CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION REVIEWER
SEWING MACHINE
1.1 INTRODUCTION TO SEWING
MACHINE
WHAT IS A SEWING MACHINE?
A sewing machine is a mechanical or
electromechanical device designed to stitch
fabric or other materials together using thread.
It automates the process of sewing, making it
faster and more efficient compared to manual
sewing by hand. Sewing machines are widely
used in various industries, including garment
manufacturing, upholstery, quilting, and home
sewing.
BENEFITS AND ADVANTAGES OF
SEWING MACHINES:
SPEED AND EFFICIENCY
1. Sewing machines can produce stitches
much faster than manual sewing,
increasing overall productivity.
2. Ideal for mass production in industries
and for completing projects more quickly
in a home setting.
PRECISION AND CONSISTENCY
1. Sewing machines provide consistent and
precise stitches, ensuring a professional
finish to garments or other sewing projects.
2. Many modern sewing machines come
with various stitch options, allowing for
versatility in design.
EASE OF USE:
1. Sewing machines are designed to be
user-friendly, making them accessible to
both beginners and experienced sewers.
2. Automatic features and controls
simplify the sewing process.
VERSATILITY:
1. Sewing machines can handle a wide
range of fabrics and materials, from
delicate silk to heavy denim.
2. Different stitch patterns and functions
allow for creative and customized sewing
projects.
COST – EFFECTIVE:
In the long run, using a sewing machine
can be more cost-effective than relying
solely on hand sewing, especially for
large-scale or repetitive tasks.
TIME SAVING:
Sewing machines save time, making it
possible to complete projects in a fraction
of the time it would take using manual
methods.
AUTOMATION AND INNOVATION:
Modern sewing machines often come with
advanced features, such as automatic
threading, embroidery options, and
computerized controls, enhancing
efficiency and creativity.
PROFESSIONAL RESULTS:
Sewing machines enable users to achieve
professional-looking results, contributing
to the quality and durability of the finished
product.
.2 HISTORY OF SEWING MACHINE
IMPORTANCE OF SEWING IN
HUMAN
HISTORY:
•Sewing has played a crucial role in the
development of human civilization,
contributing significantly to the way
societies have clothed themselves and
expressing their cultural identity.
THE PURPOSE OF SEWING IN
HUMAN HISTORY
CLOTHING AND SHELTER
1. Sewing was instrumental in the creation
of clothing, providing protection against
the elements and allowing humans to adapt
to various environments.
2. The ability to stitch fabrics together
enabled the development of tailored
garments, enhancing comfort and
functionality.
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CULTURAL EXPRESSION
1. Sewing has been an integral part of
cultural expression, allowing communities
to showcase their identity through
distinctive clothing styles, patterns, and
embroidery.
2. Traditional costumes, often intricately
sewn, have served as a means of
preserving and transmitting cultural
heritage across generations
ECONOMIC SIGNIFICANCE
1. The production of textiles and clothing
through sewing has been a cornerstone of
many economies throughout history.
2. Handcrafted textiles were often traded
as valuable commodities, contributing to
economic exchanges and cultural
interactions between different regions.
SOCIAL AND GENDER DYNAMICS
1. In many societies, sewing was
traditionally associated with domestic
roles, and the skill was often passed down
through generations, creating a sense of
continuity and community.
2. The gendered nature of sewing, with
women historically playing a central role,
has influences social structures and norms.
ARTISTIC EXPRESSION:
1. Sewing has been a form of artistic
expression, with artisans and craftspeople
creating intricate designs, patterns, and
embellishments through various sewing
techniques.
2. Embroidery, quilting, and other sewing-
related arts have been valued forms of
creative expression.
PRE-SEWING MACHINE ERA
EARLIEST KNOWN SEWING
TECHNIQUES
The history of sewing can be traced back
to the Paleolithic era, around 25,000 years
ago. Early humans used bone needles and
plant fibers to stitch together animal
hides,creating rudimentary clothing and
shelter. This innovation marked a
significant advancement in their ability to
adapt to various climates.
