1

Introduction
• Shampoos were defined in earlier as “suitable detergents for the washing of hair,
packaged in a form convenient for use”,
✓Preparation meant for cleansing hair of dust, grime and crust and to impart luster
and gloss to hair.
• Its primary function is cleansing the hair of accumulated sebum, scalp debris and
residues of hair-grooming preparations.
• Women want a shampoo to clean and also to rinse out easily, impart gloss to the hair
and leave it manageable and non-drying.
• At the same time, shampoo surfactants should have a milder effect on the skin and no
sting if the product gets into the eye is the objective.
 2

Ideal properties of good shampoo

✓ Easily removable on rinsing
✓ Effectively remove dust, dirt, soil, sedum and residues of hair setting preparations
✓ Have pleasant fragrance
✓ Nontoxic and nonirritant to skin and eyes
✓ Produce good amount of foam to satisfy psychological need
✓ Provide good finish after washing hair and make it manageable, lustrous, silky and soft
✓ Perform its function in small amount
✓ Able to form foam in hard and soft water
✓ Have pH 5 to 9 since basic environment weaken hair by breaking the disulfide bond in hair
keratin
✓ Good biodegradability and cause no damage to hair
✓ Feels thick and/ or creamy with pearlescent appearance
 3

The following are the points to be looked for evaluation of detergents as shampoo bases:

1. Ease of spreading. Ease with which the shampoo can be distributed over the hair.
2. Lathering Power. An abundance of foam is usually required as a first sensory perception of
efficacy.
3. Efficient soil removal. Removal of grime, excess oil and scalp debris in soft and hard water.
4. Ease of Rinsing. Some shampoos rinse away very quickly, others continue to lather after
what seems endless rinsing.
5. Ease of combing wet and dry hair.
6. Safety: The shampoo detergent must be safe for use on the scalp.
 4

Raw Materials for shampoos:

These ingredients may be classified as:
• Principal surfactants to provide detergency and foam (cleansing or foaming
agents).
• Auxiliary surfactants to improve detergency, foam and hair condition (foam
boosters and stabilizers).
• Additives to complete the formulation and to give social effects (preservatives,
sequestering agents, stabilizers, color,……).
 5
Detergents (surfactants)
✓ They clean hair, remove dirt, soil, and debris form hair and scalp
✓ Sodium lauryl sulfate ,Sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES) (texapon),Sodium lauryl sarcosinate
, Disodium sulfosuccinate and Disodium coco glucoside
Foam boosters (sudsers) and foam stabilizers
✓ They increase the quality, volume, and stbailiy of the foam
✓ Enhance viscosity and leave slight conditioning effect
✓ e.g. cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) (mixture of closely related organic compounds derived
from coconut oil and dimethylaminopropylamine)
Ppreservative.
✓ Added to preserve shampoo from microbial growth
✓ e.g. methyl and propyl parabens
Opacifiers or clarifying agents (pearlizing agents)
✓ these are added to turn shampoo opaque with pearlescent appearance
✓ e.g. PEG stearate, mono or diglyceryl stearate
 6

Hydrotropes
✓ they are solubilizing agents added to solubilize poorly soluble ingredients and hence to avoid any
haziness in shampoo
✓ e.g glycols, sodium benzoate and sodium salicylate
Viscosity modifiers
✓ they are added to enhance the viscosity of the shampoos
✓ their quantity is adjusted to provide the desired consistency of the preparation
✓ e.g Poly vinyl alcohol, methyl hydroxy ethyl cellulose (tylose), methyl cellulose, sodium chloride
or potassium chloride.
Sequestering agents
✓ They are added to prevent the formation of lime soap due to presence of hard water
✓ e.g EDTA
Special additive to hair condition (emollients and conditioners)
✓ they are added to improve texture of the hair and to render them manageable, luster and silky
✓ e.g. glycol esters, lanolin and its derivatives, fatty alcohols.
Special additives to scalp
✓ They are used ot reduce dandruff form hair
✓ e.g zinc pyrithione and selenium disulphide, ketoconazole and coal tar.
 7

Types of Shampoos

 Many shampoos are available in three types: for normal, dry and oily
hair.
 Those for oily often have a higher percentage of surfactant or a blend that
is more active in emulsifying sebum out of hair; those for dry hair usually
contain a higher level of conditioner.
 8

The main types of shampoo on the market are the following:

 Clear liquid shampoos.

