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YR 24 ISSUE 02

APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY 2024 | RNI NO. HARENG/2012/45083 ₹ 100

Bharat Tex Expo 2024 inaugurated


by Hon'ble Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi
YR 24 | ISSUE 02 | FEBRUARY, 2024 | PAGES 60

CHAIRMAN AEPC PUBLISHER


Shri Sudhir Sekhri Apparel Export Promotion Council
Apparel House, Sector-44,
CHAIRMAN EP Institutional Area,
Mr Premal Udani Gurugram,
HARYANA – 122003.
SECRETARY GENERAL Phone: 0124-2708000
Mr Mithileshwar Thakur www.aepcindia.com

DEPUTY SECRETARY GENERAL DESIGNING & LAYOUT


Dr Tamanna Chatuurvedi Mr Rajiv Rai
Email: rajivraigzp@gmail.com
EDITOR
Mr Sameer Pushp, PRINTING PRESS
General Manager (M&C) Amaira Creations, New Delhi
Email: amairacreations12@gmail.com

01 | CHAIRMAN’S MESSAGE sustainable momentum – 6th Round takes place in Lima


. Govt exempts certain exporting units from quality
30 | NEXT FRONTIER control orders
03 | EVENTS CALENDAR . India extends Samarth textile training scheme until
. Centre willing to procure jute and cotton crop if
prices fall below MSP March 31, 2025
04 | KEY STATISTICS . Government extends RoDTEP benefits to exports
. India’s Ready-Made Garment (RMG) 32 | FOCUS COUNTRY from SEZ units
. India’s textile & Ready-Made Garment (RMG)
. United States of America
51 | GLOBAL NEWS
06 | INSIGHT . India seeks tariff exemption for textiles in EU FTA
. Red Sea crisis impact on trade data will be visible in
36 | COUNCIL AFFAIRS talks for competitive edge
. AEPC organized Budget Viewing and Discussion . GDP growth at 8.4 per cent in Dec quarter, PM
FY24: GTRI
Session
Narendra Modi hails ‘strength, potential of Indian
. AEPC conducted Women Entrepreneurship
08 | POLICY AFFAIRS economy’
Acceleration Program
. India's tough face at WTO Ministerial conference . Charting the global economy: Germany reels from
. AEPC requests suspension of transshipment of
manufacturing downturn
protected farmers, food security Bangladesh export cargo via Delhi Air Cargo Complex
. Tamil Nadu budget announces several policy . Apparel brands, retailers to cover costs of textile
. On its 46th Foundation Day, AEPC thanked the
waste under new EU rules
measures for textile industry- Technical textiles gets government for various support measures to boost
special focus Apparel Exports
. Government of India notifies extension of . Partnership Agreement signed between India &
54 | GLOBAL INDICATOR
. India’s cotton yarn exports to surge by 85% to 90%
Remission of Duties and Taxes on Exported Products Japan in industrial competitiveness
in FY2024: ICRA
support to Advance Authorisation Holders, Export . Jaishankar urges Japanese firms to manufacture and
Oriented Units and Special Economic Zones Units 40 | ATDC CONTENT export from India
. Shri Atul Bagai, Head, United Nations Environment
11 | SILVER LINIING Programme (UNEP) Country Office, India visits ATDC
. ATDC Vice- Chairman meets Steel Secretary
56 | GST UPDATE
. Product Defect Detection with Computer Vision in
the Textiles Industry 58 | NOTIFICATIONS
42 | INDIA NEWS
12 | COVER STORY . Cabinet approves continuation of Scheme for Rebate
. PM inaugurates Bharat Tex 2024 in New Delhi of State and Central Taxes and Levies for export of 59 | REPORT
Apparel/Garments . India ranks 38 out of 139 countries on World
18 | TRADE OUTLOOK . 137 research projects approved under National Bank's Logistics Performance Index Report 2023; India’s
. India’s exports resilient in face of unfavourable Technical Textiles Mission with an outlay of Rs. 474.7 rank has improved by sixteen places from 54 in 2014
conditions, says CRISIL; will it sustain? Crore
. India's exports will close fiscal at same level as last . Capital Investment subsidy of Rs. 1,416.50 crore 60 | MEDIA COVERAGE
year despite uncertainties: Piyush Goyal released in 6,448 cases under Amended Technology
Upgradation Fund Scheme (ATUFS) in last three years
20 | SPOTLIGHT . Quality and Sustainability to define India’s journey
. Duty benefits for Bangladesh to continue until 2029 to become developed by 2047: Shri Piyush Goyal
. India-EFTA Trade and Economic Partnership . DPIIT coordinates initiatives for Ease of Doing
Agreement Business creating a conducive business environment
. 3rd Meeting of ASEAN-India Trade in Goods
Agreement (AITIGA) Joint Committee, 16-19 February
24| SUSTAINABLITY CORNER
. Tripartite MoU to reduce textile waste in India gives 2024
. Existing IPR regime well-equipped to protect AI
hope, but cautious steps needed
generated works, no need to create separate category of
rights
26 | PERSPECTIVE . India and Peru Trade Agreement negotiations gains
. How to make textile and garment production more
APPAREL | CHAIRMAN’S MESSAGE

capabilities and generating momentum


throughout the entire Indian textiles’
ecosystem.

Another good news is, RBI governor


Shaktikanta Das announced that the Indian
economy is poised to surpass the
government's second advance estimate of 7.6
percent growth for the ongoing inancial year.
Furthermore, CRISIL, in its India outlook
report, projected that the Indian economy is
poised for substantial growth in the upcoming
iscal year, forecasting a GDP growth rate of
6.8 percent. This indicator, the GDP growth
rate, measures the year-over-year or
quarterly change in a nation's economic
output, offering insight into the pace of
economic expansion.

On policy front the support to the industry


continues through decision of the government
to continue the RoSCTL scheme for a period of
2 years beyond 1st April 2024 and up to 31st
Dear friends, March 2026 for apparel/garments (under
Chapter 61 and 62) and Made-ups (under

B harat Tex Expo 2024, the biggest global


textile event in the textile industry was
a mesmerizing moment for all of us and
we all felt that it is India’s moment to scale
greater heights in the textiles exports. This
Chapter 63), to ensure export
competitiveness of the sector.

In another move, the commerce ministry


has noti ied the enabling provisions for
monumental event orchestrated by a exemption from QCO for imports of inputs, by
collaborative effort of Textile Export holders of advance authorisation for physical
Promotion Councils with the support from the exports (AA), export-oriented units (EOU)
Ministry of Textiles successfully culminated. and units in Special Economic Zones (SEZs).
The textiles industry had the good fortune to The idea is to grant legitimate relief to such
have received the blessings and guidance of categories of exports while ensuring
the Hon’ble Prime Minister Shri Narendra prevention of misuse.
Modi, who assured all help to the industry
during his inaugural speech. Industry is Skilling is the cornerstone of apparel
grateful to the Hon’ble Prime Minister and the business expansion in India. In view of this,
Hon’ble Textiles Minister for their unwavering the government has extended the SAMARTH
support. scheme for training and skilling in the textiles
sector by another year. However, it has been
It was never imagined that India can host decided to maintain the outlay at the current
an exhibition spread across nearly 2 million sq level. The scheme, executed by the Ministry of
feet of area encompassing the entire textile Textiles, will be operational until March 31,
value chain. With the participation of 3500 2025. Financial support for the scheme will
exhibitors and attendance by more than 3000 remain at ₹390 crore ($47.13 million).
buyers from across the value chain. This event SAMARTH is a demand-driven and
will surely help position India as a global placement-oriented umbrella skilling scheme
powerhouse in textiles, showcasing its designed to make textile workers employable

APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY / 1


APPAREL | CHAIRMAN’S MESSAGE

in the industry. Its objective is to incentivise implemented by the Association for Overseas
and supplement the efforts of industry in Technical Cooperation and Sustainable
creating jobs in the organized textile and Partnerships (AOTS) in collaboration with
related sectors, covering the textiles value Nissenken Quality Evaluation Centre, Japan
chain. and the Textiles Committee, Ministry of
Textiles, Government of India.
On the trade- facilitation front we have
requested the CBIC Chairman to suspend the AEPC will be participating in the
implementation of Circular No. 03/2023- International Apparel and Textile Fair, Dubai
Customs dated 07.02.2023, which allows to be held from 20th to 22nd May 2024. I
transshipment of Bangladesh export cargo to appeal to all members to make full use of this
third countries through Delhi Air Cargo opportunity and participate in large numbers.
complex. This pressing issue has even been
escalated to the Hon'ble Minister of Textiles. Please keep sharing your valuable
suggestions at chairman@aepcindia.com
The continuing Red Sea crisis has already
increased logistical costs for the exporters Sudhir Sekhri
and it has also led to shift of export shipments Chairman AEPC
from sea to air mode. At this crucial time,
allowing Bangladeshi export cargo from Delhi
Air Cargo Terminal will further increase the
logistic related challenges and increase the
transportation cost for apparel exporters.

We have informed our Hon’ble Textiles


Minister that we are in our peak season and
buyers are asking sea shipments to be
converted to air at our expense. A delayed
action would be fruitless because our peak
season would be over by the end of April and
we would have already suffered huge losses
by then.

The U.S. International Trade Commission


(USITC) is undertaking a new fact- inding
s u r vey t h a t i s exa m i n i n g t h e ex p o r t
competitiveness of the apparel industries in
Bangladesh, Cambodia, India, Indonesia, and
Pakistan. AEPC has made its representation
before the USITC team and responded to all its
queries convincingly. We are hopeful of the
positive outcome.

I am happy to inform you that a Partnership


Agreement between India and Japan in
Industrial Competitiveness has been entered.
Under this agreement, a support program on
the Japanese system of Quality Control for
Textile & Apparel Industry in India is being

2 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY


APPAREL | EVENT CALENDAR

PROPOSED CALENDAR OF EVENTS


Proposed Overseas Events & domestic events
for the financial year 2024-25.

A. Overseas Events
Country Proposed Date /
S. No. Event Name
Month
1 Intl. Apparel & Textile Fair (IATF), Dubai UAE 20 - 22 May, 2024
2 BSM UK (London) UK July, 2024
3 India Tex Trend Fair (ITTF), Tokyo Japan July, 2024
4 Sourcing at Magic, Las Vegas USA August, 2024
5 CPM, Moscow Russia September, 2024
6 India Apparel & Accessories Fair (BSM) Spain September, 2024
7 BSM Denmark (Copenhagen) Denmark October, 2024
8 BSM Sweden Sweden October, 2024
9 BSM Norway Norway October, 2024
10 Global Sourcing Expo, Australia Australia November, 2024
11 Intl. Apparel & Textile Fair (IATF), Dubai UAE November, 2024
12 Sao Paulo Pret-a-Porter, Sao Paulo Brazil January, 2025
13 Sourcing at Magic, Las Vegas USA February, 2025

B. Domestic Events
Country Proposed Date /
S. No. Event Name
Month
1 RBSM – Inviting Japanese Buyers in Gurgaon India June, 2024

APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY /3


APPAREL | KEY STATISTICS

INDIA’S READY-MADE
GARMENT (RMG)
INDIA'S RMG EXPORT TO WORLD
(In US$ Mn.) YoY Growth (%)
2019-20 2020-21 2021-22 2022-23 2023-24 2023-24 2023-24
Month 2018-19 2019-20 2020-21 2021-22 2022-23 2023-24 Over Over Over Over Over Over Over
2018-19 2019-20 2020-21 2021-22 2020-21 2021-22 2022-23
April 1351.8 1408.8 126.84 1297.5 1575.5 1213.5 4.2 -91.0 922.9 21.4 856.7 -6.5 -23.0
May 1339.4 1530.1 517.02 1107.1 1415.9 1236.5 14.2 -66.2 114.1 27.9 139.2 11.7 -12.7
June 1358.8 1233.5 804.29 1003.1 1501.7 1249.7 -9.2 -34.8 24.7 49.7 55.4 24.6 -16.8
July 1275.4 1365.8 1065.7 1389.3 1381.1 1141.2 7.1 -22.0 30.4 -0.6 7.1 -17.9 -17.4
August 1293.2 1261.9 1085.61 1237.8 1233.9 1133.4 -2.4 -14.0 14.0 -0.3 4.4 -8.4 -8.1
September 1104.7 1080.6 1192.91 1301.1 1066.0 946.3 -2.2 10.4 9.1 -18.1 -20.7 -27.3 -11.2
October 1132.1 1108.9 1180.13 1255.7 988.7 908.8 -2.0 6.4 6.4 -21.3 -23.0 -27.6 -8.1
November 1131 1058.5 1047.09 1072.9 1200.3 1021.2 -6.4 -1.1 2.5 11.9 -2.5 -4.8 -14.9
December 1376.7 1409.5 1196.89 1466.6 1481.4 1295.3 2.4 -15.1 22.5 1.1 8.2 -11.7 -12.6
January 1528.2 1453.5 1296.43 1547.0 1493.0 -4.9 -10.8 19.3 -3.5
February 1546.4 1477.9 1349.45 1600.5 1407.0 -4.4 -8.7 18.6 -12.1
March 1718.4 1120.5 1427.33 1740.6 1448.3 -34.8 27.4 21.9 -16.8
Total 16156.1 15509.5 12289.7 16019.2 16192.7 10145.7 -4.0 -20.8 30.3 1.1 23.5 -8.9 -14.3

Note- 1) Source: DGCI&S 2023; Data for the month of December 2023 is provisional data released on PIB by Ministry of Commerce on 15.01.2024
2) Sum of the value for (Apr-Dec) 2021-2022 is USD 11131.1 mn and (Apr-Dec) 2022-23 is USD 11844.4 mn. and (Apr-Dec) 2023-24 is USD 10145.7 mn.
Compiled by the R&PA Department, AEPC

RMG exports for the month of


December 2023 has declined by 12.6 %
as compared to December 2022,
declined by 11.7 % as compared to
December 2021 and has increased by
8.2 % as compared to December 2020.
Similarly, cumulative RMG
exports for the period Apr-Dec
2023-24 is USD 10145.7 mn. showing
a decline of 14.3% over Apr-Dec
2022-23; a decline of 8.9 % over
Apr-Dec 2021-22 and a growth of
23.5 % over Apr-Dec 2020-21.

4 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY


APPAREL | KEY STATISTICS

INDIA’S TEXTILE &


READY-MADE GARMENT (RMG)
Textiles & Wearing Apparel update for India's Index of Industrial
Production (IIP) for the month of November in FY 2023-24
Manufacture of Growth Rate Manufacture of Growth Rate
Textiles (In %) Wearing Apparel (In %)
Month
2023-24 Over 2023-24 Over
2022-23 2023-24 2022-23 2023-24
2022-23 2022-23
April 114.1 105.6 -7.4 129.4 92.1 -28.8
May 111.5 107.4 -3.7 142.4 112.2 -21.2
June 107.8 107.8 0.0 156.9 120.1 -23.5
July 107.2 108.5 1.2 134.4 103.9 -22.7
August 105.2 106.9 1.6 117.8 97.6 -17.1
September 103.9 107.8 3.8 125.2 102.4 -18.2
October 102.3 109.0 6.5 103.7 98.5 -5.0
November 107.7 103.7 -3.7 117.0 93.0 -20.5
December 110.7 125.6
January 107.9 120.1
February 102.0 129.1
March 110.2 133.1
Cumulative Index
(Apr-Nov) 107.5 107.2 -0.3 128.4 102.5 -20.2

Source: CSO,2023
* Figures for November 2023 are Quick Estimates
# The growth rates over corresponding period of previous year are to be interpreted considering the unusual circumstances
on account of COVID 19 Pandemic since March 2020
Compiled by the R&PA Department, AEPC

♦ Manufacturing of Textiles Index for the month of Nov,


2023 is 103.7 which has shown a decline of 3.7 % as
compared to Nov, 2022.
♦ Manufacturing of Textiles Index for the financial year
2023-24 is 107.2 which has shown a decline of 0.3 % as
compared to the financial year 2022-23.

♦ Manufacturing of Wearing Apparel Index for the


month of Nov, 2023 is 93.0 which has shown a decline of
20.5 % as compared to Nov, 2022.
♦ Manufacturing of Wearing Apparel Index for the
financial year 2023-24 is 102.5 which has shown a decline of
20.2 % as compared to the financial year 2022-23.

APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY /5


APPAREL | INSIGHT

RED SEA CRISIS IMPACT


ON TRADE DATA WILL BE
VISIBLE IN FY24: GTRI

Countries in Asia, Africa, and Europe will face the most


disruption across industries, it added

W ith escalating everyday attacks and no end


in sight, the Red Sea crisis will adversely
impact trade volumes in substantial ways
in 2024, according to the report of economic think tank
GTRI.

The Global Trade Research Initiative (GTRI) said that


rising shipping, and insurance costs and delayed arrival
of shipments will continue to disrupt global value
chains, squeeze margins, and make exports of many
low-margin products unviable from current locations.
Countries in Asia, Africa, and Europe will face the most
disruption across industries, it added.

It said that the disruption is significantly impacting


Indian trade, especially with the Middle East, Africa,
and Europe. India, heavily reliant on the Bab-el-Mandeb
Strait for crude oil and LNG imports and trade with key
regions, faces substantial economic and security risks

6 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY


APPAREL | INSIGHT

from any disruption in this area. It also asked for offering financial support and
insurance schemes to Indian companies affected by
About 65 per cent of India's crude oil imports in trade disruptions.
FY2023, valued at $ 105 billion, from countries like
Iraq, Saudi Arabia, and others, likely passed through It added that the crisis underscores how
the Suez Canal. geopolitical conflicts can swiftly destabilise global
shipping routes, leading to increased shipping costs
For overall merchandise trade with Europe and and significant delays across multiple sectors and
North Africa, about 50 per cent of imports and 60 regions.
per cent of exports, totaling $ 113 billion, might have
used this route, it said. “The crisis also underscores the importance of
exploring alternative maritime and land-based
"With escalating everyday attacks and no end in trade routes. This includes potential investment in
sight, the Red Sea crisis will adversely impact trade the Northern Sea Route and expanded land
volumes in substantial ways in 2024," the report transport infrastructure. India-Middle East-Europe
noted. Economic Corridor (IMEC) becomes important in
this context," Srivastava said.
This conflict is leading to increased shipping
costs (40-60 per cent) and delays due to rerouting IMEC project aims to create a vast economic
(up to 20 days more), higher insurance premiums corridor connecting Europe, the Middle East, and
(15-20 per cent), and potential cargo loss from Asia through improved transportation,
piracy and attacks, it said. communication networks, and energy
infrastructure.
"Confectionery companies are hit by high cocoa
prices and shortages due to late deliveries from It comprises rail, road, and sea routes across two
Africa, reducing profits. Textile and leather main corridors: The East Corridor links India to the
industries, which operate on thin margins, are Arabian Gulf. The Northern Corridor connects the
renegotiating shipping costs with buyers, impacting Gulf to Europe. ◘
earnings. Car manufacturers are using different
shipping paths to avoid delays," GTRI Founder Ajay
Srivastav said.

