DIFFERENT KINDS OF COLLARS

Flat Tennis Collar

Tennis collar flat
A tennis collar is a flat shirt collar for made of the same material as the shirt it is on(usually
a tennis shirt). This is preferred for tennis attire as it is comfortable and non restrictive.
Peter Pan collar

This is quintessential flat collar – it lies flat against the garment, as much as it could. The
special feature of this flat collar is its rounded shape. This feminine collar is used on frocks
for girls. This collar may have a slit in the back and the front.

Cape collar
Flat collar on kids’ frocls
This collar is similar to peter pan collar, just bigger. Where Peterpan collar may have a
tapered width, this collar is the same throughout. This collar has a rounded back and slit in
the front.
Bishop collar
Flate collar -bishops collar
This collar hangs the same way the vestament of bishops’ hang. The collar forms a W shape
on the front.

Classic Point collar

This is the traditional Turned down collar- Most of the shirts I see have this kind of collar.
It is a 2 piece high stand collar with the ends of the collar pointed.The collar spread (the
gap between the collar points) is narrow and the collar point length is around 70 mm to 90
mm.

Spread collar
This is a turned-down collar with a wide spread and shorter collar point length. The wide
distance between collar points helps to show off wide tie knots – even in this, there is a lot of
variety. The collar spread can vary from wide to very wide Also called a Shark collar. The
spread collar gives a more casual vibe than the point collar.
Cutaway collar
This is a spread collar with a very wide spread between the collar points. The spread line
can almost be horizontal. The band is narrower. This collar gives a more casual look to the
shirt.

Button down Point collar

This is a turned down collar with small buttonholes at the collar point ends. The shirt has
buttons which are then fastened to the buttonholes on the collar ends. Keeps the collar ends
down.

Wing Collar
This collar is a standing collar with the ends sticking out like wings. It is usually seen on
formal shirts (evening dress – dinner jackets or tailcoats) ; or worn by barristers as a
detachable collar.

Tab collar
This type of classic point collar has a tab keeping the two collar points together – this will
come under the tie knot.

Club collar
This is a turned down collar with the collar points curved at the front. It gives the shirt an
informal look.

Band collar
This is a collar with just the collar stand – no collar leaf. Also called Mao collar, Nehru
collar, Mandarin collar and Grand dad collar.
Detachable collar/Banker’s collar
This is a separate collar that you can fasten on your band collared shirt with studs. The
advantage of this shirt collar is that you can starch it stiff without treating your whole shirt
this way.

Camp/Cuban/Cabana collar
This is a one piece collar – there is no collar stand. It is worn open without a tie. Gives a
casual relaxed vibe These shirt collars are associated with resort wear/leisure wear and
sleepwear. Think Hawaian shirts and camp shirts; Or pajama shirts. Though it is not
common on formal shirts, they can be seen in summer dress shirts meant for office wear.

Barrymore Collar
This is a shirt collar with long pointy edges. Called so after American actor John
Barrymore who popularised this collar.
 DIFFERENT KINDS OF SLEEVES
Regular sleeve
There are 2 ways a sleeve is attached – Set in sleeve is a normal sleeve with a high rounded
sleeve cap. The sleeve is attached after the bodice and the sleeve is finished. This is a sleeve
which is set into the armscye with the sleeve head curved to adjust to the roundness of the

shoulder.
Raglan sleeves
This is a sleeve joined to the bodice with a diagonal seam running from the underarm front
and back in to the neckline.

Cap sleeves
This is a sleeve which just about covers the top of the arm. It is a short sleeve. You also call
it ap sleeves when the shoulder fabric is extended up and over the shoulder cap without
breaking to extend slightly down the arm. The effect is the same in both cases
Extended Cap sleeves
This sleeve is a cap sleeve with a small extension from the shoulder. Checkout this tunic
pattern with extended sleeves .

Bracelet sleeves (Three fourth sleeve)

This sleeve has a length between elbow and the wrist. The whole idea is that when you wear
this sleeve you can see your bracelet. From the elbow it measures about 4 inches.

Lantern sleeves
This is a long sleeve with two sections. The top portion of this sleeve flares from the sleeve
head towards the wrist. The bottom part flares from a fitting wrist to meet the flare from
the top. The two parts are joined by a seam which maintains its flared lantern shape. A long
lantern sleeve and short lantern sleeve can be made.
Man’s shirt sleeve with cuff
This sleeve has two pleats at the buttoned cuff and a placket opening.

