A Guide

to
Starting Seeds
How to Grow Healthy Vegetables from Seeds

By Peter Davies

Copyright © 2014 Fresh Organic Gardening

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
CHAPTER 1: FIRST THINGS FIRST
Decide What You Want To Grow
Get To Know Your Planting Area
CHAPTER 2: SEEDS AND SEED PACKETS
Seeds
Important Seed Information on Packets
Seed Germination
Germination Days & Optimal Soil Temperature Range for Germination of Common Edible
Plants
CHAPTER 3: SOW WHAT WHEN
How to Create a Sowing Schedule
CHAPTER 4: STARTING SEEDS INDOORS
Planting Medium
DIY Starting Mix
Other Options
Equipment for Starting Seeds Indoors
Sowing the Seeds (Steps)
Care of Seedlings
Potting on Seedlings
Transplanting and Care After
Hardening Off
Get Your Garden Ready
Transplanting Steps
Care After Transplanting
Plants that are Easy to Start Indoors
CHAPTER 5: SOWING SEEDS OUTDOORS
Prepare Your Garden
When is the Best Time to Sow?
Sowing the Seeds (Steps)
Care of Seeds and Seedlings
Plants that are Easy to Start Outdoors
CHAPTER 6: PROBLEMS TO EXPECT
Damping Off
Cutworms
Birds and Animal Pests
SOME HELPFUL RESOURCES
IMAGE CREDITS
OTHER TITLES BY PETER DAVIES
INTRODUCTION
“A garden can start from a single seed”.
There is nothing more satisfying and awe-inspiring than seeing plants spring forth from the ground
knowing that they were once just tiny kernels beneath the soil.
And though we may know the science behind the growth of a plant, we still regard it as somewhat
magical, and there is great comfort in knowing that we have the knowledge to encourage life out
from a seed which in turn can support greater life.
Guide to Starting Seeds offers information you need to start a garden from seeds. In it you will
learn how to start seeds indoors or outdoors, how to make sowing schedules, how to care for the
germinating seeds and the seedlings, how to transplant young plants, what problems to expect when
germinating seeds and how to avoid them and more.
Why start from seeds?
Although buying young plants or seedlings from your local garden center is quicker and easier,
there are other reasons why starting from seeds makes good sense (apart from being part of and
witnessing something magical!)…
You can save money. Seeds are a lot cheaper than seedlings or grown plants. Even if you have to
buy some seed growing equipment, seeds are still less expensive than plants.
You have more options to choose from. Variety, variety, variety! That is one of the things that
make gardening so much fun. Looking at seed catalogs, you already see how many varieties are out
there just waiting for you to try them.
You can choose to go organic. Growing organic plants from seeds ensure safe, healthy, chemical-
free food.
You can experiment. You can grow vegetables or annuals you have not tried before.
You go at your own pace. If you are a beginner gardener, you can start with a few packets of seeds
that are easy to grow.
Teach your kids to garden. Raise a gardener as you grow a garden. Growing a plant from a seed
is one of the greatest lessons in life that you can impart to your kids.
CHAPTER 1: FIRST THINGS FIRST
Make a decision - what will you grow?
You have to decide on what to grow before you can start seeds. When deciding, there are a few
things you need to consider…
Decide What You Want To Grow
Gardening is a lot easier if you grow something that you like or enjoy. What vegetables do you and
your family like eat? What flowers do you want to grow; fragrant ones, colorful ones or exotic
looking ones?
Gardening comes with as much failures as successes so it doesn’t make sense to work hard in
growing something you really don’t like especially if you are only beginning to garden.
Your experience.
If you have not started plants from seeds before, it is best to begin with crops that are easy to start
indoors or out. Also, stick only with a few selections to make learning a breeze and ensure greater
success. As you gain experience, then you can try more challenging crops and a greater number of
selections.
A list of easy-to-start seeds are provided in each of the chapters dedicated for Starting Seeds
Indoors and Sowing Seeds Outdoors.
How much are you planning to grow?
Do you want just enough for fresh salads from time to time? Or do you want a kitchen garden that
can provide you with a steady supply of vegetables, herbs and fruits that you won’t have to buy
them from the grocery store. Do you plan to can or preserve your harvest?
What you want to get from your garden and what you plan to do with your harvests can help you
plan the size of your garden and decide what seeds you want to start.
Of course you also have to consider what available space you have and how much time you have
for raising and tending to your garden.
Get To Know Your Planting Area
What size is your planting area?
If you have garden space or raised bed, consider the size of it so you know its square footage. If
you don’t have space and you must use containers, how many of these do you have and what could
be grown in each?
What kind of soil do you have?
There are three common soil types you need to know of as a gardener: clay, sandy and loamy.
Clay soil is generally rich in nutrients but drains slowly; sandy soil is quickly drained but cannot
retain most of the nutrients; loamy soil can retain both moisture and nutrients and is considered the
ideal soil for gardening.
Another thing you need to understand about soil is pH level. pH is a scale used to measure and
identify the acid or alkaline level of a substance. In soil, the level of acid or alkaline in it usually
determines the mineral elements that are available to plants and affects sowing times.
You can determine your soil type and pH level by having it tested. Contact your local Cooperative
Extension office for help with this, they will be more than happy to assist you and provide you
with important information you need regarding soil.
Light and shade.
Another thing to consider before starting your garden is how much light does your garden receive?
Note that the amount of sunlight your garden gets during the summer is different from the amount it
gets during winter.
It is also important to note the direction of your garden; does it lay east to west or north to south?
Consider the things that can obstruct the light the garden receives like trees, tall shrubs, walls,
sheds, etc. and note where they cast shadows. Remember that there are vegetables that are shade
tolerant while there are those that require a lot of sunshine. Generally, the minimum sunlight
requirements for different types of vegetables are:
- 8 hours of sunlight for fruiting vegetables (example: tomatoes, peppers and eggplants and vine
crops like squash, cucumbers and melons.
- 6 hours for root vegetables (example: beets and carrots)
- 4 hours for leafy vegetables (example: lettuce, spinach and collards)
These requirements are but the minimum and exposing the vegetables to more sunlight will
generally ensure better crop quality and yield.
For your reference, here’s a list of herbs and vegetables that are more tolerant to less sunlight…
CHAPTER 2: SEEDS AND SEED PACKETS
Seeds
There are different types of seeds and knowing each type will help you decide on what to buy.
Open-pollinated
These are plants that have been pollinated without the intervention of gardeners like
plants freely pollinated by bees. Open pollinated seeds are ideal for saving seeds that
are to be replanted.
Heirloom
Heirloom seeds may refer to varieties that have been saved for three generations or
more. It may also refer to varieties that are more than 40 years old. Heirloom seeds are
open-pollinated and remain true year after year. This type of seeds is preferred by most
gardeners because they are resistant to diseases that are common where they have been
grown, so harsh chemicals are not required for successful harvests.
Organic
When you see the word “Organic” or “Certified Organic” on a seed packet or catalog, it
means that the grower who produced the seed has followed every rule specified by the
USDA’s National Organic Program.
Organic seeds have been produced on lands that have not been exposed to chemical
fertilizers or pesticides for three years and no genetic engineering or use of sewage
sludge were involved in producing the seeds.
Hybrid
When two distinct plants are cross-pollinated, the result is hybrid seeds. Hybrids can
occur naturally like when bees pollinate two different plants. However, most hybrid
seeds you can buy were cross-pollinated by breeders on purpose. Cross-pollinated
seeds will have the best qualities from both parents like for example resistance to
disease or bigger yields which improves marketability. However, hybrid seeds do not
save well and new hybrid seeds must be bought every growing season if you want to
grow the same kind of plant with the same quality again.
Organic plants can be cross-pollinated and the result is called an organic hybrid.
Think about how you want to garden to make it easier to decide on what type of seeds to invest on.
Sure, seed packets only cost a few dollars but buying the wrong types can still cost you more than
you planned to spend. Do you want to grow your vegetables, herbs and flowers organically? Do
you plan to save seeds for future sowing? Do you want plants with specific characteristics?
Knowing what you want will point you to the right direction.
Some vegetable and flower seeds are really, really tiny (like carrot seeds) and seed companies
typically sell them coated in materials like starch or clay. These seeds are called pelleted seeds
and may be hybrid or organic. They are also more expensive than the regular, unpelleted seeds but
they are easier to sow.
Important Seed Information on Packets
Seed packets contain a wealth of information but it can all be confusing for a newbie gardener.
There are terminologies that may be there but are not explained thoroughly owing to the small size
of the packet.