PRE-SEWING MACHINE ERA
1. Simple Stitching Methods:
• Early sewing involved basic stitching
methods, often using bone, ivory, or
wooden needles.
• Techniques included basic running
stitches and whip stitches, which were
effective for joining pieces of fabric or
animal hides.
2. Materials Used:
• Needles were crafted from materials
readily available, such as bone, horn, or
plant thorns.
• Threads were initially made from natural
fibers like plant fibers, animal sinew, or
tendons.
PRE-SEWING MACHINE ERA
Sewing for Practical Purposes:
1. Early humans used sewing primarily for
practical purposes, including creating
clothing, footwear, and shelter.
2. Sewing techniques were crucial for
survival, providing protection against the
elements and enhancing the durability of
garments.
4. Adaptation to Different Climates:
3. In various regions, sewing techniques
adapted to the climate and available
resources.
4. In colder climates, for example, people
sewed layers of fur or animal hides for
insulation, showcasing the adaptability of
early sewing methods.
NEEDLE AND THREAD USE IN
ANCIENT CIVILIZATIONS
1. Ancient Egypt
2. Ancient China
3. Ancient Greece and Rome
4. Middle Ages in Europe
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Due to the challenges of manual sewing
for mass production, inventors attempt
their way to automate sewing for a more
efficient and faster production.
THE FIRST SEWING MACHINE
The Industrial Revolution in the late 18th
and early 19th centuries triggered a
demand for more efficient textile
production.
ELIAS HOWE AND HIS INVENTION
OF THE LOCKSTITCH MACHINE:
• In 1846, American inventor Elias
Howe successfully patented the first
practical and efficient sewing machine.
• Howe's machine introduced the concept
of the lockstitch, a strong and secure stitch
formed by two threads interlocking.
THE LOCKSTITCH MECHANISM:
• Howe's lockstitch machine utilized a
needle with an eye near its point, an upper
thread, and a shuttle carrying the lower
thread.
• The two threads formed a precise and
reliable stitch, addressing a critical
challenge in earlier sewing machine
designs.
ADVANTAGES OF USING
LOCKSTITCH MACHINE VS
TRADITIONAL METHOD
• Howe's machine solved the problem
faced by earlier inventors, such as thread
breakage and the creation of a reliable
stitching mechanism.
• The lockstitch design significantly
improved the durability and strength of
stitched fabrics.
THE COMMERCIALIZED SEWING
MACHINE IMPROVING THE
EARLIER DESIGN
• Isaac Singer made significant
improvements to Elias Howe's sewing
machine design, refining its
functionality and user-friendliness.
• His contributions addressed certain
limitations of earlier models, making
the sewing machine more accessible
to a wider audience.
INTRODUCTION OF THE FOOT
TREADLE
• One of Singer's key innovations was the
introduction of the foot treadle, a pedal-
operated mechanism that replaced hand
cranks.
• The foot treadle allowed for continuous
stitching, eliminating the need for frequent
manual adjustments and making the
sewing process more efficient.
THE INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION
AND SEWING MACHINES:
ROLE OF SEWING MACHINES IN
THE INDUSTRIAL
REVOLUTION:
• Sewing machines played a crucial role in
the mechanization of textile and garment
production during the Industrial
Revolution.
• They replaced or supplemented manual
labor, significantly increasing the speed
and efficiency of the sewing process
NOTABLE POINTS DURING THE
INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION:
1. Mechanization of Sewing Processes
2. Mass Production Capabilities
3. Division of Labor and Specialization in
Sewing Industries
4. Accessibility of Clothing
5. Changes on Fashion and Trends
6. Social Standards
7. Employment and Urbanization
SEWING MACHINES IN THE
20TH CENTURY SEWING
MACHINES IN THE 20TH CENTURY
• Introduction of Electric Sewing
Machines
• The early 20th century witnessed a
significant technological leap with the
introduction of electric sewing machines.
• Electric machines replaced foot treadles,
offering greater speed and reducing the
physical effort required for sewing.
