let it fettle for fome days ; and when
the fetling is all at the bottom, and the water clear above, they let out all the
water. When the water is all drain’d out, they fill foveral baskets with this.flime,
and in a plain Field you fhall fee foveral men at work, every one at his owtibafo
ket, making up little pieces o f Indigo flat at the bottom, at the top {harp like an
<egg. Though at Amadabat they make their pieces quite flat like a fmall cake
Here you are to take particular notice, that the Merchants, becaufe they would
not pay cuftom for an unneceffary weight, before they tranfport their Indigo out
Of AJia into Europe, are very careful to caufe it to be fifted, to foparate the duft
irom i t ; which they fell afterwards to the Natives o f the Countrey to dye their
Caucuts. I h e y that fift this Indigo muft be careful to keep a Linnen-cloath be­
fore their faces, and that their noitrils be weil-ftopt, leaving only two little holes
for their eyes. Befi.des, they muft every h alf hour be fore to drink milk, which
is a great prelervative againft the piercing quality o f the duft. Y et notwith-
ftanding
 Handing all this caution, they that have fifted Indigo for nine or ten days, {hall
{pit nothing but blew for a good while together. Once I laid an Egg in the
morning among the fifters, and when I came to break it in the evening it was
all blew within.
As they take the Pafte out o f the Baskets with their Fingers dipt in Oil, and
make it into Lumps, or Cakes they lay them in the Sun to dry. Which is the
reafon that when the Merchants buy Indigo, they burn fbme peices o f it, to try
whether there be any duft among it. For the Natives who take the Pafte out
o f the Baskets to make it into Lumps, lay it in the Sand, which mixes with the
Pafte, and fouls i't. But when the Merchants burn it, the Indigo turns to A flies,
and the Sand remains. The Governours do what they can to make the Natives
leave their Knavery but notwithftanding all their care, there will be fome de­
ceit.

Salt-Peter.

Reat ftore o f Salt-Peter comes from Agra and Patna ; but the refin’d cofts
G three times more than that which is not. The Hollanders have le tu p a
Ware-Houfe fourteen Leagues above Patna, and when their Salt-Peter is re­
find, they tranfport it by Water by Ogueli. A Mein o f refin’d Salt-Peter is worth
{even Mamoudi’s.

Spice:

G Ardamom, Ginger, Pepper, Nutmegs, Nutmeg-Flowers, Cloves and Cinna­

mon, are all the different forts o f Spices known to us. I put Cardamom
and Ginger in the firft place, becaufe that Cardamom grows in the Territories
o f Hifiapour, and Ginger in the Dominions o f the Great Mogul. And as for
other Spices, they are brought from other Foreign parts to Surat, which is the
- grand Mart.
Cardamom is the moft excellent o f all other Spices, but it is very foarce j
and in regard there is no great ftore in the place where it grows, it is only
made ufe o f in Afia, at the Tables o f great Princes. Five hundred pound o f
Cardamoms, are priz’d from a hundred to a hundred and ten Reals.
Ginger is brought in great quantities from Amadabat, where there grows
more than in any other part o f Afia ; and it is hardly to be imagin’d how much
there is tranlported candited into Foreign parts.
Pepper is o f two forts. There is a fort which is very fmall, another fort
much b ig g e r ; both which forts are diftinguifh’d into fmall and great Pepper,1
The larger fort comes from the Coaft o f Malavare ; and Tuticorin and Calicut
are the Cities where it is brought up. Some o f this Pepper comes from the
Territories o f the King o f Vtfiapour, being vended at Rejapour, a little C ity in
that Kingdom. The Hollanders that purchafe it o f the Malavares, do not give
Money for it, but feveral forts o f Commodities in Exchange ; as Cotton, Opium,
Vermillion, and Quickfilver ; and this is the Pepper which is brought into Eu­
rope. As for the little Pepper that comes from Bantam, Afchen, and fome other
parts toward the Eaft, there is none o f it carried out o f Afia, where it i's fpent
in vaft quantities, efpecially among the Mahumetans. For there are double the
Grains o f fmall Pepper in one pound, to what there are o f the great Pepper;
befides that the great Pepper is hotter in the mouth.
T he little Pepper that comes to Surat, has been fold fome years for thir­
teen or fourteen Mamoudi’s the Mein 5 and fo rm/ch I have feen the Englijh
give for it, to tranfport it to Ormus, Balfiara, and the Red Sea. As for the
great Pepper which the Hollanders fetch from the Coaft o f Malavare, five hun­
dred pound in truck brings them in not above thirty-eight R e als; but by the.
Commodities which they give in Barter, they gain Cent, per Cent.
The N utm eg, the N utm eg-Flow r, the C love, and Cinnamon, are the only
Spices which the Hollanders have in their own hands. The three firft come,
from the Molucca Iflands; the fourth, which is Cinnamon, from the LflarnTo f
Cejlan. £ g
 ‘Tis obfervable o f the Nutmeg, that the Tree which bears it is ntver planted,
which'has been confirm’d to me by feveral perfons that have liv’d feveral years
in the Country. They related to me, that the Nutmeg being ripe, feveral Birds
come from the Iflands toward the South, and devour it whole, but are^ forc’d to
throw it up again before it be digefted. The Nutmeg then befmear d with a
vifcous matter, falling to the ground takes root, and produces a Tree, which
would never thrive were it planted. This puts me in mind o f making one
obfervation upon the Birds o f Paradife. Thefe Birds being very greedy after
Nutm egs, come in flights to gorge themfelves with the pleafing Spice, at the
leafon, like Felfares in Vintage time ; but the ftrength o f the N utm eg f(^intoxi­
cates them, that they fall dead drunk to the Earth, where the Em ets in a fhort
time eat oif their Legs. Hence it comes, that the Birds o f Paradife are laid to
have no F e e t ; which is not true however, for I have feen three or four that
had F e e t ; and a French Merchant fent-one from Aleppo as a Prefent to Lewie
the Thirteenth that had F e e t ; o f which the King made great account, as being
a very lovely Fowl.
But notwithftanding all the Hollanders P ro jects, you may buy Gloves at
JWacaJfar without purchafing them o f the Hollander , in regard the Iflanders
buy them o f the Dutch Captains and Soldiers, which the Hollanders have in
thofe place where the Cloves grow, giving them in exchange Rice, and other
neceflaries for the fupport o f life, without which they would ftarve, being very
fadly provided for.
When the N atives o f Macaffar are thus furnifh’d o f Cloves , they barter
them in Exchange for fuch Commodies as are brought th e m ; fometimes they
give Tortoife-Shells in exchange, and Gold D u it ; by which the Merchant gains
fix or feven in the hundred; being better than the Money o f the Ifland, though
it be Gold, by reafon the King ofttimes enhances the value o f it. The places
where Cloves grow , are Amboyna, Ellias, Seram, and Bouro.
The Iflands o f Banda alfo, in number fix, viz.. Nero, Lontoury Fouicay, Rofe-
gain, and Grenapuis, bear Nutmegs in great abundance. The Ifland o f Gr.ena-
puis is about fix Leagues in compafs, and ends in a fharp point, where there is
a continual fire burning out o f the Earth. The Ifland Damme,. where there
grow s great ftore o f Nutmegs, and very big, was difeover’d in the year 16 4 7 ,
by Abel Tafman, a Dutch Commander.
The price o f Cloves and Nutmegs, as I have known them fold to the Hol­
landers at Suraty was as follows.
The Mein o f Surat contains forty Serres, which make thirty-four o f our
Pounds, at fixteen Ounces to the Pound.
A Mein o f Cloves was fold for a hundred and three Mamoudi’ s and a half.
A Mein o f Mace was fold for a hundred and fifty-feven Mamoudi’s and a
half.
Nutmegs for fifty-fix Mamoudi’ s and a half.
Cinnamon comes at prefent from the Ifland o f Ceylan. The Tree that bears
it is very much like the W illow, and has three Barks. They never take off but
the firft and fecond, which is accounted the beft. They never meddle with the
third, for fhould the Knife enter that, the Tree would dye. So that it is an
art to take off the Cinnamon, which they learn from their youth. T he Cinna­
mon Spice is much dearer to the Hollanders than people think ; for the King
o f Ceylan, other wife call’d King o f Candy, from the name o f his principal City,
being a fworn Enemy to the Hollanders, fends his Forces w ith an intention to
furprize them, when they gather their Cinnamon; fo that they are forc’d to
bring feven or eight hundred men together to defend as many more that are at
work. Which great expence o f theirs v ery much enhances the price o f the
Cinnamon. There grows upon the Cinnamon Tree a certain fruit like an O live,'
though not to be eaten. This the Fortugals w ere wont to put into a Caldron
o f Water, together with the tops o f the Branches, and boil’d it till the Water
was all confum’d. When it was cold, the upper part became a Pafte like white
Wax ; o f which they made Tapers to fet up in their Churches, for no fooner
w ere the Tapers lighted, but all the Church was perfum’d. Formerly the Por-
tugals brought Cinnamon out o f other Countries, belonging to the Raja's about
Cochin,
 Book II Travels ///India. •
_________ %-----:------------------------------------------- ------ ---------------------------------- ----------------------
12** 1
Cochin. But the Hollanders have deftroy d all thofo places, fo that the Cinna­
mon is now in their hands. When the Portugal had that Coaft, the Englijh
bought their Cinnamoajof them,and ufually paid for it by theMein fifty Mamoudi’s,

Drugs that are brought to Surat, and brought from other Countries, with
the price of every one by the Alein.

Salt Arm oniack, according to the ufual price, cofts by the Mein twenty
Mamoudi’ s.
Borax, comes unrefin’d from Amadabat, as does Salt Armoniack, and cofts
by the Mein thirty-five Mamoudi’s.
G um -Lack, foven Mamoudi’s and a half.
G um -Lack wafh’d, ten Mamoudi’s.
Gum -Lack in fticks o f Wax, forty Mamoudi’s.
There are fome o f thefe Sticks that coft fifty or fixty Mamoudi’s the Mein,
and more when they mix Musk in the Gum.
Saifron o f Su rat,which is good for nothing but for colouring, four Mamoudi’s
and a ha[f.
Cumin White, eight Mamoudi’s.
Cumin Black, three Mamoudi’s.
A rlet fmall, three Mamoudi’s.
F ra n k in c e n fo , that comes from the Coaft o f Arabia, three Mamoudi’s,
M yrrh, that which is good, call’d Mirra Gilet, thirty Mamoudi’s.
M yrrh Bolti, which comes from Arabia, fifteen Mamoudi’s.
CafTia, two Mamoudi’s.
Sugar Candy, eighteen Mamoudi’ s.
Afutinat, a fort o f Grain, very hot, one Mamoudi.
Annifo-Seed Grots, three Mamoudi’ s and a half.
Annife-Seed fmall and hot, one Mamoudi and a half.
Oupelote, a Root, fourteen Mamoudi’s.
Cointre, five Mamoudi’s.
Auzerouf, from Perfia, a hundred and twenty Mamoud^s.
Aloes Succotrihe, from Arabia, tv# n ty eight Mamoudi’s.
Licorice, four 'Mamoudi’s.
Lignum Aloes, in great pieces, two hundred Mamoudi &
Lignum Aloes, in fmall pieces, four hundred Mamoudi s.
Vez.-Cabouli, a certain Root, twelve Mamoudi’ s. , .
There is a fort o f Lignum Aloes very Gummy, which comes to, by the
Mein, four thoufand Mamoudi’ s. , ,
G um -Lake for the moft part comes from Pegu ; yet there is fome alfo brought
from Bengala, where it is very dear, by reafon the Natives fetch that lively Scar­
let colour out o f i t , with which they paint their Cahcuts. Neverthelefs,
the H ollanders buy it, and carry it into Perfia for the fame ufo
That which remains after the colour is drawn oft, is oniy fit to make feahng
Wax. That which comes from Pegu is not fo dear, though as good fo
Countries. The difference is only this, that it is not fo clean inegu, w er
the Pifmires foul it, as in Bengala, where it grows in a heathy ^acc &H o f
Shrubs, where thofe Animals cannot fo well come at it. The Inhabitants o f
Pegu ndVer make any ufo o f it in painting, being a dull fort 0 pe 11 »

111 Themv?om kal f !l U^ r gUeSt their livings by cleanfing the Lake aftej the Scar-
ler colour is drawn from it. After that they give it what colour the> pleale,
k d make it up into Sticks for foaling Wax. The En glijh and H ollan d Company
carryaw ay every year a hundred and fifty Chefts. The price is about ten Sous
th p o w d e r t Sugar is brought in great quantities out o f the Kingdom o f Bm -
j , l , : it cauies alfo a very great Trade at Ougeli, P g g *,
f have been told it for a ver? ^ bM te p" a n d ' t h a t

its Loaf‘ s,,g "

is alfo made at Amadabat, where they are perfectly skill’d in refining i t ; for
which reafon it is call’d Sugar Royal. Thefe Sugar-Loaves ufually weigh frorh
eight to ten pound.
Opium is brought from Brampour, a Town o f good Trade between Agra and
Surat. The Hollanders buy great quantities, which they truck for their Pep­
per.
Tobacco allb grows in abundance round about Brajnpour; fometimes there has
been fo much that the Natives have let vaft quantities rot upon the ground,
for want o f gathering.
Coffee grows neither in Perfia nor in India, where it is in no requeft ; but
the Hollanders drive a great Trade in it, tranfporting it from Or mm into Perfat
as far as Great Tartary, from Balfara into Caldea, Arabia , .Mefopotamia, and
other Provinces o f Turky. It was firft found out by a Hermite, whofe name
was Scheck^Siadeli, about twenty-years ago, before which time it wras never
heard o f in any Author either ancient or modern.

Deceits in Silk. Wares.

Plain Silk Wares may be alter’d in length, breadth, and quality. The qua­
lity (hews it fe lf when they are o f an even thread, when the weight is equal,
and when there is no Cotton thread in the Weft.
The Indians not having the art o f guilding filver, put into their ftrip’d
Wares threads o f pure Gold, fo that you muft count the quantity o f G old
threads to fee whether the Silk have its due number. And this alfo you muft
obferve in your Silks wov’ n With Silver. As for Taffata’s, you are only to mind
whether the pieces be all o f a finenefs, and to fee by unfolding fome o f them ,
that there be nothing within to augment the weight, and then weighing all
the pieces by themfolves, fo. fee that they all agree.
The colours o f thofe Carpetts which are made in In d ia , do not laft fo
long as the colour o f thofo which are made in Perfia ; but for the workman-
Ihip it is very lovely. The eye o f the Broaker is to judg o f the Jargeneft,
beau ty, and finenefs o f thofe Carpetts which are wrought with Gold and
Silver, and whether they be fine and rich. But whether they be Carpetts,
or other Stuffs mix’d with Gold and Silver, it behoves the Buyer to pull out
fome o f the Gold and Silver Threads, to fee whether they be o f the right
value or no.

Deceits in the White Calicuts.

The deceits ufually put upon Calicuts, are in finenefs, length, and breadth.
Every Bale may contain tw o hundred pieces ; among which they will juggle
in five or fix or ten, left fine, or left white, fhorter or narrower than accor­
ding to the ftantling o f the Bale, which cannot be found out but by examining
them piece by piece. The finenefs is diftern’d by the eye, the length and breadth
by the meafure. But the Indians practife a more cunning way, which is to
count the number o f threads which ought to be in the breadth, according to
the finenefs of the ftantling. When the number fails, it is either more tranf-
parent, more ^narrow, or more courfe. The difference is fometimes fo difficult
to be perceiv’d, that there is no w ay to find it out but by counting the (threads.
And yet this difference in a great quantity comes to a great deal. For it is no­
thing to coufen a Crown or tw o Crowns, in a piece that comes but to fifteen
or twenty Crowns. Thofe that wffiiten thefe Calicuts, to fave charges o f a
few Limons, will knock the Calicuts exceffively upon a Stone, which does fine
Calicuts a great injury, and loars the price.
As for their Calicuts dy’d blew or black, you muft take care that the Work­
men do not knock them after they are folded, to make them look fltek for many
times when they come to be unfolded, you fhall find holes in the creafes.
As for your painted and printed Calicuts, which are painted and printed as
they come out o f the Loom , the Merchant muft take care that what he be-
foeaks be finiffi’ d before the end o f the Rains, for the thicker the Water is
where
 where they are wafh’d, the more lively will the printed and painted colours ap­
pear. It is eafy to diftinguifh between the printed and the painted Calicuts;
and between the neatnefs o f the w o r k : but for the finenefs and other qua­
lities, they are not fo eafily difcern’d j and therefore the Broaker muft be more
careful.

Cheats in Cottom

H E cheat in the weight is twofold. The firft, by laying them in a moift

T places and thrufting in the middle o f every Skain fomething to add to the
weight. The fecond, in not giving good weight when the Broaker receives it
from the Workman, or Merchant that delivers it.
There is but one cheat in the quality, that is by putting three or four Skains,
o f a coarfer Commodity than that which is uppermoft, into one Mein.
Which in a great quantity mounts high ; for there are fome Cottons that
are worth an hunder’d Crowns the Mein. Thele two cheats being often
us’ d by the Holland-Com pany, there is no w ay but to weigh your Com­
modity in the prefence o f the Dutch-Comihander, and his Councel, and to
examine every Mein, Skain by Skain. When this is done, they who are
order’d to be at this examination, are oblig’ d to fix to every Bale 'a ticket
o f the weight and q u ality: for i f there be a faileur, they who fix the ticket
are engag’ d to make good what is wanting.

Deceits in Indigo.

I Have told you, that when the Work-men have made up the Indigo-Pafte into
lumps, with their fingers dipt in Oil, they lay them in the Sun a drying. Now
thole that have a defign to cheat the Merchants, dry them in the fand, to the end
that the land flicking to the Indigo, fhould encreafe the weight. Sometimes they
lay up their Pafte in moift places, which makes ir give, and confequently renders
it m ore heavy. But i f the Governour o f the placedifeovers the cheat, he makes
them feverely pay for i t : and the belt way of difeovery is to burn fome pieces o f
Indigo, for the land will remain.

Indian Breakers.

HE Breakers are as it were the Mailers o f the IndiatiFmiWks; for they have
T all Goods at their difpoial. The Work-men choofe the molt aged and molt
experienc’d, who are to endeavor equal advantages for the whole Tribe they under­
take for. Every evening that they return from their bufinefs,and that, according to
the cuftom o f the Indians, who make no Suppers, they have eaten fome little
piece o f fweet-m eat, and drank a glafs o f water, the eldeft o f the Tribe meet at
the Breaker’s Houfe, who gives them an account o f what he has done that day,
and then they confult what he is to do next. Above all things, they caution him
to look to his hits, and to cheat, rather tipn be cheated.

C H A P.
 / , " ' ' _ ,•

134- Travels in I n d ia. PartH.

' ' C

CHAP. XT.
0 / 'Diamonds, the Mines and Rivers where they are found; and
first of the Author’s journey to the Mine of Raolconda.

T H E Diamond is the moft precious o f all Stones, and it was in that fort o f
Commodity wherein I moft dealt. And therefore to acquire a perfect ex­
perience, I went to all the Mines ; and to one o f the Rivers where they are
found. To which purpoie I travell’d to four Mines ; o f which I will give you a
defcription ; and o f one o f the Rivers where I have alfo been.
The firft o f thefe Mines, where I was., is in the Territories o f the King o f V i-
fapour, in the Province o f Carnatica ; and the place is call’d Raolconda, five days
journey from Golconday and eight or nine from Vifapour. This Mine was diicover’d
not above two-hunder’d years ago, as I was inform’ d by thofe o f the Coun­
trey.
Round about the place where the Diamonds are found, the ground is Tandy, full
o f Rocks, much refembling the parts near Fountain-Blear.. There are in the
Rocks feveral veins, fome half a finger, fome a wdiole finger-w ide: And the
Miners make ufe o f irons with hooks at the end,-with which thep pick out the
earth or band, which they put into tubs, and among that earth they find the D ia­
monds. But becaufe thefe veins do not run.always ftreight, but iometimes down,
fometimes upward, the Miners are conftrain’d to break the Rock, following always
the trace o f the veins : When they have open’ d all the veins, and taken out all
the (and, then they wafh it two or three times over to look for the Diamonds.
In this Mine it is that they find the cleaned: Stones, and o f the whiteft water.
But the mifchief is, that to fetch the land out o f the Rock, they are forc’d to
ftrike fuch terrible blows with a great Iron-leaver, that they flaw the Dia­
mond, and make it look like Cryftal. Which is the reafon there are found fo
many fbffc Stones in this Dia'mond-Mine, though they make a great (hew. I f the
Stone be clean, they only give it a turn or two upon the wheel, not caring to fhape
it, for fear o f lofing the weight. I f there be any flaws, or any points, or any
black or red fpecks in it, they cut all the Stone into Foftets; or i f there be only
a little flaw, they work it under the ridg o f one o f the Foftets, to hide the de-
fedt. N ow becaufe a Merchant defires rather to have a black fpeck than a red
o n e ; ’ tis but burning the Stone, and the fpeck becomes black. This trick at
length I underftood fo well, that when I faw any Stones in them that came from
the Mine made into Foftets, efpecially very ftnall ones, I was certain there was
either fome fpeck or fome flaw in the Stone.
There are feveral Diamond-Cutters at this Mine, but none o f them have above
one Mill, which is o f Steel. They never cut but one Stone at a time upon each
Mill, calling water continually upon the M ill, to find out the grain o f the Stone ;
which being found, they pour on Oil* (not fparing for powder o f Diamonds, though
it be very dear,) to make the Stone Aide the fafter; and they lay on more
weight than we do. I have feen them lay upon one Stone an hunder’d and fifty
pound o f Lead. I muft confefs it was a great Stone, which weigh’d an hunder’d
and three Carats, after it was c u t ; and the Mill was like ours, only the t great
Wheel was turn’ d by four Negroes. The Indians are not o f the fame opinion that
w e are ; for they do not believe that the weight gives any lufter to the Stones.
I f theirs be not fubjeft to take their lufter, ’tis becaufe there is always a Boy that
hands with a thin woodden-fiice in his hand, and waters the Wheel continually
■ with Oil and Powder o f Diamonds. Befides, their Wheel does not go fo faft as
ours, becaufe the Woodden-wheel that turns the Steel-wheel, is not above three
foot in Diameter.
They cannot give that lively polifnmenr to Stones, as w e give to ours in Europe 5
and I believe the reafon to be, becaufe their Wheel does not run fo flat as ours.
For in regard it is o f Steel, to rub it upon the Erheril, as muft be done every
four and twenty hours, the Tree mnft be taken off; which can never be put on
again
 again fo as to pun io flat as it did. Had they the invention o f Iron-mills,, upon
which they never ufe Emeril, but only the File, becaufe there is no neceffity to
take olf the Tree to file the Mill, they might polilh their Stones better than they
do. I have told you they mult either rub the Mill with Emeril, or file it every
four and twenty hours. For when the Stone has run for fome time, that part o f
the Mill becomes as fmooth and bright as glafs : fo that i f you do not rough it
again either w ith Emeril or the File, the powder will not flay ; whereas if the
powder flay, there is more work done in an hour than otherwife in two.
Though a Diamond be naturally very hard, having a kind o f a knot, as you fee
in wood, the Indian Lapidaries will cut the Stone, which our European Lapidaries
find great difficulty to do,and ufually will not undertake to perform 3 which makes
the Indians require fomething more for the fafhion.
As for the Government o f the Mines, they trade very freely, and very faith­
fully. They pay two per cent, to the King for all that they b u y : befides that, he
has alfo a duty from the Merchants for leave to dig. The Merchant after he has
made fearch with the Miners, who know all the places where the Diamonds grow;
choofes out a place about two-hunder’d paces in compafs, where they fet at work
fometimes fifty , fometimes an hunder’d Miners, as they are in haft o f work. And
from the day that they begin to work, to the day that they end, the Merchants
pay to the King two Pagods a-day ■, and four when they employ an hunder’d
men.
Thefe poor people never get above three Pagods all the year long, though they
underftand their bufinefs extrem ely w e ll; fo that their wages being fo final!, they
make no fcruple, when they can handfomety, to hide a Stone for their own pro­
fit : and in regard they are quite naked, only for a rag about their privities, fome­
times they are fo dextrous as to fwallow the Stone. The chief o f the Merchants
w ho employ thefe Miners Ihew’ d me one o f them, that had cozen’d him o f a
Stone, and had put it into the corner o f his eye, but he took it from the fellow
fo foon as he had difcover’d the cheat. To prevent this cozenage, there are twelve
or fifteen in fifty, who are engag’d to the Merchant, that he fhall have no injury
done him, nor any thefts committed. I f by accident they meet with a Stone
that weighs 1 4 or 16 Carats, they prefently carry it to the Matter o f the w ork,
who gives him in recompence the Sarpo, which is a piece o f Calicut to make
him a Bonnet, to the value o f i y Sous, together with half a Pagod in Silver, or
d ie a whole Pagod, when he gives him neither Rice nor Sugar.
The Merchants that come to trade at the Mines keep their Lodgings; and every
morning about ten or eleven a clock, after they have din’d, the Matters o f the
Miners bring their Diamonds to fhew them. I f the Stones are large, or that there
be fo many as amount from two-thoufand to fixteen-thoufand Crowns, they will
leave them with the ftrange Merchant feven or eight days, for the Merchants to
confider. When the Merchant has feen the Stones, it becomes him to agree upon
the price in a fhort time. Otherwife the party that owes the Stones, takes them
away again, and you fhall never fee the fame Stones again, unlefs mix’d with
others. When the bargain is concluded, the Purchafer gives a Bill o f Exchange
upon the Banker. I f you have agreed to pay him in four days, and make him ftay
longer, you muft pay him down one and an half in the hunder’d for a months in-
tereft. Moft commonly when they know the Merchant to be fufficient, they
w ill choofe to take a Bill o f Exchange for -Agra3 for Golconda, or Eifapour, but
m ore efpecially for Surat, as being the moft frequented Port in all India, where
th ey may furnifh themfelves with all Commodities which they want.
’T is very pleafant to fee the young children o f the Merchants and other people
o f the Countrey, from the age o f ten to fifteen or fixteen years, who feat- them­
felves upon a Tree that lies in the void place o f the Town : E very one oi them
has his Diamond-weights in a little Bag hanging at one fide, on the other his Purie
with five or fix-hunder’d Pagods in Gold in it. There they fit expe-ung when
any perfon will come to fell them fome Diamonds. I f any perfori brings them a
Stone they put it into the hands o f the eldeft Boy among them, who is as it were
their c h ie f; who looks upon it, and after that gives it to him that is next h im ;
by which means it goes from hand to hand, till it return to him agaip, none o f the
reft fpeaking one word. After that he demands the price, to buy it i f poifibk 5.;
___________ 1 ■ ■ ------:----- ^ ' ...... "" .................. 1
T r a v e l s VI I n d ia . Part. I I

but if he buy it too dear, ’ tis upon his own account. In the evening the children
compute what they have laid out, then they look upon their Stones, and feparate
them according to their water, their weight, and clearnels. Then they bring them
to the great Merchants, who have generally great parcels to m atch: and the pro­
fit is divided among the children equally ; only the chief among them has a fourth
in the bunder’ d more than the reft. As young as they are, they fo well underhand
the price o f Stones, that i f one o f them have bought any purchafe, and is willing
to lofe one half in the hunder’d, the other fhall give him his Money. They fhall
hardly bring you a parcel o f Stones, above a dozen, wherein there is not fome
flaw or other defed.
When I came to the Mine, I went to wait upon the Governour, who told me
I was welcome ; and becaufe he made no queftion but that I had brought Gold
with me, (Tor they talk o f nothing under Gold at the Mines,) he bid me only lay
it in my Chamber, and he would undertake it fhould be fafe. Thereupon he pre-
fented me with four fervants to watch my Gold day and night, and to follow my
orders, bidding me withal fear nothing, but eat, drink, and bleep, and take care o f
m y health ; but withal he told me I muft be careful o f not cheating the King.
Thereupon I fell to buying, and found profit enough, above twenty in the hunder’d
cheaper than at Golconda.
I have one thing to oblerve which is more than ordinarily curious,^ concerning
the manner how the Indians, as well Mahometans as Idolaters,' drive th eir bar­
gains. Every thing is done with great fiience, and without any talking on either
fide. The buyer and the leller fit one before another like two Taylors, and the
one o f the two opening his Girdle, the feller takes the right-hand o f the purcha­
fer, and covers his own hand and that with his Girdle : under which, in the pre­
fence o f many Merchants that meet together in the fame Hall, the bargain is fe-
eretly driven without the knowledg o f any perfon. For then the purchafer nor
feller Ipeak neither with their mouths nor eyes, but only with the hand, as thus.
When the feller takes the purchafer by the whole hand, that fignifies a thouland,
and as often as he fqueezes it, he means fo many- thouland Pagods or Roupies, ac­
cording to the Money in queftion. I f he takes but half to the knuckle o f the
middle-finger, that’ s as much as to fay fifty : The final] end o f the finger fo the
firft knuckle fignifies ten. When he grafps five fingers, it fignifies five-hunder’d j
i f but one finger, one-hunder’d. This is the myftery which the Indians ufe in •
driving their bargains. And many times it happens, that in the fame place, where
there are feveral people, one and the lame parcel fhall be fold feven or eight times
over, and no perfon know that it was fold in that manner every time.
As for the weight o f the Stones, no perfon can be deceiv’ d in them, unlels he
purchafe them in hugger-mugger. For if they are publickly bought, there is a
perfon on purpofe paid by the King, without any benefit from particular perlons,
whole place it is to weigh the Diamonds ; and when he has fpoken the weight*
the buyer and feller are latisfi’d in his words, as not being a perfon any w ay ob­
lig’d to favour any perfon. . • . . "
Having dilpatch’ d all my bufinefs at the Mine, the Governour appointed me fi?i
Horfe-men to conyoy me through the Territories under his Government, w h ich
extends to a R iver that feparates the Kingdom o f Fifapoar from that o f Golconda.
’Tis a very difficult thing to crols that R iver, it being deep, broad and rapid j be-
fides that, there are no Boats. But they ferry over Men, Carriages, Oxen and
Coaches upon a round Vefiel, ten or twelve foot in Diam eter, made' o f Ofier-
tw igs, like our Flaskets, and cover’d without with-Ox-fiides ; as I have already
related. They might eafily ufe Boats, or make a Bridg ; but the King o f Gol­
conda will not fuffer either, becaufe the R iver parts the tw o Kingdoms. Everv
evening the Ferry-men on both fides are bound to carry to t w o G overnours on
each fide the R iver, an exaft account o f the Perfons, Carriages and Merchandizes
which they ferri’d over that day.
Coming to Golconda, I found that the perlbn whom I had left in truft with m y
Chamber, was dead : but that which I obferv’ d moft remarkable, was, that I found
the door fealed with two Seals, one being the CadHs or chief Juftice’s, the other
the Sha-Bander-s, or Provoft o f the Merchants. An Officer o f Juftice, together
with file Servants I had left behind, watch’d the Chamber night and day. This
Officer
 Officer hearing o f m y arrival, went and gave notice to the C adi and Sha-Bunder.,
who fent for me. The C adi prefently ask’d m e, i f the Money I had left in the
Chamber where the perfon d y’d w ere mine, and how I could prove it. I told
him I had no better proofs than the Letters o f Exchange which I had brought
to the Banker that paid it by m y order to the perfon deceas’d 5 to whom I
had alfo giv’ n farther order, that i f the Banker paid me in Silver, he fhould
change the fum into Gold. Thereupon the Bankers w ere fent for, who affirm­
ing the payments accordingly, the C adi fent his D eputy to op’n the Chamber
1 door j nor would he leave me, till I had counted over my Money, and had
allur’d him it was right. After that I return’ d to the C adi and the Sba-B ander ,
and fignifi’ d as much to them ; and having paid them fome Fees which they
demanded, to the value o f four Crowns and a half o f our M oney, I return’d
them m y thanks for their care. This I relate to fhew the juftice o f the Country,

CHAP. XII.
The Authors Journey to the other Mines ; and how they find the
Diamonds there.

Even days journey from Golconda Eaftward there is another Diamond Mine,
S call’d in the language o f the Country Gam , in the Fcrfian tongue Contour,
It is near a great Town, by which the fame R iver runs, which I crofs’d coming
from the other Mine ; and a League and a half from the Town is a high Moun­
tain in the form o f a Half-Moon ; the fpace between the Town and the Moun­
tain is a Plain where they dig and find Diamonds. The nearer they dig to the
Mountain, the larger Stones they find 5 but at the top they find nothing at
all.
It is not above a hundred years fince this Mine was found out by a Country­
m an, w ho Jiggin g in a piece o f ground to fow M illet, found therein a
pointed Stone that weigh’d above twenty-five Carats ; he not knowing what
the Stone w as, but feeing it glitter, carry’d it to Golconda, where as it happen’d
w ell for him, he met with one that traded in Diamonds. The Merchant in­
forming him felf o f the place where the Stone was found, admir’d to fee a Jew el
o f that bignefs, not having feen any one before that weigh’d above ten or tw elve
Carats. H owever his report made a great noife in the Country ; infomuch that
the M ony’d men in the Town fet themfelves to work, and caufing the ground
to be fearch’d, they found, and ftill do find bigger Stones, and in greater quan­
tity than in any other Mine. For they found a great number o f Stones from
ten to forty Carats, and fometimes bigger ; among the reft that large Stone
that weigh’d nine hundred Carats, which M irgim ola prefented to A ureng-yeb.
But though this Mine o f Coulour be fo confiderable for the quantity o f great
Stones which are there found, ye t the mifehief is the Stones are not clean j
the,W aters having fomething o f the quality o f the Earth where they a *
I f the Ground be merfhy, the W ater enclinesto black; if it be re , * '-
redneft in the Water ; in other places the Stones appear fomewhatgreemlh n
others yellowifh ; fuch a diverfity o f Soils there is between the o
Mountain. Upon the moft part o f thefe Stones after they are cut, there appears
a kind o f greafie moifture, which mutt be as often wip d on. „
A s for the Water o f the Stones, it is remarkable, that whereas in Europe
w e m ake ufe o f day-light to examine the rough Stones, an^ M / ud| ot t^
W ater and the fpecks that are found therein, the Indians do all that in t ie
night-time fetting up a Lamp with a large Wiek, in a hole which they make
in&the Wall, about a foot fquare; by the light w h ereof they ;udg o, the Wa­
ter and clearnefs o f the Stone, which they hold between their Fingers. i he
Water which they call celeftial is the worft o f all, and it is impoffibie to dilcer
k ST on g as the Stone is rough. The moft i n f a l l i b l e ^ to find out that Wa-
ter, is to carry the Stone under a Tree thick o f Boughs, for by the verdure
o f that fhade you may eafily difcern whether the Water be bJewifh or no.
The firft time I was at the Mine, there were above fixty thoufafid perfons
at work, men, w om en, and children 5 the men being employ’d to d ig , the
tvomen, and children to carry the Earth.
After the Miners have pitch’d upon the place where they intend to w ork,
they level another place c!ofe by, o f the lame extent, or elfe a little bigger,
which they enclofe with a Wall about two foot high. In the bottom o f that
little Wall, at the diftance o f every two foot, they make Email holes to let in the
w a te r ; which they ftop up afterwards,till they come to drain out the water again.
The place being thus prepar’d, the people that are to work meet all together,
men, women, and children, with the Workmafter in the Company o f his Friends
and Relations. Then he brings along with him fome little Image o f the G od
that they a d o re ; which being plac'd upright upon the ground, they all pro-
ftrate themfelves three times before it, while their Prieft lays a certain prayer.
Th'e prayer being ended, he marks the forehead o f every one w ith a kind o f
G lue, made o f Saffron and Gum, to fuch a compals as w ill hold (even or eight
Grains o f Rice, which he flicks ppon i t ; then having walh’ d their bodies with
water, which every one brings in his pot, they rank themfelves in order to eat
what the Workmafter prefents them, before they go to work, to encourage
them both to labour and be faithful. This Feaft confifts o f nothing elfe but every
one his Plate o f Rice, diftributed by the Bramin; for an Idolater may eat any
thing from the hands o f one o f their Priefts. The Plates are made o f the Leaves
o f a Certain Tree, not much unlike our Walnut-tree Leaves. Befides this, eve­
r y one has a quarter o f a pound o f Butter, melted in a fmall Copper pot with
Tome Sugar.
When their Feaft is over, the men fall to digging, the women and children
to carry Earth to the place prepar’d in that manner as I have already defcrib'd.
T hey dig ten, tw elve, and fometimes fourteen foot deep ; but when they come
to any water they leave off. AH the Earth being carry’d into the place before-
metition’d , the men, women, and children with Pitchers throw the water which
is in the drains upon the Earth,letting it leak for two or three days,according to the
hardnefs o f it, till it come to be a kind o f Batter ; then they open the holes ia
the Wall to let out the water, and throw on more water ftill, till all the mud
be wafh’d away, and nothing left but the Sand. After that they dry it in the
S u n ; and then they winnow the Sand in little Winnows, as w e winnow our
Corn. The fmall duft flies away, the great remains, which they pour out a- -
gain upon the ground.
The Earth being thus winnow’d, they Ipread it with a kind o f R ake, as thin
as they poflibly can ; then with a wooden Inftrument, like a Paviers Ram m er,
about h alf a foot wide at the bottom, they pound the Earth from one end to
the other, two or three times over. After that they winnow it again then ; and
^reading it at one end o f the Van, for fear o f lofing any o f they Earth, the look
for the Diamond.
Formerly they were wont to pound the Earth with great Flint-ftones, inftead
o f wooden R am m ers; which made great flaws in the Diamonds, and is there­
fore now left off.
Heretofore they made no fcruple to buy thofe Diamonds that had a green
outfide; for being cut, they prov’d v ery white, and o f an excellent water.
Since they have been more nice 5 for there was a Mine difcover’ d between
Coulwr and Raolconda, which the King caus’d to be Ihut up again, b y re a fo n o f
fome cheats that were us’d there ; for they found therein that fort o f Stones
which had this green outfide, fair and tranfparent, and which appear’d more
fair than the others 3 but when they came to the M ill they crumbl’d to pieces*

CHAP.
 CHAP, XIII,
V-'
A Continuation of the Authors Travels to the ^Diamond Mines.

I com e to the third Mine, which is the moft ancient o f all, in the Kingdom
o f Bengala. You may give it the name o f Soumelpour, which is the name o f
the Town next to the place Where the Diamonds are found 3 or rather Gouel
which is the name o f the R iver in the Sand w hereof they feek for the Stones!
The Territories through which this R iver runs, belong to a Raja, w ho was*
anciently tributary to the G reat Mogul, but revolted in the time o f the Wars
between Sha-jehan and Gehan-guir his Father. So foon as Sha-jehan came to
the Em pire, he fent to demand his Tribute o f this Raja, as well for the time
palt, as to come 3 who finding that his Retenues w ere not fufficient to pay him,
quitted his Country, and retir’d into the Mountains with his Subjects. Upon
his refufal, Sha-jehan believing he would ftand it out, fent a great Army againft
h im , perfwading him felf that he fliould find great ftore o f Diamonds in his
Country. But he found neither Diamonds, nor People, nor Viftuals, the Raja
having burnt all the Corn which his Subjects could not carry aw ay ; fo that
the greateft part o f Sha-jehans Arm y perilled for hunger. A t length the Raja
return’d into his Country, upon condition to pay the Mogul Pome, flight
Tribute,

The Way from Agra to this Mine.