The Red Sea crisis began in a major way on


October 19, 2023, when the Iran-backed Houthi
movement in Yemen launched attacks on civilian-
operated cargo ships near the Yemeni coast.
The Houthis have targeted any shipping believed to
be connected to Israel, though several vessels
attacked had no apparent link to the country.

According to the report, this situation is part of a


broader proxy conflict involving the United States
and Iran, Hamas and Israel. In March 2024, the
crisis was in its fifth month.

It suggested the government to diversify its


sources of crude oil and LNG, explore alternative
trade routes to reduce dependency on the conflict-
prone Red Sea passage; and rely on ports outside
conflict zones, like Oman and Djibouti, for
transshipment and regional trade.

APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY /7


APPAREL | POLICY AFFAIRS

INDIA'S TOUGH FACE AT WTO


MINISTERIAL CONFERENCE
PROTECTED FARMERS,
FOOD SECURITY

I n a major respite for farmers, India stood strong


against the lobby of developed countries
demanding a reduction in domestic support to
agriculture during the Abu Dhabi Ministerial
Conference (MC13) of the World Trade Organisation
should come, and in that, we successfully did not allow
any such decision to be taken that would harm any
farmer or fishermen," Union Minister Piyush Goyal said
after the conference.
The developed nations were demanding that India
(WTO). India was represented by Union Minister for make some policy changes to allow them easy market
Commerce Shri Piyush Goyal in the conference, which access for their farm produce. The demands included
was extended for two days to conclude on March 2. reductions in domestic support on agriculture for
Indian government decided to protect Indian farmers at Indian farmers like the minimum support price (MSP),
the cost of facing some diplomatic ire from the public stockholding for food security, subsidies for
developed nation. fisheries, etc.
India has maintained that public stockholding (PSH)
is crucial for the country for its welfare programs like
Prime Minister Garib Kalyan Ann Yojana (PMGKAY)
which provides free ration to over 80 crore people and
the National Food Security Act (NFSA).
To make this dry ration available, the government
purchases agricultural produce from farmers at the
MSP to assure them a minimum income and protect
them from market uncertainties.
The minister also said that some of the non-trade
issues that were sought to be brought on agenda such as
a China-backed agreement on investment facilitation
and EU's suggestion for industrial policy, were blocked
After more than five days of fierce negotiations as they not in line with WTO's mandate.
among some 4,000 ministers, senior trade officials, and
He was, however, unhappy with the US blocking a
delegates from the World Trade Organization's 164
move to seek lower cost of remittances, although he did
members and observers, the WTO's 13th Ministerial
not name any country. "That is India's offer to the
Conference (MC13) in Abu Dhabi ended in the wee hours
world. Many countries, especially LDCs and developing
of March 2 without a consensus on key issues, including
countries, are required to use channels for remittances,
the Agreement on Fisheries Subsidies and public
which are extremely expensive. It can cost between 4%
stockholding (PSH) for food security.
and 8-9% of transaction value. India has developed UPI,
Abu Dhabi's 13th Ministerial Conference of the WTO which can help it bring it down significantly. What we
concluded with the acceptance of the Abu Dhabi were offering to the world was an opportunity to save
Declaration, but missed an agreement in either $30-40 billion for LDC and developing countries.
fisheries or agriculture, as India decided to defend its However, what the interests of not permitting that to be
farmer-friendly policies. discussed at WTO is a mystery for me because savaging
“Our objective was that our farmers and our money for almost everybody is truly a very good offer,"
fishermen should not face any kind of harm, no crisis Goyal said. ◘

8 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY


APPAREL | POLICY AFFAIRS

TAMIL NADU BUDGET ANNOUNCES


SEVERAL POLICY MEASURES FOR TEXTILE
INDUSTRY- TECHNICALTEXTILES GETS
SPECIAL FOCUS

T amil Nadu that accounts 1/3rd of the textile


business size, 45% of the spinning capacity,
10% of the handloom capacity, etc., has been
losing its competitive advantage due to attractive textile
policies of different States like Gujarat, Maharashtra,
The state budget for 2024-25 has also allocated ₹20
crore for 10 mini textile parks in the districts of Karur,
Erode and Virudhunagar.
Announcement of 6% interest subsidy for
modernization of spinning segment with a budget outlay
Madhya Pradesh, etc., in the country. The Association of Rs. 500 crores is an attractive announcement when
has submitted the pre-budget memoranda suggesting the s p i nni ng s e gme nt i s p as s i ng throu gh an
various policy initiatives to sustain the competitiveness unprecedented crisis. He has said that though the State
of the Tamil Nadu textile industry and remain as No.1 accounts 45% of the spinning capacity of the country,
State in the textiles and clothing manufacturing sector around 2/3rd of the capacity is more than 15 years old.
in the country. A budget outlay of Rs. 227 crores to establish
A six per cent interest subsidy for modernisation of integrated complex comprising exhibition halls, design
spinning segment, and increase in the special capacity and incubation centres and commercial buildings at
subsidy from 15 per cent to 25 per cent for the technical Chennai in an area of four lakh sq. ft., will greatly help
textiles, MMF yarn produced from recycled products, the handloom and handicrafts sectors.
MMF fabric and apparel manufacturing in Tamil Nadu 10% payroll subsidy extended for new units
are among a slew of measures announced by Thangam employing 500 or more women physically challenged
Thennarasu, the state’s minister of finance in the and transgenders people of Tamil Nadu domicile would
assembly today. give enormous job opportunities for the people of Tamil
A substantial amount of ₹1,683 crore has been Nadu. A vision of generating additional 100 billion units
earmarked for the Virudhunagar PM MITRA park. In of renewable energy by 2030 is yet another fillip to the
addition, ₹25 crore has been allotted to set up ‘Research State budget and right direction to mitigate the carbon
and Business Development Fund for Technical Textiles footprint and meet the global sustainability goal. The
and Man-made Fibre’, and another ₹25 crore is set aside announcement of conducting a global start up summit
in the budget for apparel clusters in Virudhunagar, during January 2025 would attract the eyes of the global
Pudukottai, and Kanyakumari, a silk cluster in Salem, investors and throw opportunities for boosting
and a yarn cluster in Namakkal. exports. ◘

APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY /9


APPAREL | POLICY AFFAIRS

GOVERNMENT OF INDIA NOTIFIES


EXTENSION OF REMISSION OF DUTIES
AND TAXES ON EXPORTED PRODUCTS
SUPPORT TO ADVANCE AUTHORISATION
HOLDERS, EXPORT ORIENTED UNITS
AND SPECIAL ECONOMIC ZONES UNITS
Amidst global economic uncertainties and The Remission of Duties and Taxes on Exported
Products (RoDTEP) Scheme is a key initiative by the
supply chain disruptions, the government
Government of India aimed at refunding various
has expanded the scope of a scheme designed embedded taxes and duties on exported products. Since its
to make Indian exports more competitive inception in January 2021, the RoDTEP Scheme has already
globally by refunding various central, state provided support amounting to ₹42,000 Crores to more
than 10,500 export items at 8-digit ITC HS Code level. In
and other local duties and taxes. the current financial year, the scheme has a budget of
₹15,070 Crore with an additional increase of 10% in FY
2024-25.
Keeping budgetary allocation in view, the extension of
RoDTEP to additional sectors is presently till 30.09.2024.
The extension of the RoDTEP scheme to these sectors is
aimed at enhancing India’s export competitiveness in
international markets. Key sectors such as Engineering,
Textiles, Chemicals, Pharmaceuticals & Food Processing
and many others stand to benefit from the measure.
By providing support to crucial export sectors, the
government aims to not only enhance their
competitiveness but also create employment opportunities
and contribute to overall economic growth, aligning with
the vision of building an Aatmanirbhar Bharat. The
government is confident that the proactive measures being

U
taken, including efforts to negotiate new FTAs, will further
nion Minister of Commerce & Industry,
accelerate India’s journey towards achieving USD One
Consumer Affairs, Food and Public Distribution,
trillion merchandise export levels. ◘
and Textiles, Shri Piyush Goyal announced the
extension of Remission of Duties and Taxes on Exported
Products (RoDTEP) Scheme support to additional export
sectors in New Delhi . The Government of India has
announced extension of the RoDTEP Scheme support to
additional export sectors i.e. Advance Authorisation (AA)
holders, Export Oriented Units (EOU) and Special
Economic Zones (SEZ) export units. This decision comes in
recognition of the significant contribution these sectors
make to India’s Exports, constituting approximately 25%
of our exports. Amidst global economic uncertainties and
supply chain disruptions, extending RoDTEP to the
uncovered sectors such as AA, EOU, and SEZ units will help
the exporting community in handling the international
headwinds.

10 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY


APPAREL | SILVER LINING

Product Defect Detection with


Computer Vision in the Textiles Industry
computer vision capabilities are revolutionizing quality
control in the textiles industry. These systems can
perform surface inspections to detect imperfections such
as weaving defects, color inconsistencies, or flaws in
fabric texture. Additionally, they excel in visual defect
inspection, identifying flaws such as print quality issues
or garment defects with exceptional accuracy.

Industry 4.0 and Defect Detection


The integration of AI-driven defect detection with the
principles of Industry 4.0 is reshaping quality control

I
practices in the textiles industry. Industry 4.0 emphasizes
n today’s fast-paced textiles industry, maintaining
connectivity, data analytics, and automation, enabling
superior product quality is essential to meet
real-time monitoring and predictive maintenance. AI-
consumer demands and uphold brand reputation.
powered defect detection systems play a crucial role in
Defect detection serves as a cornerstone of quality
creating smart textile facilities capable of adaptive quality
control, ensuring that textile products meet stringent
control.
standards. Recent advancements in technology,
particularly in artificial intelligence (AI) and computer
vision, have transformed defect detection processes, Real-world Applications
enabling manufacturers to identify and rectify defects AI-driven defect detection systems find diverse
with unprecedented efficiency and accuracy. applications in the textiles industry, including fabric
Intelgic, a leading provider of AI-driven defect inspection, garment inspection, print quality inspection,
detection solutions, is spearheading innovation in the textile surface inspection, detection of weaving defects,
textiles industry. and identification of color inconsistencies. These systems
ensure that textile products meet the highest quality
standards before reaching consumers.
Importance of Quality Control and Defect Detection
Quality control is vital in the textiles industry, where
Benefits of Automated Defect Detection
even minor defects can lead to customer dissatisfaction
and financial losses. Traditional defect detection methods, The implementation of AI-driven defect detection
such as manual inspection, are time-consuming and prone systems offers several benefits to textile manufacturers,
to errors. However, with AI-driven automated defect including enhanced product quality, increased efficiency,
detection systems, textile manufacturers can enhance cost savings, and improved brand reputation. By reducing
their quality control processes, ensuring that only scrap, rework, and product wastage associated with
flawless products reach the market. defective products, AI-driven inspection systems
contribute to profitability and customer satisfaction.
In conclusion, AI-driven defect detection with
AI in Product Inspection
computer vision technology represents a significant
AI has emerged as a game-changer in product
advancement in quality control practices within the
inspection and defect detection. By leveraging machine
textiles industry. By leveraging the capabilities of AI and
learning algorithms and computer vision techniques, AI-
Industry 4.0 principles, manufacturers can achieve
powered systems can analyze vast amounts of data and
unprecedented levels of accuracy, efficiency, and
images, enabling the identification of defects with
consistency in identifying and addressing defects. As
unparalleled precision. These systems excel in detecting
technology continues to evolve, automated defect
surface imperfections and subtle visual anomalies,
detection systems will play an increasingly vital role in
ensuring the highest product quality.
ensuring product quality and maintaining
competitiveness in the global textiles market.
Automated Defect Detection Systems Authored by: Umar Awan
Automated defect detection systems equipped with

APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY / 11


APPAREL | COVER STORY

PM INAUGURATES BHARAT TEX


2024 IN NEW DELHI

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-Garment industry thanks PM for his assurance of fullest support


to the textiles industry

-Thread of Bharat Tex connects the glorious history of Indian tradition


with today's talent; technology with traditions; and is a thread
to bring together style, sustainability, scale and skill

T he Prime Minister, Shri Narendra Modi


inaugurated Bharat Tex 2024, the largest global
textile event organized at Bharat Mandapam in
New Delhi. The Prime Minister also took a walkthrough
of the exhibition showcased on the occasion. This
monumental event is orchestrated by a collaborative
effort of 11 Textile Export Promotion Councils, with
backing from the Ministry of Textiles. An exhibition
spread across nearly 2 million sq ft of area and
encompassing the entire textile value chain, helped
position India as a global powerhouse in textiles,
showcasing its capabilities and generating momentum
throughout the entire Indian textiles’ ecosystem.
Addressing the gathering, the Prime Minister
welcomed everyone to Bharat Tex 2024 and said that The Prime Minister said that the event encompasses
today’s occasion is special because the event is taking many dimensions as ‘the thread of Bharat Tex connects
place in two of the largest exhibition centers in India the glorious history of Indian tradition with today’s
namely Bharat Mandapam and Yasho Bhoomi. He talent; technology with traditions and is a thread to bring
acknowledged the association of more than 3000 together style/sustainability/ scale/skill. He also saw
exhibitors and traders from about 100 countries, and the event as a great example of Ek Bharat Shreshtha
around 40,000 visitors as he underlined that Bharat Tex Bharat, encompassing myriad textile traditions from all
provides a platform to all of them. over India. He also praised the exhibition at the venue for
displaying the depth, longevity and capability of India’s

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APPAREL | COVER STORY

textile tradition. number is even higher. He emphasized that the


steps taken in the last 10 years have made Khadi a
Noting the presence of various stakeholders of strong medium of development and jobs. Similarly,
the textile value chain, the Prime Minister welfare schemes and infrastructure push of the last
highlighted their intellect towards understanding decade have also benefited the textile sector, he
India’s textile sector as well as being aware of the said.
challenges and aspirations. He also noted the
presence of weavers and their generational Talking about India’s growing profile as a cotton,
experience from the ground level who are critical to jute and silk producer, PM Modi said that the
the value chain. Directing the address towards government is supporting cotton farmers and is
them, the Prime Minister emphasized the resolve of buying cotton from them. He said Kasturi Cotton,
Viksit Bharat and its four main pillars and launched by the government, will be a big step in
highlighted that India’s textile sector is connected creating India’s brand value globally, he said. The
to each one namely the poor, youth, farmers and Prime Minister mentioned measures for the Jute
women. Therefore, the Prime Minister said, the and silk sector also. He also talked of new sectors
significance of an event like Bharat Tex 2024 only like technical textiles and informed about the
grows. National Technical Textiles Mission and scope for
the startups in the area.
The Prime Minister elaborated on the ambit in
which the government is working to expand the role The Prime Minister highlighted the need for
of the textiles sector in the journey of Viksit Bharat. technology and mechanization on one hand and
“We are focussing on tradition, technology, talent uniqueness and authenticity on the other and said
and training”, he said. He pointed out that the that India has a place where both these demands can
emphasis is on updating traditional designs to the co-exist. Noting the products manufactured by
demands of the contemporary world. He reiterated India’s artisans always have a unique feature to it,
the concept of Five Fs - Farm to Fiber, Fiber to the Prime Minister said that demand for such talent
Factory, Factory to Fashion, Fashion to Foreign increases with demand for unique fashion.
which is binding all elements of the value chain to a Therefore, the Prime Minister said, the government
single whole. In order to help the MSME sector, the is focussing on skill as well as scale with the number
Prime Minister mentioned the change in the of National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT)
definition of MSME to ensure continued benefits institutes in the country increasing to 19. He said
even after growth in size. He also talked about that local weavers and artisans are also being
direct sales, exhibitions and online portals that have connected to NIFTs with the organization of special
reduced the distance between the artisans and the training programs about new technology. The Prime
market. Minister also mentioned the Samarth Scheme
where more than 2.5 lakh people have received
The Prime Minister threw light on the capacity building and skill development training so
government’s expansive plans to create seven PM far. He informed that the majority of women have
MITRA Parks in various states and underlined the participated in this scheme where around 1.75 lakh
emphasis on the creation of opportunities for the people have already found placement in the
entire textile sector. “Government strives to industry.
establish the entire value chain ecosystem in a
single place where modern infrastructure with plug The Prime Minister also dwelled on the
and play facilities are made available”, the Prime dimension of Vocal for Local. He said, “Today a
Minister remarked. He said that it will not only people’s movement is going on in the country for
improve scale and operation but also bring down 'Vocal for Local and Local to Global’. He said that the
logistics costs. government is creating systems like exhibitions and
malls for small artisans.
Referring to the employment potential and
participation of the rural population and women in Commenting on the impact of positive, stable
textiles sectors, the Prime Minister said that 7 out of and far-sighted government policies, PM Modi said
10 apparel makers are women and in handloom, the that the valuation of the Indian textiles market has

