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Evaluation of The German Angora Rabbit Fiber Produced in The Northeast Region of India
Evaluation of The German Angora Rabbit Fiber Produced in The Northeast Region of India
To cite this article: Sanchita Biswas Murmu, Sanjoy Debnath & Chewang N. Bhutia (2023)
Evaluation of the German Angora Rabbit Fiber Produced in the Northeast Region of India,
Journal of Natural Fibers, 20:2, 2210323, DOI: 10.1080/15440478.2023.2210323
ABSTRACT KEYWORDS
The physical and mechanical properties of German Angora rabbit fiber obtained Luxury fiber; Blended yarn;
from the Northeast region of India were studied. The fiber fineness, staple low cost; end product;
length, diameter, and medullation of the overall fleece of the rabbit were 0.22 Angora rabbit; natural fiber
± 0.04 tex, 09.10 ± 2.21 cm, 23.5 ± 1.04 µm, and 85.46 ± 1.23%, respectively. The 关键词
cross-sectional shape was found elliptical to oval, and the average tenacity, 豪华纤维; 混合纱线; 成本
breaking elongation, specific work of rupture, and initial modulus were 24.78 低; 最终产品; 安哥拉兔; 天
± 11.48 cN/tex, 28.78 ± 09.06%, 3.46 ± 2.31cN/tex, and 1065.13 ± 826.67 cN/tex, 然纤维
respectively. The whiteness index average ash and moisture content were 61.24
± 2.32, 1.36 ± 0.12, and 10.43 ± 0.57%, respectively. Three blend ratios of Angora
rabbit fiber and viscose fiber (50:50, 25:75, and 0:100) were used to make yarns
having 55 tex, 86 tex, and 97 tex linear density from each blend. Tenacity and
breaking elongation significantly (p = .00) increased with an increase in the
rabbit fiber composition in the blend and was maximum at the 50:50 blend
(7.79 ± 1.92 cN/tex and 7.64 ± 1.70%, respectively). Yarn diameter increased with
the increase in yarn count. With the decrease in the rabbit fiber composition
from 50% to 25% in the yarn, the friction coefficient increased and the abrasion
resistance decreased significantly (p = .00).
摘要
对从印度东北地区获得的德国安哥拉兔纤维的物理力学性能进行了研究.
兔羊毛的纤维细度、纤维长度、直径和髓度分别为0.22 ± 0.04 tex、09.10
± 2.21 cm、23.5 ± 1.04 µm和85.46 ± 1.23%. 横截面形状为椭圆形至椭圆形,
平均韧性、断裂伸长率、断裂比功和初始模量分别为24.78 ± 11.48 cN/
tex、28.78 ± 09.06%、3.46 ± 2.31cN/tex和1065.13 ± 826.67 cN/tex. 白度指
数平均灰分和水分含量分别为61.24 ± 2.32、1.36 ± 0.12和10.43 ± 0.57%. 安
哥拉兔纤维和粘胶纤维的三种共混比(50:50、25:75和0:100)用于由每种
共混物制备具有55特、86特和97特线密度的纱线. 随着共混物中兔纤维成
分的增加, 韧性和断裂伸长率显著增加(p = .00), 并且在50:50共混物时
达到最大值(分别为7.79 ± 1.92 cN/tex和7.64 ± 1.70%). 纱线直径随着纱
线支数的增加而增加. 随着纱线中兔纤维成分从50%减少到25%, 摩擦系数
增加, 耐磨性显著降低(p = .00).
Introduction
Angora fiber is one of the luxury fine keratinous textile materials, produced by the long-haired Angora
rabbit. Angora wool is soft, bright, fluffy, and light-weighted having excellent thermal insulation
properties (Hunter 2020).
CONTACT Sanchita Biswas Murmu Sanchita.biswas@icar.gov.in Mechanical Processing Division, ICAR-National Institute of
Natural Fibre Engineering & Technology, 12, Regent Park, Kolkata 700 040, India
© 2023 The Author(s). Published with license by Taylor & Francis Group, LLC.