In any given seed packet, the following information can be found at the front:
- the seed company name
- the type of plant
- the variety or cultivar of said plant
- a picture of the plant in its maturity stage (what it will look like when it is ready to harvest)
- the weight of the packet
- additional information like organic or heirloom
The back of the seed packet usually contains the following information:
- Sell-by date – if the seeds are sold within the specified date, the company guarantees that the
seeds will germinate. The seeds can still germinate after the sell by date but the rate of germination
may go down.
- A description of the variety/cultivar – describes the specific characteristics of the plant. There
are also some terms or phrases included in the description like:
- indeterminate or determinate – used to describe tomato varieties. Indeterminate means
that plant will continue to grow unless controlled. Determinate means that the plant has a
determined height and will stop growing once that is reached.
- vines or bush – used to describe varieties of cucumber, squash and bean plants. Vine
varieties will need to be trained to grow and run along trellises or fences while bush
varieties, since they are more compact, only take a set amount of space.
- annual or perennial – annuals are plants that live only for a year and perennials are
plants that come back year after year.
- Propagation – this informs you how to start the plant i.e. directly into the garden (without
starting indoors) and when to start the plant i.e. in early spring or when the ground has reached a
specified temperature or weeks before the last frost date in spring.
- Specifications for growing the seeds – this is probably the most useful information in a seed
packet. It is usually presented in a chart or panel at the back of the seed packet and provides
details on planting depth, soil temperature for germination, days to germination, plant spacing,
number of days to maturity, water requirement and sunlight requirement.
- Lot number – you don’t really need this information to plant or start the seeds. If there is a
problem with the seeds you bought though, the company might ask you for this information.
Some Information that May Not Be In Seed Packets
The following are information may not be listed in the seed packet but you can normally find these
in the catalog online.
- how to prepare the soil (in general or for that specific plant)
- how to water; when to water; how much water is needed
- when to harvest
- when to collect seeds
- how to save the seeds
Read the packets or catalog thoroughly before you plant.
Seed Germination
A seed contains a plant’s embryo in a state of rest. Germination is the embryo’s resumption of
active growth.
In order for a seed to germinate, it must be viable and the conditions must be favorable. Viable
seeds germinate when the temperature is in the ideal range and when there is water (moisture),
light and oxygen.
Each seed, tiny or large, contain a plant embryo with a root, shoot and set of leaves. It also
contains one or two cotyledon/s (also called seed leaves) which serves as the nutrient source for
the young plant. When exposed to the right conditions (enough water, proper temperature, loose
well-drained soil), the seed will begin to sprout.
Growth will begin once the seed absorbed enough water. The root will push down and the stem
will elongate. Depending on the kind of plant, the cotyledon may stay beneath the soil or will be
pushed above the soil. The seedling’s nutrients will come from the cotyledon but once its leaves
have expanded enough, it can begin to make its own food.
Germination Testing
Germination testing is done on stored or old seeds to find out their viability. Testing for
germination will let you know if you can get something from the seeds you sow. If the seeds don’t
germinate at all, you can buy fresh seeds to replace them or if the germination rate is low, you can
sow the seeds thickly.
The seeds of annual vegetables and flowers are usually the ones tested for germination. The seeds
of perennials and woody plants sprout really slow and may even have dormancy requirements.
Such seeds are best sown and then wait and see what happens.
A Simple Way To Test For Germination
This basic paper towel method is a simple way to find out the viability of stored seeds.
To do this test, you will need:
- paper towels (the thick, strong type that doesn’t tear easily)
- Ziploc bags or airtight container
- seeds for testing
The procedure:
1. Dampen the paper towel. Select 10 seeds and spread them an inch apart on the damp paper
towel.
2. Fold or roll up the paper towel.
3. Place the paper towel in the Ziploc bag or airtight container. Label the bag/container with the
plant name and the date.
4. Set the bag or container in a warm place (65° to 70°F).
5. Most seeds germinate in about a week or two (parsnips can take up to 3 weeks and beans, peas
and corn germinate in just 2-3 days) so check the test after a week for any sprouted seeds. If you
are not sure how long it will take for the seeds to germinate, unfold the paper towel after a couple
of days. If any of the seeds have germinated, count them and take them out of the test. Spray the
remaining seeds with water to moisten them and roll or fold the paper towel again. Check the
remaining seeds every other day for signs of germination. Make sure the seeds are moist (not
dripping wet) and are at the right temperature. Whenever you see seeds that have germinated, count
them and remove them from the paper towel. When you are sure that all viable seeds have
germinated or if you have not seen new sprouts for a while, the test is most likely done.
If 7 or more of the 10 seeds have sprouted, sow the seeds at normal rate as recommended on the
packet. If less than 7 seeds have sprouted, sow densely to make up for the low germination.
If none of the seeds germinate within the normal germination time, they must be replaced with fresh
ones.
Germination Days & Optimal Soil Temperature Range for Germination of Common Edible Plants
CHAPTER 3: SOW WHAT WHEN
It is important to know when to sow what seeds you have. Sowing schedule varies from plant to
plant and from region to region. In the northern hemisphere, gardeners normally start their plants
indoors early to cope with a short growing season.
Make a sowing schedule and organize your seed packets according to their sowing date. This way,
it will be easier for you to find the seeds you want when you need them.