From Agra to Halahas, coftes ijo

F ro m Halabas to Banarous, coftes 3$
F ro m Banarous to S afaron, coftes
F ro m Agra to Saferon you travel Eaftward 5 but from Saferon to the Mine
yo u m u ft wind to the South, coming firft to a great;T o w n , coftes it
This Town belongs to the Raja I have fpoke of. From thence you go to
a Fortrefs call’d Rodas, coftes 4
This is one o f the itrongeft places in all Afia, feated upon a Mountain^ for-
tifi’ d w ith fix Baftions, and twenty-feven pieces o f Cannon, with three Moats
full o f W ater, wherein there are good Fifh. There is but one w ay to com e
to the top o f the Mountain, where there is a Plain h alf a League in compafs,
wherein they fow Corn and Rice. There is above twenty Springs that water
that Plain 3 but all the reft o f that Mountain from top to bottom is nothing
but a fteep Precipice cover’d With over-grown Woods. The Raja’s form erly
us’d to live in this F ort with a Garrifon o f feven or eight hundred men. But
the G reat Mogul has it n o w ; having taken that Fort b y the policy o f the fa­
mous Mirgimola, which all the Kings o f India could never take before. The
Raja left three Sons, who betray’d one another 5 the eldeft was poifon’d, the
fecond went and ferv’d the G reat Mogul, who gave him the command o f four
thoufand Horfe 5 the third poflefles his Fathers Territories, paying the Mogul
a (mail Tribute.
From the Fortrefs o f Rodas to Soumelpour, coftes 3°
Soumelpour is a great Town, the Houfes w hereof are built o f Earth, and co­
v er’ d only with Branches o f Coco-trees. All thefe thirty Leagues you travel
through Woods, which is a very dangerouspaflage, as being very much pefter’d
With Robbers. The Raja lives h alf a League from the Town, in Tents fet upon
a fair rifing ground,- at the foot w hereof runs the Gouel, defending from the
Southern Mountains, and falling into Ganges.
In this R iv e r they find the Diamonds. For after the great Rains are over,
which is ufually in December, they ftay all January till the River be clear j by
reafon that by that time in fome places it is not above two foot deep, and
in feveral places the Sand lies above the w ater. About the end of januarf,
or the beginning o f February, there flock together out of the great Town,
* T 2 dnd
and forae others adjoining, above eight thoufand perfons, men, women and
children, that are able to work. They that are skilful know by <the fand whe­
ther there be any Diamonds or no, when they find among the fand little
Stones like to thofe which we call Thunder-Stones. They begin to make fearch
in the R iver from the Town o f Sotmelpour to the very Mountains from whence
the R iver falls, for fifty Leagues together.
Where they believe there are Diamonds, they entompafs the place w ith
Stakes, Faggots, and Earth, as when they go about to make the Arch o f i
Bride to drain all the water out o f that place. Then they dig out all the
Sand for two foot deep, which is all carried and fpread upon a great place <
for that purpofe prepar’d upon the fide o f the R i v e r ; encompafs'd with a
little Wall about a foot and half high. When they have fill’d this place with
as much Sand as they think convenient, they throw w ater upon i t , waft,
it, and lift i t ; doing in other things as they do at the Mines which I have
already defer ib’d.
From this R iver come all thofe fair Points which are call’d natural Points,
but a great Stone is-feldom found here. The reafon w hy none o f thefe Stpnes
have been feen in Europe, is becaufe o f the Wars, that have hinder’d the people
from working.
Befides the Diamond Mine which I have fpoken o f in the Province o f
Carnatica, which MirgimoU caus’d to be ftu t up, by reafon o f the yellownefs
Of the Diamonds, and the foulnefs o f the Stones ; there is in the Ifland o f Bor- .
neo. the largeft Ifland in the W orld, another R iver call’d Spccadan, in the
Sand w hereof they find Diamonds as hard as any in the other Mines. T he
principal reafon that diffwaded me from going to the Ifiand o f Borneo was,
becaufe I underftood that the Queen o f the Ifland would not perm it any
Strangers to carry away any o f thofe Diamonds out o f the Ifland. Thofe few
that are exported, being carry’ d out by health, and privately fold at Batavia
I fay the Queen, and not the King, becaufe in that Ifland the Women have
the Soveraign Command, and not the Men. For the people are fo curious to
have a lawful Heir upon the T hrone, that the Husband not being certain
that the Children which he has by his Wife are his o w n ; but the Wife being
always certain that the Children which fte bears are hers, they rather choofe
to be govern’ d by a Woman, to whom they give the Title o f Q ueen; her
Husband being only her Subject, and having no power but what ft e permits
him.

C H A R X 1Y .

O f the diverfity of Weights us d at the ^Diamond Mines. O f the

‘Pieces of Gold and Silver there Currant; and the Rule which
they observe to know the Price of ‘Diamonds.

A T the Mine o f Raolconda they weigh by Mangelins, a Mangelin being

one Carat and three quarters, that is feven Grains.
A t the Mine o f Gani or Contour they ufe the lame W eights. c
A t the Mine o f Soumelpour in Bengala, they w eigh by R ati’s, and the Rati
is feven eighths o f a Carat, or three Grains and a half. They ufe the lame
Weights over all the Empire o f the Mogul.
In the Kingdoms o f Golconda and Vifapour, they make, ufe o f Mangelins;
but a Mangelin in thofe parts is not above one Carat and three eighths.' The
Portugals in Goa make ufe o f the fame Weights in Goa; but a Mangelin there
is not above five Grains.
As for the M oney in ufe: Firft, in Bengala, in the Territories o f the Raja
before mentioned, in regard they lye enclos’d within the Dominions o f the
Great Mogul, th ey make their payments in Roupies.
At
 A t the two Mines about Raolconda in the Kingdom o f Vifapour, the payments
are made in new Pagods, which the King coins in his own Name, as being inde­
pendent from the G reat M ogul. The new Pagod is not always at the lame value •
for it is fometimes worth three Roupies and a half, fometimes more, and fome-
times lefs ; being advanc’d and brought down according to the courle o f Trade
and the correfpondence o f the Bankers with the Princes and Governors.
, A t the Mine o f Colour or G ani, which' belongs to the Kingdom o f Golconda
they make their payments in new Pagods, which are equal in value to the King o f
V ifa p o u r s. But fometimes you are forc’d to give four in the hunder’d more, by
reafon they are better Gold, and befides, they will take no others at the Mine.
Thele Pagods are coin’d by the E n glijh and H ollanders , who, w hether willingly or
b y force, are priviledg’d by the King to coin them in their Forts : And thofe o f
the Hollanders coft one or two per cent, more than the Englifk , by realon they are
better Gold, and for that the Miners choofe them before the other. But in re­
gard the Merchants are prepoflefs’ d that the Miners are a rude and lavage fort o f
people, and that the ways are dangerous, they ftay at Golconda, where the W ork-
mafters keep correlpondence with them, and fend them their Jewels. There they
pay in old Pagods coin’d many ages ago by feveral Princes that Reign’d in In dia
before the M ahom etans got footing therein. Thole old Pagods are worth four
Roupies and a half, that is , to lay, a Roupy more than the new : not that there is
any more Gold in them, or that they weigh any more. Only the Bankers, to ob­
lige the King, not to bring down the price, pay him annually a very great Sum, by
realon they get very much by if. ~ For the Merchants receive none o f thofe Pa­
gods without a Changer to examin them, fome being all defac’d, others low-m etal,
others wanting w e ig h t: fo that i f one o f theft Bankers were not prefent at the
receipt, the Merchant would be a greater lofer, fometimes one, fometimes five,
fometimes fix i’th hunder’d : for which they alfo pay them one quarter in the
hunder’d for their pains. When the Miners are paid, they alfo receive their M o­
ney in the prefence o f Bankers, who tells them which is good, and which
is b a d ; and has for that alfo one quarter i’th hunder’d. In the payment o f
'a thoufand or two-thoufand Pagods, the Banker, for his fee, puts them into a bag,
and ftals it with his Seal 5 and when the Merchant pays for his Diamonds, he
brings the Seller to the Banker, who finding his bag entire, affures the party that
all is&right and good within ; and fo there is no more trouble.
As for the Roupies, they take indifferently, as well the Great Mogul’s as the
K in g o f Golc0-add’s : by reafon that thofe which that King coins, are to be coin’d,
by Articles, with the Great M ogul’ s ftamp.
’Tis an idle thing to believe that vulgar error, that it is enough to carry Spices,
Tobacco, Looking-glalfes, and fuch trifles to truck for Diamonds at the In d im -
M in e s: For I can affure ye , theft people will not only have Gold, but Gold o f the

^ ^ f f o V t h e roads to the Mines, fome fabulous modern relations have render’d

them very dangerous, and fill’d them full o f Lions, Tigers, and cruel People} but
I found them not only free from thofe wild creatures, but alfo the People very
loving and courteousr . , ,. e n ,L„ rji .
From Golconda to Raolconda, which is the principal Mine, the road is as fo llo w s .
the road being meafur’ d by Gos, which is four French-leagues.
From, Golconda to Canapour, one Gos.
From Canapour to- Parquet, tw o G os and a h a lf .
From Parquet to Cakenol, one Gos.
From Cakpnol to Canol-Candanor, three Gos.
From Canol-Candanor to Setapour, one Gos,
F ro m Sterapour to the R iver, tw o Gos.
That Raver is the bound between the Kingdoms o f Golconda and Vpapour.
F ro m the River to A lpou r, three quarters o f a Gos.
From A Ip our to Canal, three quarters o f a Gos.
From C ^ l to Raolconda, tw oG osan d a half. .
Thus from Golconda to the Mine,they reckon it feventeen Gos,or 68Frm ^-Leagues.
From Golconda.to the Mine o f Coukur or Gani, is reckon d thirteen Gos and
three quarters, or y y P W ^ -leag u es, _ From
 fro m Golconda to u4lm afpinda, three Gos and a half*
From jilm a fp in d a to K a p er} two Gos. ®
From K a p er to Montecour, two Gos and a h a lf
From Montecottr to N aglepar , two Gos.
Fro m N a g lep a r to Eligada , one Gos and a half.
Fro m E lig a da to Sarvaron 3 one G o s. ^
Fro m Sarvaron to M ellaferon, one G o s. i
Fro m M ellaferon to Ponocour, tw o G o s and a quarter.
A t Ponocour you only croft the R iv e r to Coulm n

C H A P . XV.
The Rule to know the juff -price and value of a ^Diamond of what
weight foever, from three to a bunder d, and upwards : a fecret
known to very few people in Europe.

M ake no mention o f Diam onds o f three Carats, the price thereof being fu f-
I ficiently known.
F irft then, as to others above that w eight, you m ull know how m uch the D ia ­
mond weighs, and lee if it be p e rfe ft; if it be a th ick Stone, w e ll-lq u ar’d, and
have all its corners, i f the water be w hite and liv e ly , w ithout fpecks and flaw s;
I f it be a Stone cut in Facets, w hich we call a R o fe-D iam ond, you m u ll take no­
tice w hether the form be round or oval, whether it be o f a fair breadth, and not
o f Stones clapt together 5 whether it be o f a good w ater, and w ithout lpecks or
flaw s.
Such a Stone w eighing one C arat, is w orth iy o L iv re s or m ore. N ow to know
how much a Stone o f the lam e perfection, w eighing 1 2 C arats, is w orth.
M u ltip ly 1 2 b y 1 2 , it makes 14 4 . Then m u ltip ly xqq by iy o , w hich is the
price o f a Stone o f one C arat, it comes to 216 0 0 L ivre s.

*
As for Exam ple. ;

12 . • 1
XZ i

144 :
....... 15 0 - 1
(M M M N M M M M W jiM aini ■ ■ 1 1 || 1 ................. ... ■ ! J \ ^ _

7 2 0 0
__________ 1 4 4 :* ' \
2x600 times.

To know the p rice o f im perfedt D iam onds, you muft obferve the lam e rule,
grounded upon the price o f a Stone o f one Carat.
Y o u have a Diam ond o f fifteen C arats Ihewn ye, neither o f a good w ater, nor
good form , and full o f lpecks and flaw s beftdes: fuch a D iam ond cannot be worth
above 60, or 80, or 10 0 L iv re s at m oft, according to the goodnefs o f the Stone.
M u ltip ly therefore the w eight o f the Diam ond o f iy C arats b y i y : tfeen m u lti-
p iy the produdt, Which is I2 y ,b y the value o f the Stone o f one C arat, w hich we
w ill grant to be 80 L iv re s, the product w hereof is 10 0 0 0 L iv re s , the price o f a
D iam ond o f x y Carats,
■ i ‘ A, * -

th e
 The Example,

1 5 _______ : :

/ * 7y
i r w ' *• ..
12
,8 0
s
10000 livres.

B y that it is ealy to difcover the difference between a perfect and an imperfed

Stone. For i f that Stone o f i y Carats were perfed, the fecond multiplication
Jhould be wrought by i y o , which is the price o f a perfed Stone o f one C a ra t:
and then the Diamond would come not to io o o o Livres, but to 337yo Livres,
that is 2 37 50 Livres more than an im perfed Diamond o f the lame weight.
B y this rule oblerve the price o f two the greateft Diamonds o f the World for
Cutrftones, the one in Afia, belonging to the Great Mogulj the other in Europe,
in the polfeflion o f the Duke o f Tufcany.
The Great Mogul’s Diamond weighs 279 and 9 1 6th Carats. It is o f a perfed
good w ater, o f a good lhape, with only a little flaw in the edg o f the cutting be­
low , which goes round about the Stone. Without that flaw, the firft Carat were
w orth 16 0 Livres, but for that reafon I reckon it not at above 1 y o ; and fo by the
rule it comes to 1 1 7 2 3 2 7 8 Livres, 1 4 Sous^ and 3 Liards. Did the Diamond
w eigh no more than 279 Carats, it would not be worth above 116 7 6 15 :0 Livres,
fo that the nine 1 6ths comes to 4 7 12 8 Livres, 1 4 Sous, and 3 Liards.
T he G reat Duke o f Tufcanfs Diamond weighs 13 9 Carats, clean and well-
fhap’d, cut in facets every way : but in regard the water enclines fomewhat to­
ward the colour o f Citron, I do not value the firft Carat above 13 5 Livres 5 fo
that by the rule the Diamond ought to be worth 260833 y Livres.
A Diamond by the Miners is call’d Irit which the Turks, Perfians and Arabians
call Almas,

C H A P . XVI.
O f Colour'd Stones, and the Places where they are found.

T Here are but tw o places in all the Eaft where Colour’d-Stones are found,
within the Kingdom o f Pegu, and the Aland o f Ceylati, The firft is a Moun­
tain twelve days journey, or there-abouts,' from Siren, toward the N orth-eaft;
the name whereof is Capelan. In this Mine are found great quantities o f Rubies,
and Elpinels, or Mothers o f Rubies, yellow Topazes, blew and white Saphirs, Ja­
cinths, Amethyfts, and other Stones o f different colours. Among thefe Stones
which are hard, they find other Stones o f various colours, that are_ very fo ft,
which they call Bacan in the language o f the Gountrey, but are o f little or no
efteem. / • , ,
Siren is the name o f the City where the King o f Pegu refides; and A va is the
Fort o f his Kingdom. From A va to Siren you go by water in great flat-bottom’d-
Barks, which is a voyage o f fixty days.. There is no going by land, by reafon the
Woods are full o f Lions, Tigers, and Elephants. It is one o f the pooreft Coun­
treys in the World, where there is no Com modity but Rubies; the whole R e­
venue w h ereof amounts not to above a hunder’d-thoufand Crowns. Among
all the Stones that are there found, you fhall hardly fee one o f three ©r four Ca-S
rats
 rats that is abfolutely clean, by reafon that, the King ftriftly enjoyftsjiis Subjects
not to export them out o f his Dominions 5 befides that, he keeps to him felf all the
clean Stones that are found. So that I have got very confiderably in my Travels,
by carrying Rubies out o f Europe into A fa . Which makes me very much fufpedt
the relation o f Vincent ie Blanc, who reports that he faw in the King’s Palace ,
Rubies as big as eggs. t . - \
All Rubies are fold by weights, which are call’d Ratis ; that is, three grains and
a half, or feven 8ths o f a C arat: and the payments are made in old Pagods.
A Ruby weighing one Ratis, has been fold for Pagods 20
A Ruby o f 2 Ratis and one 8th} Pagods '
A Ruby o f 3 Ratis and one 4 th, Pagods -
A Ruby o f 4 Ratis and five 8tbs, Pagods 4 jo
A Ruby o f y Ratis, Pagods
A Ruby o f 6 Ratis and a half, Pagods 920
I f a Ruby exceed fix Ratis, and be a perfeffc Stone, there is no value to be fet
upon it. .
The N atives o f the Countrey call all Colour’d-Stones Rubies, diftinguifhing
them only by the colour. Saphirs they call Blue-Rubies, Amethyfts they call
Violet-Rubies, Topazes Yellow-Rubies ; and fo o f other Stones.
The other place where Rubies are found, is a R iver in the Ifland o f Ceylan,
‘ which defeends from certain high Mountains in the middle o f the Ifland} which
fwells very high when the rains fall 5 but when the waters are low , the people
make it their bufinefs to fearch among the Sands for Rubies, Saphirs and Topazes.
All the Stones'that are found in this R iver, are generally fairer and clearer than
thofe o f Pegu.
I forgot to tell you that there are fome Rubies, but more Balleis-Rubies, and an
abundance o f Baftard-Rubies, Saphirs and Topazes found in the Mountains that
run along from Pegu to the Kingdom o f Camboya..
Colour’d-Stones are alio found in fome parts o f Europe, as in Bohemia and Hun­
gary. In Hungary there is a Mine where they find certain Flints o f different big-
nefs, fome as big as eggs, fome as big as a man’s fift, which being broken, contain
a Ruby within a s hard and as clean as thofe o f Pegu.
In Hungary there is a Mine o f Opals, which Stone is no-where elfe to be found
in the World but there.
The Turquoife is no-where to be found but in Perfa. Where there are tw o
Mines. The one is called the Old-Rock., three days journey from Meched, toward
the North-weft, near a great Town which goes by the name o f Mlchabourg. The
other which is call’d the Nevc-Roek; is five days journey off. Thofe o f the Neve-
Rock are o f a paler blue enelining to white, and lefs efteem’d, fo that you may
have a great many for a little Money. Some years fince the King o f Perfa com­
manded that no Turquoifes fhould be digg’d out o f the Old-Rock., but only for him­
felf ; making ufe o f thofe Turquoifes inftead o f enamelling, to adorn Hilts o f
Swords, Knives and D a g g e rs; o f which the PerJians are altogether ignorant.
As for Emraulds, it is a vulgar error to fay they come originally from the Eaft.
And therefore when Jew ellers and Gold-fmiths, to prefer a deep-colour’ d Em -
rauld enelining to black, tell ye, it is an Oriental Emrauld, they fpeak that which
is not true. I confefs I could never difeover in what part o f our Continent thofe
Stones are found. But fure I am, that the Eaftern-part o f the W orld never pro­
duc’d any o f thofe Stones, neither in the Continent, nor in the Iflands. Tr‘ue it is,
that fince the difeovery o f America fome o f thofe Stones have been often brought
rough from Peru,to the Philippine-Iflands, whence they have been tranfporred in­
to Europe; but this is not enough to make them Oriental. . Befides that, at this
time they fend them into Spain through the North-Sea.

C H A P .
/
 «
C H A P . X V II.

O f Tearls, and the T laces where they Fijh for them

j . , .
I N the firft p lace, there is a Filhery for Pearls in the Ter fa n Gulf, round
about the Ifland o f Bakren. It belongs to the King o f Perfia, and there is
a ftr'ong Fort in it, Garrifon’d with three hundred men. The Water which
the people drink in that Ifland, and all along the Coaft o f P erfa , is brackifh
and ill-tafted, fo that only the Natives o f the Country can drink it. Frefh wa­
ter cofts Strangers very de a r ; for the people fetch it fometimes one League,
(ometimes tw o Leagues from the Ifland, from the bottom o f the Sea, being
let down by a R o p e , with a Bottle or two ty’ d about their waftes, which
they fill, and ftop it well ; and then giving the Rope a twitch, are hail’d up
again by their Companions.
Every one that fifhes pays to the King o f Perjia, five A baJJPs, whether he
g et any thing or no. The Merchant alfo pays the King fome fmall matter
for every thouland Oyfters.
The fecond Filhery for Pearls is right again!! Bakren upon the Coaft o f A ra ­
bia the happy, near the C ity o f Catifa , which together with all the Country
about it, is under the Jurifdi&ion o f an A ra bia n Prince. The Pearls that are
filh’d in thefe places are fold to the In d ian s , who are not fo nice as w e 5
for they give a good price for all, as well the uneven as the round ones. O ver
all A fia they chufe the yellow Water enclining to w hite; for they lay thole
Pearls that encline fomewfliat to a Gold colour, are more brisk, and never
change co lo u r; but that the white ones will change in thirty-years time^
throughthe very heat o f the weather and the fweat o f the perfon that wears them,
turning the fcandaloufly yellow.
There is a wondrous Pearl in the pofleflion o f an A rabian Prince, that took
M a fca te from the Portugals. He then call’d him felf Imenhett Prince o f M a f-
cdte ■, being known before only by the name o f Acepb Ben-A H Prince o f N o -
rennae. It is but a fmall Province, but it is the belt o f all in the Happy A ra ­
bia. " Therein grow all things neceffary for the life o f man; particularly, de­
licate fruits, but more efpecially molt excellent G rap es, which would make
moft incomparable Wine. This Prince has the molt wonderful Pearl in the
world not fo much for its bignefs, for it weighs not above twelve Carats and
one fifteenth, nor for its perfeft roundnels, but becaufe it is fo clear and lo
tranfnarent that you may almoft fee through it. The Great M ogul offer’d him
bv a Banian forty thoufand Crowns for his Pearl, but he would not accept
it By which you fee, that it is more profitable to carry Jew els that are rare
out o f Europe into Afia, than to bring them out o f A fia into Europe j unlefs
it be to lapan or C hina, where Jew els are little efteem’d.
There is another Filhery for Pearls in the Sea that beats againft the Walls
o f a oreat Town call’d M a n a r, in the Ifland o f Ceylan. For their roundnefs and
their Water, they are the faireft that are found in any other F ilh ery; but they
rarely weigh above three or four Carats.
There are excellent Pearls,, and o f a very good water, and large, which are
found upon the Coaft o f fa p a n ; but there are few filh’d for, in regard Jew els
are o f no efteern among the N atives.
T here are other Filheries in the Weft Indies ; in the firft place all along the
Ifland o f Cubagna, three Leagues in compafs, lying ten D egrees and a half o f
N orthern Latitude, a hundred and fixty Leagues from Santo Domingo. The Pearls
are fmall, feldom weighing above five Carats. , Tn a r d 1
The fecond Filhery is in the Ifland o f M unguenta , or the Ifland o f Pearls,
a League from Cubagna, but much bigger, f h is Filhery is not the moft plen­
tie s hut it is the moft efteem’d o f all thofe in the Weft Indies, by reafon the,
P e a r lA r e o f moft excellent water, and very large. I fold one Pear-falhion’d
tiT s L -E fi-IC a n , the threat Moguls Uncle, that weighed fifty-five Carats.
 The third Fifhery is at Camogete, near the Continent.
The fourth at Rio de la Hacha, ail along the fame Coaft. .®
The fifth and 1aft, at St. Martha’s, fixty Leagues from Rio de la Hacha. A?!
thefe three Fifheries produce very weighty Pearls fiut they are generally ilb-
fhap’d, and o f a water encllning to the colour o f Lead.
As for Scotch Pearl, and thole that are found ;n the Rivers o f Bavaria, tho , (
a Neck-lace o f them' may be worth a thoufand Cr ow ns , yet they are not v
to be compar’d with the Eaftern and Weft Jnd tan Pearls.
Some years fince there was a Filhery difcqver’d in a certain place upon the
the Coaft o f Japan, and I have feen fome which the Hollanders have brought 1
thence. They are o f a very good water, and large, but v ery uneven.
Take this obfervation along with you, touching th e difference o f their wa­
ters j fome being very white, others inclining to yellow , erthers to black, others
to a leaden colour. As for the laft, there are no fuclybut only in America,
which proceeds from the nature o f the Earth at the bottom o f the Water,
which is generally more ouzy than in the Eaft. I once met with fix Pearls in
the return o f a Cargo from the Weft Indies that w ere perfe&ly round, but
black like jet, which weigh’d one with another twelve Carats. I carried them
into the Eaft Indies to put them off, but could meet with no Chapman to
buy them. As for thofe that incline to yellow, it proceeds from hence, that
the Fifhermen felling the Oyfters to the Merchants in heaps, while they,ftay
fourteen or fifteen days till the Oyfters lofe their water, the Oyfters waft and be-
gin to fmell, for which reafon the Pearl grows yellow by infe d ion, which ap­
pears to be a truth, in regard that where the Oyfters preferve their liquor the
Pearls are white. N ow the reafon why they ftay till the Oyfters open o f them -
felves, is becaufe that if they fhould force them open, they might perhaps in­
jure and cut the Pearl. In fhort, the Eaftern people are much o f our humour
in matter o f whiten eft, for they love the whiteft Pearls and the blackeft Dia­
monds j the whiteft bread, and the faireft women.

...■>■ ai,- , , ________ ___i— ___ ; ——___ _____ _____------ — A.

CHAP. XVIII. N - V

How the FearIs are bred in the Oyjlers; how they FjJIj for them,
and at what tune.

S Ome ancient Writers have vulgarly reported, that Pearls are produc’ d by
the D ew o f Heaven, and that there is but one in an Oyft er; but experience
teaches the contrary. For the O yfter never ftirs from the bottom o f the Sea,,
where the D ew can never come, which is many times twelve fathoms deep 5
befides, that it is as often obferv’d, that there are fix or feven -Pearls in one
Oyfter; and I have had in my hands an Oyfter, wherein there were above ten
beginning to breed. ’Tis very true, that they are not always o f the fame bignefs $
for they grow in an Oyfter after the lame manner as Eggs in the Belly o f a
Pullet. But I cannot lay there are Pearls in all, for you may open many Oyfters
and find none.
’Tis no advantage to them that fifh for Pearls; for i f the poor people could
find any other employment, they would never ftick to fuch a one as meerly keeps
them alive. But the Land is fo barren, that you may travel twenty Leagues before
you meet with one blade o f Graft $ and the people are fo miferably poor, that
they feed upon nothing, but D ates and Salt-fifh.
They fifh in the Eaftern Seas tw ice a year j the firft time in March and A pril,
the fecond time in Auguft and September; and t h e y , keep their Fairs in June
and November. However they do not fifti every year ; for they that fifh, will
know beforehand whether it will turn to account or no. N ow to the end they
may not be deceiv’d, they fend to the places where they are wont to fifh,
feven dr eight Barks, who bring back each o f them about a thoufand O yfters,
: ...... " t Which'
 w h ich th ey Open, and i f they find not in every thoufimd Oyfters to the va/ce
o f five Fano’ s o f Pearl, which amounts to h alf a Crown o f our Money, ’tis a
fign that the Fifhing will not turn to account, in regard the poor people would
not be able to defray their charge. For partly for a ftock to fet out, and partly
for victuals while they are abroad, they are forc’ d to borrow Money at three
' and four in the hundred a month. So that unlefs a thoufand Oyfters yeild
them five Fano’ s o f Pearls, they do not fifh that year. As for the Merchants,
th ey muft -buy their Oyfters at hap-hazard, and be content with what they
find in them. I f they meet with great Pearls, they account themfelves happy;
w hich they feldom do at the Fifhery o f Manat, thole Pearls being fit for little
elfe but to be fold by the Ounce, to powder. Sometimes a thoufand Oyfters a-
mounts to feven Fano’s, and the whole Fifhery to a hundred thoufand Piafters.
T h e Hollanders take o f every D iver eight Piafters, in regard they alw ays attend
th e Fifhery with two or three fmall Men o f W ar, to defend them from the
jMalavares Pyrats. > ,
The more Rain falls in the year, the more profitable the Fifhery happens to
be. They fifh in tw elve fathom water, five or fix Leagues off at Sea, fome-
tim es tw o hundred and fifty Barks together, among which there is not above
‘ one or two D ivers at moft.
There is a Cord ty ’d under the Arms o f them that dive, one end w hereof is
held by them that are in the Bark. There is alfo a great ftone o f eighteen or
tw enty pound ty’d to the great Toe o f him that dives; the end o f the Rope
that fattens it being alfo held by them in the Yeffel. The D iver has befide a
Sack made like a N et, the mouth w hereof is kept open with a Hoop. Th.us
provided, he plunges into the Sea, the weight o f the ftone prefently finkifjg'
h im ; when he is at the bottom, he flips off the ftone, and the Bark puts off.
Then the D iver goes to filling his Sack, as long as he can keep his breath ;
w hich when he can do no longer, he gives the Rope a twitch, and is prefently
hail’d up again. Thofe o f Manat are better Fifhers, and ftay longer in the wa­
t e r than thofe o f Bakren and Can f a ; for they neither put Pincers upon their
N ofes, nor Cotton in their Ears, as they do in the Perfan Gulf.
A fter the D iver is draw’ n up, he ftays half a quarter o f an hour to take
breath, and then dives again ,,for ten or tw elve hours together As for the
O vfN rs themfelves, they throw ’em away, as being ill-rafted and unfavoury.
T o conclude the difeourfe o f Pearls, you are to take nonce, that in Europe
th ev fell them by the Carat weight, which is four Grains. In Ptrfia they fell
them by the Abas, and one Abas is an eighteenth lefs than our Carat. In the
Dominions o f the Mogul, the Kings o f Vifapour and Golconda weigh them by
the Ratis and one Ratis is alfo an eighteenth lefs than our Carat.
h G l was form erly the greateft place o f the world for the trade o f Jew els
and Pearls You muft know therefore, that in Goa, and in all other places which
the Ponmals had in the Indtes, they us’ d a particular weight tofel] their Pearls,
b y , which they call Chego’ s ; the proportion whereof to Carats appears m the
following Table,

>

$V a Garat?
 -' c
Carats. Chegos. Carats. Chegos.

i ---- I...... ....■—■■J 21------~---------------306

%---------- ---------- 8 2 2 — ----------------- 336
3 —---------------- — lx and a half 2 3 --------------:------- 367 & a quarter
4 - — —-— -------- 1 6 24---------- — — 400
5 -- ----------------21 ----------------- -----43°
6 ......................... 27 26----------------------- 469 & aquarter
7 — ------------- - 3 4 . 2 7 --------------------- jo6 & a quarter
8 — —— ------- 44- 28----------------------- J4 4 & aquarter
9 — -------------- 56 29 ----------------------- S H
1 0 -------- -— ------ 69 30----------------- — 62 j
I I — — — -------84 3 1 ------ — — ;— - 66/ & a quart.
1 2 ------- 100 32------ --------------- 7 1 1
1 5 ----- *>117 3 3 ---------------------- 7/4andaquart.-
1 4 ------------------- MS 34 ----- ----- — ------- - 802 and 3 quart, j
I J ------------------- I f 6 3/ ----- -—— ----------- 8jo and a quart-
« 1 6 ------------------- 177 & 3 quart. 36 --------------------- 900
1 7 ------------------- 200 & a half 37 — ------------------ 9 Jo an d ah alf
lg — ----------22j 38--------—----------- 1002 and 3 quar. ■
19.-------------------2 jo & aH alf 39--------------- :----- i o j S
20---- 277 & 3 guar. 4 0 .................. .......... 1 1 1 1 anda quar.

CHAP. XIX.
Observations upon the fair eft and largef t 'Diamonds and Rubies which
the Author has fteen in E u ro p e and A lla , reprefented according to the
Figures in the T kites; asalfto upon thofe which the Author fold to the
King upon his laid return from the Indies : with the Figure of a
large lopaz, and the fa ir eft Fear Is in the World«

Number 1,

X His Diamond belongs to the Great Mogul, being cut into the fame fo rm ; and
A it weighs 3 19 Ratis and an half, which make 279 and nine 1 6ths o f our Ca­
rats :■ when it was rough, it weigh’d 907 Ratis, which make 793 Carats.

Numb. 2,

Is the figure o f a Diamond belonging to the Great Duke o f Tuftam. It weighs

1 3 9 Carats and an half: the fault o f it is, that the water enclines fomewhat t ® a
Citron-colour.

Numb. 3.

Is a Stone that weighs 17 6 and one 8tb Mangelins, which makes 2 4 2 Carats and
five i 6ths. A Mangelin coming to one and three 8tbs o f our Carats. Peing at
Golconda I faw this Stone j and it was the biggeft that ever I faw in my life in a
Merchant’s-hands. It was valu’d at 500000 Roupies,-or 750 0 0 0 Livres o f our
M o n ey: I offer’d 400000 Roupies, but could not have it.

Numb. 4. '

Is the figure o f a Diamond which I-bought at rlmadabat: and it weigh'd 1 7 S

Ratis, or 1 5 7 Carats and a quarter.

Numb, y,
’ J /l/i/t! . 8- ^Jr'azrzlj in India,
■ m i.

. ' ; t
' /
 P iqe q Jm v e lls in India , .

3^ 6 *

Jr* *

• l ^ j ^ ^
 F a y e .ja y a ? H e p r e f n ta tio n f zp* 1/ f a n - e f t 7) i a m o nds H h o fn . o u t a m o u p a LI t h o f w h ic h T r a v e l s in In d ia
TTTonleiur T a v e r n ie r f o ld , to y K i h y at his l e f t r e tu r n s f 'o m th e I n d i e s , uporu w h ic h (In n fiile r a tio n / a n d f o r
se v e r all ^ fe rv ic e s Pone the J C in flo m e J h s .T ta je f i/ h on ored him w ith the J i t l e f TV'C tblc, .

I ’ ^^ ^
^ . The Top TheBottoine^. ^ ^ '

j/ upper T a r t . ^ y Ho Home dap. Bottome j_______ | |

y 1 hick nefi J y It amer p a rt ^ ^ j

£ t Jh lc k n f ■ f ta r Car ^ ^

to 2 C a r ^ j • i f (B o tto m e ^T o p ^ ~^
j ■ »— i - ■ ^
A . I r a D iam on d dearie o fa fa ir e T io f 1 u ft 3* ^ W y r f t a r e nrhvtirarvcl C le a v e
, p 'p r ' i X° 1^ / a n d m e re C u tt in T rtd ia .
H .C A i t ttvo o f a p a le roje Lcrlo u r r 7 ^ if |L f

I). I s one e r f an Coctrao r d iit a r t ffa ir e 1 S fe |g |r^ T h e three, he loin m a rk et? 1 . 2 . 3 .

n ra te r. || ^ 2 3 £Lre fo u d e
 * \
Numb. 5,

Is the figure o f the fore-m entioird 'D iam o nd, after it was cut on both fides *
there rem aining 94 Carats and a h a lf ; the w ater being perfeft. The fiat-fid e
•;> w here there were two flaws below , was as thin as a iheet o f brown-paper : When
the Stone was cut, I caus’d all that thin fide to be taken off, w ith one part o f the
end above, where there remains one little fpeck o f a flaw .

Numb. 6 .
■ .• • i
Is another D iam ond w hich I bought a t the M ine o f Coulour. It is fair and
clean, and weighs 3 6 M angelins, or 63 and 3 8 ths o f our Carats.

Numb. 7 and 8 .

A re two pieces o f a Stone that was cut in tw o, w hich being entire, w eigh’d 75
M angelins and a h alf, or 10 4 Carats. Though it were o f a good w ater, it feem’d
fo foul in the m iddle, that, in regard it was large, and held at a high price, there
w as ne’re a Banian w ould venture upon it. A t length an Hollander bought it,
and cutting it in tw o, found in the m iddle o f it eight Carats o f filth lik e a ro tten-
w eed. The fin all piece happen’d to be clean, excepting a little flaw hardly to be
perceiv’d, but for the other, wherein there are fo many other crofs flaw s, there
w as no w ay but to m ake feven o r eight pieces o f it. Th e Hollander ran a great
rifeo in cutting it a-fu n d er; for it was ve ry great lu ck that it had not broke into
a hunder’d pieces. Y e t for all that it did not turn to acco unt; fo that it is in vain
fo r another to buy that w hich a Banian refufes.

CHAP. XX.
The Forms of twenty Rubies which the Author f i d to the King
upon his lafl return from the Indies. The frft f a r t of the Tlate
Jhews the weight, extent, and thicknefs of every Stone.

Numb. 1 ,

the F ig u re o f a R ub y that belongs to the K in g o f Perfia. It is in ffiape

P and bignefs lik e an Egg, boar’d through in the m iddle, deep colour’d, fair
and clean, except one flaw in the fide. T h e y w ill not te ll you what it coft,
nor le t yo u know w hat it w e ig h s; only it appears b y the Regifter th at it
has been feveral years in the K in g s Treafury.

Numb. 2 .

Is the Figure o f a Balleis R u b y ; fold fo r fuch to Giafer-Kan, the G re at Mo­

guls U ncle, who paid 950000 R oupies, or 14 250 0 0 L iv re s for it. But an old In­
dian Jew eller affirm ing afterw ards, that it was no Ballets R u b y, that it was not
w o rth above 500 Roupies, and that Giafer-kan was cheated; and h is opinion being
co nfirm ’d by Sha-jeban, the moft skilfu l in Jewels o f any perfon in the Em pire,
Aureng-z.eb com pell’d the M erchant to take it again, and. to reftore the M oney
back.

N um b, 3 , and 4.

Is is the F ig u re o f R uby belonging to the K in g o f Vifapour, N um b. 4 , is

the height o f the Stone above the G o ld , And N um b. 3, is the roundnefs o f the
/ V ,, . , B e azil;
 : - ' :J ' v : , v ' ' • \ / ' V ;•

i^o Travels in I n d i a . Part II.

Beazil. It weighs fourteen Mange! ins, or feventeen Carats and a h alf; a Vifa-
■ pour Mangelin being huc five Grains, ft coft the King 14 2 0 0 new Pagods, or
74550 Livres.

Numb, 5.
, 1 ^
Is the Figure o f a Ruby that a Banian fhew’d me at Banurous; it weighs
58 Rati’s, or 50 Carats and 3 quarters; being o f the fecond rank in beauty. In
fhape it is like a Plump Almond, bor’d through at the end. I offer’d 40000
Roupies, or 60000'Livres for i t ; but the Merchant demanded 5 5000 Roupies.

Numb. 6 .

Is the Figure o f a great Topaz belonging to the G reat Mogul $ nor did I
fee him wear any other but that, all the while I was in India. This Topaz
weighs 1 8 1 R ati’s and half a quarter, or 1 5 7 Carats and three quarters. It
was bought at Goa for the Great Mogult and coft 18 10 0 0 Roupies, or 2 7 15 0 0
Livres o f our Money.

Numb. 7, 8, 9.

Are the Figures o f three leveral Rubies belonging to the King o f France

Numb. 1 .

Is the Figure o f a Pearl which the King o f Perjia bought at the Fifhery o f
Catifaln Arabia. It coft him 32000 Tomans, or 1400 0 0 0 Livres o f our Money,
at forty-fix Livres and fix Deneers to a Toman. It is the faireft and moft per­
fect Pearl that ever was yet found to this hour, having no defeat

Numb. 2.

Is the Figure o f the biggeft Pearl that ever I law in the Court o f the G reat
Mogul. It hangs about the. artificial Peacocks neck that adorns his great Throne,

Plumb. 3.

Is the Figure_ o f a Pearl that I fold to Cha- Efi - Kan; the W ater is fome-
what faint, but it is the biggeft Pearl that was ever carried out o f Europe into
uijia.

Numb. 4.

Is a great perfect Pearl, as well for-its Water as for its form, which is like
an Olive. It is in the midft o f a Chain o f Emraulds and Rubies, which the G reat
Mogul w e ars; which being put o n , the Pearl dangles at the low er part o f
his Breaft.

