RNI No: MAHENG/14704
Published on 10th of Every Month
Vol No. 1 Issue No. 9
Interim Budget’s Infra Push And Measures To Boost
Rural Consumption LikelyTo Revive Textile Demand
T
he domestic textile and ap-
parel sector has welcomed
the Interim Budget 2024 pre-
sented by the Union Finance Minister
Nirmala Sitharaman, even as it fails
to meet the expectations in a true
sense. Industry players and ob-
servers believe that some of the
macro-economic initiatives and
measures in terms of government’s
commitment to fiscal consolidation
with a working target of 5.1 per cent
for 2024-25 and hike in capex out-
lay to Rs 11.11 lakh crore leading to
momentum in infrastructure growth
and providing boost to rural con-
sumption through increased focus
on post-harvest activities and rural
housing scheme, will further bolster
the economy and thereby improve
the consumption of household
products, including textiles and ap-
parel in the medium to long term.
It may be noted that in the last
couple of years, the domestic T&A
industry is passing through a chal-
lenging situation owing to declining
demand both in the export and do-
mestic markets. The fall in domestic
consumption of household products
is also attributed to subdued de-
WWW.TEXTILEINSIGHTS.IN
FEBRUARY, 2024 PAGES 32
Higher capital expenditure will drive
broader economic growth while ad-
hering to fiscal prudence. All this will
fuel the growth in economy and
household consumption. This au-
gurs well for the T&A sector as a
whole,” says an industry observer.
“The Interim Budget 2024 an-
nounced by Union finance minister
Nirmala Sitharaman is for the overall
(L-R) Pankaj Chaudhary, Ministers of State for Finance, Nirmala Sitharaman,
Union Minister for Finance and Corporate Affairs and Dr. Bhagwat Kishanrao
Karad, Union Minister of State for Finance at the Parliament House in
New Delhi.
mand condition in rural India, which few years and the required momen-
normally drives the country’s over- tum has been maintained in the In-
all consumption. terim budget
The Interim Budget has main- “Even as there is not much for
tained status quo as far as tax rates the T&A industry on the micro-eco-
are concerned, also taking care of nomic front, the Interim Budget
the ongoing projects and infrastruc- seeks to balance growth with fiscal Ashok Juneja, Director, Sales &
ture development activities, as the prudence. The government’s com- Service, Saurer Textile Solutions
government intends to make India a mitment to a 4.5 per cent fiscal Pvt. Ltd.
developed country by 2047. The deficit by FY26 is indeed commend-
government has been giving prior- able. This augurs well for the overall and continuous development of the
ity for inclusive growth and infra- economic credit creation and for in- country. The budget is all-round, all-
structure development for the past flation and private capex revival. Continued On Page 3
Textile Insights | February 2024
Interim Budget’s Infra Push And Measures To Boost
Rural Consumption LikelyTo Revive Textile Demand
Continued From Page 1
pervasive and all-inclusive, instead
of focusing on any specific sector.
Though there is no significant an-
nouncement for the textile industry
per se, the overall development may
impact the performance of the textile
Industry as well. Ease of doing busi-
ness in addition to having continu-
ous improvement in infrastructure
like middle east corridor, three ded-
icated railway freight corridors re-
sulting in optimising logistics cost
are important highlights in this
budget,” says Ashok Juneja, Direc-
tor, Sales & Service, Saurer Textile
Solutions Pvt. Ltd.
Importantly, the logistics sector
has received a major push in the In-
terim Budget 2024 as the govern-
ment plans to set up three major
economic railway corridors to re-
duce congestion and logistics costs.
These dedicated corridors are ex-
pected to facilitate faster movement
of freight and improve turnaround
times. Together with dedicated
freight corridors, these three eco-
nomic corridor programmes are
likely to accelerate the GDP growth
and reduce logistic costs. These
projects have been identified under
the PM Gati Shakti for enabling
multi-modal connectivity.
Currently, logistics costs ac-
count for approximately 12 per cent
of India's GDP, which hampers its
competitiveness, particularly in the
manufacturing sector, compared
with competing countries. Industry
stakeholders say that by reducing
traffic on transportation routes and
improving the efficiency of freight
transportation, the county can in-
crease its logistical competitive-
ness. This, in turn, would attract
more investment into the manufac-
turing sector, which is currently
fragmented. Any reduction in logis-
tic cost, experts are of the view, will
be a big boon for industry like tex-
tiles, which is struggling to bring
down the cost to competitive levels.
“The Interim Budget is practical,
balanced and progressive. It has ma-
jor focus on infrastructure. Setting
up of three dedicated corridors is a
welcome move. These dedicated
WWW.TEXTILEINSIGHTS.IN
Rajendra Agarwal, Managing
Director, Donear Industries.
corridors are expected to facilitate
faster movement of freight and im-
prove turnaround times and thus
bring down the logistic costs signifi-
cantly. Creation of 20 million homes
in five years for low income group
will boost the economy,” says Rajen-
dra Agarwal, Managing Director,
Donear Industries.
“Fiscal prudence instead of pop-
ulism is a good sign. Expenditure in
infrastructure suggests private in-
vestment to come in. Nothing much
for the textile sector. However, the
cabinet has approved continuation
Updeep Singh, a textile industry
expert.
of Scheme for Rebate of State and
Central Taxes and Levies (RoSCTL)
for export of apparel and made-ups
upto 31 March, 2026, which is a wel-
come step,” states Updeep Singh, a
textile industry expert.
“As an interim budget, it was an-
ticipated that no significant an-
Rahul Mehta, Chief Mentor,
Clothing Manufacturers
Association.
nouncements would be made, and
indeed, there were no surprises.
Nevertheless, the budget provided
essential indicators of the antici-
pated direction for the July budget,
emphasising key areas such as in-
novation, support for start-ups, sus-
tainable development, job creation
and a dedicated focus on women
empowerment and domestic man-
ufacturing, aligning with the overar-
ching theme of 'First Develop India’,
says Rahul Mehta, Chief Mentor,
Clothing Manufacturers Associa-
tion.
Gurudas Aras, Former Director of
A.T.E Group and Strategic Advisor
to ITA Group (Germany), Rabatex
Industries and Piotex Ventures
Gurudas Aras, Former Director
of A.T.E Group and Strategic Advisor
to ITA Group (Germany), Rabatex In-
dustries and Piotex Ventures, says
that there are very few announce-
ments concerning this important
sector. Overall, the increased alloca-
tion of around 27.60 per cent for the
COVER STORY
Ministry of Textiles for the year
2024-25 when compared to the pre-
vious year, is a welcome move. This
allocation will be towards various
schemes including PM MITRA Park,
NITTM, A-TUFS, ISDS, RoTDEP,
RoSCTL, etc, apart from making allo-
cation for Cotton Corporation of In-
dia to exercise MSP operation for
cotton.
“The textile and apparel industry
welcomes the extension of the Re-
bate of State and Central Taxes and
Levies (RoSCTL) scheme for two
years. The continuation of the
RoSCTL was essential for the long-
term trade planning. The scheme
has seen an increased allocation
from Rs 8,404.66 crore to Rs 9,246
crore,” adds Aras.
S. K. Sundararaman, Chairman,
The Southern India Mills’ Associa-
tion (SIMA), has welcomed the in-
terim Union Budget, considering the
Lok Sabha elections to be held
shortly. Sundararaman has hoped
that the demands of the textile in-
dustry relating to the raw material
issues and few other industry de-
mands might be considered in the
full-fledged budget. He welcomed
the overall increased allocation of
around 27.60 per cent for the Min-
S. K. Sundararaman, Chairman,
The Southern India Mills’
Association (SIMA)
istry of Textiles for the year 2024-25.
Sundararaman further wel-
comed the announcement of meas-
ures to encourage green power, in-
cluding bio-manufacturing, roof top
solar, offshore wind, etc., so as to re-
duce the carbon footprint and ap-
Continued On Page 4
3
COVER STORY
Interim Budget’s Infra Push And Measures To Boost
Rural Consumption LikelyTo Revive Textile Demand
Continued from Page 3
preciated the various pro-active ini-
tiatives in the budget to prepare the
country for meeting the sustainabil-
ity goals. He welcomed the continu-
ous efforts made in strengthening
the logistics infrastructure facilities,
aimed at reducing the transaction
costs and thereby increase the
global competitiveness of the manu-
facturing sectors in the country.
Commenting on the interim
Budget, Rakesh Mehra, Chairman,
Confederation of Indian Textile In-
dustry (CITI) says that that there
has not been any major policy an-
nouncement in the present budget,
being an interim budget, but the in-
dustry needs immediate relief from
the financial stress, especially in the
spinning sector.
The budget allocation for textiles
has increased by 27.6 per cent,
largely due to the allocation of Rs
600 crore for CCI towards the cot-
ton MSP operations. Mehra ex-
pressed hope that the cotton pro-
Union Cabinet Extends RoSCTL Scheme For
Apparel And Made-ups Exports Until March 2026
T
he Union Cabinet has granted
approval for the extension of
the scheme for Rebate of State
and Central Taxes and Levies
(RoSCTL) for the export of
apparel/garments and made-ups un-
til March 31, 2026.
This two-year extension aims to
establish a stable policy regime cru-
cial for long-term trade planning, par-
ticularly in the textiles sector where
advanced orders are common for ex-
tended delivery periods.
The RoSCTLcontinuation ensures
predictability and stability in the pol-
icy regime, alleviating the tax burden
and creating a level playing field based
on the principle of "goods are ex-
ported and not domestic taxes."
Initially approved by the Union
Cabinet until March 31, 2020, and
later extended until March 31, 2024,
this further extension until March
31, 2026, enhances the export com-
4 WWW.TEXTILEINSIGHTS.IN
Rakesh Mehra, Chairman,
Confederation of Indian Textile
Industry (CITI)
curement will be as per revamped
policies recommended by user in-
dustry associations to ensure price
stability and discourage speculative
trading. CITI has recommended
commencement of cotton sales
from February/March, depending
upon the arrival pattern, retaining
the MSP procured cotton as a buffer
stock, releasing the cotton when-
petitiveness of the garments and
made-ups sectors. It promotes cost-
competitiveness, aligning with the
zero-rated export principle. How-
ever, it is important to note that
other textile products (excluding
Chapter 61, 62, and 63) not covered
under RoSCTL can still benefit from
the Remission of Duties and Taxes
on Exported Products (RoDTEP)
Textile Insights | February 2024
ever the Indian cotton price exceeds ing for closure of the pending TUFS
the international price, extending a cases at the earliest.
uniform fee period of 60 days for all Mehra has expressed his happi-
actual users, etc. ness towards the focus on stimulat-
Mehra further states that the ap- ing domestic consumption which
parel industry is happy to note the may drive economic expansion and
extension in the RoSCTL scheme for can be good for all manufacturing
two years. However, in the present segments, including textiles, which
budget, the allocation for RoSCTL are facing slump in demand. The
and RoDTEP has increased by 10 per commitment to maintaining a fiscal
cent and 5.8 per cent, respectively, deficit of 5.1 per cent and ensuring
which is modest. The industry is try- fiscal discipline while supporting
ing to enhance export performance economic growth is expected to
and expects better allocations for help.
trade promotion in the full budget to “While in the present budget, the
be announced after the elections. government has not made any
The industry appreciates the in- changes in the existing BCD and indi-
creased allocations towards PM MI- rect taxation, we are extremely sure
TRA and National Technical Textile that in the full budget in July, the
Mission (NTTM) and research and government will consider the indus-
capacity building highlighting the try’s demand to remove the import
emphasis of the government on the duty from cotton and cotton waste
investment. However, the slow up- as also increase the BCD on MMF
take of PLI and an absence of alter- yarn from the present 5 per cent to
natives to the TUFS scheme is im- 10 per cent to curb cheaper imports
pacting investment in the sector. and reduce blockage of working
The industry has also been request- capital,” adds the CITI chief. ❑
market for exports. Therefore, not
