PATTERN BlackberryWreath Eng FINISH

EMBROIDERY PATTERN
Blackberry Wreath
Full video tutorial of embroidery Blackberry Wreath here
Content:
Materials
Image for transfer to fabric
Preparation for work
Beginning of work. Securing the thread
Stitches. Step by step instructions.
- Split stitch
- Satin stitch
- Long a shot stitches
- Fly stitch
- Stem stitch
- Side to side stem stitch (Cable stitch)
- French knot
Project steps
Framing embroidery in a hoop.
©2021 AmityFloralEmbroidery The pattern is not subject to distribution and transfer to third parties.
Materials needed:
1. DMC floss of 12 colours:
3865 746 92* 4045 3346 221 632 939 3013 3011 372 3053
Anchor floss 1 color **
1215
* Note 1: I recommend to order two DMC 92 floss
** Note 2: Only 4 leaves are embroidered with this color. I originally planned to use DMC 125
instead of Anchor 1215. But, in my opinion, DMC threads have a colder shade, and may look less
harmonious with the rest of the shades in the leaves (see photo below). But your opinion may
differ from mine. Alternatively, in order not to buy the Anchor floss, you can embroider these 4
leaves in one of the offered colors DMC 92 or DMC 4045.
2. Fabric size 30 * 30 cm (12*12inches), medium density, e.g. 200g / m2. Cotton, linen, or a
cotton linen blend. The fabric should not stretch.
Most often I use cotton from Makower (UK), color 2000 / W02 (Antique White) or 2000 / Q53
(Ecru)
3. Wooden hoops with a diameter of 20cm (8 inches)
4. A fine and sharp needle; the eye should not be thicker than the needle itself. For example, a
satin stitch needle Micron number 5/10 (article KSM-1052) or DMC needles number 5-10 (article
1765/3) or number 3-9 (article 1765/2)
5. Heat-erasable pen for transferring the image to the fabric. For example, Pilot Frixion Pen
6. To decorate the work in a hoop.
- Fabric size 30 * 30 cm (12*12inches), cotton or other material for linning, density e.g. 140-145g /
m2.
- The felt and sewing thread are approximately the same shade as the selected fabric for
embroidery.
7. Scissors.
Image for transferring to fabric
Designer Aliaksandra Dzyachenka @amity_by
Preparation for work:
1. Wash and iron the fabric.
2. Transferring the image to the fabric.
Transfer major lines and details. Small details, dotted lines, and directional lines for satin
stitches can be drawn directly on the fabric after transferring.
The most common ways are:
• Using carbon paper.
Place the carbon paper between the printed design and the fabric (fabric on the bottom) and trace
the outline of the design with a sharp pencil. It is best to do this on a flat, hard surface. Note the
high "staining" ability of this method.
• Using a window or lightbox
Fix the printed pattern on the window glass with tape. Place the fabric on top of it and fix it with
tape. Trace with a hard pencil. This method only works in the daylight.
In the dark instead of glass, you can try using a tablet. The transfer method is the same only
instead of window glass, use the tablet screen with the backlight on.
3. Securing the fabric in the hoop.
For embroidery, I use a wooden hoop. The hoop with a thickness of 1.5 cm (19/32 inches)
has proven itself best.
Place the fabric on the inner hoop ring, place the outer hoop on top and push. Make the
fabric as tight as possible. The fabric should be straight and without distortion: the warp and weft
threads must not be twisted. Then you need to tighten the screw. The surface of a well-stretched
fabric should look like a drum: if you knock on it with your fingers, there will be a dull ringing.
It is recommended to wrap the inner hoop ring with a bias tape or cotton ribbon.
This way you can achieve better fabric tension.
Beginning of work. Securing the thread.
At the beginning of work, fasten the thread on the front side of the fabric where it will later
be covered by stitches.
Make a stitch from point A to point B so that a small tail remains sticking out on the
surface of the fabric (photo 1). Next, bring the thread to the back side at point C (photo 2) and
bring it to the front one at point D (the center of the stitch made AB) as seen in photo 3. Then
bring the thread to the back side at point B (photo 4). Carefully cut off the protruding tails using
sharp scissors (photo 5). The thread is secured (photo 6)
To secure the thread at the end of the work, proceed in the same way. The most important thing is
to try to fasten the thread in a place that will subsequently be covered with stitches. You can also
fasten the thread on the back side, pulling it under the stitches made.
Securing the thread with a loop at the beginning of work. Suitable if you need a thread in
two strands of the same color for work.
Pull the thread of the required length from the floss. Fold it in half. Thus, there will be a
thread in two strands, at one end of which there will be a loop. With this loop we will secure the
thread, as shown in the photo below.
Stitches used. Step-by-step instructions
Split stitch
Pierce the fabric on the front side at point A, make a straight stitch and at point B bring it
to the back side (photo 1). Next, bring the stitch to the front side at point C as in photo 2 (in the
