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Women's Textiles Forecast

S/S 25: Restorative Realms


Restorative Realms explores how design can create a sense
of balance in an unpredictable world. Women’s textiles
skew towards simple designs, folk traditions, and natural
and regenerative materials

Helen Palmer
07.07.23 - 15 minutes

Caroline Zimbalist
Introduction
Restorative Realms explores how design will react to the end of resource
abundance, with a focus on products and processes that are regenerative rather
than extractive. It evolves from our A/W 24/25 forecast trend, Future Terrains.

WGSN’s three S/S 25 forecast trends expand on the macro concepts in our STEPIC
reports (covering Society, Technology, the Environment, Politics, Industry and
Creativity). Restorative Realms focuses on the Environment and Industry via designs,
products and services that help us reduce our strain on the planet, or help us reclaim
a sense of peace, balance and rest.
Nature is the nucleus of this trend, and it will manifest in the form of biophilic
designs and plant-based materials and ingredients, as well as aesthetics and textures
that have elemental, excavated or murky qualities. Gothic themes will surface through
an interest in the darker side of nature, encompassing overgrown foliage and
underground mycelium networks, and on a resourceful tip, we will see a focus on
foraged elements, and a love of leftovers through the use of waste byproducts and
deadstock.
Science is also a key focus for Restorative Realms, which explores the rise of bio-
synthetic or lab-grown ingredients that leave a lighter trace on the planet, as well as
climate-adaptable designs, products and prepare-wares for more extreme
environments, incorporating cooling, lightweight ingredients and materials. Turmoil on
our planet will also inspire a fascination with other planets, whether it’s through
extraterrestrial and galactic aesthetics, or an interest in cosmic and mystical themes.
Restorative Realms is underpinned by the impulse to preserve and conserve, but it is far
@meliiiiii_______
from a conservative trend; rather, it is about bold moonshot concepts that can re-
nurture people and the planet, putting them on a more nourishing track.
More reading
Restorative Realms aligns with the following macro forecast themes:
STEPIC Drivers: Nature As a Board Member | The Second Space Age
STEPIC Innovations: Bio-Synthetic Streams | Sleep for Sustainability | Future Mining |
The End of Abundance
Big Ideas: Resource Ready | Preservation Mode

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New naturals
The concept: this evolution of the Natural
Grains story chimes with the need to slow
consumption down to preserve the planet's
systems. Undyed colours, natural yarns and a
craft ethos are key.
Fibre and yarn: source regenerative, soil-
Symphony Fabrics
friendly vegetal and local agro-waste fibres like
Agraloop, linen, flax, hemp, banana leaf and
nettle, plus wild silk and GOTS-certified cotton.
Micro-slub, ondé, wrapped and micro-mélange
yarns add character. @hausofstone @hausofstone

Construction and finish: focus on easy, gauzy,


lightweight textures crafted for longevity. Keep
refined yarn-interest checks and stripe bases
natural, adding pastel hints for sun-faded
warmth. Enhance with retracted and wrinkled Stylem Co.

finishes.
We're featuring light layering at Zimbabwean
slow-fashion brand Haus of Stone, designed for
the “conscious wanderer” by bringing natural
fabrics and African craft and culture together.
Also see US label Mara Hoffman's relaxed,
textured, striped over-dress.
Relevant for: shirting, jackets, dresses,
coordinates, bottoms, soft accessories Dash & Miller Mara Hoffman Urban Fabrics Agency

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Lo-fi explorer
The concept: the natural performance theme of
Nature Commuter from last season gains
traction via carbon-positive, plant-based vegetal
materials that work in sync with nature.
Fibre and yarn: source Agraloop, as well as bast
fibres, including linen, hemp, ramie, nettle and
Linopersempre
banana or pineapple leaf fibres.
Construction and finish: develop lo-fi utility
fabrics with a refined vegetal hand-feel, and a
retro eco-tourist spirit. Develop plain, twill and
herringbone weaves in warm vegetal hues, Emblem Weavers Export Graziano and Gutierrez

adding micro-texture, or practical checks and


stripes. Soft hand-feels and natural creases
create a relaxed look. Give jacketing natural
micro-algae, beeswax, hemp or coconut oil
coatings. Springtex

