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Social Science & Medicine 56 (2003) 1505–1515

Charitable food assistance as symbolic gesture:


an ethnographic study of food banks in Ontario
Valerie Tarasuka,*, Joan M. Eakinb
a
Department of Nutritional Sciences, University of Toronto, Faculty of Medicine, 150 College Street, Toronto, Ont., Canada, M5S 3E2
b
Department of Public Health Sciences, Faculty of Medicine, University of Toronto, Toronto, Ont., Canada

Abstract

Community-based charitable food assistance programs have recently been established in several affluent nations to
distribute public and corporate food donations to ‘the needy’. In Canada, food banks comprise the primary response to
hunger and food insecurity, but problems of unmet food need persist. We conducted an ethnographic study of food
bank work in southern Ontario to examine the functioning of these extra-governmental, charitable food assistance
programs in relation to problems of unmet need. Our results suggest that the limited, variable and largely
uncontrollable supply of food donations shaped the ways in which food assistance was defined and the practices that
governed its distribution. Workers framed the food assistance as a supplement or form of acute hunger relief, but
generally acknowledged that the food given was insufficient to fully meet the needs of those who sought assistance. In
response to supply limitations, workers restricted both the frequency with which individual clients could receive
assistance and the amount and selection of food that they received on any one occasion. Food giving was essentially a
symbolic gesture, with the distribution of food assistance dissociated from clients’ needs and unmet needs rendered
invisible. We conclude that, structurally, food banks lack the capacity to respond to the food needs of those who seek
assistance. Moreover, the invisibility of unmet need in food banks provides little impetus for either community groups
or government to seek solutions to this problem.
r 2002 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved.

Keywords: Food assistance; Food banks; Food security; Ethnography; Canada

Introduction 1997). Variously termed ‘food poverty’ or ‘food


insecurity’, this issue has sometimes been described as
In the 1980s and 1990s, food scarcity and food a paradox of ‘want amidst plenty’ (Hawkes & Webster,
deprivation became recognized problems among the 2000), given the abundance of food in these countries
poor in many affluent western nations (Alaimo, Briefel, and the fact that a considerable amount of food is
Frongillo, & Olson, 1998; Andrews, Nord, Bickel, & wasted through current production, retail, and consu-
Carlson, 2000; Craig & Dowler, 1997; Davis & Tarasuk, mer practices (e.g. an estimated 27% of food in the US
1994; Lang, 1997; Lang, 1999; Leather, 1996; Le Bihan, goes to waste (Hawkes & Webster, 2000). The jobless-
Michaud, & Rotily, 1997; McIntyre, Connor, & Warren, ness, low wages, and inadequate welfare benefits that
2000; New Zealand Network Against Food Poverty, underpin problems of food insecurity among the poor
1999; Nord, Jemison, & Bickel, 1999; Poppendieck, have been linked to changing social and economic
1995; Poppendieck, 1997; Riches, 1997a, b; Russell et al., conditions and fundamental shifts in social policies
1999; Tarasuk & Davis, 1996; Uttley, 1997; Wilson, (including particularly, welfare reforms) that have
accompanied the neoliberal economics of this period
*Corresponding author. Tel.: 1-416-978-0618; fax: 1-416-978- (Riches, 1997c).
5882. In the context of reductions in publicly funded
E-mail address: valerie.tarasuk@utoronto.ca (V. Tarasuk). programs for the poor and unemployed, one response

0277-9536/02/$ - see front matter r 2002 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved.
PII: S 0 2 7 7 - 9 5 3 6 ( 0 2 ) 0 0 1 5 2 - 1
1506 V. Tarasuk, J.M. Eakin / Social Science & Medicine 56 (2003) 1505–1515

