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CBLM Raise Small Ruminants
CBLM Raise Small Ruminants
CBLM Raise Small Ruminants
LEARNING MATERIALS
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Sector:
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Instruction sheets:
Job Sheet – This is designed to guide you how to do job that will
contribute to the attainment of the learning outcome.
Worksheet – are the different forms that you need to fill up in certain
activities that you performed
You may already have some or most of the knowledge and skills
covered in this learner’s guide because you have:
Been working for some time
Already completed training in this area
Talk to your trainer about having them formally recognized. If you have
a qualification or certificate of competence from previous training, show it to
your trainer. If the skills you acquired are still current and relevant to the unit/s
of competency they may become part of the evidence you can present for
RPL. If you are not sure about the accuracy of your skills discuss this with
your trainer.
Inside this learner’s guide you will find the activities for you to complete
and at the back are the relevant information sheets for each learning
outcome. Each learning outcome may have more than one learning activities.
At the back of this learner’s guide is a Learner’s Diary. Use this diary
to record important dates, jobs undertaken and other workplace events that
will assist you in providing further details to your trainer or an assessor. A
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Record of Achievement is also provided for your trainer to complete once
you complete the module.
CODE : AGR621302
CERTIFICATE LEVEL : NC II
PREREQUISITE :
INSTRUCTIONS
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PRE-REQUISITE MODULES. Before you start this Module, you must already
have finished the Module on Tool competencies and Common competencies;
In his module you will learn and practice how to Raise Swine, you
must do the following activities;
INTRODUCTION:
MODULE DESCRIPTOR:
This module covers the knowledge, skills and attitudes Raise Small
Ruminants. You may tear a blank answer sheets at the end of the module to
reflect your answer for each self-check. This unit covers the knowledge, skills and
attitudes required to raise small ruminants such as goats and sheep. It includes
selection of genetically superior animals for breeding, management of does/ewes
and their progenies implement feeding and herd health program and maintain
and analyze records.
Summary of Outcomes:
Assessment Criteria
1. Suitable and superior breeds of goats and sheep are identified based
on industry standard;
2. Bucks and rams are well fed and groomed regularly;
3. Signs of heat are detected among sexually mature does and ewes;
4. Breeder does and ewes are mated with genetically superior
rams/bucks;
5. Pregnant animals are diagnosed/confirmed;
6. Unproductive buck/ram and does/ewes are culled
7. Signs of pre-heat, standing heat and post heat are detected;
8. Breeder buck/rams and does/ewes are properly housed
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Assessment Criteria
Assessment Criteria
Assessment Criteria
Assessment Criteria
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LO1. Information Sheet No. 1
Breeds of Goats
Anglo Nubian
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The Boer goat was
developed in South Africa in
the early 1900s for meat
production. Their name is
derived from the Dutch word
"Boer" meaning farmer. The
Boer goat was probably bred
from the indigenous goats of
the Namaqua Bushmen and
the Fooku tribes, with some
crossing of Indian and
European bloodlines being
possible. They were selected
for meat rather than milk
production; due to selective
breeding and improvement, the Boer goat has a fast growth rate and excellent
carcass qualities, making it one of the most popular breeds of meat goat in
the world. Boer goats have a high resistance to disease and adapt well to hot,
dry semi-deserts. U.S. production is centered in west-central Texas,
particularly in and around San Angelo. The original US breeding stock came
from herds located in New Zealand. Only later were they imported directly
from South Africa.
Boer goats commonly have white bodies and distinctive brown heads. Like
the Nubian goat, they possess long, pendulous ears. They are noted for being
docile, fast growing, and having high fertility rates. Does are reported to have
superior mothering skills as compared to other goats. Mature Boer bucks
weigh between 110-135 kg (240-300 lb), and mature does between 90-100 kg
(200-220 lb).
Cherter white
The Saanen is solid white to light cream coloured, a Swiss breed that is well
respected for its dairy qualities. Purebred Saanens were one of the first
breeds imported to North America from Switzerland, and were found to be
productive, cold-resistant and docile.
The colour pattern of the Toggenburg is strictly enforced: a solid brown coat
with white stripes on the face, white triangular patch on either side of the tail,
and white below hocks and knees. No white spots of significant size are
allowed.
