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VARANASI'S MANIKARNIKA GHAT: THE LANDSCAPE OF


TRANSITION
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e-mail: e-mail address

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Abstract. This research paper explores the multifaceted cultural layers of


Varanasi, one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Through an
interdisciplinary approach, it delves into the diverse religious, historical,
architectural, and social dimensions that shape the city's identity. Drawing on
historical records, religious texts, architectural studies, and ethnographic accounts,
the paper unravels Varanasi's rich tapestry of festivals, rituals, sacred sites, and
community practices. By examining the interplay between tradition and modernity,
the paper offers insights into how Varanasi's cultural heritage continues to evolve,
contributing to its enduring significance as a spiritual and cultural hub in India.

Key words: Manikarnika Ghat, Varanasi, Cultural layers, Cremation, Dom


community, Ahori, Festivals, city, people, history, ganga, Kashi Khanda, temples

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1. A title of at most two rows
2. Names of the authors and affiliation (institution, department, e-mail) on separate rows
3. Abstract of no more than 200 words.
4. No more than 5 keywords, following the abstract.

1. Introduction Cremation Ground" (‘Mahasmashana’ - Maha=


Varanasi, also known as Benares or Kashi, holds a great, smashana = cremation ground), considered
sacred status for Hindu cremations. Throughout the most sacred site for Hindus seeking salvation
history, cremations in Varanasi have taken place and liberation from the cycle of rebirth,
on open-air wooden pyres, where the body is commonly known as ‘Mukti Ka Sthaan’. In
traditionally incinerated using wood. These open- pursuit of this spiritual goal, numerous Hindus in
air ceremonies transpire on stepped platforms the final stages of life journey to Varanasi, where
lining the banks of the revered River Ganges, they await their passing. Upon death, they are
which gracefully flows through Varanasi. Locally, then cremated at the Manikarnika Ghat.
these platforms are known as "Ghats," with the
Manikarnika Ghat standing as the oldest and most Regrettably, due to the high volume of daily
renowned.However, the increasing prevalence of cremations at this Ghat, the relatively limited
open-air cremations is giving rise to several space becomes congested with mourners and
challenges, notably related to pollution, hygiene cremation workers, leading to issues of
concerns, overcrowding, and congestion. overcrowding and hygiene concerns.

When contemplating the Hindu tradition of


cremation, one's thoughts naturally gravitate
towards Varanasi's Manikarnika Ghat. This
research project centers around the "Great

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• KARC Journal• Vol. I • Feb• 2024

religious significance. Its significance in history


and culture is immense, since cremation at this
ghat is said to guarantee freedom from the cycle
of rebirth.

