POCKETS

Pockets can be functional or just for show, and

are essential on some items of clothing. Making
a pocket requires a littIe patienCe , but the finished
result is well worth it.
238 POCKETS

POCKETS
P""l"t eome in /otl ofi
"t-rrp"rand
formats. some, such as patch pockets, paper bag
pockets, and jetted pockets with a flap, are extemal and can be decorative, while others, including

foont hip pockets, are more discreet and hidden from view. They can be made from the same fabric

as the garment or from a contrasting fabric. Whether casual or tailored, all pockets are functional.

DIRECTORY OF POCKETS

tr tr
PATCH POCKET PAPER BAG POCKET WEtT POCKET WEIT POCKET ON JETTED POCKET
(pp.239-2a21 G.2a3) b.2aa) IROUSER BACK (p.245) WITH A FLAP (pp.246-247)

IN.SEAM POCKET FRONT HIP POCKCT CHINO POC(FI KANGAROO POCKET

(pp.248-2491 (p.2so) (p.251 ) (p.252)

HOW T0 APP|Y A tUSlBl-t lNItRtA(lNG p.54 , PATIERN MARKING pp.82-83 HAND SIII(HES pp.9f9l
 POCKETS 239

O$rti,,lty lu,nl
qg*g[ll
J N LIN ED PATCH POCKET
..rtlined patch pocket is one of the most populal types of pocket. It :an be found on
. :',--:nts of at1 kinds and i:e made from a wide variety of fabrics. On l',gntweight fabrics,
. as that used for a shirt pocket, interfacing is not required, but on :.:rediurn and heavier
:s it is advisabie to apply a fusible interfacing.

Ov-^rlock or Fold the top of the pocket

ii
Ifneeded, apply
an inter-facing to zigzag strtch down, folding where
lhe pocket fabric. the edge to neaten indicated by the tailor's tacks

Mark the fold Strtch dou,,r

WRONG SIDE lines with the sides of llle
OF POCKET iailor's tacks. RIGHI. SIDE
oF PocKET tumed down ro:.

Remove Turn lhe ia

Stitch a long machrne stitch
lhe top edge over :
rhrough the comers.
comer. rvrong sicc

-""-_\
\ 1n the cuii'€.
\ RIGHI SIDE tighten. Press
{
OF POCKEI -) WRONG SIDI
OF POCKET

\ *\ ) \
\-_
\
Tnm away lhe fabriCin the
I.
I
'r),/
- \+--------\
\-{---J
\ I \.
I
T-:l
Uiael
curued eog:.

seam allor'vance in the cuwes I

Tack
through the
bottom edge and
curves to secure.

Using a NIGHI SIQE

hemngbone OF POCrcT
stitch, hand stitch
the iop edge to the
wrong side of
the pocket.

SEAM NEAIENING p.95 REDU(lNG SEAM BUL( pp'1 08-1 09

240 POCKETS

SELF.LINED PATCH POCKET Odl*@ Lunl slggtll

.. .- :arch pocket is to be seif-Iined, it needs to be cut with the top eos. :- -:: :::<et on a fold.
--::e an unlined pocket, if you are using a lightweight fabric an interfa: :--_t :--1-,' al: be required,
,..:-..:eas for medium-weight fabrics a fusibie interfacing is advisable .- ::-:-,-:-=: :atCh pOCket
-s a3t suitable for healy fabrics.

Cut the pocket fabnc :--t.: \' r Remove

... and apply a fusible bulk from
" interfacing, ifneeded. I the comers
: :]i by tnmming.

I fold the pocket in half,

nght side to right srde.
I, Pin to secrrre

Trim one side ofthe :rrcugh the

. seam allowance ::ie Press
down to half its mdth.

Use pinking shears to :- -r: gap in the

lrim the comers ..: . .. i.. iel1 or
, - -:- -:l:rocket
: -- t.:-;ched

'.!.e,t@,

LINED PATCH POCKET 2$/*,/ty Lunl 88888

if a self-lined patch pocket is likeiy to be too bulky, then a lined pocke:
acivisable to interface the pocket fabric.

