National Textile University

B.Sc. Textile Engineering Technology

LAB REPORT

TT-2068 Industrial cutting and sewing

Semester: 4th

Experiment No. 01
Study of different parts and functions of
Single needle lockstitch machine

Name of Student: Faisal Saeed

Registration No: 20-NTU-TT-1514

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 TABLE OF CONTENTS

ABSTRACT……………………………………………………………………….. 3

INTRODUCTION……………………………………………………………..…. 4

THEORY………………………………………………………………………..... 4

EQUIPMENT & MATERIAL…………………………………………………... 7

REFERENCES…………………………………………………………..………. 8

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ABSTRACT

This experiment helps to understand the different parts sf lockstitch

sewing machine. A lock stitch is the most common mechanical stitch made by a
sewing machine. The term “single needle stitching” often found on dress shirt labels,
refers to lock stitch. There are different parts of lock stitch machine which is used to
apply pressure on fabric and maintain tension on thread and other different functions
are performed by them. Lock Stitch machines also contains bobbin winding assembly
which helps to wind the bobbin automatically. Different types of thread guides and
tensioners to maintain tension on thread. All these parts are mounted on a single
table. This machine is mostly used in industry.

Procedure
First of all see the single needle lock stitch machine careful. Then observe the
thread stand assembly which contains thread bobbin. Observe the thread guide pin rod
and then two hole thread guide. Observe the thread take up lever and then thread spring
tensioner which maintain the tension of the thread. Observe the presser foot bar and
presser foot above the feed dog. Observe the needle which is attach to the needle bar.
Observe the presser foot regulator. Observe the hand wheel situated on the right side of
the sewing machine. Observe the belt cover and stitch dial of the machine. Also observe
the reverse stitch lever of the machine. Observe the oil sight window contains the view of
splashes of the oil when machine is in running condition. Then finally observe the knee
lifter and machine paddle below the machine. Oil pump and and machine oil are situated
in the base or below the machine bed. Open the machine bed and observe it. Finally I
sketch the single needle lock stitch machine.

1. INTRODUCTION

1.1 OBJECTIVE:
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The objectives obtained by this experiment are:
• To obtain a clear knowledge on a particular action of different parts of lockstitch
sewing machine.
• To clearly observe he mechanism , constructions and actions of different parts of
lockstitch machine

1.2 THEORY:

A lock stitch is the most common on mechanical stitch made by a sewing machine.
The term “single needle stitching” often found on dress shirt labels, refers to lockstitch.
The lockstitch uses two threads, an upper and a lower. Lockstitch is so named because
the two threads upper and lower “lock” (entwine) together in a hole in the fabric
which they pass through. The upper thread runs from a spool kept on a spindle on top
of or next to the machine, through a certain mechanism, through the take up arm and
finally through the hole in the needle. Meanwhile the lower thread is wound onto
bobbin, which is inserted into a case in the lower section of the machine below the
material. To make one stitch, the machine lowers the threaded needle through the cloth
into the bobbin area, where a rotating hook (or other hooking mechanism) catches the
upper thread at the point just after it goes through the needle. The hook mechanism
carries the upper thread entirely around the bobbin case, so that it has made one wrap
of the bobbin thread. Then the take-up arm pulls the excess upper thread9from the
bobbin area) back to the top, forming the lock stitch. Then the feed dogs pull the
material along one stitch length, and cycle repeats.
Ideally, the lockstitch is formed in the center of the thickness of the material-–that is to
say: ideally the upper thread entwines the lower thread in the middle of the material.
The thread tension mechanism, one for the upper thread and one for the lower thread,
prevent either thread from pulling the entwine point from out of the middle of the
material.

Different Parts and their functions:

Different parts of lock stitch machine are follows

 Thread stand assembly
 Thread guide pin rod assembly
 Two hole thread guide
 Thread tensioner assembly
 Thread take up leaver
 Needle bar
 Presser foot
 Presser foot bar
 Presser foot bar regulator
 Hand lifter
 Feed dog
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  Needle plate/throat plate
 Flat bed
 Machine head
 Oil sight window
 Oil pump
 Stitch dial
 Belt cover
 Hand wheel
 Bobbin winding assembly
 knee lifter
 Machine pedal
 Reverse feed control lever
 Bobbin

Thread stand assembly :

The main function of thread stand assembly is to
hold the spool of thread. This is the fixed part of a sewing machine.

Thread guide pin rod assembly :

It guide the thread which comes from
thread stand assembly.

Two hole thread guide :

Two hole thread guide further guide the thread
which comes from thread guide pin rod.