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crossed 12 lakh crore rupees from less than 7 lakh field. He asked them to lead and not follow the
crore in 2014. There is a 25 percent increase in yarn, global fashion trend.
fabric and apparel production. 380 new BIS Concluding the address, the Prime Minister
standards are ensuring quality control in the sector. underlined that the Government is readily available
This has led to doubling of FDI in the sector in the to function as a catalyst and work towards fulfilling
last 10 years, he informed. the dreams of the people, as he urged the industries
to come forward with a new vision that caters to the
Highlighting the high expectations from India’s world’s needs and diversifies their markets.
textile sector, Prime Minister Modi recalled the
efforts of the industry during the Covid Pandemic
for the manufacture of PPE Kits and Face Masks. He
underlined that the government along with the
textile sector streamlined the supply chain and
provided enough PPE Kits and face masks to the
entire world. Looking back at these achievements,
the Prime Minister expressed confidence in India
becoming a global export hub in the near future.
“The Government will stand by you for your every
need,” the Prime Minister assured the stakeholders.
He also recommended enhancing collaboration
among various stakeholders within the textile
sector so that a comprehensive resolution can be
achieved to further the development of the industry.
Observing the proclivity of citizens around the Union Minister for Commerce & Industry and
world to ‘Going back to basics’ in every aspect of life Textiles, Shri Piyush Goyal and Union Minister of
including food, healthcare and holistic lifestyle, the State for Textiles, Smt. Darshana Jardosh was
Prime Minister said that such is the case in textiles present on the occasion among others.
as well and drew attention to the demand for
chemical-free coloured threads for garment The Union Minister of Textiles Shri Piyush Goyal
production. The Prime Minister urged the textile said there is an urgent need to give a boost to small
industry to break away from the mentality of only businesses in the textile sector to help them realise
catering to the Indian market and look towards their true potential. Speaking at Bharat Tex-2024 in
exports. He gave the example of the specific needs Delhi, Shri Goyal talked about helping SMEs in the
of the African market or the needs of the Gypsy textile sector by providing them with modern
communities which present immense possibilities. machines and other allied infrastructure. He said
that the textile sector would not just be benefited
He asked for the inclusion of chemical segments through any one government scheme but by their
in the value chain and the need to find natural convergence.
chemical providers.
The minister called for intelligently using the
He also talked about effort to break Khadi out of budget for handloom and handicraft, and making
its traditional image and turn it into a fashion the budgetary spending transparent. He also said
statement infusing confidence among the youth. He that industry and government officials should work
also asked for more research in modern areas of together to help artisans earn more and export to
textiles and to regain the reputation of speciality other countries where we know the market.
textiles. Giving the example of India’s diamond
industry which now manufactures all equipment Chief Minister of Uttar Pradesh Shri Yogi
related to the industry indigenously, the Prime Adityanath also visited Bharat Tex Expo 2024 and
Minister urged the textile sector to carry out interacted with media persons there. He said the
research in the domain of textile equipment global market is awaiting India’s skills, innovation
manufacturing and also incentivize those with new and technology in the textile sector. UP CM Yogi
ideas and results. He also asked the stakeholders to Adityanath highlights Uttar Pradesh's role in India's
explore new areas like textiles used in the medical

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APPAREL | COVER STORY

carpet exports at Bharat Tex 2024, emphasizing the will set the tone for the realization of true potential
state's potential in the textile sector. 60 percent of in textiles trade. It will ensure India its due place in
India’s carpet exports originated from Bhadohi, terms of branding and positioning which has been
Mirzapur and Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh. The due since long. For such a long time we did not have
country’s total carpet exports are worth ₹17,000 an international show of such a global standard and
crore. scale. It's India’s moment in textiles trade.”

The Chief Minister extended a warm welcome to We are working on sustainability and ethical
all buyers and visitors at the Bharat Tex 2024 Uttar production practices by ensuring ESG compliance
Pradesh Pavilion and expressed gratitude to Prime which will give us an edge in the international
Minister Narendra Modi for giving the opportunity market, Shri Sekhri added.
to participate as a partner state in the textile event.
Shri Mithileshwar Thakur, Secretary General
Garment industry thanks PM for his assurance of AEPC stated that, “Many global organizations &
fullest support to the textiles industry international trade bodies including IDH, WGSN,
Better Cotton Initiative, BSI Responsible Sourcing
Network, ITMF, International Apparel Federation,
ITME, BGMEA, Cotton Egypt Association are
partnering with Bharat Tex 2024 to facilitate
discussion and deliberations on issues like global
trends in Textiles and Apparel, sustainability,
circularity, traceability, industry 4.0, innovation,
green financing among others. Several
international speakers are participating in the
knowledge sessions on topics on contemporary
relevance & interest, which will help us understand
international perspective on the challenges and
opportunities in the textiles sector”. The event has
received overwhelming participation from various
renowned international companies brands.

Shri Thakur said, “The event will feature 50+


knowledge sessions with confirmed participation
from CXO level speakers, including representatives
from Bestseller, GAP, KAS Group, H&M, Louis
Vuitton, Tommy Hilfiger, Kohls, Teijin, Toray, Coats,
Nike, PVH, Perennials, YKK, Lenzing, Hugo Boss,
Levis Strauss, Super Dry, Target and many others.
Participation of foreign buyers from 100+
countries, ministerial and business delegations
from key textiles countries and enthusiastic
participation of major textile states of the country
Applauding the Hon’ble Prime Minister’s vision have given the event an altogether different
for the textiles industry, Shri Sudhir Sekhri, dimension and taken the global expo to the next
Chairman AEPC said, “We are grateful to Hon'ble level.
Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi for his tireless
efforts toward making India a developed nation. His
Bharat Tex Expo to be an annual affair
mantra of boosting textiles exports through 5F
vision will energise the textiles exports sector and
lead to further employment generation.” The largest Textile Mega Show- Bharat Tex 2024,
with a focus on Farm to Fashion successfully
concluded on 29th February, 2024 . Sharing his
Further, Shri Sekhri said, “Bharat Tex Expo 2024
thoughts on the Expo Chairman AEPC Shri Sudhir

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Better Cotton Initiative, Responsible Sourcing


Network, ITMF, International Apparel Federation,
BGMEA, BKMEA, Cotton Egypt Association among
others were seen during this Event.

In addition, various Indian and global industry


bodies and associations including CMAI, CITI, SIMA,
SGCCI, TEA, GEMA, YESS, ITMF, ITME, ATMA, NIFT,
among others overwhelmingly supported the Event.

Leading textile States, including Uttar Pradesh,


Maharashtra, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Telangana,
Sekhri said, “After the culmination of Bharat Tex Tamil Nadu, and Karnataka were the enthusiastic
2024, the World’s largest textile Show, we can participants with dedicated pavilions and
proudly and confidently say that this was a government representations.
whopping success.” The Bharat Tex Expo will be an
annual affair, Chairman AEPC added. A global scale conference with 70 sessions and
112 international Speakers were engaged in
Further Chairman AEPC stated that “Our Hon’ble discussions on key textile issues of the day including
Minister of Commerce & Textiles Shri Piyush Goyal Textile Trends, Sustainability, resilient Global
had sown the seeds of this Mega Show in May/June Supply Chains and Manufacturing 4.0.
2023 and it was his infectious optimism that gave us
the courage to embark on this challenging venture Bharat Tex emerged as a Launch Pad for various
and surmount all the difficulties with elan and ease. initiatives and Projects such as IndiaTEX, Launch of
We all shall now reap the benefits of what he had Textile Grand Innovation Challenge, Announcement
sown.” I must concede that this Event could not have of 63 MoUs with international institutions focusing
been executed with such grandeur and scale on collaboration in researc h, innovation,
without the unstinted support of the senior officials entrepreneurship, new product development,
of the Ministry of Textiles. Even the Buyers were skilling and sustainability. ◘
amazed at the meticulous execution of this Event in
just 4 months.”

This 4-day event spread across nearly 2 million


sq ft of area, encompassing the entire textile value
chain, attracted policymakers and global CEOs,
3,500 Exhibitors, 3,000 Buyers from 111 Countries
and over one lakh trade visitors.

Major Brands from around the world were


represented during the Show. Few major ones are:
Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, Vero Moda, Jack n
Jones, Toray, H&M, Target, Kohl’s, K-Mart, IKEA,
YKK, Lenzing, Anko, Coach, CIEL Group, Busana
Group, Brandix Apparels, Teijin Ltd, etc. Domestic
players including Reliance, Aditya Birla, Welspun,
Trident, Vardhman, Nahar, Indocount, Raymond
SRF Industries, among various other players, were
represented during the Show.

Multilateral Organizations and Global Think


Tanks including UNEP, IRENA, Laudes Foundation,
GIZ, IDH, Cotton Connect, WGSN, Fashion for Good,

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APPAREL | TRADE OUTLOOK

India's exports resilient in face


of unfavourable conditions, says
CRISIL; will it sustain?
Despite disruption in trade caused by strife around Imports on growth trajectory too
the Red Sea, exports have fared better than expected. Notably, India’s merchandise imports, too, grew at a
This can be partly attributed to proactive support by similar pace as exports — up 3 per cent on-year to $54.41
billion from $52.83 billion in January 2023. Petroleum and
the government in the form of easier access to credit,
crude products imports turned positive in January,
creation of a task force to investigate non-tariff increasing 4.3 per cent on-year. Sequentially, oil imports
barriers, and tackling sanitary and phytosanitary rose to $16.57 billion in January from $14.94 billion in
issues, among others. December. Import of precious metals, too, rose significantly
in January. Gold imports surged 173.6 per cent on-year,

I ndia’s merchandise exports strengthened in January,


rising 3.1 per cent on-year to $36.92 billion after 1.0 per
cent growth in December. Despite disruption in trade
caused by strife around the Red Sea, exports have fared
better than expected, said a report by CRISIL. This, it added,
compared with 156.5 per cent in December. Silver imports
rocketed 323.5per cent compared with a contraction of 19.1
per cent in December. Imports of pearl, precious and semi-
precious stones picked up 6.2 per cent on-year, after
recording a fall of 11.7 per cent the previous month.
can be partly attributed to proactive support by the However, barring these, core imports (non-oil and non-
government in the form of easier access to credit, creation of gold) fell 2.3 pe cent on-year compared with a 0.2 per cent
a task force to investigate non-tariff barriers, and tackling decline in December.
sanitary and phytosanitary issues, among others. With exports doing better than imports on a sequential
basis, merchandise trade deficit narrowed to $17.49 billion
While the numbers are encouraging, caution is in January from $19.8 billion in December. Cumulatively, in
warranted April-January this fiscal, merchandise imports contracted
6.9 per cent on-year to $559.55 billion, helping narrow the
“Rising global tensions and unevenness in global growth,
merchandise trade deficit to $205.51 billion from $229.38
mean maintaining export momentum will not be an easy
billion.
task. For instance, many core exports softened in January:
electronic goods (9.3 per cent v 14.4 per cent), engineering India’s services exports continued to grow positively,
goods (4.2 per cent v 10.2 per cent), and drugs and rising 1.3 per cent on-year in December 2023, while imports
pharmaceuticals (6.8 per cent v 9.3 per cent). And some key contracted. As a result, the services trade balance remains
agricultural exports have been under pressure partly due to robust at $15.97 billion in December, compared with $15.38
the ban on rice exports,” the report added. billion in December 2022. India’s performance in services
exports has largely remained strong this fiscal and is a big
That said, exports of petroleum products reversed
positive for keeping India’s current account deficit in check,
course, increasing 6.6 per cent to $8.21 billion compared
said CRISIL.
with a decline of 17.6 per cent in December. Also, chemical
exports seem to be gaining some traction, posting mild
growth (0.3 per cent) after remaining in the contractionary Outlook
zone for fifteen consecutive months. On the whole, core While merchandise exports has been positive in the past two
(non-oil, non-gold) exports grew 2.5 per cent on-year in months, it remains to be seen if it can sustain, given the
January, compared with 5.4 per cent in December. global headwinds. While the near-term challenge for India’s
Cumulatively, India’s merchandise exports have declined exports from the disruption caused by the Red Sea strife has
4.8 per cent on-year in April-January this fiscal to $354.04 been contained so far, how it will impact prices when export
billion, compared with $372.1 billion a year ago. contracts are renewed will bear watching. Barring this
“Overall, exports are displaying resilience in the face of hiccup, CRISIL said, forecasts by major multilaterals of
unfavourable conditions. To be sure, they are getting better trade growth this year over last is encouraging. The
support from a depreciating rupee. The real effective current account remained in the safe zone in the second half
exchange rate (REER) based on export weights has declined of this fiscal with trade deficit lower at $87.86 billion during
1.25 per cent on-year during April -December 2023,” said October-January. Robust services trade surplus and healthy
CRISIL. remittances are positives. Consequently, we expect India’s
current account deficit to be eminently manageable this
fiscal, it concluded. ◘

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India's exports will close fiscal at same level as


last year despite uncertainties: Piyush Goyal

Piyush Goyal also said the government measures has led to significant increase in transportation costs
such production-linked incentives schemes and and delay as Indian exporters have to send their
focus on high-quality goods and services would consignments through the Cape of Good Hope,
help in containing the country's trade deficit. encircling Africa.
The Minister said that India saw a scorching pace of

C ommerce and Industry Minister Piyush Goyal growth in its international trade in the years between
has exuded confidence that during this fiscal, 2021 and 2023.
the country's goods and services export "We grew by 55% over a period of two years, both in
numbers will be at the same level; as it was last year goods and in services'. It went up to $776 billion in only
despite slowdown and uncertainties in the global trade. two years. And with growth on both goods and services,
we could clearly see that this year is going to be one
where we will have to consolidate the gains," he said.
When asked if the government is thinking of
extending some kind of support measures to exports to
deal with the crisis, he said the approach of being
dependent on the government to resolve all the
problems is something that now Indian industry also
does not really desire.
“We have been able to change the thinking to bring
the confidence in the Indian exporters that we should
stand on our own feet. We should not be dependent on
the crutches of the government. And I’m glad to share
Photo Credit: PTI with you that they do not want the crutches of support
anymore.”
He also said that the government measures such "What we are doing is of course working through
production-linked incentives schemes and focus on the military and the Navy to see that we can give
high-quality goods and services would help in protection to the ships traversing the Red Sea. We are
containing the country's trade deficit. So our trade also continuously in dialogue working with the
deficit will be significantly lower than last year. countries in that region and with our own exporters,
"I am happy to share with you that we close the and very, very mindful and watchful of the situation,"
current year in March at the same level as last year. We he said.
have a little bit of an adjustment between goods and When asked about the World Trade Organisation
services, but collectively we will be at the same level as (WTO), the Minister said it is "very" relevant and will
last year, which will be a very, very significant continue to increase in its relevance as the world needs
achievement given that most developing countries and a rules-based trading system, which is transparent.
less developed countries are seeing a fall in their "The understanding that is gradually creeping in
international trade," Mr. Goyal said in an interview. that we will not allow ourselves to make the same
Cumulatively, the country's merchandise exports in mistakes that countries made in the rural ground, for
April-January 2023-24 contracted by 4.89% to $353.92 example, in agriculture," he said.
billion. The estimated value of services exports during Certain quarters of experts are of the view that the
the ten-month period stood at $84.45 billion. In 2022- WTO is losing its relevance as the member countries
23, India's goods and services exports stood at $776 are not able to reach consensus on key issues.
billion. WTO members agreed to further extend the
The war between Russia and Ukraine; Israel-Hamas moratorium on imposing import duties on e-commerce
is impacting global supply chains and the Red Sea crisis trade for two more years. ◘

APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY / 19


APPAREL | SPOTLIGHT

DUTY BENEFITS FOR BANGLADESH


TO CONTINUE UNTIL 2029

B angladesh’s continued access to duty-free


markets for three years post-graduation
from the least-developed country (LDC)
category was affirmed by 166 members of the World
Trade Organisation (WTO) at the Ministerial
LDC graduation refers to the point when an LDC
meets certain United Nations (UN) development
criteria and is no longer defined as an LDC. As the
most vulnerable members of the international
community, LDCs are accorded special treatment at
Conference in Abu Dhabi recently. the WTO, such as enhanced market access
opportunities and flexibilities in adopting WTO
This extension ensures that Bangladesh will rules.
receive LDC-specific technical assistance and
capacity-building for a three-year period after the The decision encourages WTO members that
UN General Assembly’s decision to graduate from remove countries from their duty-free and quota-
the LDC category becomes effective. free preference programmes upon graduation from
the UN LDC list to provide a smooth and sustainable
The decision was reached after intense transition period for the withdrawal of these
negotiations spanning over five days during the preferences after graduation. It marks an
13th WTO Ministerial Conference from February 26 important contribution to the implementation of
to March 1. the Doha Programme of Action for LDCs for the
period 2022-2031.

Bangladesh, which joined the LDC group in 1975


and is set to leave it in November 2026, faced
uncertainty regarding potential trade losses
amounting to $7 billion annually post-graduation
due to the erosion of the preferential trade facilities
However, this uncertainty has now been alleviated
until 2029.

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APPAREL | SPOTLIGHT

Although the decision to extend trade benefits to graduating LDCs face, and will help people from
graduated LDCs was made at the 12th Ministerial these countries tap into the opportunities that
Conference in Geneva in June 2022, the timeframe international trade brings. It also is another
was not specified until the recent Ministerial welcome sign that the wider WTO membership is
Conference in Abu Dhabi. responding to LDC priorities.”

