Build your own 3d printer filament factory

(Filament Extruder)
by ianmcmill
http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-your-own-3d-printing-filament-factory-
Filame/?ALLSTEPS
Too long, didn't read:
Make your own 3D printer filament !
Cheap and high quality at a decent speed of 150-190 IPM ! (4-5 meters
per minute)
UPDATE: Now with wiring diagram !
Long read:
3D printers are cool and they finally start to drop in price. Kickstarter
campaigns like the one from QB-UP or M3D are popping up and they are
finally "affordable". And with affordable I mean affordable like 200 $ and
not "affordable" like 2.199$ affordable. However, once you are a proud
owner of a 3D printer you will soon realize that your wallet is far from being
let alone. No ! You need plastic filament of course to print those super
awesome coat hooks and wheel chocks. Since the price for these
filaments tend to top the actual material costs, printing before mentioned
life savers is kind of expensive and could become a problem to the
development of the ever growing 3D printer community
BUT FEAR NO MORE !! Some clever gents came along - Hugh Lyman
with his Lyman Extruder may be mentioned here or the guys over at
Filastruder.com - and saved the day ! YAY. And there was much rejoicing !
They have built plastic extruders everyone can build or buy at a decent
price. However if you are a fellow Instructable.com user the first thing that
should come to your mind is "I can build this by myself...and cheaper...".
Building at lower costs is the nature of DIY after all.
And much more fun than putting together a premade kit, of course.
Special greetings go out to Xabbax and his plain simple but super
awesomeLow Cost Filament Extruder !
So how much money do I save when making my own filament ?
Good question ! A lot !
Depending on the pellets you get you can make your filament starting at
1$/kg.
How long does it take to produce 1 kg of filament you may ask ??
Using the build I describe here...roughly 1 hour. (for 1,75mm filament using
ABS/PC pellets).
So, let's say on a Saturday in your next workshop session you start at 10
AM and batten down the hatches at 5 PM you could make 4-5 kg of
filament, saving between 125-150 $ leaving you with lots of filament for
hundreds of thousands of eggcups and phone cases and other useless
needful things.
Oh yeah what about the build cost ?
Depending on shipping and local prices, I would guess around 130-150$.
Next step: List of Materials
Step 1: Material list
Except for the electronics everything listed here can be bought at your
local hardware store.
Materials:

• 1x Wiper Motor (Ebay EU - 15€) / 5€ from the junkyard

• 1x Auger bit(diameter = 16mm ; length = 460mm)
• 1x PID Temperatur Controller - DC 12V version (Ebay)
• 1x SSR-25DA Solid State Relay 3-32V DC / 24-380V AC / 25A
(Ebay)
• 1x K-type thermocouple (Ebay - like this one; does not need to be
that shop :) just an example)
-->!!! Sometimes the PID is bundled with an SSR and an K-Type
Thermocouple !!!<--
• 1x Motor Controller 20A (Ebay)
• 1x Power Supply 12V, 240W+ (Ebay)
• 1x Heating band (200 Watt 25mmx30mm) (Ebay)
• 2x Fans (80mm) 12V
• 1x Fitting 3/4" US Inch UNC --- 1/2" German Inch - 18cm long
• 1x Water tap extension - 3/4" UNC threads --- 1/2" German Inch -
50mm long, 27mm diameter (one core thread and one exterior thread)
• 1x End cap 1/2"
• 1x Faucet-mounted filter - 1/2" diameter
• 3x Steel angle
• 1x Axial ball thrust bearing (Ebay) - Fitting exactly onto the auger
bit's shaft.
• 2x 10mm threaded rod
• 1x Insulation
• PTFE tape
• Heat resistant tape
• 3x Rocker (previously "rocket") switches
• 1x Wooden board 100cm x 10cm x 2cm
• Several screws and nuts
• 2x sockets (1 that fits on the auger bit and 1 that fits on the nuts of
the motor shaft)
• Wires (two colors)

Tools:

• Multitool (Dremel-like)
• Saw
• Hammer
• Drill

Step 2: Base plate

Take the wooden board and cut away two pieces each 15cm in length
(~6"). They will serve as a mount for the motor and for the barrel.