to the food problems of low-income groups in many retail quality or nearing their expiry dates (Teron &
countries has been the establishment of community- Tarasuk, 1999). Some food banks augment food
based, charitable food assistance programs. The solicita- donations with food purchases, but the absence of core
tion of charitable food donations from the public is funding or large cash donations generally limits this
often combined with the collection and redistribution of practice.
‘surplus’ food—food that cannot be sold through Food banks began to be established in Canada during
regular market channels. Although the initiatives vary the recession of the early 1980s and were initially
in terms of government involvement, funding, regula- construed as temporary relief operations (Riches, 1986).
tory controls, voluntary sector participation, and However, the programs rapidly proliferated and de-
reliance on agricultural surplus versus donations from mands for food assistance steadily grew (Canadian
food retailers, surplus food redistribution schemes have Association of Food Banks, 1998; Wilson & Steinman,
been described in the United States, Canada, Australia, 2000). Although no recent annual estimates are avail-
New Zealand, the United Kingdom, France, Germany, able, 8.6% of the population were estimated to use food
Spain, Italy, Belgium, Poland, Portugal, Greece, Ireland, banks in 1994 (Riches, 1997b). Nonetheless, many
Czechoslovakia, and Romania (Gerbouin-R!erolle & people still report serious food shortages, hunger, and
Chabeau, 1997; Hawkes & Webster, 2000; Le Bihan, food deprivation (Antoniades & Tarasuk, 1998; Badun,
Michaud, & Rotily, 1997; New Zealand Network Evers, & Hooper, 1995; Che & Chen, 2001; Dachner &
Against Food Poverty, 1999; Poppendieck, 1995,1998a; Tarasuk, forthcoming; Hamelin, Beaudry, & Habicht,
Riches, 1986, 1997b). In the United Kingdom, the 2002; Jacobs Starkey, Kuhnlein, & Gray-Donald, 1998;
expansion of surplus-food redistribution is currently a McIntyre, Connor & Warren, 2000; Tarasuk & Beaton,
topic of heated debate (Hawkes & Webster, 2000). 1999a). Food bank client surveys suggest that many
The mobilization of community resources to collect receive insufficient assistance to meet their needs
and redistribute ‘surplus’ food to feed the hungry is a (Hobbs, MacEachern, McIvor, & Turner, 1993; Jacobs
compelling strategy from several perspectives. In the Starkey, Kuhnlein, & Gray-Donald, 1998; Jacobs
context of hunger and food insecurity, redistributing Starkey & Kuhnlein, 2000; Jacobs Starkey, Gray-
rather than wasting food can be seen as a moral Donald, & Kuhnlein, 1999; Tarasuk & Beaton,
imperative (Hawkes & Webster, 2000; Riches, 1986). 1999a, b). In addition, examinations of the assistance
The diversion of food from landfill sites is also appealing provided by food banks confirm the limited quantity
from an environmental perspective. Surplus food redis- and nutritional quality of food available for distribution
tribution programs provide an economical and ‘envir- (Jacobs Starkey, 1994; Kennedy, Sheeshka & Smedmor,
onmentally friendly’ means for food corporations to 1992; Teron & Tarasuk, 1999).
dispose of unsaleable products, while also being an Although there is research documenting unmet need
expression of good corporate citizenship (Cooper, 1997; and several authors have questioned the appropriateness
DeLind, 1994; Poppendieck, 1998a; Riches, 1997b). In and effectiveness of food banks as a means to address
some countries (notably the European Union and the food problems in Canada that are rooted in severe and
United States), these schemes provide a mechanism chronic poverty (Jacobs Starkey, Kuhnlein, & Gray-
through which governments can manage agricultural Donald, 1998; Riches, 1989; Riches, 1997b; Tarasuk &
surplus (Hawkes & Webster, 2000; Poppendieck, 1998a). Beaton, 1999a; Tarasuk & Maclean, 1990), there has
Insofar as the programs are operated by the voluntary been little study of the way food banks operate and how
sector, they appear to be almost cost-free. Further, this they deal with client need. In search of insight into the
response to problems of hunger and food insecurity is functioning of food banks in relation to continued
consistent with the current emphasis on private sector problems of hunger and food insecurity, we conducted
and market-based solutions to social problems in the an ethnographic study of food bank work in southern
context of welfare reforms. Ontario. We were particularly interested in learning how
In Canada, food assistance is distributed by ‘food issues of client need were constructed and managed in
banks’, extra-governmental community organizations the context of everyday operations. We chose to use
that collect donated foodstuffs and redistribute them to ethnographic methods because they are especially
the ‘needy’, working largely with volunteer labour and appropriate for understanding phenomena in context
donated equipment and facilities. Some of the food and have been used successfully to elucidate the
comes from the public (typically garnered through ‘food operations and functions of other community-based
drives’), but in many regions, the bulk of the food food programs (Dayle, McIntyre, & Raine-Travers,
distributed is donated by food producers, processors, 2000; Glasser, 1988). This paper reports on one
and retailers. Much of this food is donated because it important set of findings from our research: how food
cannot be retailed due to manufacturing errors or banks’ reliance on donations promotes a system of
damage during shipping, handling, and storage, or food distribution that is disassociated from clients’ food
because the products are perishable and no longer of needs.
V. Tarasuk, J.M. Eakin / Social Science & Medicine 56 (2003) 1505–1515 1507