How to Create a Sowing Schedule
First you need to know your region’s last spring frost date. You can ask your local Cooperative
Extension office and they can also give advice on when are the best times to sow and transplant in
your area. Or you can find out your last spring frost date online. If you’re in the U.S., Almanac.com
can provide you with the information; simply input your zip code or city and state. Their system
accepts information from Canada but will give you the last frost date for the nearest U.S. climate
station.
Asking other people you know who garden can also give you an idea on when to start different
indoors or outdoors and when to transplant. Ask them what works for them best and try it because
it might work just as well for you too.
Once you know your last spring frost date, sort your seed packets based on sowing dates. This
information can be found on the back of seed packets. For example, tomatoes are typically started
indoors 6 weeks before the last frost. So count 6 weeks or 42 days backward from your frost date
to know when to sow the seeds indoors. The same method for determining sowing date is used for
seeds to be started directly outdoors. Write the sowing date on the seed packet.
While you are sorting seeds, you should also note the suggested transplant times for each plant.
You don’t have to follow the exact transplant dates because not every day is suitable for
transplanting seedlings outdoors. The approximate transplant dates will serve as a general guide
for when to set seedlings out. Again, refer to the seed packet or catalog for transplanting
information such as space between plants and planting depth.
With direct sow seeds, soil temperature is key to success. Some plants germinate well in cool
temperatures while others prefer the soil to be warmer. Refer to the chart (Germination Days &
Optimal Soil Temperature Range for Germination of Common Edible Plants) in the previous
chapter for the optimal soil temperature range for direct sow plants.
So your sowing schedule should have the following information: sowing date (for both indoor and
direct sow seeds), approximate transplant dates and optimal soil temperature for germination.
Throughout the growing season, add notes to your schedule about what you grew, what worked and
what didn’t. By the next growing season, you have something to look back to which can help you
plan your next garden and make it even better than the previous one.
CHAPTER 4: STARTING SEEDS INDOORS
Planting Medium
What planting medium should be used for starting seeds indoors?
Some gardeners use potting soil while others use starting mixes. Both growing mediums are
actually soil-less and contain no dirt or soil.
Potting soil. Regular potting soil is a mixture of sphagnum moss or peat moss,
vermiculite which is a mineral based clay substance, perlite or volcanic glass and
fertilizers. There are also organic potting soils which contain more products than peat
moss, vermiculite and perlite. Organic compounds are added to this type of potting soil
such as worm castings, seaweed extracts and living micro-organisms. Organic potting
soils are more expensive than regular potting soils.
Starting mixes. These are generally a mixture of lime, peat moss, vermiculite and a
wetting agent. Starting mixes are unfertilized since baby plants get the nutrients they need
from the seed and will only need feeding once they developed true leaves.
It’s fine to use potting soil to start seeds but if you want to ensure that your starting plants are free
from diseases, use a starting mix. Starting mixes are light, firm yet airy and sterile so the correct
balance of air and moisture are maintained for seed germination plus problems like diseases and
seeds going to rot are reduced.
Some things to remember…
- if you are going to use potting soil to start seeds, choose the kind that has no added fertilizer
because the young plants will have no need for it
- also, do not opt for the cheapest potting soil because this will probably contain soil, dirt and
other unwanted compounds
- if starting tiny, tiny seeds like cauliflower, broccoli or petunias, use a fine seed starting mix to
prevent the seeds from getting washed away when watered.
DIY Starting Mix
Some gardeners like to make their own starting mixes using ingredients that are bought from their
local garden store. The basic recipe for homemade mixes is equal parts sphagnum moss, perlite
and vermiculite. Compost, leaf mold or coir may also be added. When the seedling has grown
enough and starts to require feeding, advanced gardeners also start to add fertilizers and nutrient
sources to their homemade mixes.
Making homemade seed starting mixes can be cumbersome though and it can easily be mixed
wrong so it is still best to use a pre-mixed starting medium.
Other Options
Expanding Peat Pellets
These discs of compressed peat function as starting soil and pot. They are also great at water
retention and maintaining warmth. These are bought from garden stores or online.
To use peat pellets, place them in a tray and add warm water to hydrate them. After absorbing the
water, the pellets will expand to approximately 2 inches in height. Each pellet has netting that
holds the wet peat together. Once the pellets have expanded, just press in the seeds and gently tamp
them down. As the seedlings grow, the pellets will gradually dry out so you need to monitor them
and gently water when necessary.
Using peat pellets to start seeds make transplanting them easy and avoids disturbing the young
roots. Simply rip off the netting and place the seedling and the peat directly into the hole. Each peat
pellet cost anywhere from $0.10 to $0.50.
Regular Garden Soil
If you want to use the soil from your own garden, you will need to sterilize it first. Using plain
garden soil that is taken directly from the garden or outdoors without sterilizing it runs the risk of
growing weeds that can smother your young plants. Also, there could be disease-causing fungus
and pathogens in there.
You can sterilize plain garden soil and make it suitable for starting seeds by heating it. Get the
amount of dirt you need and place it in a cookie sheet. Then put it in an oven preheated to 200°F
for 30 minutes. This should kill the seeds and roots of weeds, fungus and pathogens that might be
lurking in the dirt.
When the garden soil has cooled down, you can use it as it is or add other starting mix components
to it like sphagnum moss.
Equipment for Starting Seeds Indoors

