COMPETENCY-BASED

LEARNING MATERIAL

DRESSMAKING NC II
UNIT OF DRAFT AND CUT BODICE
COMPETENCY: PATTERN
MODULE 1 DRAFTING AND CUTTING
BODICE PATTERN

HOW TO USE THIS COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING MATERIAL

 WELCOME!
This unit of competency, “Draft and Cut Bodice Pattern”, is one of the competencies of
DRESSMAKING NC II, a course that a person must achieve to enable him/her to draft and cut pattern; lay-
out pattern on the material/fabric, sew material/fabric and apply finishing touches on the upper garment.
This module, “Draft and Cut Bodice Pattern”, contains training materials and activities
related to drafting and cutting front and back bodice pattern of blouses. It details the requirement for
planning a blouse design, taking body measurements, drafting basic pattern, manipulating and cutting final
pattern.
In this module, you are required to go through a series of learning activities in order to
complete each learning outcome. In each learning outcome are Information sheets, Self-checks, Task/Job
Sheets. Follow and perform the activities on your own. If you have questions, do not hesitate to ask for
assistance from your facilitator.
Remember to:

 Work through all the information and complete the activities in each section
 Read information sheets and complete the self-check. Suggested references are included to
supplement the materials provided in this module.
 Most probably, your trainer will also be your supervisor or manager. He is there to support you and
show you the correct way of doing things.
 You will be given plenty of opportunities to ask questions and practice on the job. Make sure you
practice new skills during regular work shifts. This way, you will improve your speed, memory and
your confidence.
 Use self-check, task/job check at the end of each section to test your own progress. Use the
performance criteria checklist after the sheet to check your own performance
 When you feel confident that you have had sufficient practice, ask your Trainer to evaluate you. The
results of your assessment will be recorded in your Progress Chart and Accomplishment Chart.
You need to complete this module before you can perform the next module.
 MODULE CONTENT

Qualification title: Dressmaking NC II

Unit of Competency: Draft and Cut Bodice Pattern

Module title: Drafting and Cutting Bodice Pattern

Introduction

This module covers the knowledge, skills and attitude in drafting and cutting bodice pattern. It
details the requirement for planning blouse design, taking body measurements, drafting basic pattern,
manipulating and cutting final pattern.

Learning outcomes:

Upon the completion of this module, you will be able to;

1. Plan blouse design

2. Take body measurements
3. Draft basic pattern
4. Manipulate pattern
5. Cut final pattern

Assessment Criteria:

1. Appropriate training facilities/resources are prepared based on the session requirements.

2. Learning station are prepared & set-up according to learning activities.
3. Tools and equipment are prepared & set-up according to learning activities.
4. Pre-assessment instruments are prepared in accordance with the number of learners.
5. Contents and procedure of pre-training assessment are explained according to guidelines.
6. Evidence is gathered using the tool specified in the evidence plan
7. Evidences are evaluated and feedbacks are discussed based on the results of pre-training
assessment.
 LEARNING OUTCOME SUMMARY

Learning Outcome #1 PLAN BLOUSE DESIGN

CONTENTS;
1. Introduction to the types of blouses
2. Classification and types of fabrics appropriate for the making of blouse garment
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA;
1. Appropriate training facilities/resources are prepared based on the session requirements.
2. Learning station are prepared & set-up according to learning activities.
3. Tools and equipment are prepared & set-up according to learning activities

CONDITION
Trainees/Students must be provided with the following
1. Workplace location
2. Tools, accessories and supplies (PPT w/ pictures ,LCD, white board, video tutorial)
3. Training materials
Competency-based learning Materials
Competency standards
Training regulations

Assessment Method:
Questioning
Written test
Learning Outcome #2 TAKE BODY MEASUREMENTS
CONTENTS;
1. English and metric system of measurement
2. Locate body points
3. Taking body parts measurement
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA;
1. Appropriate training facilities/resources are prepared based on the session requirements.
2. Learning station are prepared & set-up according to learning activities.
3. Tools and equipment are prepared & set-up according to learning activities.
4. Pre-assessment instruments are prepared in accordance with the number of learners.
5. Contents and procedure of pre-training assessment are explained according to guidelines.
6. Evidence is gathered using the tool specified in the evidence plan
7. Evidences are evaluated and feedbacks are discussed based on the results of pre-training assessment.

CONDITION
Trainees/Students must be provided with the following
1. Workplace location
2. Tools, accessories and supplies P
(PTP w/ pictures ,LCD, white board, tape measure, pencil & paper)
3. Training materials
Competency-based learning Materials
Competency standards
Training regulations

Assessment Method:
 Written test
Performance Task

Learning Outcome #3 DRAFT BASIC PATTERN

CONTENTS;
1. Tools and materials in drafting basic pattern
2. Procedure in drafting basic pattern
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA;
1. Appropriate training facilities/resources are prepared based on the session requirements.
2. Learning station are prepared & set-up according to learning activities.
3. Tools and equipment are prepared & set-up according to learning activities.
4. Pre-assessment instruments are prepared in accordance with the number of learners.
5. Contents and procedure of pre-training assessment are explained according to guidelines.
6. Evidence is gathered using the tool specified in the evidence plan
7. Evidences are evaluated and feedbacks are discussed based on the results of pre-training
assessment.
CONDITION
Trainees/Students must be provided with the following
1. Workplace location
2. Tools, accessories and supplies P
(PTP w/ pictures ,LCD, white board, tape measure, pencil & paper, manila paper, video tutorial)
3. Training materials
Competency-based learning Materials
Competency standards
Training regulations

Assessment Method:
Questioning
Written test
Performance Task

Learning Outcome #4 MANIPULATE PATTERN

CONTENTS;
1. Dart manipulation & procedure in pattern making
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA;
1. Appropriate training facilities/resources are prepared based on the session requirements.
2. Learning station are prepared & set-up according to learning activities.
3. Tools and equipment are prepared & set-up according to learning activities.
4. Pre-assessment instruments are prepared in accordance with the number of learners.
5. Contents and procedure of pre-training assessment are explained according to guidelines.
6. Evidence is gathered using the tool specified in the evidence plan
7. Evidences are evaluated and feedbacks are discussed based on the results of pre-training assessment.
CONDITION
Trainees/Students must be provided with the following
1. Workplace location
2. Tools, accessories and supplies P
(PTP w/ pictures ,LCD, white board, tape measure, pencil & paper)
3. Training materials
 Competency-based learning Materials
Competency standards
Training regulations

Assessment Method:
Questioning
Written test
Performance Task

Learning Outcome #5 CUT FINAL PATTERN

CONTENTS;
1. Procedures in pattern cutting
2. Cutting final pattern
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA;
1. Appropriate training facilities/resources are prepared based on the session requirements.
2. Learning station are prepared & set-up according to learning activities.
3. Tools and equipment are prepared & set-up according to learning activities.
4. Pre-assessment instruments are prepared in accordance with the number of learners.
5. Contents and procedure of pre-training assessment are explained according to guidelines.

CONDITION
Trainees/Students must be provided with the following
4. Workplace location
5. Tools, accessories and supplies P
(PTP w/ pictures ,LCD, white board, tape measure, pencil & paper)
6. Training materials
Competency-based learning Materials
Competency standards
Training regulations

Assessment Method:
Questioning
Performance Task
Output Evaluation
Learning Outcome 1
Plan blouse design

Learning Activities Special Instruction

Read information 1.1.1 Read and understand the information sheet. Listen to

(Introduction to the types of blouse) the trainer during the discussions (trainer is required

to make a power point presentation for better

understanding of the trainees). Check yourself by

answering the Self-check. You must answer all the

questions correctly before proceeding to the next

activity.

Answer Self-Check 1.1.1 Submit your answer sheet to your trainer

Read information 1.1.2 Read and understand the information sheet. Listen to

(Classification and types of fabric ) the trainer during the discussions (trainer is required

to make a power point presentation and other

electronic audiovisuals for better understanding of

the trainees). Check yourself by answering the Self-

check. You must answer all the questions correctly

before proceeding to the next activity.