Cut the pocket fabric and apply Stitch around the Remove the
interfacing. Cut the lining fabnc. The other lhree open sides comers.
,ning will be shorter than the pocket fabnc Press the pocket- of the pocket to attach the
seam open. iimng to the pocket fabr:c.
)r
I

TIilI _: t

,l
Place the lining top edge to the upper edge
I Bring the ,'
Use pinking shears to
: boltom edges
cf the pocket and machine together. Leave trim lhe crrrues
of the pocket
a gap of about 3cm (1Zin) ln the seam for
together.
.:ming through.

H0W T0 APPLY A FUSIBI-E INTERFA(lNG p.54 HAND SIII(HES pp.90-91 SIlI(HES MADE \! 'N ,l MA(HINE pp.92-93 REDU(lNG StAM BUtK pp.l 08-l 09
 POCKETS 241

ft TLrm through the gap

3 l-^ft in the seam to the
nght side. Press.

*E .? The lined parc:

tCIx"T*1*':1,:1" -E- A nocket is reaii-
fell or blind hem strtch to be aitached.

SQUARE PATCH POCKET o$fi*,lyL,n/8f,)

-: :s possible to have a patch pocket with square corners. This requires mitring the corners
:: reduce the bulk. Use a fusible interfacing on medium-weight fabrics.

tr)Fold over the upper

I irre"{actng.'f -eeded. Nealen 4 edge and stitch
re upper edge of the pocket with down the sides.
:verlock o" zigzag slitcning.

It Fold in the other

J three edges and
press to crease.

a/l
Remove the
.& top comers.

,f Stitch the crease lines . :tr Cutoff thesum.:. -=::--

t. Fold in the bottom S together in each bottom d hen press the c:::-.=: .:=::
) .o*..r, then fold comer to mitre rt. open with the trp o: --re -:::
across these to grve
creases for the mitres.

C Tum the edges d1 Th=:-:--=:.=:

() of the pocket J poc<e: := :. - .,

to the wrong side. ready io-:: z----a--:

=-

MIIRID (0RNERS p.259

_ r a I ^ ^. :-c

ATTACHING A PATCH POCKET O$fi*,lty ln,nl ffI"",-J

: ...: - - r. : ocket successfully, accurate pattern marking is essent . . ihis
means
bV
: -. , -. -. -..ks or even trace tacking. If you are using a check or str r.cket fabric must
. --:-- :re checks or stripes on the garment"

Mark the pocket

placement lines Io make sure the
on the garment wrth pockei remains in
tailor's tacks. Lhe coffect position,
tack aroLrnd lhe edge
along the sides and
Take the completed boj tcm. Keep ihe
pocket and place it to racking strlches close
the fabnc, matching the to the f,nished edge of
comers with the tallor's the pocket.
tacks. Pin ln position.

Machine stitch Altematively, the

about 1mm (-r1:in) pocket can be hand
from the edge of strtched in p1ace, ustng
the pocket. a slip hem stitch into
the undersrde of the
pocket seam. Do noi
pul1 on the thread too
Remove the tacking tightly or the pocket
stitches. Press r.vill wnnkle.

Att t t t y#81&k-
REINFORCING POCKET CORNERS UqJrticulty /2vq1 {gi*'*-:- ;
l:- patch pocket it is essential to reinforce the upper corners as
a:r-,' = ..-- :iie strain when
,--,: )ocket is being used. There are several ways to do this, some of '.' : .-:: decorative.

REVERSE STITCH h DIAGONAL 5TITCH

Rernforce the This is a technique used pnmanly

comer with a on shirts. When machrning the
reverse stitch. pocket in p1ace, stitch along
Make sure the horizontally for lour stitches.
stitches lie on
top of one another.

