ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

I woul? first like to thank god who gave me the grace and privilege to pursue this program
and successfully complete it in spite of many challenges faced. The journey has been quite
remarkable, and it is a unique steppingstone to many exploits ahead.

I owe my gratitude and sincere thanks to Mr.Muthukumar Velusamy , Divisional

merchandising manager , Shahi exports pvt ltd , Bangalore for his inspiring guidance
and valuable suggestions given throughout the course of this work.

f offer my sincere thanks to The HR , Shahi exports pvt ltd , Bangalore for giving me an
opportunity to do my internship in the company. And also, I would like to take this
opportunity to express my deep acknowledgement to M_!".Gokulakrishnakumar
Balamurugan , Junior Merchandiser , shahi exports for showing me a way to follow my
passion on this project.

I owe my sincere thanks to my internal project guide Mrs. N. Gayatbri, Assistant Professor
(Jr.), VIT Fashion Institute of Technology, VIT University, Chennai, for her guidance and
support throughout the course of this work.

I offer sincere thanks to Dr. T. Palani Rajan, Assistant Professor (Sr.), VIT Fashion
Institute of Technology, VIT University, Chenna1 for his constantguidance and motivation.

My sincere gratitude to my faculty Ms. S. Vinusowndarya, Assistant Professor(Jr.), VFlT,

for her constant support during my course.

I would like to thank the Dr. D. Vasanth Kumar, Head of the Department, VFIT, and the
Management of university, Chenna_i for giving me an opportunity to carry out my studies in
the university.

With pleasure and deep sense of respect, I express my hea11felt and sincere gratitude to all
the people who have directly or indirectly helped me in various capacities in the
successful completion of this project.

Ramprasadh B

(19BFT1018)
 1. Introduction:

· · I rt' ularly about Product Development.

The internship was about the learning of merchandi si ng ro es paIC . .
· d d activities to fulfil th e reqmrem ents 1s
Managing and following up the buyer orders and planni ng the ay-to- ay . .
t t learn with a lot of expen ences. Umt-
the ultimate goal in merchandising. Sbahi is one good env1 ronmen ° .
·

12
· · team which is divided mto Product
is especially for knits division. I was assi gned mto the
k t' n
mar e I g
d the PD team The first f ew days involved
development and Bulk. I was assigned to the brand GAP un er • .
· •1 t familiar with the factory umts and the flow.
analyzing the workflow to get an idea about the role. A so go
art d l ming their tasks. It was a pleasure to work
After that I started assisting with the team members and st e ea
· · • knowledge about the work. Later on, once l got
with the team who were helpful and supporti ve m m g my
•
attam
· • • t h ork with my team members. Each and every
clear about the designation I started manag mg and ass1 st mg e
· · m it was easier to know about the workflow.
w member has their own duties, since I assi sted w ith every one
Ofthe

· • · 1 • anaging which were the two keys to

This internship was really helpful as the ma m role w as ana yz mg
d
an m
learn and experience more. The work and expen•ence of the ProJiect is given in this report.

2. Company Profile:

2.1 Shahi Exports Pvt Ltd - History:

Sbahi Exports logo - Fig 2.1.1

SHAHI
Shahi is one the reputed industries which is recognized to be one of
ln'dia's largest apparel manufacturers providing good quality
craftsmanship. They have their very own factory setup for knitting,
weaving, spinning, dyeing, processing, gannenting and inbuilt laboratory.
Shahi was established in 1947 by Mrs. Sarala Ahuja who laid the
foundation for the very first unit at Ranjit Nagar in Delhi. Today Shahi
has grown to become India's largest apparel manufacturer, operating 65 state of art manufacturing facilities
and 3 textile mills across 9 states (Delhi, Haryana, Uttar Pradesh, Tamil Nadu, Karnata.ka, Madhya Pradesh and
Andhra Pradesh). The Bangalore operations began on 1st July 1988 with 50 associates and 104 machines. We
stand talJ with over I 00,000 employees which comprises 70% women. lt is committed towards serving their
customers through design-led innovation, verticaily integrated operations and our positive social and
environmental business practices. It works on being the most preferred competitive global supplier of apparel;
be the most preferred employer in the industry and be a learning organisation to improve and excel. Their
vision states "Be the global best in bringing delight to human life by weaving dreams of fashion & feelings of

comfo11". It values more about customer delight, respect for human values, continuous improvement, integrity
 '
ABSTRACT