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• Zigzag stitch capabilities, buttonhole
attachments, and specialized presser feet
became common, providing users with
more options for different sewing tasks.
• Advances in materials and design made
sewing machines more portable and
compact.
• Portable machines allowed for greater
flexibility, enabling sewing enthusiasts to
take their machines to classes or gathering
COMPUTERIZED SEWING
MACHINES
• Computerized sewing machines are
equipped with LCD screens and touch
controls.
• Extensive stitch libraries offer a wide
range of built-in stitches, from basic to
decorative and complex embroidery
patterns.
• Users can customize and combine
stitches, adjusting length, width, and
other parameters for creative flexibility.
SEWING MACHINES TODAY
CURRENT STATE OF THE SEWING
MACHINE INDUSTRY
Diversity in Products:
1. The sewing machine industry continues
to offer a diverse range of products
catering to various user needs.
2. Consumers can choose from a variety of
machines with features ranging from basic
stitching to advanced
embroidery and quilting capabilities.
Technology Integration:
3. Ongoing technological advancements
contribute to the integration of smart
features in sewing machines.
4. Connectivity to mobile devices, touch-
screen interfaces, and computerized
controls are becoming standard in many
models.
Sustainability and Eco-Friendly
Initiatives:
5. Some manufacturers focus on
sustainability, incorporating eco-friendly
materials and energy-efficient components
into their sewing machines.
6. Repairability and upgradability are also
considerations in response to growing
environmental awareness.
Online Accessibility:
7. The sewing machine industry has
embraced online platforms, allowing
consumers to research, compare, and
purchase machines from various
manufacturers.
8. Online tutorials and forums provide
additional resources for users to learn and
share sewing techniques.
TYPES OF SEWING MACHINE
MECHANICAL TREADLE SEWING
MACHINES
1. These machines are operated manually
and are suitable for basic sewing tasks.
2. Ideal for beginners, they offer a simple
design with basic stitch options.
ELECTRONIC SEWING MACHINES
1. Electronic sewing machines have
motorized components, allowing for
smoother operation.
2. They come with a range of built-in
stitches, automatic features, and may have
a digital display for stitch selection.
COMPUTERIZED SEWING
MACHINES
1. Advanced and feature-rich,
computerized sewing machines are
controlled by a computerized interface.
2. They offer a wide variety
of stitches, embroidery options, and
programmable stitch sequences.
EMBROIDERY MACHINES
1. Dedicated to embroidery tasks, these
machines have the capability to create
intricate designs on fabric.
2. They often come with built-in
embroidery designs and may allow users to
upload custom designs.
SERGER OR OVERLOCK
MACHINES
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1. Serger machines are specialized in It controls the speed of the machine which
creating finished edges and seams. depends on the force exerted on it. But it is
2. They trim the fabric edge, encase it with not an essential part of high-speed sewing
thread, and create a neat and professional machines as the machine speed can be set
finish. by one single adjustment and start and stop
QUILTING MACHINES of the sewing machine is then controlled
1. Designed specifically for quilting, these with the push of a button.
machines have features like a wide 2. POWER CORD AND SWITCH:
working area, walking feet, and specialized The electricity for the machine is supplied
quilting stitches. by the power cord which has to be
2. Quilting machines may also come with a connected tightly to the machine for
quilting table for better support. constant supply of power. The power
HEAVY-DUTY SEWING MACHINES switch is used for switching ON and OFF
1. Heavy-duty machines are built for of the sewing machines electrically.
sewing through thick and heavy fabrics, 3. HAND WHEEL:
leather, or multiple layers of material. It is used for slowly raising and lowering
2. They are suitable for tasks like the sewing needle manually to provide
upholstery, canvas work, and other heavy- better control to position fabric under the
duty sewing projects needle. The clutch knob positioned inside
PORTABLE SEWING MACHINES the wheel acts as a safety feature, that is,
1. Compact and lightweight, portable when the knob is pulled out, it avoids the
sewing machines are designed for on-the- needle from jabbing up and down while
go or small-space sewing. winding a bobbin.
