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Standard Pipes

The standard exhausts were still 3tted when we got this bike. After 32 years
that's a good sign that it has been well cared for.
Unfortunately the rear silencers - which include the mid section and inner
header pipe - were corroded and the baBes were not worth saving.
We ruled out a 4:1 system, the bike is designed for pipes at each side and
looks unbalanced without them. The other obvious choice is a new standard
system (only £75 back in 1977) - unfortunately they have long since sold out
and production ceased. IF YOU HAVE ANY NEW Z650 SILENCER
COMPONENTS PLEASE CONTACT US.

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 Replacement Silencers

Word from the experts was that you could shorten the standard pipes and
graft on a replacement silencer. We searched everywhere and came up with
this nice pair.
They come with two reducing colllars and a chrome exhaust clamp. There is
also a basic rear hanger and 3ttings included.
We tried them against the originals and were very pleased with the likeness.
They do have more than one gas exit hole but so did Dunstall pipes in the
1970's
The 3ttings below are originals and do not come with them.

Strip Polish & Re-Chrome Needed

We then examined the rest of the system and decided to get the down pipes
stripped, polished and re-chromed. They 3t into a hole on the outside of the
long silencer section and they are marked with a 1 or 4 at the top depending

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 on which cylinder they serve.
The original centre link pipe takes a lot of road grit thrown from the front
tyre and the 3nish had suXered. This would need the same treatment.
There are heat proof exhaust joint gaskets at both ends of the mid pipe and
where each down pipe joins the main silencer.

New Shortened Header Pipes

There are various ways to join the new silencer onto the old system. We
wanted to use an internal joint which would be hidden by the chrome side
trims from the standard pipes.
First the silencers were removed, then the good parts had the chrome
stripped away. Our friends at MOTAD in Walsall came to the rescue and
added a new ]ared end which was a push 3t into the new silencers. The new
headers then joined the other parts (above) for chrome plating by our friend
Graham at ACF Howells in Walsall.

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 Headers & Gaskets etc.

Here's what came back from plating, alongside the exhaust joint gaskets,
split keepers and the original side shields - which would hide any signs of the
joint.
Note the two 3xing points for the heat shields on the side of the mid-
section. The special chrome pan head screws that hold these on have to be
very short to prevent damage to the pipes.

Mystery Package!!

So here we have the new silencers, which have been joined to the standard
inner header pipes.
The box contains all the heat shields, clamps, gaskets, and split keepers
which have been kept safe whilst the bike has been rebuilt.
It's a great feeling to reach this stage in the restoration with March just a
week or so away. Perhaps it's time to cancel that SORN now.

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 New Exhausts Rear View

So here it is then - the Holy Grail of Z650 restoration - a complete new

standard exhaust system.
Well as near as Zedrider could get it anyhow!
The mid section is actually a new old stock item. It came with the new gasket
3tted at each end which is a good bonus as they are expensive on their own.
RESULT!
Perhaps one day someone will start to make new reproduction exhausts for
Z650 and Z1000 - the same as the do for H2, Z1 and CBX etc.

New Exhausts Side View

We were also pleased to get two new old stock heat shields to go onto the
side of the pipes and cover the new joint we made. You can see from these
shots that it is easy enough to attach the standard Z650 rear exhaust

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 brackets to our new silencers. They have an elongated hole to take a captive
bolt - so they can probably do Z1000 etc. as well. Ask if you need
measurements.
The black brackets were re-3nished and we used new stainless captive bolts
& nuts as they are hard to get at once 3tted to the bike.

New Exhausts Front Close Up

You can see the two outer header pipes detached in this shot.
TIP - We 3tted the 1 and 4 outer header pipes seperately to the bike - after
the main assembly and inner headers had been installed. It makes the
operation easier with less chance of damage to frame tubes etc.
But you can only do this if you can free up the outer header joint. This is
formed by a chrome clamp and the inner gasket - but after 30 plus years rust
may have taken up the role of superglue so be careful!!

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 New Chrome Header Clamp

We were lucky enough to 3nd a brand new pair of Kawasaki chrome header
clamps.
Here's one of them - just escaped from the bag after 30 years - complete
with perfect number 7 headed bolt.
Bootiful!
Note the inner section of the header pipe sticking out to form the gasket
joint - all factory pipes were double skinned - this helps to stop the headers
going blue - unlike modern after market pipes.

Link Pipe Clamp - Zinc Plated

Our original link pipe clamps and bolts were solid. So they got de-rusted,
polished up and re-zinc plated.
Not to be outdone by the posh chrome outer clamps - they have got original
1978 number 7 bolts restored to perfect factory fresh condition.

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 Stainless Crimped Joint Cover

The Zedrider luck ran out here - and our bike has lost one of these joint
covers at some stage.
It will still be found in good condition on old broken exhausts because it is
made from stainless steel.
It 3ts over the weld and is crimped shut where the two dimples can be seen.
Lucky for us our welded joint was stripped, polished and re-chromed as part
of the new headers so it doesn't look too bad without the cover for now. But
we are looking for one!!
IF ANYONE CAN PUT US ONTO ANOTHER ONE TO MATCH THIS SIDE PLEASE
CONTACT US.

Rear Exhaust Hanger Bracket

Here's a shot to show you how well the standard bracket 3ts onto the new
silencers.