Methods observing what went on; in other instances she


participated in the staff’s activities, doing whatever
The study consisted of the collection and analysis of seemed helpful or appropriate (e.g. assisting with the re-
observational and interview data on the day-to-day packaging of bulk dry foodstuffs). Her identity as a
operation of 15 food banks in Toronto (a highly researcher was made known. Detailed observations were
multicultural city of 3 million) and in several smaller recorded on audio-tape after each visit.
communities nearby. The study protocol was approved At each site between two and three ‘front line’
by the Human Subjects Review Committee at the workers were approached for individual, semi-struc-
University of Toronto. Data gathering was carried out tured, taped interviews, which were typically held in a
over 18 months, from January, 1999 to July, 2000. quiet part of the food bank. Most workers were
Initially, random selection was used to identify eight approached by the researcher during an observation
food banks from among the 49 organizations distribut- visit, and were selected to tap different types of workers
ing food from a central food collection and coordinating and perspectives both within the particular food bank
agency in the city. Random selection was used to ensure and across the sample. Participation was voluntary,
basic diversity in food bank features because at this confidential, and secured by informed consent. In one
stage we had limited knowledge of how they differed food bank, workers declined to be interviewed; it was
from each other or the significance of such difference for unclear to us whether this was due to an inappropriate
the way they operated. This initial sample included food approach on our part or to ongoing tensions between
banks that varied in terms of such characteristics as the food bank and the umbrella organization related to
organizational sponsorship, array of services offered, food distribution practices. In total, 29 workers were
location, sources of food, and type of staff. interviewed.
Subsequent food banks were selected through a Observations and interviews were directed by the on-
‘theoretical sampling’ strategy whereby food banks were going positioning of the analysis, as is the practice in
chosen in order to explore specific issues or emerging most forms of qualitative research. Generally, however,
hypotheses that arose in the analysis (which, as is field observations focussed on the material environment,
common to much qualitative research, occurred simul- appearance and behaviour of clients and workers, and
taneously with data collection) and to enable strategic interaction (Lofland & Lofland, 1995). In the interviews,
comparative analysis, a core ethnographic technique which typically lasted from 1 to 2 h, workers were asked
(Glaser & Strauss, 1967; Hammersley & Atkinson, to talk about how they had come to such work, what
1983). For example, through our analysis of the factors they did, and how they understood the nature of the
shaping distribution practices, we identified the need to work, the agencies they worked for, the clients they
sample food banks that did not operate under the served and their needs, and the role and function of food
umbrella of the city’s central coordinating agency. banks. The role of the researcher in qualitative data
Similarly, we sought out food banks that had some collection is a singularly important one that functions as
paid staff and ones that were client-run, in order to a key resource in the research process (Patton, 1999). In
explore the significance of these features on distribution our case, we believe that the project benefited substan-
practices and workers’ perceptions of food bank work. tially from the research assistant’s personal familiarity
Food banks were added to the sample until we were and experience with the people and subject of the
satisfied that we had captured the range of operating research, in terms both of the trust she was able to
styles among food banks in this region, and that develop with participants and the acuity of her
methodological ‘saturation’ had been reached - the observations and interpretations.
point at which no new dimensions or disconfirming Verbatim transcripts of the field observations and
evidence of our concepts and analysis were being interviews were managed and analyzed with the
identified (Strauss & Corbin, 1991). assistance of a computer software program for qualita-
Data consisted of on-site observations of food bank tive data (The Ethnograph, Qualis Research Associates,
operations, and personal individual interviews with 1995). The theoretical approach to analysis was ‘struc-
workers. Permission to observe and to interview staff tural-interactionist’ (Eakin & MacEachen, 1998) in that
was sought in advance from the director or coordinator it tried to link workers’ subjectivity and practices to
of each food bank selected, after the research objectives broader social and organizational conditions and con-
and protocol had been fully disclosed. A research textual circumstance (Ezzy, 1997; Silverman, 1985).
assistant visited each of the food banks on two occasions Analytic techniques included the use of selected proce-
for a period of several hours during their hours of dures of grounded theory analysis (Glaser & Strauss,
operation. Care was taken to ensure that observations 1967), particularly the techniques of constant compar-
encompassed all major activities (e.g., set-up, receipt of ison and concept construction. Interpretive strategies
food deliveries, food distribution, clean-up). Sometimes drew on symbolic interactionist and narrative perspec-
the researcher sat unobtrusively in waiting areas tives (Denzin & Lincoln, 1994). Our primary analytic
1508 V. Tarasuk, J.M. Eakin / Social Science & Medicine 56 (2003) 1505–1515

