Market analysis of door handle

Everything You Ever Wanted To Know About

Spindles from Progressive Hardware
BY WILLIAM ZILS ON AUG 2, 2012

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A few years ago, a customer called me in a panic. He had a couple of installers working at a Federal building in

Washington D.C. and they had a problem. This call was about several sets of period reproduction knobs and

escutcheons they had manufactured and the installers had been provided with the wrong knob spindles.

Several thousand dollars of hardware and two men were sitting idle. The foundry was on the West Coast; the

installation was on the East Coast.

The problem was the mortise locks had not been examined properly. The knob spindles would not fit into the

lock hubs. A couple of telephone conversations with the factory and the installers on site solved the problem. A

small box of spindles was sent out NEXT DAY AIR, the job was completed. Total cost for the spindles, less

than $100. Total cost for two men doing nothing for two days - you figure it out!

Progressive Hardware offers a complete catalog of products, yet we probably spend more time talking to

customers about what kind of spindle to use than any other topic. So simple but so complicated. I cannot tell

you what knob spindle to use in every lock in the country, but I might be able to help you to know what to look

for in order to purchase the correct spindle.

During the last 100 years or so, lock manufacturers have come up with all sorts of ingenious ways to get a

doorknob to work their mortised lock. Basically, you put a square rod into a square hole and turn the rod; the

latching mechanism retracts and the door can be opened. But it was kind of rough on the fingers trying to turn

that rod, so someone put a knob or a lever on the end.

The next question was how do we keep the knob on the spindle? Each lock factory had their favorite methods.

The simplest was a square hole knob slipping over a square spindle, held in place with a setscrew.

A more complex method was a knob with a setscrew that when driven into the spindle, caused it to expand and

thereby locking the knob in place. Later, as manufacturing methods progressed, the factories learned how to

thread the square spindle rod. This allowed the knobs to also be threaded internally and screwed onto the

spindle, secured in place with one or two setscrews.

So now we have a lock with a square hub, a square spindle that may or may not be threaded and a knob or

lever that may or may not be threaded inside. You probably thought you were finished but it’s not that easy.

The lock manufacturers then learned that if they used a square rod that is 9/32” square (.281”), they could put a

3/8” thread on the four corners. It was easy to put a 3/8” thread inside the doorknobs, so this sounded like a

good idea. Well, it seems that Yale Lock decided to use 3/8” -20 threads per inch for their spindles. Sargent

Lock decided to use 3/8”-16 threads per inch. Lockwood went ahead and made their spindles 3/8”- 18 threads

per inch. Other lock manufacturers picked and choose one of these various threads and of course none of

these are inter-changeable.

To make matters worse, some lock makers thought that a 9/32” square spindle was not strong enough so let’s

use a 5/16”, or 3/8” or even 1/2” square spindle. Of course when you thread these larger spindles you now

have a larger thread size. If you put thread on the corners of a 5/16” square you get 7/16” thread and on a 3/8”

square spindle you’ll end up with 1/2” thread.

To make life more miserable, Yale Lock decided that we were not capable of measuring a 9/32” spindle with a

ruler. After all 9/32” is .281” which is almost .312”, which is 5/16” and how many of those little lines can you

really count on a ruler (Remember that this was a long time ago). So when you looked in an old Yale Lock

catalog, the 9/32” square spindles are actually called 5/16” square.

Mortise locks progressed and it was thought that it would be a great idea if the exterior knob could be locked

and the interior knob would still operate. This was the birth of the swivel spindle.

Some mortise lock makers used two different sized hubs for the knob spindle. This prevented the spindle from

being pushed through; it made the spindle installation self-centering. Typically one hub was 9/32” square and

one was 5/16” square. But not always! One side might be 9/32” or 5/16” square and the other was 3/8” square.

But the threaded portion of the spindle may still maintain the 9/32” square even though the center of the spindle

is 5/16” or 3/8” square.

Along the way someone decided it would be nice if you could have a doorknob only on one side of the door.

Typically the other side might have a sectional handle set. To accomplish that, you would need a two-piece

sectional spindle.

There are as many spindle variations, as there are ideas. In order to identify the correct spindle, consider the

following.
1. There are three basic styles of spindles:

A. Straight spindles—primarily used for passage, non locking entries.

B. Swivel spindles—primarily used on mortise locks, provides a means of attaching two knobs or levers to the

lock.

C. Sectional spindle—provides a means of attaching a knob or lever to one side of a door.

2. The size of the square rod, measured across the flats.

If you don’t have the original spindle to compare to, it will be necessary to measure the lock hub diameter. An

easy way to do this is by using a drill. Find the largest drill that will go into the hub. That’s probably the spindle

size.

Remember, some locks use two different size hubs. You will need to measure both sides of the lock.

At this point it may get a little tricky. The center of a swivel spindle, the part that ends up in the lock hubs, may

be fatter then the spindle ends. You need to establish the spindle size that goes into the knob or lever and also

if the center is bigger.

A. The majority of spindles are 9/32” square

B. A smaller portion are 5/16” square, mostly for levers

C. A very small segment are 3/8” square

D. All the rest

3. Is the spindle threaded and, if so, what thread is it? The vast majority of threaded spindles are 9/32”

square. This means the thread is 3/8” -?? Unknown pitch. To calculate the pitch, you either need a set of pitch

gauges or if your eyes are good enough: a ruler and count the threads in one inch.

By now you should have an idea of the basic spindle you need. We have assumed that the spindle is threaded

or not threaded. But there are also many other variations on how the knob is attached.

Tapped holes—Older style doorknobs did not have any thread in the base of the knob for the setscrew. The

setscrew passed through the knob shank into a threaded hole in the spindle. These spindles may or may not

be threaded and they could be straight or swivel.

Pin holes—Some knobs are pushed over the unthreaded square spindle and then a roll pin is driven into the

knob shank and thru the spindle. The location of the pin hole is now important in placing the knob correctly.

Some of our spindles have pin holes pre-drilled but they may or may not be in the correct location. In this case,

the installer may have to drill his own hole. We also sell knob washers that go around the spindle and under the

knob to take up any play.

Knob pinned to swivel spindle—Only one knob or lever can be pinned in this manner to the spindle. You

need to pass the opposite end of the spindle through the lock body and attach the other knob/lever in some

other manner. The traditional manner is to thread on the other knob and secure with setscrews. Several

manufacturers have come up with some ingenious variations. Usually it involves driving the setscrew into some

sort of depression or groove in the spindle.

