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Stepwells in Gujarat

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ECOLOGICAL TRADITIONS OF INDIA
VOLUME - XI

GUJARAT

edited by
M. Amirthalingam

published by
C.P.R. Environmental Education Centre
a Centre of Excellence of the Ministry of Environment,
Forests and Climate Change, Government of India.

ENVIS Centre - www.cpreecenvis.nic.in

2................................Ecological Traditions of India - Gujarat

© 2015 C.P.R. Environmental Education Centre, Chennai

All rights reserved

Production:
P. Sudhakar and R. Sathyanarayanan

No part of this publication may be reproduced without

permission from

C.P.R. Environmental Education Centre

The C.P. Ramaswami Aiyar Foundation
1, Eldams Road, Alwarpet, Chennai - 600 018.
Email : cpreec@gmail.com
Websites : www.cpreec.org / www.cpreecenvis.nic.in

ISBN : 978-81-86901-25-0

Price: Rs. 150/-150/-

Cover Photos by:

Dr. Arun Kumar Roy Mahato and
Adalaj Stepwell, Gujarat - wikipedia commons
88................................Ecological Traditions of India - Gujarat

STEP WELLS OF GUJARAT

M. Amirthalingam*

Introduction

Water wells have played a key role in the architecture of India

since the dawn of history. Excavation has proved the existence of
step wells in Mohenjo-Daro and Harappa. Step wells can be defined
as water sources such as wells or ponds in which water may be
accessed by descending a flight of steps. These wells may often
be enclosed and protected and may contain many intriguing
architectural designs. These wells were constructed with the main
objective of ensuring water supply during periods of drought. They
also reflected the deep faith in the water god which is recounted
even in the Vedas. They may often also be multi storied. Stepwells
thus represent a unique combination of technology, architecture and
art of the subcontinent1.

As many as 700 wells have been found in Mohenjo-Daro and

Harappa2. More recently, the construction of step wells can be dated
to at least 600 CE, especially in the northwestern part of India
particularly Gujarat and Rajasthan3. The construction of these step
wells reached its nadir between the 11th and 16th Century CE. Most
existing step wells can be dated to at least 800 years ago. This tradition
of building step wells continued even during the Islamic and British
rule.

* C.P.R. Environmental Education Centre,

Alwarpet, Chennai – 600 018
Step Wells of Gujarat ........................................................89

Step wells in Gujarat

The step wells or vaavs were common in the semi-arid regions of

Gujarat to cater to the drinking water needs of the people. These
wells were also scene of colourful festivals and sacred rituals.
Gujarat is famous as the land of vaavs or step wells since it is an area
of scanty rainfall. These vaavs go by different names in different
parts of the country. In the Hindi speaking belt they are usually
called baudi. In the Gujarat and Marwar region of the Rajasthan
they are known as vaav. In Kannada, they are called kalyani or
pushkarani and in Marathi, barav.

An interesting feature of the vaav is that the direct sunlight cannot

penetrate the well and the evaporation of water is thus reduced and
also the water gets filtered from the earth, thus remaining pure and
fresh. These step wells are so well constructed that they can
withstand earthquakes to the scale of 7.6 on the Richter scale4.

There are a number of step wells which are found in the state of
Gujarat. These tanks are constructed in different forms, plans and
structures and designs with steps leading to the water level. In the
modern wells, a brick parapet wall surrounds the well shaft. Water
is drawn by a pulley system. These step wells not only fulfilled the
need for water but also acted as cool retreats. The walls and pillars
of the step wells were embellished with decorated sculptures.

The step wells can be divided into four categories. The first, called
Nanda, is the most common and least complicated type, with one
flight of steps leading to the shaft. The second is bhadra – two flights
of steps aligned in line with the shaft in the middle. The third is
Jaya – three flights of steps perpendicular to the adjacent ones and
90................................Ecological Traditions of India - Gujarat

arranged in three directions around the central shaft. The fourth is

Vijaya - this type of vaav is similar to those of the Jaya type.

Thus, the vaavs are not only a fine example of Gujarati

architecture but also they seem to be designed to arrange the
meeting of gods and men to quaff the elixir of life-water. These
wells are usually surrounded by a circular walkway for easy
circumambulation.