As long as you use a good quality starting mix or potting soil, seeds will happily germinate in
almost any container with holes in the bottom to drain excess water away.
You can buy new pots, packs or flats. The standard-sized 3½-inch pots are ideal for most
seedlings. For smaller annuals, you can purchase cell packs with 1½- or 2-inch cells.
You can also use recycled pots if you want to save money. If you are new to gardening, ask your
gardener friends or relatives if they have extra pots and packs they can spare. Wash previously
used pots and packs before reusing them. They should also be sterilized by dipping them in a 10%
bleach solution or 1-part bleach to 9-parts water. Before you refill them with starting mix, let them
air-dry first.
There are also plantable containers you can use. These biocontainers make replanting seedlings a
real breeze since you won’t have to remove the young plants; simply put the whole thing (plant and
pot) into the hole. These types of containers are best for fussy seedlings but you can use them for
all transplants. Plantable biocontainers are made from biodegradable materials like peat, wood
fiber, coir and manure. Once they are planted in the garden, the roots of the plants will simply
grow through the sides of the biocontainers and the materials become incorporated in the soil as
nutrient soil and fertilizer.
Other containers you can use to start your seeds in include paper coffee cups, yogurt cups and PET
bottles that are cut in half. Just poke holes in the bottom of your found container, fill them with
starting mix and sow.
Place your pots and packs in flats or trays that can hold water to keep your seed starting area from
getting too messy.
Sowing the Seeds (Steps)
So you’ve checked your sowing schedule and it told you it’s time to sow, you have your seeds,
you’re starting or potting mix are ready and you also have your containers. It’s time to start the fun!