In the early twentieth century, it was noticed that some individuals in large
herds of Spanish meat goats had very short ears. This genetically dominant
characteristic appealed to some dairy breeders, who used dairy goats of
several breeds to develop the LaMancha breed.
LaManchas tend to be somewhat shorter and blockier than most other breeds
of dairy goats, but are widely respected for their even temperament and
steady production of fairly high fat milk. No colour or pattern is discriminated
against in this breed, but ears must be short, especially in bucks.
Instead of being tattooed in the ears like other goats, LaManchas are tattooed
in the bare skin on the underside of the tail.
Breeds of Sheep
Afrino
During the late 1960's, a request was made to the Department of Agriculture
by the wool industry, via the South African Agricultural Union, to develop a
white-wooled breed for extensive sheep grazing areas. In 1976, it was evident
that the crossing of 25 percent Merino, 25 percent Ronderib Afrikaner, and 50
percent South African Mutton Merino best fullfilled the requirements set for the
new breed. It was decided to retain only this cross for further upgrading and
development of the breed known today as the Afrino. Eighty percent of the
income from Afrino sheep is generated through meat production and 20
percent through wool production. The Afrino produces Merino-type wool, with
a fiber diameter ranging from 19 to 22 microns.
American Blackbelly
The American Blackbelly is a composite breed resulting from the crossing of
Barbados Blackbelly on the Mouflon and Rambouillet breeds. As the name
implies, the underbelly of the American Blackbelly is black, as is the inside of
the legs, the back part of the thighs, and the hair inside the ears. Two black
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facial barbs extend down the muzzle medial to the eye, giving the breed an
exotic appearance. Through selective breeding, the American Blackbelly has
retained the coloration of its Barbados Blackbelly parent stock, but can be
easily distinguished by the presence of horns on the rams. It is harder to
identify which breed a ewe represents because American Blackbelly females
may be polled, scurred, or horned, with the majority being polled. Because
this sheep is popular with the trophy hunting markets, "trophy racks" are
heavily selected for in American Blackbelly breeding stock. The American
Blackbelly is a hair sheep, although in some areas of the U.S., American
Middle White
Blackbelly may develop a winter undercoat of fine wool fiber that is shed in
the spring. The American Blackbelly is known for its vitality, thrift, easy
lambing, and lean carcass. [text provided by Carol Elkins]
Aragonesa
The Rasa Aragonesa sheep is the second most important Spanish breed after
the Merino breed. Spanish sheep breeds of medium quality wool are
considered to have originated from the crossbreeding of fine-wool strains
(Merino) and those with coarse wool (Churra and Lacha), though this
viewpoint is overly simplistic. The Rasa Aragonesa breed, which owes its
name to the region where it is of most importance, as well as to the length of
its wool ("rasa" = threadbare), is raised mainly for its meat. Among the
outstanding qualities of the Rasa Aragonesa are its high degree of
ruggedness, gregarious instinct, pasturing ability, and adaptability to the harsh
environment in which it is raised.
Assaf
The Assaf sheep is the result of crossbreeding the Awassi and East Friesian
Milk sheep. In 1955, researchers of the Israeli Agricultural Research
Organization (A.R.O) started this project aiming to improve the fecundity of
the Awassi sheep. A combination of 3/8 East Friesian and 5/8 Awassi blood
emerged as the best cross. Most dairy sheep breeders in Israel have adopted
the Assaf, which is considered not only a top quality dairy sheep and excellent
mutton producer, but is also well-adapted to semi-extensive to extensive
production systems. Under Israeli conditions, in which ewes have
approximately 3 lambings in 2 years, the annual milk yield is 450 liters. The
demand for Assaf sheep is increasing every year. They have been exported
to Spain, Portugal, Chile and Peru.
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Self Check Questionnaire No.1
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Answer Key No.1
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LO1. Information Sheet No. 2
Proper Feeding Practices
GUIDE IN FEEDING:
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1. Begin with enough land to provide the goat/sheep enough hay.
2. Let goats forage in the first until brush is browsed down, or the
pasture is grazed to about two inches.
3. Remove the herd until browse re-grows six to twelve inches, or
pasture reaches six to eight inches.