The vaavs or baolis (step-wells) consist of two parts, a vertical

shaft from which water was drawn and the inclined subterranean
passageways, chambers and steps which surrounded it, providing
access to the well. The galleries and chambers surrounding these
wells were profusely carved which became cool retreats during
summers. A few examples are given in this article.

Rani-Ki-Vaav (Queen’s Well) at Patan

One of the most famous of the Gujarati vaavs is the Rani-Ki-Vaav

at Patan. It is reputed to have been built by Udaymati in memory of
her husband Bhimdev I (1022 -1063) CE during the period of the
Solanki dynasty5. It is a fine example of the architecture of this
period. It measures approximately 64m long, 20m wide and 27m
deep. Interestingly, the Rani-ki-Vaav is multi-storied, with
colonnades and retaining walls that link the stepped tank to a
circular well. Columns, brackets and beams are embellished with
scrollwork and wall niches are richly carved depicting Lord Vishnu
and his various avatars, alternating with maidens flanked on the
walls surrounding the staircase. The last step of the well leads to a
small gate which is the entrance to a 30 kilometre long tunnel which
is now blocked by stones and mud. It is said that this tunnel was
used as an escape route by the kings during times of war. It is believed
Step Wells of Gujarat ........................................................91

that around half-a-century ago, this area was famous for ayurvedic
plants which were used in the treatment of viral diseases like fever.
Rani-ki-vaav was included in the list of UNESCO world heritage
sites in 20146.

Adalaj Vaav, Ahmedabad

Adalaj is a small village near Ahmedabad. Over the centuries it

was a halting place for travellers. A fine example of Indo-Islamic
architecture, it was built by Queen Rudabai in 1499 CE. It contains
a five storied stepwell combining Islamic, Hindu and Jain motifs.
Mythological scenes adorn the walls. A feature that attracts many
visitors is the Ami Khumbor (a pot that contains the water of life)
and the Kalpa vriksha (a tree of life) carved out of a single slab of
stone. There is also a small frieze of navagraha (nine-planets). The
vaav is octagonal in shape and is built out of sandstone and is richly
ornamented. There is a three dimensional lattice with stone floor
slabs running across. This creates a rhythm of light and shade
which is very pleasing to the eye7. The temperature inside the well is
reputed to be about 5 degrees lower than the outside ambient
temperature. The women who came to fetch water were tempted to
linger here and worship the gods and goddesses and to exchange
notes with their friends8. It is even said that the rich sculptures
that adorn the walls of the vaav resemble those that are found in
palaces9.

Champaner-Pavagadh Vaav

The residents of modern Champaner-Pavagadh in Panchmahals

district of Gujarat are probably unaware of the historical importance
of their town. Champaner-Pavagadh was given the status of World
92................................Ecological Traditions of India - Gujarat

Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2004. Champaner-Pavagadh vaav

was built in the year 1485 CE after a war between Khichi Chauhan
Rajputs and Sultan Mohammad Begda. The Jami Masjid is one
of the most important heritage structures that stand tall in
Champaner.

Joshi, a tourist guide, states that this mosque is one of the few that
have seven mehrab (sanctum sanctorum). The other masjids that
are worth visiting are the Shahi Masjid, Kewada Masjid and
Nagina Masjid. The stunningly decorative etchings on these
mosques, particularly the Nagina Masjid more than justify the
Global Heritage Site status for this site. The tourist trail takes one
through Gebanshah’s vaav or step well that is 80 feet deep, Mehdi
talao, Vada talao, water channels, various fortifications, including
the Atak Fort, which till today has 83 catapult structures. The palace
has a few rooms and bath tubs complete with the ancient version of
jacuzzi, according to Joshi. The most stunning architectural structure
is the Lakulisha Temple of the 10th century enroute to the Kalika
Mata Temple10.

Gebanshah’s Vaav, Champaner

Reputed to have been built in the 16th century CE by a fakir named

Gebanshah, this stepwell comes under the category of the Nanda
type. In general, steps alternate with covered landings which are
called kutas. The well-lit well is completely open to the sky revealing
a wonderful view of the beams and pillars crossing one another at
angles. This is like looking at the skeleton, the very bare bones of
well construction.

Ornamentation is minimal and can be seen in kumbhas below

beams lining the well walls. It is estimated that the well is 20 meters
Step Wells of Gujarat ........................................................93

deep with the shaft having a diameter of 6 meters. The length of the
well at ground level is about 50 meters. There is still water in this
well.