Spindle with a stop pin or notch—The pin or notch actually stops the spindle from being inserted further into

the lock hub when both hubs are the same size.

Removable center versus solid center—The method used to increase the size of the spindle center can

vary. Some spindles were actually cast with a larger diameter in the center. This method was expensive and

we instead use a square sleeve that is a press fit over the 9/32” spindle. The diameter of the sleeve is

somewhat less than 3/8” so that it can pass through a 3/8” lock hub. In an emergency this sleeve can be

knocked off if you have a means of holding the spindles and hammering the sleeve off. Important: This works

well if you need a smaller spindle (9/32”) and didn’t bring one.

The other means of building up the center diameter of a spindle is with “Removable Centers.” This is an easy

way to cover several options with one spindle. Use the spindle with two centers, use it with one center or use it

with no centers. This type of center is not as substantial as a press on center but in a pinch it will work fine.

However, be aware that its life cycle will be shorter.

We have talked a lot about swivel spindles. There is one common problem that pops up because it’s often

forgotten. In order for the interior and exterior knobs to work independently, the swivel spindles halves must be

able to swivel. To do this, before installing into the lock, lightly screw both halves together and then back off

one turn. This is very important.

Photos 20-22 show a spindle being inserted into a mortise lock. Be sure that the center of the swivel spindle is

in the center of the lock. Photo 23 shows a typical pair of lock hubs that has been removed from a lock to

illustrate the spindle in its correct position HOW LONG A SPINDLE?? The spindle needs to pass through the

door thickness, through the thickness of whatever trim is in place and still have enough left over to attach a
knob or lever. The easiest answer is to put back the same length you took out. If you don’t have the previous

spindle, then you need to calculate a size. Try to measure the overall thickness of the door and trim together at

the point the spindle passes through the lock.

Add to this size a sufficient length for spindle to attach your knob or lever. In photo 24, the door is 1-3/4” plus

about ¾” of trim. The overall dimension is 2-1/2”. I want the spindle to thread at least 1” into each knob;

therefore I want a spindle at least 4-1/2” long. Since my knobs on this lock are hollow, I don’t need to worry

about the spindle being too long. Some knobs have a blind hole and levers in particular have this issue. In

these cases it may be necessary to be more precise in the length of the spindle or you may have to cut a

portion off.

I’ve often been asked what a locksmith should stock. First, know your customer base. Each town or city seems

to develop around one or two major manufacturers over its life. But be careful, if a customer calls and tells you

he or she has a Sargent mortise lock on their door. Don’t assume the spindle is threaded 3/8-16. It could have

been previously replaced and it could be 3/8-20 threads per inch. As long as the knob and spindle are threaded

the same, the lock really doesn’t care. Remember, it’s still only a square rod turning a square hub.

To help simplify matters, Progressive Hardware sells two spindle kits that will probably cover a majority of the

mortise locks you will service. One kit is for 3/8-20 thread knobs. This is the majority of the country and covers

Arrow, Corbin, Marks, National, Norwalk, Russwin and Yale. This is our Number 20. The other kit is for 3/8-16

and 3/8-18 thread knobs. This is aimed at Lockwood and Sargent knobs plus a few other companies. This is

our kit Number 1618.

The #45-20-RTP Universal Spindle is always a good bet to keep around plus a pair of 20 thread knobs to go

with it. Don’t get hung up on the idea that you have to put 3/8-18 thread knobs on a Lockwood mortise lock.

The lock doesn’t care you only need something to turn the square hub. If the knobs fit the trim and the spindle

works the lock, you’re done!

We have also developed a numbering system that should help you identify and purchase our spindles. In

general:

The first 2 digits indicate if the spindle is Straight (44), swivel (45) or sectional (46).

The next 2 digits indicate the number of threads per inch, 16, 18 or 20.

The last digits indicate some sort of special characteristic.

Therefore a #45-20-P, is a swivel spindle (45), threaded 20 threads per inch (20), with a pin stop (P). A #44-18-

5 is a straight spindle (44), 18 threads per inch (18), 5” long (5).

As a reference, Progressive Hardware has an available Spindle Chart that shows pictures of the majority of the

spindles that we make.

For more information, contact Progressive Hardware at Telephone 631-757-8866, Fax 631-757-8870, e-mail

bill@progressive-hardware.com and online at www.progressive-hardware.com.

Door Knob

There are 114 million existing doorways in the United States, with
about two million new ones added every year. Doors equipped with
suitable hardware are used to close off these openings and protect the
interior of the building from the environment. Very early doors were
merely hides or textiles. Wooden doors were also popular in ancient
Egypt and Mesopotamia. Other materials used for doors include stone,
metal, glass, and paper. Doors open by swinging, folding, sliding or
rolling. Many swinging doors are installed with a lever or doorknob to
open them with.
Door knobs have been used around the world for centuries, and were
first manufactured in the United States in the mid-nineteenth century.
Though spherical or ball-shaped door knobs are considered the hardest
to turn, this shape is still the most common. Egg-shaped door knobs
are the easiest for most people to use. Doorknobs have been made of
many materials, including wood, ceramic, glass, plastic and different
types of metal. Brass is one of the most popular materials because of
its excellent resistance to rust.
The average doorknob is 2.25 in (5.715 cm) in diameter. The basic
components are the knob rose, shank, spindle, and knob-top. The
knob-top is the upper and larger part that is grasped by the hand. The
shank is the projecting stem of a knob and contains a hole or socket to
receive the spindle. The knob rose is a round plate or washer that
forms a knob socket and is adapted for attachment to the surface of a
door. The knob is attached to the spindle, a metal shaft that turns the
latch of the lock.