Mustafizur Rahman, a distinguished fellow of The chair of the General Council, Ambassador
the Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD) in Bangladesh, Athaliah Lesiba Molokomme of Botswana, said: “I
highlighted the opportunity for Bangladesh to would like to congratulate all members, in
negotiate trade benefits with the key partners such particular the LDCs, on this successful outcome. Let
as the European Union, China, India, the UK, and me also express my appreciation to all members, as
South Korea. well as the current and former LDC Group
Coordinators and the Focal Point for LDC
However, Bangladesh will not benefit from trade Graduation, for their tireless effor ts and
preferences in the US, as it lacks a preferential duty pragmatism to bring this issue to a close. This is
programme for LDCs. commendable and inspiring, and hopefully puts the
work and discussions that lie ahead of us,
Bangladesh’s international trade, primarily
reliant on duty benefits under the LDC category, has The Coordinator of the LDC Group, Ambassador
propelled it to become the second-largest apparel Kadra Ahmed Hassan of Djibouti, said: “LDC
supplier globally after China even if currently, 73 graduation has been a key priority for the WTO LDC
per cent of the country's shipments enjoy LDC- Group. This decision provides greater predictability
linked market access, making it the highest and confidence to countries on the path to
beneficiary among the 45 LDCs. graduation and to further integration into the
multilateral trading system.”
Regarding the Trade-Related Aspects of
Intellectual Property Rights (TRIPs), no decision There are currently 46 LDCs, of which 16 are at
was made at the summit, implying that Bangladesh different stages of the graduation process. Of these,
will not be eligible for patent waivers in ten are WTO members (Angola, Bangladesh,
pharmaceutical production post-transition. Cambodia, Djibouti, Lao People's Democratic
While the EU typically grants a three-year grace Republic, Myanmar, Nepal, Senegal, Solomon
period to graduating LDCs, Bangladesh is already Islands and Zambia) and four are negotiating their
guaranteed trade benefits until 2029. terms of entry into the WTO (Bhutan, Comoros, Sao
Tomé and Principe, and Timor-Leste). The other
two LDCs on the graduation path are Kiribati and
The European Commission acknowledged the
Tuvalu. The Doha Programme of Action for LDCs
WTO’s efforts to improve the implementation of
calls for 15 more LDCs to meet the graduation
special and differential treatment for developing
criteria by the end of the decade. ◘
countries in key areas of market access standards.
However, consensus was not reached on key issues
such as fisheries subsidies and public stockholding
of food during the Ministerial Conference in Abu
Dhabi.

Welcoming this achievement, Director-General


Ngozi Okonjo-Iweala said: “LDC graduation is an
important sign of development progress. Today,
WTO members reaffirmed their commitment to
helping smoothen this process for graduating LDCs
to prevent any loss of the economic growth and
development momentum that had propelled them
to graduation. This decision is a significant step
towards addressing the particular challenges

APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY / 21


APPAREL | SPOTLIGHT

India-EFTA
Trade and
Economic
Partnership
Agreement

I ndia-European Free Trade Association signed


a Trade and Economic Partnership Agreement
(TEPA) on 10th March 2024.

India has been working on a Trade and Economic


first time, India is signing FTA with four developed
nations - an important economic bloc in Europe. For
the first time in history of FTAs, binding
commitment of $100 bn investment and 1 million
direct jobs in the next 15 years has been given. The
Partnership Agreement (TEPA) with EFTA countries agreement will give a boost to Make in India and
comprising Switzerland, Iceland, Norway & provide opportunities to young & talented
Liechtenstein for quite sometime. The Union workforce. The FTA will provide a window to Indian
Cabinet chaired by the Hon’ble Prime Minister has exporters to access large European and global
approved signing of the TEPA with EFTA States. markets.”
EFTA is an inter-governmental organization set up
in 1960 for the promotion of free trade and
economic integration for the benefit of its four
Member States.

Hob’ble Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi


hailed the signing of the of the trade agreement as a
'Watershed moment', underscoring a collective
dedication to fostering open, fair, and equitable
trade. He said the global leadership of the four
nations in innovation, R&D across diverse areas
such as digital trade, banking and financial
The agreement comprises of 14 chapters with
services, transport and logistics, industrial
focus on market access related to goods, rules of
machinery, biotechnology, pharma, chemicals, food
origin, trade facilitation, trade remedies, sanitary
processing, and clean energy, will open new doors
and phytosanitary measures, technical barriers to
of collaboration.
trade, investment promotion, market access on
services, intellectual property rights, trade and
Speaking on the occasion, Shri Piyush Goyal, sustainable development and other legal and
Minister of Commerce and Industry, Food and horizontal provisions.
Consumer Affairs and Textiles said, “TEPA is a
modern and ambitious Trade Agreement. For the
EFTA is an important regional group, with

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APPAREL | SPOTLIGHT

several growing opportunities for enhancing IPR,shows our robust IPR regime.India’s interests
international trade in goods and services. EFTA is in generic medicines and concerns related to
one important economic block out of the three evergreening of patents have been fully addressed.
(other two - EU &UK) in Europe. Among EFTA • India signals its commitment to Sustainable
countries, Switzerland is the largest trading development, inclusive growth, social development
partner of India followed by Norway. and environmental protection
• Fo s t e r s t r a n s p a r e n c y, e ffi c i e n c y,
The highlights of the agreement are: simplification, harmonization and consistency of
• EFTA has committed to promote investments trade procedures
with the aim to increase the stock of foreign direct • TEPA will empower our exporters access to
investments by USD 100 billion in India in the next specialized inputs and create conducive trade and
15 years, and to facilitate the generation of 1 million investment environment. This would boost exports
direct employment in India, through such of Indian made goods as well as provide
investments. The investments do not cover foreign opportunities for services sector to access more
portfolio investment. markets.
• For the first ever time in the history of FTAs, a • TEPA provides an opportunity to integrate into
legal commitment is being made about promoting EU markets. Over 40% of Switzerland’s global
target-oriented investment and creation of jobs. services exports are to the EU. Indian companies
• EFTA is offering 92.2% of its tariff lines which can look to Switzerland as a base for extending its
covers 99.6% of India’s exports. The EFTA’s market market reach to EU.
access offer covers 100% of non-agri products and • TEPA will give impetus to “Make in India” and
tariff concession on Processed Agricultural Atmanirbhar Bharat by encouraging domestic
Products (PAP). manufacturing in sectors such as Infrastructure
• India is offering 82.7% of its tariff lines which and Connectivity, Manufacturing, Machinery,
covers 95.3% of EFTA exports of which more than Pharmaceuticals, Chemicals, Food Processing,
80% import is Gold. The effective duty on Gold Transport and Logistics, Banking and Financial
remains untouched. Sensitivity related to PLI in Services and Insurance.
sectors such as pharma, medical devices & • TEPA would accelerate creation of large
processed food etc. have been taken while number of direct jobs for India’s young aspirational
extending offers. Sectors such as dairy, soya, coal workforce in next 15 years in India, including better
and sensitive agricultural products are kept in facilities for vocational and technical training.
exclusion list. TEPA also facilitates technology collaboration and
• India has offered 105 sub-sectors to the EFTA access to world leading technologies in precision
and secured commitments in 128 sub-sectors from engineering, health sciences, renewable energy,
Swit zerland, 114 f rom Nor way, 107 f rom Innovation and R&D.
Liechtenstein, and 110 from Iceland.
• TEPA would stimulate our services exports in After a hiatus of nearly 16 years, the EFTA
sectors of our key strength / interest such as IT members have finally reached this agreement,
services, business services, personal, cultural, marking a milestone in their Free Trade Agreement
sporting and recreational services, other education (FTA) history. Over 21 rounds of negotiations, the
services, audio-visual services etc. parties worked towards their conclusion,
• Services offers from EFTA include better access culminating in this significant agreement. ◘
through digital delivery of Services (Mode 1),
commercial presence (Mode 3) and improved
commitments and certainty for entry and
temporary stay of key personnel (Mode 4).
• TEPA has provisions for Mutual Recognition
Agreements in Professional Services like nursing,
chartered accountants, architects etc.
• Commitments related to Intellectual Property
Rights in TEPA are at TRIPS level. The IPR chapter
with Switzerland, which has high standard for

APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY / 23


APPAREL | SUSTAINABILITY CORNER

TRIPARTITE MoU TO REDUCE


TEXTILE WASTE IN INDIA GIVES
HOPE, BUT CAUTIOUS STEPS NEEDED
Strategic approach essential to ensure that upcycling leads
to circular & sustainable future for Indian textile industry

2024, India’s premier global textile event.

This MoU signified a collective recognition of the


growing concern surrounding textile waste, both
pre- and post-consumer. It also signifies a collective
effort towards promoting upcycling as a solution to
divert waste from reaching municipal dumps and
fostering a circular economy by keeping textiles in
use for longer periods and minimising the need for
virgin materials.

The GeM will collaborate with stakeholders in

H
the upcycling ecosystem, particularly under-served
eaps of discarded clothing and fabric seller groups, to provide them with direct market
scraps paint a grim picture of the textile access for their products through ‘Vocal For Local’
industry’s environmental impact. India, a GeM outlet stores, eliminating intermediaries and
major player in the global textile scene, is no streamlining the supply chain.
stranger to this. The country grapples with
managing a staggering 7,800 kilotonnes of textile
Through advocacy, awareness campaigns,
waste annually, accounting for 8.5 per cent of the
outreach programmes and capacity building
global total.
workshops, the initiative aims to support and
empower “last-mile upcyclers” who work directly
About 51 per cent of this waste originates from with waste materials. Furthermore, development of
post-consumer sources, like discarded clothing, clear and consistent technical specifications for
while 42 per cent comes from pre-consumer waste listing upcycled products on the GeM platform
generated during production, such as fabric offcuts would ensure quality and consistency, fostering
and yarn scraps and the remaining 7 per cent is trust among buyers and sellers.
imported.
It’s important to distinguish between upcycling
To c o m b a t t h i s e s c a l a t i n g i s s u e , t h re e and traditional textile-to-textile recycling, as they
government entities have joined forces. Textiles represent different approaches to managing textile
committee, under the Union ministry of textiles, waste. The MoU prioritises promoting upcycling as
Government e-Marketplace (GeM) under Union a readily accessible and cost-effective solution to
ministry of commerce and industry and standing address the immediate challenge of managing large
conference of public enterprises, Department of volumes of textile waste. It doesn’t address
Public Enterprises signed a tripartite Memorandum advancements in traditional recycling.
of Understanding (MoU) at the recent Bharat Tex

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APPAREL | SUSTAINABILITY CORNER

Upcycling focuses on reusing discarded textiles by practices, the majority struggle to efficiently
transforming them into new products with a higher recover textiles from the overall waste stream.
value or function. It requires less specialised This significantly reduces the pool of material
infrastructure and technology, making it a viable available for upcycling and recycling initiatives.
option for smaller businesses, communities and Moreover, the absence of extended producer
individuals. responsibility for textiles removes any incentive for
the authorised waste collector and informal
Traditional textile-to-textile recycling involves workforce as well as manufacturers and businesses
deconstructing used textiles into their basic to design for circularity, further exacerbating the
components (fibres) through mechanical or waste problem.
chemical processes. These recycled fibres are then
used to create new yarn and ultimately new textiles. Findings from research suggest that in India not
even 50 per cent of the total textile waste is
Implementing a truly circular economy in India collected in the first place, and of the recovered
requires overcoming existing challenges. The waste, about 10 per cent is upcycled and 25 per cent
country struggles with mixed waste streams. Dry is recycled. The majority of recovered waste
waste, often contaminated with organic matter, undergoes downcycling into lower quality products
h i n d e rs e ffi c i e n t u p c yc l i n g an d re c yc l i n g or is incinerated.
initiatives. For instance, plastic bottles undergo a
long and inefficient journey before reaching the Waste management companies like Nepra
recycler. Resource Management Pvt Ltd exemplify this
dilemma. While they recover valuable materials
A whopping $83 million has been invested in the from the waste stream, a large portion – consisting
circular economy in India by impact investors in of 60-70 per cent of post-consumer textile waste,
2022. A significant portion of this investment – $45 lacks economic value. This “low-value material”
million, came from circulate capital alone. ends up being incinerated, highlighting the
limitations.
Circular economy emphasises regenerating
materials to their original form. For example, a While the MoU signifies a promising step
used plastic bottle transformed into another bottle towards addressing textile waste challenges in the
represents true circularity, while transforming it country, a cautious and strategic approach is
into a toy doesn’t, as it creates a mixed product, necessary to ensure upcycling contributes
ultimately destined for dump sites after its lifespan. effectively to a truly circular and sustainable future
for the Indian textile industry. ◘
The textile industry faces even greater hurdles
than its plastic counterpart. The existing upcycling Source: Down To Earth
and recycling infrastructure is at a nascent stage –
largely unorganised and underdeveloped. The
prevalent practice of downcycling waste and
reliance on virgin materials to enhance quality
indicates a lack of focus on sustainable solutions
and circular economy principles.

Moreover, unlike single-fibre materials, it is


highly likely that upcycling blended fabrics would
result in mixed products. When this upcycled
product would reach its end-of-life, the mixed
materials would make responsible disposal or
recycling difficult.
Compounding this issue is the poor recovery rate at
materials recovery facilities in most Indian cities.
While a handful of cities boast commendable

APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY / 25


APPAREL | PERSPECTIVE

HOW TO MAKE TEXTILE AND GARMENT


PRODUCTION MORE SUSTAINABLE
• The rapid expansion of textile and garment production in the past 20 years has been driven by
falling production costs and rising consumption.

• This has led to over-production and fast fashion trends, exacerbating the industry's long-standing
environmental and social sustainability challenges.

• Many producers lack viable or cost-effective options for more environmentally and socially friendly
inputs and processes. Here's how that could change.

P roducing and consuming garments more


sustainably could boost the global economy by
almost $200 billion by 2030. However, this
requires collec tive ac tion by industr y leaders,
manufacturers and consumers.
sustainable fashion
Technological innovations have made it possible to
produce clothes with shorter lead times, enabling the
rapid turnover of new clothing lines and facilitating the
emergence of fast fashion. This has contributed to
significant over-production and means clothes are often
Textile and garment production and trade have worn only a few times before being discarded. Globally,
expanded rapidly in the past two decades, driven by falling the average number of times a garment is worn has
production costs and rising consumption. declined by 36% since the early 2000s.
These trends have amplified long-standing social and
How young people are shaping the future of environmental sustainability concerns relating to textile

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APPAREL | PERSPECTIVE

and garment production. realize. This issue has been described in previous Agenda
Addressing these concerns is of paramount importance blogposts on the hidden costs of the fashion industry and,
given their connection to the Sustainable Development specifically, the environmental costs of fast fashion. We
Goals. Doing so is critical to global efforts to decarbonize need bottom-up action and solutions, developed with a next
supply chains and curb greenhouse gas emissions in pursuit generation mentality, featuring tangible examples and
of a net-zero future. actionable plans. We have identified five ways pioneers are
creating sustainable change and presenting promising new
ways of thinking that are disrupting the fashion industry.

Economic and social sustainability challenges


The textile and garment industry has a long history of
sustainability issues. Stringent competition has placed
downward pressure on textile and garment workers’ wages,
often leading to low pay, significant gender wage gaps and
limited benefits.
Abusive labour practices have been widely documented,
1. Enable behaviour change
as have instances of gender discrimination and workplace
harassment. Several high-profile incidents have highlighted Several pioneers are focusing on empowering consumers
unsafe working conditions in factories. to make more sustainable fashion choices. To spur such
behaviour, it is essential to make it personal and human. Do
A lack of transparency in garment supply chains has
not forget why people buy clothing: for validation, for
amplified these concerns.
recognition and to express their identity. By giving them
access to knowledge and a number of options, customers
Environmental implications can develop critical thinking for conscious and well-
There are also well-documented environmental impacts informed purchasing decisions. Examples include Good On
associated with producing and disposing of textiles and You app, which revalues your closet and its contents,
garments (Figure 1). These industries contribute 4-10% of allowing for comparing brands and engaging on
global carbon emissions, which could rise to 26% by 2050. sustainability; and Rent the Runway, which taps into a
Many producers lack viable or cost-effective options to luxury sharing economy, allowing customers to rent
bring in more environmentally friendly inputs and designer dresses for a fraction of the retail price.
processes. There are also practical obstacles to recycling Interestingly, the latter start-up has recently received a $20
used textiles and garments, including insufficient million investment from Alibaba founder Jack Ma, which
infrastructure to locate, collect and process discarded indicates its promise.
items. Only 13% of materials used across the garment value Other initiatives cultivate a generation of fashion
chain are recycled. professionals with the tools to apply new thought processes
within organizations. Examples of these are:
The sustainable fashion revolution is well underway. A master’s degree in circular fashion entrepreneurship
These 5 trends prove it at the Amsterdam Fashion Institute. In collaboration with
Recent trends and events continue to call for a fashion the Dutch social enterprise Circle Economy and Fashion for
revolution. We need to move the fashion industry away from Good, this forthcoming course will teach students to start a
the take-make-dispose consumption of clothes that are fashion business while considering social and
often produced in inhumane conditions and affect the environmental values.
environment in more damaging ways than most people

APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY / 27


APPAREL | PERSPECTIVE

Centre for Sustainable Fashion. This research centre at 3. Circular innovation


the University of the Arts London, based at London College A third way that pioneers are making the fashion
of Fashion, has its 10-year anniversary this year. That’s a industry more sustainable is by working on circular
decade of using fashion to instigate behavioural change innovation. From upcycling to recycling, there is a move
and build a more sustainable future. away from mechanical and chemical processes to
ecological processes; in this way, the fashion industry can
Youth Fashion Summit. This is a partnership between start closing the input-output loop and stop using so many
UN Global Compact and the Global Fashion Agenda in raw materials. The good news is that there are already new
which students are challenged over a two-year programme business models out there closing the implementation gap.
to design a framework for sustainable fashion to It is no longer a question of how but when will the fashion
contribute to Sustainable Development Goals 3 and 5. industry become fully circular. Here are some examples of
circular innovations:
2. Collaboration at scale Fashion for Good. This global platform’s accelerator
During any systemic change, there are many programme has supported many innovative initiatives,
pioneering initiatives in the fashion industry that such as: SpinDye, offering a clean and traceable colouring
stimulate collaboration on sustainability challenges. method for textiles; LiteHide by LeatherTeq, a technology
Stakeholders are breaking boundaries that belong to the to prevent the use of salt for preservation of hides in
old take-make-dispose version of the industry – for leather making; Pili Bio, which makes organic dyes from
example, when brands collaborate with partners in their microorganisms, and the Agraloop, which collects food
value chains. They share with and learn from each other by crop waste and turns it into fibres that can be used in
using the same tools for measuring sustainability or social textiles.
and environmental impacts. They aim to play by the same C i rc u l a r Fa s h i o n G a m e s. I n t h i s b o o t c a m p
rulebook and use “one common language”, with a focus on programme, interdisciplinary teams work on circular
comparability, progression over time and preventing innovations for the fashion industry. One solution
repetition. Some pioneering initiatives that spur produced was a digital tool for fibre company Lenzing to
collaboration at scale are: Shaping Fashion, a project to inform designers who use their textiles about circular
bring together the Global Shapers and Fashion Revolution choices.
networks to address local/regional issues in the fashion Fibersort. This technology automatically organizes
industry and amplify impact through a global campaign; large volumes of mixed post-consumer textiles by fibre
and the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, which unites all type. It provides textile recyclers with reliable and
players in the value chain to identify and measure consistent material input, thereby preventing large
sustainability performance on a large scale. The Zero amounts of waste.
Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals “Roadmap to Zero” Dyneema. This strong, lightweight fibre can enhance
programme, meanwhile, connects the textile, leather and the durability and performance of apparel to ensure a
footwear industry to eliminate the use of hazardous longer lifetime.
chemicals.
4. Transparency
A fourth realm of innovation is in fashion industry
transparency. The key question is: how do we apply
transparency as a tool for change? Stakeholders want to
prevent exhaustive transparency efforts without a positive
impact on the real world. What is required is transparency
with intent, whereby players have access to and
comprehension of information for a more sustainable and
trusted value chain. Examples of transparency initiatives
include: A Transparent Company, a start-up applying
blockchain technology to create value chain transparency;
the Fashion Transparency Index, for which, every year,
Fashion Revolution ranks 150 of the largest brands on the
extent to which they disclose information on social and
environmental practices; and EON-ID, which uses the

