Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Sec10 Doors
Sec10 Doors
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Introduction
MODULE 1 Definitions, Types and
Designs of Doors
MODULE 2 Flush Doors
MODULE 3 Panelled Doors
MODULE 4 Glazed Doors
MODULE 5 Batten Doors
MODULE 6 Fire Doors
MODULE 7 Door Frames
MODULE 8 Door Linings
MODULE 9 Door Ironmongery
Quick Reference Guide
Knowledge Test
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Definitions
Door Sizes
The following table shows the common available sizes for internal and external doors. Other
sizes are available from most manufacturers but these will be classed as special orders.
NOTE:
• Both flush doors and framed doors can include glazed or wooden panels.
• Both flush doors and panelled doors can be fire doors.
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Flush door
The hardboard type facing can be embossed to give the appearance of a panel door but
generally this type of facing is supplied sanded and ready to receive a painting coat.
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There is a wide variety of sizes and designs available ranging from plain two panelled doors
to curved headed glazed doors.
These doors are usually manufactured in hardwood as it is more durable than softwood;
however these external doors can be made from softwood with a paint finish applied.
Batten doors
Battern doors are sometimes called matchboarded doors. They are simply constructed
and are made up of tongued and grooved boards called battens nailed to cross members
called ledges.
A more robust construction of this type of door is constructed of a rebated outer frame
consisting of stiles and rails, morticed and tenoned together, with braces for added
strength. The battens are tongued and grooved together, and are placed in the rebates and
supported on the cross rails. The battens are nailed to the frame, rails and braces, resulting
in a strong, inexpensive door.
This type of door is usually associated with sheds, garages and outbuildings. They can be
painted, varnished or treated with a preservative to withstand the weather and, if properly
maintained, can last for many years.
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The designs below are the more common designs of flush doors that manufacturers
produce for domestic and general use. These doors can be:
• Internal.
• External.
• Unglazed.
• Glazed.
• Fire check.
• Fire proof.
Hollow core
Hollow core doors are usually internal doors. They are very lightweight and consist of a
lightweight frame which is glued together with a facing glued to it. The door derives its
strength and shape from the strength of the adhesive used to glue the frame and facings.
In those cases the frame is usually jointed or stapled together, and the facing glued and
pinned to the frame. Edging strips called lippings are also glued and pinned to the edge of
the door. The top, bottom and intermediate rails incorporate small holes or vents to allow
the movement of air through the door and to help disperse any trapped air with the core.
Attached to the framework of the door are lock blocks and hinge blocks to accommodate
the ironmongery used to fit and hang the door.
Solid core
Type of flush door has solid cores made up of solid strips or particle board such
as chipboard.
These types of cores are the basis of fire-resistant doors. The solid core is an effective fire
check against the passage of flames, and if the door incorporates intumescent seals it will
prove to be an excellent fire door (See Module 6 Fire Doors).
Doors which have chipboard cores also have an outer framework which supports the core.
To reduce the weight of the door the core has holes running vertically up the length of the
core. This type of door is usually faced with a hardwood plywood veneer to give
a decorative appearance.
The edges of the door are lipped with a hardwood strip to ease the fitting of the door.
Core details
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Cellular core
Cellular core flush doors are the lightest and cheapest version of flush doors.
This type of door has a softwood outer framework which is glued, stapled or jointed
together. The core is covered with veneered faced plywood or hardboard. In some cases,
the facing material is pressed to form panels.
Exterior door facings should be of weather resistant materials such as exterior grade
plywood or oil-tempered hardboard.
This type of door derives its strength from the outer framework, and the type and strength
of the adhesive used to glue the facing material to the frame and the core. The edges of the
door are covered with thin laths called lippings (see sheet 11).
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Lippings
Lippings are thin laths glued or jointed to both edges of the door to cover the edges
of the facing material.
They are also used to make fitting the door easier as they can be planed to suit
door openings.
They are usually the same species of wood used as a facing veneer.
The drawings below show the different methods of applying the lippings to the door.