N u m b. 5. < .

Is a Pearl perfe&ly round, the biggeft I ever law, and belongs to the Great
Mogul, The like could never be found j for which reafbn the G reat Mug l lays
it up very charily,, and never! ufes it. For if i t ,could be match’d, both" would
make a Pair o f Pendants for the Ears, let between Rubies or Emraulds, accor­
ding to the cuftom o f the C ou n try; there being no pet son. o f any quality that
does not wear a Pearl between tw o colour’d Stones m his Ear,
* *r Li v ‘ v: , • -.

■ • • ' \ C H A P .
 I \ ' \ I

jjp - ' s
4 ■ # ' '
> > , ,
J

v k -\ ~-
V ' - '
■ ':■>

la q & .jjo . Jram itU in In d ia .

. L ^ 71^ *

\&^ 0

- ■ - ■ .

>
 J

Paac J 5 0 . tr a v e ls in In d ia .

^ o r'/ne oJ- ‘ th nee Lai ■<?

tre. lo tig vu g to h u? S^lfeue [t i e , -* /

tn a n fjt a r 'e n t q u ite t/m o u g h-.

? . .
 __________________ _________ • f
Book II. Travels in I n d i a . ___________ 15.1
)

CHAP. XXL
Of Coral, and Tellow Amber, and the places where it is found,
L
j ' ' -1 ' , , , ;

C Oral, but little valu’ d in Europe, is highly efteem’d in all the three other parts
o f the World, and there are three places where they fifh for it upon theCoaft
o f Sardigna. That o f Argtterrel is the faireft o f all. The fecond place is call’d
Bosoa; and the third is neer the Ifland o f St. Peter. There are tw o other places
upon the Coaft o f France, the one neer the Baftion o f France; the other at Ta-~
barque. There is alfo another Filhery upon the Coaft o f Sicily, neer Trepano, but
the Coral is final], and ill-colour’d. There is another upon the Coaft o f Catalogna,
neer Cape de R u lers; where the Coral is large, and o f an excellent colour, but
th e branches are fhort. There is a ninth- Fifhery in the Ifland o f Majorque, much
like that neer the Ifland o f Corjica. And thefe are all the places in the Mediter­
ranean-Sea, where they fifh for C o ra l; for there is none at all in the Ocean.
, r Becaufe that Coral grow s under the hollow Rocks where the Sea is deep, the
Fifhers fix two fpars o f wood a-crofs, fattening a great piece o f Lead in the mid­
dle to make it fink : after that they wind carelefly about the fpar good itore o f
tufted Hemp, and fallen the wood to two Cords, one end w hereof hangs at the
Poop, the other at the Prow o f theVeffel. Then letting go the wood with the
ftream or current by the Tides o f the R ock, the Hemp twifts it felf among the
Coral, fo thafelometimes they Hand in need o f five or fix Boats to pull up the
wood again: artdfeif one o f the Cables fhould chance to break with the ftrefs, all
the Row ers are in danger to be loft. While they tear up the Coral thus by force.;
there tumbles as much into the Sea as they fetch u p : and the bottom o f the Sea
being generally very ouzy, the Coral will be eaten as our fruits are eaten by the
w o r m s ; fo that the fooner they get it out o f the mud, the lefs it w ill be wa-

This puts me in mind o f one thing that I law at Marseilles f o a Shop where
they dealt in Coral. It was a great piece o f Coral, as big about as a man’s rift,
which becaufe it was a little worm-eaten, was cut in two pieces. When it was
fo cut, there was a worm that ftirr’d, and had life, and liv’d for fome months after,'
being again put into the hole. For among fome branches o f Coral there engen­
ders a kind o f fpongy-matter, like our honey-combs, where thefe worms lye like

b eSom e think that Coral is foft in the Sea, though in truth it be hard. But this
indeed is as true, that in certain months o f the year you may fqueze out o f the.
end o f a branch a kind o f milky-fubftance; and this perhaps may be a kind ot
feed which falling upon any thing that it firft meets with in the Sea (as if it light
upon a dead Skull, the blade o f a Sword, or a Pomgranate; produces another
branch o f Coral. And I have feen a Pomgranate, and had it m my hand, that had
fallen into the Sea, about which the Coral had twin’d at leaft half a foot high. _
They fifh for Coral from the beginning o f A p ril to the end o f p ly , to which
purpofe there are em ploy’d above 200 Veffels, fome years more, and fome years
lefs. They are built all along the R iver o f Genoa, being very fwift. Their fails
are very large for more fwiftnefs, fo that there are no Gallies can reach t tern.
T h ere kre feven men and a boy to every Barque. They never fifh above orty
m iles from the Land, where they think there are Rocks, for fear of the Pyrats,-
from which they make all the Sail they can when they fee them, anu eahly tcape
them through the nimblenefs o f their Veflfels. ,
I have one obfervation to make concerning Coral, in refpect ot tne taitern-
people. The faponners make little account o f Jew els or P e a rls} valuing nothing
fo much as .a good grain o f Coral, wherewith they pull the firing that touts their
Purfes fuch as w e had formerly in England. So that they ftrive who mail have,
the faireft grain o f Coral hanging at the end. o f the Silk-ftring that draws^ their
Purfes. For this reafon a piece o f Coral as big as an egg, fair and clean without
any few, will produce what any man will ask in reafon for it. The P o r t u g m fr
1^2 Travels in I ndia. ______ Part. H.
have affur’d nie they would fometimes give 20000 Crowns for fuch a piece. And
no wonder they will give fo much Money for a piece o f Coraj, whb delpifing all .
other Jewels and Pearls, care for nothing but that which is in no efteem any where
ehe. They fet a great value upon the Skin o f a certain Fifh which is rougher
than a Seal-skin. Upon the back o f the. Fifh there are fix little holes, and fome­
times eight, fomewhat elevated, with another in the middle 5 in the form o f ay ,
Rofe. They make Scabberds for Swords o f the Skin ; and the more thole holes
grow in the form o f a Rofe, the higher value they put upon them 3 having" giv-n
ten-thouliind Crowns for a Skin. To conclude the difcourfe o f Coral, you mull:
know that the meaner fort o f people ufe it for Bracelets and Neck-laces all over
fpecially toward the Northern Territories o f the G reat Mogul-, and all
along the Mountains as you go to the Kingdom o f slfen and Boutan.
Yellow-Am ber is only found upon the Coaft o f Prujjia in the Baltick^Sea, where
the Sea throws it upon the Sand when fuch and fuel! winds bloyv. The Elector
o f Brandenburgh, who is Sovereign o f that Coaft, farms it out for 20 00 0 Crowns
a year, and fometimes 22000. And the Farmers keep guards on both fides o f
the Ihoar, in regard the Sea cafts it up fometimes upon one fide, and fometimes
upon the other, to prevent the Healing o f it.
Amber is nothing but a certain congelation made in the Sea, like a certain G um f
for you fhall find in feveral pieces, Flies, Gnats, and other infects congeal’d therein.
I law feven or eight Flies fo congeal’d in one peice.
In China, when any great Lord makes a Feaft, it is for his Grandeur and M ag­
nificence to caufe three or four feveral forts o f Perfuming-pots to be let upon the
Table, and to throw into every one o f them a valt quantity o f A m b er; for the
more it burns, and the bigger the pieces are, the more magnificent is the Enter­
tainment accounted. The reafon o f this cuftom is, becaufe they adore the fire %
and befides, that the Amber cafts forth a feent pleafing to the Chinefes, there is a
kind o f Oil in it, that flames after a more unufual manner than other materials o f
fire. This wall: o f Amber makes it the belt Commodity that could be imported
into China, i f the Trade were free for Strangers. At prefont the Hollanders have
engrofs’d all this Trade to themfelves, and the Chinefes come all to Batavia to
buy it.
As for A m ber-grife; there is no perfon in the World that knows either what it
is, or where, or how it is produc'd. But the faireft probability is, that it muft be
only in the Eaftern-Sea: though fome parcels have been found upon the Coaft o f
England, and in fome other parts o f Europe. The greateft quantity is found upon
theCoaft o f Melinda,but more efpecially int he mouth o f a R iver call’d Rio de Sena.
The Governor o f Mozambique gets in the three years o f his Government above
300000 Pardo’ s o f Amber-grile, every Pardo containing 2 7 Sous o f our Money.’
Sometimes they meet with very large and very confiderable pieces. In the year
16 2 7 a Portugal fetting Sail from Goa to the Mamlles, after he had paft the
Streight o f Malacca, was by tempeft driv’n near an unknown Illand, where they
came to an Anchor. Several of. the Ship's-Company ventring a-lhore, met w ith
a R iv e r; and going to bath themfelves in it, one o f them found a great piece o f
Ahiber-grifc that weigh d thirty-three pounds; but falling together by the ears
about their lhares, the Captain, to reconcile them, told them 'twas pi-tty to deface
it, in regard it was a Prefent fit for the K in g ; and therefore advis'd them to prelent
it to the Vice-Roy, who would no doubt reward them for their pains. B v that
means the Captain got the parcel out o f their clutches, and prefenting it to the
Vice-Roy, got a reward for h im felf; and the Party that found i t : but the reft had
nothing at all.
In the year 16 4 6 or 16 4 7 , a M iddle burgher o f good quality found a piece o f
forty-tw o pounds upon the Coaft o f the Illand o f St. Maurice, where he com­
manded for the Holland-Company, Eaft o f the Ifland o f St. Lawrence andfentit
to Batavia : but there being a mark, as i f fome piece o f it w ere broken off, the
Zelander was accus'd to have taken half, and turn’d out o f his Command, what­
ever he could lay to juftify himfelf.

CHAP,
 «=*— w ~ ~ r ' ‘ : ~~

C H A P . X X II.

f} O f Musk and Bezdar ; and fome other Medicinal Stones.

H E beft fort, and the greateft quantity o f Musk, comes from the Kingdom
T o f Boutan, from whence they bring it to Patna, the ch ief C ity o f Bengalas
to truck it away for other Commodities. All the Musk that is fold in Perjia comes
from thence. And the Musk-Merchants had rather deal with you for Coral and
Y ellow -A m b er, than for Gold or S ilver; in regard the other is more in efteem
among the N atives where they live. I was fo curious as to bring the Skin o f one
to Paris, o f which I caus’d the figure to be cut.
After they have kill’d the creature, they cut off the bladder that grows under
the belly as big as an egg, neerer to the genital parts tjjan.to the navil. Then they
take out the M usk that is in the bladder, which at that time looks like clotted-
blood. When the N atives would adulterate their Musk, they fluff the bladder
w ith the liver and blood o f the Animal ,dic’d together, after they have taken out
as much o f the right Musk as they think convenient. This mixture in two or
three years time produces certain Animals in the bladder that eat the good Musk ;
fo that when you.com e to open it, there is a great waft. Others, fo foot as they
have cut off the bladder, and taken out as much o f the Musk, as that the deceit
m ay not be too palpable, fill up the Veffel w ith little ftones to make it w eight.
T he Merchants are lefs difpleas’d at this deceit than the former, by reaion that
th ey do not find the Musk to be eaten. But the deceit is harder to be dilcover d,
when they make little Purfes o f the skin o f the belly o f the Beaft, which they
lo w up with fixings o f the fame skin,- which are like the true bladders ; and then
fill thole Purfes with what they have taken out o f the right bladders, and the
oth er fraudulent mixture which they defign to put among it. True it is, that |
fhoivld they tye up the bladder fo.foon as they cut it off, without giving it air or ^
tim e to lofe its force, the ftrength o f the perfume would caufe the blood to gum
out o f the nofe, fo that it muft be qualified to render it acceptable, or rather lefs
hurtful to the brain. The fcent o f the Beaft which I earn’d to P an s, was fo
ftrong, that I could not keep it in my C ham ber; for it made all peoples heads ake
th at came neer it. At length m y Servants laid it in a Garret, and cut oft the.
bladder, and yet the fcent remain’d very ftrong. This creature is not to be found
in 6 c degrees, but in 60 there are vaft numbers, the Countrey being all oyer co­
v e r’d with Fofrefts. True it is, that in the months o f February and M arch, after
thefe creatures have endur’ d a fharp hunger, by reafon o f the great Snows that
fall where they breed, ten or tw elve foot deep, they will come to 4 4 or 4 * de­
grees to fill them themfelves with Corn and new Rice. And then it, is that the
N atives lay gins and fnares for them to catch them as they go ac . g
fame with B ow s, and knocking others o the heads. Some have a ffiird m e that
they are fo lean and faint with hunger at that time, that you may
them running. There mull be furely a prodigiousnumber o f t h e f e X I , wffl not
o f them having above one bladder no bigger than a Hen s-egg, _ afford
yield above half an ounce o f Musk : and fometimes three or four will not afford
an oance ; and yet what a w orld o f Musk is bought up ? _ _
The King o f Boutan fearing that the cheats and adulterations o f M u.k 0 d
fp o ilth e Musk-Trade, order’d.that none o f the Bladders fhould be fo w d up but
that they fhould be all brought to Boutan, and there, after due infpedtion, be leal d
up with his Seal. Y e t notwithftanding all the warinefs and (fare o f the King, they
w ill fometimes cunningly open them, and put in little pieces o f Lead to augment
thA w eight. In one Voyage to Patna I bought 7 6 7 3 bladders, that weigh 255-7
ounces and an h alf; and 4 5 2 ounces out o f the bladder. _
Bezoar comes from a Province o f the Kingdom o f Golconda toward the North-?
eaft. It is found among the ordure in the paunch o f a wdld-Goat, that browzes
upon a certain T ree, the name whereof I have fo rg o t This fhrub bears little
buds, round about which, and the tops o f the boughs, the Bezoar engenders ^
 the maw o f the Goat. It is fhap’d according to the form o f the budh' or tops o f
the branches which the Goats e a t : which is the reafon there are fo man}’’ fhapes
o f Bezoar-Stones. The Natives, by feeling the belly o f the Goat, know how
many Stones fhe has within, and fell the Goat according to the quantity. This
they will find out by Aiding their hands under their bellies, and then Ihaking both
fides o f the paunch; for the Stones will fall into the middle, where they may c
eafily count them all by their feeling.
The rarity o f Bezoar is in the bignefs; though the fmall Bezoar has the lame
vertue as that which is larger. But there is more deceit in the large B e zo ar; for
the Natives have got a trick to add to the bignefs o f the Stone, with a certain
Pafte compos d o f Gum, and fomething elfo o f the colour o f Bezoar. And they
are lb cunning too, to fihape it juft like natural Bezoar. The cheat is found out
two ways ; the firft is by weighing the Bezoar, and then fteeping it in warm w a­
te r; i f neither the water change colour, nor the Bezoar lofe any thing o f its
weight, the Stone is right. The other way is to thruft a red -hot Bodkin o f Iron
into the Sio n e; i f the Bodkie enters, and caufes it to fry, there is a mixture. Be­
zoar is dearer according to the bignefs o f the Stones, advancing in price like D ia­
monds. For i f five or fix Bezoars weigh an ounce, an ounce will be worth fifteen
or eighteen Franks; but i f it be a Stone o f one ounce, that very ounce is well
worth io o Franks. I have fold one o f four ounces and a h alf for 2000 L'v-
vres. /
I have been very curious to inform m y fe lf o f all things that concern’d the
nature of Bezoar ; but could never learn in what part o f the body o f the G oat
it was to be found. One time among the reft, having oblig’d feveral N ative M er­
chants by putting off for them a great quantity o f B ezo ar; upon- m y requeft,
though it be death without mercy to tranfport any o f thefe G oats out o f the
* Countrey, they brought me fix Goats by ftealth to m y lodging. When I ask’d
the price o f them, I was furpriz’d, when they told me one was worth but three
R ou pies; that the two other were worth four R o u p ie s; and the thrfie others
four and three quarters a piece. I ask’d them w hy fome w ere more worth than
o th ers; but I found afterwards that the firft had but one Bezoar, that the relt
had tw o, or three, or four. The fix Goats had in all feventeen Bezoars in them ,
and a half one, as big as the half o f a Hazel-nut. The infide was like the foft
oidtire o f the Goat, the Bezoar lying among the dung, which is in the belly o f
the Goat. Some averr’d that they grew right againft the liver, others right
againft the Iiearr, but I could never find out the truth.
• T UT ^ tbe as Weft, there are a great quantity o f Bezoars that breed
in the lame manner in Cows ; o f which there have been fome that have weigh’d
feventeen or eighteen ounces; For there was fuch a one that was giv’n to the Great
Duke of Ttjcany. But thofe Bezoars are little efteem’d, fix grains o f the other
Bezoar working more powerfully-than thirty o f this.
As for the Bezoar which breeds in Apes, as fome believe, it is fo ftrong, that two
grains wo; k as efteftually as fix o f G oat’s-B ezoar: but it is very foarce, as being
only found in thofe Apes that breed in the Aland o f M acafrr. This fort o f Be­
zoar is round, whereas the other is o f feveral faffiions, as I faid before. As the
pes Bezoar is ftronger, and fcarcer than the Goats, fo it is dearer, and more
rought after ; a piece as big as a nut, being fometimes worth a hunder’d Crowns.
R e Portugals make great account o f this Bezoar, ftanding alw ays upon their
guard for fear o f being poifon’d. c,
T ^ e i s another Stoae ,in great efteem, that is call’d the Porcupine’ s-Stone,
lcu, that creature is laid to carry in its head, and is m ore precious than Bezoar
r^k- d , n‘ fteep’ d in w ater a quarter o f an hour, the w ater becomes
n S I T u tha7 ° u h!nS C3n be morc bitter‘ There is aIfo a Stone fometimes found
f T 1 j tbat creatur^ ,°f the fame nature; and as good as that which comes
loti e lead neverthdefs with this difference, that being fteep’d in water, it
; S n.0t ingr 0T « nor bu^> as the other does. I have bought in m y
T ° f tho e Stones- ° ne o f them coft me coo Crowns, and I exchang’d
T , T an? u C' 1 Pa id four-hunder’d Crowns for the other, which I keep: the
other was fold me for 200 Crowns, which I prefented to a friend.

There.
 r» ■ jheV ?.k f{ie Serpent-Stone not to be forgot,, about the bigneis o f a doable j
and iome are almoft oval, thick in the middle, and thin about the fides. The /»-
dims report that it is bred in the head o f certain Serpents. But I rather take it
to be a Story o f the Idolater's Prielts, and that the Stone is rather a compofition
o f certain drugs. W hatever it be, it is o f excellent vertue to drive any venom
Vi out o f thofe that are bit by venomous creatures, i f the perfon bit be not much
wounded, the place muft be incis’d ; and the Stone being applTd thereto, will npt
fall off till it has drawn all the poifon to it. T o cleanfe it, you muft fteep it in
Womans-milk, or for want o f that, in Cows-m ilk ; after the Stone has lain ten or
tw elve hours, the milk will turn to the colour o f an Apoftemated matter. The
Arch-Biihop o f Goa carrying me to his Cabinet o f Rarities, fhew’d me one o f
thefe Stones : and after he had affur’ d me o f the rare qualities it had, he gave it
me. Once as he crofs’d a M erih in the Ifland o f Salfet e where Goa Hands, one o f
the men that carri’d his Ballequis, being h alf naked, was bit by a Serpent, and heal’d
at the-lame time. I bought fe v e ra l; but there are none but the Bramines that
fell them, which makes me believe that they compound them. There are, two
w ays to try whether the Serpent-Stone be true or falfe. The firft is, by putting
the Stone in your mouth, for then it will give a leap, and fix to the palate. The
other is, by putting it in a glafs full o f water ; for i f the Stone be true, the Wa­
ter will fall a boyling, and rife in little bubbles up to the top o f the Glaft.
There is another Stone, which is call’d the Serpent’ s-Stone with the hood. TMs
is a kind o f Serpent that has a kind o f a hood hanging down behind the head, .as
it is reprefented in the Figure. And it is behind this hood that the Stone is found,
many times as big as a Pullet’ s-egg. There are fome Serpents both in
America, o f a monftrous bignefs, foot long j as was that, the skin w h ereof is
kept in Batavia, which had fwallow’ d a Maid o f i 8 years o f age. Thefe Stones
are not found in any o f thofe Serpents that are not at leaft two fdot long. This
Stone being rubb’ d againft another Sto n e, yields a certain flim e, which be­
ing drank in water by the perlbn that has the poifon in his body, powerfully drives
it out. Thele Serpents are no-where to be found but upon the Coafts o f Melindey
but for the Stones you m ay buy them o f the Bortugueze Mariners and Souldiers
that com e from Mozambique*
 r _______ __
1^6 'Travels in I ndia. Part. II.
------ ---------------- --------------- ----------------------------------------------- — .

C H A P . XXIII.
O f the Vlaces where they find their Gold both in Alia* and America. ^

XApon, which confifts o f leveral Iflands Eaftvvard o f China, bending to the North',
J lonie people believing that Nipbon, which is the biggeft, is in a manner join’d to
the firm Land, is that Region o f all Afia that yields the greateft quantity o f G o ld :
Though others believe it is found in the H ard o f Formofa, and carri’d thence to
Japan. For as long as the Hollanders have had the Ifland, they could never
yet tell what is the Trade o f that Coaft, whence they bplieve the Gold comes.
There comes alfo Gold from China, which the Chinefes exchange for the Silver
which is brought them. For price for price, they love Silver better than Gold %
becaufe they have no Silver-Mines. Y e t it is the coarfeft metal o f all the Afia-
ftc^_Gold.
The Ifiand o f Celebes or Macajfar produces Gold alfo, which is drawn out o f
the R ivers, where it rowls among the Sand.
In the Hand o f -Achen or Sumatra, after the rainy feafon, when the Torrents are
wafted, they find veins o f Gold in the Flints, which the waters wafh down from
the Mountains that lye toward the North-eaft. Upon the Weft-fide o f the Hand,
when the Hollanders come to lade their Pepper, the N atives bring them greatu
fto re o f Gold, but very coarfe metal, i f not worfe than that o f China,
Toward the Thibet, which is the ancient Caucasus, in the Territories o f a- Raja ',
beyond the Kingdom o f Cachemir,there are three Mountains clofe one by another,
one o f which produces excellent Gold, the other Granats, and the third Lapis-
Lazuli.
There is Gold alfo comes from the Kingdom o f Tipra, but it is coarfe, almoft
as bad as that o f China j and thefe are all the places in AJia that produce Gold.
I fhall now fay ftomething o f the Gold o f Africa, and the places where it is foun<$
in greateft quantities.
Obferve by the w ay, that the V ice-Roy o f Mozambique has under his Com­
mand the Governors o f Sofala and Chepon-Gottra. The firft o f thefe two G o­
vernments lies upon the R iver Sene, fixty leagues from the Mouth o f the R iv e r ;
and the other ten leagues higher. From the Mouth o f the R iver to thole very
places on each fide o f the R iver, great numbers o f N egro’ s inhabit, which are all
commanded by one Portugueze. The Portnguezes have been Matters o f this
Countrey for many years, where they take upon them like Lords, and make War
one upon another for the flighteft occafions in the W orld; fome o f them having
under them five-thoufand Cafres, which are their Slaves. The Governor o f M o­
zambique furnifhes them with Calicuts, and all other neceflary Commodities
which they want, which he fells them at his own rates. When he enters upon
his Government he carries with him great quantities o f all forts o f Com m odities,
efpecially Calicuts dy’ d black. His Correfpondents alfo in Goa fend him e v e ry
year two Velfels, which he fends to Sofala, Chepon-Goura, and even as far as the
C ity o f Monomotopa, the chief C ity o f a Kingdom o f the fame name, otherwife
call’d Vwvebaran, diftant from Chepon-Goura fifty leagues, or there-abouts. He
that commands all that Cour.trey, affumes the name o f Em peror o f Monomotopa,
extending his Dominions as far as the Confines o f P refer John's Countrey. From
this Countrey o f Monomotopa it is, that the moft pure and fineft G old o f all Africa
com es: where they dig it with eafe out o f the earth, not being put to labour
above two or three foot deep. In fome places o f that Countrey which are not
inhabited by reafon o f the fcarcity o f w ater, the people find great pieces o f Gold,
o f leveral forms and weights, upon the furface o f the e a rth ; fome o f which
weigh an ounce. One I have by me that weighs an ounce and a h alf or there­
abouts. Being at Surat, I went to vifit the Embaflador o f the King o f the
Albyffins. He fhew’ d us the Prefent which his Matter had fent to the Great M o­
gul, confifting o f fourteen ftately Horfes, the remainder o f 30, the reft dying by
the way $ and a great number o f Slaves o f both Sexes. But what was moft
remarka-
 )
-.... ■ ____ -_____ ^____ • ' -- -r- ' •- - 1 - --- ------------------ ----- ' " --^
Book II. T ra vels in I ndia. *y l
rv:^ark>bl<\ was a natural Tree, all o f Gold, two foot and four inches high, and
fix inches about in the ftock. It had ten or tw elve branches, lome w hereof fhot
out Half a foot in length, and an inch about ; pthers much fmaller. In lome
parts o f the great branches appear’d certain bunches that refembl’d buds. The
roots o f the Tree, which w ere alfo natural, were thick and Ih ort; the longeft not
) exceeding four or five inches.
The N atives o f Monomotopa knowing the time o f the year that the Commo­
dities arrive, come to Sofala and Chepon-Goura to furnilh themftlves. Thither
alfo come the Cafres o f other Provinces and Kingdoms for the lame purpofe.
Whereupon the Governors o f thofe places fell them what they want, trailing
them till the next year, when they oblige themfelves to bring their Gold, which
th ey are very pundual to do, for elfe there could be no Trade between them.
T h e N atives o f Monomotopa never live long, by reafon o f the badnefs o f the wa­
ters m the G ou n trey: For at the age o f five and twenty years they begin to be
dropfibd ; fo that it is a great wonder i f any among them live above forty years.
T h e Province Where the R iver Sene has its head, is call’d M onkaran, and is under
the Jurifdidion o f a certain King, beginning a hunder’d leagues, or there-abouts,
above Chepon-Goura. The people o f that Gountrey find great iiore o f dull-Gold
in the Rivers that fall into the S ene ; but it is much coarier than the other, though
they bring it to Chepon-Goura and iSofala. The Countrey is very healthy, and the
people live as long as they do in Europe. Some years there are Cafres that come
from beyond the Province o f M onkaran, even as far as the Caps oj good Hopei
The portnguez, have enquir’d after their Gountrey, and the name; but they can
te-U no more, only that it is call’d Sabia, commanded by a King ; and that they
are four months generally travelling to Sofala. The Gold which they bring is
very fine, and in pieces like that o f Monomotopa, which they fay they find in the
high Mountains, digging only ten or twelve foot in the ground. They alfo bring
great quantities o f Elephants-teeth ; wherewith, by their report, the Gountrey
does fd abound, that you may lee them in herds in the fields; and that all the
Palifado’s o f their Fortreifes, and the Pales o f their Parks, are made o f Elephants-
teeth Their ufual D iet is Elephants-flefh; which four Cafres will kill with
their Aaeagayes, or a fort o f Half-pikes. The water o f their Gountrey is very
bad, which is the reafon that their thighes are fwell’d, and it is a wonder to fee
any’ one o f them free. .
Beyond Sofala there is a Countrey commanded by a King who is call d. the
K in g o f Beroe. In fome parts o f his Gountrey there grows a Root about an inch-
thick and o f a yellow colour. It heals all forts o f Fevers, caufing the Patient
to vom it. But becaufe it grow s very fcarce, the King ftriclly forbids his Sub/eds
to export it. The taft o f it is very bitter upon the tongue.
A s for Silver-M ines, there are none in all A fia but only in fapon\ but lome
vears fince at Delegora, Sangora, Bordelon and B ata, have been discover’d plenti­
ful Mines oY Tin, to the great damage o f the Enghjh , there being now enough m
A fa o f their own befides.

CHAP. XXIV.
th e Relation of a Notable fie c e of treachery, whereby the Author was
abus'd when he Embark d at Gomroin for Surat.

I N the Month o f A p ril i 66 e, being ready to depart f r o m Gomrom Tor Surat, its
I a Veflel that belong’d to a Holland-^roaker, commanded by a Holland Captain,
the Enghjh Agent gave me a Packet o f Letters to deliver to ^he refcent a
Surat. The Packet was large, containing not only the Compames-Letters, but
feveral private Letters to particular perfons at Surat and other parts ot
This Packet I receiv’d in the prefence o f one Cafembrot, a Hollander, who inform d
another Dutch-man; whofe name was W aumck, o f it. Thereupon they prefently
contriv’ d a defign to feize this Packet, upon the report that ran p f :±c rupture
between England and Holland. Cajembrot having leen the bignels o f the Packet,
gives Wauwi;ck_ a defcription o f it, and fo both together they contrive another o f
the fame form and bignefs as neer as they could. When I came a-board, I took
the Englijh Packer, and lock’d it up in my Bouccha, which is the fort o f C lo if -
bag that is us’d in that Countrey, and laid it behind my Bolfier. There were tWb'
Shallops Pent a-board us, wherein there were fixtybags o f Silver, containing fome
fifty, fome a hunder’d Tomans a piece. Thefe bags they unladed very leifhrely to
gain time, watching when I would be gone to bed. But when they faw that I did
not go to reft, the Dutch confulted together, and agreed to let fall a bag o f Tomans
into the S e a; and fo came all a-board, fending away a Shallop to Gomron for a D i­
ver. When I found that the Vefifel would not let Sail fill two or three hours affep
day-light, I went to reft,my Bouscha lying in the fame place, half out,and half,-vita *
in-fide o f my Bolfter : But when my Servants were gone, and I alone and d-fieep
in the Cabin, they cunningly ftole my Bouccha, took out the Englijh Packet, and
left the other which they had counterfeited, in the p lace ; being only fo many
Letters o f blank-paper. Coming to Surat the fixt o f AJay following, I gave the
Packet, as I thought, which I had receiv’d from the EngUjh Agent at Gomron, to
tw o Capuchin-Friers to deliver to the Prefident at Surat. But when the Prefi-
dent came to open the Packet before feveral o f the Company, there was nothing
but white-paper made up in the form o f Letters ; which when I heard, too much
to my forrow , I underftood the villanous trick that Fan-Wad^ had put upon me.
I wrote a irnart Letter o f complaint to the Zfettd-GeneraLin Batavia, but finding
no redrefs, I was forc’d to undergo the hard cenfure o f the Englijh, who would
not permit me to juftify my felf. However, as it is rare to fee treachery go un-
punilh’d, the Complotters all dy’ d milerably. Fan-Wuck fell into a violent Fer­
v o r, and being charg’d with the th e ft; thinking to defend him felf with an equi­
vocation, that i f he took the Cloak-bag, he wilh’d he might dye without fpeak-
ing a word, in three days ended his life juft in the fame manner, and at the
lame time that he had imprecated upon himfelf. Bo&an his Lieutenant, after a
great debauch, going to fieep upon the Terrafs o f the Cabin, where he lay for
coolnefs, ( there being no Balifters,) rolling and tumbling in his fieep, fell down, and
the next day was found dead in the Sea.
The Captain, four or five days after his arrival at Surat, being met in the Street
by a Mahometan, who was jealous o f his Wife, and being miftak’ n by him for
one among feveral Franks, that had parted him, and kept him from corre&ing
his Wife fome few days before, was ftabb’d by him in three or four places with a
Dagger,and kill’d him out-right. And this was the end o f thofe treacherous people.

•i ’ I. ’ .J •
*
■ Pill - 1 >- ■ * .« ‘j t / ‘J }</ I 1 . , 1: to Z; ij|
' ;

# The End of the Second Book, I

1* • " -- J -“. m . 1. l »' ■ ! ' _^ t 1... 1 1 p;

TRA-
 Book HI. Travels in I ndia.
— X.' ^ * — -- — — —; 1-----, - ' -i'll —

T R A V E L S
i n

I N D I A .

' ^ ._________________ — _______________ __________ : '

The Third Book.

C H A P . I .’
O f the particular Religion of the Mahometans in the Eafi Indies.

HE diverfity of Opinions among the Mahometans, does not confift

T in the different Expofitions which they put upon the Alcoran ; but
in the contrariety o f Belief which they receiv’d by Tradition from
the firft Succeffors o f Mahomet. From thence there fprung tw o
Sefts, directly oppofite: The one, which is call’d the Sedt o f the Sounnis, fol­
lo w ’ d b y the Turks; and the other o f the Ghiais, which is adher’d to by the
Perfians. I w"ill not enlarge m y fe lf upon thefe two S e t s , that divide all Ma~
httmetifm 5 it being m y defign, only to tell you how the condition o f that falfe
Religion ftands in the Empire of the Great Mogul, and in the Kingdoms of Gol-
conda and Fifapour.
When Mahumetifm was firft brought into the Indies, there was an excels o f
pride, but no devotion among the Chriftians; and the Idolaters w ere an effe­
minate people, able to make little refiftance ; fo that it was eafie for the M a -
humetns to lubdue both the one and the other by force o f Arms, which they
did fo advantageoully, that many, as well Chriftians as Idolaters, embrac’d the
Mahometan Religion.
The G reat Mogul, w ith all his Court, follows the Secft o f the Sornnis ; the
King o f Goiconda^that o f the Chiais. In the King o f FfapouPs Territories the
Sornnis and Chiais are mingl’d together 5 which may be faid alfo o f the Court
of the Great Mogul, in regard o f the great numbers o f Perfians that flock thi­
ther to ferve in his Armies. True it is, that though they abhor the Sounnis,
y e t they adhere to the Religion o f the Prince ; holding it lawful for the pre­
fer vatiton o f their Eftates to conceal their belief. As for what concerns the King­
dom of Golconda, ICoutoub-Cha, the prefent King, very zealoufly maintains the
L a w of the Chiais; in regard the Grandees of his Court are almoft all Per-
fans* 1 r /i
Aureng-soeb teftifies above all things an extraordinary devotion for the Sect
of th e Sornnis; o f which he is fo zealous an obferver, that he furpaffes all
his Predeceffors in outward profeflion; which was the Cloak under which he
ufurp’d the Crown. When he took poffeffion o f his Throne, he gave it out
that he did it only out o f a defign to caule the L a w o f Mahomet to be more
•ftriftly obferv’d, which had been very much neglefted in the Reign o f Sha-
jehan his Father, and Gehan-gmr his G randfather; and to Ihew him felf more,
zealous to the L aw , he turn’d Faquir or Dervich3 that is, poor Volunteer; and’
under'
j^ 0 t r a v e ls in I n d i a . P a rtll.
' ' ' ' -■.,- -- '""V. 'Nyg,"
under that falfe pretence o f Piety he cunningly made w ay to the em p ire And
indeed though he has a great many Ferfians under his pay, yet he w ill not
rU m it th e in to keep holy the day confecrated to the memory o f Hofen and
Hetifcn the tw o Sons o f A li, who were put to death by the Sourmis bendes
that they, to pleafe him, are willing enough to conform. t <-

C H A P . JI.
ffog Faquirs oy j?ooy Mahometan Volunteeys in the Ecijl Indies ,( .
/ .
r r f Hey reckon that there are in the Indies eight hundred thouiand faquirs,
1 and tw elve hundred thoufand Idolaters ? which is a prodigious Number.
T hey are all o f them Vagabonds, and lazy Drones, that dazle the eyes o f
the people w ith a falfe zeal, and make them believe that whatever comes out
o f jh e ir mouths is an Oracle. .
There are feveral forts o f Mahometan Faquirs. The one fort go aimoit naked,
like the Idolatrous Faquirs, having no certain abode in the world, but giving
themfelves up to all manner of*uncleannefs. There are others whofe Garments
are o f fo many different pieces and colours, that a man can hardly tell o f what
they are made. Thefe Garments reach down to the h alf L e g , and hide the rags
that are underneath. They go generally in T ro o p s; and have their Superiour
o f the Gang, who is known by his Garment, which is generally poorer, and
confifts o f more patches than the other. Befides, that he draws after him a
great Iron Chain, which is ty’ d to his L eg, and is about two Ells long, and
proportionally thick. When he fays his prayers, he does it with a loud voice,
and ratling his Chain all the w hile, which is accompany d with an affeCted gra­
v ity, that draws the Veneration o f the people. In the: mean time the people
prepare Dinner for him and his company,' in the place where he takes up his
ftand, which is ufually in fome ftreet or publick place. There he caufes his
Difciples to fpread certain Carpets, where he fets him felf down to give audi­
ence to the people. On the other fide, the Difciples go about publilhing through
the Country the vertues o f their M atter, and the favours he receives from
God, who reveals his moft important fecrets to h im , and gives him power
to relieve perfbns in affliction by his counfel. The people, who give credit to1
him, and believe him fo be a holy man, approach him w ith a great devotion,
and when they come near him, they pull off their Shoes, and proftrate them­
felves to kifs his feet. Then the Faqmr, to fhew his humility reaches out his
hand to kifs ? that done, he caufes them that come to confult him, to fit down
by him, and hears every one apart. T hey boaft themfelves to have a prophetick
S p irit; and above all to teach barren women a w ay how to have Children, and
to be belov’d b y whom they pleafe.
There are fome o f thefe Faquirs who have above two hundred D ifciples, or
m ore, which they affemble together b y the found o f a Horn, or the Beat o f
a Drum. When they travel, they have their Standard, Lances, and other Wea­
pons which they pitch in the ground, near to their Matter, when he repbfes in
any place.
The third fort o f Eaft Indian Faquirs, are thofe that being born o f poor Pa­
rents, and defirous to underhand the L aw , to the end they m ay become Manilas
or D oftors, retire to the Mofquees3 where they live upon the Alms which is
given them. They employ all their time in reading the Alcoran, which they
g et by h e a rt; and i f they can but add to that ftudy the knowledg o f feme
natural things, and an exemplary lifew ith all, they come to be chief o f the Mof­
quees, and to the dignity o f Moullahs, and Judges o f the Law . Thofe Faquirs
have their W ives ? and feme, out o f their great zeal to imitate Mahomet, have
three or four? thinking they do God great fervice in begetting many Children;
to be followers o f their Laws.
C HA P
•
] j

Book III Travels in I ndia, i6 t

*■ ' CHAP. Ill

O f the Religion of the Gentiles, or Idolatrous Indians.

