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36
e Sugar n’ Spice’s
Eggs Benedict with
a Bloody Mary
 Delish!

Old School Spots

New Classics SUGAR N’ SPICE
SACRED BEAST
This Over-the-Rhine joint is best Back in the day, Sugar n’ Spice was just a restaurant. Now, it’s a nouveau-retro
known for turning diner lunch clas- breakfast institution. The original location on Reading Road is being renovated
sics into elevated fine dining, so it’s (it’s reopening this summer), but the food is as classic as it was in 1941. The famous
no surprise that the same principle omelettes are still fluffy and the legendary pancakes are the same lighter-than-air
applies to its all-day breakfast menu. variety that fill the plate, if you can keep them anchored down with butter and syrup.
At first glance, the choices appear
ordinary: an omelette, hash browns, But if you’re a steak-and-eggs kind of person, go at it. Reservations (and loose pants)
corned beef hash, and eggs. But are highly recommended.
look a little closer and you’ll see that Locations in Bond Hill, Over-the-Rhine, and Blue Ash; eatsugarnspice.com
the omelette is made with piquillo
peppers and goat cheese, or the hash
browns are coated in neckbone gravy
and served with roasted chicken.
Our advice? Don’t skip the pancakes,
made with lemon and ricotta in the
batter. They’re practically dessert.
1437 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine,
(513) 213-2864, sacredbeastdiner.
com

Brunch Spots
( O P E N E R PAG E ) C H E C K P H OTO G R A P H BY F E N G Y U / S TO C K . A D O B E .C O M / ( O P E N E R & T H I S PAG E ) PAT T E R N BY E N J OY I S T Y L E / S TO C K . A D O B E .C O M

GOOSE & ELDER

It wouldn’t be a Cincinnati restaurant
list without an appearance from
Jose Salazar. This simple American
joint is probably the biggest CM staff
favorite on the list, with funky-yet-
familiar versions of pancakes, grits,
goetta, and more. It’s certainly
more straightforward compared to
Salazar’s fancier restaurants, but the
word “basic” will never leave your
mouth at G&E. Having one of the
city’s best chefs cook up subtle twists
on brunch classics is never a recipe
for disaster.
1800 Race St., Over-the-Rhine,
gooseandelder.com

Old School Spots

PROUD ROOSTER
With its wood paneling and rooster
memorabilia, the decor at this place
is a throwback to the days when
genuine hippies roamed Ludlow
Avenue. The omelettes are the go-to,
but many give the pancakes two
thumbs up. And biscuits and sausage
gravy might need a side of ham to
make sure you get your minimum
daily requirement of pig. The service
is friendly and generally fast as they
bring out a basic breakfast at prices
that won’t break your wallet. Speak-
ing of wallets, make sure you bring
yours—it’s still cash only.
345 Ludlow Ave., Clifton,
(513) 281-4965
39
ICON BY JEN K AWANARI
VEG OUT
Vegans and vegetarians, fear not—there are still plenty of breakfast
options to fit your needs. Here are four of our favorites. — Lauren Fisher