Non-lipped Lipped
Glazed openings
Glazed openings provide a vision panel which can prevent a collision when opening the
door. They also allow light to be transmitted from one are a to another.
The size and shape of the opening can vary. It can be square, rectangular, round or oval.
However, there are restrictions put on the size and shape of openings in fire-resisting flush
doors, and all glazing must be in accordance with current building regulations and BS 6206.
The distance from the edge of the door, which is called a margin, must be a minimum
of 127mm.
In some fire doors, the fire-resistant glass is held in place with an intumescent glazing
system (See Module 6: Fire Doors).
Margin details
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This type of door consists of a frame made of hardwood or softwood which can house one
or more panels in a variety of shapes and sizes.
The panels may be solid wood, manufactured board, glass, or a combination of all.
The frame of the door consists of stiles and rails jointed together using mortice and tenon
joints or dowels.
Some doors may have vertical intermediate rails called muntins or horizontal and/or vertical
glazing bars to accommodate glass panels. Muntins are also used to reduce the width of
the panels thus reducing the effect of shrinkage due to moisture movement.
The panels are usually fitted into grooves machined into the stiles, rails and muntins, but
there are other ways which the panels can be fitted and secured in place (See sheet 17).
The diagram below shows and names the parts of a panel door.
In purpose-made doors, the joints used are traditionally mortice and tenon joints. The top,
bottom and middle rail were through-jointed, and stub tenons were used for muntins and
glazing bars. The through-tenons were secured with glue and foxed wedges.
The tenon thickness should always be approximately one-third of the thickness of the stile.
The tenon should not exceed five times its thickness and haunches should be as deep as
the thickness of the tenon, and never less than 10mm.
The tenons should be clear of the top and bottom of the door by a distance of 25-32mm.
If the stiles and rails have been machined to include stuck moulding or bevels, the inside
edges of the tenon can be through-scribed on a tenon machine, or if hand cut, stopped-
scribed (See diagrams below).
The majority of panelled doors are mass-produce. To reduce costs and speed up
production most mass-produced, doors have dowelled joints to hold the frame together.
The dowels are usually hardwood and must be fluted to allow air and excess glue to escape
from the bottom of the dowel hole. The ends of the dowels are chamfered for easy location.
In addition to the dowel, the joint between the top rail and the stiles also incorporates a
haunch. This overcomes twisting of the joint and ensures that the two members will finish
flush on the face.
Panels
There are many different types of panel that can be fitted to panel doors. The types range
from plain plywood panels to more complex raised and fielded panels which are shaped
and moulded using woodworking machinery or portable power tools.
The panels are held in place using grooves or rebates machined into the stiles and rails,
or the frame edges can be left square and any mouldings planted and pinned to the
frame material.
Whatever method is used, the panels must be allowed to expand and shrink due to
moisture movement, therefore the moulding must be machined to the frame or pinned
to the frame, never to the panel.
The examples below show the different types of panel and the method of fitting them to the
frame.
The example below shows that the frame has been rebated on one edge and a moulding
on the other. The glazing panel is secured in the frame by a bead which has been pinned
to the frame.
Grooved frame
The example shows a frame which has been grooved to receive a plain plywood panel.
To distinguish the panel bolection moulding has added and pinned or screwed to the frame.
The bolection moulding can be rebated to sit over the frame. This type of moulding can hide
any contraction or expansion of the panel. The door can have a bolection moulding on both
sides or on one side, with a planted bead on the other.
Stuck moulding
The example below shows a stile with a moulding worked on both sides of the groove
which houses a simple plywood panel. The panels are built into the door during assembly.
Grooved frame
The example shows a frame which has been grooved to receive a plain plywood panel.
To distinguish the panel bolection moulding has added and pinned or screwed to the frame.
The bolection moulding can be rebated to sit over the frame. This type of moulding can hide
any contraction or expansion of the panel. The door can have a bolection moulding on both
sides or on one side, with a planted bead on the other.
Stuck moulding
The example below shows a stile with a moulding worked on both sides of the groove
which houses a simple plywood panel. The panels are built into the door during assembly.