2. They are suitable for basic sewing tasks 4. REVERSE LEVER:
and repairs. It is situated on the front side of the
machine. This is used for making reverse
PARTS AND FUNCTION OF A stitching while sewing at the end of every
SEWING MACHINE seam to secure it.
5. SPOOL PIN AND HOLDER:
1. FOOT PEDAL:
It holds the sewing thread besides controls
the sewing thread direction as it goes
through the machine.
6. BOBBIN WINDER:
It is used to wind the bobbin thread on the
empty bobbin. Bobbin winders can be
located at the top or right side of the
machine.
7. PATTERN SELECTOR:
It is used to decide the kind of stitch to be
sewn on the fabric, such as straight stitches
or zigzag or an embroidery stitch. Based
on the machine type, a variety of stitches
can be selected beside straight stitches.
8. STITCH LENGTH ADJUSTMENT:
Stitch length determines the length of the
stitch The range on the machine is from 0
to 4. 0 is the shortest stitch, 4 is the
longest. The stitch length adjustment
adjusts the length of stitches the sewing
machine makes. The adjustment takes
place at the feed dog not the machine
needle. Shortening the stitch length
shortens the amount of fabric that is fed
under the presser foot before the needle
comes down and vice versa
9. TENSION DISKS:
• Thread tension determines the looseness
or firmness of the stitch. Tensions disks
control the pressure applied to the thread
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for uniform feed to the machine needle.
The main functions of tension device is to
• Position the thread to needle
• Regulate the flow of the thread
• Maintain the smoothness in stitching
• Control the thread passage precisely
• There are two kinds of tension device,
such as direct tension
device and indirect tension device. Both
types have parts like
(a) pressure disk, (b) tension spring, (c)
thumb nut, (d)
tension mounting bar and (e) pressure
releasing unit
10. NEEDLE AND NEEDLE CLAMP:
The needle fits into the needle bar, which
holds it in place with a small screw. The
needle clamp is used to fix the needle in
place.
11. TAKE-UP LEVER:
The take-up lever moves up and down
during the stitch formation to provide the
extra thread while forming the loop and
takes back the needle thread after each
stitching to set the stitch. It is used to
regulate the needle thread tension at an
optimum level.
12. PRESSER FOOT:
It is used to grip the fabric from the top
counter to the feed dog; therefore, the feed
dog can move the fabric through the
machine. It applies downward pressure on
the material as it is fed under the needle.
14. FEED DOG:
Feed dogs are a ‘teeth-like’ component
that combines with the presser foot to
transport the fabric by one stitch. I also
regulates the stitch length by adjusting the
fabric movement per stitch.
15. FACE PLATE:
It is a cover that conceals all the internal
working elements of the machine.
16. THROAT PLATE:
It has a hole for the needle to go through to
the bobbin casing, a pair of slots for the
feed dog to move and stitching guide lines.
It is a removable part, which covers the
bobbin and bottom of the sewing machine.
17. SEWING LIGHT:
It aids in threading the needle and allows
you to see the stitching in both day and
night.
18. PRESSER FOOT LEVER:
It is used to engage and disengage the
presser foot on the fabric against the feed
dogs gently. When it is in the upward
position, the tension disks are disengaged
an vice versa.
19. THREAD CUTTER:
Sewing machine thread cutters are usually
located behind the needle of the sewing
machine, so that it is convenient while the
fabric is moved to the back of the machine,
the sewing thread can be cut using the
thread cutter.
20. SLIDE PLATE:
It is a plastic cover that protects the
bobbin case from the dirt and dust. It also
gives the open space for accessing the
bobbin zone under the sewing machine for
changing the bobbins and other
maintenance work to be carried out in this
area.
21. BOBBIN CASE:
It is the case where the bobbin has to be
fixed. This can be found under the needle
plate and usually has a piece of plastic that
flips up to cover the bobbin case when not
sewing. Bobbin cases are no exchangeable
in different sewing machines.