4. Raise kids away from adults where they won’t pick up worms.
5. Separate wethers to maximize the growth for meat production.
Feeding the Dry Doe. A pregnant, dry doe should be adequately fed with
quality feeds in order to build reserves for coming lactation and also to nourish
the developing fetus or fetuses. Nutritious grasses and legumes, whether cut
or in pasture, will normally be sufficient to support the doe. However, if you
observe that your pregnant doe looks thin, give her about ½ to 1 kilo of
concentrate every day. A concentrate high in fiber such as plain corn and rice
bran can be given a few days before kidding and will act as a laxative. The
lessening of the contents of the digestive tract can help the doe to kid more
easily.
Feeding the Milking Doe. Feed your milking does as much good quality
grasses and legumes as they can eat. For every kilo of milk that a doe gives,
feed her with one kilo concentrate. Fresh water and mineral lick brick or loose
coarse salt should be provided to the doe freely. If the doe does not consume
all her concentrate, reduce the next day’s feeding by the amount she did not
eat. From time to time increase her feed to see if she needs more than you
are giving her.
Feeding the Buck Your buck for breeding should be fed properly. When not
being used, feed him at least one-half kilo of concentrate every day plus give
him, plenty of grasses and legumes. However, do not overfeed your buck
with concentrate for this will make him fat and non-aggressive. But when he
is scheduled for service, increase his concentrate to one kilo per day two
weeks before and during the breeding period in order to keep him fertile and
in good condition.
Feeding the young goats. The goal of feeding yearling or young goats is not
to fatten them, but rather to provide them enough nutrients for maintenance
and growth. Adequate space for exercise plus abundant quality of grasses
and legumes are important for yearlings. Feed each of them ½ kilo
concentrate daily.
Feeding the baby goats. Let the kid be with the mother for the first five days.
This will enable the baby goat to suck milk whenever it is hungry and also get
the colostrums needed for its good health. The colostrums contain antibodies
that serve as protection from disease. You can also bottle feed the kid in
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cases where: a.) there are more than two kids from a doe; b.) a doe is unable
to nurse her own kids due to sickness; c.) a doe died after the delivery; and,
d.) you prefer to use the goat milk for your consumption or for sale.
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Answer Key No.2:
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SPACE/HOUSING REQUIREMENTS
TYPE
Does:
Buck:
Housing 40 sq. ft
Stall partition height 100 sq.ft
Yard 100 sq.ft
Fence Height 6 ft.
House buck at least fifty feet from the doe to prevent them from
becoming overly excited during breeding season.
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Learning Outcome 2: Manage Does/Ewes and their Progenies
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LO2. Information Sheet No. 1
Management of Does/Ewes
The first ration provides approximately 14 percent CP and the second about
16 percent CP. Goats dislike finely ground, dusty feeds, so grains should be
coarsely ground, rolled, crimped, or pelleted. It is recommended you add a
trace mineralized salt and a balanced, 12 percent calcium:12 percent
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phosphorus supplement to any ration. You can add molasses to the
supplement (5 to 7 percent usually is recommended) to reduce dust and to
enhance palatability. Also, always have salt available to the goats.
For the first 3 to 4 days after birth, a kid should receive 2 to 3 pints of milk in
three to four feedings per day. Kids can be fed twice per day thereafter. A
creep feed containing approximately 20 percent CP and a high-quality hay
should be made available to kids at about 2 weeks of age. Keep clean, fresh
water and salt available at all times, especially when the kids are weaned
from milk at 8 to 12 weeks of age.
As soon as the kid begins eating a little grain and hay, the rumen will begin to
develop, allowing the kid to use roughage materials. The kid will begin
chewing its cud at this time. When the kid is eating hay and grain well, usually
at about 4 to 6 weeks of age, you can discontinue milk feeding. The rumen
will be fully developed at approximately 8 weeks of age.
The kid should have plenty of exercise and as much sunshine as possible.
Provide boxes or barrels for older kids to have something on which to climb
and jump. Separate the buck kids from the does at about 2 to 4 months of age
to avoid premature breeding.
Dehorning
Horn development is a recessive trait of goats and is found in most breeds.
For safety purposes, remove the horns while the animals are young, between
3 to 14 days of age. There are several ways to dehorn goats, including
dehorning pastes or similar caustic compounds, burning irons, or physically
removing the horns.