technique was in-depth, repeated, independent reading their place of residence, income and basic expenditures.
of observations and verbatim interview texts, accom- Because the distribution of food assistance in this area
panied by exhaustive discussion to ensure that the was organized into geographic units, clients were
interpretations were robust and fully grounded empiri- screened to ensure that they lived in the correct
cally. Data segments were coded according to a catchment area. In what amounted to a means test,
conceptual schema that was developed during this income and expenditure information was compared with
process. Re-analysis by conceptual category across and some income-based criterion of ‘need’ to determine
within food banks (with the assistance of search and eligibility for food assistance. Criteria varied across
combine capacities of the software) allowed refinement agencies; some were developed ‘in-house’, but two
and solidification of the emerging analysis. Our analyses agencies used standard government definitions of ‘low
were assisted by the development of summaries of income’, such as the Statistics Canada Low-Income Cut-
individual workers and food banks, and by constant offs (National Council of Welfare, 1999).
‘memoing’ of themes, concepts, and emerging theoriza- Those who qualified for food were then given
tions. The active participation of the research assistant assistance, typically in the form of one or more bags
in discussions of the data further ensured that our of groceries. Ideally, the food was intended to last clients
interpretations remained grounded in the data. for some preset number of days (typically two or three).
In some food banks the bags were prepacked by
workers; in others, clients were permitted some choice
Findings over what they received. In addition, some food banks
had a ‘free table’ of damaged goods, outdated products,
Overview of how food banks operate highly perishable produce, or products of low utility.
Clients were permitted to take as much of this food as
The food banks in this study operated under the they wanted. Some food banks also offered other kinds
general direction of church groups or non-governmen- of assistance to clients, such as information about local
tal, community service agencies. Although some were in programs, job training opportunities, etc; referrals to
facilities that had been constructed or renovated other programs and services; assistance in finding
specifically for their purpose, many food banks were affordable housing; and free, used clothing.
housed in makeshift accommodations at the sites of In the sections that follow, we examine the ways in
their ‘parent’ organizations. Most distributed food 2–3 which food banks’ reliance on food donations defined
times per week, typically operating for 2–4 h at a time. their work and led to food distribution practices that
Although paid staff persons functioned as coordinators effectively dissociated the act of giving food assistance
in some food banks, the vast majority of the day-to-day from client need. Here ‘need’ refers simply to the
work of running the food banks was done by volunteers. requirement for food that is implicit in the client’s
These were typically unemployed people, and in some request for food assistance.
agencies they included former and current food bank
clients. In some food banks, people were also working The problem of supply
there to fulfill student placements, community service
sentences, or work-for-welfare requirements. In all of the food banks studied, the available supply
Most of the food banks received food from a central of food for distribution was limited and highly variable,
collection centre that gathered food from industry and being contingent upon charitable donations. The pro-
public donations, although a few food banks solicited blem of supply had fundamental implications for the
donations directly. Some agencies augmented the supply food that could be given to clients. As one worker
of industry and public donations with food purchases, explained, ‘‘We have to give them just what we have’’
collections of unsaleable perishable foods from local (1302)1. As food donations fluctuated, so did the
retailers, and local church donations. When food amount and selection of foods distributed: ‘‘At certain
donations were delivered, workers sorted and shelved times of the year, in between food drives and so on, we
or refrigerated the food for later use. When fresh give them less’’ (0901). Workers felt powerless to do
produce or damaged or outdated products were anything other than decrease food assistance as supplies
received, food fit for distribution was separated from became depleted. ‘‘When the shelves are bare, the
items considered to be inedible (e.g., rotten vegetables) shelves are bare’’ (1102).
or requiring additional work (e.g., repackaging, clean- The selection and quality of foods available for
ing, culling) before distribution. distribution was also a function of the kinds of
When people came for food assistance, they were donations received. Despite the efforts workers in some
initially interviewed by food bank staff to determine
their eligibility. Prospective clients were typically re- 1
Denotes the food bank and interviewee from which the
quired to present identification documents and proof of quote was extracted.
V. Tarasuk, J.M. Eakin / Social Science & Medicine 56 (2003) 1505–1515 1509