1 2

4 3

PHOTOGRAPH BY (TEX TURE) KOSTREZ / STOCK . ADOBE .COM

40
PH OTO G R A PHS BY H AT S U E / I CO N S BY J E N K AWA N A RI
 Vegan Schmear Brunch Spots
Vegan cream cheeses, typically made from a cashew base rather than a dairy BOOMTOWN
1
one, are a relatively new addition to the ever-expanding lineup of everyday BISCUITS & WHISKEY
pantry staple substitutes. Will it fool anyone when it’s smeared on a bagel by itself? Christian Gill has become a Cincin-
Probably not. But it’s a perfectly fine way to anchor a bagel sandwich at OTR Bagel nati foodie icon for his repeated
Bar, where build-your-own options abound. For a hearty breakfast on the go, try the victories on various Food Network
vegan schmear on a bagel of your choice with avocado, tomato, and vegan goetta, series, like the time he beat Bobby
which is just as crumbly and believable as the real thing. Flay or conquered Guy Fieri’s grocery
107 W. Elder St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 202-6972 games. It’s no surprise, then, that
his restaurant serves up some of
Avocado Toast Vegetarian Biscuits Yaki Omelette Sando the most inspired breakfast in the
2
In the Sisyphean and Gravy 4
Ordering this sandwich tri-state. You really can’t go wrong
millennial quest to find There are certain with both a vegan egg with any of the Southern cooking on
3
the greatest avocado toast, it’s pleasures in this life that and vegan cheese really made this menu, but the best option is in
hard to believe there’s one out non-meat-eaters go without: it feel like we were putting all the name. Don’t pass up the rotating
there that takes the cake. But juicy steaks, hot dogs fresh off our trust in the capable hands housemade jams and butters either—
the toast from brunch spot the grill, gelatin, etc. But then of Proud Hound’s cooks. In its the habanero-cinnamon butter on a
Yuca, the sister restaurant of there are the dishes you don’t virgin form, the toasted biscuit lives in our heads rent free.
Covington’s Cedar, comes even think to miss, like biscuits sammy relies heavily on the 9039 US-42, Suite H, Union,
pretty close. Instead of the and gravy. Lucky for us, fluffy, omelette-style eggs and boomtownbiscuitsandwhiskey.com
typical mashed avocado/ Newport brunch bistro Press white American cheese, two
lemon/seasoning song and on Monmouth has concocted textures that sound like they’d New Classics
dance, Yuca leans into its more a way to recreate this Southern be next to impossible to BOL
colorful roots, topping its classic without the meaty bits. replicate without actual eggs This West End food truck slings acai
variation with Latin-inspired Two crumbly, buttery-soft and cheese. But the vegan bowls for health-conscious diners
ingredients like fire-roasted biscuits are drowned in savory substitutions hold up, who’d rather indulge in acai berry
corn pico and guacamole. vegetarian gravy and topped anchored by the shiitake puree and granola than syrup and
Slices of Sixteen Bricks bread with fresh arugula. Take it a mushrooms, egg-free pancakes. Full of antioxidants, the pu-
get a healthy spread of spiced step further and order the Japanese BBQ and yum-yum ree can be mixed with your pick of six
garlic aioli and pistachios add meatless fried chicken add-on sauces, cabbage, and crispy gourmet granolas, and then topped
an unexpected crunch that to make this breakfast dish feel onions between two slices of with fresh fruits and other ingredients
helps put this avo toast a step more like a main course. sesame-seasoned toast. (like mangoes, bee pollen, and co-
above the rest. 421 Monmouth St., 6717 Montgomery Rd., conut shavings). We recommend the
700 Fairfield Ave., Newport, (859) 261-3397, Silverton, (513) 987-1233, Expialidocious—oats, honey, cherries,
Bellevue, (859) 360-0110, pressonmonmouthnky.com proudhoundcoffee.com strawberries, banana, mango, blue-
yucabycedar.com berries, cinnamon, pumpkin seeds,
and coconut—which is a popular
option with BOLers.
2165 Central Ave., West End,
(513) 903-9636, bolonline.org

New Classics
SLEEPY BEE CAFÉ
This place serves up breakfast classics
done right. Scrambles, sandwiches,
avocado toast, eggs, goetta, and all
your other morning favorites are
here. Options for dietary restrictions
are abundant, too; there are even
pancakes made from bee-pollinated
flowers. If you want breakfast staples
just how you remember ’em with
freshly sourced local ingredients
and plenty of gluten-free and vegan
options, it’d be hard to do better than
PAT T E R N BY B L A N K S TO C K / S TO C K . A D O B E .C O M

Sleepy Bee.
Downtown, Oakley, College Hill, and
Blue Ash locations; sleepybeecafe.com

Sweet!

41
I L LU S T R ATI O N BY VA L ER II A P OTA I C H U K
 Crown Republic
Gastropub’s Avocado
Toast with Crab

Yum!