The opporh.mity to experience an industrial internship cum project with one of the best apparel

manufacturing industries in India - Shahi Exports Pvt, Ltd., isa great privilege. Working through

development of new samples is the ultimate aim of the internshipproject.The. project is based on

sustainable mass market fashion , So I Studied about the brand GAP and their sustainabiiity initiatives

and developed a range of products incorporating sustainable materials .Product development involves

various stages and processes to produce new products. The key role is time management and quality of

work. The buyer requirements are met at the right quality and at the right time. Following up and

getting work done is the ace of a merchant. PD not only involves in fabric development but also

concentrates on new styling construction, lab dips, strike offs, testing, costing and many processes.

The 3 months internship was perfect to make clear about all the working process. Specialize complete

knowledge about knits. The learning's about product development is given in this report.
 and ethics and nurturing human talents. Shahi is a people-focused business with an emphasis
on Protti.c.f
advancing ethical working practices across the industry. They are also committed to continuou . lllg and
. G . . S ltnpr
of our environmental footprint across all the operatt ons. The roup 1 s mto manufacturing c.vell\e
a Wide nt
of
. .
Men's and Ladies wear and also in Home products. Shahi group has all the modem uruts equipped .
. f: ·1 · . W ith sta te-
of-the art technology giving the best to its buyers. Its manuf:actun ng act tt les ude Assembly Line M .
. l achines
me
Prima Vision system for print / fabric development, Meyer Fusing Press, Barudan and Tajima Mu\t·1 \.] '
o.ead
Computerised Embroidery Machine, GGT International Pattern Grading Machines, in House Washing \>\ant
and Automatic cutting machines. Shahi is engaged in manufacturing and exporting ready-made garments in
the International market. The company has grown from leaps to bounds from a simple fabrication unit to
present turnover of 3200 crores with the production capacity of l 00 Million pieces per year.

2.2 Marketing Department:

Merchandising is the process of planning the right merchandise,at the right time in the right quantity and at the
right price to meet the needs of the companf s target customer. Apparel mer handising involves a constant
watch of the production of the apparel products. Merchandising is termed 'Marketing' in Shahi Exports.
Basically the marketing is divided into two teams - Bulk and PD and sub-divided into many designations based
on a particular role. Bulk is on the huge end of production with nearing upto 1 lakh pieces. Once the order is
received, they raise PO and start working on production. Shahi has its own efficiency power for each and every

unit. So dependittg upoi1 the SAM of every unit, they will plai1 accotdiiigly atid finally work on the
documentation process. SAM is very important iri order to raise the company's efficiency. Before bulk is the
PD process which includes various steps, processes and approvals. Working on developing new fabrics
requested by the buyer is the main role of the merchant. This involves various stages which work
simultaneously. The main stages were new fabric development, work order, lab dips, strike-off, sampling and
costing. These are categorised and managed by different persons. They are responsible for everything that
happens from the moment they get an order till the final shipment and following up buyer approvals and
comments. Time and cost management are the two important factors to be considered in marketing. Excellent
networking, communication skills and leadership is important for this role. A detailed explanation about every
particular process is being explained in the following.
3_5 Pre- order process

RKeipt of
PRE ORDER PROCESS
1 nspiRtion/mood "oard or
Tech p.ack or GSS or
Garment from buver

stvle dropped & inform bu -er

Request flbric from

sourcin,: If not available

FofJow up for
fabric in use

s ple
indent

Pre.pare costing of the garment

Proto sample

14--...l.f..;..;n.;;;o.;.t .;;aa...,_r.;;;ov.;.e;:.;d=---c·_.,,.. ,
Approval .....
by - .... ava1 I nf o t
trom :iuyer /> approved

' . +
internal QA _,_.,,.-/'.. /
approved

X
_,,/'"' 1

tf notapproved '--...• Physical COP"f of

'-------'--"-'c..._:..:..::.:: roval of '-....._
. con sheet
'-- l!luyer QA,//
authorh:ed bp', ;o
&CEO

!iMS samp-l,e:if applicable]

Physical COPt sent
Not approved to BI fo refe ence

ORDER CONFlR.MAT OPj (loc ed in mo•ie.'I:)