middle of the previous stitch). Next stitches are sewn in the same way (photo 3)
If it is necessary to make a curved contour with a split stitch, then smaller stitches should
be made on the bend. In this case, the bend will look smoother and neater (photo 4)
If you need to sew a split stitch on a contour that has a sharp change in direction, it is
necessary to bring the stitch to the upper protruding point and not to pierce the previous stitch
with the next stitch, but to direct it in the desired new direction. An example can be seen in the
photo below.
Satin stitch
(leaf embroidery example).
To make the edges of the embroidered detail even, neat and fuller, the outline of the leaf
should be sheathed with split stitch (photo 1) or with stem stitch. But this is optional.
Bring the thread to the front side at point A and take it off at point B (photo 2). Lay the
stitches diagonally from the center of the sheet to the edge. The needle is inserted into the fabric
at a 90-degree angle along the outer edge of the contour stitch (split stitch), i.e. by the split
stitch. The filling should start from the middle to one edge (photo 3). Then pass the thread under
the stitches on the back side and fill in the second half of the element (photo 4). In the same way,
embroider the second part of the leaf (photo 5)
All stitches should be close to each other without overlapping. The fabric should not show
through the stitches. To make the stitches look beautiful, it is also recommended to take care that
the thread does not twist.
If you do not make a contour stitch, then the thread should be brought out to the front side
and pierce the fabric exactly at the outer border of the applied contour. Then sew the stitches as
described above.
Satin stitch
(petal embroidery example)
Normally in satin stitch, the stitches are all parallel as in example early. But in some case
they are not exactly parallel, as this case with embroidery petal. Since need following the shape of
the petal and must each stitch touch the flower centre.
We start to embroider from the middle of the petal. First one way. Then to another. This
technique is especially good for round shapes, since it is difficult to maintain a round shape if you
stitch from one side over to the other.
Bring the needle at point A and make the first stitch towards the bottom of the petal at
point B (photo 1).
Next, make directional stitches. We fill them in the shape of a petal. All the stitches are
make to the bottom of the petal (photo 2, 3, 4, 5)
When all the directional stitches are done on one side, we should add some straight
stitches between them (photo 6, 7, 8)
As soon as one side of the petal is embroidered, you need to embroider the second side in
the same way (photo 9, 10)
In the example above, all the stitches of the satin stitch converged to the center of the
petal, but not at one point. But below you can see how a rounded leaf is embroidered with satin
stitch with stitches converging at one point. The technique is the same as with the petal above.
Long and short stitches
(using the petal example)
1. With a pencil mark on the fabric the lines of transition from one thread tone to another
and the direction of the stitches. This will make it easier to make the stitches and stay on track.
2. Embroider the contour of the petal with a split stitch or a stem stitch. This will make the
edges of the embroidered element even, neat and fuller. (photo 1)
3. The first row of stitches is made up of alternating long stitches (about 10mm or 3/8inch)
and short stitches (about 6-7mm or 1/4inch). They fit from the inside to the outside, going beyond
the contour stitching. The needle is inserted at a 90-degree angle. (photo 2) The stitches should
be placed one after the other and completely cover the fabric so that there are no gaps. At the
same time, they should not climb on top of each other.
4. Start stitching to one side first (photo 2). Then pass the thread under the stitches on the
back side (photo 3) and start filling with the stitches on the second side (photo 4, 5). Follow the
directional lines as close as possible.
5. The second row (photo 6-9) and next rows (10-16) are only long stitches that are
stacked towards the center or bottom of the petal, depending on its structure. Adjust the length of
the long stitches, i.e. the stitches should be staggered, creating an uneven line (photo 6,7)
6. In the second and next rows, stitches can split the stitches of the previous row (photo
8). This way, you can achieve merging of rows and a smoother transition of colors. It also allows
you to lock the stitches of the previous row.
7. Tapering the rows can be achieved by reducing the number of stitches. Also, stitches can
be connected at one point, forming a V (photo 10, 11). This will achieve a smooth taper. (photo
13)
8. When embroidering the side of the design, the stitches should be shortened. (photo 12)
A few general instructions:
- so that the lines of a pencil or carbon paper are not visible, follow the outline of the
drawing with a slight indent. That way unsightly strokes will be hidden under the embroidery