only are indirect taxes on inputs re-
bated or reimbursed, but other unre-
funded state and central taxes and
levies are also rebated.
Rebate of state taxes and levies in-
cludes VAT on various components
Photo Credit: Image By vecstock
such as fuel used in transportation,
captive power, farm sector, Mandi tax,
duty of electricity, stamp duty on ex-
port documents and embedded
SGST paid on inputs like pesticides
and fertilizers used in the production of
raw cotton. Rebate of central taxes
along with other products. and levies comprises central excise
The scheme's objective is to com- duty on fuel used in transportation,
pensate for state and central taxes embedded CGST paid on inputs like
and levies, along with the Duty Draw- pesticides and fertilizer used in the
back Scheme, on the export of ap- production of raw cotton, purchases
parel/garments and made-ups from unregistered dealers, inputs for
through rebates. This aligns with the the transport sector and embedded
international principle that taxes and CGST and Compensation Cess on
duties should not be exported, ensur- coal used in the production of
ing a level playing field in the global electricity. ❑
COTTON INSIGHTS
Mexico's Cotton Consumption Faces Challenges
Amidst Global Competition
I
n the 2023-24 season, Mex-
ico's cotton consumption is
anticipated to hit a low of 1.6
million bales, marking the sec-
ond-lowest level in nearly three
decades. This downward trend is
attributed to intense competition
from Chinese textile imports,
macroeconomic factors and re-
duced demand for cotton prod-
ucts from both U.S. and domestic
consumers.
Over the past five years, Mex-
ico's cotton consumption has
steadily declined due to the com-
petitive wages, lower operating
costs and large-scale operations in
Asian countries. The appreciation
of the Mexican peso and higher
manufacturing sector wages has
further eroded Mexico's competi-
tiveness against Asian counter-
parts such as China, Bangladesh
and Vietnam.
The stronger peso, which has
appreciated over 15% compared to
the U.S. dollar since March 2022,
Turning The Wheel: ICRA's Anticipated Surge In
Cotton Demand Creates Buzz In The Industry
I
n a recent research note by ICRA
on the domestic cotton spinning
industry, the rating agency has an-
ticipated a robust 12-14% growth in
demand for FY2024, driven by a
surge of 85-90% in yarn exports.This
upswing is attributed to a shift in
sourcing preferences away from
China and heightened expectations
of increased demand in the US and
EU regions for the upcoming
spring/summer season, influencing
domestic demand from apparel and
home textile manufacturers.
Despite the positive demand out-
look, a significant drop in cotton
prices is expected to lead to a 9-10%
year-on-year decline in revenues, to-
taling approximately Rs 33,465 crore
in FY2024. Jayanta Roy, Senior Vice
President & Group Head, Corporate
Sector Ratings, ICRA, commented,
“Despite increased cotton yarn vol-
6 WWW.TEXTILEINSIGHTS.IN
has impacted the competitiveness
of Mexico's cotton textile and
product exports. Higher domestic
wages are narrowing profit mar-
gins in the supply chain and
prompting employees to seek
higher-paying manufacturing jobs.
Despite the advantages of
proximity to the U.S. and regional
trade agreements like the USMCA,
umes, ICRA foresees a decline in oper-
ating income by 9-10%, and operat-
ing margins are likely to contract by
200-240 bps in FY2024 due to de-
creased realizations and lower gross
contribution levels. Notwithstanding,
newly added in-house power gener-
ation capacities by select players
may alleviate margin pressures in the
medium term.”
Cotton yarn exports, constitut-
ing 25-35% of India's cotton yarn
production, witnessed a trend rever-
sal in FY2024, with overall export
volumes growing by ~142% in 7M
FY2024. The share of exports in the
overall production increased from
19% in FY2023 to ~33% in 7M
FY2024, fueled by increased exports
to China. For the full year FY2024,
ICRA has estimated India’s yarn ex-
ports to surge by ~85-90% on a YoY
basis, with Bangladesh, China and
Mexico's textile industry faces
challenges. The "fibre-forward"
rule under the USMCA, requiring
products to contain member cot-
ton fibre for duty-free entry, has
sustained demand, but most im-
ports are subject to the "yarn-for-
ward" rule.
The weak demand for cotton
lint is evident in the lowest U.S. ex-
Vietnam accounting for ~60% of
these exports.
While domestic cotton prices hit
a lifetime high in H1 FY2023, they
steadily declined in H2 FY2023 and
further dropped by ~25% in the first 9
months of FY2024. The anticipated
decrease in domestic cotton produc-
tion for CY2024, coupled with a weak
operating environment, is expected
to marginally increase cotton prices
from the current levels.
Cotton yarn prices, on a declining
trend since June 2022, are expected
to remain soft for the rest of FY2024
and experience a marginal increase
in FY2025 as downstream demand
picks up. Despite a 19% decline in av-
erage gross contribution margins for
spinners in 9M FY2024, there was a
9% improvement in November 2023.
ICRA expects cotton yarn gross con-
tribution to stabilize in FY2024 over
Textile Insights | February 2024
ports and sales to Mexico in over
20 years. China's higher textile ex-
ports to Mexico, particularly cot-
ton yarn and fabric, have surged,
while U.S. exports have declined
significantly.
Mexican garment manufactur-
ers heavily rely on the U.S. im-
porter demand for cotton prod-
ucts, with recent data indicating a
decline in U.S. imports of Mexico's
cotton products. Higher imports of
cotton products from China and
Bangladesh have also affected the
domestic industry, leading to in-
creased displacement of domesti-
cally produced goods.
Despite the benefits of the
USMCA, Mexico's cotton con-
sumption is nearing its lowest level
in decades. Efforts for
"nearshoring" and reported initia-
tives have not revived demand,
while competitive prices and the
substitution of Chinese synthetic
textiles continue to exert pressure
on consumption. ❑
FY2023 levels.
While spinners' cash accruals are
projected to decline in FY2024, ICRA
anticipates a decrease in borrowings
as well, resulting in an improved cap-
ital structure for companies.The debt
coverage ratios, however, are ex-
pected to weaken in FY2024, reflect-
ing the industry's response to the de-
cline in operating profit.
Roy concluded, “The industry,
having undertaken high debt-funded
capex in FY2022 and FY2023, is ex-
periencing a cautious approach in
FY2024.While capital structure is ex-
pected to improve marginally, ICRA
envisions a slight uptick in capex an-
nouncements for FY2025, driven by
machinery modernization needs, de-
mand influx from the China Plus One
scheme, and improved domestic de-
mand from downstream apparel
companies.” ❑
SUSTAINABILITY INSIGHTS
Innovation- AWay For Sustainability
If we are too afraid of taking risks, we may miss out on opportunities to innovate and grow. By playing it safe and
attempting to insure our finances, we lose our cutting edge.
Murugan Santhanam
An Anecdote
“I think you are making a mess
over there in your mills! It seems you
are wasting your time and money in
the name of innovations, and frankly, I
am not happy about that!”
With these words, my boss fixed
me with an intense gaze over the rim of
his spectacles. While his face re-
mained stoic, his words were sharp
enough to sting like thorns.
The room stayed quiet; the air was
heavy with doubt! I could even hear
the buzzing sound of fluorescent
lamps. I was there to explain my new
proposal to our top management
team.
I cleared my throat and broke the
silence.
"But, Sir, we're not incurring any
losses, as you're aware," I responded
Epson's Dry Fiber Technology To Tackle
Recycling Challenges In Fashion Industry
E
pson, the tech giant, is on a
mission to address the in-
creasing global demand for
recycled fibres by leveraging its rev-
olutionary Dry Fiber technology. In
a significant move towards achiev-
ing this goal, Epson has recently
joined forces with The Hong Kong
Research Institute of Textiles and
Apparel Ltd (HKRITA), a renowned
R&D centre specializing in textile in-
novation.
8 WWW.TEXTILEINSIGHTS.IN
hesitantly.
Off came the reply immediately
from my boss, a little harsher than be-
fore. "Whoa! Who gave you the au-
thority to determine profit? Your re-
turns don't measure up to other mills
in our industry," he growled, raising
his voice.
Despite his initial resistance, he
lent his listening ears to know more
about the proposal. I know he was
very fond of innovations. The appar-
ent anger he displayed during the dis-
cussion with the higher-ups was
merely a façade.
Finally, I got the approval.
The project aimed to meet our
customer's demand for producing
low-density yarns. Specifically, the
customer sought to replace their ex-
isting yarns used in pile fabrics for
Parkas and also for lightweight jeans.
After obtaining approval, a techni-
cal representative from the customer
and our team collaborated to devise
methods for producing the required
low-density yarns.
The customer had experience in
producing such yarns with wool but
lacked knowledge about cotton spin-
ning.
As per our conclusion, we needed
some modifications in our present
core-yarn system. The core yarn sys-
tem supplier was kind enough to
make some modifications to their
software. (It’s worth noting here that
though the machinery supplier
As environmental concerns take
centre stage worldwide, the mo-
mentum for using recycled fibres,
helped us in providing the required
changes in their software, they were
not privy to how those alterations
functioned on the machine due to the
project's classified nature).
The changes in core-yarn attach-
ment, coupled with the use of a spe-
cial front top roller featuring horizontal
grooves at equal intervals, allowed us
to create cotton core spun yarn with
either nylon filament or another cot-
ton yarn as the core.
After these modifications, we suc-
cessfully achieved the desired yarn
density of approximately 0.25 to 0.30
gms/cm3 (D in UT4). Our regular sin-
gle yarns typically had a density of
around 0.6 and could go up to 0.75
with the use of a compact system.
Ultimately, the project was a re-
sounding success, resulting in gar-
ments that were 30% lighter. Profits
saw a substantial increase in the sub-
sequent years, making it a win-win sit-
uation for all stakeholders.
These garments only consumed
30% less material compared to
their counterparts due to the use of
yarns which are around 30% finer
than existing ones but have the
same bulkiness. Also, they boasted
a timeless fashion and durability
that could be passed down through
generations.
In a later financial meeting, my
boss, wearing a smile, remarked,
"Well, it turns out you're making quite
a positive mess!"
especially from discarded clothing,
is gaining traction. In Europe, the
push to elevate the use of recycled
fibres while curbing reliance on syn-
thetic alternatives is particularly ev-
ident.
Traditionally, textile recycling
employs a machine called a garnett,
which proves effective for most ma-
terials. However, it falls short when
it comes to challenging textiles like
tightly woven fabrics used in dress
Textile Insights | February 2024
Innovation is not as scary as we
think:
In today’s competitive dynamic
world, it is not uncommon to have the
following demands from the top man-
agement!
“Bring in breakthrough ideas!”
“What’s your next disruptive sug-
gestion?”
Unfortunately, these are included
in the KPAs of the staff, which makes
them still scarier.
The fear of criticism, uncertainty
and negative impact on one’s career
can paralyze innovation. It is to be
noted that innovation is not just about
finding a new bright idea, but it is also
about being passionate about what
we do and finding ways to do contin-
uous, aggressive improvement on it.
Yes, people must innovate by dis-
covering some new concepts, just as
described above.
Ultimate innovation is achieved
through people in the organization
who push themselves relentlessly to
take the existing products to the next
level. It is a continuous process and
new ideas are to be celebrated and
awarded carefully to nurture the best
practices in an organization.
Either a company may make this
a way of life throughout the organiza-
tion, or just sit and wave at other suc-
cessful competitors, lamenting. ❑
(The author is the Managing
Director of Texdoc Online
Solution Pvt. Ltd.)
shirts and bed sheets, as well as
elastic blended fabrics found in
functional clothing.
Epson aims to tackle this limita-
tion head-on, utilizing its proprietary
Dry Fiber technology to develop a
process for defibrating these hard-
to-recycle fabrics. By partnering
with HKRITA, Epson envisions a
groundbreaking solution that will
revolutionize the recycling of clothing
fibres. ❑