Answer Self check 1.1.1 Submit your answer sheet to your trainer

After doing all activities of this LO, you are ready to

proceed to the next LO on Take Body Measurements

 Information Sheet 1.1.1
Introduction to the Types of Blouse
Learning objectives;
After the session the trainees will be able to;
1. Identify the types of blouses
2. Classify the types of fabric appropriate for the making of blouses
3. Appreciate the importance of blouse garment
Blouse is a woman’s lose outer garment from the neck down to the waist. It usually fits at the
waistline or is time tucked into the blouse.
In preparing materials for cutting fabrics, determine first the yardage you need. This will
depend on the style you have chosen, the width of material and size of the pattern. Garment
construction involves more than sewing parts of clothing together. Before assembling the parts for
garment design, first take the body measurements, then draft pattern, prepare materials, layout the
pattern and cut the fabric.
Garment construction involves sewing different parts of clothing together. Before assembling
any kind of garment, it is necessary to follow the different steps or procedures in sewing. This
focuses on the production of ladies blouses which will help them develop them sewing skills. Being
equipped with this knowledge may help the learner accurately perform the steps such as planning
garment design, taking body measurements, drafting pattern and cutting pattern as well.
This lesson provides the learner with the necessary steps to produce blouses. There are
various types of blouses that are fashion nowadays and are suited to different personalities. The
drafting of patterns of different parts of blouse presented for you to have your option in selecting
which type or style of blouse you want to have.
Types of Blouse
The blouse is a wardrobe staple that every woman should have in her collection. Versatile, stylish,
and available in a multitude of fabrics and designs, blouses can effortlessly elevate any outfit. With so many
styles to choose from, it can be challenging to navigate the world of blouses. This guide will introduce you
to the different types of blouses and help you find the perfect fit for your body shape and personal style.
1. Button-Up Blouse:
The classic button-up blouse features a full-length button-up
front, typically with a collar and long or short sleeves. This timeless
style is suitable for both casual and formal occasions. Pair it with a
pencil skirt or slacks for a polished office look, or wear it with jeans
for a casual weekend outfit.
2. Peasant Blouse:
The peasant blouse is characterized by its loose, flowing fit
and wide neckline. Often featuring embroidery, lace, or smocking
details, this style exudes a bohemian vibe. Pair it with denim shorts or
a maxi skirt for a breezy, carefree look.

3. Off-the-Shoulder Blouse:
Show off your shoulders with an off-the-shoulder blouse. The
wide neckline exposes one or both shoulders and is often held in place
with elastic or a ruffle. This flirty style is perfect for summer outings and can be dressed up or down with
accessories.

4. Wrap Blouse:
A wrap blouse wraps around the body and ties at the waist or
side, creating a flattering V-neckline. This versatile style suits various
body shapes and can be paired with skirts or pants for a sophisticated
look.

5. Tunic Blouse:
The tunic blouse is a longer style that falls at or below the hips, often
featuring side slits for ease of movement. This style is perfect for layering
over leggings or skinny jeans and can be worn casually or dressed up with
statement jewelry.
6. Ruffle Blouse:
Add a touch of femininity to your wardrobe with a ruffle blouse.
Featuring ruffle details on the collar, sleeves, or body, this style pairs well
with both skirts and pants for a chic, romantic look.

7. Sheer Blouse:
The sheer blouse is made from transparent or semi-transparent
fabric, often layered over a camisole for added coverage. This style is
perfect for a night out or a special event when paired with a sleek skirt or
tailored pants.

8. Sleeveless Blouse:
The sleeveless blouse is a versatile option for warm weather or
layering under blazers and jackets. Featuring a high or low neckline, this
style can be dressed up with statement jewelry or worn casually with
denim.

9. Bow Blouse:
The bow blouse features a bow detail, often at the neckline, adding a
feminine and elegant touch. This style is perfect for both work and play, as
it can be dressed up with tailored pants or a skirt, or worn casually with
jeans.
 10. Embellished Blouse:
Make a statement with an embellished blouse, featuring decorative elements such as beads, sequins,
or embroidery. This eye-catching style is perfect for special occasions and can be paired with simple
bottoms to let the blouse shine.
11. Halter Blouse:
The halter blouse is a sleeveless style with a high neckline
that ties or fastens at the back of the neck. This style is perfect for
showing off your shoulders and pairs well with high-waisted bottoms
for a chic look.

12. High-Neck Blouse:

A high-neck blouse features a high, close-fitting neckline,
often with long or short sleeves. This sophisticated style is perfect
for the office or a night out and can be paired with skirts or pants.

13. One-Shoulder Blouse:

The one-shoulder blouse has an asymmetrical neckline,
exposing one shoulder while covering the other. This unique and
stylish option is perfect for a night out or special occasions, and
can be paired with tailored pants or a sleek skirt.

14. Cold-Shoulder Blouse:

The cold-shoulder blouse features cutouts at the shoulders,
allowing them to be exposed while the rest of the arm is covered.
This playful style is perfect for casual outings and can be dressed
up with statement accessories.

15. Lace Blouse:

A lace blouse is made from or features lace fabric, adding a
delicate and feminine touch. This romantic style is perfect for date
night or special events and can be paired with skirts or pants for a chic
look.

16. Denim Blouse:

 The denim blouse is made from denim fabric, often featuring a button-up front and a casual style.
This wardrobe staple can be dressed up or down, making it perfect for any occasion.

17. Puff-Sleeve Blouse:

The puff-sleeve blouse features sleeves that are gathered at
the shoulder and expand before tapering at the cuff, creating a
voluminous and dramatic effect. This style adds a touch of vintage
charm to your wardrobe and pairs well with high-waisted pants or
skirts for a chic look.

18. Oversized Blouse:

The oversized blouse is characterized by a loose, relaxed fit,
often featuring dropped shoulders and a casual style. This comfortable
option is perfect for laid-back days or for layering over fitted bottoms to
create a stylish contrast.

19. Collared Blouse:

A collared blouse features a collar, often paired with a button-up
front or a feminine neckline. This classic style is perfect for office wear
or dressing up for special occasions and can be paired with tailored pants
or skirts.

20. Boatneck Blouse:

The boatneck blouse features a wide, horizontal neckline that
extends from shoulder to shoulder, creating an elegant and sophisticated
look. This style is perfect for showcasing statement necklaces or earrings
and pairs well with a variety of bottoms.

21. Peplum Blouse:

The peplum blouse features a short, flared piece of fabric at the
waist, creating a flattering silhouette. This style is perfect for
accentuating your curves and can be paired with tailored pants or skirts
for a polished look.

22. Fringe Blouse:

 The fringe blouse features fringe details, often on the sleeves or hem, adding a playful touch. This
fun and unique style is perfect for special occasions or nights out and can be paired with simple bottoms to
let the blouse take center stage.

23. Corset Blouse:

The corset blouse features a structured, fitted bodice inspired by
traditional corsets, often with lacing details. This sultry and sophisticated
style is perfect for a night out or special events and can be paired with
skirts or pants for a chic look.

24. Asymmetrical Blouse:

The asymmetrical blouse features an uneven or irregular hemline or
neckline, creating a unique and stylish look. This fashion-forward style is
perfect for standing out from the crowd and can be paired with skirts or pants
for a chic outfit.

25. Mock Neck Blouse:

The mock neck blouse features a high, close-fitting neckline that does
not fold over, often with long or short sleeves. This sleek and sophisticated style
is perfect for both casual and formal occasions and can be paired with a variety
of bottoms.

Self-check
Identify & Describe Me!
Direction: Guess the picture, identify the name and describe its unique features
 1. 2.

3. 4.
5. 6.

7. 8.

9. 10.
11. 12.

13. 14.

15.

Self-Check Answer Key 1.1.1

1. Peplum Blouse
2. Mock-Neck Blouse
3. Puff-Sleeve Blouse
4. Corset Blouse
5. Embellished Blouse
6. Button-up Blouse
7. Wrap Blouse
8. Asymmetrical Blouse
9. Off Shoulder Blouse
10. Sheer Blouse
11. One-Shoulder Blouse
12. Halter Blouse
13. Denim Blouse
14. Lace Blouse
15. Ruffle Blouse

Information Sheet 1.1.2

Classification and Types of Fabrics
Learning objectives;
After the session the trainees will be able to;
1. Define and determine the differences of textile, fiber and fabric
2. Identify and classify fabrics
3. Appreciate the importance of fabrics
The term 'textile' is derived from the Latin word “textilis”, in turn from the verb textere, which
means 'to weave'. Today, the term refers to and includes all fabrics, made of all kinds of yarns and fibres,
and not just the woven kind. 'Cloth' is a general term used for a fabric or textile.