New Classics
CROWN REPUBLIC GASTROPUB
There are only three weekday breakfast options here, but those are three of the best (and
biggest) ways in town to start your day. Hearty portions of each—baked eggs with seasonal
vegetables and ciabatta bread, a “belly buster” sandwich, and a business special that
includes eggs, toast, potatoes, extra aioli, your choice of meat, and a beer—ensure that
you’ll be ready for a mid-afternoon nap the moment you step out the door.
720 Sycamore St., downtown, (513) 246-4272, crownrepublicgastropub.com

42

Brunch Spots
BELLEVUE BISTRO
One of Northern Kentucky’s best-
kept secrets, Bellevue Bistro’s crown
jewel—cinnamon-brioche French
toast with powdered sugar and
peanut butter bourbon caramel
sauce, served over bananas—will
cure the mightiest hangover. But
this homey breakfast spot can also
serve up a mean hot brown, a killer
goetta grilled cheese (complete with
bacon jam and potatoes), and a bevy
of meats and proteins served over
biscuits. If you’re wondering why you
can never find Fairfield Avenue park-
ing on weekend mornings, blame
Bellevue Bistro.
313 Fairfield Ave., Bellevue,
bellevuebistro.com
New Classics
TASTE OF BELGIUM
Taste of Belgium has many fans (and
some detractors) among Cincinna-
tians, but one thing’s for sure—ev-
eryone’s been there. It’s grown from
its humble beginnings as a stall at
PAT T E R N BY E N J OY I S T Y L E / S TO C K . A D O B E .C O M
Findlay Market to a breakfast jug-
gernaut with eight locations. While
most known for its array of thick, no-
syrup-needed Belgian Liège waffles,
many customers partner that with a
chicken breast and hot sauce in place
of maple syrup. But don’t overlook
the crêpes and omelettes. There’s
no better time to develop your own
opinion on this Cincinnati classic.
Multiple locations in Ohio and
Kentucky, authenticwaffle.com
I L LU S T R ATI O N BY VA LERII A P OTA I C H U K / I CO N S BY J EN K AWA N A RI
Old School Spots
BLUE JAY RESTAURANT
Fifty years is a long time to perfect
your hotcakes and home fries, but as
good as those are, the Blue Jay is best
known for its signature omelettes.
The Gyro Omelette transforms the
classic sandwich into a breakfast star
(gyro meat, feta, tomatoes, onions,
and peppers), and if you’re feeling
particularly proud of your home-
town, there’s no start to your day like
the Northsider 3-Way Omelette (egg,
cheddar, and Cincinnati chili). True
to its roots, it comes as a 4-, 5-, and
6-way, too, with onions, tomatoes,
peppers, or beans.
4154 Hamilton Ave., Northside,
(513) 541-0847
New Classics
MAPLEWOOD KITCHEN
AND BAR
Health nuts, look no further. Maple-
wood is your breakfast of choice. This
West Coast–style café prides itself on
its organic ingredients—like grass-
fed butter and cage-free eggs—and
features every trendy health food
you can think of: avocado toasts,
quinoa bowls, kale salads, greens,
superfoods, and plenty more. There
are also specialty cold-pressed juices
(see “Drink Champs” on page 44),
locally-roasted coffee, and bottled
cocktails made daily for the perfect
pairing to go with your meal.
525 Race St., downtown, (513) 421-
2100, maplewoodkitchenandbar.com
Brunch Spots
OTTO’S
It’s no surprise that this quirky-
casual MainStrasse eatery has a
brunch menu that’s a little unusual.
For the unadventurous, there’s your
basic French toast or lox bagels. But
you probably won’t find many spots
serving you a casserole at 10 a.m.
or a BLFGT (ahem, fried green) on a
toasted croissant. At Otto’s, unusual
is never a bad thing.
512 Main St., Covington,
(859) 491-6678, ottosonmain.com
Tasty!
 Juicy!
c
Maplewood Kitchen and Bar’s
UpBeet, Sol Glo, and Sweet Greens

DRINK CHAMPS
Opt for something other than plain coffee or tea when you
head out for your first (or second) meal of the day. —Aiesha D. Little