BHARAT TEX INSIGHTS
Revolutionising Global Textile Partnerships: India’s
Sustainable PathwayTo ESG Excellence
As ESG considerations continue to shape business decisions, the ongoing collaboration between international
textile buyers and India's textile sector serves as a beacon of hope, illustrating the potential for industries to
thrive while remaining environmentally conscious and socially responsible.
T
he textile industry, historically
associated with significant en-
vironmental social and gover-
nance (ESG) impact, has undergone
a paradigm shift. The specific timing
of the need for ESG in the Indian textile
industry can be traced back to the
early 2000s when global attention be-
gan focusing more on sustainable and
responsible business practices. How-
ever, the momentum gained consid-
erably in the past decade as aware-
ness about climate change,
environmental degradation and social
issues has significantly increased
worldwide.
It is a matter of pride how India's
textile sector, which is steeped in tradi-
tion and innovation, has responded to
this transformation by adopting and
introducing various initiatives that ad-
dress the need of the hour. Today,
where ESG goals are at the forefront
of business strategies across the
world, international textile buyers are
increasingly recognizing the impor-
tance of sustainable sourcing prac-
tices.India,renowned for its rich textile
heritage, has emerged as a pivotal
hub for global buyers seeking to fulfil
their ESG commitments while engag-
ing in mutually beneficial partner-
ships.
Improved Measures & Practices:
Measures have been taken by the
Indian textile players and the Indian
government to actively promote
these practices across the value
chain. Sustainable farming practices,
regenerative farming, reducing the
use of chemicals, promoting soil
health, use of recycled fabrics, conser-
vation of water through recycling and
investing in renewable energy
sources, energy-efficient technolo-
gies and machinery to achieve the de-
sired outcomes are contributing on a
massive scale towards meeting the
ESG goals of Indian companies and
the government.
The use of eco-friendly dyes and
chemicals has started gaining a lot of
prominence in the Indian textile in-
dustry, which align with the Green
10
Chemistry Practices. Indian textile
manufacturers have invested in inno-
vative technologies and processes
aimed at minimizing the industry's
ecological footprint. By embracing re-
newable energy sources and imple-
menting efficient waste management
systems, these manufacturers not
only cater to buyer demands, but also
contribute positively to the environ-
ment.
Social Responsibility and Ethical
Practices
Indian textile manufacturers and
stakeholders across the value chain
have significantly improved the sus-
tainable livelihood and earnings of the
labour and improved their working
conditions while also emphasising
their skill development.
This makes it imperative for inter-
national buyers who source from In-
dia to benefit from partnerships that
prioritize fair wages, safe working con-
ditions and community welfare pro-
grammes. The implementation of
labour standards aligned with inter-
national norms, coupled with initia-
tives supporting local communities,
underscores India's commitment to
social sustainability. By boosting in-
clusive growth and empowering arti-
sans and workers, the industry con-
tributes to the socio-economic
development of the regions involved.
Transparency and Governance
India's textile sector has made
strides in enhancing transparency by
adopting traceability tools and certi-
fications that provide buyers with vis-
ibility into the entire supply chain.The
Indian government has also intro-
duced various certifications like GOTS
- Global Organic Textile Standard,
which is an official indication of the
textile standards.
Furthermore, adherence to ethical
business practices and compliance
with international standards ensures
good governance with international
partnerships.
Government Initiatives:
The Government of India has in-
troduced several initiatives and poli-
cies aimed at promoting ESG which
brings the practices within the reach
of textile industry. Some notable ini-
tiatives include the Sustainable Ap-
parel Coalition (SAC), Technology
Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS),
SAMARTH Scheme, National Clean
Energy Fund (NCEF),Amended Tech-
nology Upgradation Fund Scheme
(ATUFS),Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD)
Norms, National Policy on Textiles,
Skill Development Initiatives and sev-
eral others.
Additionally, there is a growing
trend among consumers towards
eco-friendly and sustainable prod-
ucts, which is pushing the industry to
adopt more responsible practices.
These initiatives signify the na-
tion’s commitment to promoting sus-
tainable practices, enhancing environ-
mental stewardship, improving social
conditions and promoting good gov-
Textile Insights | February 2024
ernance within the Indian textile in-
dustry.They aim to balance economic
growth with environmental and social
responsibility, driving the industry to-
wards a more sustainable future.
Challenges and Opportunities
Despite commendable progress,
challenges persist. There is crucial
need for continual investment in sus-
tainable technologies, addressing wa-
ter scarcity issues and ensuring wide-
spread adoption of ethical practices
across the industry. However, these
challenges also present opportunities
for innovation, investment and the
evolution of sustainable practices in
the Indian textile sector. These initia-
tives introduced and implemented
across the textile sector of India
demonstrate the nation’s commit-
ment to reducing environmental im-
pact.
As ESG considerations continue
to shape business decisions, the on-
going collaboration between interna-
tional textile buyers and India's textile
sector serves as a beacon of hope, il-
lustrating the potential for industries to
thrive while remaining environmen-
tally conscious and socially responsi-
ble.The convergence of international
buyers' ESG objectives with India's
sustainable initiatives has fostered
collaborative partnerships that tran-
scend traditional buyer-supplier rela-
tionships.
Bridging the Gap with Bharat Tex
2024
As the Indian textile sector weaves
sustainability into its fabric, Bharat
Tex 2024 stands as a beacon for pro-
gressive dialogue facilitating crucial
discussions and transformative col-
laborations.With dedicated pavilions
on sustainability and recycling, the
mega textile event will also host
knowledge sessions and discussions
led by industry experts. With ex-
hibitors showcasing sustainable tex-
tile products, the event will serve as
the gateway for international textile
buyers seeking to forge meaningful al-
liances with India's textile sector. ❑
WWW.TEXTILEINSIGHTS.IN
BHARAT TEX INSIGHTS
India's Textile Industry Set To Weave
Global Success
With a potent blend of centuries-old craftsmanship, technological advancements
and a renewed focus on sustainability, India's textiles are poised to captivate
international markets.
I
ndia’s textile industry is positioned
at the cusp of a transformative
journey and is well-poised to shape
the global textile landscape. With a
rich heritage dating back centuries
and a promising trajectory into the fu-
ture, the industry's evolution prom-
ises innovation, sustainability, trace-
ability and global supply chain
integration.
As the world's largest producer of
cotton, silk and jute and second
largest producer of chemical fibres,
backed by a strong value chain capa-
bility in textiles and garments, India
has cemented its position as a reliable
sourcing base for global brands/retail-
ers. Its diverse textile sector encom-
passes everything from traditional
handlooms to modern, technologi-
cally advanced manufacturing units
across all key segments, including tex-
tiles, apparel, home textiles and tech-
nical textiles. However, the true
essence of India's textile industry lies
in its ability to seamlessly blend sus-
tainable fibres and tradition with inno-
vation to attract global players across
various segments from luxury to
mass market products.
Looking ahead, the Indian textile
industry is set to undergo a paradigm
shift. Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s
visionary 5F framework—Farm to Fi-
bre to Factory to Fashion to Foreign—
is the roadmap guiding this evolution.
This holistic approach emphasizes
the integration of every stage of pro-
duction,from cultivating raw materials
to presenting finished products on a
global platform.The 'Factory to Fash-
ion' facet emphasizes modernizing
12
manufacturing processes and lever-
aging technology for efficiency and
quality. Innovation and skill develop-
ment play pivotal roles in catapulting
Indian textiles onto the global fashion
scene.
India vs World
The Indian textile industry is gear-
ing up to deliver a formidable chal-
lenge on the global stage in the years
to come. With a potent blend of cen-
turies-old craftsmanship, technologi-
cal advancements and a renewed fo-
cus on sustainability, India's textiles
are poised to captivate international
markets. Its commitment to sustain-
ability, coupled with its diverse prod-
uct range, positions the country
favourably amidst evolving consumer
preferences worldwide. Indian textiles
are increasingly being recognized for
their uniqueness, quality, craftsman-
ship and ethically sourced raw materi-
als, carving a niche in international
markets.
Furthermore, the integration of
digital technologies like AI, IoT and
blockchain is set to revolutionize the
industry, enhancing transparency,
supply chain efficiency and customer
experiences.
Government Support
This USD 154 billion industry is
one of the largest workforce employers
in India and contributes 2.3% of the
country’s Gross Domestic Product
(GDP). In recent years, the Indian gov-
ernment has introduced several
schemes to bolster the growth of the
Indian textiles industry such as the
Textile Insights | February 2024
Publisher
Arvind B Semllani*
Strategic Advisor
Sureshkumar J Vibhaker
CEO
Dewang Shah
Managing Editor
Prakash Patil
Image credit: by vecstock on Freepik
Associate Editor
Henry Dsouza
Asst. Editor
Haimanti Gupta
Special Correspondent
Production Linked Incentive (PLI)
Neeraj Mathuria
scheme, National Technical Textiles
Mission (NTTM) and SAMARTH
Operations
Scheme that aim to enhance manu-
Hemal Semlani
facturing competitiveness, create em-
operations@textileinsights.in
ployment opportunities and promote
sustainable practices across the value
Editorial/Press Releases
chain.
editor@textileinsights.in
The Indian government's support
editorial.textileinsights@gmail.com
through initiatives like the Amended
Technology Upgradation Fund
Advertisements
Scheme (ATUFS), the Scheme for In-
arvind@textileinsights.in
tegrated Textile Parks (SITP) and the
advt.textileinsights@gmail.com
launch of Pradhan Mantri Mega Inte-
grated Textile Region and Apparel
Registered Office
Parks (PM MITRA Parks) have en-
ABS Media and Events
couraged investments in infrastruc-
B-21 Gnat Vikrant CHS,17
ture, technology and skill develop-
Poddar Street,
ment. These initiatives aim to fortify
Opp Surya Hospital,
the entire textile value chain, from fi-
Santacruz (W),
bre to fashion.
Mumbai 400054.
Additionally, the NTTM seeks to
Ph: 9833977743/ 8356862511
position India as a global leader in
technical textiles, opening up new av- * Responsible for selection of news
enues and applications across sec- under PRB Act. Publishers regret that
tors like automobiles, infrastructure, they cannot accept liability for errors &
omissions contained in this publication,
logistics, healthcare and agriculture, howsoever caused. The opinion & views
among others. contained in this publication are not
necessarily those of the publisher.
Government initiatives and cam-
Readers are advised to seek specialist
paigns like ‘Vocal for Local’, ‘Atmanirb- advice before acting on the information
har Bharat’ and ‘Make in India Make contained in the publication which is
provided for general use & may not be
for the World’ have empowered the appropriate for the readers’ particular
MSMEs to scale up their potential, circumstances.
driving the growth of the Industry.
Printed, Published and Owned
by Arvindraj Babulal Semlani and
Stage Set For India To Be Global printed at Mangal Paper Mart,
Unit No. D-3, Akruli Industrial Estate,
Textile Hub
Akurli Road, Kandivali (East), Mumbai -
In addition to the above initiatives, 400101 and published at B-21 Gnat
a consortium of 11 Export Promotion Vikrant CHS, 17 Poddar Street,
Opp Surya Hospital, Santacruz (W),
Councils (EPCs) supported by the Mumbai 400054.
Ministry of Textiles will be organising
Continued On Page 14 Editor: Arvindraj B Semlani
WWW.TEXTILEINSIGHTS.IN
BHARAT TEX INSIGHTS Textile Insights | February 2024