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 A special thin captive self locking nut goes in the bottom section of this
bracket - that will line up with the rear footrest bolt to support the back end
of the system. On one side the bracket is longer with a rubber for the main
stand to park on.
TIP - Ensure that the bracket is bent inwards at the back nearest the tail light
to hold the captive nut into place. If you don't do this your bracket will catch
the swinging arm as the gap between them is small.

Brass Locking Collets

We would not recommend welding the new rear silencer onto the re-
chromed front section - unless you are a total expert. We have tried a couple
of ways that involve non-permanent 3xing - a bit like a modern slip on end
can.
This is our favourite way. Use tin snips to cut a section of brass sheet into a
rectangle that will wrap once round the pipe and 3t between heat shield
bracket and the new ]ared end piece.
Then cut another section half as long.

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 Smaller Collet Before Tapping In

Fit the silencer over the ]ared end of the pipes and over the start of the long
brass collet - which you have wrapped tightly around the pipe.
Have the half collet sticking just under the full collet on the inside of the pipe
(more room as no shield bracket).
Once the full collet is twisted home level with the end of the new silencer
gently tap the half collet home from the inside of the pipe using a ]at edge
and hammer.
This action will tighten the full collet and provide a strong joint.

Both Collets In Place

Here you can see the 3nished eXect. It gives a surprisingly strong joint but
does allow the new silencer to twist on the mid section - useful to allow exact
lining up with rear hanger brackets and the footrest bolt.
You could add some exhaust paste if you wanted to but with the amount of

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 pipe inside the new silencer - and the direction of gas ]ow - it's really not a
problem and has gone through MOTs without a hitch.
TIP - we coat the exhaust gaskets and joints with grease to stop them seizing
up. This also traps carbon deposits and the exhausts can then "heal up" tiny
gaps themselves as you ride.

Frame Protection In Place

Check your exhaust studs are clean and lightly oiled. Make sure threads are
good as they are only 6mm and have to pull the headers into the copper
gaskets quite hard to squash them into a gas tight seal.
Do not re-3t the front fender yet as the header pipes may damage that new
chrome!
If it is in place we would cover the rear half with bubble wrap held in place
with rubber bands until after the pipes are 3tted.

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 Exhaust Clamps & Special Nuts

We cleaned up our alloy exhaust clamps by quickly dipping them in Proscale

650 rust dissolver and then brushing them to a low shine with a brass tooth
brush.
If you use these correct Kawasaki exhaust manifold clamp nuts they come
with a seperate plain washer attached to the base of the nut. Much easier to
handle in a tight place.
You can now 3t your copper exhaust gaskets to the cylinder head. We used
the old trick of 4 little blobs of grease to hold them in place before the pipes
are ready.

Pipes Ready to Fit

It doesn't really matter which side you 3t 3rst. But when you 3t pipes 1 & 2
you must pre- 3t the side heat shield.
This is because the side stand bracket will block access to one of the heat
shield fasteners once the pipes are mounted. We've forgotten that a couple
of times and it is really frustrating!!
TIP - Get some cling 3lm around the top of the header before 3tting. This will
prevent the new chrome getting scratched by the split keepers and manifold
clamp - and give you somewhere to park the clamp whilst you get the
keepers into place.

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 Pipes 3 & 4 Fitted

We pre-3t the clamp and hang the header into it (cling3lm protects) and then
pull up the rear hanger bracket to engage the captive nut with the rear
footrest bolt.
Once that is engaged we push it forward and tighten it - otherwise the
header clamps will push it backwards - fouling the swinging arm.
Then we pull the clamp and cling3lm back to insert a pair of split keepers
before tightening evenly and wriggling to get the keepers into the correct
place on the copper gasket.
Once you are happy with pipe 3 the outer pipe 4 goes in as a follow up using
the same ideas.

Link Pipe & Clamps Fitted

Now one side is complete 3t the link pipe. We coated the entire inner link
pipe with waxoyl using a toothbrush - it sits at the low point of the system

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 and gathers trapped liquids and condensation. You must re-3t the two link
pipe clamps at this stage. The parts diagram shows them 3tted with the
clamp at the rear but we found that interferes with the main stand spring
etc. so we 3tted ours like this.
TIP - Apply a good smear of grease to the gaskets that are inside the ends of
the link pipe - and also to the incoming silencer pipes. You never know when
they might have to come apart again.

Original System Restored

Once the second side is attached you can remove the protective frame
wrapping and tighten up all the clamps. Don't forget the rear footrest bolts
which hold the rear silencer hanger bracket. Your main stand will now park
on the rubber so lose the wrapping!
TIP - The rear footrest bracket bolt needs a lock washer - otherwise it will
project too far and catch the swinging arm.
Get the chrome cleaner or wax out and get all those greasy 3nger marks oX
that fantastic new exhaust system. Then you get a well deserved cup of tea!

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 New Silencers or Old?

Here's the 3nished eXect. We hope you agree that the replacement silencers
look really close to the originals at the top of this page.

If you would like to order a new boxed set of replacement silencers for
your ride please contact us for measurements, postage costs etc.

DON'T FORGET ZEDRIDER IS ALWAYS LOOKING FOR NEW Z650 EXHAUST

SYSTEM PARTS. Let us know via the Useful Contacts page
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