- if at the end of embroidery in some places the fabric is pulled together, this means that
you either overtightened the warp on the hoop or tightened it poorly, or tightened the thread too
much while sewing the stitches.
- you can achieve the effect of darkening or play of light not only with different shades of
threads, but also with different directions of the stitches
Fly stitch in the leaf embroidery example.
Pierce the fabric on the front side at point A, make a stitch and bring it out to the back side
at point B (photo 1). Next, bring it to the front side at point C and take the needle to the back side
at point D (photo 2). Do not tighten the stitch and bring the needle to the front side at point B. It
turns out a kind of loop, while the thread should be located under the point of the needle. Above
this thread, you need to sew a stitch to point E, gradually tightening the thread. As a result, an arc
should be obtained, fixed with a small stitch in the center of the leaf (photo 4). Next stitches are
made in the same way, bending around the shape of the leaf (photo 5). The leaf is ready (photo
6).
Stem stitch
Bring the thread to the front side at point A, insert the thread to the wrong side to point B,
then, holding the thread with your finger, bring it back to the front side at point C (photo 1). Then
retreat from point B to the required distance and bring the needle to the back side at point D
(photo 2). Subsequent stitches are performed in the same way (photo 3). The stem stitch is ready
(photo 4)
Side to side stem stitch (Cable stitch)
Notes: This stitch differs from the stem stitch in that when the stitches are made, the
thread is located on different sides of the needle (either under the needle, then above the needle).
Bring the thread to the front side at point A, insert the thread to the wrong side to point B,
then, holding the thread with your finger, bring it back to the front side at point C (photo 1). The
thread is at the same time under the needle. Then retreat from point B to the required distance
and bring the needle to the back side at point D (photo 2). The thread is at the same time over the
needle.
Subsequent stitches are performed in the same way (photo 3 and photo 4). At the end of
the side to side stem stitch is similar to brickwork (photo 5).
French knot
Pierce the fabric on the front side at point A (photo 1)
Whip the thread as needed (photo 2), then, pulling the thread, bring the needle to the
back side next to point A (photo 3). The thread should be taken out slowly, holding it to the very
end (photo 4). The French knot is ready (photo 5).
* The closer to the fabric you begin to form a knot, the smoother and neater it will be.
* French knot is best done with a sharp needle.
Project steps
Before starting the embroidery project, you need to make sure that the tension of the fabric
in the hoop is good: the fabric does not sag and resembles the surface of a drum. Also, that it is
stretched evenly and does not have distortions. All this affects the appearance of the stitches
individually and the finished work as a whole.
So, the drawing has been transfered, the fabric is stretched, needles, threads, good mood -
everything you need is at hand. You can start.
Stitches guide
!!! The sewing of all stitches used is described above !!!
Use the color photographs below as a starting point and a color guide.
Full video tutorial of embroidery Blackberry Wreath here
We use floss with color transitions DMC 92, DMC 4045 and Anchor 1215.
There are small notes when working with such threads, we will consider them before
starting embroidery.
1. To embroider with a thread in two strands, you need to put 2 strands with the same
color sides into the needle as in the photo below: (that is, the method in which two strands are
made by folding in half one is wrong here).
2. Melange threads DMC 92 have very long light color transitions. And if this part of the
threads is not cut, then when embroidering, the leaf can have very light colour and look boring.
Therefore, below in the photo you can see where I cut the threads and removed some of the light
color of threads. I also cut the dark color approximately in the middle, so as not to get a completely
dark leaf. In the photo, I pulled out a thread about 3 m long from the floss. The crosses indicate
the places where the cut was made. The lightest part (segment B-C) was excluded and did not
embroider with it. Of course, in this case, the consumption of threads increases, so I recommend
buying 2 floss to have a stock.
3. DMC 4045 and Anchor 1215 do not have such long transitions, so I cut them just in the
middle of the lightest shade and in the middle of the darkest shade.
Embroidery steps:
Step 1. Leaves
I started to embroider from the right side of wreath. You can start to embroider from either
side.
The leaves are embroidered with a fly stitch. Are used color transition threads of DMC
92, DMC 4045 and Anchor 1215 in 2 strands.
The conditional color distribution can be seen in photo 1
1) We start to embroider leaves with fly stitch DMC 92 in 2 strands (photo 2-7)
IMPORTANT:
* if the leaf in the top part is light, then the thread is fixed to the fabric with the light end