Castration
Bucks develop musk glands when they reach puberty. These glands emit a
telltale odor that often taints the taste and odor of the meat. Once an animal
reaches puberty, they are more active and are harder to feed to an acceptable
level of eating quality. Male goats not to be used for breeding must be
castrated as soon as possible. Like dehorning, this can be done in several
ways. Consult your veterinarian for best results.
Signs of heat
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SN : Brachiaria brizantha
CN : Palisade Grass
CP : 10%
N : 2.5%
Ca : 0.3%
P : 05%
Uses : Dual Type
Establishment : Seeds/ Stolons
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SN : Setaria sphacelata
CN : Setaria
CP : 8%
N : 3%
Ca : 0.1%
P : 0.1%
Uses : Cut N Carry
Establishment : Rootstock /
Stem
Pennisetum purpureum(Napier)
CP 14% N 2-4% Ca P
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SN: Gliricidia sepium
CN: Madre de Cacao
CP: 28% N: 5%
Ca: 1.4% P: 0.4%
SN : Sesbania
grandiflora
CN: Katuray
CP : 24%
N : 5.5% Ca
: 1.3% P
: 0.2
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SN: Leucaena
leucocephala
CN: Ipil – ipil
CP : 24% N : 4%
Ca : 1.87% P : .27%
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SN: Gliricidia sepium
CN: Madre de Cacao
CP: 28% N: 5%
Ca: 1.4% P: 0.4%
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SN : Cajanus cajan
CN : Kadios
CP : N Ca P
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Samanea saman
(raintree)
CP 21% N 3.5% P 0.2 Ca 1.3%
SN : Brachiaria ruzisiensis
CN : Ruzi
CP : 8%
N : 2.5%
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Answer Key No. 3:
1. Does:
Buck:
Housing 40 sq. ft
Stall partition height 100 sq.ft
Yard 100 sq.ft
Fence Height 6 ft.
House buck at least fifty feet from the doe to prevent them from
becoming overly excited during breeding season.
2. Goat Forages:
a. Napier
b. Setaria
c. Ruzi
d. Raintree
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e. Kadios
f. Madre de Cacao
g. Caliandra
h. Ipil-Ipil
i. Katuray
j. Palisade Grass
3.
1. Allows the buck to mount her
2. Mucus discharge
3. Raise tail
4. Frequent urination
5. Restlessness
6. Loss of appetite
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LO2. Information Sheet No. 1
Trim your finger nails and keep them short and clean.
Clean out your kidding stall and disinfect it with bleach water (one
"glug" per bucket of water.) Bed it with some nice clean straw. We clean
the kidding stall out totally on a weekly basis.
Shave the does udder, belly in front of her udder, tail and around her
"privates". (See photos below) We use the regular electric hair trimmers
used for humans. You can buy a trimmer for less than $20 and it will last
for years of prebirth hair cuts and shaving the kids' heads before you
disbud them.
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Why give a hair cut?
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A week before she is due, start putting
mom up at night in the kidding stall.
We like to put her up with one of her
closest friends and/or family members
who she gets along with well and never
fights with. Goats do not like to be alone,
so giving the doe a friend helps keep
down stress. If she fights with everyone,
let her be by herself; she'll deal with in
ok. If she gets picked on up by
everyone, let her be by herself, she may
actually appreciate being "safe" for
while. Putting the doe up at night before the actual kidding time gives her
time to adjust to her "private stall"; this makes for less stress at kidding
time. A barn monitor is nice at this point so you don't have to do
"midnight checks". For years we used just an audio monitor, but finally
invested in a video monitor and that was money extremely well spent!
Place you hand on the doe's spine, right where it starts to angle down.
Put your fingers on one side of the spine and your thumb on the other
side. Now run you hand slowly down her spine toward her tail, feeling
along the spine and the areas just to the sides of the spine (about 1 inch
along each side). As you run your fingers down the spine, you will feel
the ligaments. The ligaments are located on either side of her spine
about halfway between where her back starts to slope down and her tail.
The ligaments seem to come out of the spine and slant down toward her
pin bones. (See picture) They feel similar to the size of pencils. If you
can't find them, keep trying, going slowly down the spine. You need to
learn to feel for the ligaments because as the birth nears, the ligaments
loosen. At first they will feel hard, like pencils. They will gradually start to
soften and once they're "gone" labor is close at hand.
