18/11/2017 Coraline Doll Revised and Improved 2013 ~ Amigurumi To Go

Coraline Doll Revised and Improved 2013

amigurumitogo.com /2013/12/coraline-doll-free-crochet-pattern.html

Finally after 2 years I revised my Coraline pattern and it was long over due! My hope was to make the pattern
easier and less fiddly but with that said this is still a
pattern for a crocheter with some experience. I have a step by step video that follows along with the pattern
however please be aware there are parts that a beginner will find difficult to do.

Copyright 2013 Author: Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go, All rights reserved

Supplies:
Coat and boots - Red Heart Comfort yarn Bright Yellow 3182
Skin Color - Red Heart Comfort yarn Cream 3240
Hair - Use a bright, vibrant blue. It doesn't have to be a particular brand just use a medium #4 worsted weight yarn
Pants and Messenger Bag - Red Heart Comfort or Red Heart Super Saver Any color of your choice
buttons for eyes
sewing needle
yarn needle
optional * 20 gauge wire
4 pipe cleaners
fabric tac or tacky glue
optional * brown felt pen for freckles
your choice of a 3.75mm to a 4.5mm hook (For Wybie's pattern I used a 3.75mm so if you want the dolls to go
together then use the same hook size for both dolls)

Read me ~> How to read the rows: Each row has a sequence as given below. Example: 1sc then 2sc in next st
means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of
that particular row. The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end
of that particular row.

Special notes: I worked in continuous rounds. This pattern will give you a doll about 8 1/2 inches tall depending
on your choice of yarn and hook size.

Abreviations:
st = stitch
sc = single crochet
2tog = 2 stitches together
sl st = slip stitch
f/o = finish off
BLO = back loops only
18/11/2017 Coraline Doll Revised and Improved 2013 ~ Amigurumi To Go

FLO = front loops only

hdc = half double crochet

Video Tutorial here and video is in order as follows:

1. How to make an adjustable loop or magic circle

2. How to make the head, neck and body
3. How to make and add in the neck stabilizer
4. How to stuff and close up the body
5. How to make the boots, legs and arms
6. How to sew on the legs and arms
7. How to make and sew on the coat collar and the hood
8. How to make and sew on the ears
9. How to root the hair
10. How to add in the face (button eyes, nose and mouth)
11. How make and add on the coat pockets (link to written part here)
12. How to make the button key and link to messenger bag

Head:
starting with whatever color you will use for the hair
1) magic circle with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
7) switch to skin color on first st, sl st next st then 1sc in next 34st (36)
8-17) 1sc in each st for 10 rows
18) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (27)
19) 1sc then 2tog (18)
20) 1sc then 2tog (12) *stop and stuff head. Stuff the head as much as you can, making sure to shape as you
stuff. Use a pencil or stuffing stick and make a hole in the stuffing, right in the middle. This hole is for the pipe
cleaners you will put in later.
21) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (9)
now we will be making the neck then onto the coat
22-25) 1sc in each st for 4 rows (9)
26) 2sc in each st (18)
27) switch to coat color on first st, sl st next st then 1sc in next 16st (18)
28) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
29-36) 1sc in each st for 8 rows

*now stop and stabilize the neck. For this I cut a piece of 20 gauge wire about 24 inches long (2 times the length of
a pipe cleaner). I folded it in half then folded it in half again and twisted it as pictured. The 20 gauge wire is
optional but it does make the neck super stabilized yet still poseable. Don't worry if you don't have the wire as the
pipe cleaners will work on their own just fine. Take 4 pipe cleaners and fold them in half and twist them around the
wire. Put in a pencil or stuffing stick inside the head and work it around to re-open that hole you made earlier in
the stuffing! This step just makes it easier to push the stabilizer in. Push the wire into the neck making sure you go
far enough in so that the other end is level with row 36. Take the piece out, taking mental note of the area that sits
inside the neck itself and add a thin layer of fabric glue (tacky glue will work too) just to the part that sits in the
neck. This step will ensure that the stabilizer will not come out of the neck later. Let the glue dry for a minute or two
then continue onto row 37.
18/11/2017 Coraline Doll Revised and Improved 2013 ~ Amigurumi To Go

click on pictures to enlarge them

37) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)

38-39) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
40) FLO 1sc in each st
41) 1sc in each st
sl st next st and f/o. Weave yarn tail in to hide it.

By crocheting in the front loops for row 40 you created a

ridge on the inside as pictured below. This is where you
insert the color you will use for the pants.

1) pull through one of the loops of that ridge then put 1sc
around for 1 row. The end of the ridge will be a bit higher
than the beginning so just join them with a sc
2+) Crochet 2tog until you close the gap, make sure to add
in any stuffing the body needs before closing the gap. f/o
and hide yarn tail in body

Boot and Leg:

starting with yellow we begin with the sole of the boot
1) ch 8
2) starting with the 2nd chain from the hook, 1sc in each st (7) now continue working around on the other side of
the chain, 1sc in the outer loops (arrows pointing to the outer loops on other side of ch). (14)
*make sure to add a marker in the last sc you put in and move that marker at the end of every row

3) 2sc in next 4st, 1sc in next 6st then 2sc in next 4st (22)
4) 1sc in each of the BLO (22)
5) 1sc in each
6) 2tog 3 times, 1sc in next 10st then 2tog 3 times (16)
7) 2tog 2 times, 1sc in next 8st then 2tog 2 times (12)
8) 2tog, 1sc in next 8st then 2tog (10)
9-11) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
18/11/2017 Coraline Doll Revised and Improved 2013 ~ Amigurumi To Go

12) switch colors on first st then sl st next st then 1sc in next 8st (10)
13-17) 1sc in each st for 5 rows
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing.