History
American doorknob designs and materials have changed throughout
the years. In colonial times the first door hardware was made out of
wood, and involved simple latches and strings. Round knobs first
appeared around the time of independence. Decorative hardware,
including knobs, emerged after the Centennial Exposition of 1876.
Before this time, most door hardware was imported; 95% in 1838.
Glass knobs were rare until a faster and cheaper manufacturing
method was developed based on pressing. Pressed glass knobs were
popular from 1826-1850, followed by cut glass through 1910. Wooden
knobs were introduced in the late 1800s and were phased out after
1910. China or ceramic knobs were mainly imported from France and
England until the mid-1800s, when the first U.S. patent was granted for
making knobs out of potters clay.
Before 1846, metal knobs were made from two pieces brazed together
or three pieces soldered together. Cast metal knobs were introduced
around 1846. In the late 1800s, composite metal knobs were
introduced as a less expensive knob. The main body was made out of
iron or steel, covered entirely or in part with a veneer of bronze or
brass. During the last half of the nineteenth century, many patents
were issued regarding the spindle methods of attaching metal knobs
for lock use, as well as designs for ornamenting these knobs. In 1870,
a compression casting method was introduced that accelerated
ornamentation of hardware.
Many of the Victorian doorknobs were made of cast bronze with
ornamental patterns. During this period, a dozen major companies and
many smaller firms produced hundreds of patterns of ornamented
hardware, in addition to cast and wrought metal, glass, wood and
pottery knobs. From 1830-1873, there were over 100 U.S. patents
granted for knobs. Collectors have catalogued over 1,000 antique
doorknob designs into 15 types based on shape, material, and design
pattern. The best grade of knobs during this period were usually made
from cast bronze or brass.
Around 1900, cast metal and glass knobs were introduced that
incorporated ball bearings in the shanks of doorknobs. In operation,
the knob shank rotated on sets of ball bearings fitted in the hardened
steel cones. This reduced friction, assured closer adjustment, and
eliminated endplay of the knobs. Other materials popular during the
early 1900s included bronze and porcelain.
Most doorknobs come with some type of locking device. Machine
processes for steel locks were first introduced in 1896. Today, the
most common type of privacy lock is the spring lock, which uses a
simple round, push button located in the center of the knob to control
the bolt. It is easy to operate with a finger, closed fist, or elbow. Some
locks come with both a spring lock and a dead bolt, which is operated
by a key. Other locks have become more sophisticated, and use some
sort of electronic device, such as a programmable computer chip that
identifies users.

Design
Door hardware selection is usually based on appearance, cost, and
availability, rarely on function. In order to assure the most usable
hardware, designers must carefully consider not only appearance but
also the size, shape, and feel of each element of door hardware and
how easy it is to use. Typical design features of a doorknob include: no
sharp edges or ridges; a shape that is easily grasped or turned; a
textured finish or non-slip coating on knob to improve grip; and a shaft
long enough to fit hand behind knob.
If a new design is required, a two-dimensional model is usually made
using computer-aided design software. A three dimensional prototype
is then fabricated so that a mold or die can be made of the desired
shape. If a metal casting process is used, a pattern in wood or clay is
made from which to make the mold.

Raw Materials
Most doorknobs are made of metal, with the most common type brass.
The term brass refers to a group of alloys that contain a combination
of varying amounts of copper and zinc. The material is usually received
as a rod or billet of suitable diameter and is machine cut to the
required length. The raw material must conform to standards
developed by the American Society of Testing and Materials regarding
physical, mechanical, chemical, thermal, and microstructural
properties for each specific process.

The Manufacturing
Process
Though there are several processes used for metal doorknobs,
including casting where a molten metal is poured into a mold, brass
doorknobs are typically forged. Forging is a process in which heated
metal is forced into shaped dies under very high pressure. Forging can
produce products having superior strength, toughness, reliability, and
quality (up to 250% stronger than castings). Forging can also be more
efficient and economical.

Forging
 1 The billet must first be heated to 1,400° F (759.9° C) in a gas-fired
furnace to soften the metal. The billet is then placed in a specially
designed set of steel dies that are shaped to conform to the profile of
the product being made. A press applies high pressure to force the
heated billet into the die cavity, where the billet now takes the shape
of the doorknob.
  2 After the doorknob is ejected from the press, it is cooled, trimmed to
size, tempered, and cleaned to remove heat scale produced during the
process.

Surface preparation
 3 Next, the doorknob goes through a series of finishing steps. Separate
coining, milling, drilling, and tapping processes produce a surface
ready for the polishing operation.

The average doorknob is 2.25 in (5.715 cm) in diameter. The basic components are
the knob rose, shank, spindle, and knob-top. The knob-top is the upper and larger
part that is grasped by the hand. The shank is the projecting stem of a knob and
contains a hole or socket to receive the spindle. The knob rose is a round plate or
washer that forms a knob socket and is adapted for attachment to the surface of a
door. The knob is attached to the spindle, a metal shaft that turns the latch of the
lock.

One or more buffing steps are used to achieve a brilliant finish.

Coating
 4 For further protection, an organic or inorganic coating is applied
using several different processes. Organic coatings include
polyurethanes, acrylics, and epoxies. Because the solvents used in
organic coatings can produce hazardous materials and quality
problems, manufacturers are turning to inorganic coatings based on
inert metals. These are applied using electroplating or physical vapor
deposition (PVD).
  5 PVD applies a coating produced by sputtering and thermal
evaporators in an airtight chamber. The chamber is evacuated to high
vacuum pressures (less than one millionth of an atmospheric pressure)
by a series of pumps. A thin coating is deposited one molecule at a
time. For successful PVD, the brass surface must first be extensively
cleaned in a series of washing and agitating tanks, followed by
electroplating with semiprecious materials.

Quality Control
The raw material must be of suitable composition for the forging
process, as established by the American Society for Testing and
Materials. Various process parameters throughout the manufacturing
process are monitored and controlled to ensure the final product
meets quality standards. The finished doorknob is inspected for
dimensions, surface finish, and other properties. Some of these
properties may have to conform to certain building codes.

Byproducts/Waste
Since forgings are designed to approximate final part shape, little
waste is produced compared to other processes. The forging process
also results in uniformity in composition, dimensions, and structure
from piece to piece and lot to lot, which also minimizes rejects.

The Future
Security and access control systems for doors will continue to become
more sophisticated as the cost of electronics decreases. Though there
will always be a demand for mechanical hardware, electrical hardware
may have faster growth. New building codes may be required to
accommodate this hardware.
The common doorknob will continue to play an important role in the
building industry. Restoration and renovation of older buildings will
continue to make antique doorknobs or their reproductions popular.

Where to Learn More

Books
Eastwood, Maud. Antique Builders Hardware, Knobs &
Accessories. Woodinville, WA: Antique Doorknob Publishing Co., 1992.
Eastwood, Maud. The Antique Door Knob. Woodinville, WA: Antique
Doorknob Publishing Co., 1976.

Periodicals
The Doorknob Collector (January-February and March-April 1999).
Heppes, Jerry. "The Future of the Industry. "Doors and
Hardware (December 1998): 20-29.