A fibre is the basic unit from which any fabric is made. Fibres may be classified as staple or
filament. Staple fibres are short-length fibres. Filament fibres are long and often continuous for a length of
yarn. The physical and chemical properties of the fibres contribute to the nature of the fabric woven from it.
Yarns are threads or thread-like structures made by twisting together several staple fibres or filament fibres.
It is yarn which is used for weaving or knitting textiles. The process of making a yarn from fibre is called
spinning,

A fabric is typically made by the interlacing of yarns or fibres. The most common process of such
interlacing is weaving. Different types of weaves are used to make fabrics with varying characteristics.
(After weaving, knitting is the most usual method of fabric construction.) Weaves influence the texture,
durability, elasticity, absorbency, lustre, and appearance of fabrics. The yarns running lengthwise through a
fabric are called warp yarns or 'ends' and the crosswise yarns in a fabric are called weft yarns, filling yarns,
or 'picks'. The term thread count is used to indicate the number of warp ends and weft picks per unit of
measure of a fabric. The longitudinal, visibly distinct edge of a fabric, closed by loops of weft yarn, is called
the selvedge. The selvedge is usually denser and hence stronger than the rest of the fabric. It prevents the
fabric from unravelling. A fabric may be made from more than one type of fibre. Different fibres can be
blended together to form a single yarn, or different types of yarn can be mixed in the fabric. Each type of
fibre has its own advantages and limitations.

Textile scientists have worked out two ways to overcome the most common limitations of fabrics:
blending of fibres and application of finishes on fabrics. Blended fabrics are made of yarn in which two or
more fibres are mixed while the yarn is spun. Another class of blends is union fabric. In union fabrics, each
yarn is of a single type of fibre. For example, the warp yarns may be made of cotton and the weft yarns
made of wool. In other words, in most blends, fibres are mixed before spinning, while in union fabrics,
fibres are mixed during weaving or plying of yarns. A finish is a treatment imparted to a fabric to improve
its qualities (such as appearance, hand, and drape) or introduce certain characteristics, such as water
repellence, fire retardant qualities, and so on.

CLASSIFICATION AND IDENTIFICATION OF TEXTILE FIBERS

 From ancient times to just a century ago, all the fibre used in making fabrics was obtained from
natural sources, mostly plants. Nowadays, many manmade fibres have been created. Fibres are classified
according to their source, and length.
A. Source-based Classification
Based on source, fibres may be classified into two categories-natural and manmade
Natural fibres- those obtained from nature-are classified as vegetable, animal, and mineral fibres.
Vegetable fibres found in the cell walls of plants are cellulosic; whereas animal fibres derived from both
insects and mammals are proteins. The mineral fibre asbestos is mined from certain types of rocks.
Manmade fibres -These are manufactured in various ways. Manmade fibres can be synthetic,
regenerated, metallic, and mineral fibres. Synthetic fibres: These are manufactured from petrochemicals.
Here, the raw material is completely different from the end product. For example, polyester is made from the
raw materials ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid.
Regenerated fibres: Unlike synthetic fibres, these are made from substances retrieved from natural
sources, which are then converted into fibre form. For example, wood pulp (chemically a cellulose) is
converted into cellulose fibres such as viscose rayon. Man has also processed proteins from corn and
soyabean to make a fibre (azlon). Milk has been processed chemically and converted into protein fibres
(caslen). These products, however, were not commercially successful.
Metallic fibres: These are produced from metals such as gold, silver, and aluminium, obtained by
mining and refining.
Mineral fibres: These manmade fibres are made from substances such as glass or graphite.

B. Length-based Classification
Based on their length, fibres are classified as staple or filament. Staple fibres are shorter in length
and measured in either inches or centimetres. They range from 1.5-46 cm in length. All natural fibres except
silk are staple fibres. Filament fibres are long and continuous. They are measured in yards or metres. Silk is
the only natural fibre that occurs in filament form. All other filament fibres are manmade. Manmade fibres
are produced in filament form, but many are cut into staple form and spun into yarn to vary the texture and
appearance. Whether natural or manmade, all fibres average less than 0.05 cm in diameter.
FABRIC CONSTRUCTION
1. Weaving
-this is the most widely used method of fabric construction. Weaving is carried out on a loom
where two or more sets of yarns are interlaced at right angles. The lengthwise yarns are called 'warp'
and the crosswise yarns are known as 'weft'.
The process of weaving -this consists of the following steps.
 Shedding- This is the raising of one or more harnesses to separate the warp yarns and
form a shed.
 Picking- This is the passing of the shuttle through the shed to insert the filling or weft
yarns.
 Beating up/Battening- this is the process of pushing the weft yarns into place in the
cloth with the reed.
 Taking up and letting off- this is the winding of finished cloth onto the cloth beam and
releasing of excess warp from the warp beam. Woven fabrics from the loom have a distinct
selvedge, running lengthwise along. the margins of the fabric. Woven fabrics vary in their
interlace (pattern) and balance (ratio of warp yarns to weft yarns). The various weaves are
discussed below.
 Weaves A weave' can be defined as the system of interlacing warp and weft threads in
order to produce a textile fabric. The appearance and characteristics of fabrics depend not
only on the types of fibre and yarn used, but also on the type of weave.
2. Knitting
In this method of fabric construction, one or more yarns are formed into a series of interlocking loops
with the help of needles. Most often, one thread is used to form a series or row of loops, which in turn is
held by another row, and in this way a stocking stitch or another pattern of stitches is formed, the pattern
depending on the shapes of the loops, the way the thread is carried from loop to loop, and the way the loops
interlock. This results in stretchy fabrics that are porous and resilient. These fabrics pull out of shape easily
if washed incorrectly and may also ladder.
3. Netting
-Openwork fabrics such as lace are manufactured by this method. The yarns are interlaced,
interlooped, twisted, and knotted to form openwork fabrics, usually forming a pattern.
4. Felting
-this method, fibres are directly converted into fabric without being spun into yarn. Originally, only
wool fibres were used for felting since they have at natural tendency to mat due to the presence of scales
along the hairs. To felt them, wool fibres are carded, combed, and laid down in a thick layer, they are then
sprayed with water and run through hot agitating plates under pressure, which causes the fibres to become
entangled and matted together into a sheet. Nowadays, felt is also made from fibres that do not mat easily. In
this process, a series of barbed needles is punched repeatedly into a web of fibres, which entangles and mats
them. This is called needle felting Felted fabrics do not unravel easily, but will pull apart and flatten easily.
5. Braiding
Narrow, stretchy fabrics are formed by this method of fabric construction, in which yarns are
interlaced diagonally and lengthwise.
6. Bonding
Bonded fabrics are produced from manmade and natural fibres by mechanical, chemical, thermal, or
solvent processes, or combinations of these. For instance, when a web of fibres is bonded together using
adhesives, the process is called adhesive bonding. Thermoplastic fibres with a low melting point are bonded
by means of heat in a process known as thermoplastic bonding. In laminated bonding, two types of fabrics
are bonded by adhesives. Bonded fabrics are cheaper than woven or knitted fabrics and are widely used for
disposable products.
7. Tufting
Tufted fabrics are produced by inserting threads into the surface of the fabrics. These threads may be cut
or left intact.
COMMON USED FABRIC FOR BLOUSE
1. Silk: Silk is a luxurious fabric widely used for blouses due to its smooth texture and rich sheen. It
exudes elegance and is available in various types, including:
 Banarasi Silk: Known for its intricate brocade patterns and gold or silver zari work,
Banarasi silk blouses are popular for weddings and festive occasions.
 Tussar Silk: With its natural golden hue and coarse texture, Tussar silk blouses have a unique
charm, making them ideal for both traditional and contemporary ensembles.
 Raw Silk: Raw silk blouses have a slightly rough texture and a natural sheen. They offer
versatility and can be adorned with embellishments or embroidery for a stunning look.
2. Cotton: Cotton is a versatile and breathable fabric, perfect for everyday wear and hot climates.
Different types of cotton fabrics used for blouses include:
 Handloom Cotton: Handloom cotton blouses showcase traditional weaving techniques and
come in a variety of vibrant colors and prints. They are comfortable and suitable for casual
occasions.
 Khadi: Known for its texture and durability, khadi blouses are made from hand-spun and
handwoven cotton yarns. They have a rustic appeal and are often preferred for a minimalist or
eco-friendly fashion statement.
3. Chiffon: Chiffon is a lightweight and sheer fabric that adds a touch of elegance and femininity to
blouses. It drapes beautifully and is commonly used for formal or evening wear. Popular chiffon
variations include:
 Georgette Chiffon: Georgette chiffon blouses have a slightly heavier texture and are often
embellished with embroidery or sequins. They are a popular choice for weddings and special
occasions.
 Crepe Chiffon: Crepe chiffon blouses have a crinkled texture and offer a soft, delicate
appearance. They are lightweight and comfortable, making them suitable for both casual and
formal settings.
4. Velvet: Velvet is a plush fabric with a luxurious feel and a distinctive pile. It adds a regal touch to
blouses, making them suitable for grand events and celebrations. Some velvet types used for blouses
include:
 Silk Velvet: Silk velvet blouses have a rich and smooth texture with a subtle sheen. They are
often embellished with intricate embroidery or beadwork for a lavish look.
 Devoré Velvet: Devoré velvet, also known as burnout velvet, features a patterned design
created by selectively removing the velvet pile. It adds a touch of glamour and sophistication
to blouses.