 · • ti n/ d board or Tech pack or GSS or Garment from buyer
.l Receipt of Insp1ra o moo
•• 11 ork on seasons/stores set months according to buyer calendar.
Merchandismg team genera Yw •
•• & d · t may get inspiration or theme/trends from buyerbefore the start of
Merchandising es1gn earn .
• &. fd · mood board new fabric quality, different processed inspirations
the season m the 1orm o es1gn, ,
(wash/ embroidery/ print/ sequence etc.), and color forecast. Merchandising team a ses this
inspiration to the design team for design creation based on the buyer's input. Merchand1smg more
often receives buyer's requirement in the form of a tech pack or gannent specification sheet (GSS)
having detailsabout technical aspects of garments, all specification pertaining to that particular
style,.fabric details, trim details, value additions etc. This becomes the bible document of the
merchandiser. Merchandiser may sometimes also receive the GSS or garment specification sheet
with only technical specifications of garments example, seam length, sleeve length etc. This can be
precursor to tech pack which also has details about quality& kind of fabric, trim, value addition etc.
Toe buyer sometimes may also give physical garment along with tech packso that the merchandiser
bas clear understanding of the buyer's requirement. This is usually done if the design of the garment
is tricky, or the garment has a lot of value addition in it.

2. Check capacity with central planning & feasibility with sampling: - Merchandiser blocks the
capacity for 3 months in advance of the order. But while confirming an order he also checks
with
central planning whether the capacity·of the factory is available for taking up a new order. Apart
from checking on feasibility of factory in terms of man -days, the merchandiser also checks with
sampling department on the feasibility of a style. If the style is not feasible then the style is
dropped and information is sent to the buyer.

3. Check for availability of fabric with stores: - One of the important preproduction activities of
merchandiser is to make sample. Sample is a prelude to order confirmation. For this purpose,first
the fabric availability is checked with stores. Ifit is available then Inter office memo (IOM)will be
sent to the stores department. The stores will issue the fabric and keep the IOM withthem. In
case the IOM mail is sent then a printed copy of the mail will be maintained in the store. In
case the fabric is not available in store, fabric sourcing will procure the fabric after receipt of
fabric work order from the merchandiser. The merchandiser will follow up with sourcing for
fabric in house.

4. Sample Indent: - Once the merchandiser receives the fabric, sample indent is raised arid
sentalong with the fabric and physical copy of the tech pack signed by the merchandiser to the
sampling department. This physical copy is kept with the sampling department. The sampling at
this
 preproduction stage is called as proto
sample.
. a cn·tical
ling. It 1s . phase as the buyer will
-...
5. Proto Sample: - Proto sample is the first stage of samP is prepared from the closest
. le Proto sampeI
usually form his first impression from this samP • . the base size (as suggested by the
. . sually done m .
substitute fabric available in the store. This isu b h"ghlighted by samphng to the
. of style should e I
buyer). Any limitations (call outs) m terms . . d to thebuyer..
h .h in tum is mfortne
merchandiser in the proto sample stagewic
. t mal Sampling QA. It is reviewed
h m e
le is reviewed by te
6. Approval by internal QA: - Proto samp ith sampling indent.In case of any
. he merchant sends a1ongw .
with respect to the tech pack whicht . . will be revised andremade by the
. b the QA the proto sampe1
deviations or maJor comments Y ' . QA for approval. Only if the QA
. ·n be re submitted to the mtema1
sampling department. It WI d. for further action. Incase of some minor
l ·s handed over to the merchan iser - . - -' .-- ' -
approves, the sampe I . - .' - aiL Merchandiser will review the
comments, the QA will inform the merchandiser over them . . .
. • f le The merchandiser will subnut the sample
°
sample & decides on approval or reJection a samp •
along with these comments to the buyer QA for furtherapproval. •

7. Approval of buyer: _Most of the buyers have their representa ves called as the buying
house.They act as middlemen between·the ouy t and the company. Buying house js authorized
by the buyer-to approve or reject a sample. The _proto sample will send to the buyer nominatedQA
in the buying house for further approval. The Buyer QA reviews the sample with respect to the
tech pack. If the
deviations are within the allowance, sample gets approved d updated tech pack with approval &
signature of the buyer QA is sent to the merchandiser viamail but if the deviations are above this
allowance level the aample gets rejected and similarlythe reas.on for rejection will again be
updated in the form of comments in the tech pack and sent to the merchandiser for further action .
This process may happen until the sample finallygets approved.