and, accordingly, if the leaf in the top part is dark, then the thread is fixed to the fabric with the
dark end.
* when we embroidering with fly stitch, we alternate the loops: further and closer to the
center to get more realistic uneven edges of the leaves (photo 3-6)
2) Continue to embroider the leaves with a fly stitch in 2 strands DMC 4045 (photo 8 and
10) and Anchor 1215 (photo 9 and 10).
As I wrote above in the Materials Needed, Anchor 1215 floss can be replaced with any of
the other colors used for embroidering leaves: DMC 92 or DMC 4045.
Step 2. Stalk.
At this step, the stalk will only be marked with a side to side stem stitch (cable stitch) in 1
strand DMC 3346 (photo 11, 12).
We will continue to embroider the stalk in Step 5, adding thickness and interesting color
transitions for it.
Stage 3. Flowers and buds.
We embroider the contour of flowers with a split stitch in 2 strands DMC 3865 (photo 13)
The petals are made with long and short stitches in 1 strand DMC 3865 and DMC 746.
To make easier filling in the petals with stitches, first make the directionally stitches
(photo 14 and photo 17), and then fill the space between them (photo 15-16 and photo 18-19)
Then, with the long and short stitches, add the shade DMC 746 in 1 strand near the core of
the flower (photo 20-23)
The core is made with French knots DMC 3053 in 1 strand 3 wraps (photo 24)
The stamens are made with French knots DMC 632 in 1 strand 1 wrap (photo 25-26).
There are about three french knots on each petals: two are located closer to the core of the flower,
and one to the outer edge (photo 25)
Start to embroider the next flower
Bud:
Contour - split stitch DMC 3865 in 2 strands (photo 33)
Petals - satin stitch (photo 34) or long and short stitches (photo 41) DMC 3865 in 1
strand.
Sepal - long and short stitches DMC 3346 and DMC 3011 in 1 strand (photo 36-38). The
contour is embroidered with a split stitch with the DMC 3346 and DMC 3011 in 1 strand (photo
39-40).
We embroider the rest of the flowers in the same way.
In the central part of the wreath (photo 41-42) and on the left side of the wreath (photo
43)
Step 4. Berries. Sepals.
1) Berries are made with French knots DMC 221, DMC 939, DMC 3053, DMC 3013 in 4
threads 3 wraps and 1 wrap (photo 44-57)
2)The sepals are made with long and short stitches in 1 strand DMC 746, DMC 372 and
DMC 632 (photo 58-62)
The outer contour of the petal is made with a stem stitch in 1 strand DMC 746 (only half of
the petal-photo 63-64)
The core is made with a French knot DMC 3865 in 1 strand 3 wraps (photo 65)
3) The sepals under the berries are made with straight stitches in the shape of a leaf in 1
strans DMC 3013 (photo 66-68).
We make highlights with straight stitches or a stem stitch in 1 strand DMC 3011 (photo 69-
71) and DMC 746 (photo 72)
The rest of the bunches of berries are made in the same way.
Step 5. Let's return to the stalk again.
Let's make it thicker and add colors.
At first we will make one row with a stem stitch DMC 3011 in 1 strand (photos 81 and 82
and 84), then a row with a stem stitch DMC 3346 in 1 strand (photos 81 and 83 and 84) and
finish with a row with a stem stitch DMC 632 in 1 strand ( photo 85-87)
Step 6. Twigs to the leaves.
Twigs to the leaves are made with a stem stitch DMC 3346 in 1 strand (photo 88-89)
Along the way, we embroider twigs to the berries with a stem stitch DMC 3011 in 1 strand
(photo 90-93)
And we embroider twigs to flowers in 2 rows of a stem stitch DMC 3346 in 1 strand (photo
94-100)
Stage 7. The thorns
The thorns on the main branch can be embroidered in several ways.
Optional 1: straight stitches DMC 632 in 1 strand - when you need to make smaller thorns
(photo 101-102)
Optional 2: straight stitches DMC 632 in 1 strand - when you need to make the thorns
thicker (photo 103-106)
Optional 3: straight stitches DMC 632 in 1 strand - when you need to make the thorns
sharper (photo 107-110)
Thorns on branches with flowers are embroidered with one straight stitch DMC 3011 in 1
strand (photo 111-113)
Congratulations, you have a beautiful HoopArt with Blackberry Wreath in your hands.
That you embroidered yourself with your own hands. I am sure it will be a wonderful decoration
for your cozy home or a gift.
It's time to start decorating the embroidered work in the hoop.
Framing embroidery in a hoop.
Framing embroidery in a hoop is a simple solution. And at the same time, the finished
work takes on an original and very attractive look.
Steps:
Wash and iron the finished embroidery. Hoop the fabric. Cut off the excess fabric in a
circle, leaving 3-4 sm (1/4-5/8 inches) around. Leaving 0,5-1sm (1/4-3/8 inches) from the edge,
sew the fabric around the entire perimeter with ordinary basting stitches. Tighten the threads and
secure with one or two stitches.
You can leave it like this.
Or you can close it with felt. To do this, you need to cut out a piece of felt of the same
diameter as the outer diameter of the inner hoop ring. And then sew the felt in a circle with
ordinary stitches. Done.
Enjoy the process and great results!
Thank you for your trust and choice of my pattern!