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APPAREL | PERSPECTIVE

internet of things to connect an item of clothing to all steps Examples include:


in the value chain and provide the information required to Enschede Textielstad. This initiative is reviving
foster sustainable innovation. weaving in the city of Enschede, the Netherlands. They use
old looms and recycled textiles but in new ways, offering
circular textile solutions.
Mycotex. This mushroom-based textile can be grown
into custom-fitted moulds. The technology prevents large
amounts of landfill, is fully biodegradable and even has
potential benefits in terms of skin-caring features.
Diamond Foundry. These man-made diamonds are
produced through reactor plasma technology, without the
environmental or human harm involved in conventionally
mined diamonds.
Bolt Threads. This company creates bio-fabricated silk
by mimicking spider silk production, and a leather-like
material based on mycelium, the vegetative component of
mushrooms.
Craftsmanship in Iloilo. A start-up in the Philippines’
former textile capital is working on creating a directory
5. The modern-day makers for mananahi, or local dressmakers.
You cannot take the maker out of fashion. That is why a All in all, these are exciting times for the fashion
fifth area of pioneering stems from exactly that group. industry. The fashion revolution is well underway, and
Modern-day makers are artisans, researchers, engineers every day we see new pioneers being born. Keep an eye out
and pioneers. They are actively reviving and cherishing the for them: before you know it, sustainable fashion will no
most traditional local and regional techniques, as well as longer be just a trend but the new normal. ◘
developing cutting-edge technologies or merging both the
old and the new. Source: World Economic Forum

APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY / 29


APPAREL | NEXT FRONTIER

CENTRE WILLING TO PROCURE JUTE AND


COTTON CROP IF PRICES FALL BELOW MSP

The minister further said that the Centre is working “Registering on the e-marketplace will boost the
towards increasing the production of jute and cotton visibility of artisans and help promote businesses
and is willing to provide quality seeds and fertilisers enhancing their income,” said Shri Goyal.
for quality produce to fulfil the vision of farm to He further said that the government would try to
foreign exports. facilitate the GeM-registered businesses to be on-boarded
on major e-commerce websites in the country and push for

T he government is willing to procure the harvest of registering their businesses on foreign websites
jute and cotton from farmers if the market price is prioritising handicraft and handloom.
lower than the Minimum Support Price (MSP), The minister noted that the support of the officials to the
Union Minister Shri Piyush Goyal said. The minister further handicraft and handloom businesses, especially small
said that the Centre is working towards increasing the enterprises, would help them create an identity through
production of jute and cotton and is willing to provide their craft on the GeM website, the Textiles Ministry stated.
quality seeds and fertilisers for quality produce to fulfil the With a special emphasis on promoting the ‘Made in
vision of farm to foreign exports. India’ initiative, Goyal urged the officials to devise ways for
the handicraft beneficiaries to gain from the ‘Handmade in
The Union Minister for Textiles, Consumer India’ label and register greater income on their products.
Affairs & Food & Public Distribution and The Minister noted that businesses selling machine-
Commerce & Industry made the remarks made products under the ‘Handmade in India’ label should
during his interaction with beneficiaries of the be penalised and said that the government would take firm
Textile Sector and also urged them to be vocal action to protect the handicraft and handloom sectors.
for local. He urged the textile sector to collectively work towards
“Be vocal for local and take local to global. That’s the technological innovation that would ease the lives of the
clarion call from Prime Minister Narendra Modi to artisans and weavers and provide an impetus to their
showcase our products on the world stage”, Shri Goyal said. income.
The minister further noted that ramping up textile Stressing on the need to redefine and present the
production in the country will spur income, open up handicraft and handloom at the world stage, the Minister
employment opportunities and play a vital role in making said that the industry should work towards improving the
the country ‘Atmanirbhar’ as well. quality and packaging of the textile products to increase the
He urged the artisans to register their businesses on the brand value and income of the artisans and weavers.
Government e-Marketplace (GeM). Goyal also said he has He also said that with the convergence of schemes like
instructed GeM to register all artisans and weavers PM-Suryoday Yojana (free solar-powered rooftop scheme),
connected with handicraft and handloom without any Samarth schemes and benefits from textile schemes would
registration fee. help the artisans benefit their businesses and transform
their income. ◘

30 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY


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UNCOVER YOUR FUTURE MARKET GROWTH!

BOOK YOUR SPACE


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Dubai, UAE
20th -22 nd May, 2024
THE LAST DATE TO APPLY IS 1st APRIL 2024

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APPAREL | FOCUS COUNTRY

United States of America


The relationship between the United States and India is one of the most strategic and consequential
of the 21st century. The United States supports India's emergence as a leading global power and a
vital partner in promoting a peaceful, stable, and prosperous Indo-Pacific region.

Multilateral Cooperation
· India and the United States cooperate closely in multilateral organizations and fora, including the
United Nations, G20, Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN)-related fora, International
Monetary Fund, World Bank, and World Trade Organization.
· The United States recognizes India's successful G20 presidency, including hosting the September G20
summit. The summit delivered key outcomes including efforts towards a new era of connectivity from
Europe to Asia, stimulating economic development and a commitment to larger and more effective
multilateral development banks.
· Together with Australia and Japan, the United States and India convene as the Quad, a diplomatic
network, to promote a free and open Indo-Pacific.
· India is also one of 12 countries partnering with the United States on the Indo-Pacific Economic
Framework for Prosperity to make our economies more connected, resilient, clean, and fair. The United
States and India look forward to the finalization of the September 7 IPEF Supply Chain Agreement.
· India is a member of the Indian Ocean Rim Association, at which the United States is a dialogue partner,
and which convened in October 2023 in Colombo.

32 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY


APPAREL | FOCUS COUNTRY

Economic Overview:

High-income, diversified North American economy; NATO leader; largest importer and second-largest
exporter; home to leading financial exchanges; low interest rates.

♦ Economic Indicators:
Indicators Value (in USD)
Real GDP (Purchasing Power Parity), 2021 est. 21.132 trillion
GDP (Official Exchange Rate), 2019 est. 21,433.23 Bn.
Real GDP (Per Capita), 2021 est. 63,700
Real GDP (Growth Rate), 2021 est. 5.95 %
Inflation Rate, 2021 est. 4.7 %
Source: The World Factbook – CIA 2024

♦ Exchange Rate:
Indicators Value (in USD)
Indian Rupees (INR) per USA Dollar (USD) 83.00
Source: X-Rates 2024 (Feb 2024 average)

♦ Climate:
Mostly temperate, but tropical in Hawaii and Florida, arctic in Alaska, semiarid in the great plains west
of the Mississippi River, and arid in the Great Basin of the southwest; low winter temperatures in the
northwest are ameliorated occasionally in January and February by warm chinook winds from the eastern
slopes of the Rocky Mountains.

♦ Average Tariff for India:


14.3 % for HS Code 61; 10.7 % for HS Code 62

♦ USA's Apparel Trade:

USA's RMG Import from World and India


2020 2021 2022 % Change 2022
over 2021
USA's RMG imports from World, (In USD Mn.) 71165.7 87287.4 105352.8 20.7
USA's RMG imports from India, (In USD Mn.) 3201.6 4490.7 6004.9 33.7
India's Share in USA's total RMG imports
4.5 5.1 5.7 10.8
from World, %
Source: UN Comtrade 2024

The above table shows that USA’s RMG import from USD 6004.9 mn, registering a growth of 33.7 % as
the World were to the tune of USD 105352.8 mn in compared to 2021. India’s percentage share in USA’s
2022 showing a growth of 20.7 % as compared to RMG import from the World has increased to 5.7 %
2021. RMG import from India has also increased to in 2022. ◘

APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY / 33


APPAREL | FOCUS COUNTRY

♦ Top RMG Supplier to USA:

Top RMG Supplier to USA and India's Position


Imported value
Countries in 2022 (in USD mn) % Share
Position
World 105352.8 100
1 China 23647.6 22.4
2 Viet Nam 18866.2 17.9
3 Bangladesh 9826.4 9.3
4 India 6004.9 5.7
5 Indonesia 5920.8 5.6
Source: UN Comtrade, 2024

The above table shows that China has remained a top supplier of RMG to USA with 22.4 % share in 2022. India is the
4th largest supplier of RMG to USA with 5.7 % share. Vietnam and Bangladesh has a share of 17.9 % and 9.3 %
respectively. ◘

♦ USA's top 10 RMG Products Import from World vs India's share:


Top 10 RMG products imported by USA from World
Imported from Imported from India's
Product label World in 2022 India in 2022 Share
HS (in USD mn) (in USD mn) in %
S. No. Code
Total RMG 105352.8 6004.9 5.7
Sum of Top 10 47729.2 1902.9 4.0

1 611020 Jerseys, pullovers, cardigans, waistcoats and similar articles, of cotton, knitted 10244.2 618.0 6.0
or crocheted ...

2 611030 Jerseys, pullovers, cardigans, waistcoats and similar articles, of man-made 6607.2 28.7 0.4
fibres, knitted ...
3 610910 T-shirts, singlets and other vests of cotton, knitted or crocheted 6565.5 477.2 7.3

4 620342 Men's or boys' trousers, bib and brace overalls, breeches and shorts, of cotton 6122.4 199.9 3.3
(excluding ...
620462 Women's or girls' trousers, bib and brace overalls, breeches and shorts of cotton 5294.7 147.7 2.8
5 (excluding ...
621210 Brassieres of all types of textile materials, whether or not elasticated, 2822.3 60.9 2.2
6 incl. knitted or ...
610990 T-shirts, singlets and other vests of textile materials, knitted or crocheted 2737.8 27.1 1.0
7 (excluding cotton)
Men's or boys' trousers, bib and brace overalls, breeches and shorts of synthetic 2565.6 32.1 1.3
8 620343 fibres (excluding ...
Women's or girls' trousers, bib and brace overalls, breeches and shorts of 2433.9 8.6 0.4
9 610463 synthetic fibres, ...
Men's or boys' shirts of cotton (excluding knitted or crocheted, nightshirts, 2335.7 302.7 13.0
10 620520 singlets and ...
Source: UN Comtrade 2024

The above table shows USA’s top 10 RMG products imported from the World vis-à-vis from India and India’s % share in those
top 10 products. The top 10 products imported from the World were to the tune of USD 47729.2 mn. in 2022 and import from
India of these top 10 products were to the tune of USD 1902.9 mn. India has 4.0 % share in USA’s top 10
products import from the World.

The top products imported by USA from the World includes (i) Jerseys, pullovers, cardigans, waistcoats and similar
articles, of cotton, knitted or crocheted; (ii) Jerseys, pullovers, cardigans, waistcoats and similar articles, of man-made
fibres, knitted; (iii) T-shirts, singlets and other vests of cotton, knitted or crocheted. ◘

34 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY


APPAREL | FOCUS COUNTRY

♦ USA's top 10 RMG products import from India:


Top 10 RMG Products Imported by USA from India
Import from India, % Share
Product label 2022 (in USD mn) in 2022
HS
S. No.
Code Total RMG 6004.9 100.0
Sum of Top 10 3369.6 56.1
1 611020 Jerseys, pullovers, cardigans, waistcoats and similar articles, of cotton, knitted 618.0 10.3
or crocheted ...
2 610910 T-shirts, singlets and other vests of cotton, knitted or crocheted 477.2 7.9

3 620442 Women's or girls' dresses of cotton (excluding knitted or crocheted


and petticoats) 453.8 7.6

4 Babies' garments and clothing accessories of cotton, knitted or crocheted


611120 (excluding hats) 412.2 6.9

5 Women's or girls' blouses, shirts and shirt-blouses of cotton


620630 (excluding knitted or crocheted ... 349.1 5.8

6 Men's or boys' shirts of cotton (excluding knitted or crocheted, nightshirts,


620520 singlets and ... 302.7 5.0

7 Men's or boys' shirts of cotton, knitted or crocheted (excluding


610510 nightshirts, T-shirts, singlets ... 224.1 3.7

8 Men's or boys' trousers, bib and brace overalls, breeches and shorts,
620342 of cotton (excluding ... 199.9 3.3

9 610711 Men's or boys' underpants and briefs of cotton, knitted or crocheted 169.7 2.8

10 Women's or girls' tracksuits and other garments, n.e.s. of cotton


621142 (excluding knitted or crocheted) 162.8 2.7

Source: UN Comtrade 2024

The above table shows USA’s top 10 RMG products imported from India. USA’s top 10 products imported from India
were to the tune of USD 3369.6 mn with 56.1 % share in USA’s total RMG import from India.

The top products imported by USA from India includes (i) Jerseys, pullovers, cardigans, waistcoats and similar
articles, of cotton, knitted or crocheted; (ii) T-shirts, singlets and other vests of cotton, knitted or crocheted; (iii)
Women's or girls' dresses of cotton. ◘

APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY / 35


APPAREL | COUNCIL AFFAIRS

AEPC organized Budget


Viewing and Discussion Session

I n its policy advocacy and awareness generation


efforts, AEPC organized the “Budget Viewing and
Discussion Session” at Conference Hall, Apparel
House, Gurugram on the occasion of the Union Budget
2024-25 being presented by the Hon’ble Finance Minister,
The following experts participated in the event: Shri
Bipin Sapra, Partner, Tax and Regulatory Services, Ernst &
Young LLP (EY); Shri Atul Sharma, Co-founder, Sarvada
Legal; Professor Nisha Taneja, Lead for Trade, Investment
and External Relations (TIER), Indian Council for Research
Smt. Nirmala Sitharaman, on 1st February 2024. The on International Economic Relations (ICRIER); Ms. Sakshi
program consisted discussion among experts and industry Singhal, Founder, Sakshi Law Associates; Shri Manan
representatives. Agarwal, CA, Partner, KrayMan Consultants LLP; Dr Anjali
The session deliberated on: does Union Budget have a Tandon, Associate Professor, Institute for Studies in
5–10-year horizon to enable industry to plan and invest? Industrial Development (ISID); Shri Chirag Jain, Partner,
Does this budget help India to develop as an apparel DSK Legal.
manufacturing and export hub led by industry leaders and Around 25 participants attended the event physically
international brands? What is there in the Union Budget for and around 100 participants attended the event virtually. ◘
the R&D, technology upgradation, innovation and
sustainability? What specific steps can Budget might take to
invite investments and joint ventures (domestic and
overseas) in quality raw material manufacturing?
Shri Mithileshwar Thakur, Secretary General, AEPC
opened the floor by stating that this budget is being
presented at a crucial time of global apparel trade reduction
throughout 2023, which is caused by a confluence of factors
including supply chain disruptions, geopolitical tensions,
slowing world economic growth, inflation, and high
interest rates in many readymade garment importing
markets. At this juncture, important steps to enhance
apparel export would be crucial to maintain the growth
trajectory of the Indian apparel export sector in the coming
financial year.

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APPAREL | COUNCIL AFFAIRS

AEPC conducted Women understanding materials & machines for manufacturing,


distribution of RMG, building contacts, networking
Entrepreneurship Acceleration management, industrial visit, etc ◘
Program

A EPC in joint collaboration with Indira Gandhi


Delhi Technical University for Women (IGDTUW)
and Anveshan Foundation conducted a Women
Entrepreneurship Acceleration Program on 'Business
Development & Growth in Readymade Garment Industry'
from 5th February till 16th February 2024 at the IGDTUW
Campus, Kashmere Gate, Delhi.
This free of cost program was funded by the Ministry of
MSME. Total 22 women entrepreneurs spanning from
different parts of the country participated in the program.
The program attracted applications from 90 applicants
who were later interviewed by an independent panel. The
program included lectures on a number of topics of
contemporary relevance to ready made garment industry.
Topics covered during the training sessions were
overview of RMG industry, entrepreneurial & startup
ecosystem of India, incorporation of a company, global
challenges, compliances, market research, major trends,

AEPC requests suspension of an excessive increase in air freight rates, delay in handling
and processing of export cargo and severe congestion at
transshipment of Bangladesh the Cargo Terminal at the IGI Airport, Delhi; resulting in
export cargo via Delhi Air Cargo exports of Indian apparel exports through Delhi air cargo
Complex complex becoming uncompetitive,” Chairman AEPC Shri
Sekhri added.
AEPC therefore, has written to the Chairman CBIC
- It is hurting our competitiveness: requesting suspension of implementation of vide Circular
No. 03/2023-Customs dated 07.02.2023 which has
Chairman AEPC allowed the transshipment of Bangladesh export cargo to
third countries through Delhi air cargo complex also.

A pparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC) has


requested the government (CBIC) to suspend
the implementation of Circular No. 03/2023-
Customs dated 07.02.2023 which allows transshipment
of Bangladesh export cargo to third countries through
Earlier, such transshipment of Bangladesh export cargo
was allowed only through Kolkata Air Cargo complex in
ter ms of Circ ular No. 29/2020- Customs dated
22.06.2020. ◘

Delhi Air Cargo complex.