Front view
Raised, sunk and fielded panel with bolection mould and planted bead.
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The construction of these doors is similar to that of panel doors, but the components are
rebated for glass instead of grooving for panels.
The glazed panels allow light to be transmitted from one area to another and, because of
this, these doors are often positioned in areas which need natural light. The glass may be
held in place by glazing compound or by beads.
In better quality doors, the beads are fastened with screws and cups rather than nailed.
The beads are machined with the same moulding as the other components and mitred
at the corners.
These doors are manufactured in many designs and variations. They often derive their name
from the number of glazing panels that the door has e.g.
• 3-panel.
• 4-panel.
• 6-panel.
• 8-panel etc.
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Batten doors are sometimes called matchboarded doors since the main component is
tongued and grooved matchboarding. The boarding is usually machined with a ‘V’ shaped
edges to allow the rain to run off the face of the door. The tongue and grooved (T&G) boards
are nailed to cross bearers called ledges. The nails are punched and clenched at the back.
The top edge of the ledges is sloped or ‘weathered’ to help disperse any rainwater.
This type of door is used for outbuildings, sheds and garages. If used externally, this type
of door should be treated with some form of preservative. There are three main types
of batten door:
• Ledged batten doors.
• Ledged and braced batten doors.
• Frame, ledged and braced batten doors.
The braces can cut at an angle to fit along the top and bottom edges of the ledges or
notched to give added strength.
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The top rail is haunched, morticed and tenoned to the stile to prevent the rail separating
from the frame. When making these doors, the stiles are usually left longer than the finished
size and protrude approximately 50 – 75mm above the rail. This is known as the ‘horn’, and
is cut off when fitting the door. The middle and bottom rails are thinner by as much as the
thickness of the T&G boarding and are bare faced tenoned into the stile.
The bracing fits square, cut neatly into the back of the door against the stile and rails.
As with braced doors this door, must be ‘handed’, so the bracing will run upwards away
from the hanging side.
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The main purpose of this type of door is to provide a barrier to the passage of fire and
smoke. The door, when closed, must provide a period of fire resistance to satisfy current fire
regulations. For the door to be effective, it is usually part of a unit consisting of the door and
frame which incorporate intumescent seals or strips which expand when exposed to heat,
thus stopping the passage of flames and smoke.
To achieve this all fire doors are self-closing, and all the door ironmongery fitted must
comply with the strict specifications required to achieve a fire resistance certification.
Each type of fire door, after testing, is classified according to its fire resistance. This
classification is based on the period of time the door remains stable, and is quoted in
minutes. The rating could be as low as 20 minutes or as high as 90 minutes.
It is very important that a correctly rated fire door is fitted in a position that has been
identified as a strategic location, e.g. at access points such as stairs and passageways.
Modern fire doors have a means of identifying their rating. This identification is provided
by a system of colour codes which can be a label or a plug set into the hanging edge of
the door.
White FD20
No additional intumescent
Green Yellow FD30
seals required
Blue FD60
Intumescent seals
These seals are available as paste or mastic. If they are fitted either into the frame or into
the door edge. The strips are fitted into grooves cut centrally into the rebate and will
expand when exposed to heat thereby sealing of the door opening and preventing the
spread of flames.
The seals can be fitted into the door edges. Doors with a fire rating of FD60 will require
twice the amount of intumescent strip. These strips are capable of sealing gaps up to
5mm wide.
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Door frames are the wooden frames fixed into openings onto which doors are fitted
and hung.
Door frames without cill are called open door frames and are used when clear access is
required at floor level, as for public buildings, shops or where wheelchair access is required.
Door frame which incorporate a cill or threshold are called closed door frames. This type
of frame is used for most private houses. The frame may include a transom: if so, the area
above is called a glazed fanlight. The frame may also include a glazed sidelight or a number
of glazed sidelights.