Self-Check 1.1.2
1. The process of converting fibers directly into fabric is ________.
a. Weaving c. Spinning
b. Knitting d. felting
2. ________ is the art of creating designs for knitted woven and non-woven fabrics.
a. Illustration c. Painting
 b. Textile Design d. Sketches
3. _______ is the basic unit of textile
a. Fabric c. Yarn
b. Fiber d. Cloth
4. Which fabric is luxurious fabric widely used for blouses due to its smooth texture and rich sheen.
a. Cotton c. Chiffon
b. Silk d. Linen
5. The lengthwise yarn in a woven fabric is known as;
a. Selvedge c. Warp
b. Grain d. Weft
6. It is a lightweight and sheer fabrics that adds a touch of elegance and feminity to blouses
a. Silk c. velvet
b. Cotton d. chiffon
7. It is a method of fabric construction where one or more yarns are formed into a series of interlocking
loops with the help of needles
a. Netting c. Knitting
b. Braiding d. Bonding
8. One- short fibers that measured in inches or centimeters
a. Filament c. Staple
b. Coarse d. Bonded
9. This fibers are obtained from vegetable, animals and mineral fibers
a. Man-made fibers c. metallic fibers
b. Natural fibers d. mineral fibers
10. It is typically made by the interlacing of yarns or fibers
a. Fabric c. Textile
b. Garment d. Fibers

Answer Key 1.1.2

1. D
2. B
3. C
4. B
 5. C
6. D
7. C
8. B
9. B
10. A

Learning Outcome 2
Take Body Measurement

Learning Activities Special Instruction

Read information sheet 1.2.1 Read and understand the information sheet. Listen to
the trainer during the discussion (trainer is required
to make a power point presentation for better
(English and Metric System of Measurement)
Answer Self-Check 1.2.1
Read information sheet 1.2.2
(Locate Body Points)
Answer Self-Check 1.2.2
Read information sheet 1.2.3
(Taking Body Part Measurement)
Performance Task Sheet 1.2.3
Information sheet 1.2.1
English and Metric System of Measurement
Learning Objectives:
At the end of the session trainees will be able to;
1. Identify the two systems of measurements;
understanding of the trainees). Check yourself by
answering the Self-check. You must answer all the
questions correctly before proceeding to the next
activity.
Submit your answer sheet to your trainer
Read and understand the information sheet. Listen to
the trainer during the discussion and demonstration
(trainer is required to make a power point
presentation and other electronic audiovisuals for
better understanding of the trainees). Check yourself
by answering the Self-check. You must answer all
the questions correctly before proceeding to the next
activity.
Submit your answer sheet to your trainer
Read and understand the information sheet. Listen to
the trainer during the discussion and demonstration
(trainer is required to make a power point
presentation and other electronic audiovisuals for
better understanding of the trainees). Check yourself
by answering the Self-check. You must answer all
the questions correctly before proceeding to the next
activity.
Task sheet will help you practice your skills in
taking body part measurements.
You may apply the techniques used by the trainers
during their demonstration of procedure.
The Performance Criteria checklist will guide and
help you evaluate your work as you are practicing
your skill.
Evaluate your own work using the Performance Task
Criteria. When you are ready, present your work to
your trainer for final evaluation and recording.
If you have questions about the task please ask your
trainer.
After doing all activities of this LO, you are ready to
proceed to the next LO on Take Body Measurements
 2. Read measurements in inches and centimeters found in different measuring tools
3. Convert inches to centimeter and vice versa

Introduction

Applying the system of measurements in dressmaking helps you in getting the correct body
measurements. You need to study how to read the measuring tool using inches or centimeters for you to
know and become familiar in taking the measurements.

Two Systems of Measurement

1. Metric System- is a decimal system of measures based on a unit of length known as meter from the
Greek word ‘metron” means “measure”. The unit of measurement more commonly used is
centimeter.

Metric system has 10 equal parts. These are the following

1. The first line is 1 millimeter

2. The second line is 2 millimeters
3. The third line is 3 millimeters
4. The fourth line is 4 millimeters
5. The fifth line 5 millimeters or ½ centimeter
6. The sixth line is 6 millimeters
7. The seventh line is 7 millimeters
8. The eight line is 8 millimeters
9. The ninth line is 9 millimeters
10. The tenth line is 10 millimeter or 1 centimeter
11.
2. English system- is the basic unit of the English System, is Inches. However, it is not frequently used
in dressmaking. It is utilized by some of the designers

An inch has eight equal parts. These are categorized as;;

1. The first line is 1/8

2. The second line is ¼
3. The third line is 3/8
4. The fourth line is 4/8 or ½ of an inch
5. The fifth line is 5/8
 6. The sixth line is ¾
7. The seventh line is 7/8
8. The eight line is 1 inch

Metric Conversion Chart

Mathematical application is used in order to have an accurate division of the measurements of the
body parts and at the same time, in measuring length and width of the materials. In this process, the four
fundamentals of operation such as multiplication, division, addition and subtraction are involved.

¼ inch 0.25 centimeter

½ inch 1.27 centimeters
5/8 inch 1.59 centimeters
¾ inch 1.905 centimeters
1 inch 2.54 centimeters
1.5 inches 3.81 centimeters
2 inches 5.08 centimeters
3 inches 7.62 centimeters
3.5 inches 8.89 centimeters
4 inches 10.16 centimeters
4.5 inches 11.43 centimeters
5 inches 12.7 centimeters
5.5 inches 13.97 centimeters
6 inches 15.24 centimeters
7 inches 17.78 centimeters
7.5 inches 19.05 centimeters
8 inches 20.32 centimeters
8.5 inches 21.59 centimeters
9 inches 22.86 centimeters
9.5 inches 24. 13 centimeters
10 inches 25.4 centimeters
10.5 inches 26.67 centimeters
11 inches 27.94 centimeters
12 inches 30.48 centimeters
1 yard 0.9144 meter
2 yards 1.8288 meters
3 yards 2.7432 meters
4 yards 3.6572 meters
5 yards 4.572 meters

Self-Check 1.2.1

Multiple Choices

Direction: Write the letter of the correct answer

1. What does the Greek word metron in the metric system mean?
a. Measure b. median c. minus d. mode
 2. Which unit commonly used in metric system?
3. When using the metric system, what is the measurement from the edge of the measuring device until
the 8th lines?
a. 8 millimeters b. 9 millimeters c. 5 millimeters d. 7 millimeters
4. What is the exact measurement of a tape measure starting from the edge until the sixth line using an
English system?
a. 4/8 inch b. ¾ inch c. ¼ inch d. 1/8 inch
5. How will you convert 10 centimeters into inches?
a. 10/2.54 b. 10x 2.54 c. 10-2.54 d. 10+2.54
6. How many centimeters in 25 inches?
a. 73.5cm b. 5.73cm c. 63.5cm d. 83.5cm
7. Which of the following systems of measurement using inches as the unit?
a. Decimal b. English c. Metric d. SI
8. If the dressmaker bought 50 inches fabric that cost Php20.00 per centimeters, how much is the total
cost?
a. Php1,425 b. Php1,245 c. Php2,524 d. Php1,524
9. Which system of measurement uses centimeter as its unit?
a. Decimal B. English c. Metric d. SI
10. How many inches in 100 centimeters?
a. 39.37 b. 29.37 c. 93.37 d. 59.37

Modified True or False

Directions: Write TRUE if the statement is RIGHT, if WRONG, write FALSE and change the underlined
word to make the statement correct.