As you feel for the ligaments you'll also be feeling for the physical
changes in the tail head. As labor drawing near, the area along the spine
will seem to sink and the tailhead seems to rise.
Get used to running your hand down your doe's spine to check the ligaments and
the raising of the tailhead. Once you no longer feel the ligaments and you can
practically touch your fingers and thumb together around her tail head, the doe
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will probably kid sometime within the next 12 hours.
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This does body has noticeably
changed. Her tail head is raised
and there are sunken areas on
Feeling for ligaments either side of the spine near the
tail.
Below are photo examples of the how the doe's body changes as she
gets ready to give birth.
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Back arching (having a
Back straight.
contraction); tailhead raised.
Signs of Labor
As much as I'd like to say to new goat owners, "This is exactly what to
look for." Your doe may show any, all, or none of these signs. ALL
DOES ARE DIFFERENT. There is no guarantee what your particular
doe will do. You just have to learn her particularities as you go by
experience and observation.
The best way to tell if your doe is going into labor is to know your
particular doe and look for anything out of the ordinary.
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She is having a mind contraction.
Note the way she is holding her tail.
It looks like she is stretching her
tailhead up and
her tail is arching toward the ground.
Stretching her back out to help get the babies in the correct position.
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Sometimes it takes a couple days for the babies legs to
straighten out completely and/or work properly (you may
want to give them a Selenium Supplement).
There is usually one afterbirth per kid, but sometimes
there is only one per kidding even if there are two kids. If
you don't find the afterbirth, the mother probably ate it
(gross, but not a problem)
Starting about a week AFTER the kidding, the mother will
begin to "leak" blood and goo for about a week or more.
This is normal.
Kidding Positions
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Normal birthing position - "Diving
Position"
(Most common)
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"Breech Birth"- Butt first
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Problem- Kids are in the correct position
or may also be "tangled", and are trying to
both come at once.
Kidding Questions
Can you feel the kids move when they are still inside the doe?
I have been able to feel babies about two weeks before the doe kids. I
cannot always feel them, but sometimes, with practice, I can. If you place
your hands on the goat's right side "belly", you can sometimes feel the kids
move. BUT, if you feel the left side, what you think might be a kid could be
the rumen (stomach) movement. Do not think if you feel movement on the
left side, it is a kid.
Management of does/ewes.
After Birth
As soon as the kid is born, wipe its nose so that it can breath freely. Dip the
end of the umbilical cord on the kid with ten percent iodine solution to reduce
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the danger of infection. If there is continued bleeding from the cord, pinch the
end of cord until the blood has clotted or tie the cord with a string.
Placenta or Afterbirth
1. Marking
Each goat in the herd should be permanently marked in some manner for
these reasons:
1. To identify ownership;
2. To distinguish each animal of the herd for record-keeping purposes;
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3. To facilitate easy selection of the individual animal from the herd in
case you want to cull, dispose, medicate or segregate.
1.1 Ear tagging: Ear tags are usually of plastic or light metal and are
numbered consecutively. You can purchase ear tags from livestock supply
houses or make them yourself. The tag can be easily read if it is placed in the
middle of the ear, taking care however not to pierce the ear between the
visible cartilage ridges. Use either an ear punch or self -piercing tags,
preferably the ear punch because there would be more room around the tag
after healing. This makes the ear not so sensitive with the tag. To prevent
infection, put tincture of iodine on the wound where the tag has been pierced
through.
Whichever of the above locations, you need to follow these procedures: first,
clean the part of the ear or soft tissue area that has no veins or ridges. Then,
print your tattoo code (be it numbered or letter) by piercing through the area to
be marked with a needle or tattoo machine. After this, rub the tattoo ink into
the pierced holes with your finger.
1.1 Ear notching: Notching the ears can be done with a sharp pair of
scissors or knife. Notches on certain parts of the ears indicate certain
numbers, the sum of the numbers represented by the notches being the
number of the goat.
2. Disbudding
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Goats should not be allowed to grow horns. Horns are not only dangerous to
other goats but also to human beings as well. It is advantageous, therefore,
that you will always disbud your kids when they are about one week old.