food banks put into cleaning up and repackaging money to buy the other kinds of food they required.
damaged goods and culling edible produce from Similarly, the food bank might not be able to offer
donations of perishable fruits and vegetables, the quality appropriate foods for a diabetic client, but the client
of the food they distributed was largely outside their could use the foods given when he or she had visitors.
control. ‘‘We can’t help what you get’’, a worker
explained (1501). The only decision latitude workers Isn’t it help for them not to spend their own money
had was in deciding whether or not a particular food for something like this? They can go and buy exactly
item was fit for consumption. Given the limited supply, the stuff they need from the store. (0701)
however, they appeared more likely to try to salvage
food than discard it. The construction of charitable food assistance as a
The problem of supply—the limited, variable, and supplement to household food purchases was particu-
largely uncontrollable supply of food—had important larly significant given the role of food banks in
implications for how the work of food banks was distributing industry donations. In the course of
defined and legitimated, and for how assistance was accepting donations of food products that would
provided. otherwise be dumped in landfill sites, food banks
received some products with little or no nutritional
value (e.g., food colouring, condiments), as well as
The meaning of the food assistance and client need
products that were in very poor condition, outdated, or
unfamiliar to clients. Whereas the distribution of some
Workers appeared to understand the meaning of the
of these foods might have been considered inappropriate
food assistance they provided in one of two ways: (i) as a
if the goal was to meet clients’ food or nutrition needs,
supplement to clients’ existing resources; (ii) as immedi-
defining food assistance as a supplement justified the
ate relief from the physical sensation of hunger. As
distribution of any and all kinds of products and
discussed in this section, each perspective on the
rendered less relevant questions about the amount of
meaning of food assistance was related to the problem
food given.
of supply, and each served to legitimate the work of food
banks given the constraints imposed by the problem of
supply. Further, each perspective represented a parti- Food assistance as immediate relief from hunger
cular conception of client need.
In contrast to the construction of food assistance as a
supplement, some of the workers we interviewed framed
Food assistance as a supplement
it terms of hunger relief. Clients’ need for assistance was
understood as urgent and extreme desperation for food.
Some workers understood clients’ needs for food as
As one worker explained, ‘‘There are people that will
vast and perpetual, rooted in their chronically low
starve without the food banks’’ (1001). Giving some
incomes. Given the problem of supply, the idea that
food—any food—to people in these circumstances was
food banks could satisfy the food needs of all those who
worthwhile because ‘‘at least we know they will have
sought assistance was untenable for these workers.
something, and it’s better than nothing’’ (0102).
There’s no way we could supply any family with what Although the perspective might seem in opposition to
they totally need. We’re only a supplement, and the notion of food assistance as a supplement, both
that’s the best we can do as a food bank. If we start framings of the work appeared to coexist. One worker
supplying a family with a total need ... we’d run out differentiated between different types of clients—those
[of food] so fast it wouldn’t be funny. (0401) who would starve without the assistance they received
from food banks, and those who were simply supple-
Constructing food assistance as a supplement dimin- menting their low incomes with the free food.
ished the importance of the quantity of food provided to The framing of food assistance as hunger relief also
clients. The objective of providing food assistance appeared intimately intertwined with the problem of
became ‘‘helping clients to get through the month’’, supply. It served to justify the distribution of any and all
but not actually trying to ensure that their food needs kinds of food products, in any amounts, because any
were fully met. food given could serve to abate immediate sensations of
The framing of food assistance as a supplement also hunger. Thus clients’ willingness to accept even stale
served to lessen the importance of the particular baked goods and damaged canned and packaged foods
selection of foods distributed since there was no illusion were cited as evidence of their need for food. Interest-
that the assistance was intended to completely meet ingly, like those who framed food assistance as a
clients’ food needs. One worker explained that even if supplement, workers who spoke of food assistance as
they only had sweets to give out, these could be used as hunger relief did not appear to see themselves as
treats for the children and parents could use their own responsible for meeting such desperate food needs in
1510 V. Tarasuk, J.M. Eakin / Social Science & Medicine 56 (2003) 1505–1515

any consistent or ongoing way. They just did what they The management of choice
could.
In addition to shaping the ways in which the work of In addition to having implications for the frequency
food banks was defined and legitimated, the problem of with which individual clients could receive assistance,
supply had profound implications for the way in which the problem of supply also underpinned the practice of
food was distributed to those who sought assistance. It managing client choice. The amount and selection of
underpinned the practices of restricting individuals’ food that clients received was carefully controlled, with
access to assistance, and controlling the selection and food distribution structured to provide clients with a
limiting the amount of foods they received. The problem standard amount and mix of foods, to the extent that
of supply also set the stage for food rationing, as supplies permitted. This typically included giving each
workers endeavoured to maintain operations despite client foods from the different food groups in Canada’s
extremely limited supplies. Food Guide to Healthy Eating (Health Canada, 1997),
presumably in a effort to provide them with a ‘balanced’
diet. Some workers also tried to ensure that each client
The restriction of access to assistance received a selection of foods that could be combined into
meals (e.g., dried pasta given with a can of sauce).
In response to the limited supply of donated food, However, the net effect of these practices was to limit
food banks limited individual clients’ access to any one client’s access to particular classes of food,
food assistance. All of the food banks visited had ensuring that each client got a mix of foods of varied
policies and procedures in place to limit the frequency nutritional value and market value, and probably of
with which individual clients could obtain assistance. varied desirability.
Typically, clients were permitted to receive assistance Within this general practice, two distinct approaches
once per month, although a few food banks allowed to food distribution were observed, reflecting different
more frequent access (e.g., once per week) for views on the importance of permitting clients choice
clients identified through means testing as living in over the foods received. In some food banks, workers
particularly desperate circumstances. Once deemed prepared bags of food for distribution with little or no
eligible for food assistance, clients were expected to input from clients. The premise underlying this practice
learn and comply with the food bank’s rules regarding was captured in a sign posted in one such agency. It
frequency. Some food banks provided clients with read:
appointment cards, reminding them of the next date
when they would again be able to obtain food assistance. Most of the food that we dispense here comes from
Workers diligently maintained computerized or paper [central distribution agency]. We accept all kinds of
files to track the frequency with which individual clients food in any brands and we expect you to as well. No
obtained assistance, and rules on the permitted fre- substitutions are allowed.
quency of assistance appeared to be strictly enforced in
Workers often explained that the food bank was not a
most food banks. It was not unusual for clients who
grocery store, so people could not expect to select the
sought help earlier than their prescribed date to be told
foods they received. Some workers maintained that if
to come back later.
people were really hungry, they would take whatever
Restrictions on clients’ access to assistance were
they were offered.
intimately linked to the problem of supply. One
By contrast, other agencies had systems in place to
worker in an agency that endeavoured to provide clients
permit clients’ some choice about the selection of foods
with a three-day supply of food, once per month,
they received, within specific parameters. Workers in
explained that this was ‘‘the maximum the agency
these agencies maintained that the practice of giving
can do’’ (1102). If they permitted greater access, they
clients’ choice represented an important show of respect
would be forced to limit the number of days they
for them.
were opened, and thus limit the number of people
they served. Rather than providing greater access to I won’t say, ‘you’re begging for something [so] you
assistance for a smaller number, the food bank opted must take whatever you get’. I don’t look at it that
to serve more people but give them less food. It is way. I believe that whatever you like - [if] we have it,
unclear what constituted the optimal balance between you get it. (0602)
the number of clients served and amount of assistance
provided to each client. However, the interplay Workers in one agency provided clients with shopping
between food banks’ hours of operation and policies carts and permitted them to move through the store-
regarding the frequency with which clients would room, filling their carts with foods of their choosing,
be served importantly shaped the assistance they constrained only by the agency’s predetermined limits
provided. for particular classes of foods. More commonly,
V. Tarasuk, J.M. Eakin / Social Science & Medicine 56 (2003) 1505–1515 1511

