For models KBZ:U Section 4 - Part Replacement

14. After removing bearings, clean any coking or debris from both the rod and rod cap surfaces with a
non-metallic Scotch-Brite or similar scouring pad and solvent. Check for raised edges on machined
surfaces. All surfaces should be as clean and dry as possible.

Connecting Rod Bearing Installation

1. Check new bearing shells for handling
damage, scratches, burrs, and loose material
at the tabs. DO NOT RUB BEARING
SURFACE WITH FINGERNAIL. New
bearing shells and crankshaft crank pin
bearing surfaces must be absolutely clean. Fit
the tab of a new, dry half bearing shell into the
rod notch. NOTE: Where bearings are
identified with an ink pictograph,
connecting rod bearings and main
bearings are not interchangeable. DO
NOT put main bearings in a connecting
rod. Do not mix part numbers on an
individual main or connecting rod. Both
bearing half shells must have the same
part number. 1. Rod 4. Rod Notch 7. Dowels
2. Thoroughly inspect the crank pin for dings and 2. Rod Bushing 5. Bearing Shell 8. Rod Cap
3. Dowel Holes 6. Bearing Shell Notch
scratches. If needed, use an Arkansas stone
to dress dings and scratches (Norton Hard Tab 9. Rod Cap
Translucent Arkansas Stone, 3” x 1/2” x 1/2” FIGURE 4-35 Connecting Rod Bearing Installation
(76 x 13 x 13 mm), product number HF-43).
Lightly slide the stone around the
circumference of the crank pin surface to remove any high spots; do not slide it back and forth over
the length of the crank pin. After dressing, ensure the crank pin is clean and dry. If the crank is scored
around the circumference, use 600 grit emery cloth to remove high spots.
3. Apply clean, new lube oil liberally to the crank pin.
4. Fit the tab of the other bearing shell into the rod cap notch.
5. Attach the rod cap to the rod:
a. Rotate crankshaft to approximately outer dead center.
b. Carefully lower the connecting rod cap (WITHOUT BOLTS!) onto the crank pin. Verify rod bolts
are undamaged and free of dirt. Lubricate them per Appendix A, then place all four bolts into the
rod cap. NOTE: Ariel stamps throw numbers on all rod caps and rods. Install a rod cap
in the correct throw location with the stamped numbers facing up.
c. Rotate cap so the bolts align with the connecting rod bolt holes. Support the rod cap while
another person carefully pries the connecting rod towards the crankshaft until it bottoms out.
Align the rod cap dowels with the rod dowel holes and push the rod cap onto the rod with even
pressure. The rod cap fits onto the rod only one way. Do not force the rod cap onto the rod; the
dowels should slide into the rod holes without difficulty. After ensuring the rod cap seats properly
on the rod, snug all four bolts and pre-torque according to Appendix A.
d. Rotate the crankshaft until the throw is at its highest point and tighten all conn rod bolts to the
torque listed in Appendix A.

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 Section 4 - Part Replacement For models KBZ:U

6. Repeat steps 1-5 for all remaining connecting rods.

7. Measure each connecting rod bearing jack and thrust clearance as detailed in this document. If
clearance readings are not within tolerances of Appendix B, contact your packager or Ariel before
proceeding. NOTE: If replacing main bearings, continue to "Main Bearing Removal". If not
replacing main bearings, continue to Step 8.
8. Install spacer bars so the match mark is up and next to the spacer bar boss with the same mark.
Tighten all spacer-bar cap screws to the torque listed in Appendix A.
9. Account for all tools, equipment, supplies, and parts to ensure none are left inside the crankcase.
10. Examine top cover and side cover seals. If there is doubt about their condition, replace them. Oil the
O-ring and apply a light coating of corrosion inhibitor or marine grease to mating surface. Replace
top cover and crosshead guide side covers. Tighten all cap screws hand wrench tight.
11. Reverse lockout procedures.
12. After replacing bearings, thoroughly pre-lube compressor to ensure bearing lubrication and to help
remove foreign materials from the lube system.
13. Run the compressor according to the time intervals listed on the form in Appendix D. After each run,
shut down and remove the frame top cover. Measure main and connecting rod bearing cap
temperatures with a hand held thermocouple probe or infrared thermometer and record them on a
copy of the form in Appendix D. Complete the form and email or fax it to Ariel Field Service.
14. After each shutdown, visually inspect the crankcase for signs of excessive heat in bearing areas,
and babbitt or other debris. If any are found, find and correct the problem before continuing.