This is an Open Access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial License (http://creativecommons.org/
licenses/by-nc/4.0/), which permits unrestricted non-commercial use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is
properly cited. The terms on which this article has been published allow the posting of the Accepted Manuscript in a repository by the author(s) or with
their consent.
2 S. B. MURMU ET AL.
There are difficulties in spinning 100% Angora rabbit fiber due to its low cohesion force and
short length. Researchers blended merino wool (Mishra and Goel 2004); Oglakcioglu et al.
2009); acrylic and wool (Süpüren Mengüç 2016; lyocell and cotton (Onal and Korkmaz 2006);
nylon (Guruprasad and Chattopadhyay 2013) with Angora rabbit fiber to develop yarn and
fabric. In most cases the selection of the fiber to be blended with Angora rabbit fiber is done by
matching the fineness and thermal insulation properties. However, the selection of fiber should
also be based on its ability to bind the short Angora fiber. Without thorough engineering
considerations, the resulting yarn developed recorded a higher coefficient of variation in
strength, thick-thin places, neps, hairiness, and abrasion properties. Better and uniform yarns
are developed when blending of the fibers is done considering their engineering properties
relevant to spinning. Herrmann, Wortmann, and Wortmann (1996) studied the fiber and
medulla diameter of the Angora rabbit fiber as affected by the origin of the rabbits. Rafat
et al. (2007) also analyzed important factors like fiber diameter, comfort factor, spinning
fineness, fiber curvature, medulla content, and mean fiber diameter along the length of
Angora rabbit fiber. However, a comprehensive analysis highlighting dimensional, tensile, and
other properties relevant to spinning that would serve as a guide for selecting compatible fiber
to make blended yarn was not focussed. Hence it was felt necessary to conduct a thorough study
of the dimensional, chemical, and tensile properties of the down fiber and coarse hair so that it
is easy to take decisions scientifically before making blended yarns.
another set of approximately 100 randomly selected fiber containing both coarse hair and fine fiber
was measured and the average fineness was reported.
Diameter
Approximately a hundred fibers containing both fine fiber and coarse hair were randomly selected.
The diameter of the selected fiber at three locations along the fiber length viz:1) root portion; (ii) mid-
portion; (iii) apex portion was measured under the projection microscope (Nikon SMZ18). The
histogram at each of the mentioned locations was presented on the histogram. The average diameter
was estimated based on the readings from all three locations.
A separate bunch of about 30 coarse hairs and fine fiber each was separated from a random
bunch of fibers. The diameter at the mid-portion of the hair shaft was measured by the
procedure mentioned above and the average diameter of coarse hair and fine fiber was
reported.
Tensile properties
Tensile properties for randomly selected hundred fibers containing both fine fiber and coarse
hair were tested on the tensile tester (Instron, 5567) following Indian standards (BIS 235;
1991). The fiber is subjected to a load that increases at a constant rate such that the average
time to break falls within the specified limit of 20 ± 3 s. The gauge length was kept at 2 cm.
The average tenacity, breaking elongation (%), specific work of rupture, and initial modulus
were reported on the histogram.
The test was repeated for 30 coarse hairs and fine fiber each derived randomly from the
fiber and the average values of the tensile properties for coarse hair and fine fiber were also
reported.
Yarn construction
Manually opening and blending of two fibers were done. Three blend ratios were made varying the
proportion of fiber and Viscose fiber in the blend (50:50, 25:75, 0:100). Carding was done twice in a full
circular roller and clearer type flax card. To obtain a uniform sliver three drawing frame of the jute
system was used. In the first drawing single passage was used. Two times the fibers were passed
through the second drawing system and a single passage has been used in the third drawing system. All
the drawings were jute gill drawings. Mackie Apron draft Jute spinning Machine has been used to
produce a very fine yarn. The spinning is made at 3000 rpm spindle speed with 8.31 twists per inch.