Pull the threads Tr-rm and stitch diagollally

. to the reverse back to the side, to create a
to tie off ' d gl,lar 'laPe ,r rhe (o'n'r

ZIGZAG STITCH ku PAUltel AGZAG STITCH

. Using a sma11
zigzag stitch,
Usmg a sma-
width 1.0 and length
1.0, stitch diagonally
zigzag stitcr.
width 1.0 and
across the comer.
': :
Iength 1.0,
Xlake a feature machine a
of this stitch by shoft veItical
using a thread in a line next to the
contrasling colour. straight stitchirrg

PATTERN MARKING pp.82-83 IA(KING STIT(l.lES p.89 HAND SIlI(HtS pp.90-91

-
PC',. : ,/.-:

,APER BAG POCKET O$/*,ltyL*,W*

.:: pocket is so-named because it resemi:1es a paper bag. It is fou-nd on cargo trousers

- also bags. The pocket is attached to the garment with a gusset, wh:ch is a straight
, : of fabric. A paper bag pocket is irest made in a light or rnedium-u,eight fabric.

Place lhe gusset to the

First neaten
ihe upper Fold under the ends
-age of the of the gusset and
::rket. Fold it match the ends to the
pdoe of the nocket
twice,
.,,,er
raking a double
::m. Siltch along - -L
1'9. e o
re edge close the pocket along the
: lhe fold. sides and bottom.

Clip lhe seam allowance

in the crrrves.

I
Piace ihe
Ir. ;--'
iri :
6{M-*
lacked edge ,: j-
to the garment.
'',,1
Match the edge S
to the tailor rack
martings on the
I-7q..:'
Tum under lhe raw
edge of the gusset. gairnent. Prn.
i.4i.re the comers. Tack
io secure.

At the top
sim&*:
t
edge, pleat
lhe gusset under the
*.L
:dr\--:'- '-
Machrne the edge pocket and place
cf the gussel io the the top corner I
gament. Sijlch close of the pocket and
io the folded edge. gusset together.

Stitch diagonally
Remove across the upper
the tacking comers through the
pocket, gussei. and
garment Leave the
/--'- 'a :.: lower curued
/r edges loose.

SIII(HINGT0RNERSAND(tlRVESpp.l02-103 REDU(llli3:i-"' l-- :c

241 r l:<:TS

WELT POCKET O$jr,,/ty lnun/ *$&ffi

-.= pocket
: :::i.t lea.tures a small, straight flap that faces upwards on a
-: - .: :.r-rd the flap.This kind of pocket is found on waistcoats :
- ,.: - r: ::tet-r's jackets, as well as being used on coats.

inr-erfacing lo
the lvell. Foki it in
hall nghr side to
nghr: side, matching
lhe tailor's tacks.

RIGHT SIDE RIGHT SIDE

OF FABRIC OF FABRIC

Mark the placement Tum the Align the lop of the welt
Fo d
lines on the main welt to with the toP hne of tacks
fabnc using lrace tacks. :re right side \4achine along the lower line
and press. of lacks. Tnm arvay the bulk.

- 1:e lJachine the

:-.= ,i:llng .:ring over
:- - :-rer the rne weli. The
r -;::f Side ,rpPer ro-','"'of
.:: n-raclimng will
'5e
. ?Tan shorter than
,1--em the lc..'.;er row,
prooucrng
angled srdes.

:t

"i Slash
:hrough
";:.. the centre of
ihe machine-
sttched box.
-fack Slash lnro Pull the remaining ltning
the lining in
place over the welt the comers. thrcugh from the wrong side

Cn the "\'s,'1..*;irt;tt:],r,.;ji*a-,.t,'t
' a:t{ l rtjr.t:
reverse, bring t''
:-: .ining together
-:-: machine around
.. ..ge to make the
: ::<et bag.

RIGHT SIDE
WRONG SIDE OF FABRIC
OF FABRIC

H0\! I0 APPTY A FUSIBLE INTIRFA(lNG p.54 PATTTRN MARKING pp.82-83 IACKING 5Il;(-:! p'89
-
POCK:-S 24 5

WELT POCKET ON TROUSER BACK O$/i,"ly L,el *Wl

-. ',velt pocket on the back of a pair of trousers features a slim, elegani we1t. For this reason,
: s construction is slightly different and you wiii need to reinforce the frnished welt with
.:-tches on the right side.

Reinforce the wrong side of Fold the welt in half Machine:l:

the pocket area with lusible lengthways, wrong lacked sri:::
interfacing (not shown on these side to wrong side. Press the tailor's lacl<s
samples).

