Automatic fishing design and demonstration

How it will work.

When the fish swallows the bait, it begins to swim away. The bobber will rise to the
eyelets of the rod as it swims, and the line will tighten. The trigger shaft will drop,
releasing the fishing rod from the trigger post and allowing the hook to be set. The
trigger arm will fall out of the way, strike the base, and make a loud "crack,"
indicating that you have taken a bite. This creates a tangle-free zone in which to fight
the fish.

There will be a hole on the trigger arm where you can attach a light for night fishing,
or you can put reflective tape on the counterweight of the trigger arm so you can
check it with a flashlight at night. When the unit detects a bite and sets the hook,
remove the rod and reel from the holder and fight the fish.

The slack bobber system is an important component of the automation unit. When
you use the slack bobber on the rod, you can control how much slack line the fish
gets before the unit sets the hook. When fish become difficult to catch, the slack
bobber can be adjusted to allow a fish up to two feet of pure slack line before the rod
sets the hook. When pursuing aggressive fish such as Northern Pike, Rainbow trout,
Brown trout, Kokanee salmon, Catfish, Bass, Carp, and Blue-gills, you don't want to
give the fish too much slack. You only allow them about 3 inches of slack line. When
targeting finky fish such as Walleye, Perch, Crappies, and Whitefish, you may want
to use a slack bobber to give them 2 feet of slack line.

The design will be made up of a rectangular base with a rod holder on one side and
two small raised tabs to which a vertical arm is bolted and nutted. This vertical arm
will be the trigger arm. This trigger arm will be adjustable to fit fishing rods ranging in
length from 23 to 38 inches. When the fishing rod is not attached, this trigger arm
should be free to move. The top of the trigger arm will have a hole for a light. The
stainless steel trigger can be inserted into two oval holes on the face of the trigger
arm.

The top oval hole is for most rods, while the bottom one is for rods that require more
hook set power. A stabiliser bar on the bottom of the base can be retracted out of the
base to provide the unit with a stable platform. The arm can be covered with snow
from the ice drill to lock it into the ice in case the fishing area is icy. At the end of the
day, if it appears to have frozen in the ice, simply kick the rod holder and the unit will
emerge from the ice.

Automatic trigger system

The stainless steel trigger system is the main focus of this system to prevent
overfishing and bycatch as well as helping catch the sizeable big and mature fish or
how one may wish in regard to the set guidelines for fishing. It's so simple and
effective: the trigger pin can be adjusted, allowing you to use small micro jigs to
catch bluegills, crappies, perch, and small trout or salmon. Alternatively, you can
bend the pin and set it up with golden shiners for walleye pike and trout, or adjust a
little more to put a live 10′′ crappie or bluegill for bait for big pike if necessary.

Setting up the depth.

When you put a weight on the hook, let the line out of the reel so the weight lands on
the bottom. Rewind the line until the rod tip is parallel to the ice where the Automatic
device is resting. When the rod tip is engaged to the trigger post, the hook is 10′′ off
the bottom with the 33′′ rod combo and 7′′ off the bottom with the 27′′ rod combo.
Each crank on the reel equals approximately 4 inches of depth.