T He Idolaters among the Indians are fo numerous, that they are reckon’ d
to be five or fix for one Mahometan. It feems a wonderful thing, that
fuch a prodigious multitude o f men Ihould be cow’d by a handful, and
bow fo eafily under the yoak o f the Mahometan Princes. But that wonder well
m ay ceafe, when w e confider that thofe Idolaters are not in union among
them felves ; for Superftition has introduc’d fuch a diverfity o f Opinions
tnd Cuftoms, that they can never agree one w ith another. An Idolater w ill
not tb f Bread nor drink W ater in the Houfe o f any one that is not o f his Cafie j
thougtoif be m ore noble, and much more fuperior to his own.. Y et they all eat
and drink in the Bram ins Houfes, which are open to all the world. A Cafie a-
mong the Idolaters, is v ery near the fame thing which was anciently call’d a
T ribe among the Je w s. And though it be vulgarly believ’d, that there are fe-
venty-tw o Caste's, yet I have been inform’d by fome o f their moft ingenuous
Priefis, that they may be all reduc’d into four principal ones, from whence all
the reft drew their Original.
The firft Cafie is that o f the Biramminsy who are the Sncceffors o f the an­
cient Brachmans, or Indian Philofophers, that ftudy’d Aftrology. You may alio
m eet with fome o f their ancient Books, in reading w hereof the Brammms fpend
all their tim e ; and are lb vers’ d in their obfervations, that they never fail a
minute in the Eclipfes o f the Sun and Moon. And to preferve this knowledg
among themfelves, they have a kind o f Univerfity, in a C ity which is call’d
(Benares, where they make all their Exercifes in Aftrology, and where they
have D octors that expound their L aw , which they, v ery ftriftly obferve. But in
regard they are fb great a number, and cannot all come to ftudy at that Uni­
v e rfity , they are all very ignorant, and confequently .very fuperftitious; thofe
that go for the moft refin’d Wits, being the greateft Sorcerers.
The fecond Cafie is that o f the Rafpoutes or K etris , that is to fay, Warriors
and warlike people. Thefe are the only Idolatrous Indians that have any cou­
rage to fignalize themfelves in War. All the R aja’ s that I have fo oft’ n men­
tion’ d, are o f this Cafie. Thefe are fo many petty Kings, whom their difumon
has render’ d Tributary to the Great M ogul. But in regard that the greateft part
o f them are in his fervice, they are highly recompenc’ d by the large Salaries
th ey receive for the ffnall Tribute which they pay. Thefe Raja’ s, and the Rafpoutes
their Subjects, are the chiefeft fupport o f the Dominions o f the G reat M o g u l ;
fo r indeed the R aja’s feffeing and feffomfeing w ere thofe that lifted up A u ren g
z.eb to the Throne. But you muft take notice, that all o f this fecond Cafie
are not W arriors; for they are the Rafpoutes only that go to War, and are all
Horfemen. But for t h e Item s, they are degenerated from their Anceftors, and
o f Soldiers are becom e Merchants. ,
The third Cafte is that o f the B annians , who are altogether addicted o
T ra d e ; o f whom fome are Sheraffs or Bankers, others breakers, emp oy e
tween Merchant and Merchant for buying and felling. Thofe o f this C a jtez v e
fo fubtil and nimble in Trade, that as I have faid before, t h e few m ay be them
Prentides. They accuftom their Children betimes to fly idlenefs. And inttead ot
fuffering them to lofe their time in playing in the ftreets,as w e generally do, tney
teach them A rithm etick; which they are fb perfect at, that w it out ma ing
Ufe either o f Pen and Ink, or Counters, but only o f their memories, they will
in a moment caft up the moft difficult account that can be lmagind. in e y
alw ays live with their Fathers, who inftruft them in Trade, and do nothing but
w h at th ey fhew them. I f any man in the heat o f paflion chafe at em, they
hear him patiently without making any reply, and parting coldly from him.,
w ill not fee him again in three or four days, when they ,think his paffion may
he over. T hey never eat any thing that has life ; nay they would father dyeftI
'■ ; T ." V I ' - ■ ; ~ ' f

162 'Travels in I ndia. Part II.

than kill the fmalleft Animal or Vermin that crawls ; being in that point above
all things phe molt zealous Obfervers o f the Law . They never fiodir; h b f -bo
to W ar; neither will they eat or drink in the Houft o f a Rajpoote, becauft
they kill the Viduals they eat, all but Cows, which they never touch.
The fourth Cafte is that o f the Charades or Soudras; who go to War as
well as the Rajpootes, but with this difference, that the Rajpootes ferve on H o rft-
back, and the Char ados on Foot. Both o f them take it for an Honour to dyc^
in B a tte l; and let him be Horft o r, Foot, that Soldier is accounted infamous
that retreats in Fight; ’tis an eternal blot in his Fam ily. Upon which fubjedt
I will tell you a ftory. A Soldier who was paflionatelv in love with his W ife,
and reciprocally beloy’d by her, had fled from the fight, not fo much out o f
any fear o f death, as out o f a confederation o f the g rie f which it would oc­
casion to his Wife, Should he leave her a Widow. When fhe knew the reafon
o f his flight, as foon as he came to the door, fhe Shut it againlt him, a n d p r^ „
der’d him to be told, that fhe, could never acknowledg that man for a Hu/oand,
who had preferr’ d the Love o f a Woman before his Honour 5 that fhe/hd not
defire to fee him any more, as being a ftain to the Reputation o f her Fam ily;
and that fhe would endeavour to teach her Children to have more courage than
their Father. The Wife continuing firm to her refolution, the Husband to re­
gain his Honour and her affeftion, return’d to the Arm y, where he fo behav’d
himfelf, that he became fam ous; and having highly made amends for his C ow -
ardift, the door o f his Houft was again fet open, and his Wife receiv’d him
with her former kindnefs.
The reft o f the Natives, that are not reckon’d in the number o f theft CafiesJ
are call’d Paoz,ecour. Theft are fuch as employ themfelves in Handicraft T rad e s;
among which there is no other diftindion, but according to the Trades which'
they follow from Father to Son. So that a Taylor cannot prefer his Son, but
only in his own Calling, though he be never fo rich ; nor marry either Son or
Daughter, but to one o f his own Craft. By the fame rule, when a Taylor dies,
all thofe o f his own Trade accompany the Corps to the place where it is burnti
and the fame pradife is obferv’d in all other Trades.
Among the particular C a p s, there is one that goes b y the name o f Alecors
whole employment is only to clean H oufes; for which every Fam ily pays him
Ibmethiiig once a month, according to their proportion and quality. I f a perCoa
o f quality in the Indies keeps fifty Servants, let him be Mahometan or Idola­
ter, there is not one o f them will take a Befome in his hand to fweep the
H o u ft; for he would think him felf affronted, it being one o f the greateft fcorns
you can put upon an Indian, to call him Alacor. Befides, every one o f thoft
Servants knows his bufinefs ; whether it be to carry the pot o f Water to
drink by the w ay, or to give his Matter his Pipe o f Tobacco when he calls
tor i t ; fo that i f the Matter fhould bid one to do that which the other was ap­
pointed to do, that Servant would ftand like a Statue, and never make him
any anfwer. But for the Slaves, they are oblig’d to do what ever the Matter
commands them. Theft Alacors having no other bufinefs but only to make
clean the Houfes, eat the feraps o f all the other Capes-, and fo without fcruple
feed upon any thing. There are none but thofe o f this Tribe make uft o f Afies
to carry away the filth o f the Houfes into the F eild s; for which reafon none o f
tne reit ol the Indians will fo much as touch that A nim al; which is quite o-
therwift in Perfia, as well for carriage, as to ride upon. M oreover, there are
m ne o f the other Indians, except the Alacors that will eat Pig.

CHAP.
Book ID. Travels ^ I ndia. 163
_ _ _ “ ~ - —

C H A P . IV .

0 / ’ the Kings and Idolatrous ‘Princes of Afia.

H E chiefeft o f the Idolatrous Kings o f A fa ^ xo the King o f Aracan,the King'

T o f Peg#, the King o f
As for the King o f
the King o f Cochinchina, and the King o f 7 »»-
we know that he was an Idolater before the.
Tartars invaded his Dominions. But fince that, w e know not what to report
o f certainty, in regard that the Tartars who are now Matters o f the Country,
ar,e neither Idolaters nor'Mahometans, but rather both together. In the Iflands,
th e 'K in g o f fapon, the King o f Cejlan, and fome petty Kings o f the Molucca
IflandSvJire Idolaters ; as are all the Raja's as well in the Empire o f the G reat
Mogul, as in the neighbouring Kingdoms o f Tifapour and Golconda. In a word,
all the meaner fort o f people, as well in the Territories o f the Great M ogul,
Kings o f Golconda and Tifapour, as in the Ifles o f Achan, java, and Mac afar,
though their Kings are Mahumetans, are all themlelves Idolaters.
Som e fifty years ago, one o f the Kings o f Cejlan became a Chriftian, and
w as baptiz'd by the name o f john, being call’d before the Emperor Priapen-
der But as foon as he had embrac’d the Chriftian Faith, the Princes and Pnefts
o f the Country fet up another King in his room. He endeavour’d all he could
to bring his people to follow his example ; to which purpofe he affign’d to
the Father fefuits, tw elve large Villages about Colombo, for the bringing up
the youth o f the Country in their Colledges ; to the end that they being w ell
InftrucTed might inftrudt others. For the King made it plain to the fefuits, that it
was impoffible for them fo well to underftand the Language o f the Country, as
to be able to preach to the Natives. Befides, that they found the ingenuities
o f the Youth o f Cejlan fo quick and apprehenfive, that they learnt more La­
tin Philofophy, and other Sciences in fix. months, than the Europeans learnt in
a y e a r ; and that they put fuch fubde Qn eft ions to their Matters, as w ere be-.

y °S o m ^ y e a r T a fte r the King had profefs’d Chriftianity, a w itty man o f the

Hand o f Ceylan, and a good natural Philofopher, whofe name was Alegamma
M otiar or the M atter o f the Philofophers, after he had convers’d with the
lefuits and other Religious perfons, was infpir’d to turn Chriftian. Thereupon
he went to the fefuits, and told them, that he defir’d to be a Chriftian ; but
withall he was very earneft to know what Jefus Chrift had done, and left in
writing T hey gave him the N ew Teftament, which he fet him felf to read with
that heed and ftudy, that in lefs than fix months there was hardly a palfage
which he could not repeat. After that he again teftifid to thejefm ts and o -
ther Religious perfons, that he had a great defire to turn Chriftian in regard
he found their Religion to be fuch as Jefus Chrift had tau g h t; but only he won­
der’ d that they them felves did not follow his example. For that he could ne­
v er find by his reading, that Jefus Chrift ever took any money o f any body ;
but that they took all they could g e t , and never baptizd nor b u n d unlefs
th ey were well paid. But though he flatted the Queftion, he was baptiz d, and
afterwards became a ledulous converter o f Others, *
164 T'vd’Vcls m I ndia. Part. 11.
■ ■ / \ .
• _r S' ""
C H A P . y.
What the Idolaters believe touching a ’D ivinity.
<y

T Hough the Idolatrous Indians attribute to the Creature, as to Cows, Apes

and feveral Monfters, thofe Divine Honours which are or^Iy due to the
true D eity ; yet they acknowledg one only Infinite God, Alm ighty, and only
Wife, the Creator o f Heaven and Earth, who fills all places with his prefence.
They call him in fome places Permejjer, in others Peremad, and Wefinon among the
Pram-ins that inhabit the Coaft o f Cormandd. It may be, becaufe they have-
heard that the Circle is the moft perfe& o f all Figures, therefore it W 'dhat'
they fay God is o f an Oval Figure; for they have in all their Pagods a / o v a l
Flintftone, which they fetch from Ganges, and worlhip as a God. They are fa
obftinately wedded to this foolifh imagination, that the wifeft among the Bra-
wins will not fo much as hear any argument to the contrary. So that it is no
wonder that a people led b y fuch blind Guides, fhould fall into fuch AbylTes
o f Idolatry. There is one Tribe fo fuperftitious, in reference to that Article that
they carry thofe Oval Flints about their Necks, and beat them againft their
Breafts, when they are at their devotions. In this dark and lamentable mift o f
ignorance, thefe Idolaters make their Gods to be born like men and affign
them Wives, imagining that theirs are the pleafures o f men. Thus they take
their Ram for a great D eity, in regard o f the Miracles which they believe he
wrought while he liv’d upon Earth. Ram was the Son o f a potent Rkja who
was call’d by the name o f Deferet, and the moft vertuous o f all his Children
which he had by two lawful Wives. He was particular belov’d by his Father"
who defign’d him to be his Succeffor. But the Mother o f Ram 'being dead'
the Raja s Other Wife, who had her Husband entirely at her beck orevail’d
w ith , him to exterminate Ram and his Brother Lokeman from his Houle and
all his Territories; upon whole exclufion the Son o f that Wife was declar’d the
Rajas Succeftor. As the two Brothers were about to be gone Rards Wife
hf, ™ take his leave, and whom the Idolaters worlhip
asaG o d d efs, beg d o f him that Ihe might not leave him, having made a refo-
iution never to forfake him ; whereupon they all three went together to feek
their fortunes. They were not very fuccefsful at firft 5 for as they pafs’ d through
a Wood, Ram being in purfuit o f a Bird, ftray’d from the Company, and was
miffing a long time 5 infomuch that S,ta fearing that fome difafter was befall’n
him befought to look after him. He excus’d h im ftlf at firft by rea-
. ion that Ram had obligd him never to leave Sit a alone, forefeeing by 1 Fro-
phrack Sp,nt what would befall her, fhould fhe be left to her felf N ever-
f 'feek f j T T1 ° T Pcr, fwaded bV prayers o f his fair Sift
L h li/ r a his B ro th e r, but in the mean time another o f the I- "
dolaters Gods, appear d to Sir* in the fhape o f a f\,»<,/.•, and bee’d an Alm s
“ f bcJ \ * * ? » £ « ■ had order’d Sir*, t h « fhe fhould not itir ont o f the p la «
Whfoh 5 > k f her.; which k
cUnowing, would not
w
in
rv
M
which prefented him unlefs fhe would remove to another place • w h“ h
mien Sit a had done, either out o f negligence or foreetfulnefq c - >a
upon her, and c a r r y * her into the t h l h f T h e W o o ^ e r f h i s t S T & d
f°„r ' ™ ; return miffing Si,a. fell into a fh’oon for g re if bn be-
tvrat t o g e tL r S?™fearch o f S>by h'h Broth,CT ,h e y tw “ immediately
w , g , rrim leaich o f Sita, w ho was fo dearly belov’d bv her HnqhanH *

dens, found Sit a in the extrem in o f ^ COming m

' t0 Levans G ar-
e extremit} o f afflnfuon ; and very much fitrpriz’d to hear
aft
 "Tn":-: ue fpeak to her in her Husbands behalf. At firft fhe would not give any
credit to fuch an Embaffador ; but the Ape, to {hew that his Commiffion was
authentick, prefents her with a Ring which her Husband had giv’n her, and
that fhe had left behind her among her Furniture. She could hardly however
believe fo great a M iracle, as that Ram her Husband fhould make a Beaft fpedk,
to bring her, the news o f his health, and to teftifie as he did the marks o f his
* affeftion. But the Ape Harman wrought M iracles himfelf, for being taken for
a Spy by fome o f Rhevans Servants, who therefore would have burnt him, he
made ufe o f the fire which they had prepar’d to burn him, to fet Rhevans Pa*
face on fire, which he almoft confum’d to the ground, with all the tatters and
rags which w ere ty ’d to his tail and his body. When the Ape had thus done,
the better to efcape out o f Rhevans hands, he took the fame w ay he came,
and repafling the Sea again at one ju m p , he came and gave Ram an account
o f his adventures; and told him in what a forrowful condition he had found
S it ,. . who did nothing but mourn b y reafon o f her abfence from her Husband.
R am ‘ touch’d w ith his W ives affeftion, refolv’d to deliver her out o f Rhevans
hands, whatever it coft him ; whereupon he rais’ d F o rce s, and being guided
b y the Ape, at len gth ' he came to Rhevans Palace, that ftill fmoak’d, the fire
had been fo g r e a t ; and by reafon that Rhevans Servants were difpers’d, Ram
had an eafie opportunity to fee. his belov’d Six a again, whom Rhevan aban­
don’d wholly 'to him, flying for fear to the Mountains. Ram and S ita were
infinitely overjoy’d at their coming together again, and return’d very great
Honours to Harm an , who had done him fo great fervice.
As for Rhevan , he fpent all the reft o f his days like a poor F a q u ir, feeing
his Country ruin’ d by Ram ’ s Troops, who was refolv’d to be reveng’d for the
injury which he had receiv’d ; and from this Rhevan it was, from whence that
' infinite multitude o f Faqu irs, that fwarm all over India, firft took their Ori­
ginal.

C H A P .' VI.
O f the Faquirs, or $oor Volunteers among the Indians, and of
their Tennances.

A t -t h e Original o f the Faquirs, as I faid before, came from that Rhevan,

1 - whom Ram difpoil’d o f his K ingdom ; at which he conceiv’d fuch an un­
speakable forrow , that hie refolv’d to lead a Vagabond life, and to wander about
the w orld, poor, ftript o f all,, and in a manner quite naked. He found enough
to follow him in a courfe o f life that gives them fo much liberty. For being
worfhip’d as Saints, they have in their hands all opportunities o f doing evil.
Thefe Fa q u irs wander generally in Troops, every one o f which has a Supe­
rior. And in regard they are quite naked, Winter and Summer lying upon the
hard ground, when it is cold, the young Faquirs, and others that are moft de­
vout, go in the afternoon to feek for the dung o f Cows and .other Creatures,
o f which they make their fires. They rarely burn Wood, for fear o f killing
any living Animal which is wont to breed in i t ; and therefore the Wood where­
w ith they burn their dead, is only fuch as has floated long in the W ater, which
never breeds any fort o f living Creature. The young Faquirs having got toge­
ther a good quantity o f dung, mix’d with dry turf, make feveral fires, accor­
ding to the bignefs o f the C om pany; round about every one o f which the F a ­
quirs feat themfelves. When they grow fleepy, they lay themfelves upon the
ground, fpreading the Afhes abroad, which ferve them for a M attrefs; without
any other Canopy than that o f Heaven.
As for the Faqu irs that do Pennance, when they are laid down in the fame
pofture as*you fee them in the day time, they kindle a good fire on each fide
o f them, for otherwife they would not be able to endure the cold, The rich
Idola-
 Idolaters account themfelves happy, and their Houles to be fill’d w ijfi- 'ih ^
benedictions o f Heaven, when they have any o f tilde Faquirs for tlfeir G ueits,
which the more auftere they are, the more they honour : and it it the g lo ry o f
the Troop to have one among them that does fome confiderable ait o f P e ­
nance.
Thefe Crews o f Faquirs many time ;oyn together to go in Pilgrimage to the ^
Principal Pagods, and publick Wafhings, which they ufe upon certain days in the
year in the R iver Ganges, whereof they make the chiefelt- account; as alfo in
that which feparates the Territories o f the Portugal; o f Goa from the Dominions
o f the King o f Ftfapour. Some o f the moft auitere Faquirs live in little pitti-
ful Huts neer their Pagods, where they have once in four and twenty hours fbme-
thing to eat beftow’d upon them for God’s fake. The Tree w h ereo f I have giv’n
the defcription, is o f the fame fort as that which grows neer Gomron, which I have; J,
defcrib’d in m y Perfian Relations. The Franks call it the Bdnnians-Tree, becaufe
in thofe places where thofe Trees grow , the Idolaters always take up their g a r ­
ters, and drefs their victuals under them. They have thofe Trees in great re­
verence, and oft-times build their Pagods either under or very neer them. That
which the Reader fees here defcrib’d, grows at Surat ; in the trunk whereof,
which is hollow, is the figure o f a Monfter, reprefenting the face o f a deform’d
Woman, which they fay was the firft Woman, whole name was Mamaniva 5 thi­
ther great numbers o f Idolaters every day refort : neer to which there is fome
Bramin or other always appointed to be ready to fay Prayers^ and receive the
Alms o f Rice, M illet, and other Grains which the charitable beftow upon them :
\ The Bramin marks the forhead o f all, both Men and Women, that come to pray
in the Pagod, with a kind o f Vermillion, wherewith he alfo befmears the Idol j
for being thus mark’d, they believe the evil Spirit cannot hurt them, as being then
under the protection o f their God.
Number I , is that part where the Bramins paint their Idols ; fuch as Mama­
niva, Sit a, Madedina, and others ; w hereof they have a great number.
Numb. 2, is the figure o f Mamaniva, which is in the Paged.
Numb. 3, is another Pagod neer the former. There hands a C ow at the door,
and within hands the figure o f their God Ram.
Numb. 4, is another Pagod, into which the Faquirs, that do Penance, often re­
tire.
Numb, j , is another Pagod dedicated to Ram.
Numb. 6, is a Hut into which a Faquir makes his retirement feveral times a
year, there being but one hole to let in the light. He hays there according to the
height o f his devotion, fometimes nine or ten days together, without either eat­
ing or drinking ; a thing which I could not have believ’ d, had I not feen it. M y
curiofity carri’d me to fee one o f thofe Penitents, with the Prefident o f the Dutch-
Company, who fet a Spy to watch night and day whether any body brought him
&ny victuals. But he could not difeover any relief the Faquir had, all the while
fitting upon his Bum like our Taylors, never changing hisjaofture above feven days
together, not being able to hold out any longer, by reafon that the heat and flench
o f the Lamp was ready to ftifle him. Their other forts o f Penance out-doing
this, might be thought incredible, w ere there not fo many thoufand witnelfes
thereof.
Numb. 7 , is the figure o f another Penitentiary, over whole head feveral years
have paft; and yet he never flept day nor night. When he finds him felf llecpy,
he hangs the weight o f the upper part o f his body upon a double-rope that is
faften’d to one o f the boughs o f the T r e e ; and by the continuance o f this pofture,
which is very ftrange and painful, there falls a humour into their legs that fwells
them very much; V
Numb. 8, is the figure o f tw o poflures o f two doing Penance j who, as
long as they live, carry their arms above their heads in that manner; which cau-
fes certain Garnofities to breed in the joynts, that they can never bring them down
again. Their hair grows down to their wafts, and their nails are as long as their
fingers.. N ight and D ay, Winter and Summer they go always Hark naked in the
fame pofture, expos’d to the heat and rain, and the flinging o f the Flies 5 from
which they have not the ufe o f their hands to rid themfelves. In other
' necef-
 u /• ' F -^9

: /
'i - . > '
o

‘i-

■ ;■ ' •\ •' , •< ' - X X

 neceOl-les they’ have other Faquirs in their company always ready to a (lift
•them.
N um b . 9, is the pofture o f another Pen!tent, who every day for feveral hours
ftands upon one foot, holding a Chafing-difh in his hand, into which he pours In-
cenfe, as an Offering to his God, fixing his eyes all the while upon the Sun.
N um b. 10 and i i , are the figures o f two other Penitents fitting with their
' hands rais’d above their heads in th eair.
N u m b . 1 2 , is the pofture wherein the Penitents fleep, without ever refting
their a rm s; which is certainly one o f the greateft torments the body o f man can
fuffer.
N u m b. 1 3 , is the pofture o f a Penitent, whole arms, through weaknefs,
hang flagging down upon his {houlders, being dry’d up for want o f nourilh-
ment.
There are an infinite number o f other Penitents; fome who in a pofture quite
contrary to the motion and frame b f nature, keep their eys always turn’d toward
the Sun Others who fix their eyes perpetually upon the ground, never fo much
as fpeaklng one w ord, or looking any perfon in the face. And indeed there is fuch
an infinite variety o f them, that would render the farther difcourfe o f them more
then tedious.
True it is, that I have hid thole parts which modefty will not fuffer to be ex­
pos’d to view. But they both in City and Countrey go all as naked as they came
ou t o f their Mothers w om bs; and though the Women approach them to take
them by the fingers-ends, and to kifs thofe parts which modefty forbids to name}
y e t {hall you not obferve in them any motion o f fenfuality; rather quite contrary,
feeing them never to look upon any perfon, but rowling their eyes in a moft fright-
ful manner, you would believe them in an extafie.

---- - - - —- _____ ___ ____ * ---------- ---------- --- ■■

C H A P . V II-

O f the Idolaters belief touching the eflate of the Soul after death.

s '- r H S an Article o f the Idolaters Faith, that the Souls o f Men departing out o f
J - the body, are prefented to G o d ; who according to the lives which they
lead, orders them another body to inhabit. So that one and the lame perfon is
born leveral times into the World. And that as for the Souls o f wicked and. vi­
cious perfons, God dilpofes them into the bodies o f cOntempt’ble Beafts, fuch as
Affes, D ogs, Cats, and the lik e ; to do Penance for their crimes in thofe infamous
Prifons. But they believe that thofe Souls that enter into Cows are happy; pre­
fuming that there is a kind o f divinity in thofe creatures. For if a man dye with a
Cow s-tail in his hand, they fay it is enough to render him happy in the other
World. . .
The Idolaters believing thus the tranfmigration o f the Souls o f men into the
bodies o f other creatures, they abhor to kill any creature whatever, for fear they
fhould be guilty o f the death o f fome o f their kindred or friends doing Penance
in thofe bodies.
I f th f Men in their life-tim e are famous for their vertnous deeds, they hold
th at their Souls pafs into the bodies o f fome Potent Raja’s : where they enjoy
the pleafures o f this,life in thole bodies, as the reward o f thole good works which
th ey did.
This is the reafon w hy the Faquirs put themfelves to fuch horrible Penances.
But becaufe that all are not able to endure fo much torment in this World, they
labour to fupply the defeft o f that cruel Penance b y good works. And befides,
they charge their Heirs in their Wills to give Alms to the Bramins, to the end that
by the powerful effeft o f their Prayers, their G od m ay aflign them the body o f
fe me N oble Perfonage,

. ■ *■ Iff
:- .1 ' ' y
~ In lanmn i & j T l h f Breaker belonging to the Holland-Company, w ir e fr a m e
was MorM s-PareK, dy d at He was a rich Man, and very charitable, giving,
hU Alms verv liberally as well to the Chriftians as to the Idolaters ; the Capu­
chins at Surat living one part o f the year upon the Rice, Butter and Pulfe which,
he f-nt them This Banian was not fick above four or five days 5 during all
which rime and for eight days more after he was dead, his Brothers diftributed.
nine or ten-thoufand Roupies 5 and in the burning o f his body they mix’d Sandal- <1
wood and LigntmrAloes, with the ordinary wood, believing that by that means
the Soul o f their Brother tranfmigrating into another body, he would come to (,
be fome great Lord in another Countrey. There are fom e that are fuch fools ,
that they bury their treafure in their life-tim e, as it is the uftal cuftom o f all the
rich Men in the Kingdom o f Hfen i to the end that i f they Ihould be condemn’d
to the body o f feme poor miferable perfon, they might have wherewithal to fup-
plv their neceffities. I remember one day that I bought in India an Agate-Cup
h alf a foot high j he that fold it me, affur’d me that it had been buried under
ground above 40 years, and that he kept it to ferve hi* occafions after death,
but that it was to him a thing indifferent whether he buried his Cup or Bis Mo­
ney In my laft Voyage I bought o f one o f thefe Idolaters fixty-two Diamonds,
o f about fix grains a-piece ; and while I was wondring to fee fo fair a parcel, he
told me I needed not to wonder 5 for he had been fifty years getting them to-,
gether to ferve him after his death, but that having occafion for Money, he was
forc’d to part with them. This buried treafure flood the R aja S ev a -G i in great
bead when he took Arms againft the Great Mogul, and the King o f njapour.
For that Raja having taken Calhan Biondi, a final 1 C ity in the Kingdom o f H ifa -
pour by the advice o f the Bramins, who alfur’d him he Ihould find great ftore o f
treafure buri'd, caus’ d the greateftpart thereof to be demolifh’d ; and found fo
much wealth, as to maintain his Arm y, which was above thirty-thoufand Men. It
is impoffible to convince thefe.poor Idolaters o f their errors ; in regard they w ill
hear no reafon, but fubmit themfelves altogether to their old forms and c u -*
ftoms.

C H A P . Y III.

O f the Cuftom among the Idolaters to hum the Bodies of their Tie ad.

H E cuftom o f burning the Bodies o f the dead is v e ry ancient among the

T Gentiles § which Ceremony they moft commonly perform by the banks o f
R ivers, where they walh the d e a d w h ic h is the laft purgation o f them from
their fins. N ay, their fuperftition is fo great fometimes, that they will carry the
fick perfon, death approaching, to the bank o f fome R iver or Pond, and put his
feet in the w ater. As nature fails,they dip him deeper and deeper,till at length they
hold him expiring up to the chin in the R iv e r : to the end that at the lame time
that the Soul departs out o f the Body, both Body and Soul may be cleans’ d from
all defilement; and then plunging the newly dead Body over head and ears, they
bring it out, and burn it in the place appointed 5 which is generally neer fome Pa-
god. There are fome perlons that make it their bnfinefs to fetch W ood, and agree
w hat they fhall have for their pains,. An Idolater being dead, all thofe o f his
Cafte or Tribe affemble together at the Houfe o f the deceas’d, and laying the
Body upon a Beer cover’ d w ith clean fine Linnen according to his Quality and
Eftate, they follow the Beer, which is carri’d by luclvas are appointed for that
purpofe to the place where the Body is to be burn’d. As they go along they fing
certain Prayers to their God, pronouncing feveral times the words R am ,R am x
while another going before the Beer, founds a little Bell, to advertize the living to
pray for the dead. The Body being fet down b y the bank o f the R iver or Pond,
they firft plunge it into the water, and then they burn it. According to the qua­
lity o f the deceas’d they alfo mingle with the ordinary wood Sandal-wood, and
other
 • i
*
. nr ~T" ' " iB j g a a a s a t a a a - - — a —— —.. --------------- r- --------— ■— " ■^ m ----- --------- -— —— .> m m ,

Book II. Travels in I ndia . 169

other Sweet-woods. But the Idolaters do not only burn the Bodies o f the dead,
but the Bodies o f the living. T hey fcruple to kill aferpent, or a loufe, but ac­
count it a meritorious thing to burn a living W ife with the Body o f the deceas’d
‘Musband,

C HA P . X.
How the Wives are burnt in India with the Bodies of their
deceas'd Husbands.

I T is alfo an ancient ciiftom among the Indians,that the Husband happening to dye,
the W ife can never m arry again. So that as (bon as the Man is dead, the Wife
retires to bewail her Husband; fome days after that, they lhave o ff her h air;
fh e lays afide all the ornaments o f her apparel; fhe takes o ff from her arms and
le g s the Bracelets which her Husband put on when he efpous’d her, in token o f her
fubmiffion, and her being chain’d to h im : and all the reft o f her life fhe lives
flighted and defpis’d, and in a worfe condition than a Slave in the v ery Houfe
w here fhe was Miftrefs before. This unfortunate condition caufes them to hate
life, fo that they rather choofe tti be buri’d alive with the body o f their deceas’d
Husbands, then to live the fcornand contempt o f all the World. Befides that,
th e Bramins make them believe; that in dying after that manner, they fhall re­
v iv e again with him in another W orld, with m ore honour and more advantages
than th ey enjoy’d before. Thefe are the m otives that perfwade the Women to
burn w ith their Husbands ; befides that, the Priefts flatter them with a hope,
th at while they are in the midft o f the flam es, before they e xp ire, Ram will
appear, and reveal wonderful vifions to th e m ; and that after their Souls
have tranfmigrated into various Bodies, they fhall at length obtain a high degree
o f Honour to-eternity.
H ow ever, there is no Woman that can burn with her Husband’s body, till fhe
has the leave o f the Governor o f the place where fhe inhabits, who being a M a ~
hmnetan, and abhorring that execrable cuftom o f Self-murder, is very fhy to per­
m it them. Befides, there are none but Widows that have no children, that lye
under the reproach that forces them to violent death. For as for the Widows
that have children, they are b y no means permitted to burn them felves; but
quite the contrary, they are commanded to live for the education o f the chil­
dren. Thole Women whom the Governour will not permit to burn themfelves,
fpend the reft o f their lives in doing Penance, and performing works o f Charity.
Som e make it their bufinefs to fit upon the Road to boyl certain Pulfe in w ater,
and to give the liquor to Travellers to drink. Others fit with fire alw ays ready
fo r them to light their Tobacco. Others make vow s to eat nothing but the un-
digefted grains which they find in Cow-dung.
T he Governour finding no perfwafions will alter the Woman’s refolution, but
m ore especially perceiving by the fign which his Secretary makes him, that he has
receiv’ d the Coin, in a furly manner gives the Woman leave, bidding the D evil
tak e her and all her kindred.
When they have got this leave, their Mufick begins to ftrike up, and away they
ding to the Houfe o f the deceas’d, with Drums beating, and Flutes playing before
them ; and in that manner they accompany the perfon that is to be burnt, to the
place appointed. All the kindred and friends o f the W idow that is to dye, come
to her, and congratulate her fo t the happinefs fhe is to enjoy in the other World s
and for the honour which the Cafte fhe is o f receives by her generous refolution,
fhe dreffes her fe lf as fhe were going to be marri’d, and fhe is conducted in tri­
umph to the place o f execution. j For the noife is loud o f Muficai Inftruments,
and Womens Voices, that follow her finging Songs in honour o f the miferabte
creature that is going to dye. The Bramins that accompany her, exhort her to*
give publick teftimonies o f her conftancy and co u rage: and many o f our Europeans
t*o« .25.- are .
 are o f opinion, that to take away the fears o f death, which naturally terrifies hu­
manity, the Priefts do give her a certain Beverage to ftupify and diferder the
fenfes, which takes from her all apprehenfion o f her preparations for death. ’ Tis
for tlie Bramins intereft that the poor miferable creatures fhould continue in th g v
refolutions 5 for all their Bracelets as well about their legs as their arms, the Pen­
dents in their ears ; their Rings fometimes o f G old , fometim es o f S ilv e r ; (fo r
th e poor wear only Copper and Tin,) all thefe belong to the Bramins, who rake
fo r them among the afhes when the party is burn’d.
I have feen Women burnt after three feveral manners, according to the differ-
rence o f the Countrey. In the Kingdom o f Guz.erat, as far as Agra and Dehli,
th e y fe tu p a little Hut about tw elve foot fqaare, upon the bank o f a Pond or
River. ’T is made o f Reeds, and ail forts o f fmall W ood, with which they min­
gle certain pots o f Oil and other D rugs to make it bum m ore vehem ently. The
Woman is plac’ d in the middle o f the Hut, in a half-lying-down pofturfi, leaning
her head upon a kind o f a wooden Bolfter, and retting her back againft a Pillar,
to which the Bramin tyes her about the middle, for fear fee fhould run away
when fhe feels the fire. In this pofture fhe holds the body o f her deceas’d Huf-
feand upon her knees, chewing Bette all the w h ile : and when fhe has continu’d in
this pofture about h alf an hour, the Brapin goes out, and the Woman bids them
fet fire to the H u t; which is immediately done by the Bramins, and the kindred
and friends o f the W oman; who alfo caft feveral pots o f Oil into the fire, to put
the Woman the feoner ou,t o f her pain. After the Woman is burnt,- the Bramins
fearch the afhes for all-her Bracelets, Pendants and Rings, whether G old, Silver,
Copper or T in , which is all free booty to themfelves.
In Bengala they burn the Women after another fafhion. In that Countrey a
Woman mutt be very poor that does not accompany the Body o f her deceas’d
Husband to the Ganges to w afe his Body, and to be wafh’d her fe lf before fhe is
burnt. I have feen dead Carkaffes brought to the Ganges above twenty days
journey o ff from the place, and fm elt ’em to b o o t; for the fcent o f them has
been intollerably noyfom. . There was one that came from the Northern Moun­
tains neer the Frontiers o f the Kingdom o f Boutan,• w ith the body o f her Hufe
band carri’d in a Waggon } fhe travell’d twenty days a-foot, and neither eat nor
drank for i y or 16 days together till fhe came to the Ganges, where after fhe had
wafh’d the body that ftank abominably, and had afterwards wafh’ d her felf, fhe
was burnt with him with an admirable conftancy. Before the Woman that is to
be burnt, goes the M ufick, confiding o f Drum s, Flutes and Hautboys, whom the
Woman in her beft Accoutrements follows, dancing up to the very Funeral-pile,
upon which fhe gets up, and places her fe lf as i f fhe w ere fitting up in her Bed §
and then they lay a-crofs her the body o f her Husband. When that is done, her
kindred and friends, fome bring her a Letter, fem e a piece o f Calicut, another
pieces o f Silver or Copper, and defire her to deliver them to their M other, o r
Brother, or fem e other Kinfman or Friend. When the Woman fees they have all
done, fhe asks the Standers-by three times, i f they have nothing m ore o f fer-
vice to command h e r ; i f they make no anfwer, fhe ties up all fhe has g o t in a
piece o f Taffata, which fhe puts between her own belly, and the b o d y o f her
Husband, bidding them to fet fire to the Pile 5 which is prefently done b y the
Bramins and her Kindred. I. have obferv’d, becaufe there is fearcity o f Wood
in Bengala, that when thefe poor Creatures are h alf griddl’d, th ey cait their
bodies into the Ganges, w here the remains are devour’d b y the Crocodiles.
I mutt not forget a w icked cuftom p rad is’d b y the Idolaters o f Bengala.
When a Woman is brought to bed, and the Child w ill not take to the Teat,
they carry it out o f the Village, and putting it into a Linnen Cloth, which they
faft’n by the four Corners to the Boughs o f a T ree, th ey there leave it from
morning till evening. By this means the poor Infant is expos’d to be tormented
by the C row s, infomuch that there are fem e who have their eyes pickt out o f
thpii heads: which is the reafen that in Bengala you feall fee many o f thefe Ido­
laters that have but one eye, and feme that have loft both. In the evening th ey
fctch the child aw ay, to try whether he will feck the next n ig h t; and i f he ftill
refufe the teat, they carry him again to the fame place next morning j which they
A f ° r three days together j after w h ich ,if the Infant after that refufes to feck, they
believe
 - ________________ ________ ' - ~ ~ \ w„ 7“'
Book III. Travels in I ndia. iji
believe him to be a D e v il, and throw him into Ganges, or any the next Pond
or River. In the places where the Apes breeds thefe poor Infants are not fo
expos’d to the Crows ; for where the Ape difcovers a Neft o f thofe Birds, he
climbs the Tree, and throws the Neft one w ay, and the Eggs another. Some-
. times fome charitable people among the Englijh, Hollanders, and Bortugals, com-
paffionating the misfortune o f thofe Children, will take them away from the
Tree, and give them good education.
All along the Coaft o f Coromandel, when the Women are to be burnt with
their Husbands, they make a great hole in the ground nine or ten foot deep,
and twenty-five or thirty foot fquare, into which they throw a great quantity
o f Wood and Drugs to make the fire burn more fiercely. When the fire is
kindled, they fet the body o f the man upon the brink; and then prefently up
comes the Woman dancing and chewing Betle; accompany’d by her Friends and
Kindred, with Drums beating, 'and Flutes founding. Then the Woman takes
three tuyis round the hole, and every time fhe has gone the round, fhe kilfes
her Friends and Kindred. A fter the third time the Bramins caft the Carcaft
o f her Husband into the flame j and the Woman ftanding with her back to
the fire, is pufht in by the Bramins alfo, and tumbles backward. Then her
Kindred and Friends caft Oil and other combuftible D rugs upon the fire, to
m ake it burn more vehem ently, that the Bodies may be the fooner con-
fiim’d.
In moft places upon the Coaft o f Coromandel, the Women are not burnt
with their deceas’ d Husbands, but they are buried alive with them in holes
Which the Bramins make a foot deeper than the tallnefs o f the man and wo­
man. Ufually they chufe a Sandy p lace; fo that when the man and woman are
, both let down together, all the Company with Baskets o f Sand fill up the hole
above h alf a foot higher than the furface o f the ground, after which they
jum p and dance upon it, till they believe the woman to be ftifl’d.
When fome o f the Idolaters upon the Coaft o f Coromandel are upon the point
o f death, their Friends do not carry them to the fide o f a R iver or Lake to
cleanfe their Souls, but they carry them to the fatteft Cow they can find
and laying the fick party juft behind the Cow , they lift up her Tail, and pro­
voke her to pift. I f fhe pifs, fo that it falls upon the face o f the fick party, all
the Company are overjoy’d, faying, that his Soul is happy. But i f the Cow
do not pifs, to wafh the fick parties face, they burn him with a great deal o f
fadneft. I f a Cow be fick, the owner muft be careful to -lead her to a Pond
or R iver j for fhould fhe dye at his Houfe, the Bramins would fine him.

CHAP. X.
Remdrkabk Stories of Women that have been burnt after their
Husbands diceafe.