8. Prepare tentative cost sh t • I .

. eem exce : - Meanwhile parallel to the proto sample the tentatlvecost
sheet 1s prepared by th h .
mere and1ser and sent to the buyer along with salesman sample. The
salesman sample is all h
. usu y c arged 1.5 times the cost of the arment. This is done as the scale of
production cannot be achieved. g

9.
Approval of buyer: . Th b otiate the price with
the mercha d' . e uyer may agree to the price quoted or neg .
. n ISer. This processh . . n the merchandiserand
the appens until an agreement is amved betwee
 buyer; the buyer confirms the order via mail through a PO number. This is an indication for the
merchandiser to proceed further.

10. Make entry in CRM: - The merchandiser will make corresponding entries like style no, PO no,
item creation, no. of garments etc. in the ERP (CRM) in requisite fields and the CO (customer
order no.) gets generated. On giving approval request, a pop up will go to the approver system. A
stipulated time will be given for the approver to approve. Once he approves the status of CO
changes and the CO gets locked. The Merchant will not be able to make any further changes on
CO. But in case any changes have to be made, the request has to be sentto the approver again. After
getting the approval the status of the CO will change and again changes can be made. Finally, the
BI will lock the cost sheet in Movex.

11. Pchysical copy of cost sheet authorized by VP & CEO: - The printout of the cost sheet is taken
and the same is sent to VP & CEO for authorization.

12. Physical copy sent to Bl for reference: -The same copy is sent to BI for their reference for their
record & also sets benchmark for future orders.

13. Sales Man Sample (SMS): - It is an optional process. Usually, European customers demand for it.
Sales man sample is the final sample submitted to the buyer in case of pre order process. The
idea of making SMS sample is to check on the sales of the garment before placingthe order. The
buyer will confirm the volume of the order if the sample is liked by the end customers. It is
made with
QTT d f@tj m qti<?n g m th t h p lc!Th Prc> ss of s l sm s pl is iinilar to th
prQtO sample. The tentative cost is made on the excel and sent to buyer for approval. After the
buyer's
consent, the physical copy is authorized by the VP &CEO. It is then given to the BI for
reference. It is made in base size with all colors. It is usually 50-100 in quantity. This_sample is
chargeable as the buyer sells it to the end customer.The buyer may also drop the style depending
upon the market feedback.

14. Approval by internal QA: - Salesman sample is reviewed by the internal Sampling QA. It is
reviewed with respect to the tech pack which the merchant sends along with sampling indent.It is
reviewed keeping in mind whether comments made during proto are incorporated or not. In case
they are not incorporated then the sample will not be approved and rework on ithappens. Only
when

the internal QA is satisfied, the sample goes to buyer for further approval.
15.
Approval of buyer: - Buyer QA will review whether all the comments made during the
proto sample are incorporated in the salesman sample or not. If changes are not up to the mark,
then the sample gets rejected and is sent again with eoimneiits iii the tech pack If the sampleis
as per the buyer expectation, then it is approved.

16. Order Confirmation: - With this the process of order confirmation ends.
3.6 POST ORDER PROCESS

ORDER CONFIRMATION

Order confirmation mail sent to concerned

departments

Indent for fit sample to sampling

Fit sample •

if not approved

Approval by internal QA

if not approved Approval of Buyer

PP sample

PP meeting
 Approval by internal QA

Approval of Buyer

Release of production file

Production monitoring

Shipment
L Order confirmation mail sent to concerned departments: - Order confinnation mail has details
about style, item code, fabric quality & quantity of garments is sent by the buyer to the merchandiser.
On this basis, the Order Confirmation chart (OCM chart) is prepared by the merchandiser. The OCM
(chart) is a consolidated chart which has details about the Fabric quality,item no., color, country, total
quantity, the consumption of the fabric, details of trim fabric etc.It also has details on Trims quality, kind
and quantity, process details like panel wash, embroidery,printing etc., tentative TNA, Buyer PO, size
ratio etc. This information is sent to fabric sourcing, trim sourcing, Sampling; Central JED and Central
Planning to plan or initiate their production activities accordingly.

