46 Elfmousepdfpatternuk

#stashbusterchums - No 46 Elf Mouse
This Pattern uses

UK Crochet Terms
Yarn
Scheepjes Catona 4ply, 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 25g approx of Champagne (248) for Head, Ears, Tail and Hands.
CC1: 10g approx of Apple Granny (513) for Body, Legs and Collar.
CC2: 15g approx of Hot Red (115) for Body, Hat and Boots.
CC3: 5g approx of Jade (514) for Belt and Hat Brim.
CC4: 5g approx of Sweet Orange (411) for Belt Buckle and Pom Pom.
CC5: 5g approx of Snow White (106) for Cu s, Top of Boots, and Embroidered Details.
CC6: Small amount of Jet Black (110) for Eyes and Mouth.
CC7: Small amount of Freesia (519) for the Nose.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch de nition and creates a rm structure so
body parts hold their shape well. Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a
DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of meters per 50g.
Hook
3 mm
Tension
24 sts x 27 rows = 10cm measured over dc using 3mm hook.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stu ng showing
through.
© Pia Simpson 2021 1 mycrochetchums.com

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Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stu ng, stitch marker/waste yarn, scissors.
Size
Approx 24 cm (9.5 in) tall.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise speci ed this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral
without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the rst stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then
work the rst round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can nd a Photo Tutorial at:
https://www.mycrochetchums.com/magic-ring-photo-tutorial.html
The Elf Mouse is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, nish
each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails
at the end can be easily woven in.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please
familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch
in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet
everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the nished
item will be elongated and the stu ng will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble - and UK tr - treble; the equivalent US stitches are
US hdc - half double crochet and US dc - double crochet.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can nd a conversion chart at: https://
www.mycrochetchums.com/ukus-crochet-terms.html
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can nd a chart of the UK
Crochet terms used at: https://www.mycrochetchums.com/uk-abbreviations.html
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat nish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both
front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.

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Body
Worked from the bottom upwards. Stu as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Change to CC2.
Rnd 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 24-25: Dc around.
Fasten o .
Head
Worked from tip of snout back. Stu as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts

Rnd 2: Dc around.

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Rnd 9: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, 6 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 27: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten o .
Ears - make 2
Do not stu .

Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Fasten o .
Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC6 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc, sl st in rst dc to join. 6 sts
Fasten o .
Nose
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Fasten o .

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Arms - make 2
Worked from the hand upwards. White cu is made separately. Stu as you go.

Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Change to CC2.
Fasten o .
Legs - make 2
Worked from the boot upwards. White cu is made separately. Stu as you go. Chains not included
in stitch count.
With CC2, chain 4.

Rnd 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 3 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 3 dc in other side of ch, 2
ch. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, **; rep from * to ** once more. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 3 dc, 3 dc2tog, 9 dc. 15 sts
Change to CC1.
Fasten o .
Cu s/Tops of Boots - make 4

With CC5, chain 12.
Row 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, 11 dc. Turn. 11 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 11 sl st.
Fasten o .
Belt
With CC3, chain 37.
Row 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, 36 dc. Turn. 36 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 36 dc. 36 sts
Fasten o .

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Belt Buckle
Chains are not included in stitch count.
With CC4, chain 11.

Row 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, *2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc, 2 ch**; rep from * to ** once more, sl
st in beg dc to join. 10 sts
Fasten o .
Collar
Chains are not included in stitch count.
With CC1, chain 19.

Row 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 18 dc. Turn. 18 sts
To work the points:
Row 2: *1 sl st, 9 ch, starting in second ch from hook, 2 sl st, 2 dc, 2 htr, 2 tr, miss next st from Row
1, 1 sl st **; rep from * to ** 5 more times.
Fasten o .
Hat
Worked from the top down.
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Change to CC3.
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: Working in FLO for whole round, [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Turn. 30 sts
Rnd 17: 1 sl st in rst st, *3 ch, starting in second ch from hook, 1 dc, 1 htr, miss next st, 2 sl st**;
rep from * to ** 9 more times, nishing with one sl st in last st of Rnd 16.
Fasten o .
Tail
Worked from the tip back. Do not stu .

Fasten o .

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Pom Pom
Worked from the top down. Stu as you go.
Rnd 5: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten o .
Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together rst, checking from all angles to make
sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn
needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Collar to the top of the Body.
Sew the Head to the top of the Body.
Sew the Ears either side of the Head, centred on the Snout, roughly in line with Rnd 17 of the
Head. Make sure to leave enough room between the Ears to attach the Hat later.
Sew the Eyes in place roughly in line with Rnd 11 of the Head, spaced about 3-4 stitches apart.
Sew the Nose on to the end of the Snout.
Sew the Arms on either side of the Body about 5 Rnds down from the top of the Body.
Sew the Cu s in place on the Arms.
Sew the Legs to the bottom of the Body, roughly in line with Rnd 4, set forward so the Mouse will
be able to sit on his bottom. See photo below.
Sew the Tops of Boots in place on the Legs.
Stu the Hat and sew in place on the top of the Head.

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Sew the Pom Pom onto the top of the Hat.
Sew the Belt in place on the Body where the two Body colours meet.
Sew the Belt Buckle in place over the Belt on the front of the Body.
Sew the Tail in place on the back of the Body, roughly in line with Rnd 6 of the Body.
Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle embroider the following details:
Single stitch highlight on each Eyes, using CC5.
The smile below the Nose using CC6.
The "snow ake" detail on the Body using CC5.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an
individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the nished
item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stu ng and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be
a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold,
transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create
the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!

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About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown
and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling
guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I
wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any
feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also nd me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on)
please email me at: pia@mycrochetchums.com - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x

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#stashbusterchums - No 46 Elf Mouse

This Pattern uses

© Pia Simpson 2021 1 mycrochetchums.com

UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations

Increasing and decreasing

© Pia Simpson 2021 2 mycrochetchums.com

Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts

© Pia Simpson 2021 3 mycrochetchums.com

Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts

© Pia Simpson 2021 4 mycrochetchums.com

Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts

With CC2, chain 4.

Cu s/Tops of Boots - make 4

© Pia Simpson 2021 5 mycrochetchums.com

With CC4, chain 11.

With CC1, chain 19.

Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts

© Pia Simpson 2021 6 mycrochetchums.com

Sew the Collar to the top of the Body.

Sew the Head to the top of the Body.

Sew the Nose on to the end of the Snout.

Sew the Cu s in place on the Arms.

Sew the Tops of Boots in place on the Legs.

© Pia Simpson 2021 7 mycrochetchums.com

Single stitch highlight on each Eyes, using CC5.

The smile below the Nose using CC6.

The "snow ake" detail on the Body using CC5.

© Pia Simpson 2021 8 mycrochetchums.com

You can also nd me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.

© Pia Simpson 2021 9 mycrochetchums.com

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