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SPINEXPO

NEW YORK
FALL/WINTER 2020
H I G H LEV EL OV ERV I EW

EXHIBITION HIGHLIGHTS

TO P YA R N S , ST I TC H E S ,
& PAT T E R N S

R E A L -T I M E T R E N D
WEAR & BREAKAGE : TREND AREA
4-15

FA S H I O N YA R N T R E N D S
16-25

FA S H I O N ST I TC H & PAT T E R N T R E N D S
26-29

TO P TA K E AWAY S
30-31

19/20 VS. 20/21 TRENDS


32-33

STEVEN OO PRESENTS PERSONAL OASIS


34-37

RORY LONGDON PRESENTS SLOWDOWN


38-41

R E A L -T I M E T R E N D
42-43

2 3
WEAR & BREAKAGE
TAKI NG RI SKS AND S EEKI N G R EFU G E. G O I N G B ACK I N TI ME IN O NE H A ND, T H E
DES I R E FO R CH A N G E I N TH E OTH ER

All rev olut ion ary movements mee t bo th wi th re si stanc e and re je c ti o n o f the f u t u re , w i t h a n o s t a lg i a t h at c a n t a ke
extreme forms, making us want to take she l te r to pro te c t o ur se l v e s f ro m o u r o w n e n vi ro n m e n t .

Th e discov er y of a fundamen tal n ee d f o r re f ug e and at the same ti me a wi sh to b e d i ff e re n t , b u t w i t h t h e c o c o o n o f a


famil iar stru ct ure to i mpo se o ur wi l l wi tho ut de v al ui ng o u r a c h i e ve m e n t s .

Th e pa ra llel w ith textil es and fas hi o n tre nds i s c l ear : c reate so me thi ng wi th o u t re j e c t i n g w h at w e h a ve a lrea d y
a c h iev ed, dev elop tomorrow ’s produc ts wi tho ut tur ni ng o ur bac ks o n y e ste rda ys a c h i e ve m e n t s , re vo lu t i o n i s e w i t h o u t
p u tt ing our selves at ris k, combin e s ustai nabl e de v e l o pme nt and pe r so nal de v e lo p m e n t , ex i s t w i t h i n a g ro u p, e m b ra c e
mo de r ni ty and te c hno l o g i c al d e v e l o pme n t .

4 5
Parisian Night
19-4022 TCX
Silver Bullet
17-3933 TCX
MEMORIES &
PERFORMANCE
S E E K ING FU NCTIONALITIE S

Rainy Day Coral Diff e re nt f abrics and y arns are


13-5304 TCX 16-1539 TCX giv e n unif orm col or to al l ow f or
head-to-toe m onochrom e
dre ssing w hil e stre tch asp e cts
and transp are nt y arns driv e
te chnical innov ation.

The custom e r de sire f or


trans-seasonal ite m s driv e ne w
Golden Ochre Tender Shoots de v e l op m e nts. S urf ace s and
16-1346 TCX 14-0446 TCX y arns are coate d f or w ate rp roof
and insul ating asp e cts w ith a
f ocus on breath-abil ity.

S hoe s, socks, activ e f ashion and


athl e suire are e v ol v ing thanks
to ne w sy nthe tic m ate rial s w hich
bl e nd to create structural
Smoke Blue Sulphur Spring contrasts and op tical f inishing.
17-4412 TCX 13-0650 TCX
Natural ne on threads m ix w ith
rustic f ibe rs in natural col ors.

Rich Gold Copper Coin


6 16-0836 TCX 18-1537 TCX 7
PERSONAL
PAT T E R N S
DE M O CRATIZIN G NO BLE FI BERS Rose Taupe Vintage Khaki
18-1612 TCX 16-0205 TCX

Re u s e d a nd recy cled n obl e fibers


in f l u e n ce simple lin es in sp ired
by c o n cept s of gender fluidity,
w h e re ma sculine and feminin e
a re n o l ong er fixed concep ts. Tuscany Abyss
16-1219 TCX 16-4404 TCX
Ya r n s and sur fa ces have a
dis t re s sed finish an d natural
coa r s e ness wh ich provide a
mea s u red a nd control l ed
con t ra st wit h luxury dou ble
j er s e ys .

Re -u s e d a nd recy cled nobl e Sunlight Cognac


nat u ral y a r ns a nd p atterns are 13-0822 TCX 18-1412 TCX
f i b rou s .

