LUGAW

In photo: Arroz Caldo

Lugaw is a traditional Filipino rice porridge that is often enjoyed as a

comforting and filling meal, particularly during breakfast or as a snack.
It is a popular dish that has been a part of Filipino food culture for
centuries. In Visayan regions, savory lugaw are collectively referred to
as sospas/pospas. According to the National Commission for Culture
and the Arts, lugaw is one of the earliest historically-documented dishes
in the Philippines. The Vocabulario de la lengua tagala (1613) by Fr.
Pedro de San Buenaventura, defines “logao” (Hispanized as “aroz
guisado”) as “rice mixed with [coconut] milk or water or of both
(porridge). Lugaw is made by simmering rice in water or broth until it
becomes thick and creamy. It is usually seasoned with salt and pepper,
and sometimes garlic or ginger is added for additional flavor. The dish
can be enjoyed as is or customized with various toppings and
condiments. The origin of lugaw can be traced back to China. Lugaw is
considered a variant of congee, a traditional rice porridge dish that is
popular in many Asian countries, including China, Vietnam, Thailand,
and the Philippines. Congee has been a staple food in China for centuries
and has been adapted and embraced by various cultures throughout
history.
There are regional variations of lugaw in the Philippines, each with its
own unique twist and flavors. First is the Arroz Caldo, a variation of
lugaw that is popular in the Visayas and Mindanao regions. It is similar
to regular lugaw but is often made with chicken, ginger, and garlic,
giving it a distinctive savory and aromatic taste. Arroz caldo is typically
topped with fried garlic, spring onions, and calamansi. Second is the
Goto, a lugaw variation that originated from Pampanga, a province in
Central Luzon. It is made with beef tripe, innards, and sometimes with
beef trotters or oxtail. Goto has a rich and hearty flavor, often enhanced
with garlic, ginger, and other spices. It is commonly topped with crispy
fried garlic, chopped spring onions, and a squeeze of calamansi. Sweet
versions of Lugaw exist as well, we have the Champorado and Binignit.
Champorado is not like the traditional lugaw, it is a sweet rice porridge.
It is a popular breakfast dish in the Philippines, especially in the
provinces of Pampanga and Batangas. Champorado is primarily made
from glutinous rice and cocoa powder, giving it a chocolatey flavor. It is
commonly enjoyed with milk, sugar, and paired with dried fish called
tuyo. Meanwhile, Benignit is a lugaw made with coconut milk (gata) and
various slices of fruit, jelly desserts (like sago, tapioca pearls, kaong,
etc.), and root crops (like sweet potato, taro, and ube). It is known by
many other regional names, like giná-tan, tabirák, alpahor, ginettaán,
ginat-ang lugaw, and kamlo.
In political context, the lugaw has been widely associated with the
political camp of former Philippine Vice President Leni Robredo,
originating from her 2016 election campaign during which Robredo’s
supporters sold the rice porridge as part of a fundraising effort.
Robredo’s detractors and internet trolls have pejoratively used the tags
“Leni Lugaw” or the “Lugaw Queen” after photos of her serving lugaw
circulated online. In response, Robredo has since adopted the tag during
political events and campaigns, including serving lugaw to attendees of
her 2022 Philippine presidential election bid announcement. As written
in the paper of Malasig, Jeline (2021) The post about Robredo’s rice
porridges also made its way to the trending list of Twitter and have
caused various reactions from Filipino netizens.

Lugaw made its name in Filipino cuisine due to its popularity as a

comforting and nourishing dish. It gained recognition and became a
staple food in the Philippines because of its simplicity, affordability, and
versatility. In Filipino culture, lugaw is often associated with care and
nurturing. It is commonly served to sick family members as a way to
provide comfort and aid in their recovery. The popularity of lugaw has
also been attributed to its affordability. With rice being a staple in
Filipino housqeholds, lugaw offers an affordable way to make use of rice
and stretch it into a hearty meal, especially when combined with other
inexpensive ingredients such as chicken or inexpensive cuts of meat.
This has further solidified lugaw’s place in Filipino cuisine and its
enduring popularity among Filipinos of all ages.

For that being said, Lugaw is indeed not only delicious but also known
for its nourishing properties. It is often consumed when someone is
feeling unwell or during colder weather to provide warmth and comfort.
The simplicity of lugaw and its versatility in terms of toppings and
flavors make it a beloved dish in Filipino cuisine and is now engraved in
the food culture of the Philippines.