Helical Stepwell, Champaner

This helical stepwell is situated a little outside the town of

Champaner, towards Vadodara. It consists of a 1.2 metre wide
staircase which spirals down along the wall of the well shaft. The
city of Champaner is also otherwise known as “the city of a
thousand wells”. At the well of Gebanshah, the well is distinctly
visible with a long line of beams and the flight of steps leading to
the shaft. There is also a brick parapet wall around the shaft. There
is also a flight of steps leading into the well. These steps are narrower
towards the centre and wider at the wall. The well wall is made of
brick while the steps are made of stone. There are also several
landings where people can take rest. This well can be dated to the
16th century CE. This stepwell is unique in that it has a circular
stairway leading down to the water. The Pavagadh hills which
overlook the city of Champaner contain a number of pools and
ponds and are hence known as `the hills of a hundred pools’11.

Dada Harir Vaav, Ahmedabad

This octagonal stepwell is situated in the Asarwa area of

Ahamedabad city in Gujarat. It was built by the Muslim king Sultan
Bai Harir in 1485 CE and thus it got the name of Dada Harir Vaav.
This stepwell is of the Nanda type with the staircase leading in
the east-west direction. On the eastern side of the well there is an
open octagonal pavilion. The steps lead down westwards through
many landings. There is also a rectangular tank for storing water.
94................................Ecological Traditions of India - Gujarat

The well is designed in five levels, the east level being octagonal
in shape. Each level is provided with finely sculptured pillars and
volute capitals. The niches are full of finely sculptured stone work
and parapets of kumbha or geometric friezes. The builder has also
provided stone ledges for people to take rest. Each stair also
contains a square domed kiosk with an overhanging chajja (cover
of a roof). The pillars and platforms rise vertically one on top of
the other. The steps are open to the sky, whereas the kutas (landings)
are closed with stone slabs. The well shaft is circular. There are
passage ways at all levels which connect the shaft to the octagonal
space above the tank. The shaft wall is covered with geometric
designs12.

Adi-Kadi Vaav, Junagadh

Situated at the foot of the Girnar hills near Junagadh in Gujarat is

an ancient stepwell that can be dated to as far back as 319 BCE.
Lying undiscovered for many centuries, it was brought to light in
976 CE. It was rebuilt by many kings over the centuries. The two
important stepwells are Adi-Kadi vaav and Naugham Kuva. An
interesting feature of these wells is that they have a zig-zag
staircase which is unusual. These two wells are unique in that most
stepwells are dug in the subsoil and rock layers, and the columns,
floors, stairs and walls are built in the normal way; however, these
two wells have been hewn out of the original rock. This means that
the well itself has been built into a single stone.

One of the vaavs is named Adi-Kadi Vaav, built in the 15th century
CE. It belongs to the Nanda type of well. It is reputed to be one of
oldest stepwells in the country. This well contains a straight approach
to the circular well shaft. The shaft appears to be apsidal (semicircular)
at the bottom. Unlike most stepwells in Gujarat, the Adi-Kadi Vaav
Step Wells of Gujarat ........................................................95

does not contain any decorative motifs or even any beams or

pillars. The steps are carved straight into the hard rock. A flight of
120 steps leads down to the water. There is an interesting legend
connected with this well. It is said that when the workmen started
excavating the rock, they found no water. The royal priest advised
the king that two unmarried girls should be sacrificed before water
could be found. Hence, two girls by the name of Adi and Kadi were
sacrificed, and it is said that water was found at the spot thereafter.
Another version says that Adi and Kadi were the two girls who fetched
water from the well every day. In any case, even today, people still
hang cloth and bangles on a tree nearby in their memory.

Navghan Kuvo, Junagadh

Hewn partly out of soft rock, Navghan kuvo is almost a thousand

years old being constructed in the year 1026 CE. It is a shining
example of the early rock cut architecture of the period hewn into
the rock. This well sustained the town of Uparkot through many
a long siege. A flight of spiral stairs lead down 52 metres to the
water. The shaft itself is square shaped. Openings in the side wall
let in light. The well is surrounded by a large forecourt. The well
itself is much older than the forecourt. The well is named after
Ra’Navghon (1025 -44) CE. The forecourt can be dated to the reign
of Ra’Navghon. It is possible that this stepwell is one of the oldest to
be found in the country (source: ASI).