Take inspiration from American hand-made


workwear and apparel brand Graziano and
Gutierrez, made with textile artisans in Chiapas
and Oaxaca, Mexico, and the embroidered linen
by Stockholm brand OAS.
Relevant for: shirting, tops, jackets, separates,
bottoms, soft accessories

@jacobwitzling OAS Company Elyaf Tekstil

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Marine movements
The concept: as we explore the end of
abundance in nature, we spotlight regenerative
marine micro-algae and kelp materials as fast-
growing, abundant, viable bio-resources for
future textiles.
Fibre and yarn: kelp can go into yarn, bio-
Kathryn Larsen x Blanka Byrwa
plastics, leather-like alternative materials and
dye pigments. US-based Keel Labs launched its
seaweed Kelsun yarn, and Israel’s Algaeing has
a biodegradable Algadye 3.0 which is suited to
most fabric bases. Ryan Duffin @meliiiiii_______

Material and finish: French designer Violaine


Buet invents micro-algae materials in Brittany,
and Tanguy Mélinand's Seaweedworks uses
Icelandic seaweed to make imaginative leather-
like pieces. Partner with biotech firms to Violaine Buet

accelerate kelp for apparel. Evolve WGSN's Plant


Patina and Engineered Nature stories with
natural plant colour.
For aesthetics, we are citing NYC-based
Caroline Zimbalist's biodegradable bio-
materials moulded into striking 3D forms.
Relevant for: jackets, outerwear, separates,
accessories
Caroline Zimbalist Violaine Buet Dezeen / Julia Lohmann

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Folklore festival
The concept: this folkloric harvest festival story
connects with the darker sides of nature, and
subtly weaves pagan themes through crafts that
link hyper-local references with tradition.
Fibre and yarn: regenerative, vegetal and agro-
waste fibres are key. Explore Agraloop by
Junior by Adele Zibetti
Circular Systems, as well as linen, flax, ramie,
nettle and hemp fibres. Add woven texture with
slub, micro marls, cordelette, tapes and
chainettes.
Construction and finish: updating our off-grid Simone Rocha Something Corny

Alternativism story, reference straw and wicker


crafts and corn dollies. Work hand-looms in
macramé, leno, hopsack and basket weaves,
and set extra-weft cords or raffia-like tape yarns
against artisanal stripes. Dash + Miller

We've cited rustic straw macramé bags by Irish


designer Simone Rocha, and exquisite couture-
made straw pieces by luxury label Alexander
McQueen.
Relevant for: jackets, separates, outerwear, soft
accessories

The Straw Shop / Alexander McQ


Dash & Miller ueen Woven Studio

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Restorative greenery
The concept: plant-based tweeds update last
season's Pastoral Grunge theme with micro
textures and a drier handle.
Fibre and yarn: vegetal linen, ramie and hemp
add raspy touches, and GRS-certified recycled
silk adds lustre. Kemp, nep, slub, boûclette and
Urban Fabrics Agency
micro-marl yarns add a pleasing hand-feel.
Construction and finish: flower-covered
trellises and meadows inspire light summer
tweeds featuring check, herringbone and
chevron constructions. Add tiny textured yarns Vito Nesta x Misha / Photographer: Andrea Pedretti BMUET (TE)

to silky jacquards, and sprigged floral prints or


embroidery to delicate opaque and sheer shirt
checks.
Here, we've included fresh summer tweed
Vanners
matching sets by Givenchy and Korean label
BMUET(TE).
Relevant for: dresses, shirts, tops, jackets, soft
accessories