 Liquid cream shampoo.
 Solid cream shampoo.
 Oil shampoos.
 Powder shampoos.
 Dry shampoo
Shampoos may be classified according to function, more particularly.
 Conditioning shampoos.
 Anti-dandruff shampoos.
 Baby shampoos.
 Acid-balanced shampoos.
 9

V- Dry Shampoos:

 Dry shampoos are powder compositions which allow the hair to be cleaned simply by sprinkling
absorbent powder onto the greasy hair, leaving it for about 10 minutes and then brushing it off and not
involve the use of water.
 Powder shampoos are not very efficient because it is mechanically difficult to get the particles of the
powder into contact with the grease. It is also difficult to brush the powder out of the hair with the
result that a dry shampoo treatment can leave the hair dirtier than it was before.
 Consequently, these shampoos are useful only for hair that tends to become rapidly weighed down with
sebum, for those who have no time to set and dry wet hair and for use in times of acute water shortage.
 They consist of a mixture of absorbent materials such as starch, borax and silicas.
VI- powder Shampoos:
Contain powder ingredients to which the user add water and mixes until the solution is clear
Powder shampoo used as 3-4 g per shampooing
 10

Baby Shampoos:

 Baby shampoos should have the requirement of blandness towards eye, skin and hair (and
even towards the digestive if they are accidentally ingested).
 Mildness is provided by choosing non-irritating surfactants that produce limited detergency-
most commonly amphoteric imidazoline derivatives and the fatty sulphosuccinate esters and
amides, which are known to be almost irritation-free and to exhibit anti-irritant properties
when associated with laurylsulphate.
 Imidazolines are usually combined with ethoxylated sorbitan to give sting-free compositions.
 11

Safety of Shampoos:

• Shampoos need to be safe to the skin and eyes as well as being generally non-toxic.

• When the shampoos is diluted adequately this is not usually harmful, but in some cases it has, in
fact, been found that contact of any of the undiluted shampoo with the eyeball may involve a very
serious hazard and even lead to scarring and opacity of the cornea of the eye (depending upon the
type of detergent employed, its concentration and the formulation).

• The basic technique of evaluating eye safety of shampoos is that described as Draize test .

• In this method a 0.1 ml of the preparation under test is instilled into the conjunctival sac of an
albino rabbit with the left eye being allowed to serve as a normal control.
 12

Safety of Shampoos:

• After a 4 second period of contact, both the treated and control eyes are flushed with 25-30 cm
of physiological saline to remove the test solution.

• The maximal tolerated concentrations are those that produced no corneal or iris lesions which
lasted 7 days.

• A number of detergents are capable of causing anaesthesia of the eye and this permits
increased pain levels to be tolerated.

• If these detergents also damage the eye then this is extremely dangerous.

• Such materials included polyoxyethylene condensates and fatty acid amine condensates and
formulations containing these compounds must be assessed with extreme care.
 13

Evaluation of Shampoo:

The data obtained should include:

1. The amount used.
2. Details of dilution.
3. The number of application.
4. Time of lather formation.
5. Volume of lather.
 14

HAIR TONIC AND CONDITIONERS

Definition:
 They are preparations intended to give the hair a natural
healthy appearance.
 Many categories of hair tonic are available: medicated
products which deal with specific problems of hair and
scalp, greasy hair, dandruff, loss of hair and so-called
conditioners used primarily by women which aim at
improving, restoring and maintaining the condition of the
hair.
Application
•after shampoo: which may offer the best hope of producing
activity.
 15

Causes of hair loss:

 The causes of hair loss vary widely and are usually complex.

 It may be congenital or acquired.

 It may present an “acute state or be a transient” even it is resulting

from an affective disturbance trauma, an infectious disease, effect of
some drugs, endocrinal disorders, anaemia or ionizing radiation
treatment.

 The tension of modern life with high standards are the reasons that
hair loss appears increasingly among women.
 16

Suggestive methods by which hair growth might be

increased:

1. Increase of anagen growth of hair.

2. Production of new follicle or more multiple follicles.
3. Lengthening of the anagene stage or shortening of telogen stage.
4. Prevention or delay of telogen.
5. Initiation of anagen in follicles in the telogen state.

➢Hair loss is linked with poor irrigation of scalp and a number of

preparations recommended as anti-loss were based on the use of
irritating, rubefacient, exciting substance to provoke an abundant blood
supply with growth-promoting nutrients.
 17

Formulation of Medicated Hair Tonics:

Ingredients:
 Nutrients necessary to the biosynthesis of keratin (vitamins, sulphur-
containing amino acids).
 Regulating factors for the secretion from sebaceous glands.
 Antiseptic to control scalp conditions which may interfere with hair growth.
 Soothing ingredients (to reduce itching).

N B: The main adversary for tonic is the time required before an effect is
noticed. However it may also produce firstly loss of hair and the beneficial
effect is not appear before two months so to encourage persistence in use we
may add ingredients which impart a healthy look, sheen and volume.
 18

Stimulating Agents:
 Most of these compounds are irritating agents which supposedly have
stimulating effects on the growth of hair.
 Compounds mostly used: cantharides tinctures, jaborandi tincture with
pilocarpin, rhubarb extract, comphor, b-naphthol, pilocarpine, quinin salts,
turpentine oil.