Birla Cellulose: Pioneering Sustainable Textiles Globally

I
n a testament to their unwavering commit-
ment to the global textile industry and sus-
tainability initiatives, Birla Cellulose is de-
lighted to announce their participation in
Bharat Tex, to be held in New Delhi from Febru-
ary 26-29, 2024, at Bharat Mandapam. This
participation underscores Birla Cellulose's
dedication to fostering innovation, collabora-
tion, and sustainable practices within the tex-
tile sector. They continue to play a leading role
in shaping the discourse and direction for the
future of the textile industry.
Birla Cellulose leads the way in sustainable
manufacturing of man-made cellulosic fibers,
deriving its materials from renewable sources
in responsibly managed forests. This aligns
seamlessly with the emphasis on sustainabil-
ity and eco-friendly practices.
Over the years Birla Cellulose has worked
diligently on finding sustainable solutions and
crafting innovative fibres - among them being
the recent introduction of Birla EcoSoft, a rev-
olutionary bamboo viscose fibre. Sourced
from sustainably managed forests, Birla
EcoSoft stands out for its exceptional breatha-
bility, moisture management and higher dura-
bility as compared to generic viscose, setting
new standards for comfort in the fashion in-
dustry. This intelligent addition to their roster
reflects Birla Cellulose’s commitment to pro-
viding consumers with the trust and assur-
ance they deserve in an era where trans-
parency is paramount.
Furthering their strides in sustainability,
Birla Cellulose introduces a groundbreaking
Circular Yarn Blend, made from recycled me-
chanical textile waste using state of the art
technology. What makes this product unique
is their ability to reach a remarkable 50% me-
chanical recycled fiber content, while still
maintaining high-strength yarn for diverse
fabric and garment production. The chemical-
free, energy-efficient mechanical recycling
process addresses environmental concerns,
boasting minimal energy consumption, eco-
friendliness, lowest greenhouse gas emis-
sions, and reduced water usage. Additionally,
in-situ coloration eliminates the need for ex-
tra dyes or pigments, further reducing the en-
vironmental footprint.
Furthermore, the company has success-
fully commissioned a Carbon-disulphide Ad-
sorption plant at Kharach Gujarat, that em-
ploys closed loop technologies to mitigate
carbon disulphide and hydrogen sulfide emis-
sions. The objective of achieving a 90-95% re-
covery rate for sulfur was promptly met, earn-
ing them the coveted EU BAT status for their
Karach plant.
Having achieved the #1 position in
Canopy's Hot Button Report 2023 for its sus-
tainable forestry practices and innovative solu-
tions, Birla Cellulose has maintained the pres-
tigious 'Dark Green Shirt' rating for four
consecutive years, thus consistently demon-
strating its commitment to high-quality eco-
friendly fashion.
In addition to these recent advancements,
Livaeco by Birla Cellulose has found accept-
ance all around the globe owing to its sustain-
able credentials. These fibres contain a
unique molecular tracer which helps in source
verification across the value chain. A com-
plete information on the journey of fibre from
forest to fashion is available through a unique
QR Code which can be made available to the
consumer conveniently. Their blockchain
technology-based tool – GreenTrackTM is
used to trace upward and downward value
chain.
Birla Cellulose aims to display these
groundbreaking solutions, reinforcing its rep-
utation as a leader in sustainable textile pro-
duction at Bharat Tex. With its unwavering
dedication to sustainability and a track record
of excellence, Birla Cellulose anticipates mak-
ing a significant impact and beyond, ready to
unveil their latest developments at Booth
Number H1G: 003, Hall No 1, situated on the
Ground Floor.
“ We at Birla Cellulose are deeply enthused
about our involvement in Bharat Tex. We look
forward to engaging with industry leaders, ex-
changing ideas, and forging partnerships that
will shape the future of textiles." - ManMohan
SIngh - CMO, Birla Cellulose. ❑

India's Textile Industry Set To Weave Global...