1. Conversion is a change of operation from centimeters to inches and vice versa

2. Simple calculation is the process in which the four fundamentals of operation maybe involved to
have accurate division of measure distance
3. There are two systems of measurement. English which uses inches as its units and the Metric which
uses diameter.
4. Metric is a decimal system of physical unit of length known as the meter.
5. The Greek word metron means “measure”

Answer key 1.2.1

Multiple Choices:
1. A
2. A
3. A
4. B
5. A
 6. C
7. B
8. D
9. C
10. A

Modified True/False
1. True
2. False-list
3. True
4. False-centimeter
5. True

Information 1.2.2
Locate Body Points
Learning Objectives:
After the session the trainees will be able to;
 1. Identify and locate body measurement
2. Recognize the body garment parts to be measured
Introduction

Knowing the different body points is very important before taking body measurements. For the
reason that in taking body measurements it starts with a body point and ends on a body point or vice versa.
Body - it is the whole structure of man/woman.
Bulges – it is the outward swelling or protruding parts of the body should be given an amount of
ease in taking measurements.
Tip - it is the pointed tapering or rounded end part of the body.
Curves - it is the pronouncing curving outline of a shapely feminine figure.
LOCATING BODY POINTS AND BULGES

Shoulder blades
point
Back part –
opposite the apex
point in front Shoulder tip point

Chest point

Elbow point Bust point

W

1st hip point

2nd hip point Wrist point

Knee point

Ankle point

BODY POINTS

1. Shoulder neck point - it is the meeting point of the neck and shoulder lines
2. Shoulder tip point -it is located at shoulder end.
3. Center base of the neck point – the meeting point of the collar bones in front and the back bone part
at the center base of the neck (nape).
4. Chest point - it is located 4” or 10 cm from the shoulder tip point down where
a. An arm joins the body.
5. Apex point - it is the fullest part of the bust.
6. Waist point - it is located smallest part of the natural waistline.
7. Hip point
a. Upper or 1st hip point - from the fixed waistline point measure 3 inches or 8 cm downward.
b. Lower or 2nd hip point - it is the fullest part of the hip that measure 6-7 inches or 18-20 cm
below the waist point.
8. Elbow point - it is the bone part of the middle of the arm located at the back.
9. Wrist point - it is the part where the arm and hands are joined.
10. Shoulder blades point - it is located at the back of the body, the bone part at the back opposite the
apex point in front.
11. Ankle point - or the talocrural region, or the jumping bone (informal) is the
a. An area where the foot and the leg meet.

Self- Check 1.2.2

1. It is the outward swelling or protruding parts of the body where there is a need to be given an amount
of ease.
a. Bust b. hip c. curves d. bulges
nd
2. 2 hip point is located between_____________.
 a. Waist and thigh b. ankle point and knee point c. 1st hip point and thigh d. knee point and
waist
3. It is the meeting point of the neck and shoulder lines
a. Center base neck point c. Apex point
b. Shoulder neck point d. Neck Point
4. It measures 3 inches downward from the waistline point
a. Hip point b. 2nd hip point c. 1st hip point d. waist point
5. A point that is opposite the apex height
a. Bust point b. Shoulder blades point c. Chest point
6. Why is it important to locate body points?
a. Assist with the accurate placement of pattern
b. Lead tailors to exact body measurements
c. To ensure that a garment fits perfectly
d. All of the above
7. It is the fullest part of the bust
a. Apex point b. Bust point c. Breast point d. waist point
nd
8. Lower/2 hip point measure_____________________ below the waist point
a. 6-7 inches b. 4-5 inches c. 8-9 inches d. 3-4 inches
9. it is located 4 inches from the shoulder tip point down to where the arms join the body
a. Chest point b. Armhole point c. Bust point d. Apex point
10. It is the meeting point of the collarbones in front and back bone part at the center bases of the neck
a. Shoulder tip point c. Shoulder Neck point
b. Center based of the neck point d. None of the Above

Answer Key 1.2.2

1. D
2. C
3. B
 4. C
5. B
6. D
7. A
8. A
9. A
10. C

Information sheet 1.2.3

Taking Body Parts Measurement
Learning Objectives:
At the end of the session the trainees will be able to;
 1. Execute the proper way of taking body measurement
2. Recognize the body garment parts to be measured
3. Take body measurements individually or by pair
Knowledge of your precise bust, waist, hip, and inseam measurements is the key to having perfectly
tailored clothes. Other measurements, including shoulder width and sleeve length, are handy to know as
well. A few tricks will make taking your measurements simple and accurate. Prepare a reference sheet/
measurements chart on which you can jot down the measurements, and maintain good posture when
positioning the tape measure. Ask a friend to assist you with some of the trickier measurements
Without taking body measurements, the fabric material can run out of supply if the tailor uses it too
much. And more material is required to fix small dresses or suits. So when body measurements are taken
accurately, the tailor will know the exact amount of material to be used.
I. The Tape Measure
It is a measuring tool used in taking body measurements, drafting patterns, altering and laying
out the pattern on the fabric. It should be 60 “or 150 cm long, numbered on both sides, made of non -
stretchable materials with metal tips of each end to prevent fraying.
III. Tasks / preparing before taking body measurements
When taking body measurement, wear proper foundation garments (bra or body suit) with a fairly
close-fitting pair of pants or skirt and top with a normal sleeve to help you to measure accurately. The
measurements should be fairly snug. Circumference measurements should be added with ease to facilitate
comfort.
Guidelines in taking measurements correctly and accurately:
1. Put on the right undergarments and a thin layer of clothing
2. Locate the body points tie a cord on the waist so that the waistline is visible.
3. Wear shoes with the correct heel height for hemline or inseam measurements
This is especially important when taking measurements for a dress or pair of trousers. Slip on
the shoes you’re planning to wear with your altered clothes, or a similar pair with the same heel height, to
avoid too short a hemline.
4. Stand straight up with your feet hip-width apart and your head lifted up. Good posture is the key to
accurate measurements. Distribute your weight evenly on both feet, with your feet at least 6 in (15 cm)
apart. Don’t shift your weight to one side, or bend your knees since this will throw off your measurements.
Focus on looking straight ahead rather than glancing down and bending over your head.
5. Use a soft measuring tape. Make sure your tape measure is soft and flexible
6. Make a list to write down and organize your measurements.
REMINDER: Use inches in taking body measurements, since the procedure in drafting
Is in inches (“)
7. Before taking your measurements, create a simple measurements reference sheet/ measurement
chart. In column 1, write down the measurements. Column 2 write the taken measurements,
Column 3 the measurement taken only at the back( shoulder blades
height and shoulder blades distance.)

III. Where and How Body Measurements are taken:

1. Shoulder width- it is taken from one shoulder tip point, passing over the centre base of the neck at the
back (nape) to the other shoulder tip point.
Stand upright with good posture and relaxed shoulders. Have a friend assist you by holding one end of the
tape measure at the outer edge of one shoulder tip.

2. Neck circumference- it is taken around the neck passing the centre bases of
front and back. Measurements is not to tight nor to loose (snug fit- synonym of
comfortable, relax)

3. Bust circumference- it is taken around the body passing the apexes in front
and the shoulder blades at the back. Insert two fingers for ease.

4. Waist circumference- it is taken around the smallest part of the natural

waistline, located at the narrowest part of your torso, generally located
between your rib cage and belly button slightly above the navel. Keep the
measuring tape parallel to the floor as you extend it around your waistline.
Don’t hold your breath or suck your stomach in since this will result in an
incorrect measurement. Be sure you don't draw it too tight.

5. Hip circumference
a. Upper /1st hip circumference- from the side waist point, measure 3 inches
and get the circumference (snug fit).
b. Lower/2nd hip circumference- from the side waist point, measure 6-7 and
get the circumference (snug fit).
(Take only 2nd hip circumference, it is needed for your skirt
Drafting)

6. Apex height- it is taken from the shoulder neck point to the

Fullest part of the apex point (bust point).