however, clients identified their selections by ticking needs, but, in the context of supply constraints, they
options on a questionnaire or verbally indicated their perceived themselves as powerless to do anything other
choices from among a selection of foods shown to them, than ‘give less’.
but workers assembled the hampers. The practice of
permitting clients’ some choice clearly enabled the I know there for a while we were running really
assistance to be better tailored to their individual low.... People were coming in complaining, you
preferences and needs, but the amount and selection of know, that this isn’t going to last us, and we just
food clients received was still limited and tightly couldn’t help them any more than we were. (1501)
managed.
One worker described having so little food left that all
In summary, although systems of food distribution
they could give people was cereal or snack foods, but
varied across food banks, the management of the
explained
amount and selection of food given to any one client
was integral to all of the distribution systems we We know they can’t live off of snacks, but ... we’re
observed. The practice arose in response to the limited, going to give it to them still. At least we know that
highly variable, and largely uncontrollable supply of they [will] have something and it’s better than
food available for distribution. nothing. (0102).

Rationing Even paltry levels of assistance were seen as critical to


some clients because the food could abate immediate
The impact of the problem of supply on food problems of hunger.
distribution practices was most evident when supplies
became severely limited. Regardless of whether or not The dissociation of food assistance from client need
clients were permitted choice over the foods they
received, when food supplies became depleted, food The foregoing examination of food distribution
distribution in all of the food banks observed became a practices reveals how, in the wake of the problem of
process of rationing whatever food was on hand to supply, the distribution of food assistance was largely
ensure that it ‘lasted’ for the hours of operation. In one dissociated from client need, irrespective of how this
food bank that was open three times/week and received need was understood. The frequency with which clients
weekly food deliveries from a central food distribution could receive assistance and the level of assistance they
agency, workers systematically divided the week’s received on any one occasion were driven not by their
supply into thirds to ensure that they had always had needs for food so much as by food bank policies and
something to give out during business hours and that the practices designed to maintain operations in the face of a
selection of foods available for distribution would be limited, highly variable, and largely uncontrollable
more or less consistent across the week. Despite efforts supply of food donations. Even in food banks where
like these, however, the selection of foods often the frequency of access to assistance was tailored to
deteriorated during the intervals between deliveries of some measure of client need and clients were permitted
food donations. Even between opening and closing time, some choice over what they received, the assistance
supplies of some foods could run out. Thus clients at provided was tightly managed, and it was ultimately a
some food banks lined up outside the doors to ensure function of the existing supply of donated foodstuffs.
that they would be served first when the food bank When supplies were constrained, assistance was reduced.
opened. Food distribution appeared governed by the principle
While it might be surmised that, despite the efforts to that all those deemed eligible for assistance be given
ration remaining stock, food banks would eventually something, no matter how little. In this context, the
run out of food if food shortages persisted for any length giving of food was essentially a symbolic gesture, with
of time, only one instance of a food bank closing distribution practices designed to maintain operations
because of lack of food was reported to us. Workers but dissociated from clients’ actual or perceived needs.
appeared to take pride in the fact that they had The dissociation of food assistance from client need
successfully managed periods of low supply through and the construction of food assistance as a symbolic
careful planning and rationing. Even when food supplies gesture had significant implications for clients. From the
were severely restricted, distribution practices in most workers’ perspective, it was not appropriate for clients
food banks appeared to be guided by the principle that to look to food banks to meet their needs. In the same
anyone who had been deemed eligible to receive way that workers were not responsible for the supply of
assistance be given something. One worker explained, food they had available for distribution, they did not see
‘‘we just can’t turn them away’’ (0102). themselves as being responsible for meeting clients’
Workers readily acknowledged that the food they needs. Thus clients were expected to respect the food
were giving out was far from adequate to meet clients’ bank’s efforts, recognize the constraints under which
1512 V. Tarasuk, J.M. Eakin / Social Science & Medicine 56 (2003) 1505–1515