Continued from Page 12
Bharat Tex 2024 - the largest global
textile event to be held from 26–29
February, 2024, in the newly launched
venues of Bharat Mandapam and
Yashobhoomi, New Delhi. This mega
textile event functions as a blueprint,
ensuring that every aspect of the tex-
tile value chain is represented with
emphasis on global quality and stan-
dards. By embracing transformative
technologies, sustainability and skill
development, the stage is set for In-
dia to become the leading global textile
hub. The amalgamation of tradition
with innovation and the focus on cir-
cularity and sustainability will not only
shape the future of Indian textiles but
also carve a distinctive global identity,
resonating with the world's evolving
preferences.
India continues to harness its
strengths in raw material cultivation,
manufacturing and design backed by
government initiatives and a commit-
ment to skill development, the trajec-
tory for the textile sector appears ex-
ceptionally promising. The conver-
gence of tradition and technology is
poised to elevate India as a global tex-
tile manufacturing hub. The journey
from yarn to yardage is promising and
India's textile saga is poised to capti-
vate the world with its vibrant threads
of tradition, innovation and sustain-
ability. ❑

14 WWW.TEXTILEINSIGHTS.IN
EXCLUSIVE TETE-E-TETE
Kiran Hanchate
Vice President—Spinning Machinery & Zonal Head - West, Textile Engineering Group - Spinning
A.T.E Enterprises Pvt. Ltd.
‘There Is An Urgent Need To
Create Sustainable Yarn To
Address Global Warming’
Indian textile spinning has modern machineries and very good work
practices to produce good quality cost-effective high-quality yarn, says
Kiran Hanchate, in conversation with Henry Dsouza, the Associate
Editor of Textile Insights.
How has technology in the spinning industry
evolved over two decades and what kind of im-
pact did it have on productivity and quality?
Over the past 25 years, technology in the spin-
ning industry has significantly improved produc-
tivity and quality. The latest generation machinery
right from blowroom to winders are equipped with
high technology engineering, demands less main-
tenance intervals and few breakdowns, AI for prob-
lem-solving and data base management, automa-
18
tion has led to high production with less HOK.
Better feeding and control system right from
blowroom like the Trützschler advanced conti-
feed system, the high precision servo drives, ad-
vanced sensor for auto levelling system in cards
and draw frames, T-Go the Trützschler auto-
matic cylinder to flat tops setting, the Magnatop
in Trützschler cards, twin drive and piecing op-
timizers contribute to high quality sliver which
helps to produce high quality and consistent
Textile Insights | February 2024
yarn with higher production.
What are some of the common challenges
faced by the spinning industry, particularly in
recent times, and how is the industry address-
ing these challenges?
The spinning industry faces challenges like un-
predictable yarn demand and higher yarn costs
due to raw material price fluctuations. In recent
times the US and Europe's recession has im-
pacted Indian yarn exports and the low yarn de-
mand with high raw material cost has impacted
the profitability of spinners. Import of synthetic
fabrics at low cost from Bangladesh and China has
impact domestic synthetic industry.
How does the selection and sourcing of cotton
impact the spinning industry, considering fac-
tors like quality, count and market focus?
India is the second largest cotton growing
country and spinners in India have wide varieties of
cotton to choose, depending on count, yarn quality,
mill location, machinery setup in their mill and the
product position and quality and count to be pro-
duced.
Average data of last 10 years of cotton cultiva-
tions is 12.5 mn hectares with average output of
35 mn bales. But many things changed in the in-
dustry in the last 10 years. The spindleage, produc-
tion, demand fluctuations, climate change, de-
mand for other commercial crops, change in
international cotton prices, circular economy, sus-
tainability and recycled products in demand, gar-
ment product cycle and fashion changes do im-
pact yarn price and are hence decisive factors for
cotton sourcing.
How has the global cotton market affected the
spinning and cotton industry in India, particu-
larly concerning cost, innovation and market
reach?
India's yarn industry faces challenges due to a
lack of integrated value changes with changes in
fashion and demand globally. The dispersed tex-
tile industry with spinning, weaving and processing
mills and cotton grown in different states leads to
reduced efficiency with higher costs. We also lack
FTA trade agreements with global purchasing
countries and strong government polices to
achieve higher market share in global trade. India
must streamline its cotton to garment supply
chain, leverage spinning expertise and establish
robust garment manufacturing capabilities.
How are changing market trends, such as the
demand for sustainable and eco-friendly prod-
ucts, influencing the cotton and spinning in-
dustries?
Sustainability is crucial in the textile industry
to reduce landfill. More than the demand for sus-
tainable yarn there is an urgent need to create sus-
tainable yarn to address global warming. Handling
post-consumer wastes like segregation of cotton,
Continued On Page 20
WWW.TEXTILEINSIGHTS.IN
TECHNOLOGY INSIGHTS
Hemant Apastamb
Vice President – Operations, A.T.E Enterprises Pvt. Ltd. (Business Unit: TeraSpin)
TeraSpin Adopts ‘Lean
Manufacturing’On
Spindle Insert
Assembly Line
I
n October 2023, TeraSpin, a
manufacturer of spinning
drafting components inaugu-
‘There Is An Urgent Need To Create Sustainable
Yarn To Address Global Warming’
Continued From Page 18
blends, garment accessories like
hooks, button, zips, etc. demands
high manpower and large space to
handle. Apart from this, fibre gener-
ated from post-consumer waste are
challenged to produce good quality
yarn for spinners due to short fibres
and limited length of fibres. While
yarn buyer expects quality at par
with virgin cotton, spinners have a
huge challenge to meet the quality.
More organic cotton should be
grown as it is very much sustainable,
but its higher cost and lower yields
need to be addressed.
Consumer awareness and educa-
tion, particularly among the younger
generation, will increase the demand
for sustainable products. Collabora-
tion among consumers, manufactur-
ers and policy makers is needed for
an eco-friendly textile sector.
20
rated its lean manufacturing line,
a spindle inserts assembly line,
which completely follows princi-
Considering the factors of tech-
nology advancement, market
shifts and substantial require-
ments, how do you envision the
future of the textile spinning
and cotton industry?
The Indian textile spinning has
modern machineries and very
good work practices to produce
good quality cost-effective high-
quality yarn. Currently, Indian yarn
has share of 35% in global yarn
market, while it is less than 5% in
global clothing. Finally, its the gar-
ments that are consumed by cus-
tomers. Apart from current yarn
exports, India should increase the
share in global clothing to increase
the demand for yarn further. Cot-
ton is India’s strength and should
be leveraged from yarn to gar-
ments.
ples of ‘Lean Manufacturing’.
TeraSpin, a business unit of A.T.E
Group, is into manufacturing of
spinning drafting components
like top arm, top roller and spin-
dles and supplies these compo-
nents to OEMs as well as in after-
market, sales in India and several
other countries.
Lean manufacturing focuses
on 7 wastes:
Transportation, Inventory,
Motion, Waiting, Over-process-
ing, Over-production and De-
fects. Also, it focuses on 8th
waste, which is termed as ‘Un-
used Human Potential’. The bene-
fits of lean production for
TeraSpin are – Reduction in
transportation by 66% and In-
ventory reduction by 80 %
“The material flow also fol-
lows the ‘Just in Time’ principle,
which has also resulted in im-
proved efficiency of the opera-
tions. The efficiency of the man-
ufacturing line has also improved
by 10%, while the rejection per-
centage of overall production is
less than 0.5%,” Mr Hemant
Apastamb, Vice President – Op-
erations, at TeraSpin said.
Could you please elaborate on
A.T.E Group's commitment to sus-
tainability and its various initia-
tives within the textile industry?
A.T.E Group has always been a
textile industry pioneer in embracing
technological advancements and
promoting sustainability across var-
ious dimensions.
Trützschler Group has partnered
with Balkan Textile Machinery, spe-
cialising in fabric opening and cut-
ting machinery for recycling, to offer
customers additional sustainability
solutions.
A.T.E is committed to sustainabil-
ity in the textile supply chain from fi-
bre to garment, and it actively ex-
plores sustainable practices in fabric
forming and processing. Our dedi-
cated ETP division focuses on zero-
discharge water treatment, empha-
sizing sustainable water
Textile Insights | February 2024
“The main goal of lean manu-
facturing is optimisation of re-
sources which include manpower,
materials, and machines. “It also
works on the principle of every-
thing being in the right numbers
or optimum, neither excessive
nor less than required,” Mr Apas-
tamb explained.
According to Mr Apastamb,
the costs of implementing Lean
principle compared to the bene-
fits or savings is very negligible.
“We gave our manpower more
importance than the other re-
sources while we were in the
stage of implementing Lean man-
ufacturing. Lean manufacturing
was a big change for our man-
power, as adapting them to the
change was the most important
factor as it created a sense of
ownership among our operators,”
he stated.
TeraSpin is supplying its com-
ponents to OEMs like LMW and
recently started working with Ri-
eter India and Marzoli and is also
exporting to around 23 countries
like Bangladesh, Indonesia,
Turkey, Uzbekistan, and South
Africa being their key export mar-
kets. ❑
management.
We promote solar energy sys-
tems as part of our sustainability ef-
forts, offering solutions that not only
harness renewable energy but also
reduce carbon footprints.
We offer IoT systems that pro-
vide utility data to customers, en-
abling them to control their utilities
more efficiently and reduce power
consumption, thus contributing to
sustainability goals.
Our HMX division specializes in
comfort cooling, utilising fresh air to
enhance comfort and promote sus-
tainable practices within depart-
ments.
In principle, A.T.E Group is dedi-
cated to sustainability in the textile
industry, focusing on air quality, water
management, renewable energy, IoT-
enabled utility control and innovative
cooling solutions. ❑
WWW.TEXTILEINSIGHTS.IN
EXCLUSIVE TETE-E-TETE
Jayanta Sanyal
Head of Technical Sales and Processes - Textile industry
WEKO - Weitmann & Konrad GmbH & Co. KG
‘Sustainability Is The KeyTo The
Trend In Textile Business’
WEKO’s main target is to reduce the use of the resources, which results in
potential reduction of emission/consumption and waste generation, says
Jayanta Sanyal
How do WEKO's products strike a balance be-
tween sustainability and cost savings in the tex-
tile manufacturing process?
WEKO’s revolutionary non-contact rotary atom-
iser spray application works on the principle of exact
precise minimal application. The main targets are
to reduce usage of water, reduce use of chemicals
and their wastage, reduce drying energy, reduce
material wastage and increase operational safety.
In textile value chain, each process consumes
different resources resulting in emissions/con-
sumption/waste generation.
As stated earlier, WEKO’s main target is to re-
duce the use of the resources (water, chemicals, en-
22
ergy etc.), which results in potential reduction of
emission/consumption and waste generation.
Depending on specific process of dyeing as well
as finishing, the extent of saving is different. This
can vary between 35% up to 80% in terms of dif-
ferent resources. So, focusing on sustainability di-
rectly helps the manufacturer to save the expenses
of production and that’s the balance.
India is emerging as a key market. How does
WEKO anticipate the demand for its products
evolving in the Indian textile industry?
India is definitely emerging as a key market not
only for sales but also for manufacturing. Govern-
Textile Insights | February 2024
ment of India’s different initiatives clearly reflect this
constructive aggressive intention. Make in India,
SAMARTH, ATUFS, PM MITRA, PLI Schemes, Na-
tional Technical Textile Missions, etc. are well-known
now-a-days. Even though WEKO is active in various
industry sectors since last 70 years, only in textile,
nonwoven, technical textile industries we are antic-
ipating a sharp increase in demand of WEKO and
Rota Spray’s minimal application technology. We
can clearly visualise the increase in the turnover in
2023 compared to previous three years and we
have already had a number of serious discussions
from different sectors of textile and nonwoven in-
dustries at the beginning of 2024.
WEKO is listed in Annex III of Indicative List of
Machinery Manufacturers under ATUFS of Ministry
of Textiles, Office of the Textile Commissioner, Mum-
bai, and the textile mills can take the benefit from
this while investing in WEKO.
Are there specific challenges that WEKO's prod-
ucts address to make Indian textile manufactur-
ers more competitive?
In the textile supply chain, there are always chal-
lenges and these challenges are increasing mani-
fold for the Indian market.The main challenge is the
dramatic increase in textile fabric as well as garment
manufacturing in different countries in S-E Asia.The
increase in volume of manufacturing is therefore
forcing the manufacturers to reduce sales price to
sustain in the price competition. One dollar saved
is one dollar earned. WEKO’s different products of
fluid and powder applications are focusing on savings
to help manufacturers to sustain in the more and
more competitive market.
Considering the evolving landscape, what trends
do you foresee in the textile industry, and how
is WEKO adapting to these changes?
Sustainability is the key to the trend in textile
business. While selecting the vendors, the brands
and the retailers are focusing very deeply on the ini-
tiatives that the manufacturers have already
adopted or are willing to adopt in their manufactur-
ing processes to achieve the sustainability goal. It’s
a process of continual improvement and adaptation
of sustainable processes. Depending on specific
process,WEKO is continuously adapting to develop,
implement and provide specific solution which not
only brings sustainability in processes with improve-
ment of product quality and consistency as per the
requirement of the brands and retailers, but also in-
crease profitability of the manufacturer. As a Ger-
man company, WEKO is continuously working to-
gether with universities, chemical companies, other
machinery manufacturers, brands and retailers and
also with the digital and print media of textiles to un-
derstand, develop and implement the most effec-
tive solutions.
As a result of that, our PS2 process is becoming
more and more popular for cotton fabric dyeing with
reactive and vat dyes where the manufacturers can
successfully withdraw the huge drying unit in
Continued on Page 26
WWW.TEXTILEINSIGHTS.IN
EXCLUSIVE TETE-E-TETE Textile Insights | February 2024