2. Work orders are sent to fabric sourcing, trim sourcing; - OCM chart is the prelude step for
procuring fabric. The merchandiser will get consumption of the fabric from the Sampling department. In
case of solid yam (same color) the OCM chart and tech pack are sufficient for the fabric sourcing
department to procure fabric but in case of yam dyed (striped fabric) the merchandiser will try and reduce
the consumption by working on the fabric layout prepared by the sampling department. This renewed
fabric layout is sent to the buyer for his approval. Oncethe buyer approves it, the merchandiser sends this
to the fabric sourcing department. The OCMchart and the fabric layout are the prerequisites for the fabric
sourcing to procure fabric. The Trim sourcing department will source the trims on receipt of the OCM
chart.

3. Indent for fit sample to sampling: - Mean while the merchandiser raises sample Indent for
fitsample. This physical copy is kept with the sampling department for its reference. The fit sampleis again
made with the close substitute of the fabric. The merchandiser will check the availabilityof the fabric with
the stores and if available then an·IOM is issued and handed over to the sampling department. The
sampling coordinator will give the IOM to the stores and collect the required fabric. The stores will keep
the physical

IOM with them for their reference.

4. Fit Sample: -The idea of making a fit sample is to check on the fitting of the garment. Fit sampleis
made witha lot of accuracy in the base size with original fabric or substitute fabric with similarquality• If
th
e fit

sample is approved the later on grading for all sizes can be done.
• . . •
1 mtema
l s piing QA It is reviewed with
5. Approval by internal QA: - Fit sample ts reviewed by t 1e am •
respect to the Techpack.
6. Approval of buyer· Th B •
comments the tech • - e uyer QA reviews th 1 ·th
k . e sampe w1 respect to the tech pack. In case of an
ac is updated and h . . . Y
with the fit sa I h . sent tot e merchandiser via mall. In case the buyer QA is
satisfied mp e, e signs the fit s I · •
ampe section m the tech pack and sendsit to merchandiser.
7. Indentbefor PP sample to sa mpling-.
sa . . Pre production
. sample (PP sample). 1s a crucial sample as pp
mpe 1 comes the guidel • fi h .
. me ort e production departments to follow. An indent is raised by the
merchandiser. This sam I 1• : . . . .
Pe made with ongmal fabnc and trims. The merchandiser arranges for the fabric
8
from the store by • •
tssumg an IOM. The store usually gets the 1st lot of thebulk. The PP sample is made from
this 1 st lot The IOM • k • ·
• t s ept wi th the stores and the fabric is issued for PP sample.

&. PP sample·• - PP 1•s made •m base si•ze 1s::ew other si•zes & colors t•f req•m•red as per buyer's
sampel
and
requirem e t An • • · •
n • Y i ssues m terms of fabn c or tri ms are brought to the notice of sourcingdepartment as
corresponding changes can be made in bulk.

9. Approval by internal QA: - PP sample is reviewed by the internal Sampling QA. It is reviewed
with respect to the specifications (specs) mentioned in the tech pack. In case of any deviations or
major comments by the QA, the PP sample will be revised and remade by the sampling department. It
will be re submitted to the internal QA for approval. Only if the QA approves, thesample is handed
over to the merchandiser for further action.

1Q Approval of buyer QA: .,_The Buyer QA reviews thesample. In case of any.comments the techpack is
updated and sent to the merchandiser via mail. Thi process will happen until the buyer QA approves the
. .

sample. In case the buyer QA is satisfied with the PP sample, he signs t e PP sample section in the tech
pack and sends it to merchandiser. specification mentioned in the techpack. Usually, the fitting is tested by
putting the garment on a mannequin. In case of any deviations or major comments by the QA, the fit
sample will be revised and remade by the sampling department.

n Release of production file: - The merchandiser will hand over the PP sample to the PPE department.
The PPB department will make a style analysis report. This is sometimes also called-as risk analysisreport.
It is sent to the merchant via mail. The production department gets consolidated information in the form of
a production file.

The production file has the following documents: -

a) Tech pack signed by merchant

r--
b) Pattern signed by pattern master
c) pp sample approved comments from buyer
,--
 d) Order confirmation chart signed by merchant,

e) Consumption chart by sampling department signed by merchant & pattemmaster

f) Process route given by merchant,

g) Swatch card of fabric, swatch card of trim fabric,
h) Swatch card of thread shade no & tex no., swatch card oftrims
i) PO sheet.