Top Rim of Boot:

1) ch 13 (chain less if the beginning and the end of the chain overlap when placed around the boot). Sew to the
top edge of the boot. Hide yarn tails inside leg. Pin the legs in place as pictured and make sure you are happy with
the placement and that they are centered.before sewing them in.

Arms:
start with yellow
1) magic circle with 5st (5)
2) 2sc in each st (10)
3-9) 1sc in each st for 7 rows
10) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (8)
11-12) 1sc in each st for 2 rows switch to skin color on last st of row 12
13) sl st first st, 1sc in next 7st (8)
14) 2sc in each st (16)
15) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (12) *very lightly stuff arm. Do not stuff wrist or hand
16) 1sc then 2tog (8)
17) 2tog 3 times and f/o. Weave in and out through the remaining st, pull tight to close the gap, f/o and hide yarn
tail inside arm.

Arm Cuff:
1) ch 9 or 10 and sew it to the arm where the yellow changes to the skin color. Hide yarn tails inside arm
Pin the arms in place so that the top of the arms are level with the coat color then sew them in.

Front Strip on Coat:

1) ch about 17 f/o sew it or glue it down the front and middle of the coat, the bottom of the chain will wrap under
the coat. Hide yarn tails in body

Collar: With coat color

*sew this part on after the arms have been sewn on
1) ch 19
2) starting with the 2nd ch from the hook, 1sc in each (18)
3) ch 2 and turn, starting with the 3rd st from the hook, 1hdc
then 2hdc in next st (27) f/o leaving a long tail for sewing.
Pin into place as pictured then sew around the bottom edge
of the collar.
18/11/2017 Coraline Doll Revised and Improved 2013 ~ Amigurumi To Go

Hood:
1) magic circle with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
7) 1sc in each st
8) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (27)
9) 1sc in each
f/o leaving a tail for sewing. Fold flat to shape as pictured. Sew in place. The hood is only for looks and is not big
enough to fit over the head

Ears:
*ears aren't completely necessary and you can leave these
out of the pattern. I chose remove the ears from my
Coraline doll. I left the ear part in the pattern for you so at
least you have a choice.
1) magic circle with 5st (5)
2) ch1 and turn, 2sc in each st (10)
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Pin in place with the top of
the ears just under the 4th row down from the color change
on head

Hair:
wrap yarn loosely in loops. Once you have a good bundle
cut through the loops (one end only) so that you have
strands of yarn as pictured. You will make 2 or 3 of these
bundles before you are all done. You will root each strand
into blue patch on top of the head. I started on the 7th row
as shown in the 2nd picture below. Pull a strand through a
stitch on top of the head and then pull the yarn tails through
the loop and pull tight. Go around and around until the blue
patch is covered in less 2 or 3 rows from the center as pictured below so the hair is not so thick on top, you can fill
that part in as well and it's just a matter of preference. I found the hair is easier to style when not so thick on the
very top. The way I styled her hair the bald spot is not seen.
18/11/2017 Coraline Doll Revised and Improved 2013 ~ Amigurumi To Go

Face:
tie the hair back so that you can work on the face. I show
how to do the face step by step in the video. It is hard to
explain in written form but I will do my best.

Eyes:
If you didn't use safety eyes you can sew in black buttons.
You could also glue the buttons in place!

Nose & Mouth:

with same color you used for the skin, (I use yellow here
because it shows better in the pictures).
1) Pull the yarn through a stitch on the face and ch3 then
f/o leaving a long enough tail to make a mouth.
2) Using a yarn needle bring the end you f/o through a
stitch just above where you originally pulled the yarn
through
3) and out where you want one corner of the mouth to be
4) now bring it over a few stitches as pictured so you have a
strand running across
5) and then back out the corner you went in (one stitch
over) and back over so that you have 2 strands running
across that make the top and bottom lip
6) bring the yarn tail out through the side of the face and leave it hanging there. Now bring the other yarn tail out
through same stitch the first yarn tail is coming out of. Knot them together and hide the knot inside the face and
cut the excess yarn tails off.

You can use regular blush to add in some color on the cheeks, lips and nose. Use a q-tip and gradually build up
the color until you are happy with the look. Use a brown felt pen with a fine tip to dot in freckles. Make sure you
know exactly where you want the freckles because once you dot them in there is no going back!

The pattern for the Messenger Bag is right here

18/11/2017 Coraline Doll Revised and Improved 2013 ~ Amigurumi To Go

And that's it, whew!! That was a lot of details but now you
have your own Coraline doll and I hope you had fun making
her! Please post pictures on my facebook page Amigurumi
Freely, if you do make a doll.

Happy Crocheting and all the best to you in 2014!!

Donations of any size are greatly appreciated and help

keep the patterns free. If you do give a donation, please
accept this note as my sincere thanks and know that you
have helped a great deal.
Many Blessings to you!

Copyright Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go All rights

reserved

You may sell finished products. Do not reprint this pattern

on any site, magazine or book. If you'd like to share this
pattern please provide a link back to it.