The frame can be made to suit an inward opening door or an outward opening door. The
frame can be made of either softwood are hardwood. If the frame is made of softwood,
the cill must be of hardwood to make it more durable. The component parts of the frame
are jointed together using mortice and tenon joints and are secured with wedges are draw
pins. Door frames are usually used to hang external doors but sometimes they can be used
internally.
The frame is assembled and fixed into either a preformed opening, or built into the shell
of the building as the brickwork progresses (see Sheet 37). If the frame is to be built in,
the frame must be assembled so that the head of the frame protrudes 75mm either side
of the jamb. This protrusion is called a horn and is splay cut so that it can be built into the
brickwork at the head of the frame.
This door frame has a threshold or cill, jointed to the stiles. The frame can be constructed to
suit either an inward opening door or an outward opening door. These frames may include a
glazed fanlight above the main frame, or sidelights to one or both sides of the door frame.
This is used to form openings in walls for doors and window frames which are to be fitted at
a later stage of the building operation.
These profiles are generally used when the door and window frames are not yet on site or if
the frames to be fitted are the uPVC double-glazed unit type which can be fitted after all the
construction work is completed.
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The frames are fixed using a proprietary wall tie, or nailed or screwed into wooden slips
inserted into the brickwork.
Proprietary fixing clamp screwed to frame Wooden slip inserted into brickwork
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Storey Frames
Storey frames have jambs that are room height or story height – this is why they are called
storey frames. The jambs are grooved so that partition walls can sit inside the frame, giving
it more strength and stability. They are also nailed to the floor joists for added strength.
Because the frame is erected before the internal walls are built, the frame will provide a
guide for the partition wall. This type of frame may have a glazed light above; if not the
space above the door opening is faced with plasterboard sheeting.
Door linings are also frames to which doors are fitted and hung. They are normally made of
thinner sectioned timber and are classified as follows:
• Narrow linings.
or
• Wide linings.
• Framed linings.
Sets consist of the unassembled components which make up the lining, e.g. head and legs.
Some manufacturers produce door linings that have the head housed on each side so that
it can be used for:
• 762mm wide doors.
or
• 686mm wide doors.
Before assembling the lining sets, the legs must be checked to make sure they are straight
and free from twist.
Legs that are hollowed or bowed should be assembled with the hollow face on the inside.
This makes it easier to fix in place. However, it is only legs which have a square housing
joint that can be positioned in this way. Linings with a tongued and groove joint must be
assembled with the tongue to the inside of the assembled lining.
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The linings can be assembled either on site or in the workshop. The joints are secured by
nailing the head to the legs by skew nailing. This helps prevent the nails from pulling out.
The nails used can be roundhead wire nails, oval nails or lost head nails.
When the lining is assembled it is checked to ensure that the legs and head are square to
each other. Temporary braces are nailed to the legs and head to ensure that they are kept
square. Other temporary braces are nailed to the legs to keep them parallel until the lining is
fixed (see Sheet 45).
Unlike door frames linings cover the whole of the doorway reveal, and the type of lining
used will depend on the width of the reveal, i.e. narrow, wide or framed.
Below are the categories of linings with examples where and when they should be used.
Brickwork Blockwork
Rebated Plain
To overcome this problem, framed panels are used or the opening is prepared by fixing
framed grounds to the wall material and then the grounds are faced with plywood or similar
sheeting material. If plywood is used, the edges are faced with a strip of solid timber to
conceal the edge of the plywood.
Where panels are used, similar grounds are fixed in place, and a framed panel is fixed
to the ground. The panels can be similar to panels used in panel doors, and the frame is
constructed of a framework of rails and stiles morticed together.
Framed linings
These are often referred to as framed grounds or skeleton lining. The framework can
be jointed together using mortice and tenon joints. As an alternative to this type of
construction, the joints can be doweled, or biscuits can be used to hold the frame together.
This type of framework can be put together in the workshop or on site, but care should be
taken to ensure that the framework is not twisted or out of square with the wall face.
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Lining Joints
When the building is weather tight, all the internal preparatory carpentry work is carried out
before plastering begins. This stage is known as the ‘first fix’ stage.