The socioeconomic complexity of the ghat is


highlighted in the paper. For many populations
involved in the cremation process, such as priests,
cremators, and labourers, it provides a means of
subsistence. Nonetheless, these populations
2. Aim and objectives frequently experience exploitation and economic
inequality. The discharge of non-biodegradable
Exploring the Concept of Death in Hindu debris and cremation ashes has contaminated the
Mythology and its Influence on Varanasi's Ganges River, posing serious environmental
Cultural Heritage: Acknowledging the profound problems for Manikarnika Ghat. These problems
connection between death-related stories, endanger the health of locals and visitors in
customs, and beliefs in Hindu mythology, this addition to having an impact on the ecosystem.
study highlights the significance of the ghats in The study emphasises how critical it is to update
Varanasi to the city's cultural legacy. Emphasizing Manikarnika Ghat's infrastructure and cremation
the city's historical depth these ghats become a procedures in order to solve environmental issues
captivating destination for those intrigued by and protect the public's health and safety. This
spirituality and history, offering a unique blend of entails using environmentally friendly cremation
techniques, managing waste appropriately, and
architecture, historical rites, and folklore.
making infrastructure upgrades. ( Ram, A. (n.d.).
Re-thinking the Manikarnika Ghat).
3. Literature review
According to the publication, Manikarnika Ghat
The core beliefs about the Manikarnika Ghat are is a hive of activity where cremation rites are
listed below. carried out nonstop. It draws attention to the
constant stream of visitors—both pilgrims and
The design will aim at conforming to these beliefs locals—who come to the ghat to watch the
to the maximum extent. ceremonies or carry out final rites, adding to the
vibrant ambiance of the place. The study explores
• At the final departure, the body should be
the economic dynamics surrounding Manikarnika
surrounded by the five elements (called the
Ghat through observations and interviews. It
“Pancha Bhootas” in Hinduism). These five
highlights the economic connection within the
elements are Earth, Water, Air, Fire, and Space.
society by examining the livelihoods of numerous
persons involved in the cremation process, such as
• The alignment of the funeral pyre should be in
priests, cremators, and workers. The research
the North-South direction. The Hindu God of
examines the spiritual experience that guests of
Death – Yama, is believed to come from the
Manikarnika Ghat can have. It explains how the
South to drag away the dead. • Doms crack the
atmosphere of the ghat and the rites carried out
skull (Kapal-kriya) towards the end of the
foster a deep sense of spirituality and reflection in
cremation, symbolising the soul's release from the
visitors, making a lasting impression. The study
confines of the physical body.
tackles environmental issues related to
Manikarnika Ghat while acknowledging its
• Wood prepared and given by a Dom is
spiritual significance and rich cultural heritage. In
considered auspicious and should be used to allow
order to maintain the sacredness of the Ganges
the dead to travel on the path of salvation.
River and the surrounding ecology, it draws
• Doms are the fire keepers, and they give the fire attention to problems like pollution and waste
to light the pyre during the cremation. . ( Ram, A. management and emphasizes the necessity of
(n.d.). Re-thinking the Manikarnika Ghat.) sustainable practices. Manikarnika Ghat appears
as a microcosm of the social fabric of Varanasi, a
For Hindus, Manikarnika Ghat is a sacred place place where individuals from all walks of life
where cremations are performed, and it has great congregate to engage in rituals, communicate, and

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build relationships. The ghat promotes a sense of divine Sati/Shakti, was subsequently
solidarity and community among its patrons by established at each location where her body
acting as a melting pot for various cultural parts fell. The Manikarnika Ghat, often called
backgrounds.( (PDF) [624.21-RB]. Singh, Rana the "Maha Smashaan" or the "great cremation
P.B. (2021), professor R.B. Singh ...)
ground," stands prominently along the holy
Ganges River in Varanasi
3 Methodology
This ghat is home to one of Varanasi's most
significant cremation grounds and the sacred
History tank where Lord Vishnu is said to have
performed his cosmic austerities. Positioned
I am Vishwanatha, the Lord. roughly midway along the Ganges, it marks a
pivotal point between the Assi and Ganga
Kashi is the Light of Liberation. confluence to the south, delineating the city's
southern boundary, and the Varuna and
Ganga confluence to the north, marking its
The waves of the River of Heaven are the
northern boundary.
wine of immortality.

What can these three not provide?

The excerpt is from the Kashi Khanda, a


section of the ancient Skanda Purana that
extols the convergence of three elements: the
Ganga River, Varanasi, and the Vishwanatha
Temple. This ancient text emphasizes the
significance of these elements, which hold a
prominent and revered place in Hindu belief
and practice in India.
According to scripture, the name
'Manikarnika' originated when the 'Mani' from
Shiva and the 'Karnika' from Parvati slipped
and fell into the bathing Kund. In the broader
context of Manikarnika, Shiva's decision to
uphold the duty of granting salvation is
significant. It is believed that at this ghat,  El Universo de la India: Obras
Lord Shiva personally guides the departing Maestras del Museo de Arte del
souls towards salvation by uttering the Condado de Los
"Taraka Mantra" into their ears. This belief Angeles. Santiago: Centro
forms the essence of the ghat, rendering it a Cultural Palacio La Moneda, 2012.
sacred site for cremation.
In India, cremation grounds are typically
According to another account, Mata Sati
located on the outskirts or beyond human
immolated herself when Raja Daksh
habitation, but in Varanasi, the Manikarnika
Prajapati, one of Lord Brahma's sons,
Ghat lies at the very heart of the city. Just as
attempted to disgrace Lord Shiva during a
India is considered the navel of the world and
Yagnya ceremony. Lord Shiva then carried
Varanasi the navel of India, the Manikarnika
Mata Sati's body towards the Himalayas,
Ghat is regarded as the navel of Varanasi.
where her body began to scatter on the earth.
Shakti Peeth, revered places dedicated to the
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• KARC Journal• Vol. I • Feb• 2024

