At the end of this unit, you

should be able to:

▪ differentiate among special-use fibres based on
their elastomeric or protective characteristics;
▪ discuss the importance of these fibres in apparel,
interiors and technical products; and
▪ assess the suitability of special-use fibres for
particular end-uses in terms of their properties.

UNIT 9i: SPECIAL-USE FIBERS

ELASTOMERIC FIBERS - SPANDEX

• Elastomer: natural or synthetic polymer that, at room RUBBER

temperature, can be stretched repeatedly to at lease twice
•Manufactured fiber in which the
the original length, and after stretching, return to
fiber-forming substance is comprised
approximately its original length
of natural or synthetic rubber,
• Most commonly used elastomer in the textile industry is
including:
spandex; other elastomeric fibers are natural rubber,
synthesized rubber, and anidex (not produced in the United 1. A manufactured fiber in which the
States) fiber-forming substance is a
• Spandex and other elastomeric fibers are combined with hydrocarbon (natural rubber)
other fibers to produce comfort stretch and power stretch
2. A manufactured fiber in which the
fabric
fiber-forming substance is a
• Comfort Stretch is “a term used to describe fabrics with copolymer of acrylonitrile and a diene
about 10%-15% stretch that are used mostly in garments (such as butadiene) – called lastrile
requiring a moderate amount of elasticity” (Source-
fibers
Dictionary of Fibers and Textile Technology)
• Power Stretch is “fabric stretch normally in the range of 3. A manufactured fiber in which the
30%-50% stretch with good recovery, for figure-controlling fiber-forming substance is a
purposes, as is required in such apparel applications as polychloroprene or a copolymer of
active sportswear and foundation garments” (Source- chloroprene
Dictionary of Fibers and Textile Technology)

SPANDEX
• Natural rubber is the oldest
and least expensive •Spandex is the generic name used in
elastomer the USA for elastomeric fibers. The
• It is obtained by coagulation term was coined by reversing
of the latex from the rubber syllables in the word expand and
tree adding an ‘s’. In Europe the generic
term is elastane
• Synthetic rubber: cross •Spandex is the most commonly used
linked-diene polymers, elastomeric fiber
copolymers containing
dienes, or amorphous •Spandex is an elastomeric fiber that
polyolefins consists of soft and hard segments
•Elastomeric fibers, also known as
• Both types have a large soft fibers, extend due to the
cross section, and are presence of soft segments in the fiber
extruded in a round shape,
or cut from extruded film to •Spandex are combined with other
form rectangular shapes fibers to produce comfort stretch
spandex and power stretch spandex
• To develop rubbers’
elastomeric properties, the
fibers are vulcanized by
adding sulphur

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 • For comfort stretch, a very • Bare, covered, and core-spun
small amount (2%-5%) of spandex yarn are used for power
spandex or other elastomeric stretch spandex
fiber is used in combination
with various fibers • Bare yarns are used for end use
applications that require fine
• An increased use of spandex
yarns in woven fabrics yarns or less expensive elastic
increases the stretch and thus yarns (spandex yarns in the band
comfort of the fabrics on knee-high hosiery)
• The fine spandex yarns in • Yarns covered or wrapped with
woven, comfort stretch fabrics other fibers are for end uses that
may break due to the abrasive require additional strength or
action of the other fibers plied
where the spandex is not visible
or twisted with them
from the outside (support hose,
• The broken yarns usually foundation garments, and
protrude from the surface of the elasticized thread)
fabric

THE SPANDEX FIBER

•The word elastomeric is coined from elastic and polymer, MICROSCOPIC APPEARANCE OF
to imply an elastic fiber and commonly called elastomerics ELASTOMERS

•Elastomerics are man-made, synthetic polymer based, •The longitudinal appearance has distinct
segmented polyurethane filaments (consist of polymers striations and specks
which are at least 85% segmented polyurethanes)
•The striations are due to the merged filaments,
•They are seldom manufactured as staple fibers where as the specks are the minuscule particles
of titanium dioxide used to deluster elastomers
•Polyurethane-based fibers, are fibers whose polymers are
characterised by urethane groups •The cross-section of the merged multifilament
(-NH-COO-) yarn has a round, dumb-bell or dog-bone shape of
the individual filaments. The cross-section also
reveals the considerable number of air spaces
FIBER MORPHOLOGY that exist within the elastomeric multifilament yarn
– once again the result of the merged filaments
THE MACRO-STRUCTURE OF ELASTOMERS •Cross-section of the monofilaments are rounds

•Elastomers are mainly available as fine, regular, off-white

MICRO-STRUCTURE OF ELASTOMERS
strands – so-called ‘quasi- monofilaments’, or multi-filament
•The elastomers do not have a noticeable micro-
yarns of merged filaments
structure
•Elastomers are usually produced with a dull luster similar
in appearance to white rubber or elastic tape

SPANDEX: THE POLYMER SYSTEM • Both types of elastomer polymers are linear and consist of rigid and flexible segments

1. The polyether type (for example, Lycra) The rigid segments:

• The figure below indicates the complexity of this type of polymer. The presence of ether groups greatly • These are also called hard segments
contributes to making this type of elastomeric polymer resistant to alkalis
• They consist of a di-phenyl methyl (methane) group with a urethane group at each end

