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CONTENTS HAIR COLOUR FOR HAIRSTYLISTS: LEVEL 2

Chapter 7 – Corrective Colour

7.1 Hair Analysis

As with any service in the salon, a colour correction begins with a thorough consultation and
hair analysis to determine:

Existing level and tone

Target level and tone

Texture, porosity, and elasticity

When performing a consultation for a colour correction, we must also determine:

What is the client’s detailed colour history?

Is the current colour oxidative or non-oxidative?

Is the current colour professional-salon colour or box colour?

Knowing the client’s colour history will allow you to determine how many layers of colour are
present and what is hiding underneath. As you can imagine, one layer of professional dark
colour over previous blonde will be much easier to remove than multiple layers of dark box
colour.

Speaking of box colour, stylists have many opinions on the disadvantages, but is it
actually so “bad”?

When you look on the side of a box of permanent drug store colour, you will see
that it shows the results at multiple levels. This indicates that it is formulated to lift
and deposit on various levels, making it a one-size-fits-all solution. For a product
to have this range of results means it is higher in alkalinity than a professional
colour line. Those who purchase box colour wishing only to go darker likely do not
understand that this high ammonia colour is causing unnecessary damage to their
hair strand.

Many box colours also contain progressive dyes. This means with every layer, the
colour will become increasingly darker and harder to remove, resulting in a reverse
ombré effect, where the roots may be a medium brown, but the ends have taken on
a dull, almost black appearance.

Box colours also typically contain additives, such as metallic salts and sometimes
even henna, that bond to the keratin in the cortex and are likely to chemically react
with professional hair colour products and/or wreak havoc on the hair.

The hair analysis and consultation will also help to determine whether we will be performing a
tint-back, or a decolourization service. When we talk about corrective colour services, we must
consider both sides of the spectrum. Is the hair too light or too dark? In the next section we will
cover both extremes, beginning with what to do if the hair is too light and/or an undesirable
tone.

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Hair Colour for Hairstylists: Level 2 by Arden Magtiza is licensed

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