7. Apex distance- it is taken from one apex point to the other

apex point.

9. Bodice length- it is taken from the neck shoulder point passing the apex point
to the waist point.
Stand with your back straight and your shoulders relaxed. Ask a friend to
hold the end of the tape measure at the top of your shoulder neck point, where
your shirt’s shoulder seam would be. Have them extend the tape measure down
across your bust until they reach your natural waist.
10. Armhole circumference- it is taken around the arm passing the shoulder tip to
the armpit.
Given an amount of ease/ insert two fingers.

Sleeve lengths
11. Short sleeve length - it is taken from shoulder tip point to the desired
short sleeve length.
12. Lower arm girth/ sleeve circumference- it is taken around the arm
where short sleeve
Length falls.
13. ¾ sleeve - it is taken from shoulder tip point and below to elbow point.
14. 3/4 sleeve circumference- it is taken around where the ¾ length falls.
15. Long Sleeve length- arm is slightly bend, it is taken from shoulder tip
point passing the elbow point to the wrist point.
16. Wrist circumference (for long sleeve length) taken around the wrist
point.

Shoulder blades distance

Shoulder blades point

Shoulder blades height

Waist point

17 Shoulder Blades Height- It is taken from the waist point to the shoulder blades
Point.
18. Shoulder Blades Distance- it is taken from one shoulder blades point to the
Other shoulder blades point.

19. Blouse length- it is taken from the neck shoulder point passing the apex point, waist point, to the desired
length of the blouse.

20. Skirt length- it is taken from the side waist point to the desired length of the skirt you want.
Self-Check 1.2.3

Performance Task

Take your measurements in inches (“) by pair and record it on the Measurement Chart following the format
below. The measurements that will be recorded can be used for pattern drafting as the lessons progresses.

Measurements Front Back

1. Shoulder width
 2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.

Performance Task Criteria Checklist 1.2.3

Criteria Highly Skilled Skilled Moderately Unskilled No Attempt Rating

(5) (4) (3) (2) (1)
Use of tools, Appropriate Appropriate Appropriate Never No attempt
equipment Selection, selection, selection, selects, to use
and materials preparation preparation and preparation prepares and tools/equipm
and use of use of material and use of use of ent
 materials and most of the time material some material and
tools/equipmen of the time tools/equipm
t all the time ent
Procedure Systematic Systematic Systematic Never No attempt
application of application of application of follows to apply
procedure all the procedure procedure systematic procedure to
the time most of the time some of the application project
without without time without of procedure
supervision supervision supervision and highly
dependent on
supervision
Measurement Measurements Measurements Measurements Measurement No attempt
were correctly were correctly were correctly were to take body
and accurately and accurately and accurately incorrectly measurement
taken taken most of the taken some of and not
time the time accurately
taken
Safety/Work Highly self- Self-motivated Self- Needs to be No
Habits motivated and and observes motivated and motivated motivation
observes all most safety observes and does not and totally
safety precautions most sometimes observe disregards
precautions at of the time some safety safety precautions
all times precautions precautions

Learning Outcome 3
Draft Basic Pattern

Learning Activities Special Instruction

Read information sheet 1.3.1 Read and understand the information sheet. Listen to
the trainer during the discussion and demonstration
(Tools and Materials in Drafting Basic Pattern) (trainer is required to make a power point

Answer Self-Check 1.3.1
Read information sheet 1.3.2
(Procedure in Drafting Basic Pattern)
Performance Task Sheet 1.3.2
Information Sheet 1.3.1
Tools and Materials in Drafting Basic Pattern
Learning objectives:
At the end of the session, trainees will be able to;
presentation and other electronic audiovisuals for
better understanding of the trainees). Check yourself
by answering the Self-check. You must answer all
the questions correctly before proceeding to the next
activity.
Submit your answer sheet to your trainer
Read and understand the information sheet. Listen to
the trainer during the discussion and demonstration
(trainer is required to make a power point
presentation and other electronic audiovisuals for
better understanding of the trainees). Check yourself
by answering the Self-check. You must answer all
the questions correctly before proceeding to the next
activity.
Task sheet will help you practice your skills in
drafting bodice sloper (front & back) and sleeve
pattern.
You may apply the techniques used by the trainers
during their demonstration of procedure.
The Performance Criteria checklist will guide and
help you evaluate your work as you are practicing
your skill.
Evaluate your own work using the Performance Task
Criteria. When you are ready, present your work to
your trainer for final evaluation and recording.
If you have questions about the task please ask your
trainer.
After doing all activities of this LO, you are ready to
proceed to the next LO on Take Body Measurements
 1. Identify tools and materials in drafting
2. Select appropriate tools and materials for drafting basic pattern
Introduction
Drafting tools and materials are used in making pattern for garment construction. The skillful use of
different drafting tools and materials will help take body measurement and draft patterns with accuracy and
speed. Success in sewing calls for the right tools at the right time. All tools must be appropriate placed and
one must know how to use them to save time and produce the best result.
Pattern Drafting Tools and Materials
1. Tape measure- a flexible measuring device used in taking
body measurements. The front has the measurement of 150
centimeters and 60 inches on the other side.

2. Ruler- measuring 12 inches or even 18 inches, either clear or

solid. It is a useful tool to have for measuring and drawing
straight seam lines and cutting lines.

3. L-square-used to transfer measurements to the pattern. It also divides the garment into the desired
measurement. It has a perfect square and is useful in making straight lines and numbers.

4. French Curve- used to shape the depth of the neck hole

and armhole of the pattern.

5. Cutting Scissors- used to cut pattern after the transfer of

markings

6. Tailor’s Chalk- is essential as a marker for use on

materials. It is available in a range of colors and is
removed by brushing.
 7. Pattern paper- it where body measurements are being
put.

8. Hip curve – helps to shape the hipline, hem and lapels

9. Pins – used when cutting and sewing material. It is

used to hold the pattern while transferring markings to
the fabric.

10. Cutting Table – it is used for drafting and cutting

fabric. Three (3) feet and five (5) feet length is
desirable of the table.

Self-Check 1.3.1
Multiple Choice:
Directions:
1. Which of the following are used as guides in garment construction?
a. Pins b. Patterns c. Thread d. Pencil
 2. How is L—square used in pattern making?
a. To draw circular patterns
b. For making vertical and horizontal lines
c. For making curve lines near the hip lines
d. All of the above
3. It is used to draft curve lines most specifically from the armhole part
a. L-square b. Hip curve c. French curve d. Tape measure
4. Why do we need to organize and categorize the drafting tools and materials?
a. To make work easier and faster
b. To be able to check what to use when drafting
c. To know how to use materials and tools for drafting activity
d. Both a& b
5. It is flexible tape essential for taking body measurements
a. L-square b. Meter stick c. Ruler d. Tape measure

Identification
Direction: Pick a word from the box that corresponds the given picture

Cutting Scissors Pattern paper Thimble Hip Curve

L-square Tape Measure Pins Cutting

Table

Tailor’s Chalk French Curve Yard Stick Desk

Dressmaker’s Pencil Hand needle Ruler

1. 2.

3.
4.

5. 6.
 8.

7.

10.
9.

Answer Key 1.3.1

Multiple Choice
1. B
2. B
3. C
4. D
5. D
Identification
1. L-square
2. Cutting scissors
3. Cutting table
4. Hip Curve
5. Tailor’s chalk
6. Pattern paper
7. French curve
8. Tape measure
9. Pins
10. Ruler

Information Sheet 1.3.2

Procedure in Drafting Basic Pattern
Learning Objectives:
At the end of the session, trainees will be able to;
1. Identify the different pattern symbols
 2. Prepare the needed measurements for drafting the front and back blouse and sleeve
pattern
3. Follow the steps in drafting the front and back blouse and sleeve pattern
4. Draft the front, back blouse and sleeve pattern
Introduction
A pattern is flat while the body is not. The body has height, width and depth. With this roughly
cylindrical framework there are a series of secondary curves and bulges, which are of concern to the pattern
maker. Darts are found in pattern making. They convert the flat piece of cloth into a three dimensional form,
which fits the bulges of the body.
I. Pattern Symbols
Sewing will be easier if you know how to read patterns. Immediately transfer the symbols to the
fabric after cutting. It’s not fun to look for these symbols after removing the pattern. These guide help the
sewer put together and sew the piece of garment easily.