The first thing you need to do is to moisten the

potting or starting mix at least 2 hours before filling the containers. If you can, moisten the mix the
day before you decide to sow. Starting or potting mix can be hard to thoroughly water once they
are already in containers so pre-moistening it in a large bucket or similar container will eliminate
any dry pockets that can hinder germination.
Next, read the seed packet or catalog carefully to find out if the seeds have any special
requirements for successful germination.
Then, you are ready to sow:
1. Fill the containers with the pre-moistened mix. Use your fingers to gently firm the mix. The
growing medium should be about half an inch from the rim of the container.
2. Sow 3 or 4 seeds in the center or sprinkle them thinly over the surface. Do not worry too much
about the spacing of the seeds. Typically, the seedlings will be thinned before transplanting so that
only the strong ones are transferred. Most packets also include sowing space recommendations
which you can follow. Large seeds or pelletized seeds should be planted individually.
3. Cover the seeds. Sieve a light layer of moistened potting or starting mix over the seeds. Seeds
should be covered to a depth equal to the thickness of the seed but check the packet or catalog for
the exact information.
4. Label the container with the name of the plant and the sowing date.
5. Set the containers in a tray of water and allow them to absorb the water. Afterwards, move
them to another tray and let them drain.
6. Finally, set the containers or flats where you want the plants to grow – in a greenhouse, in the
basement under lights or in a window.
After sowing…
- keep the mix evenly moist (not wet)
- cover containers or flats with a humidity cover; you can use clear plastic as loose cover
- when seedlings start to shoot up, remove the cover
Care of Seedlings
Once seedlings appear, they will need your help so they can continue to grow. They will require
the following…
Light, and plenty of it. Seedlings need plenty of light to grow into strong plants so the best area to
set pots or flats in is somewhere sunny. If you don’t have a sunny spot or window, artificial lights
is the next best thing. Most of the time, even a bright window is not enough to provide seedlings
with the light they require and this is especially true during late winter or early spring when days
are short.
Give your seedlings a boost by putting them under artificial lights. There are special grow lights
for plants you can purchase but these are quite expensive. You can save money by using fluorescent
lights which are just as good. Set up the lights in a way that will let you adjust the distance
between the lights and the top leaves of the growing seedlings. You can mount the lights using
hooks and chains. During the first few weeks, keep the lights at a distance of 3 inches from the top
most leaves of the seedlings and after that, adjust the lights so that they are 4-6 inches above the
topmost leaves.

If your seedlings grow tall and spindly, they are not receiving enough light. It would help to
replace the fluorescent lights with new ones because these are significantly brighter. Or perhaps
adjust the distance between the light and topmost leaves and shorten it. If the leaves of the young
plants appear scorched and droopy, the lights are too close so lengthen the distance.
Optimal temperature. Most seedlings are happy with temperatures between 65°F and 70°F but
some like it cooler or warmer. Refer to the packet or online catalog for recommendations. Try to
keep the temperature relatively steady and avoid exposing the seedlings to changing temperatures.
It is generally cooler during the night by about 10°F. Artificial lighting can help keep temperature
consistent for the seedlings.
If you are using a heat mat, unplug and move the seedlings off it. You can use it to speed up the
germination of other seeds.
Just the right moisture. Seedlings like their starting mix evenly moist meaning it should not be
too dry nor too wet. So be sure to check moisture regularly. Check moisture by sticking a finger
into the mix. You will be able to determine if the potting soil is dry, wet or just right.
Potting on Seedlings
Many young plants benefit from an ‘in-between’ stage where they are transferred to a larger
planting container or pot before they are transplanted outdoors or to their final growing place. The
larger pot gives the seedlings more space to grow and develop.
Transferring seedlings to a larger container is called potting on. This is usually done to avoid
competition and overcrowding of roots in containers where seeds were densely sown. Potting on
seedlings also ensure that they receive adequate lighting as they are not shaded by other seedlings.
How Potting On Is Done
1. Pre-moisten the potting mix.
2. Fill the new, larger pots half-full with the mix. Make a hole in the mix with your finger or a
pencil to accommodate the roots.
3. Tip the seedling out of its container. If the plants are in a modular tray, push from under the tray
to loosen the root ball and pull the seedling gently. For seedlings that are sown closely to each
other, separate the roots by gently pressing on the root ball between the seedlings.
4. Place the seedling in the hole. Set the seedlings at the same depth they were growing in their old
container. For tomatoes, as they grow roots along the upper stem, set them so that the potting mix
comes just under the young tomato’s lowest pair of leaves.
Important Note: When transferring a seedling, try not to hold it by the stem. Instead, hold it by
the leaf since the stem of a young plant is easy to crush.
5. Add more moistened mix around the seedling until the pot is full. Gently firm the mix with your
fingers.
6. Water the newly transplanted seedlings by misting them with a spray bottle or setting the pots in
a tray of water. Setting the pots in water will let the water soak upward to the surface of the mix
and help prevent fungal diseases like damping-off.
7. Drain the water and set the pots up under light. Make sure that the mix stays evenly moist to
avoid stress. Your young plants will continue to grow in their new digs until they are ready to be
transplanted outdoors or to a much larger container.
Transplanting and Care After
Check your calendar! Is it time to transplant?
If the time is about right to introduce your young plants to the great outdoors, start preparing your
garden soil and start hardening off your seedlings to avoid transplant shock.
Hardening Off
Before transplanting plants, you must gradually prepare them for life outdoors. There are 3
methods of hardening off seedlings for transplant…
1. Gradually expose them to the elements
- begin 7 to 10 days before the transplant date
- choose a spot outdoors that is shaded and protected from wind like your back porch or
under a tree or hedge
- place the plants in the protected location and leave them there for about 3 hours on the
first day; gradually increase the time by 1-2 hours a day afterwards
- bring plants back indoors each night
- after 2 to 3 days, move the plants from their protected spot into the morning sun; in the
afternoon, return them to the shaded area
- after a week, the plants should be able to stand in the sun all day and stay outside all
night if the temperature is around 50°F; monitor the soil to make sure it does not dry out
during warm days as this might cook the young roots
- after 7 to 10 days, the seedlings should be ready to transplant
- water the plants well after planting
2. Reduce water
- begin 2 weeks before the transplant date
- do not water the seedlings until they begin to wilt; letting the young plants wilt has the
same effect as gradually exposing them to outdoor elements
- once the seedlings have wilted, water as you normally do then wait for them to wilt
again before watering
- after 2 weeks of withholding water, the young plants should be ready to transplant
- water the plants well after planting
3. Place the seedlings in a cold frame
- begin 7 to 10 days before the transplant date
- move the seedlings and leave them in a cold frame
- turn the heating cables off and leave the cold frame sash open for longer periods each
day (begin with 3 hours on the first day and gradually increase time by 1-2 hours a day
afterwards)
- at night, when temperatures go below 40°F, close the cover and resume heating
- after 7 to 10 days, the seedlings should be ready to transplant
- water the plants well after planting
Get Your Garden Ready
While the seedlings are hardening, prepare your garden.
Start by loosening the soil to at least the depth of a shovel. But before you start digging the soil,
check its readiness. Don’t dig when the soil is still too dry or too wet to avoid damaging its
structure. If the soil is too dry when you dig it, you will end up getting powdery or dusty soil. If it
is too wet, the end product will be lumpy and hard.
Before digging, grab a handful of soil and crush it in your palm. Then gently press on it with a
finger. If the soil crumbles apart easily, it’s ready to dig. If the soil won’t form a clump when you
crush it in your palm and it breaks apart easily, your soil is too dry. Water the planting area
thoroughly and wait one day before testing the soil again. If the soil is clumpy when you crash it in
your palm and doesn’t break apart easily, the soil is too wet. Wait a day or two before testing
digging.
Work in plenty of organic matter like compost, manure or leaf mold. Compost is best for improving
the structure and pH level of the soil.
Weeding is part of the garden preparation.
Weeds are tough and resilient and they can easily harm your seedlings. So before you transplant,
make sure all weeds are eradicated. As you prepare the garden, dig up roots of annual and
perennial weeds. After planting your young plants, mulch at once to keep weeds from sprouting
back. When you mulch, make sure to keep the materials about an inch away from the stems of the
young plants to maintain air circulation and prevent diseases.
The Best Day to Transplant