However, not all goats have horns. Some are pooled and or naturally
hornless. You can determine whether your newborn kids will grow horns by
feeling the skin on the top of their heads. If the skin moves freely, then no
horns will grow. If the skin is attached, you will also feel the small horn buds
—then your goat will grow horns. Have someone hold the kid firmly, either
on the ground or in their lap. Clip the hair around the horn bud with a pair of
scissors to an area about the size of a five-centavo coin. You will then be able
to see the small, shiny horn bud. Then proceed using the method below.
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Self Check Questionnaire No. 4:
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Answer Key No. 4:
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LO2. Information Sheet No. 2
Health Practices for Goat/Sheep
Health checks:
Be familiar with the common goat problems so you can act quickly if
they appear in your herd. Notice the shape, color, and texture of feces.
Be alert for changes in barn odor. Watch for changes in the way
each anima eats and moves. Milk should be sweet, pure white, free
of odor and flow freely without lumps or stringy masses.
Temperature:
Steps: 1. Lubricate the thermometer and shake it down until it reads 100oF or
less or 35o C.
2. Grasp the tail and slowly insert the thermometer into the rectum
about two inches deep.
Oral Medication:
Terminologies:
Injections:
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Any type of injection, to be successful requires knowledge of the exact
location of muscles, nerves and blood veins as well as complete restraint of
goat.
Disposable ones are cheap and are far easier, safer, and less time-
consuming than trying to sterilize them after each use.
A good health program for sheep and goats involves prevention, rather
than treatment, of disease and parasites. Sheep and goats do not respond
well to treatment.
You certainly want your goats to be healthy, for healthy goats are
profitable and productive. Below are the signs of good health in your goats.
1. Contentment
2. Alertness
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3. Eating with relish
4. Sleek coat’ pliable and elastic skin;
5. Bright eyes and pink eye membrane;
6. Normal temperature /Pulse Rate & respiration Rate
Goat (38.8 – 40.2 oC), pulse rate (70-80 / min.),
and breathing rate (12-15 / min.).
Sheep (38.3 -39.9oC); pulse rate (70-80/min.);
and breathing rate (12-15/min)
7. Normal feces and urine.
New goats coming into the herd should be isolated for at least 30 days
before mixing with the herd to prevent outbreak of the disease that could still
be incubating. You don’t want disease and pest-infested animals in your herd.
Such animal is uneconomical, require a high cost of production and are not
profitable. This means that it is a losing proposition to keep sick and infested
animals.
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Self Check Questionnaire No. 5:
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Answer Key No. 5:
1. Contentment
2. Alertness
3. Eating with relish
4. Sleek coat’ pliable and elastic skin;
5. Bright eyes and pink eye membrane;
6. Normal temperature /Pulse Rate & respiration Rate
Goat (38.8 – 40.2 oC), pulse rate (70-80 / min.),
and breathing rate (12-15 / min.).
Sheep (38.3 -39.9oC); pulse rate (70-80/min.);
and breathing rate (12-15/min)
7. Normal feces and urine.
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Learning Outcome 2 .
Implementing Herd Health Program to Small Ruminant Animals
OPERATION SHEET # 1
Health checks:
Be familiar with the common goat problems so you can act quickly if
they appear in your herd. Notice the shape, color, and texture of feces.
Be alert for changes in barn odor. Watch for changes in the way
each anima eats and moves. Milk should be sweet, pure white, free
of odor and flow freely without lumps or stringy masses.
Temperature:
Steps: 1. Lubricate the thermometer and shake it down until it reads 100oF or
less or 35o C.
2. Grasp the tail and slowly insert the thermometer into the rectum
about two inches deep.
Oral Medication:
Terminologies:
Injections:
Date Date
Code No. Page no.
Developed: Revised:
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Any type of injection, to be successful requires knowledge of the exact
location of muscles, nerves and blood veins as well as complete restraint of
goat.
Disposable ones are cheap and are far easier, safer, and less time-
consuming than trying to sterilize them after each use.
Date Date
Code No. Page no.
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UNIT OF COMPETENCY : RAISE SMALL RUMINANTS
PERFORMANCE TEST
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Implement hard health program.
Instructor Date:
Signature:
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LEARNER’S DIARY
DIARY NOTES
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