Commenting on the issue Shri Sudhir Sekhri Chairman
AEPC said, “The continuing Red Sea crisis has already
increased logistical costs for the exporters and it has also
led to shift of export shipments from sea to air mode. At
this crucial time, allowing Bangladeshi export cargo from
Delhi Air Cargo Terminal will further increase the
logistical challenges and increase the transportation cost
for apparel exporters.”
“Almost 20-30 loaded trucks come to Delhi everyday
which slows down cargo smooth flow and this glut is being
taken undue advantage of by the airlines. This has led to

APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY / 37


APPAREL | COUNCIL AFFAIRS

ON ITS 46TH FOUNDATION DAY, AEPC


THANKED THE GOVERNMENT FOR
VARIOUS SUPPORT MEASURES TO
BOOST APPAREL EXPORTS
- The government incentives in budget, FTAs, PLI, RoSCTL, PM MITRA, etc. will
help apparel industry focus on market and product diversification: Chairman AEPC

A pparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC) today


celebrated its 46th Foundation Day at Apparel
House, Gurugram on 22nd February 2024. The
event marked the presence of Chairman AEPC, Shri
Sudhir Sekhri, Shri Rakesh Vaid, Vice Chairman ATDC,
also grateful to the Ministry of Textiles for aggressively
pursuing creating the ecosystem for the MMF segment
growth. This will help us in creating new opportunities
in the MMF segment, he added.
AEPC has been a major contributor in the export
Shri HKL Magu past Chairman AEPC, Shri Gautam Nair, growth story of India through Buyer-Seller Meet (BSM)
Executive Committee Member, Shri Mithileshwar in different parts of the world.
Thakur, Secretary General AEPC and other AEPC staff AEPC has planned to promote the global reach of
members. Indian Apparel Exports to newer export destinations
through its export promotion activities in 2024-25.
AEPC aggressively motivates the Indian Garment
industry towards adopting Sustainable practices and
Circular fashion and embraces the global best practices
in the Indian Garment industry on environmental and
social compliance.
Speaking on the occasion Shri Mithileshwar Thakur,
SG AEPC said that, “Celebrating 46 glorious years in the
service to Nation providing exclusive support to the
Apparel industry of India for enhancing their Global
reach through rigorous Market Intelligence, Global
Compliance, Trade Facilitation and Policy Advocacy.”
AEPC has also initiated a social media blast to spread
awareness about the AEPC ongoing activities focusing on
The event began with lighting of lamp and cake how government support in helping the Apparel
cutting in presence of SG AEPC, DSG AEPC and other staff Industry. All the regional offices of AEPC also joined the
members. Shri Sudhir Sekhri, Chairman AEPC in his celebration on the 46th Foundation Day. ◘
address said, “Firstly, on behalf of the entire apparel
export community, I extend my sincere thanks to the
Government on the Foundation Day of AEPC. My special
thanks to the Hon’ble Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi
and the Minister of Textiles, Commerce and Industry,
Shri Piyush Goyal for providing all help to the industry
and an ease of doing export environment.”
Further Shri Sekhri stated that, “The government’s
key initiatives such as FTAs with Australia, Mauritius
and UAE, extension of RoSCTL, enhanced duty drawback,
PM MITRA, PLI for technical textiles, etc. will help us to
focus on market and product diversification.” We are

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APPAREL | COUNCIL AFFAIRS

PARTNERSHIP AGREEMENT SIGNED


BETWEEN INDIA & JAPAN IN
INDUSTRIAL COMPETITIVENESS

A Partnership Agreement between India and Japan


in Industrial Competitiveness has been entered.
Under this agreement, a Support Program on
Japanese system of Quality Control for Textile & Apparel
Industry in India is being implemented by the Association
the Toyota 5S system, which means correction at every
small process of production. Also following Traceability in
process from Cotton Yarn, Dyeing , Sewing and Packing to
make Root cause analysis at the point of defect, with
support from Japan their factories are capable of
for Overseas Technical Cooperation and Sustainable achieving Japanese Quality Standard and explained the
Partnerships (AOTS) in collaboration with M/s. Nissenken compliance and procedure they are following they are
Quality Evaluation Centre, Japan and the Textiles taking extra precaution and 100 % inspection of garment.
Committee, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India. Japanese Buyers are canceling the consignment for very
On visit of the following three members delegation minute defect as they are following ZERO tolerance and
from Japan, meeting had been called by Vice- exporters find it difficult to handle, therefore requested
C h a i r p e r s o n , Te x t i l e s C o m m i t t e e a n d Te x t i l e Japanese Inspection Agencies to not consider Natural fiber
Commissioner, GoI on 01.02.2024 at 10:30 a.m. at the O/o Red or Gray foreign fiber from cotton as defects. This will
Textile Commissioner. help Manufacturers to achieve Japanese standards.
1. MS. TANAKA NOBUKA – program Coordinators Mr. Yutaka Shibata – Central Manager replied that to
from The Association of Overseas Technical Cooperation avoid this entire problem they are setting Quality
and Sustainable partnership ( AOTS) inspection laboratories. They already have this lab at
2. Mr. Yutaka Shibata – Central Manager and from Jaipur, now they are planning at Tirupur and at Kolkata.
M/s. Nissenken Quality Evaluation Centre Tokyo At Tirupur they already in touch with TEA
3. Mr. Junji Iwata – Business Promotion Manager Further they also informed that from the year 2026,
from Nissenken Quality Evaluation Centre ASEAN and import duty will be levied on Bangladesh, and lots of order
South East Asia Business HQ for TSHIRTS will be comes to India, So India should
From the Export promotion Council, Mr. Dilip Trivedi prepare for it. ◘
EC member AEPC and Mr. K. Baruah – Joint Director Barua
- Director – Manmade and Technical Textile Export
Promotion Council has attended the meeting
ROOP RASHI – TXC and Mr. S P Verma – Secretary
Textile Committee and Mr. J Dev Barman – Director Export
Promotion and Quality Assurance Div – Textile committee
was present during this meeting.
Ms. Roop Rashi – TXC welcomes the delegate and asked
the reason, spite of FTA agreement with Japan, why our
export is not increase to Japan for Textiles and Garment.
Mr. Dilip Trivedi said that they are one of the biggest
exporters of Garments from the last 40 years, following

APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY / 39


APPAREL | ATDC CONTENT

Shri Atul Bagai, Head, United


Nations Environment Programme
(UNEP) Country Office, India
visits ATDC
internationally acclaimed British and American
Retail apparel brands.

During the meeting Mr Bagai appreciated the


scale of work being done by ATDC and apprised
about the various projects being undertaken by
UNEP across India.

ATDC Directors, Dr. Roopali Shukla, Ms Neera


Singh Parihar and Ms. Gurpreet Kaur shared the
exhaustive research being done to develop
programs to be launched by ATDC on Sustainability
in July 2024.

A pparel Training and Design Centre (ATDC) The possible areas of cooperation between UNEP
and United Nations Environment Program and ATDC were presented. It was agreed that UNEP
(UNEP) are coming together to work on would connect Experts in the area of Environmental
projects that largely benefit the environment and Sustainability to ATDC. UNEP would also look at
the community through projects that address capacity building projects with ATDC in India to
common goals. address the skill gaps in the apparel sector that have
been identified in the UNEP reports. These would
further enable the two organizations to work on
Shri Atul Bagai, Head, UNEP Country Office,
green jobs for the sector.
India visited ATDC National Head Office on 20th
February 2024 to explore synergy between both
organisations. The Management Development Program (MDP)
Program that had been implemented by UNEP was
also appreciated. ATDC could re-cast the program in
Shri Rakesh Vaid, Senior Vice Chairman ATDC
keeping with the industry requirements and offer a
shared ATDC's perspectives on the areas largely
relevant program in collaboration with UNEP.
impacting the Indian textile & apparel sector in
terms of sustainability and environment and need Encouraged by the vast work being done by ATDC in
for providing trained manpower to handle issues of areas of women empowerment and green Jobs, Mr.
Sustainability and Circulatory. Shri Vaid said that Bagai offered that UNEP would facilitate connecting
AT D C i s m a n d a t e d t o a s s i s t t h e g a r m e n t ATDC with UN Women and the Green Sector Skill
manufacturing industry of India in adopting and Council.
s t re n g t h e n i n g e nv i ro n m e n t a l , s o c i a l a n d
governance aspects. The programs being done by ATDC is looking forward to synergizing with
ATDC to reduce gender disparity through factory UNEP in curating programs that would benefit the
interventions in the area of Women Empowerment Indian apparel industry. ◘
and Governance with the active support of

40 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY


APPAREL | ATDC CONTENT

ATDC Vice- Chairman meets


Steel Secretary

S h. Rakesh Vaid, Senior Vice-Chairman ATDC


had called on 14/02/2024 Sh. Nagendra Nath
Sinha, IAS Secretary, Ministry of Steel, Govt.
of India. Sh. Rakesh Vaid presented ATDC’s proposal
to work as Partner in ‘Steel Authority of India
and gainful wage / self-employment in Apparel
Sector, it is our belief that each empowered youth
would in turn support at least 3-5 family members
after their gainful employment, which will have a
‘ripple effect’ on the economy and the quality of
Limited (SAIL) with their CSR initiatives for the lives of the people and moreover, they can also go
‘Merit-cum-Means’ scholarship under the “Learn & for further studies. Sh. Vijay Mathur, DG ATDC
Earn” programme for 300 students/ year briefed the proposal.
sponsorship to underprivileged meritorious
students in one year job-oriented Diploma courses ATDC’s “Learn & Earn” programme imparts
of Apparel Sector. apparel centric education and awards Diploma in
Apparel Sector courses to underprivileged youth
Shri Vaid explained that the inspiration of the and empowers them to take up livelihood through
CSR proposal has blended the directions observed self-employment or wage-employment was
from Hon’ble Prime Minister who has stressed on detailed by Ms. Neera Chandra, Director ATDC.
Governance and enabling employment by providing
Vocational Education, Soft skills in the diversified The delegation comprises of under Senior Vice-
sector of apparel. Chairman was Sh. Vijay Mathur, DG&CEO and Smt.
Neera Chandra, Director CSR, ATDC. Shri Sinha was
ATDC proposals are for social up-liftment of very receptive to the proposal of ATDC. ◘
underprivileged youth through vocational training

APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY / 41


APPAREL | INDIA NEWS

CABINET APPROVES CONTINUATION


OF SCHEME FOR REBATE OF STATE AND
CENTRAL TAXES AND LEVIES FOR EXPORT
OF APPAREL/GARMENTS

T he Union Cabinet chaired by Prime Minister Shri


Narendra Modi approved the continuation of
Scheme for Rebate of State and Central Taxes and
Levies (RoSCTL) for export of Apparel/Garments and Made
ups up to 31st March 2026.
Made-ups by way of rebate. It is based on an internationally
acceptable principle that taxes and duties should not be
exported, to enable a level playing field in the international
market for exports. Hence, not only indirect taxes on inputs
are to be rebated or reimbursed but also other un-refunded
Continuation of Scheme for proposed duration of two State & Central taxes and levies are to be rebated.
(2) years will provide stable policy regime which is Rebate of State Taxes and Levies comprises VAT on fuel
essential for long term trade planning, more so in the used in transportation, captive power, farm sector, mandi
textiles sector where orders can be placed in advance for tax, duty of electricity, stamp duty on export documents,
long term delivery. embedded SGST paid on inputs such as pesticides,
The continuation of RoSCTL will ensure predictability fertilizers etc. used in production of raw cotton, purchases
and stability in policy regime, help remove the burden of from unregistered dealers, coal used in production of
taxes and levies and provide level playing field on the electricity and inputs for transport sector. Rebate of Central
principle that “goods are exported and not domestic taxes” Taxes and Levies comprises central excise duty on fuel used
The Union Cabinet had given approval of the scheme up in transportation, embedded CGST paid on inputs such as
to 31.03.2020 and further approval was given for pesticides, fertilizer etc. used in production of raw cotton,
continuation of RoSCTL till 31st March 2024. The present purchases from unregistered dealers, inputs for transport
extension upto 31st March 2026 helps in enhancing export sector and embedded CGST and Compensation Cess on coal
competitiveness of garments and made-ups sectors. It used in production of electricity.
makes apparel/garments and Made ups products cost- RoSCTL has been an important policy measure and has
competitive and adopt the principle of zero-rated export. helped in enhancing competitiveness of Indian exports of
The other textile products (excluding Chapter 61, 62 and apparel and made ups which are value added and labour-
63) not covered under the RoSCTL, are eligible to avail the intensive segments of the Textile Value Chain. Continuation
benefits under RoDTEP along with other products. of Scheme for further duration of two (2) years will provide
The objective of the scheme is to compensate for the stable policy regime which is essential for long term trade
State and Central Taxes and Levies in addition to the Duty planning, more so in the textiles sector where orders can be
Drawback Scheme on export of apparel/ garments and placed in advance for long term delivery. ◘

42 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY


APPAREL | INDIA NEWS

137 RESEARCH PROJECTS APPROVED UNDER


NATIONAL TECHNICAL TEXTILES MISSION
WITH AN OUTLAY OF RS. 474.7 CRORE
upto 31.03.2026. The Mission has 4 components.
Under Component I of NTTM, Rs. 1,000 crore have
been earmarked for funding the research projects
a w a r d e d t o t h e G o v e r n m e n t
Organizations/Premier Research
Institutes/Textiles Research Associations (TRAs) of
the country. So far, 137 research projects have been

W
approved under NTTM. The total cost approved of
ith a view to position the country as a the said projects by the Government is Rs. 474.7
global leader in Technical Textiles, crore (approx.).
National Technical Textiles Mission This information was given by the Union
(NTTM) has been approved with an outlay of Rs. Minister of State for Textiles, Smt. Darshana
1,480 crore; from Financial Year 2020-21 and valid Jardosh in a written reply in the Lok Sabha. ◘

CAPITAL INVESTMENT SUBSIDY OF


RS. 1,416.50 CRORE RELEASED IN 6,448
CASES UNDER AMENDED TECHNOLOGY
UPGRADATION FUND SCHEME (ATUFS)
IN LAST THREE YEARS

Interest Reimbursement/Margin Money Subsidy


under the committed liabilities of old versions of
TUFS, making the total release under ATUFS during
last three years as Rs. 1,855.93 crore across the
country. Capital Investment subsidy of Rs. 166.69
crore has been released in 545 cases under ATUFS
and Rs. 9.38 crore has been disbursed as Interest
Reimbursement/Margin Money Subsidy under the
committed liabilities of old versions of TUFS to the
units located in the State of Tamil Nadu making
total release under ATUFS as Rs. 176.07 crore.

A total Capital Investment subsidy of Rs.


1,416.50 crore has been released in 6,448
c a s e s u n d e r A m e n d e d Te c h n o l o g y
Upgradation Fund Scheme (ATUFS) in last three
years (FY 2020-21 to FY 2022-23). In addition, a
Total number of 1,117 energy saving machines
have been incentivized under ATUFS during last five
years.
This information was given by the Union
Minister of State for Textiles, Smt. Darshana Jardosh
total of Rs. 439.43 crore has been disbursed as in a written reply in the Rajya Sabha. ◘

APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY / 43


APPAREL | INDIA NEWS

QUALITY AND SUSTAINABILITY TO DEFINE


INDIA'S JOURNEY TO BECOME DEVELOPED
BY 2047: SHRI PIYUSH GOYAL
Create a confident ecosystem that respects 'Zero Effect and
Zero Defect': Sh. Goyal to graduating students

U nion Minister for Commerce & Industry,


Consumer Affairs, Food & Public, Distribution and
Textiles, Shri Piyush Goyal said that it is
important to understand and appreciate the importance of
Quality. While addressing the students at the Convocation
as he has worked towards providing ease of living to the
people in his second term. Further, while speaking to the
students, the Minister urged the graduating students to
create a young confident ecosystem that respects ‘Zero
Effect and Zero Defect’. He said that India cannot become a
Ceremony of the first batch of ‘Gunvatta Gurukul Program’ developed nation unless we respect the environment and
of the Quality Council of India (QCI), the Minister said for imbibe quality and sustainability as prime focus that will
Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi quality and help India reach the ‘golden era’ that our country once
sustainability are two most important issues that will enjoyed.
define the nation’s journey in becoming a developed nation With an aim to strengthen the young force of India,
by 2047. nearly 20% of the total world youth population, QCI
celebrates the first convocation ceremony of the first batch
of the Gunvatta Gurukul, a ground-breaking initiative
aligned with the vision of preparing and propelling youth to
become an integral part of the Developed India, a Viksit
Bharat, by 2047.
The initiative aims to empower young minds and equip
them for success in the dynamic job market and provide
them a platform to gain insights on the governance and
public policies. In the first batch, 87 bright young
professionals graduated with a recognition from QCI for
their dedication and achievements.
The success of the first batch paves the way for the
second batch, commencing on February 9, 2024. With its
innovative approach and unwavering commitment to youth
empowerment, Gunvatta Gurukul is poised to make a
Shri Goyal expressed his confidence in the Prime Minister significant impact on India's future. ◘
providing quality of living to the citizens in his third term,

44 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY


APPAREL | INDIA NEWS

DPIIT COORDINATES INITIATIVES


FOR EASE OF DOING BUSINESS CREATING
A CONDUCIVE BUSINESS ENVIRONMENT

D epartment for Promotion of Industry and


I n t e r n a l Tr a d e ( D P I I T ) i s t h e N o d a l
Department for coordinating the initiatives
under Ease of Doing Business which are aimed at
creating a conducive business environment. Some of the
and Decriminalizing Government to Business and
Citizen Interfaces across Ministries/States/UTs.