they operated and, in keeping with the spirit of More typically however, workers did not understand
charitable giving, accept any gesture of food assistance clients’ so-called ‘abuse’ behaviour as arising from
with gratitude. Indeed, displays of gratitude were central their unmet food needs. Although workers recognized
to the satisfaction some workers derived from their jobs. that both the amount of food clients received and
Some workers cited clients’ gratitude as indication of the frequency with which they were permitted to obtain
their need for food. As one worker explained, ‘‘When a assistance were a function of supply limitations, in
person comes to the food bank, I feel they need food discussions of abuse, workers appeared to set their food
when they get their food and they’re very thankful for distribution practices beyond question. Evidence of
what they get’’ (1301). Further, the legitimacy of clients’ ‘abuse’ was grounds for denying clients’ assistance
needs could be drawn into question if they failed to and possibly even banning them from receiving assis-
respond with gratitude for whatever assistance they were tance in the future. Like the discourse of gratitude, the
offered. discourse of abuse functioned to suppress evidence of
unmet need among clients, effectively rendering their
There have been times when our shelves have been need invisible.
totally empty, and we’re squeezing out as much as we In summary, we have argued that the limited, variable
can. ... Those who are really in desperate need will and largely uncontrollable supply of food donations in
come in and they’ll say, ‘oh thank you’ ... and the food banks shaped the way in which food assistance was
other people will come in and they say, ‘well is this all defined and the practices that governed its distribution.
we’re getting?’ Well those ones I worry about. (1502) Workers framed the food as a supplement, or in some
cases, as a form of acute hunger relief, but they were
Clients were actively discouraged from asserting their under no illusions that the food they provided would
needs or appraising the gesture of food assistance. The fully meet the needs of those who sought their
responses of gratitude that workers valued functioned to assistance. The distribution of food assistance in day-
further mask clients’ real needs, while giving the to-day practice was, for the most part, dissociated from
impression that they had, in some way, been satisfied. client need. The frequency with which clients could
The dissociation of food distribution from clients’ receive assistance and the amount and selection of food
food needs and the construction of food assistance as a they received on any one occasion were determined by
symbolic gesture also set the stage for people to be food bank policies and practices designed to maintain
labelled as ‘abusers of the system’ if they attempted to operations in the face of supply limitations and
obtain greater access to food assistance than permitted fluctuations. Within this context, the giving of food
by agency distribution policies. A client might do this by was a symbolic gesture. Clients were expected to be
providing a false name and address or by going to more grateful for whatever food they received, and not to
than one food bank so as to circumvent agency tracking appraise or reject the gesture or to assert their needs for
systems. Such incidents perhaps help to account for the more food. Those who attempted to gain greater access
demand for identification and other documents to be to food by circumventing distribution policies were
presented at the initial assessments of client eligibility in labelled ‘abusers’ and risked being banned from the food
all of the food banks observed, and some food banks’ bank indefinitely. The dissociation of food distribution
practice of requesting proof of identity to be presented from need and the suppression of evidence of unmet
at each subsequent visit. Discussions of ‘abuse’ were need among clients through the discourses of abuse and
common among workers in most of the food banks gratitude effectively rendered clients’ food needs invi-
visited. sible.
One worker, herself with a history of poverty,
empathized with those who were caught ‘abusing’ the
system. ‘‘I know what it was like to, you know, be short Discussion and conclusions
of food’’ (1502), she explained. This woman spoke about
the importance of flexibility in distribution policies, The dissociation of distribution practices from clients’
recognizing that some people really do need help more actual or stated food needs that has been described here
frequently than policies permit. ‘‘There are people that seems inevitable given the supply driven nature of food
have come in [more frequently than they were supposed banks. Distribution practices that limit both the
to] that you know that they’re in definite need, and we’ll frequency with which individual clients can receive
just give [food] to them’’ (1502). The link between assistance and the amount and selection of food that
apparent abuse of the system and unmet need was they receive on any one occasion are rooted in the
echoed by another worker who explained, ‘‘If somebody necessity for workers to carefully manage the limited
abuses the food bank it’s because they need food ... and supply. When supplies are severely constrained, our
if you stop and look at the food that food banks give research suggests that food giving is more a symbolic
out, it’s ... nothing very grand’’ (1102). gesture than a response to need.
V. Tarasuk, J.M. Eakin / Social Science & Medicine 56 (2003) 1505–1515 1513