Dash & Miller Givenchy Woven Studio

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Artistic garden
The concept: this story presents an ornamental
update of the #GardenFlorals
trend, drawing on Arts and Crafts influences to
evolve our #Horticool theme.
Fibre and yarn: source GOTS, Fairtrade and
GRS-certified cotton, with blends of linen, FSC-
Junior Srl By Adele Zibetti
certified viscose and lyocell, and include GRS-
certified recycled polyester for light blends.
Construction and finish: this commercial
summer story can be dressed up or down, with
highly stylised and formal floral layouts Alice Kettle / @material_threads Momoni

refreshing casual weekend cotton denim, jacket


and shirting qualities. Develop brocade and
damask-inspired jacquards, embroideries and
prints on textured grounds.
Outside Denim
Brand mentions include tapestry blooms at B-
Corp-certified Paris label Sezane and stylised
designs at Italian label Momoni.
Relevant for: beachwear, loungewear, shirts,
dresses, matching sets, denim, soft accessories

Wandering Folk Sezane Sprintex

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Plant pigments
The concept: naturally healing restorative
fibres and safe #NaturalDye evolve casual
fabrics that offer natural performance.
Fibre and yarn: GOTS-certified organic and
Fairtrade cotton, linen, hemp, ramie, RWS-
certified merino and FSC-certified lyocells
Anthyia
Construction and finish: domestic thrift and
eco-kindness go hand in hand in this story.
Embrace backyard gardening, flower-pressing
and plant dye rituals. Focus on botanical hues
and laundered softness for #Utility drill, twill @luciachain_official Hul le Kes

and canvas weights, chambrays and poplins.


Note the overdyed recycled wool blanket jacket
by Hul le Kes (Netherlands) as part of its
recycled and re-dyed ethos. Italy-based
Taku Edge
Argentinian label Lucia Chain's hand-made
range uses local fabric, organic dyes and zero-
waste patterns, and Chinese label Icicle uses
vegetable, fruit and flower waste from local
cafes, farms, and factories to colour its Natural
Way range.
Relevant for: shirting, jackets, outerwear,
bottoms, accessories

@luciachain_official Icicle Cone Denim

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Freshly salvaged
The concept: #Swampcore and Pastoral Grunge
trends evolve with a darker dystopian mood.
Earthy pigments link material origins to land
histories, soil science, waste-cycling and
location.
Fibre and yarn: aim for full biodegradability.
Seojin Textile
Use GOTS and BCI cotton, hemp, linen, organic
wool, FSC-certified lyocell, and if needed, bio-
based biodegradable nylons.
Construction and finish: dirty elemental
textures emulate peat and soil. Choose retracted Dezeen / Jessica Martin @nofaithstudios

weaves, puckered double-cloths and cracked,


creased and abraded surface jacquards. Silty,
stained, oxidised and rust-look mineral prints
and dyes build beautifully aged looks. Develop
leathers with eroded, soiled and stained looks. John England Irish Linen

Look at Yuhan Bai's soil-dyed vintage pieces, as


well as distressed-denim fades at No Faith
Studios (Paris) and weather-beaten, outdoor-
inspired textiles at Swedish label Acne Studios.
Relevant for: tailoring, dresses, shirts, tops,
jackets, bottoms, soft accessories

Dash + Miller Acne Studios Kotai Tannery

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Dark nature
The concept: our Rooted Texture theme gets
darker, entwined with stylised, entangled
natural motifs that draw on gothic and
Victoriana influences.
Fibre and yarn: use FSC-certified viscose,
modal, cupro, Tencel lyocell, EcoVero and
Klauber Brothers Inc
Livaeco for lace, GRS-certified recycled
polyester and nylon, and ZQ or RWS merino
wool for suiting.
Construction and finish: filigree lace and
intricate matte-shine jacquards feature stylised @aidesign.png Acne Studios

florals, ferns and unsettling natural motifs.