22. BOBBIN:
A bobbin is a small package that carries
the bottom sewing thread and is fitted onto
the bobbin case. Bobbins are filled on the
bobbin winder and the thread should be
evenly distributed on the bobbin.
1.6 CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF
SEWING MACHINES
1. Read the Manual: Always start by
reading the user manual that comes with
CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION REVIEWER
your sewing machine. It contains
important information specific to your
machine model, including maintenance
instructions.
2. Clean Regularly: Dust and lint can
accumulate in the machine, affecting its
performance. Clean the machine after each
use or at least once a week. Use a small
brush or a vacuum with a nozzle
attachment to remove lint from the bobbin
area, feed dogs, and other parts.
3. Change Needles: Replace the sewing
machine needle regularly, especially if it
becomes dull, bent, or damaged. A dull
needle can cause skipped stitches and
damage the fabric. Change the needle after
every 8-10 hours of sewing or after
completing a large project.
4. Oil the Machine: Consult your manual
for guidance on oiling your sewing
machine. Some machines require regular
oiling, while others are designed to be oil-
free. If oiling is necessary, use only the
recommended oil and follow the
instructions carefully.
5. Thread Quality: Use high-quality
thread that is suitable for your sewing
machine.
6. Bobbin Care: Clean the bobbin area
regularly and use the correct type and size
of bobbins for your machine. Ensure that
the bobbin is inserted correctly, and the
thread is properly wound.
7. Tension Adjustment: Check and adjust
the tension settings as needed. Incorrect
tension can lead to stitching problems.
Refer to your manual for guidance on
adjusting the tension.
8. Storage: When not in use, cover your
sewing machine to protect it from dust.
Store it in a cool, dry place away from
direct sunlight. If you plan to store the
machine for an extended period, follow the
manufacturer's recommendations.
9. Check for Loose Screws and Parts:
Periodically inspect your sewing machine
for loose screws, nuts, or other parts.
Tighten any loose components to prevent
potential issues.
10. Professional Servicing: If you
encounter persistent problems or if your
machine is due for maintenance consider
taking it to a professional for servicing.
Techniques of Taking Body
Measurements
A – Bust Measure the bust at the fullest
part. Measure all around the body (total
circumference).
B – Waist Measure the waist where the
body bends. It helps to bend side to side to
identify exactly where to measure. You
can put an elastic band around the waist to
mark the correct placement.
C – Hip Measure the hips at the fullest
part, usually around the seat
D - High Hip Measure around the fullest
part, about 3 - 4" below the waist. This is
helpful when fitting a slim skirt or pants
(to get an accurate idea of the shape of the
hip, or the belly).
E - Front Waist Length
Start at the shoulder (right next to the base
of the neck), and measure to the waist,
placing the tape over the fullest part of the
bust
F - Back Waist Length Measure from the
base of the neck (in the center, not the
side), to the center of the waistline
G - Arm Length Measure from the top of
the arm (find the bone at the shoulder/top
of the arm) to the wrist (find the bone at
the side of the wrist), WITH THE ELBOW
BENT. It's important to keep the elbow
bent to allow for movement when you
make a sleeve.
H – Thigh Measure the thigh just below
the crotch, at about the fullest point.
Measure all around the thigh, keeping the
tape horizontal and level with the floor
(this part is tricky, because the tape always
wants to dip).
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I – Ankle - Measure the ankle all around,
at the narrowest point (where the ankle
flexes)
J – Inseam Measure the inseam along the
inner thigh and calf, from just below the
crotch to the ankle.
K – Outseam Measure along the outer
thigh and calf, from the waist to the ankle.
For a skirt length, measure the outseam
from the waist to the knee.
L - Crotch Depth
Sit on a firm chair and measure from the
waist to the top of the chair seat. It may be
easier to use a ruler for this measurement.
GUIDELINES FOR TAKING
ACCURATE BOD MEASUREMENT
Rules in Taking Body Measurement
• Wear undergarments or bodysuit when
measuring.
• Use tape measure that does not stretch.
• Tie a string around your natural
waistline.