Connecting Rod Bushing Removal and Installation

1. Check crosshead pin to bushing clearance (see Appendix B). Determine pin wear by inspection.
Replace pin, if necessary.
2. To replace a bushing, file or hacksaw the existing bushing to reduce the tightness of the shrink fit.
From the inside diameter, file or saw across the length of the bushing to within 1/32 inches (1 mm) of
its radial thickness. It can then be easily drifted out. DO NOT file or saw into the connecting rod;
any bore damage renders the rod useless and requires rod replacement.
3. Use a hydraulic press in a qualified machine shop to install the new bushing. Do not hammer
bushing into place; it will distort the bushing bore.
4. Before installation, cool new bushing in a 95% alcohol and dry ice solution. Leave bushing in solution
long enough to reach the solution temperature, about -110°F (-80°C).
5. Position connecting rod on the press table so the chamfered edge of the rod bushing bore is on top.
Press bushing into rod bore. For ELP units with no drilled hole in the connecting rod, bushing hole
alignment is not critical.

CAUTION: Do not touch cold surfaces without proper protection. Alcohol is

flammable; use it only in open air or well-ventilated buildings. Avoid sparks and open
flame. Avoid alcohol vapors which may cause injury to nose and eye tissue. Do not
return solution to a closed container until it reaches room temperature or container
may explode.

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For models KBZ:U Section 4 - Part Replacement

NOTE: Thoroughly clean bushing and connecting rod to prevent dirt accumulation
between them. Immediately assemble them so the bushing does not warm and stick
before it is in place. If the bushing sticks, remove it by notching as in step 2 above.

Connecting Rod Installation

1. To install a new connecting rod, stamp match mark numbers matching the throw location on the tops
of the connecting rod and bearing cap (with bearing notches up). See FIGURE 4-36.
2. Check new bearing shells for handling damage, scratches, burrs, and loose material at the tabs. DO
NOT RUB BEARING SURFACE WITH FINGERNAIL. New bearing shells and crankshaft crank
pin bearing surfaces must be absolutely clean. Snap a new, dry half bearing shell into the rod and
rod cap with the bearing tabs properly located in the rod and cap notches. Turn the connecting rod
pin to the vertical position and oil crankshaft connecting rod pin bearing surfaces with new clean
lubricating oil, the same type used in the frame. Carefully lower the connecting rod cap (without
bolts) onto the pin.

NOTE: Connecting rod bearings and main bearings are not interchangeable. Connecting
rod bearings have a narrower groove or no groove at all. DO NOT put main bearings in
connecting rod bearing locations.
NOTE: Caps and rods are numbered by throw beginning with number one at the drive
end. For throw numbering sequence, see FIGURE i-1. Always install rods with numbers
up. Protect crank pin at all times. Be sure both bearing tabs are on top.
3. Verify rod bolts are undamaged and free of dirt, then lubricate them per Appendix A and insert all
bolts into rod cap. Rotate the cap and fit the connecting rod to the rod pin and snug the bolts, pulling
the cap and rod together evenly.
4. Reconnect rod and crosshead with pin. Install end plates, thru-bolt, and new lock nut. Tighten lock
nut to the torque listed in the Appendix A.
5. Follow the "Recommendations for Torque
Accuracy" in Appendix A to tighten connecting
rod cap screws to the recommended torque.
6. Place a turn indicator onto the wrench socket,
and slide the socket onto the bolt head. Turn the
indicator so the vial faces up with the bubble
centered, then tighten the indicator
thumbscrew. Turn connecting rod cap screws to
the angle recommended in Appendix A.
FIGURE 4-36 Typical Connecting Rod
7. Measure each connecting rod bearing to
crankshaft jack clearance and connecting rod
thrust (side) clearance (see "Connecting Rod Bearing Vertical Jack Clearance Measurement" and
"Connecting Rod Thrust (Side) Clearance Measurement" below). Record measurements on a copy
of the form in Appendix 1. If measurements are out of tolerance after installing new bearings, contact
your packager or Ariel before proceeding.
8. Reinstall spacer bars. All spacer bars are match-marked for proper location; reinstall them in their
original location. Tighten all spacer bar bolts to the torque listed in Appendix A
9. Examine top cover and side cover seals. If there is doubt about their condition, replace them.Oil the
O-ring and apply a light coating of corrosion inhibitor or marine grease to mating surface. Replace
top cover and crosshead guide side covers. Tighten all cap screws hand wrench tight.

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Section 4 - Part Replacement For models KBZ:U

Connecting Rod Bearing Vertical Jack Clearance Measurement

1. Turn the crankshaft pin of the desired throw to its highest position. For KBZ:U models, thread an eye
bolt into the connecting rod (see FIGURE 4-37).
2. Attach the magnetic base of a dial indicator to the crankshaft web adjacent to the connecting rod.
Place the point of the dial indicator against the top of the connecting rod near the center of the cap
seam.
3. Zero the dial indicator. Insert a pry bar into the eye bolt and pry against the frame to force the
connecting rod up until the dial indicator needle stops moving. While maintaining upward pressure,
note the reading.
4. Release upward pressure and push downward on the rod until the indicator reads zero again. If a
zero reading cannot be obtained, zero the indicator again and repeat steps 3 and 4. Repeat the
measurement process until the measurement returns to zero twice in a row to verify accuracy.
5. Repeat measurement process for every rod. If a reading is outside the tolerances of Appendix B,
contact your packager or Ariel. NOTE: Remove eye bolts, magnetic bases, dial indicators,
and pry bars after measurement.