cycling paves the way for recycling. Our mission is to

spotlight upcycling's potential, an underdog in the
sustainable fashion narrative.

Your journey from surface ornamentation for es-

tablished brands to founding Bunko Junko is in-
triguing. What inspired this transition and how
does environmental sustainability play a role in
your brand's ethos?
Bunko Junko was born out of my passion for en-
vironmental sustainability and women's empower-
ment. I have been in the fashion industry for over 34
years, exclusively working with women since the
1990s.
In 2009, I embarked on my own journey, offering
white-label services encompassing design, produc-
tion and packaging for various brands, both big and
small. I earned recognition as "Bhavini Behan" for
my Desi work, collaborating with notable names like
Shopper Stops, Anita Dongre, Vira Enterprise, Eth-
nicity, Maya Group of Companies, and Karishma
Group.
As my career progressed, I encountered textile
scraps,prompting me to explore creative ways to re-
purpose them. We began crafting products from
scrap garment materials, and to our delight, people
embraced our work at exhibits. Further research re-
vealed the alarming environmental impact of the tex-
tile industry,motivating me to take action.While tex-
Bhavini Parikh tile upcycling may not yield significant financial
Founder & CEO, Bunko Junko returns at the moment,my commitment lies in mak-
ing a positive impact rather than monetary gain. I
firmly believe that hard work will eventually bring fi-

Bunko Junko: Crafting Wearable nancial success,and my primary goal is to contribute

to a sustainable future.

Art & Empowering Women With The name "Bunko Junko" has a unique ring to it.
How did you come up with this distinctive
moniker, and what does it symbolize for your up-

Textile Scraps! cycling brand?

While discussing potential names with my
daughter during an evening walk, she suggested
Bhavini Parikh, the visionary Founder & CEO of Bunko Junko, candidly "Junk" since we were re-purposing materials, but it
shares the inspiring story behind her transition from surface didn't quite resonate with us.Cleverly,she combined
"Junk" with her name initial "J," resulting in "Junko."
ornamentation to becoming a trailblazer in the world of textile upcycling
Recognizing the need for a personal touch, I incor-
in this captivating conversation with Henry Dsouza, Associate Editor of porated my initial "B," giving birth to the name
Textile Insights. Parikh unravels the intricate threads of sustainability, "Bunko Junko." The name pays homage to my initial
women's empowerment, and the transformative journey that defines (B) and my daughter, Capt.Jill (J).
Bunko Junko's commitment to environmental responsibility. Bunko Junko, a brand conceived during a simple
walk,embodies the Japanese concept of 'art decora-
Let's dive into the heart of upcycling, a concept of- stages does the material typically move towards tion creation,' seamlessly transforming discarded
ten overlooked in the shadow of recycling. Can recycling. materials into beautiful wearable art—a testament
you shed light on the significance of upcycling in At Bunko Junko,our primary focus is on pre-con- to turning wastefulness into green resources.
the circular economy, especially your focus on sumer textile upcycling. Many fabrics and garments
pre-consumer textile upcycling? are rejected during quality checks,even due to small How does Bunko Junko minimize the fashion in-
Upcycling takes precedence in the circular stitching errors or misprints.This results in numerous dustry's carbon footprint and landfill impact
process, coming before recycling. There are two scraps, which we creatively transform into different through textile scraps repurposing?
types of upcycling: pre-consumer and post-con- garments or home furnishing accessories.We oper- Bunko Junko plays a significant role in reducing
sumer. Pre-consumer involves utilizing scraps, ate with a zero-waste approach, converting any re- the fashion industry's carbon footprint and minimiz-
side cuts, misprints or defective fabrics rejected maining material into seed paper—used for 'Thank ing landfill impact by repurposing textile scraps. In-
during quality checks. Post-consumer upcycling You' cards or story pages that can grow into plants stead of contributing to landfills, we creatively trans-
occurs after garment use, involving reselling or when discarded. form these scraps into various products, such as
repurposing the same garment. Only after these It's about creating a circular process where up- Continued on Page 28