From each blend ratio yarn having 55 tex, 86 tex, and 97 tex linear density was produced. A total of
nine yarns were developed and their physical properties were measured.
yarn was tied to a stationary holding bar on the top of the instrument and the other is tied to
a pretension weight of about 30 g. The sheet of parallel yarn was subjected to abrasion over an abrasive
roller under the specified condition of tension and pressure. As the roller traverse back and forth the
computer keep a track of the number of strokes made by the abrasive roller to rupture the yarn sample.
The average number of cycles required abrading the yarn fully and the standard deviation was
reported for each yarn.
Statistical Analysis
All the mean, standard deviation, and coefficient of variation (CV) were estimated using Microsoft
Excel, 2010. The same software was used to also draw the histograms. The effect of the different blend
ratios, yarn count, and their interaction effect on the yarn tensile properties, diameter, yarn density,
coefficient of friction, no. of cycles to abrasion, specific flexural rigidity, and hairiness was done by
two-way analysis of variance (ANOVA) technique. One-way ANOVA was used to study the effect of
each of the two factors (viz. blend ratio and yarn count) on the responses. The SPSS 20 software was
used for all the analyses.
Figure 3. (a) Cross-sectional view of fiber showing: a) dumble shape; (b) oval shape; (c) circular shape; (d) elleptical shape; and (e)
rectangular shaped cells. (b) Cross-sectional view of fiber showing: 1) no medulla; (2) square shape single medulla; (3) elliptical
shaped single medulla; (4) multiple medulla.
Angora rabbit fiber are attributed to the presence of medullated fiber. A reduction in the bending rigidity
and an increased softness are observed in animal fibers having higher ellipticity values (McGregor 2018).
8 S. B. MURMU ET AL.
Figure 3(b) shows that most of the cross-sections had one large medulla, few were without
a medulla and very few cross-sections have two or more medullas. Van den Broeck, Mortier, and
Simoens (2001) stated that the multi-serial ladder medulla is present in the coarse hair and the
uniserial ladder-type medulla is present in the fine fiber. The percentage of medullated fiber was
85.4 ± 1.2%, CV = 1.4%. Percentage medullation is lower than that observed in French Angora fiber
(99.9%), German (90.5%), and Chinese (96.8%).
The shape of the medullary channels was not uniformly circular. Square, triangular, and elliptical
shaped medullary canals were also observed. Hence their dimension is not expressed as the ratio of
medulla diameter to cell diameter. Medullar cell cross-section area relative to the cell cross-sectional
area would provide a better insight. It was observed that 3.98 ± 2.34% of the cell cross-sectional area
was medullated. The medulla is responsible for lower bulk density and higher thermal insulation
properties of the Angora rabbit fiber. However, the presence of the medulla also significantly reduces
the strength, and flexibility of the fibers (Zheng et al. 2011).
Medullation properties are important to determine the dyeing ability of the fiber because higher
medullation causes greater refraction of light at the fiber/medulla interface and the decreased length of
the light path within air-filled medulla cells (Hunter 2020). Onal and Korkmaz (2006)reported 36.7%
as the average medullation by volume for French Angora rabbits.
Fiber diameter
The diameter of a fiber is the distance across its cross-section. The diameter of natural fiber usually varies
over its length, so the diameter distribution at the root, mid-portion, and apex positions of fiber shaft is
presented in Figure 4. In the root portion, about 95% of the fiber had a diameter between 20–30 µm, in
the middle portion of the fiber shaft, about 80% of the fiber is in that range. The remaining 20% was
having a lesser diameter which ranged from 10–15 µm. In the apex region, 95% of fiber was between 10–
20 µm and a small fraction was having a diameter between 0–10 µm. The average diameter was 19.94 ±
5.1 µm, CV = 25.6%. Herrmann, Wortmann, and Wortmann (1996) stated that the quality of fiber varies
between counties and the diameter of fiber of French origin (19.8 µm) was comparable with our results.
But it is higher than the diameter of fiber of German origin (12.4 µm) and Chinese origin (11.8 µm).
Figure 4. Diameter distribution at the root, middle and apex portion of fiber.
JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 9
Figure 5. (a). Frequency distribution of the tenacity of fiber. (b) Frequency distribution of the breaking elongation of fiber. (c)
Frequency distribution of the specific work of rupture of fiber. (d) Frequency distribution of the Initial modulus of fiber.
the fiber to the applied force influences yarn properties like Young’s modulus, bending stiffness,
torsional rigidity, and fabric properties like drape, wrinkle recovery, etc. (Varshney, Kothari, and
Dhamija 2011). The tenacity of about 45% fiber was 20 cN/tex, remaining 45% fiber had tenacity
values between 30–50 cN/tex (Figure 5(a)). The difference in the fiber tenacity can generally be
attributed to factors like the crystallinity, degree of polymerization, the forces holding the adjacent
polymer chains together, and their degree of orientation in the direction of fiber axis. The average
tenacity was 24.7 ± 11.4, CV = 46.31%.
Elmogahzy and Farag (2018) explained that fiber elongation reflects how easily the fiber can be
stretched. It is difficult to stretch fiber with low breaking elongation concerning high breaking
strength values. About 80% of the Angora rabbit fiber had a breaking elongation between 20–40%
(Figure 5(b)).
The toughness of a fiber is reflected by the energy required to break and is known as the work of
rupture. About 90% of the fiber has the specific work of rupture between 2.5–7.5 cN/tex (Figure 5(c)).
The average specific work of rupture was 3.4 ± 2.3, CV = 67%. The value is greater than that of the
cotton fiber (0.5–1.5 cN/tex) and is comparable with wool fibers (2.7 to 3.8 cN/tex) (Elmogahzy and
Farag 2018). The initial modulus or the elastic modulus reflects the stress require to double the length
of the fiber following Hook’s law (Morton and Hearle 1975). About 45% of the fiber has an initial
modulus value of about 1000 cN/tex, approximately 35% has a value of about 2000 cN/tex and the
remaining 20% of fiber had initial modulus values between 2000–4000 cN/tex (Figure 5(d)). The
average initial modulus was 1065.1 ± 826.7, CV = 77.6%.
The average moisture content of fiber was 10.4 ± 0.6%. Many physical properties of fiber are affected by
the amount of water absorbed, e.g. dimensions, tensile strength, elastic recovery, electric resistance, rigidity,
and so on. Figure 6 showed that it takes about five days to regain the moisture from the bone-dry state of
fiber to about 9.1 ± 0. 5 Ash is the inorganic residue remaining after the water and organic matter have been
removed by heating in the presence of oxidizing agents, which provides a measure of the total amount of
minerals. The average ash content was 1.4 ± 0.1. Hunter (2020) stated that the mineral salts, nucleic acid
residues, and carbohydrates content of wool is about one % and the content of mineral salts is partially
nutrition dependent
Table 2. The effect of the change in Angora rabbit fiber composition in the blend and change in yarn count on the tensile properties
of the Angora-Viscose yarn.
Percentage weight of Angora to Viscose in the yarn 55 Tex 86 Tex 97 Tex
Tenacity, cN/tex
50–50 7.8 ± 1.9aA** 5.9 ± 1.4b**A** 6.2 ± 1.3b*A**
25–75 3.3 ± 0.7a**B 4.4 ± 1.1bB 4.5 ± 1.0bB
0–100 4.4 ± 1.2aC* 5.6 ± 1.5b*A* 4.6 ± 1.1aB
Breaking Extension, %
50–50 7.6 ± 1.7aA** 5.3 ± 1.9b**A 7.1 ± 1.5aA**
25–75 2.6 ± 0.7a**B 4.2 ± 1.0Bb* 4.8 ± 0.8bB*
0–100 3.3 ± 0.8aB 5.2 ± 0.9b**A 3.8 ± 1.1aC
Specific Work of rupture, mN/tex
50–50 4.5 ± 2.0a**A** 4.5 ± 2.0a**A** 7.1 ± 1.5aA**
25–75 0.5 ± 0.2a**B 0.5 ± 0.2a**B 4.8 ± 0.8bB*
0–100 0.9 ± 0.3aB 0.9 ± 0.3aB 3.8 ± 1.1aC
Initial modulus, cN/tex
50–50 305.5 ± 66.4aA* 247.8 ± 82.0b*A 228.9 ± 46.2b**A*
25–75 391.0 ± 121.6a**B 202.7 ± 54.9bB*C 200.8 ± 44.3 bA**
0–100 263.4 ± 70.7aA** 236.7 ± 48.4aAC 267.9 ± 70.8aB
The data represents mean ± Standard Deviation (S.D). In the same row different small letters indicated significant difference. The
symbols “*” and “**” following the small letter indicated difference at 0.05% and 0.001% level of significance, respectively. In the
same column different capital letters indicated significant difference. The symbol “*” and “**” following the capital letter indicated
difference at 0.05% and 0.001% level of significance, respectively.