H an d m a de a nd h and sp un
qu a l i t i es infor m t he look of the
l u xe n o ma d inspired by ancient
patt e r n s a nd fra gmen ts of the
f i r s t k n own g a r ments.
Iron Pale Khaki
18-1306 TCX 15-1216 TCX

8 9
DISRUPTION
R E CYC LING COLOR S & STITC HE S

Mineral Yellow Mulled Grape


15-1046 TCX 18-3714 TCX

Feathe re d and distorte d p l aids,


dissol v e d and unusual anim al
sk ins.
Evergreen Mayfly
19-5420 TCX 18-0220 TCX
H andm ade and hand p ainte d
l ooks inf l ue nce y arns and
surf ace s w ith e m p hasis on
cl ashing col ors and surf ace
texture in f ragm e nte d grap hic
p atte rns and strip e s.

Re tro m ode rn sp ort grap hics and


Asphalt Cabaret
19-0201 TCX 18-2140 TCX stre e tw ear l ooks inf l ue nce col or
com bos and intarsias.

Arabian Spice Mulberry


19-1245 TCX 17-3014 TCX

10 11
REFUGE
R EV ISITIN G MAT ERI ALS
AN D PADDI NGS
Dragonfly Lavender Lustre
19-4826 TCX 16-3920 TCX

Sm al l abst ra ct pointel l e p atterns


a re i n s pired by everyday
pa c ka ging sur fa ce s and texture.

L ig h t w e ig h t a nd c los e-fittin g Purple Potion Blue Print


pa d d i n g inspired by qu ilted 19-2430 TCX 19-3939 TCX
matt re sses a nd t ec hn ical yarns
bl e n d wit h recy cle d p l astic for
su s t ai n abilit y a nd strength.

Trad i t i ona l ra w a nd new


mat e r i a ls a re re- inventin g
th e m s elv es by int egratin g
pl a s t i c ; a n unfinished l ook Surf Spray Cocoa Brown
in f l u e n ces t ra dit io n al p atterns 14-4087 TCX 18-1222 TCX
a n d e mbroider y.

Patt e r n focus is on s mal l p atterns


a n d p o i nt illism ; a l so abstract an d
mo n o c h rom e g eometrics, min i
str i p e s , a nd 3 D col or play.

Burnt Olive Gray Lilac


18-0521 TCX 13-3804 TCX

12 13
Gray Sand Pewter
13-1010 TCX 18-5203 TCX
EMERGENCE
R E V ISING MINIMALIST
CABLE S & JACQ AU R D S

Lavender Gray Tawny Brown S im p l e m atte surf ace s w ith a


17-3910 TCX 17-1226 TCX l ightl y f roste d ap p earance ; f rost
p atte rns on gl ass insp ire ne w
texture s and j acq uards.

Finishe s re m inisce nt of cocoons


inf orm f al l y arns and stitche s,
sil houe tte s are ov e rsize d and
inf l ate d, w ith p adde d asp e cts.
Stone Wash Niagara
17-3917 TCX 17-4123 TCX S urf ace s and y arns m im ic the
p l ant w orl d insp ire d by w inte r
se e d husks, grains, and drie d
l eav e s.

Ne w 3D texture s are insp ire d by


the p ol y m orp hic shap e s of
conte m p orary de sign,
Epsom Falcon highl ighting the beauty of the
17-0342 TCX 18-1304 TCX m ate rial s w hil e creating a
cocooning and she l te ring e ff e ct
at the sam e tim e .

Silver
14 14-5002 TCX 15
1
TOP 5
FASHION YARN TRENDS

1. CUDD L E U P
2. COLO R P O PTIMISTIC
3. I N T H E CLO UDS
4. HERITAGE T HREA DS
5. S OFT SH IN E

B ou cles, br ush e d, feathers and


f l e e ce dom inat e d the s how for
wa r m a nd coz y moments.

Ch e nille t ook on n ew forms w ith


t ex t ura l qua lit ies and sp acdye
t e c h niques.

Pre d omina nt ly w ithin a neutral


p al e tt e t h is t ren d in fluences
n at u ra l looking yarn s and animal
l i ke text ures.

16 17
2
TOP 5
FASHION YARN TRENDS

1. CU DDL E U P

2 . CO LO R
P O PT IMIST IC
3. I N TH E CLO U DS
4. TWE E D & NE PS
5. S O FT S H I NE

Pl ay f ul col ors inj e ct bright and


op tim istic tone s to a
heav il y brow n and ne utral
p al e tte . The se rich and bol d
j e w e l tone s inf l ue nce m any ty p e s
of y arns: sp ace dy e s, ne p s, and
p re -tw iste d col ors.