• Pull the tape snug, but not too tight.
• Be sure to keep the tape parallel to the
floor.
Rules in Taking Body Measurement
• Take girth measurement, then length
measurements.
• Ask the subject to stand in a relaxed,
upright position in stocked feet.
• Insert two fingers in taking
measurements.
• Record all measurements on a chart
accurately.
HORIZONTAL MEASUREMENT IS
TAKEN FROM THE LEFT OF THE
FIGURE TO THE RIGHT
a. Shoulder-measurement is taken from
the tip of left shoulder to the tip of right
shoulder, arching slightly to cover the
cervical prominence of the neck bone.
b. Bust point width - measurement is
taken across the tip of the left bust point to
the tip of the right bust point.
CIRCUMFERENTIAL
MEASUREMENT IS TAKEN
AROUND THE BODY
a. Bust-measurement is taken around
fullest part of the bust.
b. Waist-measurement is taken around the
smallest part of the torso.
c. First hip-measurement is taken around
the hip level where the stomach is fullest.
d. Second hip - measurement is taken
around the hip level where the buttocks are
fullest.
e. Armhole measurement is taken around
the armhole.
f. Arm girth measurement is taken around
the arm
VERTICAL MEASUREMENT IS
TAKEN FROM THE TOP OF THE
FIGURE TO ITS BASE
a. Back figure - measurement is taken
from the center of the back shoulder blade
down to the waistline level.
b. Front figure - measurement taken from
the neck point passing over the bust down
to the waistline level.
c. Bust point height - measurement is
taken from the neck point down to the
highest point of the bust.
d. Sleeve length measurement is taken
from the shoulder point down to the
desired length in the arms.
e. Skirt length measurement is taken from
the waist down to the desired length.
PATTERN DRAFTING pattern making.
Pattern making is an art. It is an art of
manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric
to conform to one or more curves of a human
figure Pattern making is a bridge function
between design and production.
Pattern is the template from which the parts of
garment are traced onto fabric before being cut
out and assembled.
Patterns are usually made of paper and are
sometimes made of sturdier materials like
paperboard or cardboard if they need to be
more robust to withstand repeated use.
CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION REVIEWER
The process of making or cutting patterns is
sometimes condensed to the one-word
“Patternmaking” but it can be also written
“pattern making” or “pattern cutting”
PATTERN MAKING TOOLS
List of patterns making tools and their uses for
pattern maker.
1.PATTERN PAPER it varies in weight;
light weight paper is used for develop first
pattern and then grading is done on heavy
weight paper.
2. MEASURING TAPE
It is used to measure the body measurement.
3. PENCIL, ERASER & SHARPENER it is
use in drafting the pattern.
4. PEN different color to wright the
information on pattern and marking.
5. PAPER SCISSOR use to use the drafted
pattern.
6. L- Square Ruler also called a triscale or L-
square and is made of wood or steel. L-square
has one arm, which measures 15″ and the other
is 24 used for drafting on brown paper to draw
perpendicular lines.
7. FRENCH CURVE made of transparent
plastic helps in marking shapes of the neck,
depth of sides and garments bottom
8. Hip Curve essential tool for making
patterns and fitting adjustments at the hip line
also great for making adjustments at the
hemline, for lapels and at the elbow
9. The Vary Form Curve Ruler draws a wide
range of curves and is an ideal tool for drawing
arm holes, sleeve caps, necklines, collars and
in adjusting waist and crotch fit of garments
10. Clear Plastic Ruler transparent, plastic or
acrylic ruler with easy-to-read markings is
helpful when measuring and drawing straight
seamlines and cutting lines
11. Tracing Wheel
Pointed and very sharp tracing wheel transfers
marking onto a clean sheet of paper used when
retracing patterns or when transfer draped
muslin onto paper
12. Awl awl will pierce a small hole in your
pattern to indicate the end of a dart, pocket,
trim, or button hole handy for scoring paper to
fold, and also “walking” your measuring tape
around curves for accurate measuring.