Step 3: The motor mount

Mount the wiper motor to the motor mount and place it somewhere at the
end of the base plate. See the technical drawing for an estimation.
Use the steel angles to attach it to the base plate.
The motor just has a threaded shaft. For the coupling to fit onto the motor I
took a hex-nut with 13mm outer diameter and put it on the shaft. When the
shaft rotates and the coupling is attached, the nut would untwist. To fix this
I drilled a hole in-between the attached nut and the motor shaft and put in
a 2mm steel bolt. This prevents the nut from opening. See the last picture
above.

Step 4: The barrel mount

Drill two holes into the other piece of wood so the flanges can be attached
left and right of the board. Drill another 1/2" hole for the auger bit.
Both mounting boards need their center opening to be aligned to each
other so the auger / coupling / shaft-axis can rotate freely.
Fasten the flanges with two pieces of the 10mm threaded rod. The rods
must be left long enough so they can be screwed to the auger "kickback
protection". 10 cm is good enough. They can be cut to size later on.
This will get clear in the next step.

Step 5: Auger kickback protection

When the auger bit turns and hauls the pellets a lot of pressure builds up.
In the worst case this could damage the worm drive inside the wiper motor.
To counter that problem, we need a kickback protection. This is simply
done by a sturdy steel angle and an axial ball thrust bearing.These ball
bearing withstand alot of force applied to them.
It works like that: The auger pushed back due to its "backward" turning
attitude. Because of its taper the auger's shaft pushes against the axial
ballthrust bearing which itself pushes against the steel angle. The coupling
between the auger and the motor should always have a little clearance. So
that no force is applied to the motors shaft.
Now place the steel angle with the inserted rods at a distance to the barrel
mount so that the auger's shaft sticks out for about 3-4cm (~1.5"-2").
The pictures should explain it as well. Moreover I have made a short video
that should illustrate it as well. The dimensions of the parts might differ
from the ones you have access to. So exact measurement might not help
you very much, but the pictures should give you an idea how it should be
put together.

Step 6: The barrel and auger bit

Barrel:
Smooth out the ends and the seams of the pipe so the auger bit can rotate
freely.
Before cutting an opening into the pipe screw it tight onto the flange and
mark the upper area and remove the barrel again.
Take your multitool and cut out the marked area at the end of the pipe
where the pellets should fall in. Wind some PTFE tape around that end of
the pipe. This should prevent the pipe from turning with the augers
movement. Remember the motor is very powerful and if there is some
friction between the auger and the pellets, the pipe easily turns another 4-5
mm even if it was fastened with a monkey wrench.
The threads on the flange and fittings are not made for perfect 90° angles.
So the fitting/barrel might stand in an oblique angle. To fix this take some
washers and place them under the flang where necessary.
Take a square piece of wood and drill a hole lengthways for the pipe to run
through. Now drill another hole orthogonal to the "pipe channel" so that a
bottle can fit tightly. Now just cut the block in half for easy dis/-assembly.
Auger-bit:
The auger might be too long so you need to cut off its tip with an angle
grinder.
The auger bit should reach up to the heater. See the pictures above.

Step 7: The auger-motor coupling

Take a 5cm (2 inch) piece of a square steel that fits into the ends of the
sockets (about 12mm edge length).
Put the coupling on the auger bit and attach the motor to the motor mount.
The coupling should now fit nicely in-between.
Alternatively you could use a spark plug socket instead of the two sockets.
But therefore the distance between the motor-mount and the auger/barrel-
mount needs adjustment.
I went with the above mentioned method because I did not have spark plug
socket at hand but I will try this with the next build.