Create silky fil-coupé shirting and
deconstructed floral filet mesh weaves. Swampy
tie-dyes, metallic hints and sticky coatings bring
a vampy spirit to occasionwear and tailoring. Dash + Miller

Note the deconstructed, shredded leaf-like


gowns by Stockholm label Acne Studios, and the
lace suit by @qianhanliu for Olivier Theyskens,
which looks like it's dripping with tree sap.
Relevant for: loungewear, intimates,
occasionwear dresses, separates, jackets, soft
accessories

Dash + Miller @qianhanliu Dash + Miller

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Spiritual metallics
The concept: the Metallic Glow story from S/S
24 continues with spiritual, cultural and
decorative designs celebrating warm-patina
metals.
Fibre and yarn: use GOTS-certified ahimsa silk,
FSC-certified Tencel, Livaeco, Naia and cupro
Dash & Miller
for silkies. Also consider cotton, linen, abaca
and hemp shimmer via low-impact, recycled
metallic filaments.
Construction and finish: metallic filaments
enliven natural grounds and sacred-motif The Away Collection / Eggarat Wongcharit Rajo Laurel

jacquards for malleable shimmer. Use oxidised,


embossed prints and pigment finishes on
textured or pleated grounds, building up rich
patinas of golden colour.
Giolica
Take inspiration from the sculptural
champagne pleated abaca-fibre gown by
Filipino designer Rajo Laurel and the ombré
textural silhouettes by Berlin-based Anne
Isabella.
Relevant for: tops, dresses, jackets, separates,
soft accessories

Dash & Miller @anne___isabella Woven Studio

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Tropical retreat
The concept: evolving our Tropadelic Nature
theme, this high-summer resort story moves
from day to dusk, layering shadowy
impressions of real and imagined tropical
nature.
Fibre and yarn: source into silkies; prioritise
Olmetex
FSC-certified viscose, lyocell and GRS-certified
recycled polyester. Add GOTS-certified organic
ahimsa and tussah silks.
Construction and finish: develop opulent,
stylised patterns with blurred edges via digital @dionbal Stine Goya

print or painted warp ikat floral designs. Use


camouflage animal prints for dress weights and
separates. Prioritise slubbed shantungs, tonic
taffeta silkies and crisp papery silks, and apply
embroideries to deadstock bases. Brecotessile

Take note of the blurred shimmer on the floaty


after-dark dresses by Stine Goya.
Relevant for: beachwear, loungewear, shirts,
dresses, matching sets, soft accessories

Bharat Silks @roksandailincic Le Tinte by Stylem Italia

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Disco elemental
The concept: marbled swirls and darkened
hues add intriguing tactility to real and surreal
marble and stone-like materials.
Fibre and yarn: develop FSC-certified viscose,
modal, cupro, Tencel lyocell, EcoVero and
Livaeco. For technical qualities, use GRS-
Shandong Ruyi Technology Group
certified recycled polyester and nylons.
Construction and finish: update jacquards with
decorative faux marbling, using shadowed
darks and metallic accents. Develop sateen and
silky twill shirting and jacketing, technical @designmidjourney Missoni

taffetas and silky performance fabrics with


abstract geological designs. Use space-dye
filaments to create depth and dimension.
We've included darkly glinting pieces by Italian
Bonnie Inouye
brand Missoni, and marbled technical
outerwear by US brand Nicole Miller.
Relevant for: jackets, outerwear, shirting,
matching sets, soft accessories

Monarch Jacquard Nicole Miller Renato Crepaldi

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1 234
Action points

As we reach the end of See nature as a catalyst for Embrace the restorative power Explore virtual reality and space
abundance, prioritise planet- biophilic patterns and textures of nature travel for futuristic material
friendly fibre sourcing concepts