Upon entering from the southern end, visitors The Manokameshvara Temple was
encounter large piles of wood of various types constructed in 1895 by Maharaja Mangal
and qualities used for cremation purposes. Singh of Alwar Estate, Rajasthan, atop his
Moving further along, one reaches the residential quarter. The temple consists of a
cremation platform where Dom workers and half-sanctum, half-pavilion, and a rectangular
Purohits perform their duties. mandapa, with intricately decorated porches
and images of Shiva, Ganesha, and Parvati.
Continuing through the area, visitors can Nearby, there is an open-air Maheshvara
reach the Manikarnika Kund, the original linga, and a temple leaning into the Ganga,
feature of this ghat. Legend has it that this which has remained unchanged since the
sacred tank was created by Lord Vishnu early 19th century. Close to it lies the
during the primordial ages of the planet. Chakrapuskarini or Manikarnika Kunda, a
Today, the Manikarnika Ghat facilitates up to sacred water pool. According to mythology,
200 cremations per day. the pool was formed when Vishnu's disc
(Chakra) created it, and it is also said to be
where Shiva's crest-jewel (Mani) and Parvati's
earring (karnika) fell. The Kunda is believed
Gohil, V. (2020, September 5). Manikarnika Ghat to be the world's first pool, filled with the
sacred water of Vishnu's sweat. A cast-iron
—The Burning Ghat of Varanasi. Varanasi railing surrounds it and undergoes excavation
and reclamation each year after the Ganga
Guru. recedes.

https://www.varanasiguru.com/manikarnika- Queen Ahilyabai Holkar also commissioned


the Tarakeshvara Temple in 1795. The
ghat/ temple, structured with six pillars at its base,
houses an image of Ganesha at the entrance
and a four-headed Shiva lingam in the inner
The Manikarnika Ghat, mentioned in the sanctum. The temple follows the Banaras
Matsya Purana dating back to the 6th-7th style of Pancayatana, featuring images of
century, is one of the five sacred water spots. Surya, Durga, Ganesha, and Vishe in the four
It holds cultural significance as a convergence corners. Tarakeshvara is worshipped after
point of Shaiva and Vaishnavite traditions. cremation rites, and it is believed to be a
According to legend, Vishnu meditated at this replica of a shrine north of Kolkata. The
site in a standing pose for around 500,000 nearby ghat, constructed around 1735 by
years to appease Lord Shiva, who eventually Bajirao Peshva, remains unfinished due to a
settled there. The ghat is also referred to as landslide caused by its weight. Queen
the "great cremation ground" and has been Baijabai of Gwalior attempted repairs and
described vividly in the Kashi Khanda. reconstruction in 1830, and she also built the
Historical records indicate its presence as far Ratneshvara temple in the Gujarati style on
back as the Gupta period, with stone stairs the bank, which remains unfinished.
constructed in 1303 and later rebuilt in 1730 Manikarnika Ghat sees over 30,000
by Bajirao Peshva. Queen Ahilyabai Holkar cremations annually, with about 28,000 at the
undertook a comprehensive reconstruction of ghat itself and the remainder at Harishchandra
the ghat in 1791, and further renovations were Ghat to the south. Cremation typically
carried out in 1872. In 1965, the government consumes around 500kg of wood per body,
of Uttar Pradesh initiated repairs and with each corpse registered at a nearby office
reconstruction efforts. before negotiations with the funeral priest
(Dom) for the sacred fire.

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The Varanasi Heritage Dossier/Manikarnika Ghat


