From old

to fun!

Drafting
complex
hip
gussets
Drafting complex hip gussets 1/9

We start this tutorial by making both front

and back gussets, as shown in
“Drafting simple hip gussets” tutorial, which I’m
also using an an example corset design.

With the gussets prepared, we can get to the

businness of connecting the on the side
seam to make one BIG pattern piece.

2 4
3 5

Front Back
gusset gusset
Drafting complex hip gussets 2/9

In this tutorial, I will build further on my first

hip gusset tutorial to make it easier to follow.

Feel free to use this same method on your

own designs. Process is the same, shapes are
a bit different.

Side view
1/2 Front view 1/2 Back view
Drafting complex hip gussets 3/9

Draw a straight line, a bit longet then the

gusset side seam.

Starting from the point of front gusset,

match the side seam with straight line as far
as they can.
Do the same for back gusset.

Mark the point where side seams stop

matching the straigh line.
Can be different for front and back gusset.

Fro c k
gu nt a
B sse t
sse
t gu
Drafting complex hip gussets 4/9

Using a drawing compass measure length

from “0” to “X”.

With compass needle still in “0”, measure

and mark points “X1” and“X2” on gusset
seam lines.

Gusset seams from “0” to “X1” and “X2” will

remain as they are, unaffected by future
changes to pattern pieces.
0 X2
X1

Fro X k
gu nt a c t
sse B sse
t gu
Drafting complex hip gussets 5/9

Draw horizontal lines on the right angle to

starting straight line, from it to the bottom
point of front gusset, marked “y”.

Repeat the process for the back gusset.

Marked “z”.

With this, we have prepared the two halves

of a dart for its “removal”.

Fro c k
gu nt a
B sse t
sse
t gu

y z
Drafting complex hip gussets 6/9

Measure length “y”.

Measure the same length on the opposite
seam line of the front gusset, following the
bottom edge line.
Mark the point as “y1”.

Repeat the process for length “z” and back

gusset and mark point “z1”.

Mark seam line “X1”, “0” to “X2” as is!

Fro c k
gu nt a
B sse t
sse
t gu z1

y1
y z
Drafting complex hip gussets 7/9

Stab Front gusset pattern piece with a pin

on mark “X1” to pivot it until it touches
mark “y1”.

Trace front gusset pattern piece out.

Repeat the process for Back gusset piece.

Not shown to avoid overlapping confusion.

Mark point “X1”, “0” and “X2” well.

0 X2
X1

Fro c k
gu nt a
B sse t
sse z1
t gu
y1
Drafting complex hip gussets 8/9

Refine the shape of all seam lines.

We have a bit more freedom with the shape

of bottom edge but do reference your design
for guidence.

You can use grain line from the front or back

starting gusset. Just pick one and stick to it.

Fro a c k
gu nt B set
sse u s
t g
Drafting complex hip gussets 9/9

Walk the seam line of the new BIG hip

gusset with the rest of the pattern pieces.
Adjust what needs adjusting and don’t forget
to add notches.
Always make a mockup!

Happy sewing!

Front Back
gusset gusset

Fro
of nt
gu big
sse
t