On the nght side, mark Place the welt

. para11e1 stitchrng lines for on lhe lower
the welt according to your stitching line
paitem with tacks. lvith the raw , t.
-.1 /"
edges at the top. ; I --,,./
Apply fusible interfacing to Align the tailor's
the lvelt. Use tarlor's tacks iacks wlth the
to transfer the dot markrngs lower stitching PIGHT S'DE
EIGHI SIDT
OF FABRIC on the welt pattem. 1ine. Pin in place. OF FABRIC

Machine both the pocket

Place lhe pocket fabnc fabric and lining in place
on the upper strtching along the marked stitching lines.
Iine and pin in place.
RIGHT SIDE anc €_..:
OF FABRIC
leng-:' .
rvel. l:
ACI'::
Place the pocket hning
on the lower slilching
hne over the welt. Prn " -**--.$ t
in place.
RIGHT SIDT
OF FASRIC

on the wrong side, lh rua

slash through the
centre of the well. .

r._.. t'l
\ 4.
- .'&q" shcr .::- -:.

Slash into the ihe ':.-r :..

comers as shown
WRONG SIDE
OF FABRIC
WSONG SIDE
OF fABRIC

Fold the pocket

fabnc down onlo
the pocket lining. Stitch
l-..*-*-.--*,+.- the iwo pocket sections
together on three srdes
to make a pockel sack or
bag. Make sure you catch
in lhe tnangle end of the
slash ano lhe end of
the r.r'e ts.
\: -t
rim the corners RIGI.IT SIDE
TIGTIT SIDE
oF rAERrC -o red.rce bulk. OF FABRIC

STIT(liES MADE WITH A MACHINE pp.92-93

24 6 'CCKETS

JETTED POCKET WITH A FLAP O$ji""fiy 1,n188888

. :..: :_.=e of pocket is found on taiiored jackets and coats and men's -.'.': .: :::r.i:iiorward
----^*--1.^+\
:--:-<e. The main components are the welts (the strips that make t:= - _-= -]LKCL/,

: :,=:. and the lining that makes the pocket bag.

:.: . : -a(e the upper welt.

'frj Place
., the right
- ::-'.' :;sible interfacing side of the
:.='.'.'::rg siOe. lining to the right
side of the flap.
Pin, then machine
? around three sides,
leaving the top
edge open.
Folci in half lengthways,
wrong side to wrong side. :i-' Remove the
Tack down the centre to secure '.i rau.i. from the
bottom comers.

Tum:he flap
ihrough to the nght
side. Press. \4ake sure
the lining does not
shorv on :re nght side.

Cn the welt, tnm the raw

lfyou like,iop-stitch
edge of the seam allowance
the flap around
-:'.'.;r :o half its wrdth.
the ihree sides.

Place the welt to the right side of -! .r; Place the right
the pocket. Aligr the raw edges. Make .i-- --L. side of the welt
sure the welt overhangs the flap by equal and flap to the right
amounts at each end. side of the garment.
Match the ends of the
flap to the upper row
of tailor's tacks on the
garment. Pin in p1ace.

: Machine "1 ff Machine to the

tooether J- d* garnent along
through the centre the strtching line that
of the welt. rs holding the welt and
flap together.

'. Make up the -s f^1,^

-.B j*, Id[c +L^
Llrs
. . lower welt in i.li lining and
lhe same fabnc as the press in ha1f, right
upper welt. side to right side,
matching the tailor's
Place the tacks, to produce a
.,. , lower welt to centre crease.
the garrnent below the
upper welt and flap.
'* 'Ts Place the right
i I side of the
'.:' Machine stitch
lining over the welt
' in place. Make and flaps, matching
sure the two rows of the tailor's tacks. The
stitching are exactly the crease iine should be
same length. Also make
sittrng between the
sure the stitching lines
two welts. Pin in place.
are parallel.