RITUALS AND PRACTICES:
—Wikiversity. (n.d.). Retrieved February 7,
Both Rapoport's investigation into the
2024, from influence of cultural norms and rituals on
domestic spaces and the description of the
https://en.wikiversity.org/wiki/The_Varanasi_ cremation rituals at Manikarnika Ghat
underscore the profound connection between
Heritage_Dossier/Manikarnika_Ghat cultural practices and spatial settings.
Rapoport's research delves into how activities
such as cooking, sleeping, and religious
ceremonies shape the design and use of
domestic environments, reflecting broader
CULTURE cultural beliefs and values. Similarly, the
rituals performed at Manikarnika Ghat,
At the heart of the sprawling three-mile-long steeped in Hindu mythology and tradition,
expanse of Ghats, Manikarnika Ghat stands as demonstrate how sacred practices dictate the
a distinct landmark, distinguished by its spatial arrangement and ceremonial
billowing smoke, weathered facades, and proceedings of the cremation process. The
stacks of timber arranged both on boats and chanting, purifying dips in the Ganga, and
along the waterfront. Its architectural specific actions performed by the chief
vocabulary comprises a repertoire of typical mourner all contribute to a spatially
elements—bastions, balconies, alcoves, choreographed ritual aimed at facilitating the
gateways, pavilions, and platforms— soul's journey towards liberation. Both
manifested in varied sizes and materials, often contexts highlight the intricate interplay
combined in eclectic compositions. These between cultural practices, spatial
elements are arranged in an irregular pattern, configurations, and the sacred meanings
contributing to a dynamic visual rhythm that imbued within them.
harmonizes the intricate spatial composition.
The staircases, cascading down the streets and IMPLICATIONS FOR PRACTICE:
from elevated structures, add a compelling
cadence to the urban fabric. During the dry Rapoport's research on house form and
season, cremations take place on the exposed culture has practical implications for
silt bed, while the onset of monsoons architects, urban planners, and policymakers,
submerges the Ghat, necessitating the emphasizing the importance of culturally
relocation of cremation sites to higher ground. informed design processes that promote social
In times of extreme flooding, the Ganga inclusion, sustainability, and well-being. By
engulfs the temples and shrines situated at considering cultural practices and beliefs,
lower elevations, underscoring the dynamic designers can create environments that
interplay between the river's fluctuating resonate with the communities they serve,
waters and the built environment. While there fostering a sense of belonging and identity.
are universals, Rapoport also emphasized the Similarly, the cremation practices at
importance of cultural variation in house Manikarnika Ghat in Varanasi reflect the deep
design. He studied how factors like climate, cultural significance attached to rituals and
geography, social organization, and belief ceremonies. These practices, steeped in
systems shape the specific forms and layouts mythology and tradition, demonstrate the
of houses in different cultures. prepare a short importance of understanding and respecting
paragraph comparative analysis cultural customs in shaping built
environments. By incorporating such cultural

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• KARC Journal• Vol. I • Feb• 2024