1. Straight grain The selvage is the finished edge of fabric. It usually

has a different color or texture. Sometimes it has
little holes. Every woven fabric is made crosswise
and lengthwise threads. They are called the grain
threads. When the fabric yarn do not cross at exact
right angles, the cloth is off grain. But if the
lengthwise and crosswise yarns cross each other at
right angle, the fabric is grain-perfect.
2. Pleat This symbol marks the beginning and ending of a
pleat. The arrow indicates which way to fold. In this
example, you would pleat from left to right.
3. Notches These will help you match the pattern pieces. In
sewing garment pieces, the front and back notches
should be aligned. These are the V-shaped symbols
or triangles along the cutting line.
4.Dots They are used to mark important parts of the patterns
such as dart points or pocket placement.
5. Slash Lengthen or shorten. This is the part of the pattern
where you can safely adjust the length. Avoid doing
this before or after the pattern shape could change.
6. Cutting Lines These vary depending on the pattern company but
they’re usually marked with dark line or dotted line.
7. Buttonhole The mark is placed where the buttonhole is made.
They are indicated by solid line having a short line
at right angles to one end
8. Buttons This is where to sew the buttons.
9. Stitching Lines Not all pattern pieces include stitching line. If they
are included then there is a broken line, indicating
the areas that will be stitched together. These are the
guide so you can see where the line of stitching
intersects and where you will not be stitching. It is
not recommended that you mark every stitching line
on to your garment. This would result to excess
handling of your fabric.
10.Fold Line This line indicates that the edge of the pattern piece
must be placed on a fold fabric. The edge of the
pattern piece is usually indicated as a broken line, to
remind you not to cut on that edge. If you cut this
 edge, there is no seam allowance and trying to join
these will change the way the pattern fits, as well as
how other pieces will join to this piece.
11. Centerfold This indicates that the edge of the pattern must be
placed on the folded part of the fabric. This is when
cutting two sides of the garment parts as left and
right or back and front parts.

Sloper
Basic apparel patterns without style lines or seam allowance used at the beginning of the pattern
making process to create new styles. Slopers are often used repeatedly. They contain all the necessary pieces
to create a new style. Slopers are also called master patterns, foundational patterns or standard patterns.
DRAFTING THE FRONT BODICE PATTERN
Tools/Materials needed;
1. Pencil w/ eraser
2. Tape measure
3. French curve
4. L-square
5. Pattern paper
6. Measurement chart
Reminders: Be sure the needed measurements be written on the manila paper, on the portion where you
draft the pattern for easy checking.
FRONT BODICE SLOPER

Measurement Needed Example Measurement

Front bodice length 15”
Shoulder width divided by 2 15” divided by 2= 7 ½”

Bust circumference divided by 4 +1 35 + 1= 36 divided 4= 9”

Waist circumference divided by 4 26 divided by 4= 6”
Apex height 9”
Apex distance divided by 2 7” divided by 2= 3 ½’’
Armhole Circumference divided by 2 16” divided 2= 8”

STEP 1: VERTICALLY MEASURED

1. Draw a perpendicular line from the left
2. A is the corner of two lines
3. AB is the 3 inches downward
4. AC is the apex height
5. AD is the front bodice length
6. Draw horizontal line for A, B, C, and D to the right
STEP 2: HORIZONTALLY MEASURED
1. AF is 3 inches to the right (Connect B and F with a French curve)
 2. AG is ½ of the shoulder width measurement
3. AH is ¼ of the bust circumference plus 1 inch
4. GI is ¾ inch backward
5. GJ is 1 ½ inch downward
6. Connect point F to J with straight line (Shoulder nape)
7. J to K measure 4 ½ inches in the point I
8. JKL is ½ of the armhole circumference
(Connect JKL using French curve)
9. CM is ½ of the apex distance
10. DN is ½ of the apex distance
11. DO is ¼ of the waist circumference plus 1 inch (For dart)
12. N, N1 and N2 is ½ inch to the left and right
13. Connect L and O with straight line
14. Connect M to N1 and N2 with a straight line forming the dart
BACK BODICE SLOPER

Measurement needed Example body measurement

Back bodice length 14”
Shoulder width divided by 2 15” divided 2= 7 ½”
Bust circumference divided by 4 35” divided 4= 8 ¼”
Waist circumference divided by 26” divided by 4= 6”
Shoulder blades height 9”
Shoulder blades distance divided by 2 6” divided 2= 3”
Armhole circumference divide by 2 16” divided 2= 8

STEP 1: VERTICALLY MEASURED

1. Start from the front bodice sloper (point L) measure 2”
From K measure the ¼ bust circumference point D
2. A is the corner of the two lines
3. AB is ½ inches downward
4. AC is the back bodice length
5. Draw horizontal line for C and D to the left direction
STEP 2: HORRIZONTALLY MEASURED
1. AF is 3 inches to the right
2. AG is ½ of the shoulder width measurement
3. AH is ¼ of the bust circumference
4. GI is ½ inch backward
5. Draw point G, H and I downward
6. GJ is 1 ½ inch downward
7. Connect point F to J with straight line (Shoulder nape)
8. K from point J measure 4 ½ inches in line point I
9. JKL is ½ of the armhole circumference in line with L (front bodice) using a French curve
10. DM is ½ of the shoulder blades distance
11. CN is ½ of the shoulder blades distance ( the same distance of DM)
12. CO is ¼ of the waist circumference plus 1 inch (for the dart)
13. N, N1 and N2 is ½ inch to left and right
14. Connect L and O with straight line
15. Connect M to N1 and N2 with a straight line forming the back dart DM is ½ of the shoulder blades
distance
SLEEVE PATTERN
 Open Method (Front & Back)

Measurement Needed Example Measurements

Armhole Circumference 16” divided 2= 8”
Sleeve Length 7”
Sleeve Circumference 12”

Steps:
1. Make a construction line with A as the corner point
2. AB is the sleeve length measure
3. AC is 4 ½ inches
4. Draw the points horizontally
5. AD is ½ of the armhole circumference to the right (front part) and to the left (back part)
Touching line C
6. Divide AD into 4 equal parts (folding the tape measure into 4 based on the armhole measure)
7. Marking the points right side as E, F, G, D (front) and H, I, J (back) left side touching line D1
8. Connect B1 to D and B2 to D1
9. Front Part- F raise 1” upward mark as (F1) and G 3/4'” downward as (G1). Connect A, F1, E, G1 and
D using French curve
10. Back part- H raise ¾” upward and mark as (H1) J ½” downward as (J1). Connect A, H1, I, J1 and D1
using French curve

Performance Task 1.3.2

Performance Criteria 1.3.2
Learning Outcome 4
Dart Manipulation

Learning Activities Special Instruction

Read information sheet 1.4.1
(Dart Manipulation and procedure)
Read and understand the information sheet. Listen to
the trainer during the discussion and demonstration
(trainer is required to make a power point
presentation and other electronic audiovisuals for
better understanding of the trainees). Check yourself
 by answering the Self-check. You must answer all
the questions correctly before proceeding to the next
activity.