COLD-PRESSED JUICE BLOODY MARY MIMOSA COLD BREW COFFEE

Each 8-ounce bottle at You could have a V8 or you If you want a little bubbly This coffee technique, which
1 2 3 4
Maplewood Kitchen and could have a Bloody Mary. with your breakfast, involves coffee grounds
Bar contains fruits and veggies The city’s most ’roided-out version HangOverEasy’s mimosas can steeped in cool temperatures for a
TEX TURE BY KABARDINS PHOTO / STOCK . ADOBE .COM

squeezed in a hydraulic press for a
higher concentration of the
vitamins and minerals we need. Try
them in four varieties: Super Greens
(spinach, pineapple, romaine, kale,
parsley, and celery), Sweet Greens
(cucumber, green apple, pear,
lemon, lime, spinach, celery, and
kiwi), UpBeet (beets, lemons, green
apples, carrots), or Sol Glo (oranges,
carrots, pineapple, and ginger).
of this tomato juice–based drink
can be found at Northside Yacht
Club. The Yacht Club Bloody
includes a house smoked pulled
pork slider, Amish jumbo wing, and
American hickory bacon.
make things interesting. With
options like Aloha & Aloha
(pineapple juice, coconut rum,
champagne, and Maraschino
cherries), Life’s Peachy (orange
juice, schnapps, and champagne),
and Air Mail (rum, lime, honey, and
Champagne), you’ll have a tough
time choosing your favorite.
Runner up: Sugar n’ Spice’s pink
lemonade mimosa.
stronger shot of caffeine, is on deck
at spots like Proud Hound, Taste
of Belgium, and HangOverEasy.
If you want to jazz it up with a little
alcohol, check out Maplewood’s
Horchata Cold Brew (cold brew
coffee and spiced RumChata and
Kahlúa liqueurs).

44
ICONS BY JEN K AWANARI
 Coffee
Time!
New Classics
CACKLEBERRY
When you see Cackleberry’s vintage trailer set
up around town, your mouth should immediately
start watering. It’s the only proper Pavlovian re-
sponse to China Kautz’s Filipino-fusion breakfast
sandwiches. We’re partial to the Lola (Spam, Japa-
nese rolled omelette, chives, and sriracha mayo)
and the Lolo (Filipino sweet sausage with atchara,
egg, and garlic aioli), named after Kautz’s Filipino
grandparents (“lolo” and “lola” are “grandfather”
and “grandmother” in Tagalog). If you’re think-
ing over which sandwich to get (the Porter, with
its goetta and Muenster cheese, is another great
option), don’t dawdle—once they’re gone, they’re
gone, and you’ll have to wait until the next week-
end for a taste.
eatcackleberry.com
PAT T E R N BY B L A N K S TO C K / S TO C K . A D O B E .C O M
New Classics
HANGOVEREASY
Given the items on the menu—Walk of
Shame, Kick In The Crotch, Sunshine
On My Ass, just to name a few—and its
proximity to UC’s campus, you’d be
forgiven for assuming HangOverEasy
is a by-and-for-college-students-din-
er. (It is.) What you might not expect
is that H.O.E. is a stunningly executed
and tasty monument to excess, with
every single dish as big and bom-
bastic as a college football crowd.
French toast, but make it out of
cinnamon rolls and coat it in a giant
mound of powdered sugar and five
inches of whipped cream. Pancakes,
but they’re made of oatmeal, have
granola inside, and are layered with
buttercream icing and some more
granola on top for good measure.
You get the picture.
13 W. Charlton St., Corryville,
(513) 221-5400, hangovereasy.com
Old School Spots
PEPPER POD RESTAURANT
When you have a hankering for a slab
of goetta or a country biscuit break-
fast, it’s hard to beat this Newport
diner. It’s good, hearty food designed
to launch you into your day on a full
stomach. Helping the tri-state live up
to its Porkopolis roots, Pepper Pod
offers both a grilled pork tenderloin
breakfast and a grilled pork chop
breakfast, complete with eggs, hash
browns, and toast. If that sounds like
too much meat, the Poor Boy Break-
fast delivers fried bologna with the
same sides as its big brothers.
703 Monmouth St., Newport,
(859) 431-7455, pepperpod
restaurant.food74.com
Old School Spots
HALF DAY CAFÉ
This family-owned and -operated
spot offers craveable breakfast
staples and innovative twists on
everyday items. It’s a Cincinnati spot
for Cincinnati favorites. We’re talking
Glier’s goetta and Seven Hills Coffee
beside house specialties like mango
butter rum pancakes and the Bowl
O’ Goodness (house-made red-eye
gravy over carnitas, white cheddar
grits, and sunny-side up eggs). The
rosemary potatoes go well with
everything, including the chorizo
omelette (chorizo, black beans, spin-
ach, red peppers, and goat cheese)
or the sweet potato pancakes.
8825 Wilkens Blvd., Mason,
(513) 204-1965, halfdaycafe.org
Cackleberry’s Porter
STUFFED TOFU
WITH SHRIMP