Adalaj Stepwell

This stepwell is situated in the village of Adalaj near to Ahmedabad

city in Gandhinagar district of the western state. It was built in the in
the year 1499 CE by the Muslim king Mohammed Begda for Queen
Rani Roopba, wife of the Vaghela chieftain Veer Singh13. These vaavs
96................................Ecological Traditions of India - Gujarat

not only served the more mundane purpose of supplying drinking

water but also were intricately and exquisitely carved thus making
them good examples of the architecture of the period. They also
served the double purpose of being mini temples as the statues of
various gods and goddess were carved into them. They were also an
example of blending of Hindu and Islamic architecture. The walls of
these vaavs are beautifully carved with various pastoral scenes,
dancers and musicians as well as scenes from the Hindu epics14.

Conclusion

Gujarat being a semi-arid region, there was a need to construct

stepwells to meet the drinking water needs of the people. They also
served as a cool and pleasant meeting place for women to meet and
also, in some cases, were places of worship. These step wells are
noted for their fine sculptures and carvings. In Gujarat, four types of
stepwells can be found.

The advent of modern technology during British rule led to the

gradual decline of the stepwells. Most of the wells fell into disuse or
became the dumping ground for garbage. In the post independence
era, the increasing need for ground water for agricultural purposes
led to the decline in the water table and the consequent drying up of
the stepwells. However, of late, due to increasing awareness among
the general public and NGOs and the recognition by world bodies
like UNESCO, there is a renewed interest in restoring and
maintaining the stepwells to their original state.

Acknowledgement

I wish to express my gratitude to Dr. Nanditha Krishna, Honorary

Director of C.P.R. Environmental Education Centre for her constant
Step Wells of Gujarat ........................................................97

encouragement and to deepen my interest about the history of

nature conservation in general and sacred tanks (stepwells) in
particular.

References

1. Shuichi Takezawa Nii, 2002. ‘Stepwells – Comology of

subterranean architecture as seen in Adalaj’, (English text
translated by Vasanti Menon), The Diverse Architectural
World of the Indian Sub-Continent: Special the World of Indian
Architecture, No.1492, Vol.117., p.24. JABS.

2. Singh, U., 2008. ‘A history of ancient and early medieval India:

from the Stone Age to the 12th century’, pp. 151 – 155, New Delhi:
Pearson Education.

3. Davies, Philip, 1989. The Penguin guide to the monuments of

India. London: Viking.

4. Shekhawat, Abhilash, ‘Stepwells of Gujarat, India’s Invitation’.

Retrieved on 22 nd January 2016; ER. Kirit B. Trivedi, 2013.
‘Water harvesting through some remarkable projects, like
spreading channels, open mines & step wells in the Gujarat
state’, N.W.R.W.S. & K. Department, Government of Gujarat.

5. Jarzombek, Mark M., Prakash, Vikramaditya, 2011. ‘A Global

History of Architecture’, Ching, Francis D. K. (2nd ed.). John Wiley
& Sons. p. 907.

6. “Gujarat’s Rani ki vaav added to UNESCO World Heritage

Site List”. IANS. News.biharprabha.com. Retrieved 14 January
2016.

7. Shuichi Takezawa, (English text translated by Vasanti Menon

Nii), 2002. The Diverse Architectural World of the Indian Sub-
Continent: Special the World of Indian Architecture, No.1492,
Vol.117. P.24. JABS.
 98................................Ecological Traditions of India - Gujarat

8. “Adlaj Vaav – An Architectural Marvel”. Retrieved 14-01-2016

9. “Architecture of the Indian Subcontinent: A Glossary”. Stepwell.

Indo-Arch.org. Retrieved on 14.01.2016

10. Latha Venkatraman, 2005. On a heritage trail, Business Line

September 25, 2005.

11. Indian Journey, Stepwells of Gujarat, 31 December 2009.

Retrieved on 22nd January 2016.

12. Gazetteer of the Bombay Presidency, 1879. Ahmedabad:

Government Central Press, p. 282.

13. Ancient Step-wells of India retrieved on 22.01.2016.

14. Adlaj Vaav – An Architectural Marvel”. Retrieved on 22.01.2016

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