An overcast day is ideal for transferring young plants from their indoor
containers to the garden. A cloudy day minimizes the stress to the young plants. If you must
transplant on a sunny day however, provide some protection once the plants are planted. You can
create tents using row-cover fabric to shade the plants as they settle in. Make sure that the cover
will still allow good air circulation.
Transplanting Steps
1. Check moisture. The garden soil should be moist like the potting soil – but not wet. Water
deeply if necessary.
2. Dig a hole for planting. The diameter of the hole should be bigger than the rootball of the young
plant.
3. Gently tip the plant off its pot or container. Avoid handling the plant by the stem.
4. Set the transplants in their designated holes. The depth they sit should be the same depth they
were growing in their container.
5. Gently press the soil to firm it and ensure good soil-to-root contact.
6. Water the soil right after planting. This gets rid of air pockets and minimizes transplant shock.
Care After Transplanting
After transplanting, the young plants might need some help from you as they adjust to their new
environment. There are some simple things you can do to help them cope.
Keep the plants well watered. Water the newly-transplanted seedlings every day or every other
day for about 1 week until they are well established. After that, you can water them at the same
time you water the rest of your plants.
Protect them from the sun. Sunny days can stress your seedlings so it is best to cover them for
the first two days. Burlap sacks propped up on sticks are good sun protectors. Old wicker baskets
or cardboard boxes can also be used. Make sure to prop these up with sticks to allow for
circulation.
Protect them from extended cold or frost. If it is too cold, plants will stop growing. If there is
any chance the seedlings will be exposed to cold temperatures due to extended cold or frost, you
can use cloches, row covers or sheets of plastic covers to keep the plants warm.
Plants that are Easy to Start Indoors
These vegetables are the easiest to start indoors:

These annuals are the easiest to start indoors:

