Display Cabinet - WWK-102

The classic design of the display cabinet made in this episode of Wood Works
includes a flame-maple back panel, cove molding and a handcrafted handle. The
rail-and-stile front and back frames are joined with loose tenons, and the solid
cherry case is sun-oxidized for a rich finish.

Shaping Cove Molding, Making Side Panels and Building Frame of the Door

Materials:
2-3/8" thick solid cherry stock
Table saw with fence
Gooseneck scraper
Pencil
Safety goggles

First, the fence of the table saw should be set up diagonally as seen here (figure
A). By cutting across the blade diagonally, you use the arc of the blade to create
the curve in the cove molding.

Using the steps of the story block as a guide, cut out the 2-3/8" cherry stock.

To cut the cove, raise the saw blade 1/16" at a time and keep passing the wood
until it's reached the full height.

Cut a rabbet groove on each piece by resetting the blade in small increments until
the profile is completely cut.
Set the saw blade at a 30-degree angle to make the first cut of the bevel.

Move the saw blade over 10 degrees, stand the block against the fence and finish
making the bevel (figure B).

Smooth away the mill marks made by the table saw with a gooseneck scraper,
which is made to fit the cove design of this piece.

Mark the top of the cove molding with a pencil for the following step -- see below --
of joinery biscuit cutting. Be sure your measurements on each side are exact.

Case Work (Side Panels)

Materials:
Biscuit cutter
Side panels of cherry wood
Drill
Double-stick tape
Yellow wood glue
Clamps
Square

First, use a biscuit cutter to create the joinery for the cabinet display top, which
was just completed. Once the biscuit cutter is aligned (figure C), mill out the slots
for the joinery.
Once the joinery for the side panels is complete, it's time to cut the holes that will
hold the glass shelves. It's vital that these holes align properly. David Marks
accomplished this by creating a special gig (figure D) that aligns against the side
panels perfectly to act as a template for the holes. This is a surefire way to make
certain all the reference points for the holes stay the same.

Place double-stick tape on the bottom of the special gig, position the first side panel
and drill the holes. Be sure the depth gauge on the drill press is set appropriately --
you don't want to drill completely through the wood.

Once the holes are drilled, it's time to glue the cove molding top and bottom to the
side panels.

Brace the glued joinery with clamps. Use a square to make sure the corners are
level.

Let the glue dry.

MAKING AND INSTALLING THE FLAME-MAPLE BACK PANEL

Materials:
Flame-maple wood panel stock
Band saw
Jointer
Drum sander
Yellow wood glue
Clamps
Router table
Table saw and fence
Stop blocks
Solid cherry frame stock
2-flute carbide bit
1/8" radius bit
Tenon stock
Hand-held scraper

Tip from David Marks: One of the problems with any piece of highly figured wood
is that it's prone to chipping. To solve this problem, have a back bevel (figure A)
placed on the knives of your jointer. What you're looking for is a net cutting angle
of 10 degrees, which will reduce the problem of chipping wood.

Make the flame-maple wood flat by passing it over a jointer a few times. Remember
to pass the wood gently over the jointer to get a cleaner cut.

Tip: Another way to reduce chips is to push the panel stock over the knives at an
angle.

Using a band saw, resaw the panels to thickness -- approximately 1/4".

Run the panel pieces through a drum sander (figure B) to achieve the exact
thickness desired.

Joint the inside edges of the panel, then glue the matching edges together and
clamp securely. Let glue dry.

Preparing the Frames for the Back Panel

Note: For this particular project you will be making 2 frames -- 1 for the panel that
goes into the back of the display cabinet and 1 for the door that will hold the glass
for the cabinet.

Rail-and-stile construction will be used for the frames, and the joinery will be done
with the mortise-and-loose-tenon style. To add some visual weight, Marks decided
to make the bottom rail wider than the top one, which means the joinery ( figure
C) has to be wider.

Set up the router table with stop blocks clamped in place to protect the maple wood
and to control the length of the mortise cut.

Attach the 2-flute carbide bit and cut the mortise into the bottom rail (figure D).
To relieve pressure on the bit, make the cuts about 1/4" at a time.
Repeat the process in the last step for the rails on both the door frame and the
panel frame, making adjustment for the different size mortises.

For the stiles of both frames, you'll need an auxiliary fence (figure E) to allow for
the extra length. The mortises in the stiles have to match the appropriate size of
the ones that were cut in the rails.

Use a smaller 2-flute bit (3/32") to cut a dado in the panel frame (figure F). This is
where the flame-maple panel will be inserted.

Cut a rabbet in the back of the door frame (figure G) to house the glass.

To take away the sharp edges on the inside of both frames, use a 1/8" radius bit to
get a more rounded feel to the wood.

Note: When using the radius bit for the stiles, it's important to mark the position
for the cut to make sure you don't run past the point where the stile meets the rail.
Cut the tenon stock and be sure to round the corners with a 1/8" radius bit to fit
the mortise perfectly (figure H).

Cut the tenon to length on the table saw.

Glue the tenons and assemble the frame of the door, using a clamp to secure. Let
the glue dry.

While the glue is drying on the frame, use a hand-held scraper over the surface of
the flame-maple panel until you can see the depth of the curl of the flame maple
coming out.