insights into design and planning processes, deeply connected to their myths and history,
practitioners can create spaces that not only which strengthens their identity
meet functional needs but also enrich the lives
of their users, fostering a deeper connection to In contrast, the Ahori community's identity is
place and community. Both contexts shaped by their historical occupations and
underscore the need for holistic approaches migration patterns, reflecting a blend of
that recognize the complex interplay between cultural heritage and socio-economic
cultural practices, built environments, and challenges. Originating from the region of
human well-being. Awadh, the Ahoris migrated to Varanasi and
settled primarily in the areas surrounding the
IDENTITY AND PLACE ATTACHMENT: city. Over time, they developed their distinct
AHORI AND DOM COMMUNITY identity and customs, often centered around
their traditional occupations and religious
Both Rapoport's exploration of the practices. While the Doms' identity is closely
relationship between house form and identity tied to their traditional duties and mythology,
and the narratives surrounding the Dom and the Ahoris' identity is influenced by their
Ahori communities of Varanasi highlight the historical occupations and experiences of
profound intertwining of cultural heritage, social stigma and economic marginalization.
socio-economic conditions, and collective Both communities face socio-economic
identity. The Dom community's identity is disparities, but efforts are underway to
deeply rooted in mythology and historical preserve their heritage and promote their
narratives, particularly their role as cremators socio-economic development, highlighting
along the sacred ghats of the Ganges. Their the importance of addressing cultural identity
sense of identity is strengthened by tales such within broader socio-economic contexts.
as that of King Harishchandra, which
underscore their significance in Varanasi's
cultural and religious framework The SPACIAL LAYERS OF MANKARMIKA
responsibility of cremation fell under Dom's
purview due to a myth narrated by Jagdish At the heart of the sprawling three-mile-long
expanse of Ghats, Manikarnika Ghat stands
to the myth, Shiva cursed the Dom as a distinct landmark, distinguished by its
community for a theft that occurred while billowing smoke, weathered facades, and
Parvati was bathing in the Kund in Kashi. To stacks of timber arranged both on boats and
gain forgiveness, the Doms agreed to become along the waterfront. Its architectural
the keepers of the sacred flame, believing that vocabulary comprises a repertoire of typical
only the fire offered by them could grant
elements—bastions, balconies, alcoves,
Hindus moksha. Another myth involves King
gateways, pavilions, and platforms—
Harishchandra, who sold his family into
slavery, including himself to Kallu Dom, to manifested in varied sizes and materials,
fulfill a sage's demand. Despite realizing that often combined in eclectic compositions.
his son was to be cremated, Harishchandra These elements are arranged in an irregular
refused to break the rules of the cremation pattern, contributing to a dynamic visual
ground. For his adherence to dharma, he rhythm that harmonizes the intricate spatial
attained moksha, and Kallu Dom was granted composition. The staircases, cascading down
entry into heaven due to his association with the streets and from elevated structures, add
Harishchandra. The Doms take pride in their a compelling cadence to the urban fabric.
role as cremators, viewing it as a duty During the dry season, cremations take place
assigned by Shiva, believing it to be their on the exposed silt bed, while the onset of
karma and a blessing from Shiva. They are monsoons submerges the Ghat, necessitating
the relocation of cremation sites to higher
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ground. In times of extreme flooding, the mythology and cultural tradition. Known as the
Ganga engulfs the temples and shrines "great cremation ground," it is believed to be
situated at lower elevations, underscoring where Lord Shiva guides departing souls towards
salvation, embodying a sacred site for cremation
the dynamic interplay between the river's rites. According to ancient texts like the Matsya
fluctuating waters and the built environment. Purana and Kashi Khanda, the ghat is a
convergence point of Shaiva and Vaishnavite
traditions, marked by the presence of the
Vishwanatha Temple. Legends recount how Lord
Vishnu performed cosmic austerities at this site,
ultimately leading to Lord Shiva's settlement
there. Over the centuries, the ghat has witnessed
numerous reconstructions and renovations,
attesting to its enduring significance. Surrounding
the ghat are temples, including the
Manokameshvara Temple and the Tarakeshvara
Temple, each contributing to the spiritual
landscape of the area. These temples, constructed
in various architectural styles, serve as active sites
of worship, reflecting the rich cultural tapestry of
Varanasi. As a focal point for both spiritual
contemplation and ritual practice, the
Manikarnika Ghat embodies the timeless allure
and profound spirituality of Varanasi's ghats.

Varanasi, a city steeped in spirituality and


tradition, hosts a diverse array of festivals that
showcase its rich cultural heritage and deep-
rooted religious significance. From the solemn
observances of Mahashivratri to the vibrant
revelry of Holi Mahotsav, each festival brings
together devotees and visitors in celebration,
Fig. 1.Understanding different layers of Manikarnika
prayer, and reflection along the sacred banks of
Ghat (Ram, A. (n.d.). Re-thinking the Manikarnika the Ganges River. These festivals serve as a
Ghat)
vibrant tapestry of communal joy, spiritual
awakening, and timeless traditions, offering a
glimpse into the heart and soul of this ancient city.
Festivals celebrated on the ghat are :
Table 1. What does it represent Mahashivratri: Celebrated in honor of Lord Shiva,
Col 1 Col 2 Col 3 Col 4 Col 5 Mahashivratri is one of the most significant
1 2 3 4 5 festivals in Varanasi. Devotees offer prayers to
a b c d e Lord Shiva and seek his blessings for prosperity
I II III IV V
and well-being. Special rituals and ceremonies are
i ii iii iv v
conducted at temples and ghats throughout the
A B C D E
city
1 2 3 4 5
(Source:)
Ganga Mahotsav: Ganga Mahotsav is a cultural
festival celebrated along the banks of the Ganges
RESULT River. It showcases the rich cultural heritage of
Varanasi contains intricate and intertwined Varanasi through music, dance, art, and religious
cultural layers and these layers are the aspects that ceremonies. The festival attracts artists,
contribute to its unique identity. The Manikarnika performers, and tourists from all over the world.
Ghat, situated along the sacred Ganges River in Buddha Mahotsav: Buddha Mahotsav
Varanasi, holds profound significance in Hindu commemorates the teachings and life of Lord
Buddha. The festival includes prayer sessions,
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• KARC Journal• Vol. I • Feb• 2024