A change in the proportion of Angora rabbit fiber in the blend had a no-significant effect (p = .74) on
the change in the initial modulus value. The yarn stiffness decreases significantly with the increase in yarn
count from 55 tex to 86 tex in the 50:50 and 25:75 blend (Table 3). However, in the same blends when the
yarn count increased to 97 tex the further change in the initial modulus value was non-significant. In
100% viscose yarn the effect of the increase in yarn count was non-significant on the initial modulus
value. Hence it may be inferred that when Angora rabbit fiber was present in the blend, the thinner yarn
was stiffer than the thicker yarn and they offered greater resistance to deformation under small forces and
hence had better shock absorption capabilities than thicker yarn. The interaction effect of the blend ratio
and the yarn count was also significant (p = .000) on the initial modulus value.
Table 3 showed that with a decrease in the yarn count from 97 tex to 86 tex and then to 55 tex the
diameter of the Angora -Viscose blended yarn decreased significantly (p = .00) at each of the three
blend ratios (50:50, 25:75, 0:100). It may be because the number of fiber inside the yarn cross-section
decreased with decreasing the value of yarn count (Zou 2014).
When the blend ratio changed to 25:75 and 0:100, the average flexural rigidity increased from
2160.9 ± 608.3 × 10−4 to 2355.6 ± 569.3 × 10−4 mN.mm2/tex and 2505.9 ± 326.7 × 10−4 mN.mm2/tex,
respectively non-significantly (p = .24). Therefore the yarn from the blend having a higher proportion
of Angora rabbit fiber (50:50) is expected to have lower flexural rigidity values than yarn from the
blend having 100% viscose fiber and 0% Angora rabbit fiber (0:100). The specific flexural rigidity of
viscose fiber was relatively higher (0.4–0.7 mN mm2/tex2) than fine fiber (0.2 mN mm2/tex2) (Morton
and Hearle 1975). The interaction effect of the blend ratio and the yarn count was significant (p
= .000). It indicated that only at higher yarn count it was significantly difficult to bend the yarn when
the proportion of Angora rabbit fiber in the blend decreased.
The decrease in resistance to abrasion with reducing the proportion of Angora rabbit fiber in the yarn
can be attributed to the relatively lower co-efficient of metal-to-fiber friction of Angora rabbit fiber (0.2–
0.3) (Hunter 2020) compared to viscose fiber (0.35–0.40) (Das and Ishtiaque 2007). The average hairiness
of the yarns showed no significant (p = .33) change with the change in Angora rabbit composition in the
yarn. The fiber end of rigid fiber would protrude and become a hair because they offer greater resistance to
bend in the yarn compared to flexible fiber. Since viscose fiber was comparatively more rigid than Angora
fiber. The yarn from 100% viscose also showed higher hairiness value and there was no significant
difference when compared to the yarn containing 25% or 50% Angora rabbit fiber.
12 S. B. MURMU ET AL.
Table 3. The effect of the change in Angora rabbit fiber composition in the blend and change in yarn count on the diameter, density
and surface properties of the Angora-Viscose yarn.