The key focus areas of the initiative are:


(I Simplification of procedures related to
steps taken by DPIIT in enhancing ease of doing business applications, renewals, inspections, filing records, etc.
are as under:
(ii) Rationalization of legal provisions, by repealing,
India ranks 63rd in the World Bank’s Doing Business amending or omission of redundant laws,
Report (DBR), 2020 published in October, 2019 before
(iii) Digitization of government processes by
its discontinuation by the World Bank. India’s rank in the
creating online interfaces, and
DBR improved from 142nd in 2014 to 63rd in 2019,
(iv) Decriminalization of minor, technical or
registering a jump of 79 ranks in a span of 5 years.
procedural defaults.
DPIIT is spearheading the dynamic reform exercise
The Jan Vishwas (Amendment of Provisions) Act,
of Business Reforms Action Plan (BRAP), wherein all the
2023 was passed in Lok Sabha on 27th July 2023 and
States and UTs in the country are assessed on the basis of
Rajya Sabha on 2nd August 2023. The Assent of the
reforms implemented by them on designated
President was received on 11th August 2023. The Act
parameters. The focus of the reforms has been on
decriminalized 183 provisions of 42 Central Acts
streamlining the existing regulations and processes and
administered by 19 Ministries/Departments.
eliminating unnecessary requirements and procedures.
BRAP covers reform areas such as Information Wizard, The Act has helped in rationalizing criminal
Single Window Systems, Online Building Permission provisions and ensuring that citizens, businesses and
System, Inspection Reforms, Labour Reforms, etc. BRAP the government departments operate without fear of
exercise has helped in building knowledge base as well imprisonment for minor, technical or procedural
as instilling competition within states/ UT’s in defaults. The Act has paved the way for rationalizing
improving their business environment. laws, eliminating barriers and bolstering growth of
businesses.
DPIIT also coordinates with Ministries/Departments
and States/UTs for initiatives to reduce compliance This information has been provided by the Union
burden on citizen and business activities. The objective Minister of State for Commerce and Industry, Shri Som
of this exercise is to improve Ease of Doing Business and Parkash in a written reply in the Lok Sabha. ◘
Ease of Living by Simplifying, Rationalizing, Digitizing

APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY / 45


APPAREL | INDIA NEWS

3RD MEETING OF ASEAN-INDIA TRADE


IN GOODS AGREEMENT (AITIGA)
JOINT COMMITTEE, 16-19 FEBRUARY 2024

T he 3rd meeting of AITIGA Joint Committee


for undertaking the review of ASEAN-
India Trade in Goods Agreement (AITIGA)
was hosted by India in Vanijya Bhawan, New Delhi
from 16-19 February 2024. The meeting was co-
mutually beneficial. A total of eight Sub-
committees have been constituted under the
AITIGA Joint Committee for undertaking
negotiations on different policy areas related to
the Agreement. The first two meetings of the
Joint Committee were held in May and August
chaired by Shri Rajesh Agrawal, Additional 2023.
Secretary, Department of Commerce, Ministry of The Joint Committee in its 3rd meeting held
Commerce and Industry, India and Ms. Mastura detailed discussions and took stock of the progress
Ahmad Mustafa, Deputy Secretary General in the negotiations. The Sub-Committees reported
(Trade), Ministry of Investment, Trade & Industry, the progress and outcome of their discussions
related to market access, Rules of Origin and
Malaysia. Delegates from ASEAN countries viz.
Standards, technical regulations and conformity
Brunei, Cambodia, Indonesia, Lao PDR, Malaysia,
assessment procedures to the Joint Committee.
Myanmar, Philippines, Singapore, Thailand & Viet Following the intense discussions, the Joint
Nam participated in the meeting. Committee outlined the focus areas for further
deliberations and updated the work programme
for the Review while providing necessary
guidance to the Sub-committees to carry forward
the negotiations.
India-ASEAN trade has grown to USD 131.58 Bn
in 2022-23. The review of AITIGA will facilitate
further expansion of trade between India and
ASEAN in a balanced and sustainable manner. Both
The AITIGA was signed in 2009. In September sides are aiming to conclude the review in 2025.
2022, both sides tasked the AITIGA Joint The 4th meeting of AITIGA Joint Committee is
Committee to undertake the review with the aim of planned to be held in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia in
making the Agreement more trade facilitative and May 2024. ◘

46 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY


APPAREL | INDIA NEWS

EXISTING IPR REGIME WELL-EQUIPPED


TO PROTECT AI GENERATED WORKS, NO
NEED TO CREATE SEPARATE CATEGORY
OF RIGHTS
inventions through the Patent system. Therefore, there
is no requirement to create a separate category of
rights for AIand related innovations in the Indian IPR
Regime. Therefore, while Artificial Intelligence (AI)
and related innovations is an evolving stream of
technology the current legal framework under the
Patent and Copyright Act is well-equipped to protect
Artificial Intelligence generated works and related
innovations. Presently, there is no proposal to create
any separate right so ram end the law in the context of
AI-generated content.
The exclusive economic rights of a copyright owner
such as the right of reproduction, translation,

I ntellectual Property Rights including Copyright adaptation etc. granted by the Copyright Act, 1957
obligates the user of Generative AI to obtain permission
and Related rights provide exclusive rights to the
to use their works for commercial purposes if such use
right owner who are legal persons for a set is not covered under the fair dealing exceptions
duration. These rights allow for the work or creation or provided under Section 52 of the Copyright Act. Since
innovation to be protected and enables collection of Intellectual property rights are private rights, these are
royalties through licensing. For a right to be granted, enforced by the individual rights holders. Adequateand
the owner is required to meet the criteria specified effective civil measures and criminal remedies are
under the law. India being a member of all major prescribed under the Copyright Law against any act of
infringement or unauthorized use of works, including
international conventions and agreements for the
digital circumvention.
protection of Intellectual Property Rights grants
This information has been provided by the Union
adequate protection of rights for works created by legal Minister of State for Commerce and Industry, Shri. Som
persons through Copyright Law and protects Parkash in a written reply in the Rajya Sabha. ◘

APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY / 47


APPAREL | INDIA NEWS

INDIA AND PERU TRADE


AGREEMENT NEGOTIATIONS
GAINS MOMENTUM – 6TH ROUND
TAKES PLACE IN LIMA

T he 6th round of India -Peru negotiations


for a Trade Agreement was held from
February 12 to 14, 2024, in Lima, Peru, to
continue the work that started in 2017 when the
negotiation process was formally announced.
The Trade Agreement will create more trade
opportunities for their citizens and enterprises,
a n d a l s o s t re n g t h e n t h e i r e c o n o m i c a n d
commercial ties.
In this round, nine working groups held in-
person meetings: Trade in Goods, Rules of
Origin, Trade in Services, Movement of Natural
Persons, Customs Procedures and Trade
Facilitation, Dispute Settlement, Initial
Provisions and General Definitions, Final
Provisions and Legal and Institutional Issues.
These meetings involved the participation of
more than 70 delegates from both countries
together, including their respective negotiating
teams. From the Peruvian side, the delegation
was led by the Ministry of Foreign Trade and
Tourism, with the participation of government
officials from other entities such as the Ministry
The round started with an opening ceremony of Economy and Finance, the Ministry of Foreign
with the participation of the Vice Minister of Affairs, the Ministry of Agriculture, the Ministry of
Foreign Trade of Peru, Ms. Teresa Mera; the Production, Customs Administration, among
Ambassador of India in Peru, Mr. Vishvas Sapkal; others. From the Indian side, the delegation
the Chief Negotiator of India, Mr. Vipul Bansal; the comprised government officials and legal
Chief Negotiator of Peru, Mr. Gerardo Meza; and re p re s e n t a t i ve s f ro m t h e D e p a r t m e n t o f
the delegations of both countries. Commerce, Department of Revenue and the
During the ceremony, the Vice Minister of Directorate General of Foreign Trade.
Foreign Trade of Peru and the Chief Negotiator of Additionally, during this week and the
India gave brief introductory remarks reaffirming following, other working groups such as, Technical
their commitment to continue working with Barriers to Trade, Sanitary and Phytosanitary
efficiency, as India and Peru did before the Measures, Trade Remedies and Cooperation will
pandemic with five successful rounds until August continue to hold virtual meetings. The next round
2019. The negotiations resumed with the Special is expected to be held in April 2024. The date will be
Virtual Round in October, 2023. set in the following days.
In this sense, both speakers emphasized the In the last two decades, the trade between India
importance of taking forward the negotiation and Peru has increased significantly, from US$ 66
process with pragmatism, in order to find creative million in 2003 to around US$ 3.68 billion in
solutions and to reach consensus that allows to 2023. ◘
achieve this common objective in the short term.

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APPAREL | INDIA NEWS

exports.
It said that the exemption will be with pre-import
conditions, and those inputs will be utilised in the
manufacturing of the export products.
“Enabling provisions are made for exempting inputs
imported by Advance Authorisation holders and EOUs
from mandatory Quality Control Orders (QCOs)," the
Directorate General of Foreign Trade (DGFT) said in a
notification.
The unutilised material will be destroyed in the
presence of jurisdictional GST/customs authorities, it
added.
GOVT EXEMPTS CERTAIN Mandatory QCOs help curb the import of sub-
EXPORTING UNITS FROM standard products, prevent unfair trade practices and
QUALITY CONTROL ORDERS ensure the safety and well-being of consumers as well as
the environment.
It said that the exemption will be with pre-import QCOs are applicable for products domestically
conditions, and those inputs will be utilised in the manufactured as well as imported. Every
manufacturing of the export products manufacturing unit in and outside India has to comply
with these orders if they want to sell in the domestic

T he government exempted advance market.


authorisation holders and export-oriented The focus of the government is to bring more and
units (EOUs) from mandatory quality control more products under the ambit of QCOs for the
orders for imported goods that are used as inputs for development of the quality ecosystem in the country
and to provide consumers with quality products. ◘

INDIA EXTENDS SAMARTH Skill Development and Entrepreneurship. The purpose


TEXTILE TRAINING SCHEME of the scheme is to incentivise and supplement the
efforts of the industry in creating jobs in the organised
UNTIL MARCH 31, 2025 textile and related sectors, covering the entire value
chain of textiles, excluding spinning and weaving.
Its objective is to incentivise and supplement the According to industry sources, the training
efforts of industry in creating jobs in the organized programme and course curriculum were rationalised,
textile and related sectors, covering the entire value keeping in view the technological developments and
chain of textiles, excluding spinning and weaving market demands of domestic and other countries.
The scheme is not only promoting entry-level

T he government has extended the 'Samarth'


scheme for training and skilling in the textiles
sector by another year. However, it has decided
to maintain the outlay at the current level. The scheme,
executed by the Ministry of Textiles, will be operational
skilling programmes but is also supporting upskilling
and reskilling programmes for existing workers to
improve their productivity. ◘

until March 31, 2025. Financial support for the scheme


will remain at ₹390 crore ($47.13 million).
Originally, the scheme was to be available until
March 31, 2024. The Ministry of Textiles recently issued
a circular to announce the extension. The Department of
Expenditure under the Ministry of Finance has
approved the extension of the scheme.
It is a demand-driven and placement-oriented
umbrella skilling scheme designed to make textile
workers employable in the industry. The scheme was
formulated under the skilling policy of the Ministry of

APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY / 49


APPAREL | INDIA NEWS

GOVERNMENT EXTENDS RoDTEP


BENEFITS TO EXPORTS FROM SEZ
UNITS

T he Department of Commerce has decided to


expand the RoDTEP scheme to include exports
from SEZs and EOUs
The decision may be a disproportionately high
bonanza for high import intensive exports from SEZs.
Consider RoDTEP for categories similar to SEZs
If products exported from SEZs and EOUs qualify for
benefits, then exports from EHTPs, BTPs, MOOWR scheme
and Customs bonded warehouses should also qualify.
These are similar programs, but right now, they do not get
However, it overlooks exports from other categories that RoDTEP benefits
are in a similar situation as SEZs SEZ program lets businesses use inputs without paying
duties, similar to Advance Authorisation (AA). However,
RoDTEP may lead to overcompensation for import RoDTEP benefits are not currently available for exports
intensive exports from SEZs under AA. They might be considered for RoDTEP
A lot of big exports from SEZs like electronics RoDTEP doesn't cover certain exports: Export of
(including smartphones), petroleum products, diamonds, imported goods (II) Export products subject to Minimum
and gold jewellery, add less than 10% of their value in export price or export duty and (III) Products restricted
India. This means over 90% of what makes up these for export or imports. However, businesses in SEZs can
products comes from imports, which don't have to pay export these products. The question is whether RoDTEP
duties. If these exports get a 3% incentive from the benefits will apply to these SEZ exports, even though
RoDTEP scheme, it means they earn an extra $30 for every they're normally not eligible
$100 they make. If we add other incentives like PLI, the Although sending goods from the domestic market to
figure will be very high SEZs is treated as exporting, these transactions don't
The RoDTEP scheme covers unrefunded taxes. The qualify for RoDTEP benefits. However, they are strong
amount of such unrebated taxes comes down when candidates to be included in the RoDTEP scheme
exports are import intensive and imports are duty free. A significant concern is the limited budget for
Applying the same RoDTEP rate to these imports could RoDTEP which could mean reduced rates for all if more
lead to overcompensation for embedded taxes, contrary to exports are included, especially since these rates are
the scheme's goal of addressing unrebated taxes already lower compared to the previously available MEIS
rates. ◘

50 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY


APPAREL | GLOBAL NEWS

India seeks tariff exemption for textiles in


EU FTA talks for competitive edge

I ndia is advocating for labor-intensive textiles and


apparel products to be classified as non-tariff items
in the ongoing negotiations for a free-trade
agreement (FTA) with the European Union.
EU nations impose higher import duties, typically
Commission’s press officer refused to comment.
However, experts hold differing views on the proposal
for zero duty on textile exports. Mere signing of an FTA
may not result in a rise in export of India’s labor-intensive
goods, said Ajay Srivastava, founder, Global Trade
ranging 10-12%, on textile products, placing India at a Research Initiative (GTRI).
disadvantage compared to China, the EU's leading Eliminating duties in the EU or the UK may benefit
supplier of apparel and textiles, said two people seeking Indian exports, but for a significant increase, we need to
anonymity. strengthen our product profile, Srivastava, a former
The seventh round of negotiations with the 27-nation Indian Trade Service officer, added. “India’s export of
bloc, which started on 19 February, is significant for the apparel to Japan is an example. Even after eliminating
Indian textiles and apparel sector, considering that the duties on all apparels from day one of the India-Japan
EU, the US and West Asian countries, are the major export FTA, which came in force in August 2011, the expected
destinations for Indian garments. gains did not happen."
“The issue of bringing textiles under the non-tariff Negotiations for an FTA between the EU and India
barrier category was prominently raised during the were launched in 2007, but were suspended in 2013.
seventh round of discussions. The talks are still on, and Discussions resumed on 17 June 2022, with commerce
we are positive about it," the first person said. minister Shri Piyush Goyal, and Mr. Valdis Dombrovskis,
India's textile exports to the EU fell from $44.43 the executive vice president of the European Commission,
billion in 2021-22 to $36.68 billion in FY23. In the first 10 leading the efforts.
months of the current fiscal year, India exported textiles The EU is a significant export destination for India,
worth $27.69 billion globally, including products valued ranking second only to the US. Nevertheless, non-tariff
at $7.67 billion to the EU. This merchandise included barriers imposed by the EU have led to a decline in goods
readymade garments worth $4.30 billion and handicrafts exports over the past two decades. An FTA could reduce
worth $330 million. duties and also address the barriers affecting Indian
India is emerging as a preferred destination for agricultural exports. Moreover, India's production-linked
sourcing textiles, with better quality products, adhering incentives could boost exports of textiles,
to global standards, driving exports growth. The pharmaceuticals, and mechanical appliances, all of which
elimination of import duties will further stimulate are significant imports for the EU.
growth, the second person said. In the sixth round of negotiations in October, the two
Emailed queries to the Union commerce ministry sides made progress in 18 out of the 23 chapters. ◘
remained unanswered till press time. The European

APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY / 51


APPAREL | GLOBAL NEWS

GDP growth at 8.4 per cent


in Dec quarter, PM Narendra Modi hails
'strength, potential of Indian economy'

2022 quarter, according to the data released by the


National Statistical Office (NSO).
The manufacturing sector's output, as per the gross
value added in the third quarter of this fiscal, grew by
11.6 per cent compared to a contraction of 4.8 per cent
in the year-ago period.
"Real GDP or GDP at Constant (2011-12) Prices in the
year 2023-24 is estimated to attain a level of ₹172.90
lakh crore, against the first revised estimates of GDP
for the year 2022-23 of ₹160.71 lakh crore. The growth
rate of GDP during 2023-24 is estimated at 7.6 per cent
compared to the growth rate of 7.0 per cent in 2022-
23," the government statement added.