24 WWW.TEXTILEINSIGHTS.IN
MARKET INSIGHTS
Bangladesh's RMG Export Journey: A Saga Of
Resilience Amid Global Challenges
I
n the dynamic landscape of global
trade, Bangladesh's Ready Made
Garment (RMG) sector has dis-
played commendable resilience and
adaptability, as reflected in the per-
formance data spanning from 2018 to
2023.
In 2023, Bangladesh's RMG ex-
ports surged to an impressive US$
47.39 billion, marking a 3.67% growth
compared to the preceding year.This
robust performance caps a six-year
journey that commenced in 2018
when the export value stood at US$
32.93 billion, boasting a remarkable
year-over-year growth of 12.71%.
However, the subsequent years
were not without challenges. In 2019,
the industry saw a modest 0.44%
growth, reaching US$ 33.07 billion.
The tumultuous year of 2020 wit-
nessed a significant dip of 16.94%, at-
tributed to the global upheaval
caused by the Covid-19 pandemic,
bringing the export figure down to
US$ 27.47 billion.
The resilience of the RMG sector
became apparent in 2021, with a no-
table rebound of 30.36%, surpassing
pre-pandemic export levels and
reaching US$ 35.81 billion. The up-
ward trajectory continued into 2022,
with a substantial year-over-year
growth of 27.64%, culminating in an
export value of US$ 45.71 billion. De-
spite a challenging 2023, the industry
retained a positive growth of 3.67%,
underscoring its robustness in the
face of global uncertainties.
Navigating Challenges in 2023
The year 2023 brought unique
challenges, as a global reduction in
‘Sustainability Is The Key To The Trend In...
Continued from Page 22
conventional PDPS process and can
save almost 1400 tonnes of CO2 per
machine per year.
Understanding these require-
ments, WEKO developed different
processes as well as application
systems like WEKO Sigma, WEKO
ProTec, WEKO Neo and Rota Dyer
Twin.
26
imports impacted major markets,
particularly the European Union (EU)
and the USA. The monthly statistics
of EU and USA clothing imports re-
flected a broader trend influenced by
supply chain disruptions, geopolitical
tensions and the persistent pan-
demic. Amidst this global downturn,
Bangladesh's RMG sector demon-
strated resilience by maintaining pos-
itive growth. It is noteworthy that the
sector not only weathered the storm
but also succeeded in navigating a
3.67% year-on-year growth, achieving
an export turnover of US$ 47.39 bil-
lion.
Global Market Dynamics and Chal-
lenges
The global trading scenario,
marred by a depressed market, is evi-
dent in the monthly import perform-
ance of major markets. Particularly af-
fected were the EU and the USA,
showcasing declines similar to major
clothing exporters such as China,
Turkey,Vietnam and India.
Are there new innovations or devel-
opments in WEKO's pipeline that
align with upcoming trends in the
textile sector?
There are number of innovation
and development projects in WEKO’s
pipeline.We first develop the process
and then we go for application devel-
opments.
There are two steps: 1) Technolog-
ical study, 2) Lab tested and ready for
The anticipated decline in global
apparel trading, to be confirmed by
the WTO in August, underscores the
collective challenges faced by the in-
dustry. Against this backdrop,
Bangladesh's RMG sector's ability to
maintain positive growth is a testa-
ment to the dedication and perform-
ance of industry entrepreneurs.
Country-wise Export Performance
in 2023
Despite challenges, Bangladesh's
RMG export to the European Union
(EU) showed resilience, albeit with a
meagre growth of 1.49% in 2023
compared to the substantial 28.49%
growth in 2022. The export to the EU
reached US$ 23.38 billion, with Ger-
many experiencing a notable decline.
However, positive performances in
Denmark, France, Italy, Spain and the
Netherlands contributed to maintain-
ing overall growth in the EU region.
The USA, as the largest export
destination, witnessed a decline of
8.68% in 2023, totaling US$ 8.27 bil-
market.
Presently, we are working on dif-
ferent projects, such as:
● Near infra-red (NIR) drying using
renewable energy
● Polyester disperse continuous
dyeing with Spray-Dry-Cure
process which will save more
than 80% of water and produc-
tion time and lots of energy to
run the conventional jet dyeing
Textile Insights | February 2024
lion, compared to the US$ 9.06 billion
in 2022. In contrast, the UK, the third-
largest destination, achieved a growth
of 12.46%, reaching US$ 5.34 billion
in 2023.
Encouragingly, non-traditional
markets saw significant growth of
20.54% to US$ 8.87 billion in 2023,
diversifying Bangladesh's export port-
folio.Japan, in particular, emerged as a
top destination among major non-tra-
ditional markets, showcasing a
growth of 26.53% compared to 2022.
Future Prospects and Acknowledg-
ments
As the industry reflects on its jour-
ney, the collective efforts of individual
exporters have been instrumental in
sustaining positive growth. Against
the backdrop of a challenging global
market and trade scenario,
Bangladesh's RMG industry has not
only weathered the storm but thrived.
Efforts towards sustainability,
higher value-added production and
diversification have played a crucial
role. Initiatives such as the
Bangladesh Apparel Summit in Mel-
bourne, trade missions and apparel
diplomacy have contributed to creat-
ing a global presence and showcasing
the sector's transformation.
While challenges persist, the
industry's ability to navigate com-
plexities, embrace sustainability
and explore new markets bodes
well for its future. The resilient tale
of Bangladesh's RMG sector in the
face of global challenges is a tes-
tament to its adaptability, vision
and unwavering commitment to
growth. ❑
machines.
● Pad-Spray-Batch (PSB 35) in-
stead of CPB to reduce batch-
ing time.
● Single side digital print preparation
application to increase the speed of
digital printing.
● Different other single side applica-
tions over high GSM textile or non-
woven materials required for spe-
cific end-use. ❑
WWW.TEXTILEINSIGHTS.IN
MARKET INSIGHTS Textile Insights | February 2024

Sun Chemical Addresses Global Freight

Challenges Amid Red Sea Crisis
I
n response to the ongoing geopolitical in-
stabilities affecting maritime transporta-
tion through the Suez Canal and Red Sea,
Sun Chemical has announced the implemen-
tation of selected freight surcharges on a
global scale. Since November, the region has
experienced severe disruptions, impacting ap-
proximately 30% of the world's container
trade. Delays and rerouting through the Cape
of Good Hope have become routine, adding
both costs and time to shipments, while cargo
air freight is witnessing increased demand to
circumvent longer diversions.
Safety measures, shipment delays, con-
tainer rotation and port congestion are af-
fecting vessels departing from China, India
and the Far East. Journey extensions of at
least 20 days outward and 20 days upon re-
turn are becoming commonplace, invoking
several force majeures. The situation is also
causing notable cost increases and poses a
potential threat to the availability of raw ma-
terials.
The company emphasizes transparency
and collaboration with its customers, intending
to communicate specific adjustments
directly. ❑

Bunko Junko: Crafting Wearable Art &

Empowering Women With Textile Scraps!
Continued from Page 24
garments and home furnishing acces-
sories, extending their lifecycle. This
not only lessens the environmental im-
pact by reducing carbon emissions
and minimizing energy and water us-
age, but also creates a substantial so-
cial impact by empowering women
through employment opportunities
and preventing garments from ending
up in landfills.
Bunko Junko's role in minimizing
the fashion industry's carbon foot-
print is commendable. Can you
elaborate on how your brand
achieves this through the repurpos-
ing of textile scraps?
At Bunko Junko, we source scraps
from garment manufacturing units,
leveraging my connections in the in-
dustry. These scraps are then sorted
based on size, shape and colour re-
quirements before undergoing a re-
cutting and sanitization process.After
this, women artisans take over, stitch-
ing the fabric pieces.The resulting fab-
ric is sent to the factory for garment
production, tailored to meet specific
design requirements.
We create a diverse range of prod-
ucts, including jackets, crop tops,
pants, wedding wear, bags, bed
sheets, detachable belts, carry bags,
laptop bags, laptop sleeves, tote bags,
and more. Our product categories are
determined by the available scrap ma-
terials, as our priority lies in utilizing
the materials rather than adhering to
specific categories.
Empowering women seems to be a
core value at Bunko Junko. How do
you engage and uplift women in
your workforce, and what strategies
have proven successful?
Bunko Junko actively empowers
women in its workforce through vari-
ous strategies. We collaborate with
NGOs and juvenile institutions, lever-
aging existing connections to train
women in garment stitching. Some
women are personally trained, while
others receive online training.
We also have a system where
women take cut materials home to
stitch into fabrics. Recognizing the
responsibilities these women have
at home, we provide them with flexi-
bility, allowing them to work from
home. They are compensated well
on a job-work basis for their valuable
contributions.
Challenges often accompany inno-
vation. What hurdles have you faced
in building the Bunko Junko brand,
and how are you addressing them? both online and offline. Where can women empowerment and environ-
Challenges are part of the jour- readers explore Bunko Junko's mental awareness in the textile in-
ney. Currently, team building and unique creations, and what makes dustry?
marketing pose hurdles due to fi- your approach to sales distinctive? My vision is to empower women
nancial constraints, but we're opti- Our creations are available on our beyond numbers—creating a legacy
mistic about overcoming them. GST website and through various plat- of entrepreneurs. In terms of environ-
on scrap materials and a lack of up- forms like Amazon, Brown Living and mental impact, we aim to share our
cycling compliances present regula- OneGreen. While online sales present knowledge far and wide, especially
tory challenges, but we see promis- challenges due to the uniqueness of with the younger generation.Through
ing steps from the government and each product,we aim to overcome this workshops, we want to spark a revolu-
the Ministry of Textiles in address- through storytelling and immersive ex- tion in textile upcycling, turning the
ing these concerns. Awareness re- periences.We're not just selling prod- tide towards sustainability. Bunko
mains a challenge, but our commit- ucts; we're sharing a journey of trans- Junko isn't just a brand; it's a move-
ment to education and workshops formation—one scrap at a time. ment—one that breathes life into dis-
aims to change that narrative. carded materials and redefines the
In closing, what's your vision for narrative of environmental responsi-
Your products have found a home Bunko Junko's future impact on bility in the textile industry. ❑