12 Pre-production meeting (PPM): - Pre-Production meeting is called by the factory planning

department. It is attended by Cutting, Sewing, Finishing, R & D, merchandising, fabric audit and factory
planning, Quality personnel & buyer office representative. All the issues pertaining to thefabric & production
are discussed in PP meeting. This is done so that all these departments are have a clear understanding on
fabric and any other production pertaining issues. The PP file is now handed over to the cutting
department in production. The minutes of the meeting are circulated to all the attendees.

13. Production monitoring: - Once the production starts (PCD), the merchandiser has to closely monitor
the daily production by referring daily production report (DPR). Any deviations are highlighted to the
concerned departments. In case of any issues, merchandiser should visit the factory and resolve the
issues.

14. Shipment: - The merchandiser will send the shipping details to the logistics department 21 days
before the shipping date. The shipping details will have the PO no., buyer name, style, agentoffice address,
the size ratio, color assortment, carton dimension, net weight etc. The documentation department will
coordinate with logistics to book the vessel as per the buyer's requirement. The shipment may happen
through the forwarder, or buying office. Once the consignment is dispatched the same is informed to the
buyer.
4. DESIGNING DEPARTMENT

Product development is the responsibility of the apparel design department.They concentrate on producing
clothing designs for similar product categories to those in which the firm operates.Everyseason,
designers createa new designcollection. Designers create designs based on current trends and
consumer feedback. The designing section of large manufacturers plays a significant role in client
retention by providing fresh designs to its buyers everyseason. Designerscreate a fabric, trimmings, and
accessory library, as well asa
garment library. Apparel retailers and brands with their own production facilities typically establisha
design department to createnew designs.

Process Flow:
Brief is received from the brand/ buying house

l
Designer anaiyses the brief along with the trend forecasting reports

l
II 1t' are decided based on the forecasting reports,
Final styles fo:::: ei ;:an manufacture & the client brief

lllustrat1•ons are •mad e for those particular styles along with the branding and artwork

Des•igner anaIyses the brief along with the trend forecasting reports

Cost sheet for design development is made & fabric is sourced

Indents are made for all the styles

5. CAD DEPARTMENT
Process Flow:

Merchant
J
Pattern maker makes pa. ttern according to
size, measurement &image reference.

CAD Department

Artwork 3D garment
1- Marker making \I.. G_ra_d_i_ng ,
placement

The merchant gives an indent for

planning purposes.

Washing in water

Screen drying ]
Colors should be mixed according to
buyer standard.
Software Details:

Software Application Format

Pattern dsn

Ophite Grading dsn

Marker m/k

Coral/Photoshop Artwork jpg

Optitex 20+3D Avtar dds

V Stitcher 3D Avtar bw

Clo 3D Avtar bw
 6. TESTING DEPARTMENT
The technique or procedure by which items were checked and .
. . . venfied i
detennining the quahty of items by companng them to a set of standardssT knoWn 0
as t est m• g It •
should be done using astandard test procedure. In the garment 1• 0d ustry•t .comparetbe te•st finis.atnethOd of
stin
quality in order to meet the expectations of both buyers and ' e g refers to th dings,testing
customers Gl e PrOduct'
are technology-driven, buyer-driven, andultimately product-dri • obal &annent • s needed
_ _ _ _ _ ven. Quality quality s
high-quality product, but also promotes product safety, avoids re • • . a sSUrance not O t a n d a r4s
ca l ls, red uc e nly e n s u r e
encourages repeat purchases. s consumer ocrnptal•lltss,

aand The testing department is divided in 4 sections:

1. Login section

2. Shrinkage & Physical Testing

3. Wet washing

4. Chemical Testing

Process Flow

Receipt of Work order from

Fabric Sourcing team

Confirmation of Fabric
in house from Stores

Sample selection for

inspection and Testing
 l
Fabric Inspection

l
Length wise shade variation checking, LSV
(Lay to Lay shade Variation)

l
Inspection and testing

l
Verification of Result

l
l l
Intimate sourcing team for Final approval by
further action Merchandiser for issue of

\
7. SOURCING .
• . . h cept of sourcing means sear ching for a supplier that wouldh
In the man ufactun ng mdustry, t econ . e1p
' b. • in terms of cost, quality an. d deadlines. The suppliers need to
you meet the company s o ecti ves
meet the
• cost,
company's expectati ons
d. Shahi,quality and .deadline as w. ell aspe.rformance. In the
regar mg

sourc m. g team manages the purebasing of goods and services for theentire orgamzation. Thus, U n ni t is
considered to have a centralised sourcing system.