Ratio of Angora to Visccose in the yarn (%) 55 Tex 86 Tex 97 Tex
Diameter, µm
50–50 360.0 ± 34.4a*A 430.0 ± 42.5 bA 466.7 ± 58.8 bA
25–75 320.0 ± 42.2a*A 426.7 ± 50 bA 433.3 ± 87.5 bA
0–100 350.0 ± 74.1aA 450.0 ± 89.2aA 513.3 ± 146.7b*A
Flexural rigidity, mN.mm2/tex × 10–4
50–50 1281.4 ± 335.2a*A 2651.1 ± 809.8 bA* 2550.3 ± 680.1 bA
25–75 2110.1 ± 603.0ab*BC* 1467.1 ± 303.8ab**B 3489.5 ± 801.4cA
0–100 2776.8 ± 214.4aBC** 1615.1 ± 215.0b**B 3125.8 ± 550.8aA
Co-efficient of friction of yarn with metal
50–50 0.5 ± 0.1aA 0.4 ± 0.1ab*A** 0.3 ± 0.1b*A**
25–75 0.4 ± 0.1aA 0.5 ± 0.1b*AB 0.5 ± 0.1b*B
0–100 0.6 ± 0.1aB** 0.5 ± 0.1ab*B 0.5 ± 0.1b*B
Abrasion Resistance, No.of abrasion cycles to rupture the yarn
50–50 305.5 ± 66.4aA* 247.8 ± 82.0b*A 228.9 ± 46.2b**A*
25–75 391.0 ± 121.6a**B 202.7 ± 54.9bB*C 200.8 ± 44.3 bA**
0–100 263.4 ± 70.7aA** 236.7 ± 48.4aAC 267.9 ± 70.8aB
Hairiness, No. of hairs/m
50–50 1312.6 ± 442.0*A 862.55.0 ± 282.3b*A 1368.8 ± 415.1ca*A
25–75 900.1 ± 276.7aA 1012.6 ± 344.6aA 1256.3 ± 354.1aA
0–100 1181.3 ± 405.6aA 993.8 ± 154.4aA 1087.6 ± 246.9aA
The data represents mean ± Standard Deviation (S.D). In the same row different small letters indicated significant difference. The
symbols “*” and “**” following the small letter indicated difference at 0.05% and 0.001% level of significance, respectively. In the
same column different capital letters indicated significant difference. The symbols “*” and “**” following the capital letter indicated
difference at 0.05% and 0.001% level of significance, respectively.
Conclusions
Physical properties like length, diameter, crimp, tensile properties, cross-sectional shape, etc., are
important for finding a blend compatibility point of view. After evaluating the properties viscose fiber
was found best compatible to blend with Angora fiber. Nine different yarns were developed from three
blends of Angora rabbit and viscose fiber having three different linear densities. The 55-tex yarn from
the 50:50 blend showed the highest tenacity (7.8 ± 2.0 cN/tex), breaking elongation (7.64 ± 1.7%), and
co-efficient of friction (0.5 ± 0.1) and the lowest specific flexural rigidity. Costefficient fine yarn can be
made from Angora viscose blend having promising tensile and frictional properties suitable for the
fashion industry.
Highlights
● German Angora rabbit fiber of Indian origin was evaluated
● Based on the properties viscose fiber was blended to develop yarn
● The 55 tex yarn from 50:50 Angora fiber : Viscose blend showed best properties.
● The yarn reported promising tensile and frictional properties
● Cost-efficient fine yarn suitable for fashion industry can be made from Angora viscose blend
Acknowledgements
The author is thankful to the Director, ICAR-NINFET for supporting this research work.
Disclosure statement
No potential conflict of interest was reported by the authors.
JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 13
ORCID
Sanchita Biswas Murmu http://orcid.org/0000-0002-5766-7733
Author’s contribution
SANCHITA BISWAS MURMU: Planning and conducting experiments, Analysis of data, writing research paper.
SANJOY DEBNATH: Planning and execution.
Chewang N. Bhutia: Experiments conducting.
Ethical approval
This work does not involve requirement of ethical approval.
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