13. Notcher common tool used in
patternmaking and sewing that creates a notch
in a paper pattern used to align pattern pieces
METHODS OF PATTERN MAKING
Patternmaking involves three-methods:
Drafting
Draping
Flat paper patternmaking
DRAFTING
It involves measurements derived from sizing
system or accurate measurements taken on a
person, dress or body form.
Measurements for chest, waist, hip and so on,
and ease allowances are marked on paper and
construct lines are drawn to complete the
pattern.
Drafting is used to create basic, foundation or
design patterns.
DRAPING
It involves the draping of a two-dimensional
piece of fabric around a form, conforming its
shape, creating a three-dimensional fabric
pattern.
This muslin is transferred to paper to be used
as a final pattern (Armstrong).
Advantage of draping is that the designer can
see the overall design effect of the finished
garment on the body form before the garment
piece is cut and sewn.
FASHION PATTERN MAKING TERM
FIRST PATTERN
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This pattern is original pattern developed
for each design. generally made from:
Marking paper and usually requires fitting
and adjustment, half a pattern is developed.
An asymmetrical design requires a full
pattern.
Production pattern
a pattern set that has been corrected and
without
error. The pattern must contain every
pattern piece. Required to complete the
garment. The pattern are used by the
grader for grading sizes and by the marker
maker for fabric layout .Pattern chart
placed in the front of the set. marker maker
The marker maker’s responsibility is to lay
the production patterns on making paper so
that there
is little waste of fabric.
Pattern size are often mixed on the marker
to prevent waste. The marker pencil
marked, photo marked, or done on a
computer.
BALANCE LINE TERM
RIGHT ANGLE- The 90 degree angle
formed by two intersecting lines, referred
to as a squared line.
SYMMETRICAL LINE- A center fine
with proportions on either side of it.
BALANCE- The perfect relationship
between parts that when combined, form a
unit (or whole) in which each part is in that moves at a night angle to crosswise
exact proportion and harmony with all grain.
others. WEFT - The line of thread moving from
BALANCING A PATTERN- Finding selvage to selvage.
and TRUE BIAS - is an invisible line that’s at
adjusting the differences between joining a 45 degree angle to the crosswise and
pattern parts to improve the hang and fit of lengthwise grain. When garments are cut
the garment. on the bias, they hug and move easily with
HORIZONTAL BALANCE LINE- the body.
Pattern are marked with horizontal
balanced lines squared from the center A-starting point
lines representing the crosswise grain when
A - BPH
the garment is cut in fabric.
BUST POINT- A designated place on the A - FF
bust and pattern and referred to in flat
patternmaking as the pivotal point of apex. A-FL
DART- A wedge shape cut out in a pattern A-S
to control the fit of a garment.
DART LEG- The two lines converge at a BPH-BPD
predetermined point on the pattern. BPH-B
SELVEDGE- is a self- finished edge of
fabric. The selvedges keep the fabric from FF-W
unraveling or fraying. The selvedges are a
FL- Hip 2
result of how the fabric is created.
GRAIN LINE - This thread runs the entire A - Neck
length of fabric and is parallel to the
selvage. When you place a pattern on the A - Shoulder
fabric, you align the pattern’s grainline S- Add 1 inch pababa → Connect it to the neck
with the fabric’s lengthwise grain.
LENGTH GRAIN LINE - The line of N- A line -6 or 7 -round (the standard size is 7)
fabric
CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION REVIEWER

S- add 1 inch pababa I add 4 inch pababa Start

in 1 inch
4 inch - add 1/2 to the left.
Arm Hole 2 or 1/2 trace it ½ to 1/½ arm Hole
end of arm Hole connect to bust line Next to
standard 1 inch of Shoulder
Front –figure Shoulder to elbow

Back figure
Shoulder align to elbow
Shoulder Blade height (shoulder hanggang
buto sa likod)
shoulder blade distance (distance ng buto sa
likod, the pakpak part)

Full length haba ng blouse na gagawin

Bust point height - Shoulder hanggang nipple
Bust print Distance - Nipple to nipple