Thread tensioner assembly :

Thread tension assembly used to control the
thread tension to give proper stitch on the fabric. If there is a problem of
tension then you may see that stitch is not placing properly. it may loose or
tight. A tension spring is added to control the pressure so that to different
fabrics can join together with proper stitch. Tension disc and spring may
need to change if it is damaged. Sourcing options are local or source it from
China or any other region if you need a large quantity. Remember that you
have to clean dust time to time from the tension discs otherwise, you will get
improper stitch on the fabric.

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Thread take up leaver :
It is a lever fitted to the body of the arm. During
sewing, the top thread passes through the thread take-up lever. Its ups and
down motion feed the thread to the needle.

Needle bar :
This is a steel rod to hold the needle at one end with the
help at clamp.

Presser foot :
A foot-like function that holds the fabric in place, lift and
lower gently. It is fixed to the pressure bar to hold the cloth firmly in position
when lowered. Different feet are appropriate for different sewing techniques
or fabrics. For example, a zipper foot is used to install a zipper, and a roller or
nonstick foot for sewing leather and oilcloth smoothly.

Presser foot bar :

Presser foot bar holds the presser foot in its position.

Presser foot bar regulator :

Presser foot bar regulator is used to control and
maintain the pressure. It helps raising and lowering the presser foot pressure.

Hand lifter :
Hand lifter is used for up and down of the presser foot by
hand. Hand lifter make it easy to place the fabric below the presser foot. It
raises or lowers the presser foot permanently.
Feed dog :
A tooth-like part that helps to move the fabric under the presser
foot. Feed dog helps to feed the fabric to the required direction, either
backward or forward using its teeth. it is a metal-based product. Normally it
is not a visible part of a machine. But if you look closely into the needle plate
then you can see. If the feed dog is damaged then you must need to change it.

Needle plate /throat plate :

The throat plate is placed between the presser
foot and bobbin case. This plate also is known s needle plate. It is made of
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metal and at the time of sewing, a presser foot is placed on top of the throat
plate.

Flat bed :
It is the base of the sewing machine. It is the most commonly used
sewing machine bed. The purpose of designing different type of beds is just
to allow the easy movement of the components being sewn.

Machine head :
The complete sewing machine without the box or stand is
called head. Head may be curved or straight that contains the mechanism for
driving the needle and handling the upper thread.

Oil sight window :

Oil sight window provide the view of splashes of oil
when you run the machine.

Oil pump :
Oil pump is used to supply oil to the different parts of the sewing
machine.

Stitch dial :
It allows the user to choose the length of the stitch. It is used to
increasing and decreasing the stitch density per inch during the sewing.

Belt cover :
Belt cover is used to cover the belt for safety purpose.

Hand wheel :
Fly wheel is also called as hand wheel, always located on
the right side of the machine which is driven by the motor. Also, it can be
turned manually to raise and lower the needle and to take-up the lower
thread for the bobbin. Always turns the fly wheel towards you. It will also
turn toward you as you press the foot controller.

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Bobbin winding assembly :
An empty bobbin is placed on this winder to be
filled with thread from the spool. to ensures that the thread winds evenly,
always start with an empty bobbin.
Knee lifter :
The knee lifter raises or lowers the presser foot so you don’t
have to use your hand. It raises the presser foot temporary.
Machine pedal :
Machine pedal is used to drive the sewing with the help of
foot.
Reverse feed control lever :
The machine will sew in the reverse while the
lever is pushed. Allowing this secure the thread at the beginning and end of a
seam.

Bobbin :
A bobbin is one of an integral part and it is non-electrical part
and holds the lower thread. In a bobbin, threads are wired which is used for
sewing. You need to set the required thread into bobbin. After finishing you
have to refill the bobbin.

2. EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS:

Lockstitch sewing machine

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3. METHOD
• Sliding plate of the machine was removed.
• All the parts of the machine and their functions are clearly understood.
• The belt cover or machine bed was displaced to understand the internal parts of
the machine.

4. RESULTS /CONCLUSIONS
5. Sewing machines deigned to join the pieces of fabric or leather by means of lockstitch
machine or other types of machines. The lockstitch, which is used in the most common
modern machines, is formed from two threads. By this experiment we are able to know
about the parts of lockstitch sewing machines and their functions clearly.

6. REFERENCE
• www.wikipedia.com
• www.juki.co.jp
• www.ebay.com
• www.textilefashionstudy.com
• www.slideshare.net
• www.ordnur.com
• www.marthastewart.co

7. APPENDIX:

A labelled diagram of simple lockstitch machine is attached

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