Outdated, resource-intensive supply Look to nature in all its aspects for In the polycrisis era, consumers will Speculate on future terrains to design
chains are becoming vulnerable to texture, from mythical, ancient seek activities that are relaxing, fabrics that are fit for the future, and use
shocks from politics, the energy crisis primordial forests to overgrown back- grounding and re-energising. Provide #DesignForDigital filters that offer
and climate change. Extend fibre garden homesteads around the world. outdoor and indoor fabrics that promote altered takes on reality. Take inspiration
sourcing to support natural ecosystems Develop rustic vegetal tweeds and hand- wellness through natural materials, from ancient geological rock
and replenish crops. Source locally and looms, as well as worn botanical-stain relaxed styles and climate adaption, formations, sacred, burnished and
ethically, working with suppliers with casualwear and leaf-inspired supporting prepare-wear for engraved metallics, and folkloric
proven lower CO2 emissions. Invest now camouflage. Use natural, chemical-free #TheGreatOutdoors mysticism
to develop future-fit, circular and finishes
diversified value chains

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WGSN’s forecasts are created by our global team of experts
Fashion forecasting team Yvonne Kostiak, Head of Active Jane Collins, Senior Strategist, Footwear Contributors
Charlotte Browning, Strategist, Active & Accessories
Helen Palmer, Head of Materials, Knit & EMEA
Textiles Rebecca Saygi, Strategist, Swimwear Ana Correa, Strategist, Footwear &
Raeesa Brey, Researcher, Research Hub
Accessories
Charlotte Casey, Senior Strategist, Jo Lynch, Strategist, Intimates Ryan Parry, Digital Assets, Retail &
Knitwear Lucila Saldana, Strategist, Footwear &
Hannah Watkins, Head of Prints & Buying Specialist
Accessories
Nicole Ajimal, Strategist, Materials Graphics Francisca Perez, Client Services
Urangoo Samba, Head of Colour
Victoria Bulmer, Strategist, Materials Rose Hudson, Strategist, Prints & LATAM
Clare Smith, Strategist, Colour
Sara Maggioni, Head of Womenswear Graphics
Giovanna Bedinelli, Client Services
Susie Draffan, Senior Strategist, Denim
Laura Yiannakou, Acting Head of Fanny Chow, Strategist, Prints &
Leticia Araujo, Consultant, Creative &
Womenswear Graphics Mia Jacobs, Strategist, Youth
Production
Kim Cupido, Senior Strategist, Erin Rechner, Head of Kidswear Jaeyeon Park, Strategist, Youth
Mariana Santiloni, Client Services
Womenswear Allison Goodfellow-Ash, Strategist, Rhoneil Tiburcio, Strategist, Retail
Stefany Lopes, Digital Assets
Sithandiwe Khumalo, Strategist, Kidswear
Womenswear APAC
Hannah Allan, Strategist, Kidswear
Nick Paget, Senior Strategist, Menswear Natacia Lim, Researcher, Research Hub
Anchi Wong, Client Services

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Industry credits and collaborations
Thanks to the following fabric and textiles mills and weave design studios, which collaborated with WGSN
to provide sourced seasonal developments and exclusive samples for the S/S 25 forecasts.