28 WWW.TEXTILEINSIGHTS.IN
MACHINERY INSIGHTS Textile Insights | February 2024

Saurer - Innovative Solutions For Processing

Fine Yarn Filaments
JEC World is one of the world's leading trade fairs for the composites industry and will be held in Paris from 5th
to 7th March 2024. As a partner to manufacturers and processors of glass fibre yarns, Saurer will welcome
customers and interested visitors to booth K102 in hall 5.
Automation solutions for glass filament yarns
At this year's JEC, Saurer impressed with an au-
tomation solution for handling glass filament bas-
kets. The company's Robot AGV in the glass fila-
ment yarns area loads its GlassTwister fully
automatically, precisely and reliably. Saurer serves
as expert engineering partner for integrated au-
tomation solutions entirely according to the cus-
tomers' needs.

CakeFormingWinder, Saurer glass yarn fila-

ment winding machine
Saurer CakeFormingWinder exactly meets the
desires and requirements of its customers. With a
new technology in the market field of glass filament
winding, Saurer can achieve highest market re-
quests.Thanks to the new rotor technology and the
integration of high-speed traversing system, Saurer
CakeFormingWinder is able to accomplish efficient
production of high-quality glass filament packages.
With a precise and perfect integration into the
process chain Saurer CakeFormingWinder is offer-
ing more technical features like patent bearings, wa-
ter cooled drive box and automatic greasing sys-
tems - and all that regardless of the new rotor tech-
nology and high-speed traversing.
GlassTwister, innovative high performance
ring twisting machine
Saurer GlassTwister is an innovative high per-
formance ring twisting machine for up twisting
glass filament yarns and has become well-estab-
lished in the market. The company's twisting sys-
tems provide optimum level of variability and flexibil-
ity. Along with a range of services oriented toward
customer needs, there is an attractive comprehen-
sive package available - from project planning to the
service warranty and original part availability span-
ning all machine generations.
GlassTwister VGT-P, multi-ply ring twisting
machine with integrated ply unit
Saurer offers the VGT-P, especially for plied and
hybrid yarns. It offers options for more efficiency,
higher quality in the producing field for multiple and
hybrid yarns.The PreTwister units and DownTwister
machine are the perfect combination for producing
balanced multiple yarns of the very best quality. ❑

Positive Momentum In Global Textile Industry:

ITMF Survey
A
January 2024 report published by the Inter-
national Textile Manufacturers Federation
(ITMF) paints a promising picture for the
global textile industry. Despite previous challenges,
the survey indicates a notable upswing in the busi-
ness climate, hinting at a potential turning point for
the sector.

Key Highlights
Business Climate Improvement: The survey
reveals a significant improvement in the overall busi-
ness climate, with industry stakeholders express-
ing growing optimism. Factors such as better infla-
tion rates, increased real wages and improved
consumer sentiment, particularly in the USA mar-
ket, have contributed to this positive shift.
Enhanced Order Intake and Expectations: Or-
der intakes have shown marked improvement
across various regions, particularly in North & Cen-
tral America and South America. This uptick in de-
mand has led to heightened business expectations
for July 2024, reaching levels unseen since late
2021.
Stability in Backlog and Capacity Utilization:
While the average order backlog has remained
steady at approximately 2 months since July 2023,
capacity utilization has lingered at its lowest
recorded level of 67%. This cautious approach to
production reflects a nuanced understanding of
market dynamics among industry players.
Decreased Concerns Over Weakening De-
mand: Concerns regarding weakening demand in
the global textile value chain have eased, with only
67% of respondents citing it as a primary concern
in January 2024—the lowest figure since May
2023. Moreover, there has been a shift towards
reduced rather than cancelled orders, indicating a
more resilient response to market challenges.
Nuanced Market Perspectives: Survey partic-
ipants hold varied views on current market condi-
tions, with 57% describing inventories as average.
South American respondents reported higher in-
ventory levels, while garment producers noted the
lowest inventories, highlighting the complexity of
market dynamics. ❑

30 WWW.TEXTILEINSIGHTS.IN
CYBER SECURITY INSIGHT
‘Organisations Must Balance Data SecurityAnd
PrivacyWith Broader Objectives Of Business’
A
s 2024 unfolds, organizational leaders,
from the CEO down to the manager, have
much on their plates. They are contending
with diverse challenges to achieving sustained
growth, navigating the impact and risks of emerging
technology and attracting and retaining talent, to
name just a few. For their part, Chief Information
Security Officers (CISOs) are increasingly being
viewed as proactive co-stewards of these ongoing
business imperatives — not merely the cavalry
leader riding in to save the day during a crisis.
In its annual Cybersecurity Considerations re-
port, a diverse cross-section of global KPMG cyber
security specialists explore eight considerations
that CISOs and their teams are encouraged to pri-
oritize in the current year to support the organiza-
tion’s business growth objectives by mitigating the
impact of specific cyber security breach incidents
and reducing overall cyber risk exposure.
As per the KPMG report, organizations world-
wide face many cyber security challenges requir-
ing the implementation of controls to build and em-
bed resilience, meet regulatory mandates and
reduce overall risk. However, the rapid emergence of
artificial intelligence (AI) as a strategic tool for both
legitimate and nefarious purposes is rapidly moving
up the list. The democratization of AI -- these ad-
vanced technology solutions and models are now
largely accessible to anyone with a credit card via
the cloud — has at once revealed new paths to
value creation and exposed significant potential
risks.AI is proving to be a true organizational game-
changer, including for security teams.
“This evolving threat landscape requires organ-
izations and their CISOs to view security through
a new, more pragmatic lens. More than ever before,
they must balance data security and privacy with
the broader objectives of the business. From cyber
security perspective, the impacts of societal, eco-
nomic, political and regulatory developments are
more consistently felt globally today. The simple
reason is the world is more connected,” says
Akhilesh Tuteja, Global Cyber Security Leader,
KPMG International.
The most acute effect of the connected busi-
ness ecosystem continues to be within global sup-
ply chains — for all practical purposes, there are
virtually no regions of the world that are isolated
anymore. However, there remain local nuances. For
example, there are uniquely regional regulatory re-
quirements to which businesses must adhere, such
as certain markets being more sensitive to the pro-
tection of personal data and new rules around re-
sponsible AI, critical infrastructure and supply
chains.
There is a global focus within the cyber secu-
rity universe on compliance in general, with a re-
fined eye toward the overall burden of regulation,
32
as well as the diversity of various reporting require-
ments. As a result, companies are putting more
emphasis on embedding privacy and security
within the way they comply with a broad range of
trans-border regulatory requirements and regimes.
This is of particular interest when it comes to build-
ing and governing responsible AI systems, ensur-
ing customer privacy and enacting guidelines
around critical infrastructure, supply chains, smart
products and resilience.
I encourage CISOs to sharpen
their cyber risk quantification
(CRQ) process, which helps
express the impact of cyber
security risk in financial terms
using mathematical modelling
to illustrate risk through
measurable variables.
Akhilesh Tuteja, Global
Cyber Security Leader,
KPMG International
Textile Insights | February 2024
At the same time, the KPMG report says, cyber
security budgets may have to be more objectively
justified moving forward as organizations deal with
economic uncertainty. Many CISOs are seeing flat
budgets, not necessarily reduced, as some of that
spend is diverted to organizational innovation, par-
ticularly AI and automation solutions. This note-
worthy development requires security teams to en-
gage in technology rationalization and budget
optimization — essentially, doing more with less.
While economic headwinds drive budget pres-
sures, there is a growing view that cyber security
has matured to the point that organizations can
trim investment. Further, security functionality is
now embedded within other IT and transformation
budgets rather than being a central budget provi-
sion.Also, the shift to a cloud-based security-as-a-
service approach embeds security costs into com-
panies’ broader operating expenses in a way we
have not seen previously.
“In this environment, I encourage CISOs to
sharpen their cyber risk quantification (CRQ)
process, which helps express the impact of cyber
security risk in financial terms using mathemati-
cal modelling to illustrate risk through measurable
variables. Looking at risk through a CRQ lens can
effectively demonstrate return on investment and
investment priorities to leadership and the Board,
ensuring the organization,” adds Tuteja.
Fundamentally, this report explores from various
angles what is perhaps the central aspiration for
executives across the enterprise: keeping their or-
ganizations resilient. Bottom line, if a data leak or
network breach occurs, how quickly can the organ-
ization resume regular operations, and how can the
impact on customers be minimized? This is em-
blematic of the resilience agenda that can be seen
within many of the most recently proposed regu-
lations, particularly those focusing on critical infra-
structure sectors. ❑
WWW.TEXTILEINSIGHTS.IN