discourses on Buddhism, meditation sessions, and the Doms are believed to have been entrusted with
cultural performances. It aims to promote peace, this duty by Lord Shiva himself.
harmony, and spiritual awakening.
Ravidas Jayanti: Ravidas Jayanti is celebrated to
honor the birth anniversary of Sant Ravidas, a
revered saint and poet. Devotees pay homage to 5 Discussions
Sant Ravidas by organizing processions, bhajan
sessions, and distributing food to the needy. The The alignment of the funeral pyre in the North-
festival promotes the teachings of Sant Ravidas South direction symbolizes the journey of the soul
and social equality. towards the realm of Yama, the Hindu God of
Holi Mahotsav: Holi Mahotsav is a vibrant Death. Integral to these rituals are the Doms, who
festival celebrated with colors and enthusiasm. It hold the responsibility of performing cremations
marks the arrival of spring and the victory of good and play a pivotal role in the spiritual and
over evil. People participate in colorful religious fabric of the ghat. However, amidst its
processions, play with colors, and indulge in spiritual sanctity, the ghat grapples with
traditional music and dance performances. socioeconomic complexities and environmental
Nag Nathaiya Festival: Nag Nathaiya Festival is challenges. Exploitation and economic inequality
dedicated to the divine serpent deity, Nag Devta. among those involved in the cremation process
It reenacts the mythological tale of Lord Krishna underscore the need for equitable practices and
subduing the venomous serpent Kaliya. The infrastructure improvements. Furthermore,
festival includes dramatic performances, pollution and waste management issues pose
processions, and rituals honoring Nag Devta. significant threats to the health of locals and the
Kartik Poornima: Kartik Poornima is celebrated ecosystem of the Ganges River. Efforts to address
on the full moon day in the month of Kartik these challenges must balance the preservation of
(November-December). Devotees take a holy dip sacred traditions with the promotion of
in the Ganges River and perform rituals to seek sustainable practices. Despite these challenges,
blessings. The festival is also known for the Manikarnika Ghat remains a vibrant center of
lighting of diyas (oil lamps) along the riverbanks, spiritual reflection and cultural heritage, drawing
creating a mesmerizing sight. pilgrims and visitors from diverse backgrounds to
The cremation at Manikarnika Ghat is intricately partake in its rituals and festivities, reinforcing its
intertwined with the history of the cremators, status as a microcosm of Varanasi's rich social
known as the Doms. Cremation holds profound fabric and timeless traditions.
importance for Hindus, as its purpose is to release
the soul from the cycle of karma and dharma, 5 Conclusion
ultimately leading to moksha.
The ritual commences with the chanting of "Ram In conclusion, Manikarnika Ghat stands as a
Nam Satya hai" (Ram's name is the truth) by sacred and culturally significant site in Varanasi,
mourners as they transport the deceased to the deeply rooted in Hindu mythology and tradition.
cremation ghat. Upon arrival, the corpse, adorned It serves as a place where cremation rituals are
with a gold shroud, is immersed in the Ganga for performed with reverence and where festivals and
purification, followed by the chief mourner, with ceremonies celebrate the city's rich cultural
a shaven head, taking a dip for purification as heritage. However, alongside its spiritual
well. Subsequently, the corpse is positioned on the importance, the ghat faces challenges related to
pre-prepared pyre by the Doms, with resin and environmental pollution and socioeconomic
ghee added for efficient combustion. The chief inequality, emphasizing the need for sustainable
mourner then performs a ritual task of practices and infrastructure improvements.
circumambulating the pyre five times, lighting it Despite these challenges, Manikarnika Ghat
each time. These rituals are done by the Dom remains a symbol of spiritual awakening,
community of Varanasi assuming a significant communal unity, and the eternal quest for
role in the city's cultural and religious framework, liberation from the cycle of rebirth. The
primarily owing to their traditional responsibility Manikarnika Ghat in Varanasi stands as a
for performing cremations along the sacred ghats cornerstone of Hindu religious and cultural
lining the Ganges River, notably at the tradition, embodying profound significance in the
Manikarnika Ghat. This responsibility finds its cycle of life and death. As a sacred cremation
roots in mythology and historical narratives, as ground, it adheres to core beliefs deeply rooted in

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Hinduism, where the departing soul is surrounded software like Aldus PageMaker including versions
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