T H E Raja o f relo* having loft his C ity and his life, through the lofs
o f a Battel gain’d againft him b y the King o f tfifaponrs G eneral, he
w as extreamly lamented at Court. Eleven o f his Wives alfo w ere no left
concern’ d fo r his death, and refolv’d to be burnt when his Body was
burn’d. The General o f Fifapouds A rm y undemanding their refolution, thought
at firft to divert them, by promifing them all kind ufage. But finding perfwa-
fions would not prevail, he order’d them to be fhut up in a Room. He who
had the order, going fo put it in execution, the Women in a rage told him,
that ’twas to no purppfe to keep them Prifoners, for i f they might not have
leave to do what they had refolv’d, in three hours there would not one o f
them be alive. The perfon entrufted, laugh’d at their threats; but the Keeper
Of thofe women opening- the door at the end o f the three hours, found thenv
* '._
Z 2 all'
>
all ftretch’d out dead upon the place, without any mark in the w orld to be
feen that they had any w ay haften’d their own deaths.
Two o f the moft potent Raja’s o f India came to Agra, in the year 1 6 4 2 ,
to do homage to Sha-jehan, who then reign’d ; who not having acquitted them -
felves as they ought to have done,in the judgment o f the Grand Mafter o f the K in gs
Houfhold, he told one o f the Raja’s one d a y , in the prefence o f the K in g;
that they had not done well, to behave themfelves in that manner toward fo
great a Monarch, as was the King his Mafter. The Raja looking upon him felf
to be a great King, and a great Prince, he and his Brother having brought along,
with them a Train o f i j or 16 0 0 0 thoufand H o rfe , was netPd at the bold
reproof which the Grand Mafter gave him, and drawing out his D agger, flew
him upon the place, in the prefence o f the King. The Grand M after falling at the
feet o f his own Brother, who flood clofe by him, he was going about to re­
venge his death, but was prevented by the Raja’s Brother, w ho ftab’d him,
and laid him athwart his Brothers Body. The King, who beheld thefe two
murthers one upon the neck o f the other, retir’d into his Haram for rear. But
prefently the Omrahs and other people fell upon the Raja’s, and cut ’em to
pieces. The King incens’d at fuch an attempt committed in his Houle and ift
his prefenee, commanded the Raja’ s bodies to be thrown into the R iver $ which
their Troops that they had left about Agra underftanding, threaten’d td
enter the C ity and pillage it. But rather than hazard the C ity, the King was
advis’d to deliver them the Bodies o f their Princes. When they w ere to be burn’d,
thirteen Women belonging to the two Raja’s Houfes, came dancing and leaping,
and prefently got upon the Funeral pile, bolding one another by hands, and
being prefently after ftifl’d with the fmoak, fell together into the fire. Prefently
the Bramins threw great heaps o f Wood, pots o f Oil, and other combuftible
matter upon them, to difpatch them the fooner.
I obferv’d a ftrange paffage at Fatna, being then with the Governour, a young
Gentleman o f about twenty-four years o f age, in his own Houfe. While I was
w ith him, in came a young woman, very handfome, and not above two and
and twenty years old, who defir’d leave o f the Governour to be burnt w ith
the Body o f her deceas’d Husband. The Governour compaffionating .her youth
and beauty, endeavour’d to divert her from her refolution 5 but finding he could
not prevail, with a furfy countenance, he ask’d her whether file underftood what
the torment o f fire was, and whether fhe had ever burnt her fingers ? N o, no,
anfwer’d fhe more ftoutly than before, I do not fear fire, and to let you know
as much, fend for a lighted Torch hither. The Governour abominating her
anfwer, in great paffion bid her go to the D evil. Som e young Lords that w ere
with the Governour, defir’d him to try the woman, and to call for a Torch j
which with much ado he did, and a lighted Torch was brought. So foon as
the woman law the lighted Torch coming, fhe ran to meet it, and held her
hand in the flame, not altering her countenance in the leaft; ftill fearing her
arm along up to the very elbow , till her flefh look’d as i f it had been broil’d 5
whereupon the Governour commanded her out o f his fight.
A Branun coming to Fatna, and aflembling all his Tribe together, told them,
that they muft give him tw o thoufand Roupies, and twenty-feven Ells o f Cali­
cut. To which the ch ief among them made him anfwer, that they w ere poor, and
could not poflibly raife fuch a firm. However he perfifted in his demand, po­
sitively affirming to them, that he would ftay there without eating or ( drink­
ing till they brought him the M oney and the Cloath. W ith this refolution he
climb’d a Tree, and fetting in the fork between the boughs, remain’d there
without eating or drinking for feveral days. T h e noife o f this extrava­
gance coming to the ears o f the Hollanders where w e la y , w e let Sentinels
to watch whether it were tru e , that a man could fet fo long without vkftu-
als, which he did for thirty days together. The one and thirtieth day o f fuch
an extraordinary Fall, the Idolaters fearing to kill one o f their Priefts for want
o f granting him his demand, club’d together, and brought him his twenty-
leven Ells o f Calicut, and two thoufand Roupies. So foon as the Bramin lkw
the Money and the Cloath, he came down from the T r e e ; and after he had
upbraided thofe of his Tribe for want o f Charity, he diftributed all the Roupies
among
 BooklTI. Travels in I n d ia . 173
0 among the poor, reserving only five or fix for himfelf. The Cloth he cut into
little pieces, and gave aw ay, keeping only to him felf enough to cover his own
nakednefs ; and having made this diftribution, he dilappear’d o f a fudden, and no
body knew what became o f him, though diligent fearch was made after him.
When a Chinefe lies at the point o f death, all his Kindred and Friends gather
‘‘’about him, and ask him whether he intends to go ; they tell him alio, that i f
he want any thing, he need but only ask and have, let it be Gold, Silver, or a
Woman. When they are dead they perform many Ceremonies at their Funerals,
which confifts chiefly in artificial fires, wherein the Chinefes are the molt expert
in the w o rld ; fo that h em u ftb e a very poor man that has no fire-works at
his Funeral. Befides that, they put Money in a little Box, and bury it by the
deceas’d 5 and leave good ftore o f victuals upon the G rave, out o f an opinion
th at they rile and eat. Which the Souldiers o f Batavia observing, us’d to fill
th eir Bellies at thefe Graves every time, they walk’d their rounds. But when
th e Chineses perceiv’d it, they poyfon’d the victuals to fpoil the Dutchmens feaft-
ing. The Townsmen o f Batavia taking the Souldiers part, accus d the Chi-
nefes for povfoning leveral o f the Dutch. But the Chinefes pleaded, that if the Sol­
diers had over-eat themfelves, or furfeted themfelves upon what was left for the
dead to eat, ’ twas none o f theiif fau lt; for that they did not leave their victuals for
the Souldiers ; and befides that, among all the multitudes which they had bu­
ried, they never had heard the leaft complaint before o f any one that ever came
b y any harm by eating their food. Thus the bufinefs was hulh’d o v e r } nor did
the Souldiers dare to pilfer any more. <*
*'

C H A P . IX.
O f the moft celebrated Pagods of the Idolaters in India.

H E Indian Idolaters have a great number of.Tem ples, fmall and great,
T which they call Pagods, w h e it they pray to their Gods, and make their
Offerings. But the poor people that live in the Woods and Mountains, and re­
m ote from Towns, are contented only with fome ftone, whereon they make a
rude kind o f N ole, and paint it with lome Vermilion colour, which lerves all
the whole neighbourhood to worfhip.
The four moft celebrated Pagods, are jagrenate, Banarous, Matura, and T n -

^ fagrenate is one o f the mouths o f Ganges, whereupon is built the Great Pg-
god, where the ~Arch Bramin, or chief Prieft among the Idolaters keeps his
refidence. The great Idol that ftands upon the Altar in the innermoft pait ol
the Pagod, has tw o Diamonds for his E yes, and another that hangs about his
neck, the leaft o f thole Diamonds weighing about forty Carats. About his
Arms he wears Bracelets lometimes o f Pearls, and lometimes o f R u b ies; and
this magnificent Idol is call’d Refora. The Revenues o f this Pagod are lutti-
cient to feed fifteen or twenty thoufand Pilgrims every day ; which is a num­
ber often feen there, that Pagod being the greateft place o f devotion in all In­
dia. But you muft take notice, that no Goldfmith is fuffer’d to enter this Pagod,
becaufe that one o f them being lock’d in all night long, ftole a Diamond out
o f one o f the Idols eyes. As he was about to go out, when the Pjgod was
open’ d in the morning, he dy’ d at the d o o r; their G od, as they affirm, re­
venging his own lacriledg. That which renders this Pagod, which is a large build­
in g,°th e moft confiderable in all India, is, becaufe it is fituated upon the Gan­
ges ; the Idolaters believing that the waters o f that R iver have a particular
quality to cleanle them from their fins. That which makes it fo rich ( for It
maintains above twenty thoufand C o w s) is the vaft Alms that are continually
beftow’d by fo incredible a multitude as comes from all parts. Which Alms
are not fo m uch at th e diferetion o f th e D o n o r, as at the w ill o f th e c h ie f
Prieft/
174. "Travels in I n d ia . Part H.
Prieftj who before he gives them leave to /have and waffi in Ganges, taxes'"
them according to their quality, o f which he has information. Thus he col­
lects vaft fums, o f which he makes little or no profit h im felf; all going to feed
the poor, and the repair o f the Pagod. The ch ief Bramin caufes Victuals to
be diftributed to the Pilgrims every day ; as M ilk, R ice, Butter, and Wheat j c[
but to .th e poor, who want wherewithal! to Cook it, they diftribute their fo o d 1’
ready drefst. In the morning they boil - a quantity o f R ice in Earth’n pots
of different bignels ; and at the hour when the Pilgrims come for their meat,
the chief Bramin orders another Bramin to take a pot of boil’d Rice ; this pot
he lets fall ; and i f there be five, the pot breaks into five equal parts, and eve­
ry one takes his own fhare. And in the fame manner he breaks it into more
pieces, i f there be more perfons, to whom he is to diftribute the food. Which
is a thing very ftrange and w orthy obfervation. They never boil twice in an •
Earthen p o t; but in a Copper p o t; nor have they any other Difhes, than only
certain Leaves, which they fatten together, and a certain kind o f a Baffin, a-
bout a foot in compafs, wherein they melt their Butter, and ftir the R ice with
the ends o f their fingers when they eat. They have alfo a kind o f a Shell,
wherein they pour their melted Butter, which they will fwallow down,- as we
do Sack.
N ow for the deffiription o f a particular Idol which ftands upon the Altar in
the Pagod of fagrenate: It is cover’d from the Shoulders downward with a
great Mantle that hangs down upon the Altar. This Mantle is o f Tifiue of
Gold or Silver, according to the Solemnities. At firft it had neither feet nor
hands ; but after one o f their Prophets was taken up into Heaven, while th ey
were lamenting what to do for another, God lent them an Angel in the like—
nefs o f that Prophet, to the end they might continue their Veneration toward
him. N ow while this Angel was bufie in making this Idol, the people grew
fo impatient, that they took him out o f the Angels hands, andput him into
the Pagod without hands or feet but finding that the Ido-1 appear’d in that
manner too deformed, they made him hands and arms o f thofe (mail Pearls
which we call Ounce-Pearls. As for his feet, they are never feen, being hid un­
der his Cloak. There is no part op’n but his hands and f e e t ; the head and
body being o f Sandel-wood ; round about the Daomo, under which this Idol
ftands, being very high, from the bottom to the top, are onlyNiches fill’d
with other Idols ; the greateft part w hereof repreffint moft hideous Monfters,
being all o f different colours. On each fide o f this Pagod, there ftands- ano­
ther much lels, where the Pilgrims make their lelfer Offerings. And fome
that have in ficknefs, or upon bufinefs made any Vows to any D e ity , bring thi­
ther the refemblance thereof in remembrance o f the good which they have re-
ceiv d. They rub this Idol every day with fweet Oils, that make it o f a black
colour. And at the right hand o f this Idol fits his Sifter, who-ftands upon her
feet, and is well clad, being call d by the name o f Sotora; upon his left, ftands
his Brother, eloath d all over alfo, whom they call Balhader. Before the Idol,
fomewhat toward his left hand, ftands the Idols W ife upon her feet, all o f mafly
Gold, by the name o f Remin; whereas the other three are only o f Sandal­
wood. J
The two other Pagods are appointed for the refidence o f the ch ief Bramin,
and other that officiate in the great Pagod. All thefe Bramins go with
their heads bare, and for the moft part fhav’d ; having no other Cloatk.es but
only one piece o f Calicut, with one half whereof they cover their bodies ;
the other part ferves them inftead o f a Scarf. Near the Pagod ftands the Tomb
? one ° f their Prophets, whole name was Cabir, to whom they give sweat
honour. You are to take notice a lfo , that their Idols ftand upon a kind'of
tar, eneompafs d with Iron Bars. For no perfons are to touch them, but only
certain Bramins, appointed for that, fervice by the ch ief Bramin.
»- e,'Tr CP t la1t fngrenate, the moft famous Pagod is that o f Banafons, be-
' a, 0 Cat^ uPon r^e Ganges, jn a C ity that bears the fame name. That
™ ls n f “ remarkable is, that from the Gate o f the Pagod to the R iver
hr a r-if elcent all o f Stone; near to which are certain Platforms, and fmall
m ^ a o w r s a fome for the Bramins lodging, others where they drefs their
victuals;
 victuals 5 for fo foon as the Idolaters have laid their Prayers, and mad? their Of­
ferings, they drels their food, not fuffering any perfon to touch it but themfelves*
for fear left any unclean perfon fhould come neer it. But above all things, they
' pidfilonately defire to drink o f Ganges water 5 for as often as they drink it, they
are wafh’d, as they believe, from all their fins. G reat numbers o f thefe Bramns
go every day to the cleaneft part o f the R iver, where they fill their little round
earthen-pots full o f water, the mouths w hereof are very finall, and contain every,
one o f them a BucketTfull. Being thus fill’d, they bring them before the great
Prieft, wh-o covers them with a fine piece o f flame-colour’ d Calicut, three or four
times doubl’d, to which he lets his Seal. The Bramins carry thele pots, fome
fix o f them ty’d together with fix little cords fatten’d to the end o f a flick as
broad as a lath, Ihifting their fhoulders often ; travelling fometimes ,three or four
hunder’d leagues with thofe precious burthens up into the Countrey.- Where they
fell i t , ro prefent i t ; but that is only to the rich, from whence they expetffc
great rewards. There are fome o f thele Idolaters, who when they make any
g reat Feaft, efpecially when they marry their children, will drink four or five-
hunder’d Crowns in this water. They never drink of.it till the end o f their meals j
and then a glafs or two according to the liberality o f the Matter o f the Fe^ft. The
c h ie f reafon why they efteem the water o f Ganges fo highly, is, becaule it never
putrifies, nor engenders any vermin ; though l know not whether they may be
believ'd, confidering the great: quantity o f dead bodies which they fling into the
Ganges,
The body o f the Pagod o f Banarous is made like a Croft, as are all the reft o f
the Pagods, the four parts w hereof are equal. In the midft there is a Cupola j
rais’d v e ry high, the top w hereof is pyram idal; at the end alfo o f every four
parts o f the Crofs there is a Tow er, to which there is an afeent on the out-fide.
Before you come to the top, there are feveral Balconies and Niches wherein to
take the frelh air : and round about are figures o f all forts o f creatures, but v e ry .
L eu d work. Under the Duomo, in the middle o f the Pagod there is an Altar, like
a Table, eight foot long, and fix foot broad, with two fteps before, that ferve for
a footftool, which is cover’d fometimes with a rich Tapeftry, fometimes with
Silk,, fometimes with Cloath o f Gold or Silver, according to the folemnity o f
their Feftival. Their Altars are cover’d with Cloath o f Gold or Silver, or elfe
w ith fome painted Calicuts. Approaching the entry o f the Pagod, you fee the
Altar right before y e , together with the Idols which are upon it. For the Wo­
men and Virgins worfhip without, not being permitted to enter the Pagod, no
m ore than is a certain Tribe which is among them. Among the Idols that ftand
upon the great Altar, there is one plac'd upright fome five or fix foot high ; but
you can fee neither arms, nor legs, nor b o d y : nothing appears but the head and
neck, all the reft being cover’d down to the Altar with a Robe that fpreads it fe lf
below. Sometimes you {hall fee the neck fet out with fome rich Chain either o f
Gold, Rubies, Pearls, or Emraulds. This Idol was made in honour and likenefs o f
Bainma-dou, who was heretofore a very great and holy Perionage among them,
whole name they oft’n have in their mouths. Upon the right-fide o f the Altar
ftands the figure o f a Chimera, part Elephant, part Horfe, part Mule. It is o f
maffive Gold and they call it Garon, not fuffering any perfon to approach, it but
the Bramins/ They fay it is the refemblance o f the Beaft which earn’d that holy
perfon when he liv’ d upon earth. And that he travell’d long journeys upon his
back, to fee i f the people remain’ d in their duty, and whether they did no wrong
one to another. Between the great G ate and the great Altar upon the left-hand,
th ere is a little Altar,upon which there ftands an Idol o f black Marble fitting crofs-
le g g ’ d about two foot high. While I was there, a little Boy vi^ho was the Son o f
she High-Prieft flood upon the left-fide o f the Altar, and all the people threw him
certain pieces o f Taffata, or embroider’d Calicut, like Handkerchiefs, all which he
return’d to the people again after he had wip’d them upon the Idol. Others
threw him Bracelets o f Coral, others o f yellow Am ber, others threw him fruits
and flo w ers; w hatever they threw him, he rubb’d it upon the Id o l, put it to,
his lips, and then reftor'd it to the people. This Idol is call’d Morli-Ram, that
is to fay God-Morli/ and was the Brother o f him that ftands upon the great A l-

m' Cinder'
 '■ ■ ■ '*•'■ ■ ' ......................' " " " I i in 114., .11 j, ti ■ 1 "- 1 1

1^ 6 T r a v e ls in I n d ia . P a r t .il.

Under the Portal o f the Pagod fits one o f the principal Bramins with a great
Bafon by him , full o f a yellow colour mix'd with w ater. All thefe poor Idola­
ters come and prefent themfelves before him, who gives them a mark from be-'
tween the eyes to the top o f the nofe, then upon the arm s, and upon the ftom acfi;
b y which marks they know who have walh’d them felves in Ganges, and who not.
Thole that never wafh’d themfelves but in the waters o f their own Wells, or have
only fent for it from the R iver, they do not believe to be perfectly purifi’d, and
by confequence they are not to be mark’d with that colour. B y the way take
notice, that thefe Idolaters are mark’d with different colours, according to the
Tribe they are of. But in the Empire o f the G reat Moguls they who are painted
with yellow compofe the biggeft Tribe, and are the leaft defil’d. For when they
are neceffitated to the deeds o f nature, fome think it not enough to1 wafh the part
defil’d ; but they firft rub the part with a handful o f fand, and then feour it with
water. A fter fo doing, they affirm their bodies to be clean, and that they can
eat their food without fear.
N eer to this great Pagod upon the Summer-weft, ftands a kind o f a Golledg,
which the Raja feffemg, the molt Potent o f all the Idolaters in the Mogul’s Em­
pire, built for the education o f the youth o f the better fbrr. I law two o f the
children o f that Prince there at School, who had for their Mafters feveral B ra-
wins, who taught them to w rite and read in a language peculiar to the Idolaters
Priefts, and far different from the fpeech o f the common people. Entring into the
Court o f that Colledg, and calling m y eyes up, I difeover’d tw o Galleries that
went round the Court, where I faw the two Princes fitting, attended by feveral
petty Lords and Bramins, who made feveral Mathematical Figures upon the
_ ground w ith chalk. The two Princes feeing me, fent to know who I was ; and
underftanding that I was a Franks, they fent for me up, and ask’d me feveral
queftions touching Europe, and particularly touching France. Whereupon there
being tw o Globes in the room which the Hollanders had g iv ’n the Bramins, I
Ihew’d the Princes where France lay upon one o f them. A fter I had taken leave,
I ask’d one o f the Bramins when I might fee the Pagod open ; he anfwer’d m e,
the next morning before Sun-riling. When I came there, I obferv’d before the
door, a G allery fupported with Pillars, where there was already a great crowd o f
men, women and children expecting when the Pagod would be open’ d. B y and
b y , the G allery, and a great part o f the Court being full, there came eight Bra­
mins, four o f each fide o f the G ate, with every one a Cenfer in his hand, follow ’d
by a rabble o f other Bramins that made a hideous noife with Drum s' and other In-
ftruments. T he tw o eldeft o f the Bramins fing a S o n g ; and then all the people,
falling into the tune, fall a finging and playing, with every one a Peacock’s-tail, o r
fome other kind o f flabel, to drive away the flies, that the Idol may not be an-
annoid when they op’n the Pagod. This fanning, and the Mufick, lafted a g o o d
h alf hour. Then the two principal Bramins made a great noife three times w ith
tw o little Bells, and with a kind o f a M allet knockt at the Pagod-door. W hich
was prefently. open’ d by fix Bramins within, difcovering, fome fix or feven paces
from the entrance, an Altar w ith an Idol upon it, which they call Ram, Ram, the
Sifter o f Morli-Ram. Upon her right-hand fhe has a child made like a great Cu-
fiid, which they call the G od La-kemin, and in her left-arm a little G irl, which
they call the Goddefe Sit a. So foon as the Pagod was open, and that a great Cur­
tain was drawn, the people, who perceiv’d the Idol, fell upon the ground, laying
their hands upon their heads,and proftrating themfelves three times/Then riling up,
they threw great quantities o f N ofegays and Garlands to th o p re ifts; with which
the Bramins touch’d the Idol, and then reftor’ d them again. Before the Altar flood
a Bramm, who held in his hand a lam p o f nine weeks lighted, upon which he caft
Incenfe every foot, and then held it to the Idol. All thefe ceremonies lafted above
an hour 5 after which the people departed, and the Pagod was {hut. They pre-
^ Id° ! T ith §reat ft? re o f R ice> MeaJ> Butter, O il, and Milk-meats, o f
which the Bramins lofe nothing. N o w in regard this Idol is the reprefentation o f
a Woman, the Women all invoke it, and call her their Patronefe: which is the
realon that the place is generally crowded w ith Women and Maids. The Raja, to
have this Idol in the Pagod o f his own houfe, and for taking it out o f the great
Pagod, has expended as well upon the Bramins, as in alms to the poor, above five
Lucres o f Roupies, or yy oooo Livres o f our M oney. Oa
 G|r the other fide o f the Street where the Golledg is built, there Hands another
Paged, call’d Richourdas, from the name o f the Idol, which is within upon the Al­
tar : and fomewhat low er upon another fmall Altar Hands another Idol, which they
call Goupaidas, the Brother o f Richourdas. You fee nothing but the face o f all
;tfiefe Idols, which is either o f wood or jet ; unlefs it be the Idol o f Morly-Ram,
--which Hands in the great Pagod Hark naked. As for the Idol Ram-.Ka.rn, which
' Hands in the Raja’s Pagod, it has two Diamonds inHead o f eyes, which the Prince
caus’d to be fet there, with a Coller o f Pearl, and Canopy over his head, fup-
ported with four Silver-Pillars. A
Some eight days journey from Bamrom, bending N orthward, you enter into
a Mountainous Countrey 5 but which fometimes op'ns it fe lf into very large
plains, fometimes three or four leagues in length. They are very fertil in Corn,
R ice, Wheat and Pulfe. But that which is the plague and ruine o f the people o f
that Countrey, is the yaH number o f Elephants that breed there, and devour their
Harveft. I f a Caravan pafs through any part o f that Countrey where there are
no Inns, in regard the people are forc’d to lye in the op’ n Fields, they have much
ado to defend themfelves from the Elephants that will come to take away their
provifions. To skare them, the people make great fires, flioot off their Muf~
kets, hooping and hollowing ever and anon. In this place there is another Pagod,
w ell-built, and very ancient, adorn’d with many figures both within and without,
which are only the reprefentations o f Maids and Women ; fb that Men are feldom
known to repair thither for devotion’s-fak e; and therefore it is call’d the Wo?
mens Pagod. There is an Altar in the middle, as in other Pagods; and upon the
Altar an Idol o f maffy G old, four foot high, reprefenting a Maid Handing upright,
which they call Ram-Mar ion. At her right-hand Hands a Child o f maffy Silver,
about two foot high ; and they fay that the Maid liv’ d a very holy life , that that
Child was brought to her by the Bramins to be infirufted in her belief, and in the
knowledg o f w ell-livin g: but that after two or three years that the Child had liv’d
w ith her, the Infant grew fo knowing and ready-witted, that all the Raja’s o f the
Countrey long’d for her company ; fo that being Hoi l’ n from her one night, Hie
w as never foen afterwards. Upon the left-hand o f this Idol Hands another Idol,
reprefenting an old M an; who, as they fay, was the fervant o f Ram-Marion
and the Infant: for which reafon the Bramins do very much reverence this Idol.
T hey yever come but once a year in devotion, but they muft be there upon a pre­
fix'd day, which is the firH o f November, though they never op’n the Pagod till
the full o f the Moon. During thofe fifteen days, the Pilgrims, as well Men
as Women, faft from time to tim e, and wafh rhemfelves three times a-day, not
leaving a hair in any part o f their bodies, which they take o ff with a certain
earth.

C H A P . X II.

A Cotitinmtion o f the description o f the principal ‘P agods o f

the In d ian Idolaters.

■ jVTEx'i to the Pagods o f Jngrenate and Banurous, the moft confiderable

J - V is that o f Matttra, about eighteen leagues from 4 gra, uPon th e w aY t0
Dehly. It is one o f the moft fumptuous Edifices in all India, and the place to
which the greateft number o f Pilgrims was wont to refo rt: But now there are
v e ry few or none; the Idolaters having infenfibly loft the reverence which they
had for that Pagod, fince the R iver o f Gemena, that form erly ran by that Pagod,
has chang’duts courfe, above half a league from it. For it requires fo much
time to return to the Pagod, after they have wafh’d in the R iver, that they were
many times defil’d again before they could reach it. Though this Pagod Hand in
a bottom, ye t you may difcover it five or fix leagues before you come at it, the
building being v ery lofty and magnificent. The Stones are o f a red colour,
*Aa w^ich
 ‘ • ,
' t ■ ’ v ‘ ; -v ' / !

1^ 8 ' T ra v e ls in I ndia . P a r t . II.

which they fetch from a Q uarry neer Agra. They cleave like our Slates, fome
o f them being fifteen foot long, and nine or ten foot broad, ye t hot abovfe
fix fingets thick, efpecially when you cleave them as you would have them for
ufe ; They alfo make v ery fair Pillars. The Fortreft o f -Agray the Walls o f feha-
nabaty the King’ s Houle, the two Mofquees, and feveral Noblemens Houfes are
all built o f this Stone. (
The Pagod is built upon a' great Platform o f an OElogonal Figure, pav’d w ith
F ree-fton e; being adorn’d round about with the figures o f all forts o f crea­
tures, efpecially Apes. There is an afcent to it tw o w ays o f fifteen or fixteen
fteps a-piece, every ftep being two foot broad, for tw o perfons to go a-breft.
One o f the afcents leads up to the great Portal o f the Pagod, the other behind
up to the Chancel. The Pagod does not take up above h alf the Platform, the
other half ferving for a Piaz.z.a before it. The Structure is in the form o f a
Crofs, like the reft o f the Pagods, in the midft w h ereo f a great Dmmo, with
two others o f each fide fomewhat left, advance themfelves above the reft o f
the building. The out-fide o f the building from top to bottom is adorn’d
with the figures o f Rams, Apes and Elephants, and feveral forts o f Mon-
fters. From one foot beFow every one o f theft D hcwo' s, to the R o o f , at
fuch and fuch fpaces, are Windows, fome fiv e , fome fix feet high, and to
every Window belongs a Balcone, where four perfcns may ftand. E very Baf-
cone is cover'd with a little Arch, fupported by four Pillars, others by eight,
every tw o touching one another. Round about the Dwmo’s are Niches fill'd
with the figures o f Damons. Some with four arm s, lome with four legs.
Some with mens heads npon the bodies o f Beafts, and long tails that hang
down to their thigh.es: There are abundance o f A p e s ; and indeed it is an
ugly fight to behold fo many deform’d fpedacles. There is but one great
door to the Pagod, upon each fide w hereof there are Pillars and Figures o f
Men and Monfters. The hinder-part is clos’d with a cloft Balifter o f Stone-
PillarS five or fix inches in Diam eter, into which, as into a kind-'of Sanftnm
Sanctorum, none but the Bramins are permitted to e n te r: but for Money, I got!
in, and law a fquare Altar fome fifteen or fixteen foot from the door, co­
v er’d with an old Tilfue o f Gold and Silver, upon which ftood the great IdoJa*
which they call Ram, Ram. You foe nothing but his head, which is o f a v e r y
black M arble, with two Rubies inftead o f eyes. All the body, from the Ihoul-
ders to the feet, is cover’d with a Robe o f Purple-Velvet, withTome final!
embroidery. There are two other Idols on each fide o f him two foot high, a p -
parell’d in the lame manner; only their faces are white, which they call Bec-
chor. There I alfo law a Machine fixteen foot Iquare, and between tw elve and;
fifteen foot high; cover’d with painted Calicuts, reprefonting the fhapes o f D e ­
vils. This Machine running upon four Wheels, they told me, was a moving
Altar, upon which they carri’d their great God in Proceffion to vifit the other
Gods, as alfo to the R iver, whither all the people went upon their great Fefti-
val.
The fourth Pagod is that o f Tripeti, in the Province o f Carnaticay toward th e
Goaft o f Coromandel, and Cape Comorin. I law it as I went to Maflipatan. It is a
Pagod to which there belong a great number o f little lodgings for the Btamins :
fo that altogether it foems to be a great Town. There are foveral Ponds round
about i t ; but their fuperftition is fo great, that no Paflenger dare take any w ater
out o f them, but what the Bramin gives him.

CHAP.
 __ ■ L ----- - - »- -- - - -- - -

B o o k n i. T ra vels in I n d ia . ’ 175*
" - : ~ ~
*
C H A P . XIII.
O f the ‘P ilgrimages of the Idolaters to their PagodS.

A L L the Idolaters under the Dominion o f the G reat Mogul, and other
Princes, both on this fide and beyond Ganges, at leaft once in their lives
g o in Pilgrimage to one o f thefe Pagods that I have nam'd ; but moft gene­
rally to that o f fngrenate, as being the firft and moft confiderable above all the
reft. The Bramins and-rich people go oftner. For fome go every four years,
fome every fix, or e ig h t; and putting the Idols o f their Pagods upon Pallekies
cover’d with Tiffues-, they travel! with their 1Bramins, as it were in procefiion to
the Pagod which they moft efteem.
They go not in Pilgrimage one by one, or two and two, but whole Towns,
and many times feveral Towns together. The poor that go a great w ay,
are fupply’d by the ric h ; who fpend very freely in fuch afts o f Charity. The
rich travel in Pallekies or chariots, the poor on foot, or upon O xen ; the Wife
Carrying the Child, and the man the Kitchin Implements.
The Idol which they carry in procefiion, by way o f vifit, and out o f refpeft
to the great Ram-Ram,, lies at length in a rich Palleky, cover’d with Tiffue
o f Gold and Silver, fring’d as richly ; the Mattrefs and Bolfter being o f the
fame fluff under the head, feet, and elbows. The Bramins alfo diftribute Fla-
bels to the moft confiderable o f the Company, the handles w hereof being eight
foot long, are plated with Gold and Silver. The Flabel being three foot m D ia­
m eter, o f the fame Tiffue as the Pallekies ; round about,_ it is adorn’d with
Peacocks Feathers to gather more wind, and fometimes with Bells to make a
kind o f tingling. There are fix o f thefe Flabels ufually employ’d to keep off
the Flies from their G o d ; the better fort taking it by turns, that the honour
o f waiting upon their God may be more equally fear d. *
\ ,

C H A P . X IV .

O f divers Ouftoms of the Indian Idolaters.

n r H E Bramins are well skill’d in A ftrology; and will exaftly foretell to the peo~
i 1 pie the Eclipfes o f the Sun and Moon. The fecond o f July 1 666, about one
a Clock in the afternoon, at Patna in Bengala, there was an c j p e
o f the Su n t at which time k was a prodigious thing to fee’ the multitudes oi
people, men, women, and children, that ran to the R iver Ganges, t0 w afeth em -
felves. But it behoves them to begin to walh three day& before the Eclm e ,
all which time they labour day and night in providing all forts o f R i«c, Mint,
M eats, and Sweatmeats, to th row to the Fife and Crocodiles, as oo
Bramins give the word. W hatever Eclipfe it be whether o f the Sun or Moon,
the Idolaters as foon as it appears, break all their Earthen Pots an
the houfe, which niakes a hideous noife altogether.
E very Bramin has his M agick Book, wherein are abundance . ot u rc ie ?a n a
Sem icircles, Squares, Triangles, and feveral forts o f Gifers. They a °. .
feveral Figures upon the ground, and when they find that the good hour is
com e, they cry aloud to the people to feed the fife. T h en , t ere enu f
a moft horrible din o f Drums, Bells, and great noife o f founding Mettal,which they
twang one againft another. And as foon as the victuals are thrown into t e 1-
v e r , the people are to go in and wafe and rub themfelves till the Eclipfe be o-
ver. So that in regard the waters were at that tim e very high,for more than tnree
Leagues above and below the C ity, and all the breadth o f the R iver, there
* Aa z
 Was nothfrig to be feen but the heads o f the people. As for the Bramins, they
ftay afhore to receive the richer fort, and thofe that give m o lt} to d ry th e irL
bodies, and to give them dry Linnen to their bellies. Afterwards they caufe
them to fit down in a Chair, where the moft liberal o f the Idolaters have pro­
vided Rice, Pulfe, M ilk, Butter, Sugar, Meal, and Wood. Before the Chair the
Bramin makes a place very clean about five foot fq u are ; then with Cow-dung ,
fteep'd in a kind o f yellow Balon, he rubs all the place, for fear any Emet fihould'
come there to be burnt. For indeed they would never make ufe o f W ood-if
they could help i t ; and when they do, they are v e ry careful that there be no
Worms or Infeeds in it. In the place which they have thus cleans’d, they draw
feveral Figures, as Triangles, O vals, Half-Ovals, &c. Then upon every Figure
they lay a little Cows-dung, with tw o or three fmall flicks o f Wood, upon
every one o f which they lay a feveral fort o f Grain ; after that pouring Butter,
and fetting fire to each 5 b y the fmoak which rifes, th ey judg o f the plenty
o f every fort o f Grain that year.
When the Moon is at the full in March, they keep a folemn Feftival for their
Idol, which is in form o f a Serpent. This Feftival continues nine days 3 and
when it comes, they do nothing but make Holiday all the while, as w ell men
as beafts, which they beautifie by making Circles about their eyes w ith Ver­
million, with which they alfo colour the H orns5 and i f they have a particular
kindnefs for the beaft, they hang them with Leaves o f guilded Tin. E very
morning they worfhip the Idol, and the Maids dance about it for an hour, to
the noife o f Fluits and Drums 5 after which they eat and drink and are m erry
till the evening, and then they worfhip and dance about their Idol again.
Though the Idolaters never drink any ftrong drink at other times, y e t at
this Feftival they drink Palm-wine, and ftrong w ater, which is made o f the
fame in remote Villages ; for elfe their Alahometan Governour would not fuffer
them to make Wine, nor to fell any which might be brought out o f Perfia.
Their ftrong Water is thus made : They take a great Earthen pot, well glaz’d
within, which they call Martavane ; into one o f thefe Veflels, that holds three
hundred Phris pints o f Palma-yvlne, they put in fifty or fixty pound o f brown
Sugar unrefin d, which looks like yellow Wax 5 with about twenty pound o f a
great thick bark o f a Thorn, not much unlike that which our Leather-dreflers
ufe. This bark fets the Palma-wine a bubling and working juft like our new
wines, for five or fix days together, till it becomes o f a fweet Liquor , as
owre as our Crabs. Then they diitill it, and according to the tafte they would
give, they either put into a Cauldron full, a little Bag o f M ace, or three or
four handfuls o f Annife-feed. They can make it alfo as ftrong as they pleafe.
Being at Agra in the year 16 4 2 , an Idolater, whofe name was Woldas, Broa-
u-r r ° , , ie Holl^ ersi^about feyenty years o f age, receiving news that the
° f tbe Bagod o f M at nra was dead, went to the Hollander and
delir d him to even all accounts 5 for faid he, the ch ief Prieft being dead, it
behoves me to dye, that I may ferve him in the other world. Thereupon
having ended his accounts, he took his C oach , w ith Lome o f his K in d re d -
but havmg neither eaten nor drank from the time he receiv’d the new s, he
dy d by the w ay 5 having famifh’d him felf for grief.
The Indian Idolaters have a cuftom, that, when any perfon gives a thing,
le y nap their fingers, crying out, Gi-Naram i, remember Naram i w ho was
of^him thaT gives” ^ por Pear tbe Evil Spirit fhould enter into the body

t h l S 1 SU Ff m Vh^ e ar a * 4 ° * ' bei*g demanded Cuftom for

dfer Z r l Z ° l GwIlCUt^ S 'aldly ask>d thc Governour, whether a Soul-
t h e f n rervdthef. J ? ,f.§ a llh i« life-time, ought to p ay Cuftom for two
k w l f nnm l pieces o f Cal icut, not worth four or five R o u p ie s; telling him
fawcineR L hvi ^IS ^ ]fe an<i Children. The Governour netl’d at his
he wonm r Z l um ^ o f a Whore 5 adding, that i f he were Prince
affront d ?- kC hl“ pay hlS Guftoms- Whereupon th eSo u ld ier incens’d at the
vernor S d h 38 - K n°r ^ ° ney t0 pay his dues, faring UP t0 the Go“
dier was orefenrlv !.n tbe be !^J that be d y ’d immediately. But the Soul-
dier was prefently cut in pieces by the Governors Servants.
Though'
 Though the Idolaters are in utter darknefs as to the knowledg o f the true
‘ G od, however the L aw o f Nature teaches them Morality in many things. When
they are married they are feldom falfe to their Wives. Adultery is very rare
among them. And as for Sodomy I never heard it mention’ d. They marry their
Children between feven and eight years old, for fear they fhould fall into' that
».yice; the Ceremonies w hereof are th efe: The day before the Nuptials, the
B ridegroom , aecompany’ d by all his Kindred, goes to the Houle where the
Bride lives, with a great pair o f Bracelets, two fihgers thick, hollow within,
and in tw o pieces, with a hinge in the middle to open them. According to the
quality o f the Bride thofe Bracelets are o f more or lefs value, fometimes o f
G o ld , fometimes o f Silver, Tin, or Latten, the pooreft fort o f all making ufe
o f Lead. The next day there is a great Feaft at the Bridegrooms Houfe, whe­
ther all the Kindred on both fides are invited, and about three a Clock in the
afternoon the Bride is brought thither. Then'the chief o f the Bramins that
are there , o f which there are always feveral, laying the head o f the Bride
to the Bridegrooms, pronounces feveral words, fprinkling their heads and bo­
dies all the while with water. Then they bring him upon Plates or Fig-leaves
ieveral forts o f M eats, Calicuts, and Stuffs; and then the Bramin asks the
Bridegroom , whether fo long as God (hall make him able, he*wi!l let his Wife
fhare with him, and whether he will endeavour to maintain her by his labour.
I f he fays yes, they all fet themfelves down to the Feaft prepar’d for them,
w here every one eats by himfelf. I f the Bride be rich, and be acquainted
among the N obility, their Weddings are very pompous and expenfive. The
Bridegroom is mounted upon an Elephant, and the Bride rides in a Chariot 5
the whole Company carrying Torches in their hands. They alfo borrow o f the
Governour and the N obility o f the p lace , as many Elephants and prancing
B o rfes as they can get. And they walk fome part o f the night with Fire­
w orks, which they throw about the Streets and Piazzas. But the greateft
expence to thofe that live three or four hundred Leagues from it, is to get the wa­
te r o f Ganges; for in regard .they account that water facred, and drink it out
o f devotion, it.m u ft be brought them by the Bramins, and in Earthen Veffels,
glaz’d within fide, which the chief Bramin o f Ingrenate fills him felf with the
pureft W ater o f the R iver, and then feals up with his own Seal. They never
drink this water till the end o f the Feaft, and then they give their guefts three
o r more glades apiece. This water coming fo far, and the chief Bramin de­
manding a Tribute for every pot, which contains a Pail-full, fometimes a wed­
ding comes to tw o or three thoufand Roupies. ^
The eighth o f .April, being in a C ity o f Bengala call’d Malde, the Idolaters
made a great Feaft, according to the particular Cuftom o f that place 5 they all
go out o f the C ity, and fatten Iron hooks to the. boughs o f feveral Trees, then
come a great ntmber o f poor people and hang themfelves, fome by the fides,
Tome by the brawn o f their backs, upon thofe hooks, till the weight o f their
body tearing aw ay the flefh, they fall o f themfelves. ’Tis a wonderful thing to
fee that not io much as one drop o f blood fhould iffue from the wounded iiefh,
nor that any o f the flefh fhould be left upon the h o o k ; befides, that in two
days they are perfectly cur’d by Fuch Plaifters as their Bramins give them.
There are others who at that Feaft will lye upon a bed o f nails, with the points
upward, the nails entring a good w ay into the flefh 5 however while thefe peo­
ple are under this Pennance, their Friends come and prefent them with Money
and Linhen. When they have undergone their Penance, they take the prefents
and diftribute them to the p o o r, without making any farther advantage o f
them. I ask’d one, why they made that Feaft, and fuffer’d thofe fevere Pe­
nances ; who anfwer’d me, that it was in remembrance o f the firft man, whom
th ey call’d Adam, as we do.
In the year 1 666 , I faw another fort o f Penance, as I crofs’d the Ganges j
upon the Bank o f which R iver they had prepar’d a clean place, whare one o f
the poor Idolaters was condemn’d to reft upon the ground, touching it only
with his hands and fe e t } which he was to do feveral times a day, and every
time to kifs the earth three times before he rofe up again. He was to rife up
upon his left foot, never touching the ground with Isis right all the while. And
ever f
7 everv day for a month togetherbefore he either eat or drank he was oblig'd
to this pofture for fifty times together, and confequently to kifs the ground a
hundred and fifty times. He told me, that the Bramins had enjoin’d him that
Penance becaufe he had fuffer’d a Cow to dye in his Houfe, and had not lead
her to the water to be wafh’d before ffie dy’d.
When an Idolater has loft any piece o f Gold or Silver, or fumm o f Monevr «
either by negligence, or as being ftoln from him, he is oblig’ d to carry as .much
as he loft to the great Bramin } for if he does not, and that the other fhould
come to know o f it, he is ignominioufly caft out o f his Tribe, to make him
more careful another time. ’ r __
On the other fide the Ganges Northward, toward the Mountains o f Naugro-
cot there are two or three R aja’s, who neither believe God nor the D evil.
Their Bramins have a book containing their Belief, full o f ridiculous abfurdi-
ties whereof the Author whofe name is Baudots gives no reafon. Thefe Raja’s
are the G reat Bloguls Vaftals, and pay him Tribute.
To conclude the Malavares carefully preferve the nails o f their left hands,
and let their hair grow like women’s. Thefe nails, which are half a finger long,
ferve them inftead o f C om bs; an’d it is with their left hand that they do all
• their drudgery,.never touching their faces, nor what they eat, but with their
right hands,

CHAP. XV.
Of the Kingdom of Boutan, whence comes the Musk, the good Rhus
barb, and fome Furs.