Other
The Antique Doorknob Collectors of America. PO Box 31, Chatham,
New Jersey. (973) 635-6338. Fax: 973-635-6993.
Baldwin Hardware Corp. 841 Wyomissing Blvd., Reading, PA 19011.
(800) 437-7448.
The Door and Hardware Institute. 14170 Newbrok Drive, Chantilly, VA
20151-2232. (703) 222-2010. Fax: 703-222-2410. Http://www.dhi.org/ .
— Laurel Sheppard
 Door handle
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overview of all important aspects of the article. Please discuss this issue on
the article's talk page. (May 2010)

A basic modern door knob (USA).

A door handle is an attached object or mechanism used to manually open or close a door.[1] In
the United States, a door handle generally refers to any fixed or lever-operated door latch device.
The term door knob or doorknob tends to refer to round operating mechanisms. Home-entry door
handles are usually more sophisticated than bedroom door handles.

Contents
[hide]

 1Description
o 1.1Types
 2Usage
o 2.1Cars
 3Foldables
 4Pocket doors
 5Infection control
 6Gallery
 7References
 8External links

Description[edit]

Parts of a basic door knob.

The traditional door knob has a bolt or spindle running through it that sits just above a cylinder, to
which the spindle is connected. Turning the knob pulls the cylinder in the direction of the turn. The
end of the cylinder is the "latch bolt" (more simply known as the "latch"), which protrudes into a
space carved out of the door frame, and which prevents the door from being opened if the knob is
not turned. A spring or similar mechanism causes the latch to return to its protruding state whenever
the knob is not being turned. escutcheon plates are the keyhole covers, usually circular, through
which keys pass to enter the lock body. If the door handles have a square or rectangular plate on
which the handle is mounted this is called the backplate. The backplate can be plain (for use with
latches), pierced for keyholes (for use with locks), or pierced and fitted with turn knobs and releases
(for use with bathroom locks). The plate on the front edge of the lock where the latch bolt protrudes
is called the faceplate.[2]
Door handles can be and have been made out of a wide variety of materials. Just a few examples
include brass, white porcelain, brown mineral, cut glass, wood, and Victorian bronze.[3]
Types[edit]

 The most common and basic type of doors handle is the Lever latch door handle on a
backplate found in residential houses and commercial and public buildings. Doors fitted with this
handle has a latch which is used to keep the door shut. The door handle features only a lever
handle which operates this latch. When the handle is pushed down, the spindle rotates which
“passes through the door and the tubular latch inside the door allowing the door to be opened”.
[4]
This type of door handle is normally found on doors leading into the living and dining rooms as
they don’t require any type of locking. The lever latch handle is also easy to install and use and
is available in a variety of styles and finishes.
 The Lever lock door handle on a backplate is another type of door handle which operates
similarly to the lever latch door handle.[5] This type of handle on a backplate consists of a lever
and just below it, a key hole cut. This allows a key to be inserted into the door to control a
mortice sash lock. Just the like the lever latch, the door can be opened and shut by pushing the
handle but can also be locked using a key. This locking mechanism is why this type of door
handle is used for front and back doors of residential housing.
 The Lever Bathroom is typically used on bathroom doors as they can be locked easily from the
inside and in and emergency can be opened from the outside. Locking the door from the inside
is accomplished by turning the snib while a coin or something similar is required to open the lock
from the outside. This lock is fitted with a mortice sash with the attached to a 5mm spindle which
passes through the door.
 The Lever Privacy is similar to the Lever Bathroom in that it is locked by turning a snib on the
inside and can be unlocked from the outside in emergencies. Unlike the Lever Bathroom, there
is no mortice sash; the locking is achieved by jamming the lever in a closed position.[6]

 Pull door handle or simply Pull handle are U-shaped and they are used especially in the
kitchen but also for drawers. Usually made of stainless steel.

Usage[edit]

Door handle with lock which requires a key to open.

The location of the door handle along the horizontal axis on the door may vary between a few inches
or centimeters away from the edge of the door to the exact center of the door, depending on local
culture, decorative style or owner preference. The distance from the edge of the door to the center of
the handle is called the backset.
The location of the door handle along the vertical axis on the door may vary between 34 to 48 inches
(860 to 1,220 mm).[7]
In Europe door levers are more common than the door knob, while in the US, door knobs are
traditionally preferred over door levers. [citation needed] However door knobs can be difficult for the young
and elderly to operate. For this reason, door handles in most
American commercial and industrial buildings and in many households use a lever-operated handle,
rather than a knob, as the lever does not require a tight grip. Levers are also beneficial on doors with
narrow stile widths where the reduced backset leaves insufficient space to comfortably turn a door
knob.
Most household door handles use a simple mechanism with a screw-style axle (called a spindle) that
has at least one flat side, which is passed through the door jigger, leaving some length exposed on
each side of the door to which the handles are attached. Some handles are attached on both sides
by screwing or sliding them directly onto the spindle, and then securing one or more retaining screws
(set screws) through the knob perpendicular to the flat of the spindle. Handles that lose traction can
frequently be repaired by replacing or adjusting the set screw, which prevents them from slipping on
the spindle. Other types of handles, typically used in Europe, slide onto the spindle but are affixed
only to the door itself without use of set screws.
Types of household handles:

 Entrance: These door handles are typically used on exterior doors, and include keyed cylinders.
 Privacy: Typically used on bedrooms and bathrooms; while they are lockable (unlockable with a
generic tool), they do not have keyed cylinders.
 Passage: Also known as hall or closet, these do not lock and are used in hall or closet doors.
 Dummy: These types are used for ball catch doors or other applications where a mechanism is
not needed, but a similar aesthetic effect is desired.
Cars[edit]
Car door handles may protrude from the vehicle's exterior surface or be streamlined into the
vehicle's contour. In some automobiles, especially luxury vehicles, the door handles may feature a
key-less entry pad utilizing either a numerical code or thumb scan.

Foldables[edit]
On a balcony whose door has an outside shutter, a special door handle is used on the outer side.
The protruding part of such handle (usually ring-shaped) can be folded sideways, so that the shutter
can be fully closed without being obstructed by the door handle.

Pocket doors[edit]

Pocket (recessed) Door handle

A pocket door handle is a recessed rectangular insert, typically with operating hardware called a
door pull.[8]
Door handles can also be called "handle sets". In addition there are door handles that are flush-
mount and require pressing rather than turning or gripping, and there are touch-free, electronic, and
motion-sensor door handles.

Infection control[edit]
Of concern is the fact that door handles are instrumental in the spread of many infections.
[9]
However, some materials, e.g. brass, copperand silver, are slowly poisonous to many germs. The
exact mechanism is not known, but is commonly thought to be via the oligodynamic effect, perhaps
by some other electrostatic effect.[10] Brass and copper, for example, disinfect themselves of
many door handle bacteriawithin eight hours.[11] Other materials such as glass, porcelain, stainless
steel and aluminium do not have this effect. Self-disinfecting door handles are particularly important
in hospitals, but useful in any building.