The fixing of internal linings is carried out at this stage in the construction process.
There are certain facts that need to be considered before fixing begins i.e.
• Door lining legs rest directly onto timber floors. Provided that the legs have been cut to
the required height and the floor is level, the door lining head will also be level and at the
same height as all other door linings within the room or building.
• Door lining legs do not rest directly onto concrete floors. A gap is left to allow for the final
sand and cement floor screed to be laid.
• To ensure that all the door lining heads are level and at the same height above a concrete
floor, a datum line is marked on the blockwork or walls on each side of the opening.
• Datum lines are usually marked by the foreman at a distance of 1.2m down from the
required height of the door lining head.
• All door linings are the fixed with the head 1.2m above this line. This is essential to
ensure that door lining heads are at the same height, especially important in hallways
and corridors. This is where different lining heads height would be noticed.
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Softwood linings in domestic buildings are generally fixed by nailing. The types of nail
used are:
• Cut clasp nails for nailing directly into blockwork. The nails are 60–75mm in length.
• Oval nails for nailing directly into studwork or timber slips or plugs. The nails are
60–75mm in length.
• Timber slips or pallets are inserted into the inside face of brickwork openings to provide
a means of fixing. These slips are built into the wall as the brickwork proceeds.
• Twisted timber plugs are also used. These are also inserted into the brickwork, but after
the brickwork has been completed. The plugs are hammered into slots which have been
raked out of the mortar joints approximately every three courses and to a depth of
70–75mm.
• Proprietary fixings can also be used. These fixings are inserted into holes drilled
through the lining and into the brickwork. The holes should not be drilled until the frame
has been secured in place within the wall opening.
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Folding wedges are used to straighten and plumb lining legs when directly fixed to
blockwork openings.
These wedges consist of two wedges each approximately 150mm long and 32mm wide.
Folding wedges are cut on a circular rip saw using a purpose made jig. This should always
be done by a person who is qualified to use a circular saw.
Linings which are fixed into openings in studwork partitions should require little or no
straightening using folding wedges as the carpenter will have formed the
opening accurately.
Linings which are fixed to timber slips in openings in walls constructed with facing bricks,
should require little straightening. This is because a temporary wooden frame or profile is
used to form an accurate opening.
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Legs checked for twist by sighting Folding wedges cut off after
along the opposite edge of the leg checking inside of leg for plumb
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• Linings for serving hatches and access traps have four sides.
• These linings are fitted and fixed the same as door linings.
• Linings for access traps are fixed parallel to the longest adjacent wall.
• Linings for serving hatches and access traps are squared by measuring the diagonals.
• Loft access traps are set and fixed down below ceiling joists a distance corresponding
to the thickness of plasterboard and skim below ceiling joist.
• The sides of hatch and access trap linings are checked for straightness using
a straightedge.
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Door ironmongery is the term used to describe the metal items used to hang and secure the
door within the door frame. These are:
• Hinges.
• Latches and locks.
• Door knobs and handles.
• Door closers.
On building contracts where there are a large number of doors to be installed, it is usual for
a door schedule to be prepared.
A door schedule is a document which has all the information a joiner will require in selecting
the correct door for a designated position, as well as the correct ironmongery that has to be
fitted to each door.
Description D1 D2 D3 D4 D5
Hardwood exterior six-panelled door’
X
2040 x 826 x 44mm Cat log No Ex 24534
Ironmongery
X
75mm steel butts No3 per door
Door Hanging
Door hanging is the term used to describe the fitting and method of attaching the door to
its frame or lining with hinges. The door must hang freely so that it opens and closes easily.
Doors can be hung on the left side of a frame or the right side of a frame. The edge of
the door to which the hinges are secured is called the hanging edge and the other edge
is called the closing edge. It is this opening and closing action of the door that is
called handing.
The diagram below shows a method of determining the handing of a door. It is this action
that determines the correct hand of the lock.
• Doors are termed as either left or right hand hung depending on which vertical edge
shown on the drawings opens away from you.