STUFFED
EGGPLANT WITH
SHRIMP

STEAMED SHRIMP
DUMPLINGS

SHRIMP &
PORK PUFFS

VIETNAMESE
SPRING ROLLS

STEAMED BBQ
PORK BUNS

POT STICKERS

CHICKEN SUI MAI

PAN-FRIED
PORK BUNS

PAN-FRIED TURNIP
CAKES WITH CHINESE
SAUSAGES

SESAME BALLS WITH

RED BEAN FILLING

STICKY RICE
WRAPPED IN
LOTUS LEAVES
 Ooh
La La!
Brunch Spots
UNCLE YIP’S
If you’ve never tried dim sum—a Chinese brunch style where servers roll
around carts full of savory and sweet delights for you to purchase—head up
to an Uncle Yip’s weekend brunch service immediately. Having servers come
up to your table and show you various plates full of food for $6 each is an ideal
dining experience. “Do you want steamed BBQ pork sticky buns? Pan-fried
cake? Fried puff pastries with shrimp and pork? Mochi with a peanut filling?”
Yes, yes, and a thousand times yes. Be prepared to stay a while.
10736 Reading Rd., Evendale, uncleyips.com

Old School Spots
HATHAWAY’S DINER
Since 1956, Hathaway’s has served
up breakfast in Carew Tower. The
interior remains nostalgic with
vintage posters and old Cincinnati
photos as well as tables and red
chairs right out of a Happy Days
rerun. It’s probably the one place
“Under the Rhine” that still serves
up a filling breakfast at a reasonable
price. You get the standard break-
fast fare you’d expect at any decent
diner with a few perks, like the
decadent French toast sandwich, or
the local fave, the goetta omelette.
Most diners add a pancake and hash
browns, too.
25 W. Fifth St., downtown,
(513) 621-1332, facebook.com/
hathawaysdiner
New Classics
SATURDAY MORNING VIBES
A hot breakfast isn’t always what
you’re craving in the morning.
DESIGN ELEMENTS BY ENJOY IST YLE / STOCK . ADOBE .COM
several flat-screen TVs showing menu has everything from poutine with tofu produced by local soy
classic cartoons. It’s your inner to waffles to a surprising number of sauce maker CinSoy). Rock on.
10-year-old’s dream come true. vegan and vegetarian items (includ- 4231 Spring Grove Ave., Northside,
3539 Reading Rd. Suite 101, ing the Killer Tofu, which is made northsideyachtclub.com
Avondale, (513) 801-6058,
smvcerealbar.com
Old School Spots
THE ECHO
The Echo is an edible oxymoron: an
old-school diner right off of posh
Hyde Park Square. It’s been there
almost 80 years and still has a line
out the door for breakfast on week-
ends. They might have the crispiest
Belgian waffle in town here, but to
be initiated properly, get the Hot
Mess. It’s layer upon layer of that
pesky cholesterol your doctor warns
you about—home fries, scrambled
eggs, sausage and bacon, all hiding
under sausage gravy and cheddar.
And why not add a side of hollan-
daise on top of that and a pitcher of
mimosas, too.
3510 Edwards Rd., Hyde Park,