Pe rf orm ance y arns in bright


ne ons, sl e e k v iscose and
ray on bl e nds adde d y outhf ul and
sp orty l ooks.

18 19
3
TOP 5
FASHION YARN TRENDS

1 . C UD DLE UP
2 . COLO R P O PTIMISTIC

3. IN TH E
CLO U D S
4 . HERITAGE T HREA DS
5 . S OFT SH IN E

L i g h t weigh t a nd femin in e, these


p l u s h y a r ns in a ran ge of
g au ges from fine to chu nky offer
s o ft s pong ey, springy textu res

Fi n e r g a uge in loos e k nit stitch-


e s o pen up a nd airate the yarns
q u al it y for a n a ll over not-s o-
s h e e r t ra nslucent feel .

S oft e ned h eat h ered sp acedyes


a d d to t h e cloud l ike qu al ities in
t on a l fem inie col ors .

20 21
4
TOP 5
FASHION YARN TRENDS

1. CU DDL E U P
2. CO LO R PO PTI MI STI C
3. I N TH E CLO U DS

4 . H E RITAG E
T H RE AD S
5. S O FT S H I NE

S l ubs and ne p s in rustic and


v e ge tabl e col ors adde d a nod to
tradition in the show. K nots,
crink l e d and crim p e d y arns
create surf ace texture in j e rse y
stitche s.

H its of sl ubbe d or ne p p e d l urex


add shine and high nov e l ty w hil e
rainbow p op s add a y outhf ul
p l ay f ul f e e l .

L ightl y tw iste d rov ing y arns add


sup e r chunky texture s f or
handk nits.

22 23
5
TOP 5
FASHION YARN TRENDS

1. C UD DLE UP
2. COLO R P O PTIMISTIC
3. I N T H E CLO UDS
4. HERITAGE T HREA DS

5. S U B T L E
S H INE
S h i n e int eg rat e d and pre-tw isted
i n t o soft plush base yarn s adds
s u b t le sh eens t o cozier fibers.

H i n t s of sh een and shin e w ere


s e e n a s ch a inettes , an gel hairs ,
l u rex pre- t wist s an d min itu re
s e q uin pa ilett es.

S i l ver, gold a nd bronze metall ics


off e r s a minera l q ual ity.

24 25
TOP 5
PATTE R N TRE N D S

1 . ORGANIC F O R M S
Ja c q ua rds a nd i n tarsias
i n c or porat e both animal an d
c am oufla g e pattern s for a
h yb r id m et h od of movement.

2 . SOFTENED M E NS W E AR
M e n s wea r is softened w ith
n e e dlepunch a nd brushed
e ff e ct s in pla ids, hounds tooths
a n d c h ecks.

3 . DISTRES S E D E F F E CT S
B r u s hst roke effects in s titches
a d d ed a cra ft ed an d diy
a p p ea ra nce t o jaq uards compli-
m e n ting spa cedye yarn s

4 . MODERN HE R ITAG E
N e wness in a rgyles, diamonds
a n d all ov er t ra ditional fair is l e

1 2 3 4 5
d e s i gns br ing cl ass ic s hap es to
m od er n t imes.

5 . DIGITAL G R AP H IC S
H yp e r- bold g ra p hic visu al s
h i g h lig h t t h e importance of
s t re e t wea r.

26 27
TOP 5
ST ITC H T R E ND S

1 . PLUSH VINTAGE
Vintage p ointe l l e s and f e m inine
stitche s ge t m ode rn up date s in
p l ush, f l uff y and boucl e y arns.

2 . CONSTR UCTED CABLES


Cabl e s f e e l archite ctural and
m ore thre e -dim e nsional in ov e r-
size d al l -ov e r stitche s.

3 . MUTLI-SUR FACE
Mul ti-surf ace y arn m ixing and
ottom an ov e rl ay s add extre m e
v ol um e to surf ace s

4 . SOFTENED CHEVR ONS


Che v rons and curv e d stitche s
m ov e softl y to com p l im e nt
m e nsw ear p atte rns.

1 2 3 4 5
5 .PER FOR MANCE
PR OTECTION
Q uil te d and v ol um inous stitche s
off e r p adding and p rote ction in
cl ean and sm ooth y arns.