Step 8: The nozzle

Nozzle diameter:
Depending on the material you process the diameter of the hole in the
nozzle will vary and finding the right dimension is a process of trial and
error. For ABS/PC blend pellets with a melting point between 240-280°C a
1.5mm hole perfomed well from my experience.
Breaker plate:
Take the faucet-mounted filter and cut it into a 1/2" diameter if needed.
This will act as a breaker plate. What this breaker plates does is mix the
molten plastic and retains dirty (which should not be there of course) and
eventually small bubbles that could occur in the melting process. This
helps smoothing the plastic pushing through the nozzle.
Be sure there are no chippings or strands ! You don't want to ruin your
printers nozzle !
Take a washer, place it inside the end cap and put the DIY breaker plate
on top.
Step 9: Band heater and temperatur probe (K-type
thermocouple)
Drill a 2mm hole near the front of the water tap extender for the
thermocouple to fit in.
Strip the thermocouple wire to length. It should just be as long as needed.
Push the band heater on the tap extender. It should sit around the end of
the extender.
Next take some PTFE tape and wind it around the thread of the tap
extender. This prevents the molten plastic from squeezing through the
thread.
Fix the thermocouple with some heat resistant tape.
Then put on the nozzle from the previous step.
Next, take a 10cm long piece of aluminium tubing with a diameter of
around 1cm and place it in front of the nozzle using some rigid wire. This
gives the filament a nice curl when cooling.
Thanks Xabbax for the idea.
Now wrap the insulation around the heater so that the nozzle is covered as
well.
Step 10: Cooling
The front of the nozzle and the motor needs some cooling.
The filament is still very hot and soft when it exits the nozzle. To prevent it
from stretching too much from the affecting g-forces when falling down,
cooling is very important. The more you cool the better you can control the
diameter of the filament later on.
Although the motor builds up some heat and the fan helps to keep it cool.

Step 11: Electronics

Now that most of the mechanical parts are set and done it is time for
installing the electronics.
But before, take a piece of wood for the front enclosure and arrange the 3
rocket switches, the PID controller and the motor controller's potentiometer
and fix them with some hot glue.
Main power
Connect the power cord via a rocker/t switch to the power supply (Ports L,
N and Ground).
PID temperature controller
Connect the PID temperature controller via rocker switches to the power
supply.
Solid State Relay & Band heater
Connect the 12V ports of Solid State Relay to the PID (Port 6 and 8)
Connect port 1 of the SSR to the 220V (EU) /120V (US) port (Port L) of the
power supply.
Connect port 2 of the SSR to one of the band heater ports.
The other free port of the band heater is connected to the N port of the
power supply.
 What does the SSR do actually ??
The band heater is a 220V part but the PID only runs on 12V. Therefore
the SSR connects the 12V PID with the 220V heater. The PID powers
the SSR on and off if needed. When it is on then 220V are connected to
the band heater and it gets warm. If the relay is off, the band heaters
isn't connected to 220V and ergo is powered down. The idea is to
control a high power device (Heater) with a low power device (PID).
Motor controller
Connect the motor controller via a rocker switch to the power supply. Then
connect the motor to the motor controller. Use the pinout for the 2nd speed
setting of the motor. The pinouts differ from model to model and you first
have to find out which pins are for which speed setting.
The two fans are connected to the same ports as the motor is to the motor
controller.
Wiring diagram
I am not sure if I am allowed to post the wiring diagrams for license
reasons so I will link to the respective websites.

1) Filastruder wiring diagram

2) Filabot Wee wiring diagram (scroll down)
3) Here is a link to the Sestos PID I used.

Step 12: Extrusion settings and setting up the PID

Different materials need different extrusion settings.
For pure ABS a temperatur of 190°C is about right.
PLA requires less heat and ABS/PC blend needs higher temperatures like
260-270°C.
The Sestos PID is able to autotune to the desired temperature.
PID controller setup:
To enable the autotune function press "SET" for 3 seconds.
You will now see "HIAL" on the display. Now use the DOWN button until
you see "Ctrl" and adjust it to "2". This is the number for the autotune
function. Press "SET" again until you see the temperature readout again.
Just after all the EP1-8 options. Set the desired temperature using the up
and down buttons and wait until the display stops flashing (~10-15
minutes).
Activate the motor and let the extruding begin. You have to play around
with the speed of the motor.
From my experience setting the potentiometer to half speed @ 270°C for
ABS/PC performed very well.