H0W T0 APPTY A FUSIBLE INTERFA(ING p.54 PAIIERN MARKING pp.82-83 TA(KING STIT(HE5 p.89 STlT(liES MADE WIItl A MA(HINt pp.92-93 REDU(lNG SEAM BULK pp.l08-l 0-t
-
POCKETS 247

Tack the lining in 'vl,br-<,:- : :: :

position. Keep the.'.'r-:... --

the tacking stitches machine the .-:-:: . .:

about 1.5cm (%in) from placebystil..--:.. - .

the tailor's tacks that the stiiching..rr=, r..
mark the welts. are holding u: .'.'-..,
in place. The -.'. , : :
ofstrtchrngs:.,- ,.:.
exactly the sir:' : :t .
Secure atbc::. =: :,

Or::=
s.aS' :
thefaDnc:: :

galTnen!. -.:
Tum to the dght should c;. ::
side and remove the fa::: .: -
lhe tacking. welts c: i ..:.

+'!-**--*-.d

Slash through
'*,1 h^l'ni.C
along the pressed crease tne sr-

line. Cut through to the

edge of the lining.

lining
Pu1l the
lhrough the slash
lo the wrong side. Push
through the ends of the
we1ts. The pocket flap
will tum down.

To make the
pocket, Pul1 the
ends of lhe welts out
arvay lrom the slash
1ines. A small triangle
of fabnc should be on
top of these we1ts.

Strtch across
lhe welts and
the iriangle and around
lhe pocket. Use pinking
shears io neaten the
searns on the lining.

JEITED P0(KET pp.338-33 a

218 :OCKETS

o$/*,rty L,nt8888s'
IN.SEAM POCKET
. ,:., ,.s.rs and skirts, the pocket is sometimes disguised in the sean-' '
. . :::r:aking an in-seam pocket, eitherby adding a separate poc{=:
, :-=i s::ape being cut as part of the main fabric'
) sepanntr IN-5EAM PocKET
Place the
FNONI PIECE Machine the
tt back sectron
OF GARMENT oocket rn
of the garment
:' a.: an , piace using a
to the front, nght
1cm (l/rin) seam
side to right side.
1 allowance.
just Match the seams
Stitch
a.a

ti together above
between the
i! and below
1,1
tailor's tacks. .

t-:
the pocket.

'i
"7

.;
Repeal the
aaten lhe
i;
process
: arght edge for the back of
:cckel. the gament.
t-,
/
2

II
a
a

,
Stitch a 1.5cm (%in) seam to;otn
Place the pocket to the
Cpen lhe Pockel -
the front and back of the garnent
garment, nght slde to nght rless the seam i.
together. Make sure the seam stitching
srde. Match the tailor's tacks and
the pocket.
ex e' d5 Pas' ."e oo-kel sri''f'ng
.he neatened edges. Pin in P1ace. before stopping.

Strtch around the Neaten the

pocket to joln the :aw edges of
two pieces together. StoP
the stitching for the
pocket at the Pocket-to
gament stitching 1ine.
the pocket.

, Il
...,"'*"1./-
tr'i
s
c
-nf
;' .'i
.'r Ll
-..t i i
i-o li
:.j :i
4'
,t
- =l
Z',
'.'
'rl
>i.
+l-
--!- t
.j, u
1r
+, ."" 'd

."r,-t....,..,. rt €

_.)f i
1

::. On the nght side, the Pocket

Press the seam
opemng is discreet.
towards the fror: ,

pp.82-83 IA(KING Sill(":! p'89

H0W T0 APPLY A FUSIBLE INT[RFA(|NG p.54 PATTERN MARKING
II
POCKETS 249

> ALL.IN.ONE IN.SEAM POCKET

Apply a piece ot
fusible interfacing
along the pocket opening
on the front section of \: I

the gament, to Ii
strengthen. ),
---{= ,

..1'
,.r1
t

+j

Inseft tailor's tacks

to indicate the
pockel opening.

FRON' PIECE
OF GARMENT I

Stitch the back and front together with Strtch around the Pocke: -
Place the back and front of the galrnent
a 1.5cm (%in) seam allowance, above join the two pieces. Stat
logether, dght side to nght slde Tack the
and below the pocket opening. Stop the and inish the stitching ai t.:
r-JCket opening closed over the rnterfacing,
stitching at the tailor's tack pornts. tailor's tack points.
:lrching between the tallor's tacks.