Outside door handle of a 1998 Lincoln Town Car, featuring digital lock.

Outside door handle of a 1996 Lancia Y, hidden on the B pillar.

 

Inner door panel of a 1998 Lincoln Town Car, featuring a chromed door handle often associated with
luxury cars.

Inner door handle of a 2010 Porsche 911 GT3 RS, consisting of a canvas strap for weight reduction.

Gallery[edit]


Door latch at Madingley Hall, Cambridgeshire

Ornate door handle on a Moravian Church.

 

A door handle in the center of a door in Paris

Head shaped doorknob, Florence

The doorknobs at Glen Eyrie castle in Colorado Springs

Traditional door handles in Korea

A Tulip Schlagedoorknob
 

"Crash bar" handle installed on a glass exterior door

Lever-style door handle

Commercial duty lever door handle

Door handles designed by Ferdinand Kramer, 1925

A door handle in Theatro Circo, Braga, Portugal

 

Knob has crescent-shaped bar which pulls back latchbolt when turned. Version on upper right has a lock; version on upper
left does not. Kwikset uses this shape. Other companies have square or D-shaped bars.

References[edit]
1. Jump up^ "Doorknob". Dictionary.com. Archived from the original on 2008-04-27. Retrieved 2008-
04-28.
2. Jump up^ "Doors". nygate.com. Archived from the original on 2015-02-27. Retrieved 2015-02-28.
3. Jump up^ "6 Classic Doorknobs for Old Houses". Archived from the original on 2015-09-24.
4. Jump up^ Different Types of Door Handles Explained Archived 2016-11-17 at the Wayback Machine.
retrieved November 2016
5. Jump up^ Buying Door Handles – Things You Need To Know Archived 2016-11-16 at the Wayback
Machine. retrieved November 2016
6. Jump up^ Master of Unlocking: The Different Types of Door Handles Archived 2016-11-16 at
the Wayback Machine. retrieved November 2016
7. Jump up^ "Archived copy". Archived from the original on 2015-08-05. Retrieved 2015-08-08.
8. Jump up^ "Repairing Balkiness or Binding of Pocket Doors". www.gsa.gov. Archived from the
original on 2015-09-24.
9. Jump up^ "Infectious diseases". MayoClinic.com. 2011-07-20. Archived from the original on 2009-
04-30. Retrieved 2012-09-24.
10. Jump up^ "Journal of Materials Science: Materials in Medicine, Volume 19, Number 9". SpringerLink.
Retrieved 2012-09-24.
11. Jump up^ "BrassversusStainless Steel". Members.vol.at. Archived from the original on 2012-02-16.
Retrieved 2012-09-24.

External links[edit]
Media related to Door handles at Wikimedia Commons

 Relative merits of copper and brass compared to stainless steel in microorganism hosting in
hospital settings. (Copper industry site.)
 Discussion of bactericidal effects of brass as compared to steel
 Period door knobs explained
Everything You Ever Wanted To Know About
Spindles from Progressive Hardware
BY WILLIAM ZILS ON AUG 2, 2012

A few years ago, a customer called me in a panic. He had a couple of installers working at a Federal building in
Washington D.C. and they had a problem. This call was about several sets of period reproduction knobs and
escutcheons they had manufactured and the installers had been provided with the wrong knob spindles.
Several thousand dollars of hardware and two men were sitting idle. The foundry was on the West Coast; the
installation was on the East Coast.

The problem was the mortise locks had not been examined properly. The knob spindles would not fit into the

lock hubs. A couple of telephone conversations with the factory and the installers on site solved the problem. A

small box of spindles was sent out NEXT DAY AIR, the job was completed. Total cost for the spindles, less

than $100. Total cost for two men doing nothing for two days - you figure it out!

Progressive Hardware offers a complete catalog of products, yet we probably spend more time talking to

customers about what kind of spindle to use than any other topic. So simple but so complicated. I cannot tell

you what knob spindle to use in every lock in the country, but I might be able to help you to know what to look

for in order to purchase the correct spindle.

During the last 100 years or so, lock manufacturers have come up with all sorts of ingenious ways to get a

doorknob to work their mortised lock. Basically, you put a square rod into a square hole and turn the rod; the

latching mechanism retracts and the door can be opened. But it was kind of rough on the fingers trying to turn

that rod, so someone put a knob or a lever on the end.

The next question was how do we keep the knob on the spindle? Each lock factory had their favorite methods.

The simplest was a square hole knob slipping over a square spindle, held in place with a setscrew.

A more complex method was a knob with a setscrew that when driven into the spindle, caused it to expand and

thereby locking the knob in place. Later, as manufacturing methods progressed, the factories learned how to

thread the square spindle rod. This allowed the knobs to also be threaded internally and screwed onto the

spindle, secured in place with one or two setscrews.

So now we have a lock with a square hub, a square spindle that may or may not be threaded and a knob or

lever that may or may not be threaded inside. You probably thought you were finished but it’s not that easy.

The lock manufacturers then learned that if they used a square rod that is 9/32” square (.281”), they could put a

3/8” thread on the four corners. It was easy to put a 3/8” thread inside the doorknobs, so this sounded like a

good idea. Well, it seems that Yale Lock decided to use 3/8” -20 threads per inch for their spindles. Sargent

Lock decided to use 3/8”-16 threads per inch. Lockwood went ahead and made their spindles 3/8”- 18 threads

per inch. Other lock manufacturers picked and choose one of these various threads and of course none of

these are inter-changeable.

To make matters worse, some lock makers thought that a 9/32” square spindle was not strong enough so let’s

use a 5/16”, or 3/8” or even 1/2” square spindle. Of course when you thread these larger spindles you now

have a larger thread size. If you put thread on the corners of a 5/16” square you get 7/16” thread and on a 3/8”

square spindle you’ll end up with 1/2” thread.

To make life more miserable, Yale Lock decided that we were not capable of measuring a 9/32” spindle with a

ruler. After all 9/32” is .281” which is almost .312”, which is 5/16” and how many of those little lines can you

really count on a ruler (Remember that this was a long time ago). So when you looked in an old Yale Lock

catalog, the 9/32” square spindles are actually called 5/16” square.

Mortise locks progressed and it was thought that it would be a great idea if the exterior knob could be locked

and the interior knob would still operate. This was the birth of the swivel spindle.