Leg of mutton sleeves

This is a full gathered sleeve head which tapers to fit towards the wrist giving it the
appearance of a leg of mutton.

Juliet Sleeve
This is similar to the leg of mutton sleeve. The difference being that this sleeve has two
parts to it. The top part at the sleeve head is very full . This is gathered and joined to a
fitted sleeve part in the lower arm.
Bell sleeves
The Sleeve has a full flare at the hem giving it a bell shape.This tutorial for a flared dress
pattern has instructions to make bell sleeves.

Cape sleeve / Circular sleeve

This is a shorter version of the bell sleeve, mostly shorter than elbow – very flared. Flared
sleeve ending an inch or so above the elbow is called Capelet sleeves.

Frill Sleeve / Flute sleeves

This sleeve is fitted till the elbow and from there a frill is attached. The frill can be
Umbrella frill in which a skirt is cut as we do for umbrella skirts , or Flared frill which has
lesser flare or pleated frill.
Pagoda sleeve

This is sleeve which is fitted on the upper arm and has tiered frills on the lower part of the
arm to the wrist. Usually there are three tiers.

Bishop sleeve
This is a sleeve with a fitted upper part and a flared lower part. The flares are gathered at
the wrist by a cuff.

Square armhole sleeve

The armhole is designed not curved but angular, mostly square shaped. This is an
interesting design element.
 DIFFERENT TYPES OF SKIRTS
A line skirt
This skirt has a slight flare which makes this one look like a capital letter A. Hence the
name A line skirt. This is one of the most common and popular silhouettes among skirts.

Fitted skirt (Pencil skirt/Tube skirt)

As the name indicates this is a form fitting skirt from waist to the hips usually with the help
of darts.

Gathered skirt / Full skirt

This skirt is a simple skirt gathered at the waistline. Another name is Bouffant skirt.
Mini Skirt
A Mini skirt is a short skirt, approximately 10 to 17 inches in length. Other names given to
this shirt are bondage skirt, Pelmet skirt. A Micro Mini is an even shorter dress, typically
about 10 inches or smaller.

Draped Skirt
A draped skirt has fullness gathered or draped on one side It is also called a Sarong draped
skirt. Sarong is a square piece of fabric which can be wrapped around the body to make a
skirt. A Sarong drape skirt is a sarong wraped around the body and worn like a skirt.

Layered skirt
In this type of skirt layers of ruffled fabric are arranged one on top of the other to form a

skirt.
Gored skirt
This is a paneled skirt with sections of fabric giving fullness to an A line silhouette.
Trumpet skirt
A trumpet shaped skirt is fitted near the waist and till the bottom hem and then flares
outside near the hem. A mermaid skirt is a trumpet shaped skirt. Another name is a fish tail
skirt.

Wrap skirt
This is a one piece skirt which is wrapped around the body, overlapping and fastened with
the help of ties or a button closure.

Divided skirt
A divided skirt looks like a skirt with wide flares but is actually divided into two legs like
pants
Box pleat skirt with yoke
Box-pleated skirt with a yoke
A wide yoke is given near the waist making it fitting there and then the pleats are added,
usually at the hip level.

Pleated skirt
This type of skirt has pleats or a single pleat arranged around the waistband or a yoke.
Inverted pleated skirt, Knife-pleated skirt, Box pleated skirt are different types of pleated
skirts. An Accordion skirt is a pleated skirt made of machine pleated fabric.
Asymmetrical Hem skirt
These are skirts with a hem which looks asymmetrical ; A Handkerchief skirt is one, which
looks like you are holding down a handkerchief pinching its center, with its corners
hanging down.

Box pleated skirt

Box-pleated skirts
A box pleat results in a raised band of fabric with folds on either side.

Yoke Skirt
These are skirts with two parts to them – the yoke above and the skirt below. The yoke
may be of different types – round, asymmetrical or triangular. The part below may be
gathered or pleated.
Tennis skirt
In sports, a tennis skirt is a white, short, pleated skirt but in fashion, any color goes. A
tennis skirt features inverted pleats which contain the fullness at the waist till the hips and
then the fullness is released to give it a nice flare. It is currently very popular among young
girls.

Pleated hem skirt

This skirt will have pleated ruffles at the hem – this pleated portion serves more as a trim.