Clip the seam allowances above ano

Remove the tacklng on the Thrs is how lhe
oelow the pocket extenslon.
interfacing. Press the Pocket all-rn one pocke
towards the front. Looks on the right sicie
BACK PIECE
OF GARA{ENI

(& Flgt{r PIECE

OF GARA{EN| ".',

1B
t /#

L
F
Press the seams Neaten the raw t
open. Neaten edges of the seam
H
le edges ofthe
.eamallou'ances.
allowances on the
pockettogether.
I d H

SEAM l{tATENING p.95 REDUCING SEAM BUtli pP.'l 08-'00

2 5O ]CCKETS

FRONT HIP POCKET D$f*.ly L,/ slgw

. :r-.::rt trousers and casuai skirts, the pocket is placed on the hlplir:: : -o,,r.- on the
. ..'j--rr. or cut quite high as on jeans. The construction is the same fo: = :: ::,: pockets
:.::: :rserted at an angle, hip pockets can slim the f,gure.

,::-'.- a prece of fusible tape on the Place the \,{achrne the limng rn
...:r'r::n: along the line of the pocket pocket lining place taking a 1.5cm
to the lront of the i'r!,in) seam allowance.
gannent, nght
side to right
side. Match any
noiches that are
on the seam. Trim the lining
Pin in p1ace. side ofthe seam
allowance down to
half its width.

Open out the

pocket and
WRONG SIDE OF press the seam
RIGHT SIDE OF
GARMENI FRONT GARMENT FTONT towards the lining.

1m the lining Take the side

:: lhe insrde. Pockei front section
:r'=.s so that the that incorporates
::-:rg is not nsible
::l:ie oulside.
bog
- I the pocket bag
and place to the
lining pocket
sectron, right
Top slitch
side to nght side.
5mm ('/rsin)
Match any seams
:::m the edge.
and tailor's tacks.
Pln in p1ace.

RIGHT SIDE OF
On the right side of ::.- ..-r WRONG SIDE
GARMENT FRONI pocket bag along th: : - ,:- OF GARAlENT

'' . Machine the pocket bag -'; The angled

' ..: together using a 1.5cm ...-- front hip
a1l seam allowance. Press. ? pocket from the
c right side.
d
5
a
x
1- t
7
,,,1

E
I
,
It
Ilr

1.

..{ a
:
:

H0W I0 APPLY A fUSlBtE INIERFACING p.54 SIIT(Ht5 MADt WIIH A MA(HINE pp.92-93 H0il T0 MAKE A PLAIN SEAM p.94
 POCKETS 2 5 I

CHINO POCKET Odl*,|1,,/ 888fr)

Ihis is the style of pocket found on the front of chino trousers and jeans, but it can also be
rylied to skirts. The pocket is sometimes curved in shape rather than angular, as shown here.
ttis pocket features a facing, which gives it a neat f,nish at the opening edge.

al Tack the oocket

{ Apply fusible interfacing
.5 facing right side up
I to the wrong side of
.." to the pocket lining.
the pocket facing. ---.

4Hi,l,T$:.i",tt
the bottom edge oniy,
next to the neatened edge.
al Neaten the raw edge
'. Z along the bottom of Pocket lining
the facing.

F Place the oocket facinq f Clio into the comer

) and lining rlght side tJ " O ani along the top of
right slde on the trouser or
..

,the seam. 8ilffi,f,'il:HS

skirt front. Stitch together wrong side. Press in place.
aiong the top edge

7Hftff*
of the seam to
---- half its width.

4 A Stitch the side seam

On the right side of the

103#*:"ffi,'"::'L"J*" IZ together, ttrrough the
Q pocket fabric over the facing skirt and pocket, using an
J garment, top-shtch usmg
. and lining. overlock or zigzag stitch.
a 3.0 stjtch length. The seam is left loose in
order to allow
extra room for
the pocket. -..
11:X"':X.
the pocket sack to
join the iining to
the pocket fabric.