Sometimes what you want is the (513) 321-2816, echo-hydepark.com

breakfast of your youth—a nice cold
bowl of cereal. That’s where Satur-
day Morning Vibes Cereal Bar comes
in. Choose two cereals from the
menu, add a topping (like coconut
flakes, brownie crumbs, or crushed
Oreos), and pick from five types of
milk (regular, almond, soy, oat, or
lactose free). You can Frankenstein
the bowl of cereal you longed to
create when you were a kid before
parking yourself in front of one of
Brunch Spots
NORTHSIDE YACHT CLUB
True to the neighborhood it resides
in, Northside Yacht Club has never
fit into one category. The nautical-
themed gastropub is described as a
dive bar (it’s too clean for that), a tiki
bar (it’s too cool for that), the best
wing joint in the city, a great music
venue, and plenty more. So it’s no
surprise it excels at brunch, too. The

47
I L LU S T R ATI O N BY VA LERII A P OTA I C H U K / I CO N BY J EN K AWA N A RI
 BREAD HEAVEN
These four spots go above and beyond your run-of-the-mill doughnut joint. —Kane Mitten

Divine! The Baker’s Table Bakery

The Baker’s Table Bakery is the sister restaurant to the award-
winning The Baker’s Table, featuring delectable pastries and
locally sourced espresso in the mornings. But the biggest
draw is the bread. The sourdough bread, made in-house daily,
makes any sandwich taste better, and frankly, it’s ridiculous
how much flavor The BTB manages to extract out of some-
thing as simple as toast. The breakfast menu may look small,
but make no mistake: It is mighty.
1001 Monmouth St., Newport, (859) 261-0125,
bakerstablebakery.com

All Hail the Biscuit Bagel Brothers Paris Baguette

The owners of Milford BBQ favorite Pickles & Bones
shifted in a different direction for their second
restaurant. All Hail the Biscuit lives up to its name,
with biscuits in every single dish you could think
of. Biscuit doughnuts, cinnamon biscuits, brisket
The first thing you’ll notice when you walk into
Bagel Brothers is how good it smells. The next
thing you’ll notice is how dark and cozy it is, even
in broad daylight. After that, you’ll see how many
homemade options you have—bagels, croissants,
Picture a coffee chain with every single pastry or
bread you could ever think of ready and waiting on
rows and rows of shelves as you walk in the door,
and you’d have a pretty good idea of what Paris
Baguette is like. This South Korean bakery chain
SK Y TEX TURE BY SUTHISAK / STOCK . ADOBE .COM

biscuits, biscuit benedicts, biscuit sandwiches,
traditional biscuits and gravy, and more. In case
you’re somehow not there for the biscuits, they’ve
got traditional breakfast fare like frittatas and
pancakes, and a nice cocktail menu, too. But with
AHTB’s biscuits being the perfect level of golden-
brown flaky buttery goodness that you’d expect,
it’s hard to imagine ordering anything else.
877 OH-28, Milford, (513) 340-4811,
allhailthebiscuit.com
doughnuts, cookies, and pastries galore, with all
manner of possible sandwich toppings. The cream
cheese adorning each bagel is made in-house each
day with no additives or preservatives—as are the
chicken, tuna, and egg salads. Cheap, quick, and
delicious, just one bite of anything in this small
shop will make you realize this is a UC student
staple for a reason.
347 Calhoun St., Clifton, (513) 221-4000,
bagelbrotherscincinnati49.com
(the only location in Ohio) makes the grade by hav-
ing a gargantuan variety of items available for the
downtown consumer. There’s your regular dough-
nuts and croissants, sure, but the real surprise is
in the unexpected. Japanese rice pastries? Yep.
Chiffon cakes? Sure. Tiramisu tarts? Absolutely.
Feuillete au Chocolat? Why not?
100 W. Fourth St., downtown, (513) 399-5858,
parisbaguette.com

48
PH OTO G R A PHS BY H AT SU E / I CO N BY J E N K AWA N A RI
 The Baker’s f
Table Bakery’s
Multigrain
Sourdough