CHAPTER 5: SOWING SEEDS OUTDOORS
Many vegetables, annuals, woody plants and perennials can be sown directly outdoors. Direct
sowing is the most common method of starting different kinds of plants. If you want to germinate
plants right where you want them to grow, this section can help you.
Prepare Your Garden
Prepare your soil the same way you would if you are going to transplant seedlings. (See Get Your
Garden Ready)
Check the soil’s moisture and dig only if it is not too dry or too wet. Incorporate organic matter
like compost or manure to improve the soil’s structure. If you had your soil tested by your local
extension office, follow their recommendations on preparing and/or improving your soil before
sowing seeds. Be sure to pull up weeds and their roots to keep them from stealing nutrients
intended for your plants as they grow. After digging up the soil and incorporating organic material,
rake the site smooth.
If you are not yet ready to sow the seeds, cover the garden with mulch. This will keep weeds from
sprouting. Spread 6-8 sheets of newspaper under the mulch to suffocate any weeds that might
attempt to spring forth. When you are ready to plant the seeds, simply scrape the mulch aside to get
to the soil.
Mulching is also a very good way to heat the soil for heat-loving plants like peppers. If you want
to start early, warming the planting area with mulch will help the seeds germinate.
When is the Best Time to Sow?
Since you will be planting the seeds directly outside where the young plants will be exposed to the
elements the moment they spring from the ground, it is best to know the best time to direct sow.
Sowing the seeds when the soil is still too cold can hinder germination and even cause the seeds to
rot.
To determine the best time to start the seeds outdoors, follow these tips…
> Create a schedule to know the sowing date for each type of plant. (See Sow What When to learn
how to make a sowing schedule.)
> Check the temperature of the soil. Use a soil or compost thermometer to get the soil temperature
every day for five days. Note the temperature reading each time. On the fifth day, add up all your
readings and divide the sum by five to get the soil’s average temperature. Cool-season crops
germinate well at temperatures between 45°F and 60°F while warm-season crops germinate well
at temperatures between 65°F and 80°F. (See this chart for the optimal soil temperature range for
germination of common edible plants.)
> Observe what other gardeners are planting. Seasoned gardeners are a good judge of the best
times to direct sow seeds. If you have neighbors, friends or relatives who garden, emulate them
and sow what they sow. As you gain experience over the years, you too will acquire the necessary
knowledge to determine the right sowing times such as knowing how to estimate soil temperature.
Sowing the Seeds (Steps)
The soil is prepared and amended and you have your seeds ready. It’s time to sow the seeds in
your garden. Here’s how…
1. Mark the rows. For traditional straight rows, place stakes at either end of the row and stretch a
string between the stakes to mark rows. The taut string will guide you so you can plant your seeds
at a straight line. If your garden or the space you have doesn’t allow for a straight row, perhaps a
curving row will work best for you. Mark the curved rows using a stick or the corner of a hoe.
2. Next, make a furrow using a hoe, trowel or gardening knife – depending on the length of your
rows.
3. Space out the seeds according to the packet instructions. Sprinkle the seeds thinly and evenly. If
you are sowing fine seeds, mix them with white play sand to make it easier for you to see where
you have already sown seeds. By sowing thinly and carefully, you minimize the need to thin the
young plants later on.
4. Cover the seeds gently using a hoe or a rake.
5. Water the newly planted seeds using a misting bottle to prevent the seeds from getting dislodged.
6. Cover the beds to protect the seeds from birds, rabbits or other sly, seed-stealing critters that
find their way to your garden. You can install row covers or wire mesh formed like a box over the
seedbed. Covering the bed also keep insect pests off the seedlings. Once the plants start to flower,
you can remove the cover to let beneficial insects pollinate the crops.
7. Keep the seedbed evenly moist. If there is no rain, water every day until the seedlings have
germinated and become established.
Important Note: Install poles or trellises before you sow tall or climbing plants like pole beans.
Installing the support early instead of later on will avoid damaging the roots of stem of the
growing plants.
Care of Seeds and Seedlings
After sowing the seeds in your garden, you have to care for them the right way and continue to do
so even after they have sprouted to ensure healthy and productive crops…
Keep the soil moist.
If the soil is too dry (or too wet) the seeds will not germinate. Check the soil’s moisture regularly
to know when to water. If the spring weather in your region tends to be warm, water the seedbed
daily. Use a misting bottle when watering to avoid dislodging the seeds. If you have sown the
seeds in the summer, water every day as well. During hot and dry days, cover the seedbed with
row covers or burlap to keep the soil moist and cool. Once seedlings begin to sprout, remove the
covering.
Weed often.
Weeds are resilient plants that can grow faster than your seedlings. They will steal the nutrients
intended for your plants and shade them from the sun. So it is important to weed often and keep
these undesirable plants away. You can use a hand-held weeder or how to get rid of weeds. For
weeds that have grown close to the seedlings, use a pair of scissors to clip them off at ground
level.
Thin seedlings.
Many gardeners hate this task because it means pulling out healthy seedlings. But spacing seeds
when sowing could be difficult to do so as the seedlings grow, they have to be thinned to ensure
that your crops get enough nutrients and grow healthy. The final spacing recommendations for
plants are normally indicated on the back of the seed packet. Get this information before you start
thinning the seedlings. To thin, use a pair of scissors to clip the stems of the least healthy seedlings
at the ground level.
Mulch.
By mulching, you keep weeds at bay and at the same time keep the soil moist. Compost, manure,
shredded bark or leaves are materials you can use as mulch. Spreading sheets of newspaper under
the mulch will ensure that weeds don’t see the light of day.
Plants that are Easy to Start Outdoors
CHAPTER 6: PROBLEMS TO EXPECT
Starting seeds is not without problems, whether you do it indoors or outdoors. There are diseases
and pests that may harm young plants. However, these problems are easy to nip in the bud as long
as you know how to recognize them. The following are the most common problems that may affect
germinating seeds and seedlings…
Damping Off
This is a fungal disease that is more common in seedlings that are started in containers indoors.
The symptoms include rotting seedlings and seedlings collapsing or falling over. Once a plant is
afflicted, it cannot be saved.
In the picture below, you see seedlings collapsing after emergence due to this fungal disease.

This disease can be prevented by:

- using only clean containers and good quality starting or potting mix
- providing good lighting and gentle air circulation. A small fan can be used to encourage air
movement. Do not point the fan directly at the young plants because it will dry them out.
- sowing thinly or trying to space the seeds to avoid overcrowding as this can cause damp, stagnant
air which the disease-causing fungi prefer
- keeping the base of the seedlings dry with a dusting of milled sphagnum moss on the soil surface
- watering the pots from below by setting them in a tray of water and allowing the water to soak up
Cutworms
If you notice seedlings disappearing, the culprit is most likely cutworm.