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PATTERN BlackberryWreath Eng FINISH

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EMBROIDERY PATTERN

Full video tutorial of embroidery Blackberry Wreath here

Image for transfer to fabric

Preparation for work

Beginning of work. Securing the thread

Stitches. Step by step instructions.

- Long a shot stitches

- Side to side stem stitch (Cable stitch)

Framing embroidery in a hoop.

1. DMC floss of 12 colours:

Anchor floss 1 color **

* Note 1: I recommend to order two DMC 92 floss

leaves in one of the offered colors DMC 92 or DMC 4045.

cotton linen blend. The fabric should not stretch.

3. Wooden hoops with a diameter of 20cm (8 inches)

1765/3) or number 3-9 (article 1765/2)

6. To decorate the work in a hoop.

1. Wash and iron the fabric.

2. Transferring the image to the fabric.

stitches can be drawn directly on the fabric after transferring.

The most common ways are:

• Using carbon paper.

high "staining" ability of this method.

• Using a window or lightbox

3. Securing the fabric in the hoop.

has proven itself best.

This way you can achieve better fabric tension.

sharp scissors (photo 5). The thread is secured (photo 6)

two strands of the same color for work.

thread, as shown in the photo below.

(leaf embroidery example).

embroider the second part of the leaf (photo 5)

the thread does not twist.

(petal embroidery example)

stitch from one side over to the other.

point B (photo 1).

make to the bottom of the petal (photo 2, 3, 4, 5)

stitches between them (photo 6, 7, 8)

the same way (photo 9, 10)

(using the petal example)

edges of the embroidered element even, neat and fuller. (photo 1)

same time, they should not climb on top of each other.

directional lines as close as possible.

you to lock the stitches of the previous row.

much while sewing the stitches.

threads, but also with different directions of the stitches

Fly stitch in the leaf embroidery example.

the side to side stem stitch is similar to brickwork (photo 5).

Pierce the fabric on the front side at point A (photo 1)

end (photo 4). The French knot is ready (photo 5).

* French knot is best done with a sharp needle.

individually and the finished work as a whole.

everything you need is at hand. You can start.

Full video tutorial of embroidery Blackberry Wreath here

made by folding in half one is wrong here).

buying 2 floss to have a stock.

92, DMC 4045 and Anchor 1215 in 2 strands.

The conditional color distribution can be seen in photo 1