Some mortise lock makers used two different sized hubs for the knob spindle. This prevented the spindle from

being pushed through; it made the spindle installation self-centering. Typically one hub was 9/32” square and

one was 5/16” square. But not always! One side might be 9/32” or 5/16” square and the other was 3/8” square.

But the threaded portion of the spindle may still maintain the 9/32” square even though the center of the spindle

is 5/16” or 3/8” square.

Along the way someone decided it would be nice if you could have a doorknob only on one side of the door.

Typically the other side might have a sectional handle set. To accomplish that, you would need a two-piece

sectional spindle.

There are as many spindle variations, as there are ideas. In order to identify the correct spindle, consider the

following.
1. There are three basic styles of spindles:

A. Straight spindles—primarily used for passage, non locking entries.

B. Swivel spindles—primarily used on mortise locks, provides a means of attaching two knobs or levers to the

lock.

C. Sectional spindle—provides a means of attaching a knob or lever to one side of a door.

2. The size of the square rod, measured across the flats.

If you don’t have the original spindle to compare to, it will be necessary to measure the lock hub diameter. An

easy way to do this is by using a drill. Find the largest drill that will go into the hub. That’s probably the spindle

size.

Remember, some locks use two different size hubs. You will need to measure both sides of the lock.

At this point it may get a little tricky. The center of a swivel spindle, the part that ends up in the lock hubs, may

be fatter then the spindle ends. You need to establish the spindle size that goes into the knob or lever and also

if the center is bigger.

A. The majority of spindles are 9/32” square

B. A smaller portion are 5/16” square, mostly for levers

C. A very small segment are 3/8” square

D. All the rest

3. Is the spindle threaded and, if so, what thread is it? The vast majority of threaded spindles are 9/32”

square. This means the thread is 3/8” -?? Unknown pitch. To calculate the pitch, you either need a set of pitch

gauges or if your eyes are good enough: a ruler and count the threads in one inch.

By now you should have an idea of the basic spindle you need. We have assumed that the spindle is threaded

or not threaded. But there are also many other variations on how the knob is attached.

Tapped holes—Older style doorknobs did not have any thread in the base of the knob for the setscrew. The

setscrew passed through the knob shank into a threaded hole in the spindle. These spindles may or may not

be threaded and they could be straight or swivel.

Pin holes—Some knobs are pushed over the unthreaded square spindle and then a roll pin is driven into the

knob shank and thru the spindle. The location of the pin hole is now important in placing the knob correctly.

Some of our spindles have pin holes pre-drilled but they may or may not be in the correct location. In this case,

the installer may have to drill his own hole. We also sell knob washers that go around the spindle and under the

knob to take up any play.

Knob pinned to swivel spindle—Only one knob or lever can be pinned in this manner to the spindle. You

need to pass the opposite end of the spindle through the lock body and attach the other knob/lever in some

other manner. The traditional manner is to thread on the other knob and secure with setscrews. Several

manufacturers have come up with some ingenious variations. Usually it involves driving the setscrew into some

sort of depression or groove in the spindle.

Spindle with a stop pin or notch—The pin or notch actually stops the spindle from being inserted further into

the lock hub when both hubs are the same size.

Removable center versus solid center—The method used to increase the size of the spindle center can

vary. Some spindles were actually cast with a larger diameter in the center. This method was expensive and

we instead use a square sleeve that is a press fit over the 9/32” spindle. The diameter of the sleeve is

somewhat less than 3/8” so that it can pass through a 3/8” lock hub. In an emergency this sleeve can be

knocked off if you have a means of holding the spindles and hammering the sleeve off. Important: This works

well if you need a smaller spindle (9/32”) and didn’t bring one.

The other means of building up the center diameter of a spindle is with “Removable Centers.” This is an easy

way to cover several options with one spindle. Use the spindle with two centers, use it with one center or use it

with no centers. This type of center is not as substantial as a press on center but in a pinch it will work fine.

However, be aware that its life cycle will be shorter.

We have talked a lot about swivel spindles. There is one common problem that pops up because it’s often

forgotten. In order for the interior and exterior knobs to work independently, the swivel spindles halves must be

able to swivel. To do this, before installing into the lock, lightly screw both halves together and then back off

one turn. This is very important.

Photos 20-22 show a spindle being inserted into a mortise lock. Be sure that the center of the swivel spindle is

in the center of the lock. Photo 23 shows a typical pair of lock hubs that has been removed from a lock to

illustrate the spindle in its correct position HOW LONG A SPINDLE?? The spindle needs to pass through the

door thickness, through the thickness of whatever trim is in place and still have enough left over to attach a
knob or lever. The easiest answer is to put back the same length you took out. If you don’t have the previous

spindle, then you need to calculate a size. Try to measure the overall thickness of the door and trim together at

the point the spindle passes through the lock.

Add to this size a sufficient length for spindle to attach your knob or lever. In photo 24, the door is 1-3/4” plus

about ¾” of trim. The overall dimension is 2-1/2”. I want the spindle to thread at least 1” into each knob;

therefore I want a spindle at least 4-1/2” long. Since my knobs on this lock are hollow, I don’t need to worry

about the spindle being too long. Some knobs have a blind hole and levers in particular have this issue. In

these cases it may be necessary to be more precise in the length of the spindle or you may have to cut a

portion off.

I’ve often been asked what a locksmith should stock. First, know your customer base. Each town or city seems

to develop around one or two major manufacturers over its life. But be careful, if a customer calls and tells you

he or she has a Sargent mortise lock on their door. Don’t assume the spindle is threaded 3/8-16. It could have

been previously replaced and it could be 3/8-20 threads per inch. As long as the knob and spindle are threaded

the same, the lock really doesn’t care. Remember, it’s still only a square rod turning a square hub.

To help simplify matters, Progressive Hardware sells two spindle kits that will probably cover a majority of the

mortise locks you will service. One kit is for 3/8-20 thread knobs. This is the majority of the country and covers

Arrow, Corbin, Marks, National, Norwalk, Russwin and Yale. This is our Number 20. The other kit is for 3/8-16

and 3/8-18 thread knobs. This is aimed at Lockwood and Sargent knobs plus a few other companies. This is

our kit Number 1618.

The #45-20-RTP Universal Spindle is always a good bet to keep around plus a pair of 20 thread knobs to go

with it. Don’t get hung up on the idea that you have to put 3/8-18 thread knobs on a Lockwood mortise lock.