• The benzene structure of the di-phenyl methyl groups with their urethane groups impart a certain degree of
rigidity to the elastomeric polymer

• The urethane groups are polar and should be able to attract water molecules. However, as these groups are
usually well aligned, water molecules are not attracted in significant numbers

• The polarity of the urethane groups does however causes hydrogen bond formation with adjacent urethane
groups

• The rigid polymer groups are chemically more passive and thereby contribute to the stability of the
elastomeric polymer
2. The polyester type (for example, Vyrene)
• The ester groups hydrolyse in alkaline solutions and therefor this type of elastomeric polymer is sensitive to alkalis

Polyether type (for example, Lycra)

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 The flexible segments:
•These are also called soft segments

•They may consist of polyethylene glycol segments and /or long polypropylene adipate segments

•The flexible segments are responsible for the amorphous nature of the elastomerics when their
polymer system is in a relaxed state

•The soft segments comprise 65 – 90% of the weight of the fiber

Polyether type (for example, Lycra)

• When the filament is at rest (not stretched or extended), its polymer system is predominantly amorphous

• This is largely due to the soft (flexible) segments which are folded upon themselves and generally present a
random arrangement

• The rigid segments tend to be more aligned. This causes the polar groups of the urethane groups in these
segments to form hydrogen bonds, enhancing the stiffness of these sections of the polymer system

• The soft segments are capable of uncoiling and straightening when pulling stress is applied. They also recoil
rapidly and with force when the extension force is removed

• The hard segments hold the adjacent molecules together and resist the slippage of molecules as they are
forced into closer proximity and hydrogen bonding causes hard segments to form more crystalline regions
and make further extension difficult

• This also contributes to form-fitting without being confining. When the soft segments return to their original
coiled arrangements, the hard segments move apart, and the crystallinity is reduced

SPANDEX – PROPERTIES
AESTHETICS – APPEARANCE
Tenacity low weak fiber
PHYSICAL APPEARANCE
Elongation high exceptional elongation
Elastic Recovery high exceptional recovery at high elongation
•Spandex is seldom used alone to create
Resiliency high outstanding resiliency fabrics, and therefore is blended with
Specific Gravity medium similar to polyester other fibers to create a better hand and
Stiffness low bends easily drape
Absorbency hydrophobic low absorbency
•Spandex has excellent dye-ability that
Resistance to Dilute Acids high not damaged by most acids contribute to the aesthetic factor
Resistance to Conc. Acids high not damaged by most acids

Resistance to Dilute Alkalis high similar to other thermoplastic fibers •Spandex can easily be delustered or
dyed
Resistance to Conc. Alkalis medium similar to other thermoplastic fibers

Resistance to Chlorine Bleach low damaged by chlorine

COVERING POWER
Resistance to Organic Solvents high can be dry cleaned

Damage by Micro-organisms not damaged generally all synthetics are not damaged •Spandex fibers are relatively
Damage by Moth not damaged generally all synthetics are not damaged transparent. However, covering power is
Damage by Silverfish not damaged generally all synthetics are not damaged
determined by the percentage of
spandex in the fabric
Action of Heat low similar to nylon

Resistance to Ultraviolet Light high not damaged by UV light

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 AESTHETICS - APPEARANCE
RETENTION
WRINKLE AND CRUSH
RESISTANCE
•Spandex has good resiliency. However,
as spandex is always blended with other
fibers, the wrinkle resistance of the
fabric is affected by the properties of the
other fiber
•Spandex has an excellent flex life (far
better than rubber)
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
•Spandex has good dimensional stability.
Thus, it usually does not shrink
SHAPE RETENTION
•Spandex has excellent elasticity and
elastic recovery (the block copolymer
system is responsible as explained)
DURABILITY
STRENGTH
• Spandex has low strength. It is
sometimes covered with other
yarns to increase fabric strength.
It does however have an
excellent flex life
ABRASION RESISTANCE
• Spandex has low abrasion
resistance. The filaments tend to
break due to abrasive action of
the other fibers. These broken
filaments generally protrude from
the surface of the fabric
WEATHERING
• Spandex has good resistance to
light exposure, and does not
deteriorate over a period of time-
COMFORT
MOISTURE PROPERTIES
•Spandex has very low moisture absorption.
(Although there are polar urethane groups, they are
well aligned and do not attract water molecules in
significant amounts)
STRETCH AND RECOVERY
•Spandex has excellent elasticity. Thus, it is
blended with other fibers to produce comfort
stretch and power stretch fabrics
STATIC BUILDUP
•Spandex is a hydrophobic fiber. However, as it is
blended with other fibers, the static buildup is
dependent on the properties of the other fibers
SKIN IRRITANTS/ALLERGENS
•Spandex does not irritate the skin. It is used by
individuals who are allergic to rubber
RETRACTIVE POWER
•The higher the retractive power, the better abled
the fibers are to hold and firm the human body
(foundation garments, etc.)
CARE
CLEANING
• Care labels should be followed for
washing fabrics with spandex
• Spandex is damaged by chlorine
bleach
• Swimwear with spandex may be
damaged by pool chlorine. Washing
the swimwear thoroughly after use will
minimize damage
IRONING
• Spandex is blended with other fibers.
Thus, instructions for ironing spandex
blends will vary
• Care labels should be followed
STORAGE
• No special care is required for storing
spandex