Mills Danmao Kuwamura Sprintex

Acar Textile Decorine Lace & Textiles Limited Linopersempre Seojin Textile

Aditya Birla Group Ding Nancy Mantero 1902 Takisada-Nagoya

Alfred Brown Dutel Creations Maruwa Textile Industries Taku Edge

Anthyia Dynamo Fabrics Mizuda Tianhai Lace

Arasan Tekstil Ecosimple Monark – Menuscat Les Tissages Perrin – Perrin & Fils

Arnia Textile Elyaf Tekstil Naia from Eastman Shinkong Textile

Ecosensor by Asahi Kasei Emblem Weavers Export Olmetex Le Tinte by Stylem Italia

Bharat Silks Giolica Outside Denim Symphony Fabrics

B.O.B. Textile Halley Stevensons Oztek Tekstil Troficolor Denim Makers

British Millerain IdeaTex Co. Recyctex Urban Fabrics

Brecotessile Isiksoy Tekstil Saite Yünsa

Ciment Pleating John England Irish Linen Shandong Ruyi UgurTeks Tekstil

Cocoon Peace Organic Silk Kotai Tannery Springtex Linen Junior by Adele Zibetti

Concordia Textiles Klauber Brothers

Cone Denim

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Dash & Miller Woven Studio Additional designers
Dash & Miller specialises in the design, development Woven Studio produces a seasonal collection of woven Jessie Bloom
and production of woven fabrics for the global fashion and multi-process fabric swatches using carefully
Eden Fisher
and interiors industries, using experimental yarn, sourced yarns and materials. With a broad range of
structure, colour and finishing. Its portfolio of original experience in design development, the studio is fully Molly Haynes
samples offers an inspirational range, complete with equipped to work on projects, ranging from trim and Susie Taylor
technical information for mill design and development. fabric development to meterage that is hand-woven in-
Xuelian Wang
A consultancy service is also offered for specific house, while also offering industrial production
projects, including mixed-media designs, screen-prints solutions with different weaving mills in the UK and
and hand-wovens, and the studio collaborates with a around the world. With extensive knowledge of yarn
high-end UK womenswear mill to produce a seasonal suppliers and textile manufacturers, the studio has the
collection of fabric available by the metre. capacity and expertise to conduct experimental
research using new and unusual materials.
Contact: Juliet Bailey
Email: juliet@dashandmiller.com Contact: Laura Miles
Tel: +44 (0)20 3002 0553 Email: laura@wovenstudiolondon.com
Tel: +44 (0)793 053 4721

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WGSN trend matrix 2025
Mapping the continuity between the themes covered in our STEPIC Drivers, STEPIC Innovations, Big Ideas
and Product Forecasts.

STEPIC STEPIC Drivers STEPIC Innovations Big Ideas A/W 24/25 S/S 25
Diversity for Survival
Forecast Forecast
The Polycrisis Era Flex-Abilities
From Personalised to Individualised

Society
Digital Duality
Decentralised
Layered Realities
Digital Culture Expanded
Adaptive Design Digitopia
Technology Imagination

Bio-Synthetic Streams
Nature As a
Resource-Ready
Environment Board Member
Sleep for Sustainability
Future Terrains Restorative Realms
Beyond Borders
Politics The Great
Migration Urgent Optimism
All the Rage

Industry
Future Mining Inter-Actions Common Connections
The Second Preservation
Space Age Mode
The End of Abundance
Creativity

Conscious Subcultures
Synthetic Strategic
Creativity Imagination
AI Surrealism

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WGSN 2025 forecast schedule
Your guide to when WGSN's 2025 forecast reports will be published.

STEPIC STEPIC Big Future Personas/Product Product


Drivers Innovations Ideas Consumer Opportunities Forecasts

The six global macro- The 12 areas of innovation STEPIC Drivers and STEPIC The key consumer The Future Consumer Product Forecasts present
economic drivers that that will lead transformation Innovations contextualised sentiments and profiles profiles contextualised for the design directions for
will shape 2025, and across industries in 2025 and for the fashion, beauty, that will disrupt the beauty, food and drink, each industry and product
strategies for success their implications for interiors, food and drink, industries in 2025 consumer tech and category, with more than
business, culture and design and consumer tech interiors industries 80 reports throughout the
industries year across WGSN

Business Strategy Business & Product Strategy Product Strategy Business & Consumer Strategy Consumer Strategy Product Strategy
Insight Insight, Fashion, Beauty, Interiors, Fashion, Beauty, Interiors, Insight Beauty, Food & Drink, Fashion, Beauty, Interiors,
Food & Drink, Consumer Tech Food & Drink, Consumer Tech Consumer Tech, Interiors Food & Drink, Consumer Tech

November 2022 December 2022 January 2023 January- February 2023 December 2022 -
September 2023

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