Sourcing is categorized as follows:

1. For sampling

2. For bulk- a) Shimoga (KPD) - Vertical sourcing

b) Tirupur (Yam-dyed, Jacquards)

c) Direct fabric purchase from North India & few from Sou India.

3. Fabric quality- for bulk (in house).

4. Yam sourcing

Sample Requirement Reasons:

1. For development samples only fabric is provided & buyer doesn't pay forthis.

2. Salesman samples are shipped to numerous stores. It includes numerous colors, and the priceis about
1.5 - 2%. If shipped with proper correction then bulk production order irseceived.

3. Pre-production s ple is done only when bulk order is going to bedone.

Parameters checked before placing order:

1. Yam count

2. Finish

3. Fabric quality

4. Content

5. Special fmish

6.GSM
 9. EMBROIDERY

1. Unit 12

Total no. of machines - 19B .

embroidery
arudan machine
Sequence embroidery machin-e 3
, Thread embroidery machine - 16
Design capacity - 30 designs
Stitch capacity - IO million stitches
Display - LCD 320*240 Bit color LCD
Speed-200-1200 RPM
Humidity - 20 -80 %

Man - machine ratio - 1:2.5 (1 operator, 1 framer, 0.5 helper)

2. Maintenance

Two months in a year - May and June are slack periods and maintenance of the embroiderymachine is
done during this period.

3. Safety of operators

Ear plug and masks is used by all the operators.

4. Requirements

Needle sizes- 7,8,9,11,14

Thread sizes - 18, 21,24,27,30,35,40,60 Tax

Thre_ad spun polyester
Linings _ Paper, butter paper, tissue paper, water soluble
S. Process flow for centralized embroidery:

Getting the design from the merchant

l
Punching the design - using embroidery design software

l
Strike off & sampling of design

Merchant's approval

Buyer's approval

PP sample/ size set

Cutting receipt

l
Marking

Framing
 [ Production
]

[ Trimming & checking

l
Dispatch

6. Quality

• I 00 % inspection is done after production process.

• The defects found are marked with thestickers

• In case, of minor defects, it is being overcome by manual embroidery.

• 2 machines are kept for manual embroidery process.

I

10. PRJN-r.,...
• ... -11 G DESIGN
Process Flow: •

Receive the design of print from the

merchandiser or designer in soft/ hard
copy.

l
Color separation using software

l
Design printed on "positive film"

Prepare the screen

• / E_xp_o_s_e_t_h_e_s_cr_e_e_n 1·
Washing in water

Screen drying

Colors should be mixed according to buyer standard.

Curing the panel / garment & fusing the panels/

garment (optional)
 ,,.

11. CENTRAL IETEAM.

CentralIDEte .
am does time study and SAM calculation.

1• SAM is required for

a. Planning

SAM for Polo_neck t-shirt = 20 min (approx.)

Batch= 480 min*30 workers
= 14400 min

= 14400 /20

= 720 garments

b. Costing

Cost/min = Factory cost/ No. of operators * 60*8Cost/pc =

SAM* cost/min
c. Thread consumption

The multiplication ratio is already known because ofrepetition of styles. It is based on stitch type,stitch class,
SPI.

Multiplication factor - Needle and looper

i. SNLS = 30

ii. 2. Four thread overlock = 22

iii. Five thread flatlock = 27.22

2. Methods of calculating SAM

►

a. Manual

Time study of every operation

Ex- Shoulder attach - 30 sec at 75% eff.

27 sec at 100% eff.

SAM = Time study at 100% efficiency.

a. GSD Software - followed worldwide

Based on - Get something, put somewhere

Software has motion study codes for every operation after operation breakdown is done.Thiscode has
a standard time, which is followed while doing SAM calculation.

3. Allowance

a. Machine

b. Bundle -No. of pieces

c. Man fatigue - based on

a. complication of style

b. type of fabric

d. Contingency - generally 5 -8%

with normal
In places with extreme climatic conditions contingency allowance Is more,