• Doors should never open onto a light switch.
• Doors should open in such a way so as to retain privacy of a room.
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Hinge positions
Internal lightweight doors are usually hung on one pair of 75mm hinges. Heavier doors
require stronger hinges such as one pair of 100mm hinges.
External and fire doors require 1½ pairs of 100mm hinges. The positions of the hinges
are shown in the diagram above. The manufacturers usually incorporate lock blocks within
flush doors.
Night latches are positioned between 1200 and 1500mm from the floor.
Letter plates
These are usually positioned centrally within the width of a flush door or where the
manufacturer recommends.
With panel doors with a central rail, the letter plate is positioned within the width of the
central rail.
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Hinges
Hinges are the ironmongery that holds the door in position and allows it to swing open and
closed. There many types of hinge. Here are some of the more common types.
When hanging the door, one leaf is recessed into the door and the other recessed into the
frame. Care must be taken when fitting these hinges, because even though they are strong,
they are very hey are very brittle and can break it struck with a metal hammer.
When hanging the door, one leaf is recessed into the door and the other recessed into the
frame with the knuckle of the hinge protruding.The knuckle is slightly cranked to provide a
gap between the door and the frame.
Steel butt
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Steel washered
Flush hinges
This type of hinge has two leaves. This hinge, when closed, gives the appearance of having
one leaf only, as one of the leaves is smaller than the other and sits within a recess in the
other leaf. The leaves are cranked and the knuckle protrudes from the edge of the frame
and door.
The hinge leaves are fitted directly to the door and the frame and are secured through
countersunk screw holes. This type of hinge is used for lightweight doors such as
cupboards and hollow internal doors.
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This type of hinge allows the door to be lifted off its hinges when fully open, providing the
door leaf projects beyond any wall trims such as architraves etc.
Each pair of hinges consists of one long pin and one short pin to ease assembly.
Parliament hinge
This is a steel hinge with a fixed pin and uncranked knuckle. The design of this hinge allows
the door to fully open against a wall where it would otherwise bind against any trims such
as architraves.
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‘H’ hinge
This hinge is similar to the parliament hinge except that it does not have an extended
knuckle. The knuckle is smaller than conventional hinges and does not extend to the top or
bottom of the hinge.
When the door is closed the hinge shows a smaller knuckle and, on small cabinet doors, it
looks tidier.
The hinge incorporates a helical spring encased within the barrel of the hinge and which
can be adjusted by means of a special key which is provided with the hinge.
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Tee hinge
Strap hinge
Thumb latch
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Door furniture is anything that is fixed directly or indirectly to the door leaf or door frame or
lining. For example:
• Locks and latches.
• Lever handles and knobs.
• Letter plates.
• Door closers, finger or kicking plates.
• Security bolts.
Latches
Latches do not lock a door but latch it in place within the frame and are operated by a set
of handles or knobs.
Locks
Locks latch and secure the door within the frame. The latching mechanism is operated by
means of a set of handles or knobs, and the securing mechanism is by means of a lock
which prevents the latching mechanism from being operated. The locking operation is by
a key which is solely designed for the lock in use. No other key should be able to open the
door except keys that have been cut and shaped to fit the lock in question.
Mortice latch
This latch is similar to a mortice lock except that it has no locking mechanism. This type of
lock is manufactured in different depth sizes. Narrow sizes will be required for doors with
narrow stiles.
Roller latch
This latch is similar to the tubular latch except that the latch is a roller instead of the more
traditional curved latch design. The striking plate or keep a curved recess to accommodate
the roller latch.
Roller latch
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Rim latch
A rim latch is fixed to the inside face of the door. The latch is operated by a set of knobs
fixed to a spindle.
Rim latch
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Locks
Rim lock
This lock is similar in shape and style to a rim latch except that it has a locking mechanism.
The locking mechanism is operated by a key which moves a series of sprung levers which
move the bolt into a locking position.
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Mortice lock
There are many types and sizes of mortice lock. This type of lock is inserted into a moticed
hole in a door stile. The keep or striking plate is recessed into the face of the frame rebate.