The lock doesn’t care you only need something to turn the square hub. If the knobs fit the trim and the spindle

works the lock, you’re done!

We have also developed a numbering system that should help you identify and purchase our spindles. In

general:

The first 2 digits indicate if the spindle is Straight (44), swivel (45) or sectional (46).

The next 2 digits indicate the number of threads per inch, 16, 18 or 20.

The last digits indicate some sort of special characteristic.

Therefore a #45-20-P, is a swivel spindle (45), threaded 20 threads per inch (20), with a pin stop (P). A #44-18-

5 is a straight spindle (44), 18 threads per inch (18), 5” long (5).

As a reference, Progressive Hardware has an available Spindle Chart that shows pictures of the majority of the

spindles that we make.

For more information, contact Progressive Hardware at Telephone 631-757-8866, Fax 631-757-8870, e-mail

bill@progressive-hardware.com and online at www.progressive-hardware.com.

MORE HANDLES TECHNICAL GUIDES: WHAT IS SPINDLE,

AND HOW DO I KNOW WHAT KIND I NEED?
18/09/2016 23:24

Architectural
Ironmongery can be a confusing place - filled with different terminology and jargon that
can quickly become confusing. The More Handles Technical guides series of articles
aims to break down confusing industry jargon, and help explain the differences between
similar items where confusion can easily occur. The Spindle is an integral, if often
overlooked, item in architectural ironmongery.
So, what is a spindle? A spindle is a length of square rod or bar, made from metal,
usually steel, which connects two Door Handles or Door Knobs together on either side
of a door.
The spindle locates into the square holes found at the back of a set of door handles or
door knobs. It passes through the follower* (spindle hole) on a tubular latch or mortice
lock. When the levers on a set of door handles set are depressed by hand, or the door
knob is turned, the spindle rotates and operates the latch inside the door. This retracts
the latchbolt (also known as latch tongue), which allows the door to open.
 The modern industry standard
cross-section thickness size of a door handle spindle is 8mm (5/16") square. This size
has become the standard size for modern spindles. It should be noted however;
spindles and followers were not always standardized to 8mm. Before introduction of the
metric system, spindles tended to be manufactured in imperial measure at 19/64",
which translates to 7.6mm. Some pre-20th century locks were even produced with
other varying spindle sizes including 7mm, and occasionally spindles may be found in
even smaller sizes. This can make for some difficulty when trying to replace a spindle,
or replace the Door Handles or Door Knobs on an old latch or lock, as a modern 8mm
spindle will not pass through a smaller-sized follower. To save some frustration when
replacing old door handles, it is always best practice to measure the follower or
spindle on your existing latches, locks and handles.
In addition to the thickness of a door handle spindle, the length of spindles can also
vary. The most common length of spindle supplied with door handles and door knobs is
100mm (4”) which is sufficiently long enough to pass through all standard-thickness
doors, including fire doors, and still have enough length on either side to locate into the
back of the door handles or knobs. Occasionally, an exceptionally thick door will
necessitate a longer spindle than the standard 100mm spindle. For this reason, we
recommend that door thickness should always be checked when replacing door
furniture. Doors which are thicker than 45mm may need a longer spindle. In this
instance, it is possible to buy longer spindles, and cut them down with a hacksaw to the
correct size to suit your purposes. We can supply extra long spindles in several different
sizes and styles.
On occasion, new spindles supplied with door furniture may be initially too long, such as
when used on very thin interior doors. In this instance, it is simply necessary to place
the spindle in a vice, and cut it down with a hacksaw. If undertaking this, measure the
spindle carefully, including the length needed to locate into the rear of the two door
handles. Measuring this correctly will prevent the spindle from being cut too short.
So, does one style of spindle fit all door handles and door knobs? The answer is,
unfortunately not. Whilst the modern industry standard for spindles is 8mm square as
discussed, there is a wide range of types of spindle to suit different door furniture
applications.

Let’s take a look at some of the most commonly encountered types of spindle.

1) Plain Square Spindle

The Plain Square Spindle is used in situations where the item of door furniture is face-
fixed* onto the door. Face-fixing a door handle or door knob to a door transmits the
pulling pressure to the backplate or rose on the door furniture rather than to the
spindle, meaning that no other gripping to the spindle itself is required.

2) Grooved (Slotted) Square Spindle

The Grooved spindle is cut right through at either end, and has a grooved out ‘trough’
surrounding the groove. The purpose of the groove is to accept a grub screw**, which
fits through a threaded hole in the shaft of the door handle or door knob, and locates
into the groove. The grub screw then wedges into the groove and opens up the spindle,
creating a very secure fixing on handles which utilize bolt-through fixings† rather than
face-fixings.
3) Threaded Spindle
The threaded spindle is primarily used on door knobs, especially on rim knob
furniture. The threaded spindle is sometimes threaded at one end with a door knob
fixed permanently to the other end, or more commonly, threaded at both ends, to allow
for maximum adjustment. The threaded spindle provides a very secure fixing for door
knobs, as the knob must be threaded up the spindle for several turns. It also provides a
very adjustable fixing, as it is possible to thread the door knob just far enough up the
spindle on either side. We can supply threaded spindles, however they are available in
a large range of imperial and metric, coarse and fine threads. For this reason, if you
need a threaded spindle, we advise you to contact our experts to discuss your
requirements.

4) Drilled (Tapped) Square Spindle

The Drilled spindle features drilled and threaded holes placed at intervals along the
length of its shaft. The drilled spindle is meant for use with a long grub screw, which
locates into the threaded holes. Whilst providing a very secure fixing right through the
spindle, the spindles’ pre-set drilled intervals makes for pre-set junctures at which the
door handle or knob can be secured, so can make for a slightly less precise fitting
against the door. For this reason, the drilled spindle has been largely forgone in recent
years in favour of the Grooved spindle.
5) Taylor (Dummy) Spindle

The Taylor spindle is used in situation where a ‘Dummy’ handle is required, usually for
pushing/pulling large wardrobe doors with a full size door handle or door knob, or
commonly on a double door set, on the slave door (§). The Taylor Spindle is unique in
that it is the only type of spindle that does not pass through the door. Instead, the
spindle shaft is mounted upon a small circular plate, which is face-fixed onto the door.
The shaft then locates into the back of a door handle or door knob. This fixes the item
in place, stops it from turning, and provides a sturdy push/pull dummy handle. If used
as an independent wardrobe door, either a Magnetic Catch or a Roller Bolt (Ball Catch)
is used, instead of a Tubular Latch.