28 29
TO P TA KEAWAY S
Identifying the top trends in anticipation of seasonal
questions from our customers

Q : Was che ni l l e s t i l l re l evant ? Q: W h at w as th e to p trend i ng Q : H o w i s sh i ne b ei ng used ? Q : W h i c h c o l o rs a re i m p o rt a n t ?


tex tu re?

A: Yes but new n ess w as A : So ft sh e e n a n d s h i n e w a s


A : H y p er-so ft sur fa c e
i nj e c t ed wi th n ovelty i nteg ra l to s o ft a n d p l u s h A: Mo re b ro w n s w e re s e e n i n
y a r ns i n b o uc l es,
c heni l l e s i n sh in e an d dye b a se y a r ns . n at u ra l a n d n u d e s h a d e s . B ri g h t
fl eec es, ted d y y a r ns a nd
t ec hni ques . p l ush y a r ns i n feath ered a n d c o l o rf u l h u e s c o n t ra s t t h e
a nd fur r y tex tures. h ea vi l y n e u t ra l p a l e tt e .

30 31
DATA AN ALYT I CS :

“SUSTAINAB LE ”
ONLINE
SEARCHES ARE
DATA A NLY TIC S:
UP 95%
“ LIGH TWEIGH T” TO LY
ONLINE F UNCT IONAL
S E AR CH E S AR E UP SUSTAINABLE
T EDDY & PERFORM ANCE
35% TO LY T EX T UR ES

SUPER SOF T,

19/20 VS. 20/21


SUPER LIGH T
TWISTED
ST R UCT UR E TEXTUR ES
CO M PA RING YARN TRE NDS F ROM THIS YE AR TO LAST YEAR

DATA AN ALYS I S :

H IGH “TEDDY” ONLINE


SEARCHES ARE
The biggest trend this year was an emphasis on performance based yarns and the integral use of sustainable and functional yarns SH INE
EXPECTED TO INCREASE
within trend categories. Teddy textures continued to showcase plush yarns across multiple fibers and fiber blends coupled with AT A 46%
extremely soft and lightweight yarns in fine to mid to chunky gauges. Twisted textures showcased tweedy looks and a craftier FL AT
ACCELERATION RATE
appeal while structure in yarns and stitches created volume. SUR FAC ES
DRY FALL/HO L 2018 DATA:
Generally there was less high shine drapey viscose, or extreme metallics as shine and sheen was more integral to soft and plush H A N D FEEL “FLUFFY” ONLINE
yarn bases. Flat surfaces were replaced with voluminous and three-dimensional surfaces. Rough or dry handfeels was not SEARCHES ARE UP 9%
represented with all qualities feeling super soft. COMPARED TO 3
MONTHS AGO

32 33
PERSONAL OASIS
STE V E N O O

Now here are we mo re i n tune wi th o ur se l v e s than whe n w e a re at h o m e .

St ev en O o sh o w cas es timeless an d uni sex g ar me nts made o f l uxur y f i be r s wi t h a n e m p h a s i s o n c o m f o rt a n d ea s e o f


wear ov er h ig h fas hion . The garmen ts we re pre se nte d wi th the i dea that the y c a n b e w o rn f o r b o t h h o m e a n d o u t d o o r
wear, o ff e r i ng sty l e wi th v e r sati l i ty and c o m f o rt .

34 35
36 37
SLOWDOWN
RO RY LO NG D O N

In thi s f ast mo v i ng wo r l d, we are al way s o n th e g o.


Travell in g, sta y i ng c o nne c te d and ke e pi ng i n to uc h are ea s i e r t h a n e ve r.
We are al w ays o n the mo v e and we want to be c o mf o rtable a n d f a s h i o n a b le .

E q ua lly our t ime at home is becomi ng i nc reasi ng l y pre c i o us. Ho me and ac c e s s o ri e s a d d e d a f a m i li a r f e e l f o r i n t e ri o r


d e si g n o f c o zy d e c o rati v e spac e s.

Ror y Longdon p res ented des igns to re f l e c t the transi ti o n b e twe e n o ur ho m e li ve s a n d o u r li ve s i n s o c i e t y.


A st y le that takes u s from home to the next l e g o f a pl ane jo ur ne y o r f rom t h e g ym t o o u r f a vo u ri t e s t o re .

38 39
40 41
R E A L -T I M E G LO B A L R E TA I L
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42 43
K A T I E - J A N E kjbailey@brilliantemail.com L A U R A lauraconnell@brilliantemail.com

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