T
period.
he latest government data showed GDP grew
by 8.4 per cent in the October-December
quarter, against 4.3 per cent in the year-ago

“Robust 8.4% GDP growth in Q3 2023-24 shows the


The GDP at current prices in Q3 of 2023-24 is
estimated at ₹75.49 lakh crore compared to ₹68.58 lakh
crore in Q3 of 2022-23, showing a growth rate of 10.1
per cent, it stated.
The NSO revised downward the GDP growth for
2022-23 to 7 per cent from 7.2 per cent estimated
strength of Indian economy and its potential. Our
earlier.
efforts will continue to bring fast economic growth
which shall help 140 crore Indians lead a better life and The NSO has also revised GDP estimates for the first
create a Viksit Bharat!” the Prime Minister posted on X. and second quarters of this fiscal to 8.2 and 8.1 per cent
from 7.8 per cent and 7.6 per cent, respectively.
The latest government data showed that the GDP
grew by 8.4 per cent in the October-December quarter The economy has expanded 8.2 per cent in April-
in 2023, against 4.3 per cent in the October-December December 2023 compared to 7.3 per cent a year ago. ◘

52 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY


APPAREL | GLOBAL NEWS

Charting the global economy: US growth in the next two years, per the latest Bloomberg
survey. While forecasters largely expect the US economy to
Germany reels from lose some steam after a blockbuster 2023, a still-robust
labour market and receding inflation continue to support
manufacturing downturn mostly solid household demand.
Here are some of the charts that appeared on Bloomberg
this week on the latest developments in the global economy,
geopolitics and markets:
Germany sees its faltering economy expanding by just
0.2% this year — a much flatter rebound than the 1.3% that
Chancellor Olaf Scholz’s government was predicting as
recently as the fall. Geopolitical tensions and high interest
rates are weighing on the recovery, though rising real wages
and a robust labor market should help over the course of
2024, the nation’s economy minister said.
Euro-area private-sector activity hit an eight-month
high, with services and stabilizing numbers across most of
the region making up for an increasingly dire situation in
German manufacturing. The factory gauge for the region’s
biggest economy slumped to the lowest since October,

G ermany’s economy is struggling to emerge from a


downturn in manufacturing, which is weighing
on growth overall.
Gross domestic product will probably eke out a small gain
this year before stronger momentum takes hold in 2025,
revealing a decline in output alongside plummeting new
orders at home and abroad.
Britain delivered the biggest budget surplus on record in
January, a boost for Chancellor Jeremy Hunt two weeks
before he is due to announce what could be the last fiscal
according to the government’s estimates. Even so, stronger statement before a general election. The undershoot raises
services activity across the rest of the continent propelled a the prospect of tax cuts in the March 6 budget as Hunt comes
euro-area gauge of private-sector activity to an eight-month under pressure from grassroots Conservatives to rescue
high in February. their political fortunes ahead of a general election expected
Meantime, economists are much more optimistic about later this year. ◘

Apparel brands, retailers to Companies that sell to consumers in the EU will need to
cover the cost of separate collection, sorting and recycling
cover costs of textile waste textiles, with the amount charged proportionate to the cost
under new EU rules of processing.
Clothing and footwear are estimated to account for 5.2m

N
tonnes of waste in the EU, equivalent to 12kg of waste per
ew rules proposed by the European
person every year. Less than 1% of textiles worldwide are
Commission aim to prevent and reduce textile
currently recycled into new products. ◘
waste across the EU.
MEPs in the EU’s environment committee have voted
in favour of adopting a proposed revision of the Waste
Framework Directive.
The new rules will set up extended producer
responsibility schemes for textiles sold on the EU market.
By 1 January 2025, EU countries will need to offer
separate collections of textiles for reuse, preparing for
reuse and recycling.
The new rules cover clothing as well as accessories, hats,
footwear and other textile products. Items made from
leather, composition leather, rubber or plastic are also
included.

APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY / 53


APPAREL | GLOBAL INDICATOR

India’s cotton yarn exports to surge


by 85% to 90% in FY2024: ICRA
Operating margins in FY2024 however projected to dip
by 200-240 bps amid lower gross contribution levels

fiscal. In 7M FY2024, overall yarn export volumes grew by


142% (on a YoY basis) on a low base, and with increased
exports to China, resulting in the share of exports in the
overall production increasing from 19% in FY2023 to 33%
in 7M FY2024. For the full year FY2024, ICRA estimates
India’s yarn exports to increase by 85- 90% on a YoY basis.
Bangladesh, China, and Vietnam account for 60% of these
exports. With the share of Asia in Indian yarn exports
being 70%, no immediate impact on Indian yarn exports is
expected due to the ongoing Red Sea conflict; any
sustained continuance of this face-off would have a direct
impact on apparel export volumes and a consequent
impact on both domestic and export demand for cotton
yarn and its realisations.

I n ICRA’s recently published research note on the Domestic cotton prices witnessed a lifetime high in H1
domestic cotton spinning industry, the rating agency FY2023 but declined steadily in H2 FY2023. For the 9M
expects demand for the industry to improve by close FY2024, the prices declined further by 25% compared to
to 12-14% in volume terms in FY2024 on a yearly basis, average cotton prices in FY2023, on account of a weak
with yarn exports likely to increase by a sharp 85% to operating environment. As per the estimates of the office
90%, on the back of a shift in sourcing preference away of the Textile Commissioner, domestic cotton production
from China, and the expectations of demand improving for for Cyi2024 is projected to decrease by 6% due to a
the spring/summer season in the US and the EU regions reduction in cotton sown area amid uneven rainfall. Cotton
that will drive domestic demand from apparel and home prices are expected to marginally increase from the
textile manufacturers. However, a sharp moderation in current levels because of lower expected production.
cotton prices, leading to lower yarn realisations, is likely to Cotton yarn prices too had remained on a declining
translate to a 9-10% year-on-year (YoY) decline in trend since June 2022 following the softening in cotton
revenues to Rs. 33,465 crore in FY2024. fibre prices and slowing demand from the downstream
Commenting on this, Mr. Jayanta Roy, Senior Vice apparel companies. ICRA expects the cotton yarn prices to
President & Group Head, Corporate Sector Ratings, ICRA, remain soft for the remainder of FY2024 and increase
said: “Despite the increase in cotton yarn volumes, ICRA marginally in FY2025 with demand from downstream
expects the operating income of Indian cotton spinning companies picking up. The average gross contribution
companies to decline by 9-10% and operating margins to margins for the spinners declined sharply by 19% in 9M
shrink by 200-240 bps in FY2024 amid a significant drop FY2024 in comparison with the same in FY2023 on account
in realisation and lower gross contribution levels. of a weak domestic demand. Gross contribution margins
Nevertheless, in-house power generation capacities for the spinners reached a multi-year low in August 2023
recently added by select players are likely to alleviate and improved 9% in November 2023. Despite a modest
margin pressures in the medium term.” increase in gross contribution margins in Q4 FY2024 with
Cotton yarn exports typically account for 25-35% of new crop arrivals, ICRA estimates cotton yarn gross
India’s cotton yarn production, while the remaining is contribution to contract in FY2024 over FY2023 levels.
accounted for by the domestic market. While a steep While cash accruals of spinners are expected to decline in
decline (53%) was witnessed in cotton yarn exports in FY2024, ICRA expects the spinners’ borrowings too to
FY2023, there has been a trend reversal in the current come down in FY2024. Lack of any major capital

54 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY


APPAREL | GLOBAL INDICATOR

expenditure plans along with lower working capital operating profit falling to 3.4 times from 2.6 times in
requirements, given the softening in cotton prices, is Fy2023. ◘
likely to result in lower debt levels and, therefore, an
improvement in capital structure for companies. Capital
structure, as reflected by the total outside liabilities/
tangible net worth ratio, is expected to improve
marginally to 0.5 times in FY2024 (0.6 times in FY2023).
However, following a decline in OPBITDA in absolute
terms, ICRA expects the debt coverage ratios for the sector
to weaken in FY2024 with the ratio of total debt to

JAISHANKAR URGES JAPANESE FIRMS TO


MANUFACTURE AND EXPORT FROM INDIA
reflected in the dynamism of our ties," Jaishankar said of
Japan-India relations.
He stated that government-to-government relations
have progressed faster than business or people-to-people
ties.
Jaishankar also held a joint commission meeting with
his Japanese counterpart Yoko Komikawa.
“Today, our meeting allowed us to take stock of various
ongoing lines of effort, since the dialogue was held last in
July in New Delhi," Jaishankar said at a joint press briefing
with his Japanese counterpart.
“We agreed on the need for new steps… to make this
relationship prepared for, and responsive to, the emerging
geopolitical, geo-economic and geo-technological trends,
and as well to the growing demands of the people of the
two countries to get to know each other better," he added.
India and Japan also agreed to consider development
partnership projects in third countries.
“It will benefit not only our two countries but also other
countries in the neighbourhood through a network of

I
forward and backward linkages," Jaishankar said. ◘
ndia’s foreign minister S. Jaishankar urged Japanese
companies to consider “Make in India" initiatives as
well as export from India to global markets, during
the Raisina Roundtable in Tokyo.
Jaishankar is on a visit to Japan to meet with his
Japanese counterpart Yoko Komikawa. He acknowledged
that while investments into India from Japan have been
robust, bilateral trade has been less robust.
In 2022-23, India-Japan bilateral trade stood at $21.96
billion while foreign direct investment from Japan since
April 2000 has reached almost $41 billion.
Japan is the fifth-largest investor in India.
“When I look at the pace of change and the new
opportunities today in India, I don't really see that

APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY / 55


APPAREL | GST UPDATE

RECENT IMPORTANT
UPDATES AND CIRCULARS
UNDER GST
- by: CA BALKISHAN CHHABRA

D uring the April-December, 2023 period, gross


GST collection witnessed a robust 12% y-o-y
growth, reaching ₹14.97 lakh crore, as against
₹13.40 lakh crore collected in the same period of the
previous year (April-December 2022). The average
completed by January 28, 2024, for Goods Transport
Agencies providing services and preferring to pay tax
under Forward Charge for the current fiscal year and
beyond. By selecting “YES” throughout the filing
process, customers are sent to the Annexure V Form,
monthly gross GST collection of ₹1.66 lakh crore in the allowing for a smooth transition to the Forward Charge
first 9-month period this year represents a 12% increase mechanism. Those who are not engaged in delivering
compared to the ₹1.49 lakh crore average recorded in the GTA services or wish to pay tax under Reverse Charge
corresponding period of FY23. The gross GST revenue can, on the other hand, select “NO.”
collected in the month of December, 2023 is ₹1,64,882 Users can access the Annexure V Form by going to the
crore out of which CGST is ₹30,443 crore, SGST is Dashboard and selecting Services > User Services > GTA
₹37,935 crore, IGST is ₹84,255 crore (including ₹41,534 > Opting Forward Charge Payment via GTA (Annexure
crore collected on import of goods) and cess is ₹12,249 V). This technique offers accessibility and clarity for
crore (including ₹1,079 crore collected on import of taxpayers using the online filing system. Further it is
goods). Notably, this marks the seventh month so far informed that if the Annexure V was filed manually
this year with collections exceeding ₹1.60 lakh crore. within the specified due date for the FY 2023-24, he
The revenues for the month of December, 2023 are need not to file it again on the portal for the FY 2024-25
10.3% higher than the GST revenues in the same month or any succeeding FY. By utilizing the manual upload
last year. facility, you can upload the legible copy of duly
acknowledged manually filed Annexure V for 2023-24,
B. Measures for facilitation of trade: GST Portal with correct particulars.
Updates
GSTN enables Online Filing of Annexure-V by GSTR-1 New Changes: Table 14 and Table 15 Added
Newly Registered GTAs Opting for Forward Charge in Form GSTR-1
GSTN has developed a functionality allowing for the GSTR-1 has been updated by Goods and Service Tax
online submission of Annexure-V on the GST Portal. This Network (GSTN) for reporting transactions by E-
functionality is designed primarily for newly registered Commerce Operators whereby 2 new important tables
Goods Transport Agencies (GTAs) that want to use have been added.
Forward Charge. The tables that have been added in GST Return are
The newly added feature allows users to upload Table 14 for reporting Supplies made through E-
manual Annexure V that was previously submitted to the Commerce Operators and Table 15 for reporting
jurisdictional office prior to the start of the online filing Supplies U/s 9(5). Earlier, we had tables in Form GSTR-
option. For GTAs navigating tax compliance, this 3B for reporting these transactions, but there were no
streamlined method provides better simplicity and specific tables in the GSTR-1 Form. Table in GSTR-3B
efficiency. was Table 3.1.1 for reporting Details of supplies notified
The declaration through Annexure V Form must be under section 9(5) of the CGST Act, 2017 and

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APPAREL | GST UPDATE

corresponding provision in IGST/UTGST/SGST Acts. Appeal Amnesty Schemes to provide relief to


Now when the tables have been added in GSTR-1, same taxpayers:
will ensure that data is auto-populated in GSTR-3B from Amnesty Scheme for filing of appeals against demand
GSTR-1. orders in cases where appeal could not be filed within
the allowable time period: The Council has
Blocking the generation of E-Way Bill without e- recommended providing an amnesty scheme for taxable
Invoice/IRN details for B2B and B2E transactions for persons, who could not file an appeal under section 107
e-invoice enabled tax payers of the CGST Act, 2017 against the demand order passed
E-Invoice has been operationalised since October on or before the 31st day of March, 2023, or whose
2020 for the taxpayers with Annual Aggregate Turn Over appeal against the said order was rejected solely on the
(AATO) above Rs. 500 Crores and eventually in a phased grounds that the said appeal was not filed within the
manner, e-Invoice generation is made mandatory for time period specified in sub-section (1) of section 107. In
taxpayers with AATO above Rs. 5 Crores. From day-one, all such cases, filing of appeal by the taxpayers will be
E-Invoice is seamlessly integrated with e-Way bill allowed against such orders upto 31st January 2024,
system and accordingly e-Way bills are generated along subject to the condition of payment of an amount of
with e-Invoice. That is, during e-Invoice generation, if predeposit of 12.5% of the tax under dispute, out of
the transportation details are sent, the e-Waybill is which at least 20% (i.e. 2.5% of the tax under dispute)
automatically generated. Most of the tax payers are should be debited from Electronic Cash Ledger. This will
generating the e-invoice along with the e-way bill. facilitate many taxpayers, who could not file appeal in
In some of these cases, the invoice details entered the past within the specified time period.
separately under e-Waybill and e-Invoice are not
matching with respect to the certain parameters. This is Recent important GST- Judicial Precedents
leading in mismatch in the e- Waybill and e-Invoice HIGH COURT OF CALCUTTA in respect of Suresh
statements. Kumar Chaudhary Vs Assistant Commissioner [2024]
Hence, to avoid such situations, e-Waybill generation dismissed the writ petition on the ground that Appellant
will not be allowed without e-Invoice details from 1st authority was well justified in dismissing the appeal of
March 2024. This is applicable for e- invoice enabled tax the Assessee as the registration was obtained by
payers and for the transactions related to Supplies under uploading forged electricity payment receipt and rental
B2B and Exports. However, EWBs for other transactions agreement. Therefore, there was no ground to interfere
such as B2C and non-supplies will function as usual in the instant writ petition.
without any change.
HIGH COURT OF Rajasthan in respect of Baba Super
Advisory: Minerals (P.) Ltd. Vs Union of India held that in case
e-Waybill generation process will be incorporated amount of CGST, SGST and IGST has been refunded to
with appropriate checks for taxpayers (Suppliers) assessee beyond 60 days, then respondent authorities
eligible for e-Invoicing. In case of B2B and B2E would make payment of amount of interest to the
(Exports), direct e-Waybill generation without e-Invoice assessee in terms of section 56, calculating the period of
will not be allowed for Suppliers eligible for e-Invoicing. 60 days from the date of completing application.
T h i s a p p l i e s t o t h e E - Wa y b i l l c a t e g o r i e s o f
Supply/Exports/SKD/CKD/Lots. HIGH COURT OF Calcutta in respect of Suchita
However, e-Waybill generation for transactions M i l l e n i u m P r o j e c t s ( P. ) L t d V s A s s i s t a n t
related to B2C and other non-Supplies will be allowed as Commissioner of CGST & CE held that where claim for
usual. Similarly, for the E-Way Bills generated by refund of unutilized ITC was rejected on the ground not
transporter, similar check would be enforced on the specifically mentioned in the Show Cause Notice RFD-
Supplier GSTIN. Other operations such as Part-B 08, rejection of claim for refund on said ground was in
updating, transporter Id updating, etc. will continue as violation of principles of natural justice and, thus,
usual without any change. matter was to be remanded back for fresh consideration.
All taxpayers and transporters are requested to make
necessary changes in their system so that they can adapt [The author is Senior Partner in M/s. CHHABRA B K &
to the changes from 1st March 2024. ASSOCIATES (Delhi / NCR)]. ◘

APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY / 57


APPAREL | NOTIFICATIONS

NOTIFICATIONS
SUB – Extension of RoSCTL Scheme till 31st March 2026
Ministry of Textiles vide Notification No. 251947 dated 08.02.2024, has extended the Rebate of State
and Central Taxes and Levies scheme (RoSCTL Scheme) for export of Apparel/Garments and Made-ups for a
period of 2 years, i.e. up to 31st March 2026.

Detailed notification can be accessed at Ministry of Commerce


& Industry website.
58 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY
REPORT

India ranks 38 out of 139 countries


on World Bank's Logistics Performance
Index Report 2023; India’s rank has
improved by sixteen places from 54 in 2014

PM GatiShakti National Master Plan, Legislative Issues, Time Release Study, Infrastructure
Up-gradation, PGA regulation and procedure).
Unified Logistics Interface Platform and
Concerning NTFAP 2020-23, 27 action points have
Logistics Data Bank improve logistics been identified under the working group on
efficiency and reduce logistics costs infrastructure up gradation.
The Hon’ble Prime Minister launched the PM

I n d i a’s l o g i s t i c s p e r f o r m a n c e h a s s e e n
remarkable improvements, as indicated by its
rank in the Logistics Performance Index (LPI)
Report by the World Bank. Through collaborative
efforts among various ministries and departments,
GatiShakti National Master Plan for multimodal
connectivity on 13 October 2021 and National
Logistics Policy on 17th Sept. 2022, for improving
logistics efficiency and reducing logistics costs.
Digital reforms such as Unified Logistics Interface
alongside the implementation of key policies and Platform (ULIP) for ease of doing business and
initiatives, India is advancing towards enhancing its Logistics Data Bank which has digitized track and
competitiveness globally. trace of 100% containerized EXIM cargo, are
According to the World Bank's 'Logistics presently operational. In addition, the line Ministries
Performance Index Report (2023): Connecting to are taking various measures, which include:
Compete 2023', India ranks 38 out of 139 countries. • Expansion of electrification of railway tracks by
India’s rank has improved by six places from 44 in MoR;
2018 and sixteen places from 54 in 2014. • Land Ports Authority of India (LPAI) has reduced
An Inter-Ministerial dedicated team comprising of the average export and import release time through
Stakeholder Ministries/Departments has been interventions;
formed. These stakeholder Ministries/Departments • NLP Marine, which is a single window interface
focus on targeted action plans with interventions platform for port-related logistics operations, has
needed to improve logistics performance across all six been launched by MoPSW. In addition, the automation
LPI parameters i.e. Customs, Infrastructure, Ease of of weighbridges is being undertaken; to name a few
arranging shipments, Quality of logistics services, key initiatives.
Tracking and Tracing, and Timeliness. In addition,
National Committee for Trade Facilitation (NCTF) has This information has been provided by the Union
a three-tiered structure, constituting of a National Minister of State for Commerce and Industry, Shri
Committee on Trade Facilitation, a Steering Som Parkash in a written reply in the Lok Sabha. ◘
Committee, and Focused Working Groups (Outreach,

APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY / 59


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