6) Split Spindle

The Split Spindle is a two-part spindle, joined in the middle, so that the two sides can
rotate independently of one another. Most commonly used with a Night Latch, this type
of spindle creates a system in which the internal handle can be operated as normal, but
the external handle does not operate the latch. This means that only known key-
holders can enter, as the key actually operates the latch from the outside, rather than
the door handles.
Having looked at the above range of spindles available, you may be asking ''How do I
know what type of spindle I need?'' The good news is, all of our door furniture is
supplied with the relevant spindle required, and we can supply locks and latches to suit
all of the spindles we supply, should you need them.
As we discussed above, it is always best practice to measure the follower or
spindle on your existing handles,to save yourself any frustration when replacing old
handles. If you do find the spindle to be smaller than the modern standard of 8mm, you
will most likely need to either replace your latch or lock for a new product, or find a
lever handle or door knob that has a spindle which is smaller than 8mm. At More
 Handles, we carry the most comprehensive range of locks and latches on the web, and
you are very likely be able to find a replacement for your door lock or latch by browsing
our range of locks right here.In addition, we carry several lines of door handles and
door knobs in particular, that are made specifically for older locks and latches, and so
come with a smaller spindle which will fit through old style smaller followers. We carry a
range of period style door knobs which you can view here that all come with a 7mm
spindle to fit old imperial locks, and many items in the From the Anvil range of
products come with a 7.6mm spindle. We also have a very nice collection of wooden
door knobs which you can see here, all with a 7.6mm spindle.
If you have an issue with spindle sizing, or have oddly sized lock followers or spindles,
then please don’t hesitate to contact our experts. We regularly help customers in
both residential and commercial settings with specifying the correct door handles,
spindles and locks or latches to suit their needs, even if that be for very old homes or
buildings with imperial or odd-sized locks. Our latch and lock experts will be happy to
discuss your requirements and talk through this topic with you further.
TEL - 01228 516 516

WEB - morehandles.co.uk
EMAIL - sales@morehandles.co.uk

Annotations:
*Face-fixing: Ordinarily meaning an item which is fixed with wood screws through its
backplate or rose into the face of a door, cupboard, or drawer. The opposite to Rear-
fixing, in which bolts or screws are used to locate through the door into the rear of the
product.
**Grub Screw: A very small threaded screw, usually with a blunt or spiked end, used
primarily within ironmongery on the shaft of a door handle or door knob, to fix the item
to the spindle.
† Bolt Through Fixings: A Male/Female bolt and cap assembly, which typically allows
through-door fixing for extra strength and sturdy fixing. Commonly used on Lever-on-
Rose handles and some door knobs.
§ Slave Door: Part of a set of double doors, the Slave Door is the door that remains
primarily bolted closed and either has no door handle at all, or just a dummy handle.
The term Slave Door is the opposite the Master Door, which is the most used door in
the double door set, and usually features the working door handle or door knob.
TAGS:

 Spindle

 Door

 Handles

 Knobs

 Handle
 workings

 latch

 lock

 follower

 spline

 square

 rod

 bar

 steel

 threaded

 split
 grooved
Posted in Latest News How To Guides Product Information By

REECE RHEINBACH
Interior Door Handle Market: Global Industry Trend
Analysis 2012 to 2017 and Forecast 2017 - 2025

Interior Door Handle Market: Overview

Door handles not only increase the comfort levels but also enhance the styling of the car. This is the
reason why car designers emphasize on feel and look of interior door handles along with the comfort
and safety requirements. The interior door handles play a major role in increasing the safety of the
passengers as well as enriching the interior look of the car. The car designers face a challenge of
integrating the two requirements, that is safety and look into one single entity. Nowadays, extra
components like lock mechanisms, speakers, and ambient lighting control buttons are being
provided along with the door handles, as a part of the assembly, that is in the same housing as the
door handle. Usually, interior door handles are made up of plastic or zinc and coated by powder
coating, chrome plating or painting.
Interior Door Handle Market: Drivers and Restraints
With growing urbanization, the standard of living of the people is also increasing. Now, even the
middle class people are able to afford the luxury. In return for their money, they demand not only
comfort but also the good looks of the product they are buying. These demands of people are likely
to the drive the Interior Door Handle Market because door handles provide not only comfort and
safety but also rich looks. The new trend of incorporating additional components like ambient lighting
control buttons, speakers and lock mechanisms in the same assembly as the door handle is
attracting people to buy vehicles with these features in the door handles. With the growing demand
for automation, now automotive interior door handles are also available in the market. These
automotive interior door handles are likely to push the growth of Interior Door Handle Market further.
Interior Door Handle Market: Market Segmentation
Interior Door Handle Market is segmented into three types based on application type, product type,
and region.
Based on the application type, Interior Door Handle Market is segmented into:-
 Heavy duty commercial vehicles
 Light duty commercial vehicles
 Passenger cars
 Other vehicles
Based on the product type, Interior Door Handle Market is segmented into:-
 Rotating T or L type
 Paddle type
 Push type
 Pull type
 Grab type
Based on the region, Interior Door Handle Market is segmented into:-
 India
 Japan
 Southeast Asia
 China
 Europe
 North America
Interior Door Handle Market: Regional Outlook
Both in terms of sales and production, China as well as United States hold a strong position in the
automotive industry. High sales of automobiles in the China as well as United States region is likely
to boost the demand for interior door handles in these regions. Apart from these countries, the Asia
Pacific region is estimated to be the fast growing market for the interior door handle. Interior Door
Handle Market is expected to be the fastest growing market, by volume with highest CAGR for
Interior Door Handle in the forecast period 2017 to 2021. The reason behind this is that the Asia-
Pacific region is the hub for the production of passenger cars and electric automobiles. The Asia-
Pacific region is gradually being called the automobile manufacturing hub because of the ease of
availability of raw materials and comparatively lower labor costs. Owing to high demand and
significant vehicle production in China, China is estimated to show significant growth trends in the
Interior Door Handle Market.
Interior Door Handle Market: Key Players
Some of the major players of the Interior Door Handle Market are:-
 Mayco International
 Vehicle Access Systems Technology (VAST)
 TriMark Corporation
 HUF Group
 Shivani Locks
 Minda VAST
 Car International
 ITW Automotive Products GmbH
 Hu Shan Auto parts
 Valeo
 Sandhar Technologies
 Aisin Seiki
 Ruian Maohua Automobile Parts
 Magna
 Sakae Riken Kogyo
 Alpha Corporation
 U-Shin
 Kakihara Industries