H E Kingdom o f Boutan is o f a large exten t ; but I could never yet come

T to a p erfed knowledg thereof. I have fet down all that I could learn
at P a tn a , whither the Merchants o f Boutan come to fell their Musk. The
moft excellent Rhubarb comes alfo from the Kingdom o f Boutan. From hence
is brought alfo that Seed which is good againft the worms, therefore call’d
W orm feed; and good ftore o f Furs. As for the Rhubarb, the Merchants run
a great hazard which way fbever they bring i t ; for i f they take the Northern
Road, toward Caboul, the wet fpoils it ; i f the Southern Road, in regard the
journey is long, i f the Rains happen to fall,, there is as' much danger that w ay 5
fo that there is no Commodity requires more care then that.
As for the Musk, during the heats the Merchant lofes i t , becaufe it
dries and lofes its weight. N ow in regard this Commodity pays twenty-five
in the hundred Cuftora at Gorrochepour, the laft Town belonging to the Great
Mogul, next to the Kingdom o f Boutan, when the Indian, Merchants come ,td
that City, they go to the Officer o f the Cuftom-Houfe, and tell him that they are
going to fioutan to buy Musk or Rhubarb/ and how much they intend, to lay
o u t ; all which the Officer Regifters, with the name o f the Merchant. Then
the Merchants inftead'of twenty-five, agree with him for feven or eight in the
hundred, and take a Certificate from the Officer or Cadi, that he may not de­
mand any more at their return. I f the Officer refufes a handfom compofition,
then they go another w ay, over Defarts and Mountains cover’ d with Snow,
tedious and troublefome, till they come to Caboul, where the Caravans part,
fome for great Tartary, others for Batch. Here it is that the Merchants coming
from Boutan barter their Commodities for Horfes, M ules, and C am els; for there
is little Money in that Country. Then thofe Tartars tranfport their Commo­
dities into Perfia, as far as Ardevile and Tauris j which is the reafoli that fome
Europeans have thought that Rhubarb and ’Wormfeed came out o f Tartary.
True it is, that fome Rhubarb comes from thence; but not fo good as that
o f Boutan, being fooner corrupted ; for Rhubarb will eat out its own heart. The'
Tartars carry back out o f Perth* Silks o f fmall value, which arc made in Tauris
and
- and Ardtvile, and feme Englijh Cloth brought by the Armenians from Cmjtan-
tinople and Smyrna. Some o f the Merchants that come from Cabout and Boti­
tan go to Candabar, and thence to Ifpaban ; whether they carry Coral in Beads,
yellow Amber, and Lapis Lazuli Beads, i f they can meet with it. The other
Merchants that corfle from the Coaft o f Multan, Labor, and Agra, bring only
Linnons, Indigo, and ftore o f Cornelian and Chriftal Beads. Thofe that return
J tro u g h Gorrochepour, and are agreed with the Officer o f the Cuftom-Houfe,
carry from Patna and Daca, Coral, yellow Amber, Bracelets o f Tortois-ffiells,
and other Shells, with great itore o f round and fquare thick pieces o f Tor-
tois. When I was at Patna, four Armenian 's who had been before at Boutan,
return’ d from D a n t u c i where they had made certain Figures o f yellow Am­
ber, reprefenting the lhapes o f feveral Creatures and Monlters, which they were
carrying to the King o f Boutan, who is an Idolater, as are all his people, to
fet up in his Pagods. For the Armenians for Money will (ell any thing o f Ido­
latry ; and they told me befides, that i f they could but have made the Idol
which the King o f Boutan befpoke o f them, they (hould have done their bufi-
nefs. Which was to have been a Monfters head, with fix horns, four ears, four
arms, and fix fingers upon every hand, all o f yellow Amber j but they could
not find pieces big enough.
The Caravan is three months travelling from Patna to the Kingdom o f Bon-
tan. It fets out from Patna about the end o f December, and eight days after
arrives at Gorrochepour.
From Gorrochepour to the foot o f the high Mountains, is eight or nine days
journey mop^l during which the Caravan Puffers very much hardffiip, for the
Country isTiothing but wide Forrelts, full o f wild Elephants. So that the Mer-r
chants, inftead o f taking their refts, are forc’d to watch, keep fires, and fhoot
o ff their Muskets all the night long. For the Elephant making no noife in tread­
ing, would elfe be upon the Caravan before they were a w are ; not that he
conies to do any mifehief to the men, but to get what victuals he can find. v „
Y ou may travel from Patna to the foot o f thofe Mountains in Palleki’s. But gene­
rally they ride upon Oxen, Camels, or Horfes, bred in the Country. Thofe
Horfes are generally fe little, that when a man is upon the back o f them, his
feet touch the ground ; but they will travel twenty Leagues an end, and never
bait, or elfe with a very finall one. Some o f thofe Horfes coft two hundred
Crowns ■, Tor indeed when you come to crofs the Mountains, you can make
ufe o f no other fort o f carriage but them, in regard o f the narrownefs and rug-
gednefs o f the Paffes; which many times put the Horfes very much to it,1 as
ftrong and as low as they are.
Five or fix Leagues beyond Gorrochepour you enter info the Territories o f the
Raja o f N upal, which extend to the Frontiers o f the Kingdom o f Boutan. This «
Raja is a Tributary to the Great Moguls and pays him every year an Elephant
for his Homage. He refides in the City o f Nupal, from whence he derives
his Title j but there is little either Trade or Money in his Country,' which is
all Woods and Forrefts.
The Caravan being arriv’d at the foot o f thefe Mountains, which are call’d
at this day by the name o f Naugrocot, abundance o f people come from alL
parts o f the Mountain, the greateft part w hereof are women and maids, who
agree with the Merchants to carry them, their goods and provifions crofs the
Mountains, which is eight days journey more.
The women carry upon each fhoulder a woollen Roll, to which is faften’d a
large Cushion, that hangs down upon their backs, upon which the man fits.
There are three women to' carry one man, relieving one another by turns. And
for their luggage and provifions, they lade them upon G oats,: that will carry a
hundred and fifty pound weight apiece. Thofe that wiff ride, are in many places
forc’d to have their Horfes hoifted up with Cords. They never feed them but
morning and evening, mixing a pound o f meal, half a pound o f brown Sugar,
and h alf a pound o f Butter together, with water fufficient. In the evening they
muff be contented only with a few flat Peafon, bruis’d, and fteep’d half an hour
in water. The women that carry the men, get for their ten days travel two;
Roupies apiece, and as much for every burthen which the Goats carry, and for \
every Horfe which they lead. After
 After you have pafs’d the Mountains, you may travel to Bom an upon Oxen, '
Camels, Horfes, or Palleki’s, which you pleafe. The Country is good, abound -
ing in Rice, Corn, Pulfe, and ftore o f wine. All the people both jiien and wo­
men are clad in the Summer with a large piece o f Fuftian, or Hempen-Cloath j
in the Winter with a thick Cloth, almolt like Felt. Both fticn and women wear
upon their heads a kind b f Bonnet, much like our drinking Cans,’ which they
adorn w ith Boars teeth, and with round and fquare pieces o f Tortois-SheKs. '
The richer fort intermix Coral and Amber Beads, o f which their women m ake
them Neck-Laces. The men as well as the women w ear Bracelets upon their
left hands only, from the wrift to the elbow. The women wear them ftraif3
the men loofe. About their necks they wear a filken twift, at the end where­
o f hangs a Bead o f yellow Amber or Coral, or a Boars Tooth, which dangles
upon their breads. On their left tides, their Girdles are button’d with Beads
o f the fame. Though they be Idolaters, yet they feed upon all fort o f food,
except the flefh o f Cow s, which they adore as the common Nurfes o f all men j
they are befides great lovers o f ftrong water. They obferve alfo fome Cere­
monies o f the Cbinefes, burning Amber at the end o f their Feafts, though they
do not worlhip fire like the Cbinefes. For which reafon the Merchants o f Boa-
tan will give at Patna for a Sene o f large pieces o f yellow Am ber, as big as
a N ut, bright and clean, thirty-five and forty Roupies. The Serve o f yellow
Amber,M usk,Coral, Ambergrife,Rhubarb,and other Drugs,containing nine Ounces
to the pound'. Saltpeter, Sugar, Rice, Corn, and other Com modities, are alfo
fold by the Sene in Bengala 5 but the Sene contains feventy-two o f our Pounds
at fixteen Ounces to the Pound; and forty Senes make a Mein> < ^ 4 8 2 4 Pounds
o f Pans. '
To return to yellow A m ber, a; piece o f nine ounces is worth m Boutan from
2 j o to 300 Roupies, according to its colour and beauty. Coral rou gh,or wrought
into Beads, yields profit enough 5 but they had rather have it rough, to fhaoe it -
• * as they pleafe themfelves.
The Women and Maids are generally the Artifts among them , as tp thole toys.'
T hey .alfo make Beads o f Cryltal and Agat. As for the Men, they make Bracelets
o f Tortoife-lhell, and Sea-fhells, and polilh thofe little pieces o f Shells which the
Northern people wear in their ears, and in their- hair. In ' Patna and Daca there
are above two thouland perfons that thus employ themfelves, furnishing the King­
doms o f Boutant Afem, Siam , and other Northern and Eaftern parts o f the M o­
gul's Dominions.
As for Wormfeed, the Herb grows in the Fields, and muft dye before the Seed
can be gather’d : but the mifchief is, that before the Seed is ripe, the wind fcat-
ters the greateft part, which makes it lo fcarce. When they gather the Seed
they take two little Hampers, and as they go along the Fields, they move their
Hampers from the right to the left, and from the left to the right, as i f they
were mowing the Herb, bowing it at the top, and fo all the Seed falls into the
Hampers.
Rhubarb is a R oot which they cut in pieces,:and bringing them by ten or tw elve
together, hang them up a drying.
Had the N atives o f Bom an as much art in killing the Martin as the M ufcovite -
u r ™ §h,r v f n<^ § reat. ft °re o f thofe rich Furs, confidering what a number o f
thOie Beaus there are in that Countrey. No looner does that creature peep out
. , l s . e» • Mafcovnes, who lye upon the watch, have e’ m prefently
either in the nofe or in the eyes j for fliould they hit e’ m in the body, the blood
would quite Ipoyl the skin. *
„ . The K ’n§ o f Botttan has conftantly feven or eight thouland Men for his Guard.
Tfieir Weapons are for the molt part Bows and A rrow s. Som e o f them carry
Battel-axes, and Bucklers. ’Tis a long time ago fince they had the firft ufe o f
Muskets and Gannons : their Gun-powder being long, but o f an extraordinary
force. T hey affur’d me that fem e o f their Cannons had Letters and Figures up­
on them, that were above five-hunder’d years pld. T h ey dare npt ftir out o f the
ng om without the Governor s particular leave j nor dare they carry a M usket
Krinf ^hem, unlels their next Kindred w ill undertake for them that they fhall
gi aek, Otherwife X had brought one along with me •, for by the cha­
racters
 ra&ers upon the Barrel, it appear’d to have been made above 18 0 years. It was
v ery thick, the mouth o f the bore being like a Tulip, polifh’d within as bright as
a Looking-glals. Tw o thirds o f the Barrel were garnifh’d with embofs’d Wires,
with certain Flowers o f Gold and Silver inlaid between ; and it carri’d a Bullet
that weigh’d an ounce. But I could not prevail with the Merchant to fell it me,
> iiQr to give me any o f his powder.
There are always fifty Elephants kept about the King’s Houfe, and twenty five
Camels, jv ith each a Piece o f Artillery mounted upon his back, that carries half ,
a pound Ball. Behind the Gun fits a Cannoneer that manages and levels the Guns
ashepleafes. '
There is no King in the World more fear’d and more refpeded by his Subjeds
then the King o f Boutan ; being in a manner ador’d by them. When he fits to do
Juftice, or give Audience, all that appear in his prefence hold their hands clofe to­
gether above their forheads : and at a didance from the Throne proftrate them-
felves upon the ground, not daring to lift up their heads. In this humble pofture
they make theirTetitions to the King ; and when they retire, they go backwards
till they ate quite out o f his fight. One thing they told me for truth, that when
the King has done the deeds o f nature, they diligently preferve the ordure, d ry
it and powder it, like (heel ing-powder : and then putting it into Boxes, they go
e ve ry Market-day, and prefent it to the chief Merchants, and rich Farm ers, who
recompence them for their kindnefs: -that thofe people alfo carry it home, as a
great rarity, and when they feaft their Friends, drew it upon their meat. Tw o
Boutan Merchants fhew’d me their B o xes, and the Powder that was in
them.
The N atives o f Boutan are ftrong and well proportion’d ; but their nofes and
faces are fomewhat flat. Their women are Paid to be bigger and more vigo­
rous than the men ; but that they are much more troubled: with (wellings in
the throat then the men, few efcaping that difeafe. They know not what war
is, having no enemy to fear but the Mogul. But from him they are fenc’d
w ith high, deep, craggy, and fnowey Mountains. Northward there are nothing - 1
but vad Forreds and" Snow. Ead and W ed nothing but bitter water. And as
for the Raja’s near them, they are Princes o f little force.
There is .certainly fome Silver Mine in the Kingdom o f Boutan, for the King
coins much Silver, in pieces that are o f the value o f a Roupy. The pieces
are already deterib d. However the Boutan Merchants could not tell me where
the Mine lay. And as for their Gold, that little they have is brought them
from the Ead, by the Merchants o f thote Countries.
In the year 16 ^ 9 , the Duke o f Mufcovy’s Embafladors pafs’d through this
Country to the King o f China. They were three o f the greated Noblemen in
Mufcovy', and were at fird very well receiv’ d ; but when they were brought
J to kills the Kings hands, the cudom being to prodrate themtelves three times to.
the ground, they refus’d to do it, faying that they would complement the King
after their manner, and as they approach’d their own Emperor, who was as great
and as potent as the Emperor o f China. Thereupon, and for that they con­
tinu’ d in their refolution, they w ere difmifs’d with their pretents, not being ad­
mitted to fee the King. But had thofe Embafladors conform’d to the cudom o f
China, without doubt w e might have had a beaten rode through Mufcovy and
the North part o f G reat T an ary, and much more commerce and knowledge
o f the Country than now w e have.
This mentioning the M u fco vites , puts me in mind o f a dory that feveral
M ufcovy Merchants averr’d to be true, upon the rode between Tauris and If-
pahan, where I overtook them, o f a woman o f fourfeore and two years o f
age, who at thote years was brought to bed in one o f the Cities o f Mufcovy,
o f a M ale Child, which, was carry’d to the Duke, and by him brought up at
the C ourt.

£2 H A P„
 chap. xyr.
O f the Kingdom of Tipra.
Cc 1

, TV/I Oft People have been o f opinion till now, that the Kingdom of. Pegu lies
X V x upon the Frontiers o f China ; and I thought fo my felf, till the Merchants
o f Tipra undeceiv’d me. I met with three, one at Daca, and two others at
Patna. They were men o f v ery few words ; whether it w ere their own
particular dilpofition, or the general habit o f the Country. They caft
up their accounts with fmall Stones likes Agats, as big as a mans nail, upon
every one o f which was a Cypher. They had every one their weights, like
a Stelleer; though the Beajn w ere not o f Iron, but o f a certain Wood as hard
as B razile; nor was the Ring that holds the weight, and is put thorough the
Beam to mark the w eight, Of Iron, but a ftrong Silk Rope. And thus they
weigh’d from a D ram to ten o f our Pounds. I f all the Natives o f the. King­
dom o f Tipra w ere like the tw o Merchants which I met at Patna, I dare a f ­
firm them to be notable to p e rs; for they never refus’d whatever ftrong L i­
quor I gave them, and never left till all was o u t ; and when I told them by
m y Interpreter that all my Wine was gone, they clapt their hands upon their
ftomachs and figh’d. Thefe Merchants travell’d all three through the K ing­
dom o f Arakan, which lies to the South and Weft o f Tipra, having dome, part
o f Pegu upon the Winter Weft. They told me alfo, that it was about fifteen
days journey to crofs through their C ou n try; from whence there is no cer­
tain conjecture o f the extent to be made, by reafon o f the inequality o f the
ftages. T hey ride upon Oxen and Horfos, which are lo w , but very hardy. As
for the King and the N obility, they ride in their Pallekies, or upon their Ele­
phants o f War. They are no lefs fu bjed to Wens under their throats, than
thole o f Boutan j infomuch that the women have thole Wens hanging down
to their Nipples 5 which proceeds from the badnefs o f the waters.
There is nothing in Tipra which is fit for Arrangers. There is a Mine o f
G o ld , but the Gold is very courfe. And there is a fort o f very courle
Silk, which is all the Revenue the King has. He exaCts no Subfidies from his
Subjects j but only that they, who are not o f the prime N o b ility , 'fhould
work fix days in a year in his M ine, or in his Silk-works. He lends his
Gold and his Silk into China, for which they bring him back S ilv e r, which
he coins into pieces to the value o f ten Sous. He alfo makes thin pieces o f
Gold, like the a4jpers o f Tmhy ; o f which he has tw o forts, four o f the one foft-
making a Crown, and tw elve o f the other. \
 CHAP. XVII.
O f the Kingdom of A le m .

T was never known what the Kingdom o f Afem w a s, till Mirgimola had
I fed’d Au.reng-z.eb in the Empire. For he confidering that he ihould be no
longer valu’d at Court, after the war was at an end, being then General o f A a-
reng-z.eb’s Army, and powerful' in the Kingdom, where he had great ftore o f
Creatures, to preferve the Authority he had, refolv’d to undertake the Con-
queft o f the Kingdom o f Afem ; where he knew he fhould find little or no re­
finance, that Kingdom having been at peace above yoo years before. ’Tis
thought thefe were the people that formerly invented Guns and Pow der; which
fpead it felf from Afem to Pegu, and from Pegu to China,-from Whence the invention
has been attributed to the Chinefes. However certain it is, that Mirgimola
brought from thence feveral pieces o f Canon, which were all Iron Guns, and
ftore Of excellent Powder, both made in that Countrey. The Powder is round
and fmaTl, like ours, and very ftrong.
Mirgimola embark’d his Army in one o f the mouths o f Ganges, and failing
up one o f the Rivers that comes from the la k e Chiamay, to the twenty-ninth
or thirtieth D egree, he landed his Army, and came into a Country abounding
in all humane neceffaries, ftill finding the lefs refiftahce becaufe the people were
furpriz’ d. Being a Mahumetan, he fpar’d not the very Pagods, but burn’d and
lack’d all where-ever he came to the thirty-fifth Degree. There he under-
flood that the King o f Afem was in the field with a more powerful Army
than he expeded, and that he had feveral pieces o f Canon, and great ftore o f
fire-works withall. Thereupon Mirgimola thought it not convenient to march
any farth e r; though the chief reafon o f his return was the drawing on o f J
W in ter; which the Indians are fo ferifible of, that it is impoflible to make" *
them ftir beyond the thirti’th or thirty-fifth Degree,' elpecially to hazard their
lives.
Mirgimola therefore turns to the South-weft, and befieges a City call’d Az.00,
which he took in a fmall time, and found good plunder therein. Ih this City o f
Az.00, are the Tombs o f the Kings o f Afem, and o f all the Royal Family. For
though they are Idolaters, they never burn their dead bodies, but bury them.
They believe that the dead go into another world, where they that have liv’d
well in this, have plenty o f all things ; but that they who have been ill livers,
fuffer the want o f all things, being in a more efpecial manner afflided with
/ hunger and drowth 5 and that therefore it is good to bury fomething with them
to ferve them* in their neceffities. This was the reafon that Mirgimola found
fo much wealth in the City o f Az.00. For many ages together, feveral Kings
had built them Chappels in the great Pagod to be buried in, and in their life
times had ftor’d up in the Vaults o f their particular Chappels, great fums o f
Gold and Silver, and other moveables o f value. Befides, that when they bury
the deceas’d Kihg , they bury with him Iikewife whatever he efteem’d moft
pretious in his hfe-time, whether it were an Idol o f Gold or Silver, or what­
ever elfe, that being needful in this, might be necelTary for him in the world
to come.' But th’at which favours moft o f Barbarifm is, that when he dies,
all his belt beloved Wives, and the principal Officers o f his Houfe poyfon them-
felves to be buri’d with him, and to wait upon him in the other world. Be­
fides this, they bury one Elephant, twelve Camels, fix Horfes, and a good num­
ber o f Hounds, believing that all thofe Creatures rile again to ferve their

^ T h 'e Kingdom o f Afem is one o f the beft Countries o f all Afta, for it pro­
duces all things neceflary for humane fubfiftence, without any need o f foreign
fupply. There are in it Mines o f Gold, Silver, Steel, Lead, Iron, and great
.ftore o f Silk, but courfe. There is a fort o f Silk that is found under the
the Trees ■ which is Thun by a Creature like to our Silk-worms, but rounder,,
3 * Bb 2 and
’ ’A , •
and which lives all the year long tinder the trees. The Silks which are made <-.
Of this Silk glift’ n very much, bet they fret prefently. The Country produces
alfo great ftore o f G u m -L ak e; o f which there is two forts, one grows under
the trees o f a ted colour, wherewith they paint their Linnen and Stuffs; and
when they have drawn out the red juice, the remaining fubftance ferves to v ar-
ftifh Cabinets, and to make W ax; being the bell Lake in A fa. for thofe ufest '
As for their Gold they never fuffer it to be tranfported out o f the Kingdom,
nor do they make any Money o f i t ; but they preferve it all in Ingots, which
pals in trade among the Inhabitants ; but as for the Silver, the King coins
it into Money, as is already deferib’d.
Though the Country be very plentiful o f all things, ye t there is no flelh which'
they elteem fo much as Dogs flelh ; which is the greatefl delicacy at all Feats j
and is fold every month in every C ity o f the Kingdom upon their Market-days.
There are alfo great ftore o f Vines, and very good Grapes, but they never make
any W ine; only they dry the Grapes to make Aqua Kitae As for Salt they have
none but what is artificial, which they make two ways. Firft they raile great
heaps o f that green Stuff that iWims at the top o f Handing waters, which the
Ducks and Frogs eat. This they dry and burn; and the allies thereof being
boil’d in a Cloth in water, become very good Salt. The other way moll in ule
is to take the leaves o f Adams Fig-tree, which they dry and burn; thealbes
w hereof make a Salt fo tart, that it is impoffibfe to eat it until the tartnels
be tak’n a w a y ; which they do by putting the alhes in water, where they ftlv
them ten or twelve hours togeth er; then they ftrain the fubftance through a
Linnen Cloth and boil i t ; as the water boils away, the bottom thick’ns ; and
when the water is all boil’d away, they find at the bottom very good and w h ite
Salt.
O f the alhes o f thefe Fig-leaves they make a L y e , wherewith they wafti their
Silk, which makes it as white as Sn o w ; but they have not enough to whiter*
h alf the Silk that grows in the Country.
Kemeroaf is the name o f the C ity where the King o f Afem keeps his C o u rt;
twenty-five or thirty days journey from that which was formerly the Capital
C ity, and bore the lame name. The King requires no Subfidies o f his peo­
ple ; but all the Mines in his Kingdom are his o w n ; where for the cafe o f his
Subjects, he has none but Haves that work ; fo that all the Natives o f Afem
live at their eafe, and every one has his houfe by himfelf, and in the middle o f
his ground a fountain eneompafs’d with trees; and m oll commonly every one
an Elephant to carry their W ive s; for they have four W ives, and when they
marry, they lay to one, I take thee to ferve me in fuch a thing ; to the other,
I appoint thee_ to do fuch bufinefs; fo that every one o f the W ives knows what
fhe has to do in the Houfe. The men and women are generally well complexi-
on’d ; only thofe that live more Southerly are m ore Iwarthy, and not fo fub-
je ft to Wens in their throats; neither are they fo well featur’d, befides that the
women are lomewhat flat N os’ d. In the Southern parts the people go ftark
naked, only covering their private parts, with a Bonnet like a blew Cap upon
their heads, hung about with Swines teeth. They pierce holes in their ears, that
you may thruft your thumb in, whete they hang pieces o f Gold and Silver.
Bracelets alfo o f Tortotfe-fhefls, and Sea-fhells as long as an egg, which they
law into Circles, are in great elteem among the meaner fo r t; as Bracelets o f
Coral and yellow Amber among thole that are rich. When they bury a man,
all his Friends and Relations mull come to the burial; and when they ^/ay the
body in the ground, they all take o ff their Bracelets from their Armsand Legs,
and bury them with the Corps.
 CHAP. xvur.
O f the Kingdom of Siam.
1 '*

T H E greateft part o f the Kingdom o f Siam lies between the G o lf o f Siam

and the G o lf o f Bengala ■ bordering upon Pegu toward the North, and the
Peninfula o f Malacca toward the South. The fhorteft and neareft way for the
Ear op&anr to go to this Kingdom, is to go to Ifpahan, from Ifpahan to Ormus,
from OrmusXO Surat■ from Surat to Golconda, from Golconda to Majlipatan, there
to embark for Denouferin, which is one o f the Ports belonging to the King­
dom o f Siam. From Denouferin to the Capital C ity, which is alfo call’d Siam,
is thirty-five days journey, part by Water, part by Land, by Waggon, or upon
Elephants. The w ay, whether by Land or Water, is very troublefome ; for by
Land you muft be always upon your guard, for fear o f Tigers and Lionsj by
W ater, by reafon o f the many falls o f the R iver, they are forc’d to hoife up
their Boats with Engines.
All the Gountrey o f Siam is very plentiful in Rice and Fruits; the chiefeft
w h ereo f are Mangos, Dunens, and Manguftans. The Forefts are full o f Harts,
Elephants, Tigers, Rhinocero’s, and A pes; where there grow alfo large Bambou’s
in great abundance. Under the knots o f thefe Bambou’s are Emets neftsas big
as a mans head, where every Emet has his apartiment by him felf; but there is
but one hole to enter into the neft. They make their nefts in thefe Canes to
prefcrve themfelves from the rains which continue four or five months together.
In the night time the Serpents are very bufie. There are fome two foot
long, with two heads ; but one o f them has no motion. (
There is alfo another creature in Siam, like our Salamander, with a forked
tail, and very venomous.
The Rivers in this Kingdom are very la rg e ; and that which runs by Siam is
equally as large as the reft. The water is very wholefom e; but it is very full
o f Crocodiles o f a monftrous bignefs, that devour men if they be not very care­
ful o f themfelves. T.hefe R ivers overflow their banks while the Sun is in the
Southern Tropiek ; which makes the fields to be very fertile as far as they flo w ;
and it is obferv’ d, that the Rice grows higher or lower, as the floods do more
or lefs increafe.
Siam, the Capital City o f the Kingdom, where the King keeps his Court, is
wall’d about, being about three o f our Leagues in circuit; it is fituated in an
, Iftand, the River running quite round it, and might be eafily brought into eve-
/ ry ftreet in the Town, i f the King would but lay out as much Money upon
that defign, as he Upends in Temples and Idols.
The Siamers have thirty-three Letters in their Alphabet. But they write
from the left to the right, as we do, contrary to the cuftom o f fapon, China,
Cochinchina, and Tunquin, who write from the right to the left.
All the Natives o f this Kingdom are flaves, either to the King or the great
‘ Lords. The women as well as the men cut their hair ; neither are they very
rich in their habits. Among their complements, the chiefeft is, never to go
before a perfonthat they refpedt, unlefs they firft ask leave, which they do by
holding up both their hands. Thofe that are rich have feveral Wives.
The Money o f the Country is already deferib’ d.
The King o f Siam is one o f the richeft Monarchs in the Eaft, and ftiles him­
fe lf King o f Heaven and E arth ; though he be Tributary to the Kings o f China.
He feldom {hews himfelf to his Subjects; and never gives Audience, but to
the principal Favourites o f his Court. He trufts to his Minifters o f State,
for the management o f his affairs, who fometimes make very bad ufe o f their
authority. He never (hews himfelf in publick above twice a y e a r ; but then
it is with an extraordinary magnificence. The firft is, when he goes to a cer­
tain Pagod within the C ity, which is guilded round both within and without.
There are three Idols between fix and feven foot high, which are all o f malfie
G o ld ;
G o ld ; which he believes he renders propitious to him, by the great ftore o f.
Alms that he diftributes among the poor, and the prefents which he makes to
the Priefts. Then he goes attended by all his Court, and puts to open view
the richeft Ornaments he has. One part o f his magnificence confifts in his
train o f tw o hundred Elephants; among which there is one that is w hite,
which the King fo highly efteems, that he ftiles himfelf King o f the Whitd
Elephant.
The fecond time the King appears in publick, is when he goes to another*
Pagod five or fix Leagues above the Town, up the River. But no perfbn
xriufi enter into this Pagod, unlefs. it be the King and his Priefts. As fo r
the people, fo foon as they fee the D oor op’n, they muft prefently fall upon
their faces to the Earth. Then the King appears upon the R iver with two
hundred Gallies o f a prodigious length; four hundred Row ers belonging to
every one o f the Gallies ; moft o f them being guilded and carv’d very richly.
Now in regard this fecond appearance o f the King is in the month o f No­
vember, when the waters begin to abate, the Priefts make the people believe
that none but the King can flop the courfe o f the waters, by his Prayers
and by his Offerings to this Pagod. And they are fo vain as to think that
the King cuts the waters with his Sabra, or Skain} thereby commanding; it to
retire back into the Sea.. . . .
The King alfo goes, but incognito„ to a- Pagod in an Ifland where the Hol­
landers have a Fadory. There is at the entry thereof an Idol fitting crofs-
leg’d, with one hand upon his knee, and the other arm akimbo. It is above
fixty foot h ig h ; and round about this Idol are about three hundred others,,
o f feveral forts and fizes. All thefe Idols are guilt. And indeed there are a
prodigious number o f Pagods in this Countrey; for every rich Siamer caufes
one to be built in memory o f himfelf. Thofe Pagods have Steeples and Bells,
and the Walls within are painted and guilded; but the Windows are fo nar­
row that they give but a very dim light. The two Pagods to which the
King goes publickly, are adorn’d with feveral tall Pyram ids, well guilded.
And to that in the Hollanders Ifland there belongs a C lo yfter, which is a
very neat Structure. In the middle o f the Pagod is a fair Chappel, all guild­
ed within fid e; where they find a Lamb, and three Wax Candles continually
burning before the Altar, which is all over cover'd with Idols, fome o f maifie
G o ld , others o f Copper guilt. In the Pagod in the midft o f the Town,
and one in o f thofe to which the King goes once a year, there are above four
thoufand Idols ; and for that which is fix Leagues from Siam, it is furround-
ed with. Pyram ids, whole beauty makes the "induftry o f that Nation to be
admir’d.
When the King appears, all the Doors and Windows o f the Houfes muft
be fh u t; and all the people proftrate themfelves upon the ground, not da­
ring to lift up their eyes. And becaufe no perfon is to be in a higher place
than the King, they that are within doors, are bound to keep their low eft
Rooms. When he cuts his- hair,, one o f his Wives performs that office, fo r
he will not fuffer a Barber to come near him.
This Prince has a paffionate kindnefs for his Elephants ; which he looks upon
as his Favourites, and the Ornaments o f his Kingdom. I f there be any o f
them that fall lic k , the Lords o f the Court are mighty careful to pleafe
their Soveraign ; and i f they happ'n to d y e , they are buried w ith the fame
Funeral Pomp as the Nobles o f the Kingdom; which are thus performed:
They let up a kind o f Maufoleum, or Tomb o f Reeds, cover’ d with Paper;
in the midft whereof they lay as much fweet wood as the body weighs, and
after the Priefts have mumbl’d certain Orifons, they fet ita-fire, and burn it to
a llie s; which the rich preferve in Gold or Silver Urns, but the poor fcatter
in the wind. As for offenders, they never burn, but bury them.
'Tis thought that in this Kingdom there are above two hundred Priefts,
which they call Bonz.es, which are highly reverenc’d as well at Court as among
the people. The King himfelf has fuch a value for fome o f them, as to hum­
ble him felf before them. This extraordinary refpeft makes them fo proud,
that fome o f them have afpir’d to the Throne, But when the King difcovers
any
 any fuch defign, he puts them to death. And one o f them had his head lately
ftruck off for his Ambition.
Thele Bonz.es wear yellow , with a little red Cloth about their W afts, like
a Girdle. Outwardly they are very modeft, and are never feen to be angry.
About four, in the morning, upon the tolling of, their Bells, they rife to their
prayers, which they repeat again toward evening. There are fome days in
the year when they retire from all converfe with men. Some o f them live
b y Alms ; others have Houfes with good Revenues.. While they wear the Ha­
bit o f Bonz.es, they mult not m a rry ; for i f they do, they muft lay their Ha­
bit afide. They are generally very ignorant, not M ow ing what they believe.
Y et they hold the tranfmigration o f Souls into feveralBodies.They are forbidd to kill
any C reatu re; y e t they will make no fcruple to eat what others kill, or that
which dies o f it felf. They fay that the God o f the Chriftians and theirs were
B ro th ers; but that theirs was the eldeft. I f you ask them where their God
is, they fay, he vanilh’d aw ay, and they know not where he is.
J The chief ftrength o f the Kingdom is their Infantry, which is indifferent g o o d ;
the Soldiers are u sd to hardflfip, going all quite naked, except their private
p a rts; all the reft o f their body, looking as i f it had been cupt, is carv’d into
leveral fhapes o f beafts and flowers. When they have cut their skins, and
ftanch’ d the blood, they rub the cut-work with fuch colours as they think
moft proper. So that afar off you would think they were clad in lome kind
o f flower’d Satin or o th er; for the colours never rub out. Their weapons
are Bows and Arrows, Pike and Musket, and an Ascagaya, or Staff between
five and fix foot long with a long Iron Spike at the end, which they very
dextroufly dart at the Enemy.
In the year i6 6 y , there was at Siam a Neapolitan fefuite, who was call’d a
Father Thomas; he caus’d the Town and the Kings Palace to be fortifi’d with
v e ry good Bulwarks, according to Art ; for which reafon the King gave him
leave to live in the C ity, where he has a Houfe and a little Church.

CHAP. XIX.
O f the Kingdom of M a c a fla r ; and the Emhaffadors which the
Hollanders fent into China.