The lock is operated by means of a series of levers that are moved by a key which, in turn,
moves a deadbolt which inserts into the keep. The lock catch is operated by means of a set
of door handles.
Mortice lock
Mortice deadlock
Mortice deadlocks are similar to mortice locks except that these locks do not have a sprung
latch. Their only function is to lock and secure a door. The lever movement is the same as
upright mortice lock.
The lever mechanism is exactly the same as for an upright mortice lock.
The lock body and striking plate have an arrangement where one fits into the other. The
striking plate fits into the leaf of the door that is secured, and the lock arrangement is fitted
to the opening leaf of the door.
The lock also has a sprung catch which is operated by a set of door handle which are
secured to a steel spindle inserted through the lock body.
Door knobs
Door handles
Door handles are manufactured and sold in sets. Sometimes the set includes a lock spindle.
The spindle is inserted into the pre-cut hole and passes through the lock body morticed
into the door stile. Each end of the spindle is inserted into a square hole in the back of each
handle. The handle is then screwed to the door, securing the spindle in place.
Door closer
The function of a door closer is to make the door self-closing. There many different types
of closers. The example shown is called an overhead closer with a lever arm. This consists
of a main body and a hinged lever arm. The body encases a small hydraulic piston which
expands and contracts as the door is opened and closed. There are types of door closers
that are concealed within the door and frame; these closers are called concealed closers.
Letter plate
There are many shapes and sizes and designs for letter plates. They require an elongated
hole cut through the door. They are secured in place by two long, threaded bolts which fit
into two bosses welded to the back of the face plate. The letter flap is hinged onto a sprung
central pin which closes the flap when not in use.
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• Folding wedges are used to straighten and plumb lining legs when directly fixed to
blockwork openings.
• Door ironmongery is the term used to describe the metal items used to hang and secure
the door within the door frame.
• Door hanging is the term used to describe the fitting and method of attaching the door
to its frame or lining with hinges.
• Doors are termed as either left or right hand hung depending on which vertical edge
shown on the drawings opens away from you.
• Hinges are the ironmongery that holds the door in position and allows it to swing open
and closed.
• Door ironmongery is often referred to as door furniture.
• Locks and latches are mechanisms used to secure a door within the frame.
• A mortice lock is a type of lock is morticed into the door stile.
• A lever lock is a lock that is operated by levers.
• Mortice dead locks are similar to mortice locks except that these locks do not have
a sprung latch.
• The cylinder rim lock is a type of lock that is often referred to as a night latch.
• Door handles are manufactured and sold in sets.
• The function of a door closer is to make the door self-closing.
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The test may involve you working alone or in a small group. Whatever task you are assigned
you must retain all the finished work and draft copies of the reference documents that
you have used to complete your assignment. These documents are evidence of your
competence.
Before commencing this test, read through all the material to ensure that you fully
understand what you must do. If in doubt, ask your tutor.
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4. What is a lipping?
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5. By means of sketches, show two examples of how lippings are jointed to flush doors.
6. What is a muntin?
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7. By means of a sketch, show where and why a diminished style is used in the
construction of a door.
8. By means of sketches show how the following panel joints are used in the construction
of panel doors:
a) Bead and butt.
b) Rebate and bead.
c) Rebated and bolection mould.
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9. By means of sketches, show the difference between a raised panel and a raised and
fielded panel.
10. What type of hinge would be used on a ledged and batten door?
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11. What is the difference between a rim lock and a mortice lock?
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12. Name the types of hinges shown below and say why and where they would be used.
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15. Using the drawings of the small bungalow provided in Section 2, complete a suitable
door schedule to include all the doors in the bungalow.
Description D1 D2 D3 D4 D5
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Trainee Name
Date
Comments Yes No
Question 1
Question 2
Question 3
Question 4
Question 5
Question 6
Question 7
Question 8
Question 9
Question 10
Question 11
Question 12
Question 13
Question 14
Question 15
Tutor Date