Answer Self-Check 1.4.1 Submit your answer sheet to your trainer

Performance Task Sheet 1.4.1
Task sheet will help you practice your skills in dart
manipulation.
You may apply the techniques used by the trainers
during their demonstration of procedure.
The Performance Criteria checklist will guide and
help you evaluate your work as you are practicing
your skill.
Evaluate your own work using the Performance Task
Criteria. When you are ready, present your work to
your trainer for final evaluation and recording.
If you have questions about the task please ask your
trainer.
After doing all activities of this LO, you are ready to
proceed to the next LO on Take Body Measurements

Information Sheet 1.4.1

Dart Manipulation
Learning Objective:
At the end of the session, trainees will be able to
1. Define dart
2. Identify the different methods of dart manipulation
3. Discuss dart manipulation
Introduction
Darts are a dressmaker’s punctuation marks. It is an essential part of garment construction. Darts are
folds and sewn into fabric to take in ease and provide shape to a garment, especially for a woman’s bust.
Darts help in shaping the fabric to fit the body and thus provide comfort to the wearer. They provide fullness
to natural body curves. Darts are very rarely used for decorative purposes like providing a design line. The
fitting, marking, stitching and pressing of dart should be done accurately.
Dart Manipulation Techniques
Dart manipulation is one of the most important techniques when it comes to pattern drafting. Fashion
designer must identify the location of the dart before manipulating the pattern and how to manipulate the
dart. Dart manipulation mainly starts with a basic sloper, which they can convert into their stylish designs.
Darts become princess seams, gathers, tucks or cowls. New styles line are added or moved, necklines are
reshaped.
There are three dart manipulation techniques in flat patterns. These are suitable for manipulate dart to
any location.
1. Pin and Pivotal dart transfer technique
2. Slash-spread transfer and overlap technique
3. Dart equivalent technique
1. Pin and pivotal dart rotation technique
Pattern designers use pivoting methods to make fashion changes. They move darts or
add fullness by anchoring the basic pattern with a pin and moving the pattern in, out and
around. The pattern swings back and forth like the pendulum on a grandfather clock.
Use this pivoting to change the pattern width.
2. Slash-spread dart rotation and overlap techniques
Pattern graders use the slide motion to change pattern sizes. They slide patterns
up, down and to the side to gradually increase or decrease form on size to the
next. Use this sliding motion to add or subtract length.
Pivot and slide techniques combine these two motions to fit a pattern simply,
yet accurately. You make all of the changes on a worksheet, keeping the
original pattern intact- no more cutting and taping. By changing the pattern
equally on both sides of the grain, the seam and the design lines are kept in proportion to the original
pattern. Best of all, each change is easy.
3. Dart equivalents technique
Pleats or gathers in the fabric can be used as for the same purpose as a normal
stitched dart. These are called dart equivalents. Darts can also be worked into
style lines. The dart excess can be used to create a wide variety of other design
features such as, style lines, multiple tucks, gathers, pleats and flare and even
cowls. Essentially, the dart or its equivalent is always present somewhere in the
pattern. The dart or its equivalent will always radiate from the pivot point.

Charting Dart Location:

Darts are an important part of garment construction and there are various types of darts in sewing
that every pattern maker should know. Mostly darts are found in the women’s clothing there is less use of
darts in the men’s clothing for example jackets and trouser. They can also create style lines that add to a
design. Of course, not all types of darts are the same. These are the most used ones you will find in your
favorite fitting garments.

Figure 2: Charting dart location (Beangirldesign.com)

Different Types of Darts
1. Straight Dart
2. Curved Outward Dart
3. Curved Inward Dart
4. Neckline Dart
5. Double Pointed Dart
6. Dart in interfacing

1. Straight Dart
It is a straight line of stitching from the point to the seam line. This
can be notice in the underarm of the front bodice, back skirt, shoulder,
elbow and back neckline.
2. Curved outward dart
The stitch line curves outward along the path from the point to the
seam line. This gives snugger fit to the garment. This is sometimes used
on a bodice front to make a mid-body fit snug.
3. Curved inward Dart
The stitch line curves inward from the point to the seam line. This
facilitates a better fit along the body curve. It is frequently used in pants and
skirts front.
4. Neckline Dart
This is usually a solid line marking on the back neckline indicating a
straight dart of 1/8”.

5. Double pointed Dart

This dart is unique as it tapers in a straight line from the middle to
both the ends and is clipped at the widest part. It is usually made from the
waistline (widest point). It finds application in princess and A-line dresses
over blouses and jackets.
 6. Dart in Interfacing
In this case, a slash is made on the fold line. Then the cut ends are lapped along the line of
stitching and zigzagged to keep in place.

BASIC DART MANIPULATION PROCESS:

The diagram above shows different dart locations. You can practice these dart manipulations as an
exercise using eihther full sizw or half-scale blocks. By moving thes darys aroun the bust point, you will
begin to understand the method.

Follow the step-by-step basic dart manipulation exercise below:

The basic bodice has two darts. Start by consolidating
the two darts into one side seam dart.

1. Trace off the front bodice; here the bodice block is

made from card, making tracing easier and more
accurate.

2. Cut up the front waist dart and the side seam dart.

3.
Close
the
waist
dart, and the side seam dart opens. (Remember not to cut
right through; keep a small amount of paper attached to act
as a hinge.)

To continue this exercise, trace off the front bodice

block onto paper. Draw in the lines to the bust point as
shown on the diagram. To manipulate the darts, simply slash to the apex each time and then close and open
the darts in different locations.

Asymmetric Darts Manipulation:

Asymmetric darts cross center front of the garment. Pattern shapes will change radically from that of the
working Pattern. Asymmetric darts require special pattern handling and identification, as do all designs that
differ from side to side. Compare pattern shapes with each design. Cut basic back to complete the design for
test fit.

 A full front pattern is required.

 Right-side-up instructions are necessary.
 The existing dart of the working pattern may interfere with the placement of a stylized dart. If so, the
dart should be transferred temporarily to another location (such as mid-armhole) before the pattern is
plotted.

Seam allowance is illustrated for each pattern because of the dart’s unique shape and location (1/4 inch at
neck; 1/2 inch at shoulder, armhole, and waist; and 1/2 to 3/4 inch at side seams).

Types of Asymmetric Darts:

Basic asymmetric darts are applied on design pattern. To get different style on pattern, Asymmetric
darts are changes in various ways. Mainly two types of dart variations are common. These are in below

1. Asymmetric radiating darts

2. Asymmetric curved darts

The step-by-step basic Asymmetric dart

manipulation exercise in
below:

1. To create asymmetric darts,

trace off the bodice block
fronts, joining the right and
left sides at the CF (center front). The full bodice is traced off because the right and left sides are to be
different.

2. Cut up both waist and side darts to the

apexes. Close the bust dart until its edges meet.
The waist darts will open.

3. Draw in the new dart lines.

4. First cut along the long line that passes from

left to right.

5.
Close
the
right-hand waist dart, and the long dart opens.
 5. Cut up the shorter dart and close the left-hand
waist dart. The short dart opens.

7. The pattern development is complete. Trace in new

darts and back away from the apex by 4cm (11⁄2in).
This is now your pattern plan. Trace this off onto a
clean sheet of pattern tracing paper. Now you can add
your seam allowance, notches and grain lines.

Changing Darts into Gathers:

 Measure the right-hand dart from A to B. Including the dart, the measurement will be longer from A
to C; gather the excess fullness between the notches to match the shorter side as shown.

Figure: Gather dart

This style has gathering located under the bust

instead of the dart. First, repeat the first six steps from
‘Asymmetric darts’, above.

Intersecting Darts:
Intersecting darts resemble asymmetric darts and dart equivalents. The darts cross center front and
intersect with each other. To complete the design, use basic back pattern.

Types of Intersecting Darts:

Two common intersecting dart designs are practice in dress pattern. But variations are also available
when the generated patterns are correct if they result in exact representations of the designs.

1. Intersecting dart to waist

2. Intersecting dart with gathers

Learning Outcome 5
CUT FINAL PATTERN
Learning Activities Special Instruction

Read information sheet 1.5.1
(Cutting the Final Pattern and the Procedure)
Read and understand the information sheet. Listen to
the trainer during the discussion and demonstration
(trainer is required to make a power point
presentation and other electronic audiovisuals for
better understanding of the trainees). Check yourself
by answering the Self-check. You must answer all
the questions correctly before proceeding to the next
activity.

Answer Self-Check 1.5.1 Submit your answer sheet to your trainer

Performance Task Sheet 1.5.2 Task sheet will help you practice your skills in
planning blouse design, taking body measurement,
manipulating dart and cutting final pattern to
produce unique design of blouse.
You may apply the techniques used by the trainers
during their demonstration of procedure.
The Performance Criteria checklist will guide and
help you evaluate your work as you are practicing
your skill.
Evaluate your own work using the Performance Task
Criteria. When you are ready, present your work to
your trainer for final evaluation and recording.
If you have questions about the task please ask your
trainer.
After doing all activities of this LO, you are ready to
proceed to the next LO on Take Body Measurements

Information Sheet 1.5.1

Cut Final Pattern
Learning Objectives;

Introduction
After the bodice and sleeve pattern are constructed, it is now time to cut the pattern. Following the
correct patterm layout will help ensure that the garment is cut on-grain.