) r 'I f H E Kingdom o f Macajfar, otherwifle call’d the Ijle of Celebes, begins

/ JL at the fifteenth D egree o f Southern Latitude. The heats are exceffive
all the d a y ; but the nights are temperate enough. And for the Soil, it is
very fe rtile ; but the people have not the art o f building. The Capital C ity
bears the name o f the Kingdom, and is fituated upon the Sea. The Port is fr e e ;
for the Veffels that bring great quantities o f goods from the adjacent Iflands,
pay no Cuftoms. The Iflanders have a cuftom to poyfon their A rro w s; and
the moft dangerous poyfon which they ufe, is the juice o f certain Trees in the
H and o f Borneo ; which they will temper fo as to work fwift or flow, as they
pleafe. -, They hold that the King has only the fecretReceit to take away the
force o f i t ; who boafts that he has the moft effectual poyfon in the World,
which there is no remedy can prevent.
One day \ EngUJh man in heat o f blood had kill’d one o f the Kings o f
Macajfars Subjects; and though the King had pardon’d him, yet both Eughjk,
Hollanders, and Portugals fearing i f the Englijh man fhould go unpunifli’d, left
the Iflanders fiiould revenge themfelves upon fome o f them, befought the King
to put him to d eath ; which with much ado being contented to, the King un­
willing to put him to a lingring death,and defirous to {hew the effed o f his poyfon,
refolv’d to {hoot the Criminal him felf; whereupon he took a long Trunk, and
{hot him e x a d ly into the great Toe o f the right foot, the place particularly
aim’d at. Tw o Chirurgeons, one an Englijlo man, and the other a Hollander,
p ro:
 1^2 Travels in I n d i a . Part. IL
——■ t ■ 1■ — ■— ~— —---------- --------------- — f— 1 ■ ■» . ^
provided on purpofe, immediately cut off the m e m b e r; but for all that, the*
poyfon had difpers’d it fe lf fo fpeedily, that the E n g lijh man dy’d at the feme
time. All the Kings and Princes o f the Eaft are v e ry diligent in their enquiry
after ftfong poyfons. And I remember that the c h ie f o f the Dutch F a d o r y and
I try’d feveral poyfon’ d Arrows, with which the K in g o f lic h e n had prefentecjl
him, by fhooting at Squirrels, who fell down dead, as foon as ever they weVc
touch’d.
The King o f M acajfar is a M ahometan , and w ill not luffer his Subjects to
embrace Chriftianity. Y et in the year i 6 f 6,the Chriftfans found a w ay to get leave
to build a fair Church in M acajfar. But the next year the K in g caus’d "it to be
pull’d down, as alio that o f the Dominican Friars,1 which the Portugals made
ufe of. The Parifh Church, which was under the G overnm ent o f the fecular
Priefts, flood ftill, till the Hollanders attack’d M a c a jfa r , and com pell'd him to
. . turn all the Portugals out o f his Dominions. T he ill conduct o f that Prince
was in part the occafion o f that war ; to which the H ollanders w ere m ov’d,
to revenge themfelves upon the Portugal fefuites, who had crofs’d their Em -
baffy to China. Befides, that they offer’d great affronts to the H ollanders at
M a ca jfa r , efpecially when they trod under foot the H at o f one o f the M u tch
Envoys, who was fent to treat with the King in beh alf o f the Company. There­
upon the Hollanders refolv’d to unite, their forces with the Bouquljes, that w ere
in rebellion againft their Soveraign, and to revenge th e m fe lv e sa t any rate.
N ow as to the bufinefs o f China , it happen’ d thus : T ow ard the end o f the •
, year 1 6 $ 8, the General o f B a ta via and his Council, lent one o f the ch ie f o f
the Holland Company with Prefents to the K in g o f China ; who arriving at
Court, labour’d to gain the friendfhip o f the M a n d arin s , w ho are the N o b ility
o f the Kingdom. But the feftites , who by reafon o f their long abode in the
Country, underftood the language, and were acquainted w ith the Lords o f the
the Court, left the Holland Company fhould get footing to the prejudice o f
the Portugals, reprefented feveral things to the Kings Council to the prejudice
o f the Hollanders ; more efpecially charging them w ith breach o f Faith in all
the places where they came. Upon this the H o lla n d A gen t was difmifs’d, and
departed out o f China without doing any feats. A fterw ards coming to under­
hand what a trick the Portugal fefm tes had put upon him, he made report
th ereof to the General and his Council at B a tavia} which fo incens’d them
t h v they refolv’d to be reveng’d. For by the D eputies accou nts, the E m -
baffy had coft them above fifty thoufend Crowns j for w hich th ey confulted
how to make the Portugals pay double. Underflanding therefore the trade
•which the fefmts drove in the Ifland o f M acao , and ro the Kingdom o f M a -
ci whlthJe r. uRon ^ e ir own account they fent feven V effels, laden with all forts
Commodities, ^ s w e ll o f In d ia as China ; th ey to o k their opportunity, V
and the feventh o f pme 16 6 0 , appear’d with a F leet o f th irty Sail before the
F ort of M acajfar. The Kmg thinking himfelf oblig’d to m ake defence againft
io potent an Enemy, endeavour’d to fuftain the brunt o f the Hollander w ith
the Portugat Ships in the R o a d ; but the H ollander dividing their F leet, p art
of them fought the Portugal, the other h alf batter’d the Royal Fortrefs fo
lunoully, that they carry’d it in a fhort time. Which fo terrifi’d the King
that he commanded the Portugals not to fire any m ore fo r fear o f farther pro­
voking his Enemies. The Prince Pktinfaloa was flain in th e fight, which was
a great Iofs to the King o f M acajfar , who was become fo r m id a b le ^ hik neigh­
bours by the good Conduct o f that Minifter. As for the H o lla n ders they took
burnt and funk all the Portugal Veffels, and fufficiently re-im b u rs’d themfelves
tor tneir China Expences.
The thirteenth o f June the K in g o f M a c a jfa r , w h o fe nam e was Sumbaco,
virnnMU|! another Tower, whence he beheld the fight en-
C o T r t M u‘S ^Vlv5s- P unn§ the truce, he fent ofte o f th e G ran d ees'of his
dkion h i l h e u ^ defire Peace> w hich w as granted, upon con-
f S ,n J h° U d fend an Embaffador to B a ta v ia , expel th e Portugals out o f the
im n a , and not permit his Subiefts to have any m ore to do with them.
the Km § ° £ Macflf ar fent eleven o f the greateft Lords o f his
C o a .t, with a train o f feven hundred m en; the C h ie f o f the Em baffy being
the
 ; -he Prince o f Patinfaloa. The firft thing they did, was to pay two hundred Loaves'
o f Gold to redeem the Royal Fortrefs again ; and then fubmitting to the Con­
ditions which the Dutch Admiral had propos'd, the General o f B atavia fign’d
the Articles, which were punctually oblerv’d. For the Portugals immediately
quitted the Country, fome departing for Siam and Camboya, others for M acon
, ajjj Goa, M acao , formerly one o f the moft famous and richeft Cities o f the
Orient was the principal motive that enclin’d the Hollanders to fend an Em-
bafladour into C hina ; for being the belt ftation which the Portugals had in all,
thofe parts, the Dutch had a defign to win it wholly. N ow , this C ity, lying?
in twenty-two Degrees of Northern Latitude, in a fmall lfland next to the
Province o f Kantcni which is a part o f China , has very much loft its former
lufter. ■ \ - ' r
But this was not all which the fefuits and the Portugal Merchants fuffer’d.
The C h ief o f the Dutch Facftory at M ingy d a , which is but eight Leagues from
this C ity undemanding the bad fuccefs o f the Dutch in China, had a contri­
vance bv himfelf to be reveng’ d. He knew that the fefuites o f Goa and other
places drove a great trade in rough Diamonds, which they fent into Europe,
o r elfe carry’ d along with them when they return’ d ; and that for the more
private carrying'on o f their trade, they were wont to fend one or two o f
their Order that knew the language, in the habit o f a Faquir, which Confifts
o f a Tveers Skin to cover their back-parts, and a Goats Skin to cover the
breaft reaching dowri to the krrees. Thereupon the C hief o f the Faftofy o f
M in e r d a taking his opportunity, and having notice that two o f the fuppos’d
P a m irs were gone to the Mines, to lay out 400000 Pardo’ s in Diamonds, gave
order to two men, which he had fee d for the purpofe, that as foon as the
Fathers had made their purchafe, he fhould give notice to the Officer o f the
Cuttom-Houfe at Bicholi.
Bicholi is a great Town upon the Frontiers o f thofe Lands that part the
Kingdom o f Fifapour from the Territories o f the Portugals ; there being no
other w ay to pafs the River, which encompaffes the lfland where the City

° f The* Fathers' believing that the Cuftomer knew nothing o f their purchafe, /
went into the Boat to go over the R iv e r ; but as foon as they were in, they
were ftriftly fearch’d, and all their Diamonds confifcated.
To return to the King o f M acafttr ; you muft know, that the fefuits once
endeavour’ d to convert h im ; and perhaps they might have brought it to pals,
had they notnegietted one propofal which he made them. For at the lame time
that the fefuits labour’d to bring him to Chriftianity, the Mahumetans us’d all their
endeavours to oblige him to flick to their Law . The King willing to leave his
Idolatry yet not knowing which part to take, commanded the Mahumetans to
/fe n d for tw o or three o f their moft able M o u ld s , or D oftors from M e c c a ; and
the fefuits he order’ d to fend him as many o f the moft learned among them,
that he might be inftruded in both Religions; which they both promis’d to
do But the Mahometans were more diligent then the Chriftians, for in eight
months they fetch’d from Mecca two learned M o u llP s ; whereupon the King
feeing that the fefuits fent no body to him, embrac’d the Mahumetan Law .
True it is, that three years after there came two Portugal fefuits, but then ft
was too late. . _
The King o f Macafar being thus become a Mahumetan, the Prince his Bro­
ther w as’ fo mad at it, that when the M ofqm e, which the King had caus’d to
be built, was finiffi’ d, he got into it one night, and caufing the throats o f two
Pigs to be cur, he all befmear’ d the walls o f the new Mofquee, and the place
which was appointed for the Moulla to perform Divine Service with the Wood;
fo that the King was forc’d to pull down that, and build another. After which
the Prince with fome Idolatrous Lords ftole out o f the Aland, and never face
appear’d at Court,

C H A ft
194- ' T ra v e ls in I ndia . P a r t II.
— ...........■ — --- ---------------------------- --------------------------- ■ ■ ■ . .‘ - - . - r - ..... ---------------------------------------- i ........ ..... — - , ------------------------------ , -------- ----------------

; . , ' , 't
CHAP. XX.
The Author purfues his Travels into the Eaft, and embarks at Min-
grela for Batavia. The danger he was in upon the Sea; and Jjis *
a rriva l in the JJland of Ceylan.

I Departed from Mingrela, a great Town in the Kingdom Of Vifapour, eight

Leagues from Goa, the fourteenth o f A p ril, 16 4 8 , and embark’d in a Dutch
Vefiel bound for Batavia. The Ship had orders to touch at Bokanour, to take
in Rice. Whereupon I went afhore with the Captain, to obtain leave o f the
King to buy Rice. We found him upon the fhore, where be had about a do­
zen Huts fet up, which were cover’d with Palm-leaves. In his own Hut there
was a piece o f Perftan Tapeftry fpread under him, and there we faw five or
fix women, fome fanning him with Peacocks Feathers, others giving him Betle,
others filling him his Pipe o f Tobacco. The molt confiderable pertons o f the
Country were in the other Huts ; and we counted about two hundred men
that w ere upon the Guard, arm’d only with Bows and Arrows. T hey had alfo
tw o Elephants among ’em. • ’Tis very probable, that his Palace was not far
off, and that he only came thither to take the frefh air. There we were pre­
sented with Tan or Palm-wine ; but being new, and not boil’d, it caus’d the
head-ach in all that drank it, infomuch that w e were two days before w e could
recover it. I ask d the reafon, how the Wine came to do us (b much prejudice §
to which they anfver’d me, that it. was the Planting o f Pepper about the Palm -
trees that gave fuch a ftrength to the Wine.
We w ere no fooner got aboard, but a mighty tempeft arofe, wherein the
Ship, men, and goods had all like to have been caft away, being near the fh o rej
but at length, the wind changing, we found our felves by break o f day three
or four Leagues at Sea, having loft all our Anchors; and at length came lafe
to Port in the Haven o f Ponte de Galle, the twelfth o f May.
I found nothing remarkable in that C ity ; there being nothing but the ruins
made by the underminings and Canon-ftiot, when the Hollanders befieg’d it,
and chas’d the Pottugals from, thence. The Company allow’d ground to build
upon, to them that would inhabit there, and land to till 5 and had then rais’d
tw o Bulwarks which commanded the Port. I f they have finifh’d the defign
which they undertook, the. place cannot but be v ery confiderable.
■ T !?e Iholla,2dt!rs> before they took all the places which the Portugal* had
in the Iuand o f Ceylan, did believe that the trade o f this Illand would have
brought them in vaft fums, could they but be foie Matters o f i t ; and perhaps
™ eir coH/e&ures might have been true, had they not broken their words w ith
the King o f Candy, who is the King o f the Country ; but breaking faith w ith
& They loft themftlves in all other places thereabouts,
rh u f * ° ^ f nders had made an agreement with the King o f Candy, that he
mould be alw ays ready with twenty thoufand men, to keep the paiiages that
hinder the Portugals from bringing any fuccours from Colombo, Negombe, M a­
nor, or any other places which they poflefied upon -the Coaft. In con­
sideration w hereof the Hollanders, when they had taken Ponte Galle, were
to restore it to the King o f Candy; which they not performing, the King lent
to know why they did not give him pofleflion o f the T o w n ; to which they
return d anfiver, that they w ere ready to do it, provided he would defray the
•expences o f the war. But they knew, that i f he had had three Kingdoms more,
nc 1 as is own,he could never havepayd fo great a fum. I muft confefs indeed the
oui tiy is very poor, for I do not believe that the King ever law fifty'thou-
Aen<V together ip his life 5 his trade being all in Cinnamon and Elephants,
i-hp l-H/i *pmnamonJ he has no profit o f it fince the Portugals coming into
' And for h.is E lePhants, he makes but little o f them 5 for th ey
o r W r ‘L 1° Ve ,".v e , or Ex 'n a y e a r ; but they are more efteem’d than any
ry Elephants, as being the molt couragious in war. Ohe thing I
w ill
 ,, , ------------ ----------— ' ...... .. ■■ ir H ^ ' . r . - - . . . - .I- , ............ - ' - ■ I I , .

Book II. Travels in I n d ia .

will tell you hardly to be believ’d, but that which is a certain truth, which
is that when any other King or Raja has one o f thefe Elephants o f Ceylan%
i f they bring him among any other breed in any other place whatever, fo foon
as the other Elephants behold the Ceylan Elephants, by an inftinft o f na­
ture they dq him reverence, laying their trunks upon the ground, and raifing
Them up again.
The King o f Achen, with whom the Hollanders alfo broke their word, had
more opportunity to be reveng’d upon them then the King o f Canty. For he
deni’d them the transportation o f Pepper out o f his Country, without which
their trade was worth little. His Pepper being that which is moft coveted by
(he Faff. So that they were forc’ d to make a cofhpofition with him". The King
o f A c hens Embaffador coming to B atavia , was ftrangely furpriz’d to fee wo­
men fitting at the Table ; but much more, when after' a health drank to the
Queen o f Achen, the General o f B atavia commanded his Wife to go and kifis
the Embaffador. N or was the King behind hand with the Dutch Emballador
another way ; whom the King beholding in a languifhing diftemper,. ask’d him
whether he had never any familiarity with any o f the Natives. Y es, replied
the Embaffador} however I left her to marry in my own Country. Upon that
the King commanded three o f his Phyficians to cure him in fifteen days, upon
the forfeiture o f their lives. Thereupon they gave him a certain potion every
morning, and a little Pill at night; and at the end o f nine days he took a great
Vomit. Every body thought he would have dy’d with the working o f it 5 but
at length it brought up a ftopple o f courfe hair, as big as a nut; after which
he presently recover’d. At his departure the King gave him a Flint about the.
bignefs o f a Goofe Eg g , with veins o f Gold iti it, like the veins o f a mans
hand, as the Gold grows in that Country.
• .. . • • . , *
- ■ ■ ______ _____ _____________ _________ •— _____________ ..............T *

C H A P . x x r.

Thi Authors departure from Ceylan, and his arrival at Batavia.

H E tw enty-fifth o f May we let fail from Ponte Galle. T h e fecond o f

T fane we pafs’d the Lin e . The fixth we faw the Ifland call’d Nazacds.
Th e feventeenth we difcover’d the Coaft o f Sumatra, the eighteenth the Ifland
o f Ingamina, and the nineteenth the Ifland o f Fortune. The twentieth we were
) in ken oF certain little Ifl&ndsx <ind the Go&ft o f $ srriong w hich Ifl&nds
/ there are three call’d the Iflands o f the Prince. Th e one arid twentieth we d if-
Cover'd Bantamt and the two and tw entieth we anchor’d in the Road o f Baty

ta There are two C o uncils in Batavia, the C o uncil o f the F o rt, where the G e­
neral prefides, and w here a ll the affairs o f the Com pany are manag’d. T h e other
w hich is held in a Houfe in the C it y , and .relates to the C iv il Governm ent, and
decides the petty differences afhOng the C itizen s.
A ll the kindnefs I had fhew ’n me here, was to be profecuted b y the C ity
C o u n c il for being fufpefted to have bought a parcel o f Diam onds for M oun-
fie u r Conftant, m y very good Friend , and Prefident o f the Dutco Factory at.
Gomron j but when they could m ake nothing o f it, they ceas'd th eir fuit, a*
fham 'd o f what they had done,
 CHAP. X X II.
i
The Author goes to 1vijit the Ktng of Bantam, and relates fevera j
Adventures npoto that occafan. (

B Eing Co III treated in B a ta v ia , I refolv’d to vifit the King o f Bantam { to

which purpole I took m y own Brother along w ith.m e, becaufe he Ipoke
the Language call’d M alay e , which in the Eaft is as univerlal as L atin among
us. Being arriv’d at Bantam in a fmall Bark; which we 'hir’d for our felves ;
w e went firft and vifited the Englijh Prefident, who kindly entertain’d and
lodg’d us. . .
The next day I fent m y Brother to the Palace, to know when it would be
feafonable for me to come and kils the Kings Hands. When the King law him
( f o r he was well known to h im ) he would not fuffer him to ;return, but fent
others to fetch me, and to tell me withall, that i f I had any rare Jew els, I
fhould do him a kindnels to bring them along with me.
When I law my Brother return’d not with the perfons which the King fent;
I was almoft in the mind not to have gone $ remerribring how the King o f A -
chen had ferv’d the Sieur Renaud. For the French having let up an Eaft India,
Company, fent away four Vefiels, three great ones, and one o f eight Guns,
for the fervice o f the Company. Their Voyage was the thorteft that ever w as
Beard o f ; arriving at Bantam in lels than four months. The King alfo cour-
teoully receiv’ d them , and let them have as much Pepper as they defir’d ,
and cheaper by twenty in the hundred then he fold it to the Hollanders. But
th r -F re n d rn o t coming only fo r Pepper, fent away their fmall Ship with the
greateft part o f their Money to M acajfar , to try the M arket for Cloves, Nut­
megs, and Mace.
_ The French being fo foon difpatch’d at Bantam , had not patience to ftay
till the return o f the fmall VeiTel which they had fent to M acajfar ■ but to
pals the tim e , muft needs run over to B a t a v ia , being not above fourteen
Leagues o ff; fo that you may be at B atavia from Bantam in a tide with a
good wind. When they came to an Anchor, the General o f the French Fleet
lent to Complement the General o f B atavia , who fail’d not te anfwer his ci­
vility, and invited the Admiral alhore. M oreover he fent to thofe that ftay’d
aboard, great ftore o f excellent chear, and a good quantity o f Spanifh and
Rhenijh Wine, with particular order to them that carry’d it, to make the French
drunk. His_ order was fo well follow’d , that ’ twas eafie to fet the Ships on \
fire, according to the private inftrudtions which they had. So foon as the flame v
was difcover’d from the Generals window, which overlook’d all the Road, there
was a wonderful pretended aftonifhment among the Dutch. But the French Ad­
miral too truly conjecturing the ground and Authors o f the treachery, behold­
ing the company with an undaunted cou rage; Gome, come, cry’d he, lets drink
o n ; they that let the Ships a-fire ftiall pay for’ em. However the French Ships
were all burnt, though the men w ere a ll lav’d in Boats which w ere forth-
With lent to their relief. A fter that, the General o f B atavia made them great
which they refus’d, and return’d to Batavia , in expectation o f their fmall
Velfel. When it return’d, they could find out no better w ay then to fell Ship,
and goods, and all to the E nglijh , and to lhare the M oney among thcmfelvcs,
e v e ry o n e according to their condition.
But the trick which they put upon the Englijh w as far more bloody. The
Enghjh w ere the firft that found out the danger o f failing from Surat, M a jli-
Vff ad > or any other diftant p a rts, to fapon without touching by the w ay .
vvnereupon they thought it convenient to build a F ort in the Ifland o f F o r - '
moja, w licit not only lav d the lols o f feveral Vefiels, but alfo brought them
in gr Cat gain. The Hollanders mad that the Englijh were polfels’d o f fuch an
advantageous fcituation, being the only place in all the Ifland where Vefiels
coiud ride in lafety ; and finding they could not carry it by force, bethought
th em -
 themfelves o f a Stratagem ; to which purpofe they Pent away two Ships, where-f
in they ftor’d the beft o f their Souldiers, who pretending they had been in a
florin in Sea, put into the Harbour o f Formofa, with fome o f their Malts by
the board, their Sails Scatter’d, and their Seamen feemingly fick. The Englijh.
epmpaftionating their naileries, which was only in outward appearance, invited
the chief o f them to come afhore to refrelh them felves; which they were
very ready to do, carrying as many men with them as poffibly they could
under pretence o f ficknefs. While the chief o f them were at Dinner with
the chief o f the Englijh , they all ply’d their C u p s; and when the Dutch law
the Englijh had drunk hard enough, taking their opportunity, they pickt a quar­
rel w ith the Commander o f the Fort, and drawing their Swords, which they
had hidden under their Coats for that purpofe, they eafily furpriz’ d. and cut
all the throats o f the Soldiers in the G arrifon; and being thus Matters o f the
F o rt, they kept it from that time till they w ere routed out by the Chmefes.
N ow for the trick that the King o f Acken ferv’d the Sieur Renattd ; he ha­
ving got a good Effete by, Jew els, arriv’d at length at Achen, and as it is the
cultom for the Merchants to {hew the King what Jew els they have, the King
had no fooner caft his eye upon four Rings which the Sieur Remind fliew’d
him but he bid him fifteen thoufand Crowns for them ; but Remand would
n o t 5bate o f eighteen thoufand. Now becaufe they could not agree, the Sieur
Renaud carry’d them awav with him, which very much dilpleas’d the King }
however he fent for him the next day. Whereupon Renaud returning to him,
the King paid him his eighteen thoufand C ro w n s; but he was never feen after
that, and it is thought he was fecretly murther’d in the Palace;.
This ttory came to my remembrance, when I found my Brother did not
come along with thole that were lent-to fetch me. However I refolv’d to go,
taking with me 1 2 or 13 0 0 0 Roupies worth o f Jew els ; the greateft part be­
ing in Rofe Diamond Rings, fome confiding o f feven," fome o f nine, and fome
o f eleven Stones ; with fome fmall Bracelets o f Diamonds and Rubies. I found
the King with three o f his Captains and my Brother fitting together, after the
manner o f the Eafiywith five great Plates o f Rice before them o f divers colours. For
their drink they had Spm jh Wine, ftrong Waters, and feveral forts o f Sherbets. Af­
ter i had complemented the King, and prefented him with a Diamond Ring,
a blew Saphir Ring and a little Bracelet o f Diamonds, Rubies, and blew Sa-
phirs he commanded me to ,fit down, and order’d me a glafs o f ltrong Wa­
ter to whet m y appetite. The glafs held a quarter o f a pint, and therefore I
refus’ d it, which the King very much wonder’d a t ; but being told by m y Bro­
ther, that I never drank any ftrong Water, he order’d me prefently a glafs o f
Scick
/ A fter that he rofe up, and feated himfelf in a Chair, the Elbows whereof
were guilded. His feet and legs were bare, having a Perjtan Carpet o f Gold
and Silk to tread upon. He was clad with a piece o f Calicut, part w hereof
cover’d his body from his wafte to his knees, the reft being wound about his
back and fhoulders like a Scarf. Inftead o f Shoes he had a pair o f Sandals,
that flood by the Chair fide, the ftraps w hereof were embroider d with Gold
and fmall Pearl. About his head he had a thing like a Handkerchief, with three
Corners, bound about his head like a Fillet. His hair alfo, which was very
long, was twifted and ty’d together over his head. Two perfons flood behind
him with great Fans o f long Peacock Feathers, the handles w hereof were
five or fix foot in length. Upon his right hand flood an old black woman, holding
in her hand a little Mortar and & Peftle o f Gold, to beat his Betle in ; where*--
w ith he mix’d the Kernel o f the N ut o f Araque, and Seed Pearl
d ilfo lvU When it was all beaten together, the old woman gave it the King
over his Shoulders, who opening his mouth, the old woman fed him as our
women feed their Children. For the King Kid chaw’d lo much Betle, and ta­
ken fo much Tobacco, that his teeth, were all fall’n out o f his head.
The King o f Bantam's Palace was never built by any curious Architeo:. It is
a fquare place, encompafs’d with a great many Pillars^ varniih’d over with fe­
veral forts o f colours, againft which the King leans when he fits down. At the
four Corners there are four great Pillars fet in the Earth, at forty foot diftancec
the
* . •—
 the one from the o th e r, lin’ d with a Mat made o f the Rhind o f a certain Tree,'
fo thin that it looks like a piece o f Linnen, which neither Fleas nor Punies will,
come near. The R o o f was cover'd with Coco-Branches. N ot far o ff under
another R o o f fupported with four great Pillars, he had fixteen Elephants, the
nobleft o f all thofe that are in the Kings fervice : for he has a far greater num ­
ber train’ d up for war, that are not afraid .o f wild-fire. For his Guard he m ight
have about two thoufand men,, that w ere ’drawn up in Companies under the
(hade o f the next Trees. They are good Souldiers as well by Sea as by Land ;
great Mahometans, and hand not at all in fear o f death. B is Haram, or the
Womens Apartment, was certainly a very fmall place. For when he had view'd
what I brought him, he lent for two old women, to whom he gave fome o f the
jew els, to go and {hew them to his Wives. The tw o women return’d back through
a little pitiful door 3 the enclofure being nothing but a kind o f Wall made up o f
Earth and Cow-dung mix’d together. Whatever he fent to the Women, they
never return’d any thing again. Which made me believe they Would bear a
good price ; and indeed whatever I fold to him, I fold to good profit, and had
m y Money well paid me. After this we took our leaves 3 but the K in ? oblig’d
as to come next day in the evening, becaufe he had a defire to fhew us a
Tarky D agger, the B aft whereof, being thin o f Diamonds, he had a mind to
enrich with more Stones. Coming to the Englijh Houle with our Money they
wonder’d that the King had laid out twenty thoufand Roupies, telling me rh el
believ'd it was the belt part o f his treafure. S Y
The next day my Brother and I went to wait upon him at the appointed
hour, and w e found him-fitting in the fame place where he fate before T h ere
was a Motdla then read to him, who feem’d to interpret to him fomething o f
the Alcoran in the Arabick. Language. The LecTure being ended, they both
rofe and went to prayers; which being concluded, the King fent for the D ag­
g er and the Haft which was o f Gold. The top o f the Handle was already
fet with Diamonds, and upon the upper part o f the crofs Bar was cut in Fa­
cets, which could not be lefs worth than fifteen or fixteen thoufand C row n s1
T he King told me, it was prefented to him by the Queen o f Borneo and that
it was cut at Goa ; but that he put a far higher value upon it than I efteem’d
it to be worth. The D agger, as well as the Sheath was full o f Beazils o r
Collets, in very good o rd e r; but the King had neither Diamond, R uby 'n o r
any other Stone to fet in the Collets j. and therefore defir’d me to help him
to fome that might come at an eafie rate. I told him it was impoffible to
find Stones that would fit the B eazils; and therefore that it was better when he
had got Stones enough, to fix other Beazils according to the proportion o f the
t tnIieS u
T ? Wt ‘Ch PurP,ofc he, was firft t0 range all his Stones in W a x ; which
I Ihew d him how to do at the fame tim e ; but that was above his skill. And \
therefore do what I could to excule my fe lf to the contrary, he would needs v
obhge me to c a rry the D agger to Batavia; whereupon I took my leave o f
the King, and departed,

1 _____ _________ _______ O

chap;
 C H A P . X X III.

Ehe Authors return to Batavia. His re-vifiting the King of Ban-

% tara. And a relation of feyeral Extravagancies of certain fa­
quirs in . their return from Mecca.

{ A Bout elev’ ri a Clock at night w e embark'd for B atavia; for the

night winds blowing from the Land, are the only winds to ferve our
turn ± fo that w e were at Batavia between ten and elev’n the next morning.
T here I ftay’d twenty days for the King o f Bantam’s fake, to make him believe
I had fought for that which I knew was impoffible to to be found. I had nothing
to do all the while, for in Batavia there is no other recreation than gaming
and drinking, which was none o f my bufineft. At that time the Sieur Cant
dy’d, one o f the Indian Counfellors, who was fumptuoufly buri’d for his good
lervices done to the Company j but the people complain’d heavily o f the ifl-
juftice which he had done as well to the Souldiers as Mariners.
Having ftay’d twenty days at Bantam, I refolv’d to go and return the King
o f Bantam his D agger again ; for it was impoffible to meet witfi Stones to fit
his Beazils. However I took along with me fbme other Stones which he
had not feen. Coming to Bantam, the King caus’d us to be lodg’d in one o f
his own Houfes in the C ity, which was made o f Bamboo’s. Thither in lefs
then a quarter o f an hour, the King fent us fome Pateches, or fweet Water-
Melons, red within like Scarlet. We had alfo Mango’s, and a certain large
Fruit call’d Pompone, red alfo within, the meat o f it being foft and fpungy, but
o f an excellent tafte. Having ftay’ d our ftontachs, w e went to wait upon the
K ing, whom we found in the fame place, with his old Mortar-bearer, who
every foot fed him with Betle with her fingers., There were fitting about the
Hall five or fix o f his Captains, viewing a certain parcel o f Fire-works as G ra-
nado’s, Rochets, and other devices to run upon the w ate r, which the Cbi­
nefes had brought ; who are the moft exquifite at thofe fports o f any people
In the world. When the King was at leifure, I return’d him his D agger, tel­
ling him, that Batavia was no place to meet with Stones; and that fuch as
w ere to be found, w ere valu’d at double the price they were w o rth ; and that
there was no place where he could fit himfelf, but at Golconda, Goa, or the
Diamond Mines. Thereupon the old woman took the D agger, and carry’d it in­
to his Haram ; nor did the King fpeak a word more about it. iWter that I
> fhew ’d him what other Stones I had brought, a parcel w hereof I fold him
/ to good p ro fit; the King ordering us to come the next day for payment,
t h e next day about fix a Clock in the morning, my -Brother and I, and a
Butch Chirurgion, were going along a narrow way, between a River on the
one hand, and the Pales o f a great Garden on the other. Behind the Pales a
• Rafcally Bantamois had hid him felf; one o f thofe that was newly come from
Mecca, and was upon the defign o f Mocftia; that is, in their Language, when
the Rafcaiity o f the Mah timetans return from Mecca, they prefently take their
Cue in their hands, which is a kind o f Poniard, the Blade’ w hereof is half
poyfon’d ; with which they run through the ftreets, and kill all thofe which
are not o f the Mahometan L aw , till they be kill’d themfelves. Thefe Furies
think that in fo doing they do God and Mahomet good ferv ice, and fhall be
lav’d thereby. I f any o f thefe madmen be kill’d, the Rabble o f Mahometans
buries them as Saints, and every one contributes to make them a fair Tomb.
Sometim es you fhall have an idle Rogue, in the Habit o f a Dervich, that will
build him a Hut near the Tomb, which he undertakes to look to, and ftrew
with Flowers. And as his Alms increafe, he adds fome other ornament to it.
For the fairer and better ftt out the Tomb is, the more devoutly it is w or-
Ihip’d, and the more Alms it brings in. I remember in the year 16 4 2 , that
at Souali, which is the Port o f Surat, it happen’d that a VefTel o f the great
Moguls return’d from Mecca, with a great number o f Faquirs or Dervichs. . For
-' ever f '
200 T ra vels in I n d ia . ______ P a r t . I I .
every year the King fends two Veifels to carry and bring back the
Pilgrims, who have their palfage free. And when thefe Veffels are to go, the
Faquirs come from all parts o f India to embark. Thefe Velfels are Jad’n with
very good Commodities, which are fold at Mecca, and the profit is diftributed
among the poor Pilgrims. But the- principal is brought back for the next year,
amounting to fix hundred thouland Roupies at kafir. 'Tis an ill Market when' *
they do not gain 30 or 40 per Cent, by their Commodities 5 nay there areTome
that produce Cent, per Cent, befides, that the principal perfons o f the Moguls
Haram, and other particular perfons, fend very large gifts to Mecca.
One o f thefe Faquirs returning from Mecca in the year 16 4 2 , and being
landed at Souali, had no fooner faid his prayers, but he took his Dagger, and
ran among feveral Dutch Mariners that were unlading goods upon the fhore,
and before they were aware this mad Faquir "had wounded feventeen o f them,
o f which thirteen dy’d. The Canjare which he had in his hand, was a kind o f
Dagger, the Blade w hereof toward the Handle was three fingers broad; and
becaufe it is a very dangerous weapon, I have here given you the figure o f it,

V ■ ^ ^

\ OO 7
\ S
\ 0 l
\ I ' i- .
\ 0°^ B
\\ 0^00 £/ <
i V /
\ . &0® I ✓
\ 0^ jr
\ o°o /
\ °0 /
\ 00 f *
^ fto i
 •r. ■ . ___-—»■' 1— — ——' -- - ~ —-
Bookm T ravels in I ndia . ' 201
.. . . • . • • • _______ _ > :--- - ■ • ■> -•--------- • • •. • - ■ - ;

. At length the Sentinel that ftood at the entry o f the Tent where the C over-
nour and Merchants were, (hot him through the body, fo that he fell down
dead. Immediately all the other Faquirs and Mahumetans that were upon the
place took up the body and buried i t : and at the end o f fifteen days they put
him up a fair Monument. Every year the Enghjh and Hollanders pull it down $
bvf when they are gone, the Faquirs let it up again, and plant Banners over
it; nay fome there are that perform their devotions to it.
But to return to the Bantam Faquir. That Villain lying, as I laid, behind the
Pales, as my Brother and I, and the Dutch Chirurgeon came toward him, all
three a-breaft, thruft his Pike between the Pales, thinking to have ftab’d it into
one o f pur breafts. The Dutch man being next the R iver, and fomewhat be­
fore the reft, the head o f his. Pike ran into his Breeches ; whereupon w e both
laid hold o f the Staff. But my Brother being next the Pales, prelently Jeap’d
o v e r , and ran the Faqu ir thorough. Whereupon feveral Chinefes, and other
Id o laters, came and gave my Brother thanks for killing him. After that
w e waited upon the King, and told him what m y Brother had done; who
was fo far from being difpleas’d, that he gave my Brother a Girdle. For the
K in g and his Governours are glad when thole Rogues areilain, knowing them
to be Defpetado’ s, not fit to live.
The next day, coming to take my leave o f the Englijh Prefident, he fhew’d
me tw o firings o f .Diamonds, and two Services o f Silver, which came from
England. He would have fold them all, but I only bought one o f the firings o f
Diamonds, the other being foul ;,and for the Silver, I would have bought it3
had they coin’d Silver in B atavia , as they were wont to do. Formerly the H ol­
landers coin’ d Reals, H alf-Reals, and Quarter-Reals, bearing on the one fide
the ftamp o f a Ship, on the other V , 0 , C , like a Character, as in the Figure,
fignifying in Dutch , Vor O sl Indian Compagnie3 for the Eaft Indian Company.
Which they did for the fake o f the Chinefes, who loving Silver better than
Gold, earn’d away all the Silver that was coin’d at B atavia , at good rates,
But length they left it off, finding fo few people that made ufe o f Silver.
202 ’ T r a v e l s 111 I ndia. Petit, i t
.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . l II II | T 1 ■ ■ ■ ■' "If , i , im ' '

CHAP. XXIV.
O f the War of the Hollanders with the Emperor of Java,
f' (

H
Aving taken my leave o f the Engiijh Prefident, I return’ d to Batavia *
where having little to do, I refolv’d to give a viiit to A e King o f fapar,
otherwile call’d the Emperor o f fava. This King was formerly King o f all the
Ifland, till the King o f Bam am, tv ho was only Governour o f a Province, rebell’d
againft him 5 the Hollanders being made by the divifions o f thole two Princes.
For when the King o f fapar befieg’d Batavia, the King o f Bantam reliev’ d the
Hollanders ; and when they were attack’d by the King o f Bantam, the King o f
fapar came to their alfiftance. And when thofe tw o Kings w ere together by
the ears, the Hollanders always aided the weakeft.
The King o f fapar keeps his Court in a C ity o f the fame name, diftant from
Batavia fome thirty Leagues. Y 011 may coaft along the fhore to it by Sea j
but the C ity hands above eight Leagues up in the Land. From the C ity there
is a fine Walk to the Sea, where there is a handfome Port, and fairer Houles
than any in the City. And the King would live there i f he thought it lafe.
The day before I departed, I went to take my leave o f one o f the Indian
Counfellors, and telling him that I was going to wait upon the King o f fapar, he
Hood amaz’d, in regard the King and the Hollanders were mortal Enemies j o f
which he gave me this account: The deceas’d King, Father to the King that
now reigns, fince the Hollanders built their Fort o f Batavia would never have
any peace with them. And though that during the war the Hollanders took
ten o f his Subjects, for one o f theirs, and offer’d ten for one in exchange, y e t
he would never exchange one upon any condition whatfoever, and charg’d his
Son upon his death-bed never to releafe one. This obftinacy very much trou­
bl’d the Dutch General, and all the reft in Batavia, and oblig’d them to con-
fult upon ways how to right themfelves N ow it is the cuftom when a M a ­
hometan King dyes, that his SuccelTor lends certain great Lords o f his Court
to Mecca with Prefents, as well to engage them to pray for the Soul o f the
deceas’d ; as alfo to give thanks to God and Mahomet for the coming o f a new
King to the Throne without any impediment; and to pray for the blefltng o f
V id ory over all his Enemies. But the new King and his Council w ere at a
Jofs how to accomplilh this Voyage ; for firft the K ing had n.one but little
Vefiels, that were wont only to fail along by the. fhore, by reafon o f the in­
experience o f his Seamen; and in the fecond place the Dutch were always p ly - ,
ing to and fro about the mouths o f his Havens, to furprize; his Sub;e<fts if they \
ftirr’d forth. For the fafety therefore o f his Pilgrim?, tjte King at Jaft con­
cludes upon making an agreement with the Engiijh. For which reafon he dis­
patches aw ay an Envoy to Bantam, to the Engiijh Prefident and his Council, w ho
promis’d, to lend him the biggeft Vefiel and the belt mounted which the C om ­
pany had in the Indies. In lieu w hereof the Engiijh were to pay.but h alf Cuftoms
lor ever, for all Commodities exported or imported out o f his Country. Which
. Treaty being ratifi’d, the Englijlo furnilh’d him with three ftout V d lels, Mann’d
and Gunn’d beyond an ordinary rate. Thereupon nine o f the principal Lords
o f the Court, and moft o f the Blood Royal, with a Train o f a hundred \ erfons,
embark’d themfelves in the great Vefiel. But all thefe preparations could not
be carri’d fo privately, but that the Dutch had intelligence o f it by their Spies.
Thereupon the General o f the Dutch makes ready three Ships, and lying juft
in the ftreight o f Bantams mouth ; fo loon as the E.-glijh came up, ( for they had
no ocher w ay ) let fly at them fo roundly, that the Er.gljh fearing left their
Vefiels would be funk, ftruck S a il; which the fava Lords feeing, call’d the Eng-
j j j Traytors, and drawing their poyfon’d Daggers, cry’d a Mocca upon the Eng-
li/h, killing a great number o f them before they had time to put themfelves
into a pofture o f defence. And perhaps there would not one o f them have elcap’ d,
had not the Hollanders come aboard as they did. Some o f the fava Lords,and about
tw enty
 twenty o f their Attendants, would take no quarter ; To that the Hollanders were
forc’d to fight for’ t, and at la ft: they got the better, with the lofs o f foven or
eight men. The EngUJb Vefiel being carri’d into B atavia , the General very ci­
villy lent both the Prifoners and the Vefiel home again ; withal! giving notice
to the King, that he was ready to make an exchange o f Prifoners with him.
, Bnt the King would not fo much as Hearken to any fuch propofition 5 returning
for anfwer, that though the Hollanders had three times as many o f his Sub­
jects, he would not releafe fo much as one Hollander. So that the poor Dutch
w ere kept Haves in ja v a , and the javknners dy’d miferable in B a ta v ia .-
As for the javanners, they are good Souldiers. And it is reported, that while
B a ta v ia was befieg’d by the King o f Bantam in the year 16 5 9 , a Dutch Soul-
dier lying in Ambufcade in a Marfb, a Javanner , little dreaming that any body
had been there, came to the fame place to difcover the Enemy ; and was by
the Dutch man thruft with his Pike into his Body. Upon which the "javanner find­
ing himfelf wounded, did not itrive to pull the Pike out o f the body, but thruft
him felf farther upon it, to the end he might come at his Enemy, whom he
ftab’d .to the heart, as foon as he got within his reach.