Despite the political appeal of ‘food drives’ and (called ‘food pantries’ in that country) are more
‘surplus’ food redistribution schemes as a means to centrally coordinated than those in Canada and include
address problems of hunger and food insecurity, the more active government involvement, these programs
supply driven nature of these initiatives presents a have also been described as donor-driven, rather than
serious limitation. Structurally, food banks lack the needs-driven (Poppendieck, 1994). In her extensive study
capacity to respond to the food needs of those who seek of food pantries in the US, Poppendieck (1998a)
assistance—a finding that may explain the reports of observed that supply limitations shaped distribution
unmet food needs among food bank users in Canada practices. As in the food banks studied here, food
(Hobbs et al. (1993); Jacobs Starkey, Kuhnlein, & Gray- distribution in the US programs was characterized by
Donald, 1998; Jacobs Starkey, Gray-Donald, & Kuhn- the management of choice and restrictions in food
lein, 1999; Jacobs Starkey & Kuhnlein, 2000; Tarasuk & access. Similarly; Curtis (1997), in a study of food
Beaton, 1999a; Tarasuk & Beaton, 1999b). Further, our pantries in Delaware, documented reductions in the
findings provide no indication that the restructuring of amount of food assistance provided to households as
individual agencies or redesign of distribution practices demand increased, and the periodic closure of some
would ameliorate this problem. Increasing the supply of pantries because they literally ran out of food. Interest-
donated foodstuffs available for distribution would ingly, in their study of four Paris food assistance
undoubtedly increase the amount of food assistance programs, Gerbouin-R!erolle and Chabeau (1997) also
given to individual households, but the potential for concluded that clients’ reports of unmet need were
marked increases in donations is limited. Already food linked to the programs’ severe material constraints and
banks are reporting problems of ‘donor fatigue’ among the growing demands for assistance. The similarities
the public (Riches, 1997b), who are being asked to between the results of our research and studies elsewhere
support an increasing number of charitable causes as suggest that the dissociation of food assistance from
more and more service activities are relegated to the client need may be an inherent feature of assistance
voluntary sector in Canada. The amount of usable programs reliant on corporate and public donations. As
‘surplus’ food is also limited. As food producers and such, our research contributes to current debates about
retailers increase the efficiency of their operations as a the expansion of surplus food redistribution schemes as
means to maintain their competitiveness in the market- a public policy response to income-related food pro-
place, there is likely to be less food that cannot be blems nationally and internationally (e.g., Hawkes &
retailed. Webster, 2000).
Perhaps even more problematic than their inability to In conclusion, although ‘surplus’ food redistribution
meet clients’ food needs, however, is the way in which schemes have burgeoned in Canada and elsewhere in
food banks render the unmet need invisible. Others have the wake of welfare reforms, the results of our research
argued that insofar as food banks give the illusion of raise questions about the wisdom of these responses
effectively responding to hunger, they unwittingly as a policy alternative. In this paper we have examined
facilitate the further erosion of income supports to food banks from the perspective of client need and
those at the bottom, leading to increased poverty and the problem of supply. In subsequent papers we will
income inequality and a continued and growing need for report on other of our research findings, particularly
charitable food assistance (Poppendieck, 1998b; Riches, the ways in which food banks work is contingent upon
1997b). As clients’ food needs are obfuscated through the availability and neediness of a large volunteer
the everyday practices of food banks, there is little workforce, marginalized from the paid labour market,
impetus for either community groups or government to and the ways in which the structure of food banks
seek out other solutions. facilitates the disposal of unsaleable products for the
The problem of supply, which we have argued is food industry. These findings will bring into further
fundamental to the dissociation of food assistance from question the appropriateness of surplus food redistribu-
client need, is not unique to the food banks included in tion as a response to food insecurity and highlight
this study. In a recent national survey of food banks, the broad array of factors that contribute to its
most reported having to restrict the amount of entrenchment.
assistance offered and the frequency with which clients
could receive assistance because of insufficient supplies
(Wilson & Steinman, 2000). Further, the limited and Acknowledgements
uncontrollable nature of a food supply based on
charitable donations and the struggle to balance this The authors are indebted to Randi Reynolds for her
supply with a large and growing demand for assistance very skilled research assistance and to Daily Bread Food
have been features of food banks in Canada since their Bank for their help on this project. This research was
inception (Riches 1986; Tarasuk & Maclean, 1990). funded by a grant from the Social Sciences and
Although charitable food assistance programs in the US Humanities Research Council of Canada.
1514 V. Tarasuk, J.M. Eakin / Social Science & Medicine 56 (2003) 1505–1515

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