Cutworms are not worms but are huge hairless caterpillars that chomp the stems at the soil line.
They can do a lot of damage in a short span of time. Cutworms hide in the soil during the day and
attack at night (or on overcast days), chewing through plant stems at the base or under the soil. If
you notice the top of seedlings lying on the ground, that could be indication that your seedlings are
under cutworm attack. But sometimes, these pests eat entire seedlings leaving an empty space
where there was once a young plant.
Protect your transplants from cutworms by:
- raking up the bed’s surface a week before planting to expose cutworms to predators like birds
- slipping a 2 to 3 inch long toilet paper tube over each seedling as you transplant
- making a mixture of molasses, moistened wheat bran and Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) and
spreading it over the seedbed before transplanting.
- introducing parasitic nematodes to the soil to control cutworms
Birds and Animal Pests
Protect your seedlings or germinating seeds from birds and animal pests like rabbits and squirrels
by putting a bird netting or hardware cloth over the seedbeds. Chicken wire cages over seedbeds
can keep most animal pests away except mice and voles. Setting up a fence around your vegetable
garden is also very effective in keeping animal pests off your plants. Keep diggers from going
under your fence or barrier by lining a trench around the base of the fence with chicken wire. If
your main problem in the garden is birds stealing your seeds, putting row covers over the seedbed
should protect your seeds.
SOME HELPFUL RESOURCES
Find Out Your Last Frost Date
You can find out your region’s last frost date by going over to
http://www.almanac.com/content/frost-chart-united-states/zipcode and entering your zip code or
city and state.
Contact Your Local Extension Office
You can find and contact your local extension office by going to
http://www.csrees.usda.gov/Extension/
IMAGE CREDITS
punkin3.14/Steph. Red Burgandy Okra, and Green Zebra Tomato. March 2010. [Online Image]
Available from: http://www.flickr.com/photos/gwendy/4402419903/ [Accessed 24/01/2014]
Sipler, Dwight. Snapdragon seedling. April 2008. [Online Image] Available from:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/photofarmer/2426878263/ [Accessed 24/01/2014]
Jensen, Danny. Sowing the seeds of love. March 2009. [Online Image] Available from:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/57022278@N00/3406736287/ [Accessed 24/01/2014]
Nociveglia. Tomato seedlings under the light. April 2011. [Online Image] Available from:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/40385177@N07/5635101808/ [Accessed 24/01/2014]
Michelle Grabowski. (2012) Post emergence damping off. In: Damping-off of Vegetables and
Herbaceous Ornamentals. Seebold, K. and Ward, N. (2012) Kentucky: University of Kentucky
College of Agriculture
Phillips, Neil. Large Yellow Underwing caterpillar. March 2008. [Online Image] Available from:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Neil_Phillips_-_Large_Yellow_Underwing_caterpiller_(by).jpg
[Accessed 24/01/2014]
Adamr. Hands holding seedling. November 2013. [Online Image] Available from:
http://www.freedigitalphotos.net/images/hands-holding-seedleng-photo-p218967 [Accessed
24/01/2014]
Howden, Simon. Tomato seedlings. April 2009. [Online Image] Available from:
http://www.freedigitalphotos.net/images/Garden_and_Exterior_g157-
Tomato_Seedlings_p5889.html [Accessed 24/01/2014]
OTHER TITLES BY PETER DAVIES
Vermiculture and Vermicomposting
The Way To Healthy Garden Soil
Safe and Easy Food Preservation
A Guide to Composting
Guide to the Most Common Garden Plant Diseases
Lasagna Vegetable Garden
 Table of Contents
INTRODUCTION
Chapter 1: First Things First
Decide What You Want To Grow
Get To Know Your Planting Area
Chapter 2: Seeds And Seed Packets
Seeds
Important Seed Information on Packets
Seed Germination
Germination Days & Optimal Soil Temperature Range for Germination of Common
Edible Plants
CHAPTER 3: Sow What When
How to Create a Sowing Schedule
CHAPTER 4: STARTING SEEDS INDOORS
Planting Medium
DIY Starting Mix
Other Options
Equipment for Starting Seeds Indoors
Sowing the Seeds (Steps)
Care of Seedlings
Potting on Seedlings
Transplanting and Care After
Hardening Off
Get Your Garden Ready
Transplanting Steps
Care After Transplanting
Plants that are Easy to Start Indoors
CHAPTER 5: SOWING SEEDS OUTDOORS
Prepare Your Garden
When is the Best Time to Sow?
Sowing the Seeds (Steps)
Care of Seeds and Seedlings
Plants that are Easy to Start Outdoors
CHAPTER 6: PROBLEMS TO EXPECT
Damping Off
Cutworms
Birds and Animal Pests
SOME HELPFUL RESOURCES
Image Credits
OTHER TITLES BY PETER DAVIES
Table of Contents
INTRODUCTION 5
Chapter 1: First Things First 6
Decide What You Want To Grow 7
Get To Know Your Planting Area 8
Chapter 2: Seeds And Seed Packets 10
Seeds 10
Important Seed Information on Packets 11
Seed Germination 13
Germination Days & Optimal Soil Temperature Range for Germination of Common Edible
14
Plants
CHAPTER 3: Sow What When 15
How to Create a Sowing Schedule 16
CHAPTER 4: STARTING SEEDS INDOORS 17
Planting Medium 17
DIY Starting Mix 17
Other Options 17
Equipment for Starting Seeds Indoors 19
Sowing the Seeds (Steps) 20
Care of Seedlings 21
Potting on Seedlings 22
Transplanting and Care After 23
Hardening Off 23
Get Your Garden Ready 24
Transplanting Steps 24
Care After Transplanting 25
Plants that are Easy to Start Indoors 26
CHAPTER 5: SOWING SEEDS OUTDOORS 27
Prepare Your Garden 28
When is the Best Time to Sow? 29
Sowing the Seeds (Steps) 30
Care of Seeds and Seedlings 31
Plants that are Easy to Start Outdoors 32
CHAPTER 6: PROBLEMS TO EXPECT 33
Damping Off 34
Cutworms 35
Birds and Animal Pests 36
SOME HELPFUL RESOURCES 37
Image Credits 38
OTHER TITLES BY PETER DAVIES 39