C H A P. XXV.
The Author buries his Brother; and is again quarrel'd withall by
by the General and his Council.

Hile I flay’d at Eat a via , my Brother dy’d ; and it was pretty to con-
W fider what the Dutch made me pay for his Funeral. The firft expence
is for the Fees o f thofe that beg leave for the Corps to be buri’d ;
o f whom the more there are, the more honourable the Funeral is efteemd.
I lent fix, and paid them to my wonder for that feventy-two Crowns. The fee
for the Pall is a right that belongs to the poor,for which I paid two Crowns. There
Was a Vefiel o f Spanijh Y/ine drank out, that coft me two hundred Piafters. I
gave twenty-fix more for three WefiphaUa Hams, and fome Neats-tongttes, and
twenty-two for Bak’ d Meats. To the Bearers I gave twenty Crowns, and fix-
teen for a place in the Church-yard, for they ask’d me a hundred to bury
him in the Church. And all thefe are Fee’ s demanded. So that my Brothers
Funeral coft me twelve hundred and twenty three Livres o f French M o-

/ Being thus put by the two Voyages which I intended to japan and Sumatra t
I was advis’d to lay out my Money in Requenings or Debentures o f the Servants
o f the H olland Com pany; which they that have no mind to return into their
own Country, as being foded in the Indies, will fell at an eafie rate ; infomuch,
that for fixty or feventy you may buy a hundred Piafters ; the A ft and Ac­
quittance o f the Seller being made dnd regifter’d by thePublick Notary. There­
upon I bought o f one o f the publick Notaries, who had Bills in his hands, to
the value of about eleven thoufand Guelders, at fourfcore and two for the hun­
dred. After that, I bought b y means#o f the Advocate o f the T reafu ry, fix
thoufand 'Guelders more, at feventy-nine for the hundred. But fome few days
after, meeting with the fame Advocate again, he pafs’d a Complement upon
m e, and told me, he was very much troubl’d for thofe that had bought D e ­
bentures, in regard that the General and the Council had commanded him to
recall all Debentures that had been fo ld ; for they had confider’d , how fad a
thing it would be, for the potir men to lofe fo much o f their Salaries. I an-
fwer’ d him, that for my part I was willing to return mine, provided I might
have m y M oney again. About fix orfeven hours after, I was font for by the
General and his Council. When I came there, they ask’d me why I had not re­
turn’d the Debentures, which I had bought, to the Advocate, who had demand--
ed them by their order. I anfwerd them, that they were at Bantam, whither
* Dd 2 I had ’
 204 '
I n d ia . Travels in PartII.
--------------------— --------------- — 1
*— -------------------------- • a ~ ~ ' ‘ “ " ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------

I had fent them in order to m y paflage home ; in regard that the E

fident had offer'd me a convenience to go along with him. The Council an-
fwer’d me, that the Dutch Ships were as good as the Englijh , and v e ry cour-
teoufly affur’ d me, they would give order for a Cabin to my felf in the Vice-
Admiral. But withall they-told me, I mull deliver up my Debentures before I
ftirr’d 5 a(Turing me, that they would give me a Bill to be re-imburs’d my M o­
ney by the Company in Holland. I thought it very hard, for I knew not how
to truft ’e m ; but feeing the Merchants, Com m anders, and all other perfons
clapt up, and their Papers taken from them by force, that had bought D e ­
bentures } I thought it the bed w ay to deliver mine, and (land to their cour-
tefie. I often prels’d the General and the Council for my Bill, but after- ma­
ny delays the General afcertain’d me, that m y Bill fhould be in Holland as foon as
I. Thereupon defiring the Vice-Admiral and fome others to be m y Wirneffes o f
what the General promis’d, I took my leave o f him, very much repenting my
going to B a tavia.

C H A P . X X V I.

The Author embarks in a Dutch VejJ'el, to return into Europe;

H E next day I went aboard the Vice-Admiral, and the third day after w e
T fet fail, and as foon as we were out o f the Streight, w e difcover’d the
Iflands o f the Prince. From thence being in the Altitude°of the Coco Iflands, w e
/beat about two days to difcover them ; but all to no purpofe, thereupon we
made a ire d ly for the Caps of good Hope.
The fourty-fifth day after our departure from B a t a v ia , our Vice-Admiral
negleded to put out his Lights ; believing all the Fleet had been before at the
Cape i fo that it happen’d that one o f the Fleet being behind, and not carry­
ing any Lights out neither, it being a dark night, fell foul upon us, which put
every man to his prayers, all people believing the Vefiel had been loft 5 and
indeed had (he not been a found ftanch Ship ( for the Provinces w ere fo ac­
counted ) (he could never have endur’d fo terrible a (hock. At length we clear’d
our (elves, by cutting off the Yards o f the M a efirich t that hung in our C or­
dage.
The fifty-fifth w e came within v ie w o f the Cape o f good H o p e ; but w ere
fore d to keep the Sea,becau(e the waves roll’d fo that w e w ere not able to come
to an Anchor 5 not that the Wind was extream high, but becaule the South-
wind had blown fo long that it had forc’d the W ater to that part. When the 's *‘
Sea grew calm, we came to an Anchor.
But o f all the people that ever I (aw in all m y travels, I never (aw any fo
hideous nor fo brutifh as the Comotihps, o f which I have (poken in m y Perfian
tra v e ls} and thole o f the Cape of good Hope , whom they call Cafres , or H o -
Jentotes. When they (peak, they make a noife with their tongues, like the
breaking o f wind backward j and though they hardly (peak articulately, ye t they
eafijy underftand one another. They cover themfelves with the Skins o f wild
Beafts, which they kill in the Woods ■ in Winter wearing the hairy part inner-
moft, and in Summer outermoft. But there are none but the beft fort among
them who are thus clad, the reft wear nothing but a nafty rag about their privy
he men and the women are lean an d lh o rt; and when they bring forth
a a >-~c old, the Mothers cut out his right Stone ; and prefently give him
Water to drink, and Tobacco to eat. They cut out the right Tefticle, becaufe,
ja y they it makes them fwifter to run. There are fome o f them that will catch a
f ° e"„ , F . inning. They neither know what belongs to Gold nor Silver j and
lor Religion, they have none among them. ^
r Ca^ 4 n1c^or5 f ° ur women came aboard us, and brought us four
} ^ t ric ic s j which were boild for (ome fick people that we had a-
board.
 board. After that they brought great ftore o f Tortoife-Shells, and Oftriches
Eggs, and other Eggs as big as Goofe E g g s ; which though they had no Yolk,
tailed very well. The Birds that lay thefe Eggs are a fort o f Geefe, and lb fat
that they are hardly to be eaten, tailing rather like Fifh than Flelh. The wo­
men feeing our Cook throw away the Guts o f two or three Fowl which he was
vjrefling, took them up, and fqueezing out the Ordure, eat them as they were 5
being hugely pleas’d with,the Aqua Aita which the Captain gave them. N ei­
ther men nor women are afham'd to Ihew their nakednefs, for indeed they are
but a fort o f human Beafts. .
So foon as the Ship arrives, they bring their Beeves to the fhore, with what
other Commodities they have, to barter for ftrong Water and Tobacco, C ry-
ftal orW gat Beads 5 or any fort o f old Iron work. . I f they are not fatisfi’d with
what you offer them, away they f l y ; and then giving a whiffle all their C at-
tel follow ’em ; nor fhall you ever- f e e ’ em again. Some, when they faw ’em-
fly, would fhoot and kill their Cattel ; but after that for fome years they would,
never bring any more. ’Tis a very great convenience for the Veffels that touch
there, to take in frefh Victuals ; and the Hollanders did well to build a Fort
there. It is now a good handfome Town, inhabited by all forts, that,live with
the Hollanders; and all forts o f Grain, which are brought out o f Europe or A fia
■ and fow’d there, come to better perfection there then in other parts. The Coun­
try lies in thirty-five Degrees, and fome few Minutes over, fp that it cannot be
laid that either the heat or feituation o f the Climate makes thefe Cafres Co black.
Being defirous to know the reafon,and w hy they flunk fo terribly, I learnt it from a
G irl that was bred up'in the Fort, who was tak’n from her Mother, as foon as
(he was born, and was white like our women in Eu ro pe ; {he told me, that the
reafon why the Cafres are fo black is, becaufe they rub themfelves with a Greafe
o r Ointment compos’d o f feveral forts o f Drugs ; wherewith fhould they not
anoint themfelves very often, and as foon as they were born, they fhould be­
com e Hydropfical, as the Blacks o f A fric a , and the Abyffins a r e ; or like the.
people o f Saba, that never live above forty years, and are always troubl’d with
o le L eg twice as big as the other. Thefe Cafres, as brutifh as they are; have
y e t fome knowledg o f Simples, which they know to apply to feveral Difeafes j
which the Hollanders have feveral times experienc’d. O f nineteen fick perfons
that we had in our Ship, fifteen were committed to the care o f thefe Cafres,
being troubl’d with Ulcers in their Legs, and old wounds which they had re­
ceiv’ d in the w a rs; and in lefs then fifteen days they were all perfectly cur’d.
E v ery one o f thefe had two Cafres to look after him ; and according to the con­
dition o f the wound or Ulcer, they went and fetch’ d Simples, which they bruis’d
between two Stones, and apply’d to the fore. As for the other four, they were fo
-, far gone with the Pox, that they would not truft the Cafres with them, having
been given over at B a ta v ia , and fo they all dy’ d, between the Cape and St. H e­
lens.
In the year 1 66i , a Gentleman o f Britanny. being at B a tavia, was fo bit by
the Gnats in the night, that his L eg exulcerated prefently in fuch a manner, as
to puzzle all the art and skill o f the Chirurgeons in that Town. When he came-
to the Cape o f good Hope, the Captain o f the Ship fending him afhore,. the Cafres
came about him, and after they had beheld him, they told him i f he would
truft to them they would cure him. The Captain thereupon committed him to
their care, who cur’d him and made him a found man in lefs then fifteen days.
When a Ship comes to an Anchor in the Cape, it is the fafhion for him that
commands the Ship, to give leave to fome part o f the Mariners and Souldiers to
go afhore to refrefh themfelves. The. fickly have firft leave by turns, and go to
the Town, where they are dyeted and lodg’d for {even or eight Sous a day, and
are very well us’d.
It is the cuftoiji o f the Hollanders, when they ftay here, to fend out parties o f
Souldiers upon the difcovery o f the up-land Country, and they that go fartheft
are beft rewarded. With this defign a party o f Souldiers, under the Command
o f a Serjean t, far advanc’d in the C ou n try; and night coming o n , they
made a great fire, as well to keep themfelves from the Lions, as to warm them­
felves,and fb lay down to deep round about it. Being afleep, a Lion came and feiz’d
one
 one of the Souidiers Arms, which the Serjeant perceiving, immediately fhot the
Lion with his Carbine 5 but when he was dead, they had much ado to open the
Lions mouth, to get out the Souidiers Arm. Thus it appears a vulgar error,
to believe that Lions will not come near the fire. As for the Souldier, the C a -
f r e s ' cur’d his Arm in twelve days. There are in the Fort abundance o f Lions
and Tigers Skins 5 among the reft, there was the Skin of a Horfe which the Cc- ■
fr.es had kill’d ; it was white, crofs’d with black ftreaks, fpottedlike a Leopard,
without a Tail. Two or three Leagues from the Hollanders Fort, there was a
Lion found dead, with four Porcupines Quils in his bod}*, the third part where­
o f had pierc’d his flefh. So that it was judg’d, that the Porcupine had kill'd
the Lion. The Skin, with the Quils in it, is kept in the Fort.
A League from the Fort, is a fair Town, that grows bigger and bigger every
day. When the Holland Company arrives there with their Ships, if any Soul­
dier or Mariner will live there,they are very glad o f it. They have as much ground
as they can mannage 5 where they have all forts o f Herbs, and Pulfe, and as
much Rice, and as many Grapes as they can defire. They have alfo young
Oftridges, Beef, Sea-fifh, and fweet wafer. To catch the. Oftridges when they
pleafe, they got their Nells -when they are young, and driving a flake in the
ground, tye the Birds by one Leg to the flake, and when they are old enough
they come and take them out of the Neft, from whence it is impoffible to fly
away.
When the Hollanders began to inhabit the Cape, they took a young G irl from
her Mother, as foon as fhe was born ; fhe is white, only her Mole is a little flat.
A French man got her with Child, and would have marry’d her ; but the Com­
pany were fo far from permitting him, that they took away above a hundred
Livres of the Maids wages from her, to puqilh her for the mifdemeanour which
was fomewhat hard.
There are great numbers of Lions and Tigers, which the Hollanders have a
pretty invention to take ; they fallen a Carbine to a flake, driv’n into the Earth
and lay meat round about the Gun; which meat is faften’d with a fixing to the
Trigger. So that when the Beall (hatches the meat, the firing pulls the Trig­
ger, and the Gun going off, hits the Lion either in the throat or the breaft. &
The Cafrss feed upon a Root like our Skerrets, which they roaft and make
bread of. •Sometimes they grin’d it into flower, and then it tails like a Wal­
nut. For their food they eat the fame Root raw, with raw Fifh 5 with the En­
trails o f Bealls, out o f which they only fqueeze the ordure. As for the bowels
o f the wild Bealls, the women wear them dry’d about their Legs, efpecially
the bowels o f thofe Beads which their Husbands kill, which they look upon as
a kind of Ornament. They alfo feed upon Tortoifes, when they have fo far heat­
ed them at the fire,as to make the Shells come off. They are very expert in darting t
their A ^ a g a yd s ; and thofe that have none, make ufe o f pointed flicks, which
they will lance a great way. With thefe they go down to the Sea-fide' and as
loon as ever they Ipy a Filh near the top of the water, they will not’ fail to
ftrike him.
As for their Birds, which are like pur Ducks, whofe Eggs are without any
Y0IK5 they breed infuch great quantities in the Gountrey, that in a Bay about
eighteen Miles from the Cape, you may knock them on the head with a flick
f he Hollanders once carried a young Cafre to 5the General' at B a ta v ia , who
bred him carefully up, teaching him to underftand the Dutch and Portugal Lan­
guages perfectly well. At length being defirous to return into his Country the
General gave him very good Cloaths,and good Linnen, hoping that he would la v e
lv d among the Hollanders , and bin ferviceable to them in the difcovery o f the
Country; but fo foon as he got home, he flung his Cloaths i’ the Sea, and return’d
^ eati” graW flcfta slK d id fc'tfore, ancCquire for-
j y h- l 'nf. daJ rss 80 a hunting, they go a great number together, and make
fflve, W dlgT hT m,g aRd7 elling> that they fright the very Bealls them-
that theird r r ^ th? ^ T td ^ deftroy them i I have been affur’ d,
that their cries do ternfie the Lions themfelves.
> rhe women arc o f ft hot a conftitution o f Body, .that at the times that their
monthly
 monthly cuftoms arc upon ’em, they happen to make water, and that an Euro­
pean chances to fet his feet upon it, it caufes an immediate'Head-ach and Fea-
ver, which many times turns to the Plague.

0 CHAP. XXVII.
The Holland Fleet arrives at St. Helens. The description of the IJland,

H Aving ftaid two and twenty days at the Cape of good Hope, feeing that the
Wind was favourable, we weigh’d, and fleer'd for St. Helens. When we
w ere under Sail, the Mariners cry’d out, they would deep till they came into
St. Helens Road. For the wind is very conftant, and carries you in fixteen or
eighteen days to the Road o f the Ifland. All the trouble that our Mariners
had,was that fourteen days after our departure from the C a t h e y were often forc’d
to the Top-Maft head, upon difcovery o f the Ifland ; for as foon as you difcover
the Ifland, the Pilot muft take care to fleer to the North-fide o f the Ifland, be-
caule there is no calling Anchor but on that fide, and that very near the Ihore
t o o ; by reafon o f the deepnefs o f the water ; for i f the Anchors come not to
take hold, the current o f the water and the wind carries the Ship quite out o f
the Road, which there is no recovering again, becaule the wind never changes.
So foon as the Ships came to an Anchor, part o f the Seamen were fent alhore
to get wild Hogs, o f which there are great plenty ; and to gather Sorrel, which
grows in great abundance; and indeed they not only fend the Seamen, but all the
Pigs, Sheep, Geefe,Ducks,and Pullets aboard, to feed upon that Sorrel, which pur­
ges them in fuch a manner, that in a few days they became fo fat,that by that time
w e came to Holland they were hardly to be eaten. That Sorrel has the fame
operation upon the men, who boiling their wild Swines flelh,R ice, and Sorrel to­
gether, make thereof a kind o f Potage fo excellent, that it keeps their bodies
open by an inlenfible purgation.
There are two places upon the Coaft o f St. Helens where Ships may come to
an Anchor. But the belt is that where we lay, by reafori that ground is very
good, and for that the water that falls from the Mountain is the belt in the Ifland.
In this part o f the Ifland there is no plain, for the Mountain defcends to the very
Ihore o f the Sea.
It is not fo good anchoring in the other Road ; but there is a very handfome
plain, where you may fow or plant whatever you pleafe. There are great ftore
o f Citrons, and fome Oranges, which the Portegals had formerly planted there.
For that Nation has that vertue, that wherever they come, they make the place
'th e better for thofe that come after them ; whereas the Hollanders endeavour to
deftroy all things wherever they fet footing. I confefs the Commanders are not
o f that humour, but the Sea-men and Souldiers, who cry one to another, w e {hall
never come hither any more, and out o f greedinefs will cut down a whole tree
inftead o f gathering the fruit.
Some days after there arriv’d a Portuguese Veflel from Guiny, full o f Slaves,
which were bound for the Mines o f Peru. Some o f the Hollanders that underftood
the language o f the Negro’s, told ’ em how miferably they would be us’ d, and
thereupon the next night two hundred and fifty o f them threw themfelves into the
Sea. And indeed it is a miferable fla v e ry ; for fometimes after they have min’d in
fome places for fome days together, the Earth being loofe, falls down and kills
four or five hunder’d at a time. Befides, that after they have been mining awhile,
their Faces, their Eyes, and their Skins change colour; which proceeds from the
vapours that arife from thofe concavities; nor could they fubfift in thofe places,
but for the quantity o f ftrong Water which they give both to the men and wo­
men. There are fome that are made free by their Mafters, who labour however
for their living ; but between Saturday night and Munday morning they {pend all
their weeks wages in ftrong Water, which is very dear ; fo that they always live
miferably.
’ Being ready to depart the Ifland o f St. Helens, the Admiral call’d a Council, to
advize which w ay fo fleer. The greateft part were for fleering more to the Weft,'
then
then to the South ; becaufe the feafon for failing was far fpent $ and for that i f we
fleer’d for the W eft Indies, we fhould find the wind more proper to carry us into
Holland. But we had no fooner crofs’d the Line, but we found the wind quite con­
trary to what the Mariners expe&ed; fo that we w ere forc’d to fleer to
the fixty-fourth Degree of Altitude with the Hand, and fo return by the N orth
into Holland. <

C H A P . X X V III.

The Holland Fleet fets Sail from St. Heleris, and frofperoufly ar­
rives in Holland.
H E next day after the Admiral had call’d a Council, w e weigh’d and fet Sail
T about ten a Clock at night. Three days after our departure from St. Helens,
the Seamen were call’d very duly to prayers morning and evening j though all
the time w e flay'd in the rode, they never minded any fuch m atter; which made
me wonder, to find they fhould be more devout when they were out o f danger,
than when they were in jeopardy.
After feveral other days failing, we difcover’d the Coaft o f JJland, and then the
Ifland o f Ferella, where we join’d with the Holland Fleet that flay’d for us. Here
it is that the Commander in chief calls to account all the Mariners for their mifde-
meanours during the whole Voyage.
Our Ship was bound for Zealand; but we were forc’ d to lye out at Sea feven
days before we could get into Flujhing, becaufe the Sand had chang'd its place.
Coming to an Anchor before Flujhing, two o f the Company came aboard to w el­
come us home, and to advife us to lock our Chefts, and put our marks upoii
them j for all Chefts are carry’d into the Eaft India Houle, where when the
owners come for them, they are order’d to op’ n them, left they fhould have any
counterband goods therein. Thereupon I fet a mark upon my Chefts, and went
afhore, after I had giv’n a good charader o f the Captain, and his civility to me
all the Voyage, and thence proceeded by Land to M iddldu.gh.
Four days after I came to Middleburgh, I went to fetch m y Chefts ■, and find­
ing the tw o Directors there, one a Zealander, the other o f Horn, who cam efirft
aboard us ; I produc’d my K eys, and offer’d my Chefts to be open’d. But the Zea­
lander more civil than the Homer, deliver’d me m y K eys again, and taking m y
word, told me I was free fo take away m y goods. And indeed I have always ob-
ferv’d, that the Northern people are always more rude and ungentile than the
Southern.
As for the i 75' ° ° - Florins which the General o f Batavia promis’d fhould b e ,
paid me upon my arrival in Holland, I receiv’d fo many delays and put off’s, that
I was at length forc’ d tty commence a Suit that lafted above tw o years j nor could
I get a publick Notary either at Amfierdam or the Hague, that would make m e
out a Proteft, every one fearing the Directors, who were both Judges and Par­
ties. At length after five years wrangling and jangling, the Director w rote to m y
Brother at Batavia ( for I was then return’d again to the Indies ) that i f I w ould
accept o f 10 0 0 0 Livers, he might receive it for me j which he did, and was
forcd to give them an acquittance for the whole.
This is the return which I made from the Indies in the year 16 4 9 , and the
only time that ever I return’d by S e a ; having perform’d all the reft o f m y
Travels by Land, not counting m y fhort Voyages through the Mediterranean
for any thing. And as for m y firft Travels, I perform’ d them all by Land, from
1 arts through Germany and Hungary, as far as ConfiantinotAe j whither I return’d
again in the year 1669. From Conftantinople I went to Smyrna, thence I fail’d
tor Ligom ; from Ligorn I travel'd by Land to Genoa, thence to Turin, and fo
tO Fans. *

The End,
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THE

I N D E X
TO TH E

Indian Travels.
A Afem, the Kingdom, 187.
Afouf-Kavis Tolicy, 111, Ajjijft
A Bdoul-Coutou-Sha , the pre- Sha-Jehan, ibid.
Cent King of GoJconda,pag.6 5. Afc-Kan, 60. Takes Dultabat, fro,
His Children, 66. His reply to the 61.
Canoneer that would have taken Atek, 44.
o f Aurengzeb’s head, 68. See Mir- Ava, 145.
gimola. Augans, a Strange fort of people,
Abdul Feta, Gelul Eddin Maho- 44.
1 met, 107. Aureflg-abat made a City, 61.
Aceph Ben Ali ta k e s Mafcate Aureng-zeb his cruelty at Cal-
from the Dutch, 145. His wondrous labas, 33,35- kdis dominions, 106.
* Pearl, ibid. His Power, 108. His Ambition and
Agra, the King's Talace there, cra ft: Iff joy ns with his Brother,
48,49. ‘ Morad-Backihe, no, defeats Dara-
Alegamma Motiar of Geylan Sha, ibid, deceives Islornd.and fends
turns Chnflian, and his anfwer to him to Trifon, ibid. He afeends the
the Jefuits, 163. Throne,116. He affronts his Father,
Amadabat, and the Trade there- iao. His Embaffadors affronted by
of, j 7. the King of Periia, 121. His State
Amber, wherefound, 1 51, 152-. ,when he fits upon his Throne, 113.
Ambergreefe, where found, 15 i.
Apes, their antipathy againSt j B„
the Crows, 40. The danger of kil­
ling one, ibid. Hofpitals for them, * Q Agnagar, fee Golconda. pag
48. How fet together by the ears, j J 61.
94. * E® Bans--
1 -r '
 Banarou, 52.
Bannians never kill any living
thing, '37. Their cruelty to them
that do, ibid. Their veneration for
Apes, 39, out-do the Jews, 44.
Bantam the King vifeted by the
Author ; his Entertainment, 196,
197 fSc.
Bargant, 41. The Raja of Bar-
gant entertains the Author.
Baroche, 36.
BegumSaheb, 108, impnfondby
Aurengzeb; depriv'd of her wealth:
her death fulfeffed, 113,114: re-
Chord to favour ; her w it, 121.
Bengala, the Revenue of it, 51.
Bezoar, 153,
Boutan, a Kingdom; the Commo-
' dities thereof 182, 183,^0.
Bramins, a flra ^ e fo ry of one,
172.
Brampour, 31 ; a Tumult there,
and the occafion, ibid.
Broakers Indian, 133.
Buildings publick in India, how
rear'd’ 35.
C,
AbouJ, pag 44.
C Callabas, 33.
Calicuts, where made, 31, 33,40,
43> 52.
Cambava, 36.
Caravafera’j Indian, the raethof
therein, 32.
Cardamoms, where had, 7 3,
Carriages Indian, 27.
Carriers ; the Order and Go-
vernment among them. ' '
Cafte, the figm f cation and kinds,
161,162.
Caitel, how fed in India, 97.*
Chalaour, 42.
Cheats in Indian Commodities,
? 3 2,13 3.
Check of Mecca comes to Gol-
eonda in difguife, 66. Marries the
King's Daughter, 67. Hinders him
from Jiirrendring to Aurengzeb,6 8.
CherafFs-Indian Bankers, %i, fub-
tiler then the Jews, 23.
Chincfes poifon the Dutch Sotil-
deers, 173.
Chites, 40.
Chitpo'ur, ib.
Ctfers Indian, 23.
Cochin Befiegd by the Dutch,*'
88, Taken, 89. Dutch make a mock
King of it, ibid.
Collafar, 33.
Commodities of the Great Mo-
gulV Countrey, 126, &c. and their
price, 1 28, 129,130.
Comoukes, a defeript ion cf the
Teople and Count'rey, 204, &c.
Candcvir, 93.
Corral, where found, 151.
‘ Cottons, where made, 31, 36.
Where whiten'd, 36.
Coulour , the Diamond-Mine,
137,141.
Coins Arabian, r. MoguIV, 2. This
Tributaries, 3. Coins call'd Pagods,
4, 5. Eng'ilh and Dutch, 5, 6. Made
by the King cf Chida and Pera, 6.
By the King c f Ac hen, Kings of
Macafiar, the Celebes, and Cam-
bo) a, 7. By the King of Siam, ib.
By the Kings of Afem, Tipoura,
Arakan and Pegu, 8. Coins of Chi-
na and Tunquin, ib. O f Japon, 9.
Coins Indian, reprefenting the
twelve figns, 10. Coins Indian, 22.
Coins made by the Portugals, 12.
Coins Mufcovian, 13.
Coins European, their value in
India, 21,22. 1
Coinage Indian, 17. What lofs,
what gain by it, ib. Thrown about
at the King's Afcent to the Throne,
107. Currant at the Diamond-
Mines, 141.
Cranganor, 89, promis'd by the
Dutch to Samarin, ib. Dem oliff d,
ib. • \
Crocodiles may be wounded, 5 5.
How they dye, ib.
Cuftoms Indian, 17.
Customs affronted by an Englifli
Captain, 17. Exacted by the Per*
fiansfrom the Englilh, 7 5.
Daca,

D.
D
Aca, pag. 55.
Daman befiegd by Aiireng-
. z'ob, 72.
Dara-Sha his duty to his Father,
108. {Defeated by his Brother, n o .
He flies into Scindi, he fghts a fe-
condBattel with Aurengzeb : He
is betraid by JelTomfeing, x14, then
by Gion-Kan, 115. His death, 116.
Dehly, 45.
De Lan, a Dutch Chirurgeon, lets
the Mogul, his Mother and Wife
Blood,16^.
Dervichs, 4. See FaquirS.
"Diamonds, a difiourfi thereof,
134, The forms of feveral Dia-
monds,y48,149. Vulgar error con-
cermng the fu r chafe of them, 141.
Diamond Miners, their cuFtoms,
138.
Dultabat, 60,61.
Dutch fend an Embaffador to
China, 192. Their revenge upon the
Jefuits, 193.
Dutch break their 'word with
the King of Caudy, 194; with the
King of A (then ; at War with the
King of Java, 202 ,* they quarrel
with the Author.
E.
' | 1Lephants deflroy the Banni-
H tins Idols, pag . 34 ; the Woods
oj Mirda, 43, affrighted; the lofs
of A u re n g Z e b V A rm y, 72 j how
taken, 95,- how tam'd, ib. Their
fury , ib. The difference between
them, 96. Eaten by the Natives, ib.
How taken in CeiJan, ib. The tusks
due to 1the Lord, ib. How the fe-
male receives the male, ib. A re­
mark peculiar to Ceilan Elephants,
ib. Their age, ib. The number kept
by the Great Mogul, and his Ex- T* "TAlabas,pag. 5 2. The Governor
fences, 97; how wafh'd, 103.
Emir-jcmla, 116, 1x8.
Emraulds, tlie vulgar error coil-
cerning them, 114.
Eunuchs, covetcus of Mcnu-
merits, 5.
Exchange Indian, 26, 27.
F.
TA Aquirs- their manner of travel-
X / kmg, Pag- 4*; their Habit and
Arms, ib. The refpeFl given them,
ib. Their Religion, 160 : their "Pe­
nances, 165, Wc. Their extrava-
gancies returning from Mecca.
Feafl; the Great Mogul's grand
FeaFt when he is weigh'd, 122.
G.
S ’ "1Anges, pag. 51, an ordinary
V I River,\b. and bad water, 52.
Gani; fee Coujour.
Gate, what manner of place, 34.
Gehanabad , 45; the Moguls
Palace there, 45, 46,47.
Gehanguir, ninth King of the
Indians. He permits Nourmahal
his Wife to Reign in his Head.
He put out his Eldeft Sons eyes,
111. He prefers his Grandchild to
the Throne, ib. Dies, ib.
Gion-Kan a Traytor; his deaths
1x5,
Goa, the prefent State of it, 74.
Golconda defendd, 61. The Po-
Iicy and Government of the Cityi
64.
Gold, where found, 1 56, t$c. v
Gomron-Road heat excefjlve, hi-
jures the Ships, 90.
Gondicot taken by Mirgimola,
98. Defend'd, ib.
Govaleor, 3 5. The Pnfon for the
Indian Grandees, ib.
Guards, how reliev'd at Gol-
conda, 64.
JHL
Jl I a great Herfin, ib. The cru&
elty of his Phyfitian, ib.
Hameth-Sheck, 107.
*E e% Java*
 Measures Indian, 27. .
I. 1 Mingrela, 75^
A Miracle done by a Brarnin,
Ava, the King thereof, pag. 2,02. 10 x, 102.
J Javaniers, good Souldiers, 205.
Jeflonvfeing betrays Dara-Sha ,
Miracn-Sha, 107.
Mirda, 43.
c,

n^' Mirgimola, the King of Golcon-

' Idolaters belief touching a T)ei- daV General, 67. He is fuff etied
ty, 164. Of the fa te of the Soul by the King, ib. He revolts, 68. He
after death, 161. Of their burning joyns w ith Aurengzeb, ib. beffeges
their dead, 168 . Their feveral sthe King, ib. and cunningly fettles
cuftoms, 179. a new Teace, ib. entertains the Au-
Idolatrous Trinces of Afia, 163. thor at Gondicot, 98, 99. How he
Indians cunninger then the Jews, di fpatch'd bufinefs, 99, He conquers
25. Their manner of croffing R i- Aiem, 1 8 7 .
vers, 100,102. Their Superf it ion, Mirza-Abdou! Cofing marries the
97. The Tenance of the Women,ib. King of GoicondaV third Haugh-
Their Alms, ib. Their Tilgrima- ter, 6<).
ges, 101. Their craftmefs , 102. Muza Mahomed, 6S. See Check
Their Thyfick, 102. Their honefty, of Mecca.
15 6, 1 ; 7- Their manner of driving Moguls, why fo call'd.’ 106.
bargains, ib. Their Tenances, 1S1. Money, the force of it in India,
Indigo, where made, 36, 57,43. 19. What moft greyer to be earn'd
Indolftan bounded, 106. into India, 18,21.
Iron of Golconda, the beft, 65. Monuments Indian ; their fumy-
JJland of St. Helens deferib'd. tiioufnefs, 49, 50, 52, 61.
Ivory the befl, 96. Morad-Backlhe, 108, Vice-Roy of
Juflice in India quick, 99, 100. Guzerat, ib. He rebels againsi his
Rather, 109, befieges Surat, ib. yro-
K. claims himfelf King, ib. He gives '
credit to Aurengzeb’j- fallacies, ib.
Kemero-uf, a City, pag. 188. joyns w ith him, n o , and defeats
Dara-Sha, ib. wounded, ib. He fees
L. his error, is betraid, and fent to
Govaleor, ib. f

L Ahor, pag. 45.

Letter-Carriers, n o .
Lions, how tam'd’ 40.
Mountebanks, Indian, 36.
Multan,43.
Musk, 153. Its adulterations, ib.

M.
M Ar.aflar, a Kingdom deferib'd,
191. The King Jhoots an
Englilh Malefactor.with apoifond
Arrow, 191. His difference with
the Hollanders, 192.
Maldives IJlands, 90.
Malvares, Indian Ty rats,71,1-81.
Mafcate, 16.
Maflipatan, 70.
Matura, one of the chiefeft T a -
gods of the Indians, 48.
N.
TV TAder, pag. 3 5.
Nahab, what it fignifes,
53. 4
Navapoura, 30, famous for Rice
ib.
Nava-Sevagi revolts from the
King of Vifapour, 73.
Nourtnahal, Oueen of India, her
Extractions n , 12.
Obfer-
 to Agra through Brampour and Se~
O. ronge, 30, through Amadabat, 36.
From Ifpahan to Agra, through Can-

O
Bfervations particular upon
the MogulV Court, pag. 124,
• 1*25.
Omrahs, their duty, 122,
Ormus; the manner of Sailing
frem Ormus to Surat, 15.
Outemeda, 97.
p.
dahar, 43. From Dehly to Agra,48.
From Agra to Patna, and Daca, 5i .
From Surat to Golconda, 60. From
Golconda to Maflipatan, 69. From
Surat to Goa ,• from Goa to Gol-
conda, through Vifapour, 71. From
Goa to M a f l i p a t a n , C o c h i n ,
8 8. From Maflipatan to Gandicot,
91. From Gandicot to Golconda,
100; to the Mines, 157, 159, 141.

P
Agods Indian describ'd, 92, 93, Rodas the Fortress, 139.
94, 97, lOz.The mod celebra- Roupies, the difference of them,
ted among the Indians, 173, &c. 20.
Palicat, 93. Rubies, the forms of fever al,
Faffage by Sea from Ormus to 149,150.
Maflipatan, 90. Rule to know the price of Dia-
Faffes, where requir'd, 44, 52. monds, 142, 143.
'Patna, 53.
Feacocks plentiful, 37. How S.
caught, ib.
F earls, and where fifh'dfor, 145. A Itpeter, where refin'd, 53.
Mow bred, how fijh'd for, and at f f j Samarin, an Indian King, 89.
what time, 146, &c. Saferon, 53.
Perea, a petty Indian King, 89. Say-pieces Indian, 2 5, 26.
Fhyfitians, none in India , but Sepper-chekour, 115, fent to Go-
fuch as attend Frinces, 102. valeor, 116.
Filgr images of the Indians, 179. Sera, the fignification of the
Ponte Galle, 194. word, 32.
Portugals, their power in Goa, Scronge, 33.
74, 75. Their excefjive pronenefs to Serpents, their VaFt bulk, and
revenge, ib. difeover a firange deadly venom, 34.
Countrey, 83,-84. Seva-gi continues the revolt, 73.
F rieds Indian, how maintain'd, He finds vafi Treafures, ib.
Frefentsgiven by the Author at Sha-Eft-Kan, 20, 24, 56 ; buys
the Great MogulV Court, 59. the Authors Jewels, 104; his kind-
nefs to the Author, ib. revolts to
R. Aurengzeb, 110.
Sha-Jehan^/f calFdSha-Bedirt-
Age-Mehidc, 54. Mahomet, 107. His good Govern-
Rx 34.
Raolconda, 'Diamond-Mine, ment, 108. He marries a young
• Lady, ib. His children, ib. His love
Rauchenara-Begum, 108, always to his children,ib. He rebels againft
a friend to Aurengzeb. His kind-. his Father, is difinherited, m .H e
fiefs to her; their falling out, 121. is advanc'd to the Throne, 112. His
Religion of the Mahumetans in crueltyfib. He is kept Frifoner by
the Indies, 159, &c. Of the Idola- Aurengzeb, and dies, 113.
trous Indians, 161. Siam, a Kingdom j the King of
Roads from Ifpahan to Agra it, 119,
, through Gomron, 15; from Surat Siren, 143,
ioa&-
■0 - ■r - g
 Sodomy abominated by the Indi- againft him, ib. Bis death, n o .
54. Sumbaco King of MacalTar, 192.
Solyman Chekour defeats his Surat, 15.
Vnckle, 109 Bet'raid by Raja Roup,
flies to Na&iran, 114. Is deliver d T. %
up by him, 119. Sent Tms'ner to ___
Govaleor. HpAm urleng, 106.
Soumelpour, 139. JL Tari,-mhat., 6 s.
Stones colour d, where found, 145- Tavernier a bus d at the Mogul s
Slones medicinal, and their ej- Court, 57. 5^-
febfs, 154, 155. Tenara a fweetpace, 69.
Stories of tie man that loft his Thrones ; the deferipjon cf the
child in Swimming., 38. Of the Moguls Thrones, 122, (Sc.
Merchant's Wife that defin'd a Thunderbolts three at a time,
child, 39. Of the Merchant that 91.
ne'r told lye, ib. The Story of Mon- Tipra a Kingdom, 18 6.
fieur Belloy, 79. O f the rich L eapr Travelling, the manner in India,
in Goa, ib. Of St. Amant, and 27, 29.
John de Rofe, and the Sieur Ma- Treachery, a notable pece p it
refts, ib. 80, 81, (Sc. O f Father upn the ’Author at Gomron, 157.
Ephraim, 85, 86, 87. Tur^uoifes, where found, 144*.
Sultan Aboufaid-Mirza, 107.
Sultan Babur, 107. Y.
Sultan Boulaki preferred by Sha-
Jeh an ,m . Betraid by Moui-Kan, Yifapour deferib'd, 71.
11 a. Retires into Perha, ib.
Sultan Kourom, 107. See Sha- W.
Jehan.
Sultan Mahomed, Mogul, 107. X liJ - J y s ; High-ways in India,
Sultan Mahomed, AurengzebV \ y 100.
Son, marries the fecond Taughter Weights Indian for Gold and Sil-
of the King of Golconda, 69. He ver, 18. Other weights,17.O fD ia-
flies to his Vnckle, 117. Is betraid mends, 140. Of colour d Stones, 144.
by Emir-Jemla, and impnfond\ 118, Of Tear Is, 148.
119. Winds hot, their flifling nature,
Sultan Selina , alias Jehanguir 44.
Patska, 107. Wives of the Indians burnt a-
Sultan Soujah, 108. Rebels, 109. live w ith their dead Husbands»
He flies to the King of Arakan, 169, 170, 171, 17a.
marries h is ’Daughter, 119. Plots Woods of Bambo.us, 94.

. i ! T .' §
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