Pocket fobric

STITIHING C0RNERS AND (URVES pp.l 02-03 . SIIT(H tllllsllE pllt

:
 KANGAROO POCKET 2gfiu,by **t *N88l
:ii.: that is often found on
-- :alf version of this pocket

=> Tum under lhe curued edges

of the pocket lo lhe wrong
side. These will be the turo
Press the .
rocket opemngs. and mach
"."_ _,,***\ ro ^ e

J
E\it*
#u
*f \.""\
-c-
.''"'6* \
F,.:::.,:'r WRONG SIDE
OF POCKET
fie off the €la: :. :: ,-.*
u:rr txrD/r+r:r/;lr;i Iit$r,f tm'r'r1t,j!!!rlr$t 1l
neatening a: -:-.: :::'l:rs !r1rn, ffi aErilf

- rm under all the remaintng

r-.e Docket lo the gament,
:rges ofthe pocket to the : .:re of the pccket to righl side
. --e po k' s
'.','rong side. ]f lhe fabnc is bu1k7, = . V"k- .ro
ml:re tre comers. Press tn p1ace. . rnc straight. Prn in p1ace.

fa
1/\
A
/.tu.,riu*ltluiilcuuurilE&\ ,rrr7
,{n
a7\
'}>-r\
^{
div
,#e
\: D \
iii wRoNG srDE E
Ji oF POCKET : t
,: rixir(ldltr*iijllta urtllluduxs.if, ftrl{il.1g;:,',."s1&#s
etcxl
OF POCKET
stoE

a&ririnl{I{&

Stitch the Strlch the shorl : _ I r'lers If requlred, stitch one

pocket along straight srdes lwo vertrcal lines dor'.'
the upper edge. and lower edge of lhe cenlre of the pocket, to
the pocket. Press. divide into two pockets. Pres:

RIGHT SIDE
OF FABRIC

"*
i

I'Gi{T SIOE
OF POCKET

H0W I0 APPI-Y A FUSIBtE INIERFA(lNG p.54 PAIIERN MARKING pp.82-83 IAtKING STITi-i- p.89 STIT(HES MADE WIItl A MA(HINE pp.92-93
-
POCKETS 253

MAKING A POCKET FLAP O$/*,/ty L,ul 88888.

purposes. The flap is
On some styles of garment, there is no pocket, just a flap for decorative
sewn where the pocket would be, but there is no opening under the flap. This is
to reduce the
bulk that would arise from having the rest of the pocket'

of'rle"aceo fabnc Dlace t

l-nirg aro a o'e e
the two pieces together, right side to right side .. I ,t1
1
1 .\
I \
\ \
r *'t4 t

\
\

,, n
I

"", St-rtch ihe pocket flap together a-::-:

5mo01h
three sides, using a 1cm (%in, sea::-
,-.,.:
allowa-ce. S iLc' hrough -re'a.-c:, ,',
cu rve stitched
i'i Match the tailor's tacks,
Leave the upper edge oPen.
;* then pin to secure.

Remove the fabnc '"tr' Tum the flap 1,. Press the lining
...;l Layer the seam
"",i allowance, tnmming lrom the pornt. ;r through to the right towards the bac,<
1i".",11

srde. Push out the Point so that it does noi sa:'.'

away the lining side.
Press a smooth curte

" Use pinking shears

,"
to reduce the bulk
::.,,,i
',, Strtch across the uPPer ::::
I edge to hold together.
through the curve. Press.

. .: "i: Place the :. u r Press the flap

into place.
-:i. ,,,,i
-:.. ':,,i flap to
Do not puIl too tight. to sec]r:
rhe garment, right
side to nght side.
Match the edges
of the flaps to the
railor's tacks on
the gament
...

.': ':: Itlachine in

...- .-i.. piace over
the stitching 1ine,
holding the gap - ."1. Reduce the seam
-,1
at the upper .i := allowance by
edge together. hall Press.

pp.l02-103 sTlT(H FINISHE5 p.109 REINF0R(lNG P0(KET (0P\:;: p.2r2

sTtI(HtNG (0RNER5 AND tURV[S