FIGURE 4-37 Typical Connecting Rod Vertical Jack Clearance Measurement

Connecting Rod Thrust (Side) Clearance Measurement

1. Turn the crankshaft pin of the desired throw to its highest position.
2. Attach the magnetic base of a dial indicator to the side of the crankshaft web adjacent to the
connecting rod. Place the button of the dial indicator against the thrust surface of the connecting rod
(see FIGURE 4-38).
3. Use a pry bar to pry against the crankshaft web and thrust the connecting rod tight toward the dial
indicator (do not pry on rod cap). Release pressure and zero the dial indicator.
4. Thrust the connecting rod tight in the opposite direction until the dial indicator needle stops moving.
Release pressure and note reading. Repeat steps 3 and 4 to verify measurement accuracy.
5. Repeat the measurement process for every rod. If a reading is outside the tolerances in Appendix B,
contact your packager or Ariel. NOTE: Remove magnetic bases, dial indicators, and pry bars
after measurement.

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For models KBZ:U Section 4 - Part Replacement

FIGURE 4-38 Typical Connecting Rod Thrust (Side) Clearance Measurement

Crankshafts
The crankshaft is the heart of the compressor. With proper maintenance, it should provide years of
trouble-free service.

Oil Slinger Replacement

CAUTION: Do not touch hot surfaces without proper protection.

Although the slinger should last indefinitely with proper care, it may become nicked. To replace it:
1. Suspend the crankshaft as detailed in "Crankshaft Removal" and heat the slinger to about 400°F
(204°C). When it expands, it is easily removed.
2. Slide a minimum ½-inch (13mm) diameter rod through the new slinger. Do not mar slinger surfaces,
and be careful of its sharp outer edge. Suspend the slinger and heat it with a small torch. When it
reaches about 400°F (204°C), slip it over the drive end of the crankshaft. Hold the slinger in place
with high temperature gloves or two pieces of clean wood. Rotate it slightly to ensure squareness,
until it cools enough to shrink onto the crankshaft.

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Section 4 - Part Replacement For models KBZ:U

Main Bearing Removal

1. Remove top cover and spacer bars.
Spacer bars are compressor and 1. Puller Nut - turn
throw dependent. They are match- to pull bearing
marked with the throw position and cap straight up.
machined with a snug fit. After bolt 2. Rectangular
removal, spacer bars should Steel Bar
remove easily by hand with maybe a Clearance
slight resistance. A very loose or Hole:11/16 in.
tight fit indicates an unlevel frame, (18 mm)
softfoot, incorrect crosshead guide Length:35 in.
shimming, improperly adjusted (889 mm)
discharge bottle wedges, or pipe 3. Drill Hole
stress affecting the cylinder flange 4. Threaded Rod
fit. Correct any of these conditions Nominal Size:
before returning the compressor to 5/8 in. - 11
service. Length:17 in.
(432 mm)
2. Remove the four main (journal) 5. Lock Nut
bearing cap screws. Pull caps 6. Puller Hole
straight up to prevent damage to the 7. Crankshaft
dowel fit. If cap is tight, use a
bearing cap puller (see FIGURE 4- FIGURE 4-39 Main Bearing Cap Puller
39). Remove shells from main
bearing caps.
3. Remove main journal bearing shells from under the crankshaft one at a time. If needed, attach clean
nylon straps around the crankshaft and lift it 0.003 - 0.005 inch (0.076 - 0.127 mm) to lessen weight
on the bearings and allow easier removal. To remove, rotate shell under the crankshaft tab side out
first, by pushing or tapping with a non-metallic tool on the opposite side. Ariel provides an optional
tool (B-3340) to push the shell out. Do not damage crankshaft bearing surfaces. Replace with new
bearing shell, before rotating out the next main bearing shell.
4. If any coked oil is observed on bearing cap or frame saddle surfaces, contact Ariel for instructions.
Check for raised edges on machined surfaces. Verify all surfaces are clean and dry as possible and
no bolting is damaged.

Main Bearing Installation

1. Check new bearing shells for damage, scratches, burrs, and loose material at the tab. DO NOT
RUB BEARING SURFACE WITH FINGERNAIL. Keep the backs of shells dry and clean;
installation requires perfectly clean bearing shells. Install bearing shells in caps, and frame journals,
properly located in the tab notch, (rotate in the un-tabbed end first).
NOTE: Where bearings are identified with an ink pictograph, main and connecting rod
bearings are not interchangeable. Do not put connecting rod bearings in main bearing
locations. Do not mix part numbers on an individual main or connecting rod. Both
bearing half shells must have the same part number.
2. Apply a liberal amount of clean, new lube oil to crankshaft bearing surfaces.

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