Sulpher drevatives:
 It was investigated that sulpher is incorporated within hair, so sulpher and
sulpher containing amino acids are important for hair growth.
 Compounds used as cysteine but it’s unstable comp.,
 Magnesium cysteinate in conjugation with magnesium dehydrocholate and
magnesium salts of unsaturated fatty acids have been used.

Tars:
 Vegetable tars resulting from the carbonization of specific woods have proved to
be of interest in cases of seborrhea, dandruff and dry scalp.
 19

Vitamins:
 The use of vitamins aimed to stimulate cellular synthesis.
 Group B vitamins, vit A, E, extract of wheat germ which contain cocktail
of vitamins, vit F, biotin.
 The use of amniotic liquid and placenta extract also tend to provide
nutrients and stimulating elements that are necessary to keratinization.

Miscellaneous materials:
 Among those recommended as hair growth promoters are egg yolk,
ginseng, snake serum, cholic acids and steroids.
 20

HAIR CONDITIONERS
Objective
 Conditioner which are applied to hair after shampooing are intended to promote the following
1. Smooth (reduce fizz), easy combing in both wet and dry hair
2. A reduction in the static electricity caused by combing and brushing dry hair, resulting in a
flyaway hair (hair detangling)
3. The enhancement of the gloss or luster of hair The addition of body or volume to hair
 They are mainly intended for disturbed or weakened hair resulting from chemical treatments
such as bleaching, permanent waving, too frequent shampooing, weathering where the hair
become dry and tend to look dull and harsh, porous, brittle.
 21

 To achieve such conditions adjusted 2 types of hair conditioning creams are used.
1. The most popular are those used as rinses and applied to the hair after shampooing and
rinsing whilst the hair is still wet.
2. The second group included hair dressings or creams. These are applied to dry hair either
immediately before setting and drying or at any time when extra gloss or light fixing
properties are required.
 22

Common Hair Conditioners

Category Primary ingredient Main advantage Hair grooming benefits

Cationic QACs (cetyl trimethyl ammonium Smooth cuticle, decrease Excellent for restoring
detergent bromide), BTMS (Behentrimonium static electricity damaged and chemically
methosulfate), polyquaternium processed hair
compounds (PQ)
Film Polymers (PVP) Fill defects in hair shaft, Improve appearance of dry
former decrease static electricity hair, improve grooming of
and improve shine coarse and kinky hair

Protein Hydrolyzed protein Penetrate hair shaft to Temporarily mend split ends
minimally increase
strength
Silicones Dimethicone, amodimethicone Place thin coating on hair Decrease friction, and add
shaft, decrease static shine
electricity
 23

Preparation for wet hair:

 Hair conditioning preparations for use on wet hair after shampooing.

 They are prepared either as cream or lotions
 The most successful type are those which contain a QACs as active ingredient.
 The conditioning properties of QACs are caused by the relatively large complex action which is
substantive to protein, it’s absorbed into the hair fiber from a cream or lotion and is retained on rinsing,
this removes the static charge and reduces friction between the individual hair strands.
 A thin layer of quaternary ammonium compounds acts as a lubricant and improves the handling of hair.
 24

Example 1
R/
CTAB 1.3 %
Cetyl alcohol 1.75 %
Polypeptide 0.2 %
Potassium bromide 0.04 %
Perfume Q.S
Preservative Q.S
Water demineralized Q.S

✓ Polypeptide intended to be absorbed on sites where cuticle is damaged or incomplete

(effective on damaged hair)
✓ Potassium bromide is used as thickening agent (reduce solubility of CTAB and improve
th colloidal stability of the emulsion)
 25

Dressing Type Conditioners

• These are creams applied to dry hair before setting.
• Used on dull or brittle hair to apply a thin film of oil in order to give a natural
looking shine or gloss without any appearance of oiliness.
• A small amount of cream is liquified rubbing on the palm of the hand and the hair
brush is applied lightly into the liquified cream and brushed over the hair.
• This method is designed to avoid using an excess of cream which give the hair an
oily or greasy appearance.
• The amount of cream required to give the best results varies, fine hair doesn’t need
as much cream as the coarse hair.
 26

Hair Thickeners:
 They are variant of conditioners designed to give a temporary appearance of thicker
and more full-bodied hair.
 These preparations are usually O/W emulsion type which combines synthetic or
natural polymers used in hair sprays or setting lotions and various ingredients
together with bulking agent as veegum, bentonite and thickening agents as carbapol
resins.
 Cationic polymers are more used as merquats, and gafquates to deposit a substantive
and stiffening film coating which thicken the hair and imparts body.