Take the flame-maple panel to the table saw and trim to size.

Glue the panel into the frame. Be sure to glue only the mortises and on the tenons
(never in the dado) so the panel has room to expand and contract (figure I).

Clamp the frame and panel and let the glue dry for at least a couple of hours.
MAKING AND INSTALLING THE DOOR FRAME AND BRASS HINGES

Materials:
Door-frame wood stock
Hand-held router with customized base blade (with a dowel [figure A] glued into
the router to act as a bearing and travel along the inside of the frame)
3/16" V-bit
Hand chisel
Hammer
File
Yellow wood glue
Clamps
3 cauls
Tape measure
Band saw
Cherry stock (for door-frame trim that will enclose the glass)
Drum sander
Chop saw
Drill press
Brass hinges and screws
Plunge router
2-flute bit
Screwdriver

To create a shadow line along the inside of the door frame, use a hand-held router
with a dowel (see figure A) attached to make a 1/4" bead along the inside of the
frame (figure B).
Use a hammer, hand chisel (figure C) and file to clean the corners of the door
frame and to add detailing.

Once the frame has beading, it's time to glue the rabbet and fit the flame-maple
back panel into place, using a hammer and block of wood to make sure the panel is
installed tightly.

For maximum tightness Marks suggests that you use clamps and 3 cauls (figure D)
to secure the back panel. The cauls will apply pressure that will push the panel
down into the back of the cabinet. To achieve this, use clamps to attach the cauls
to the worktable. This will ensure that you get the force you need to push the panel
down into the rabbet securely.

To work on the corners of the back of the door frame, use a sharp chisel to square
the rounded corners.

When all four corners are squared and cleaned, place the door glass down into the
frame. Measure for the trim that will secure the glass into the door frame. Note:
The glass will not be installed until the final stages (see Final Touches and
Finishing).

Use a band saw to cut the cherry stock trim and a drum sander to clean the pieces.

Use a chop saw to cut the pieces to size, making a miter for the corner (figure E).
Use a drill press to create the holes for the pen that will hold the trim to the door
frame.

Installing Hinges

Place the hinge where you want it to go and use a pencil to mark for the screw
placement (figure F).

Before using a plunge router to create a mortise, make a scribe line by laying a
sharp chisel on the pencil lines and giving it a few good taps; this will make the
next step (routing a mortise for the hinge) much easier.

Use a 2-flute bit to route out the mortise (figure G) for the hinges.

Clean the cuts with a sharp blade or chisel.

Fit the door into the case and mark the positions for the mortises on the door.

Install the hinges with a screwdriver and screws.

FINAL TOUCHES AND FINISHING

Materials:
Solid cherry stock (for handle)
Scroll saw
Yellow wood glue
Gloves
Tung oil
Paintbrush
Cloth (for buffing)
Glass
Wood trim (made earlier)
Brass suspension pins (to hold glass trim in place)
Hammer
2 glass shelves
Shelf brackets (your choice)

Once the door has been attached to the case, it's time to add the solid cherry
handle. Marks created an ornate handle that echoed the curves (figure A) of the
cove molding by using a scroll saw; however, you may use any design you wish.

Attach the handle with yellow wood glue. Let dry.

Wearing gloves, apply tung oil with a paintbrush. It will take about four coats (dry
and buff between each coat).

To oxidize the cabinet, set it out in the sun to dry.

Note: When exposed to the sun, cherry wood will oxidize to a beautiful deep red
hue.

The next-to-last step is to install the glass for the door. Place the glass in the door
frame, then secure the wood trim (created earlier -- see Installing Door Frame)
with brass suspension pins, hammering gently.

The final step is to install the 2 glass shelves

 102 - WALL HANGING DISPLAY CABINET
FINAL DIMENSIONS 18” L x 9 5-8” W x 40” H
MATERIAL QUANTITY LENGTH WIDTH THICKNESS USE
Cherry 2 17 7-8" 9 5-8" 2 3-8" Solid Base and
Crown
Cherry 2 35" 7 5-16" 3-4" Sides
Cherry 2 35" 2 1-4" 3-4" Door Frame -
Sides
Cherry 1 10 1-2" 3" 3-4" Door Frame -
Bottom
Cherry 1 10 1-2" 2 1-4" 3-4" Door Frame -
Top
Cherry 4 2 1-8" 1 1-16" 1-4" Tenons for Door
Frame
Glass 1 30 3-16" 11 1-8" 1-8" Panel for Door
Frame
Brass Pin 8 Brass Pin
Supports Supports
Glass Shelves 2 13 15- 5 13- 1-4" Shelves
16" 16"
Cherry 1 3 3-4" 1" 1-2" Door Handle
Brass Rods 2 1" 3-16" For Mounting
the Handle
Cherry 2 35" 1 13- 1-2" Frame Sides -
16" Back
Cherry 2 10 1-2" 1 7-8" 3-16" Frame Sides -
Top & Bottom
Figured Maple 1 32 1-4" 11 1-4" 1-2" Back Panel
Cherry 2 14 3-16" 3" 1-2" Mounting
Bracket
Brass Screws 9 3-4" 3-16" Attaching the
Bracket
Hinges 2 2 1-2" 1-2" Door Hinges

Finish : Tung-oil