A chronological

record of the
trek across the
plains

by Andrew Jenson, Assistant LDS Church Historian

Published April 5 to July 24, 1934, in The Salt Lake Tribune
A revision of the account published April 5 to July 24, 1897,
in The Salt Lake Tribune
Day By Day With the
Utah Pioneers 1847
• by Andrew Jenson, Assistant LDS Church Historian •
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 1 • Monday, April 5
Elder Heber C. Kimball moved six teams
(which he had equipped and prepared to form
a part of the pioneer company) out of Winter
Quarters. After traveling about four miles in
a westerly direction, they camped in a conve-
nient place on the prairie, thus forming a kind
of nucleus for others of the pioneer company
to gather to.
This camping place, as nearly as can be
determined, was a short distance east of Little
Papillion Creek and about two and one-half
miles northeast of the present little village of
Irvington, now in Douglas County, Nebraska.
The place was probably in the northeast part
of section 13 of township 16 north of range 12
east, 6th principal meridian.
Editorial Note — One of the greatest march-
es probably ever undertaken since that of the
children out of Israel was the one which was
begun on April 5, 1847, by members of The
Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints
from Winter Quarters, in Ne­braska, and which
ended in the Salt Lake Valley on July 24, 1847.
It was a trek by indomitable men, women and
children that could not be stopped, nor even
slackened, by natural bar­riers, by the lashings
of the elements or by opposing man.
President Brigham Young had es­tablished
Winter Quarters (about six miles north of the
present city of Omaha) in 1846, shortly after
the de­parture of the Mormon battalion for Cal-
ifornia. Sixteen years before — on April 6, 1830
— the church had been organized in Fayette,
Seneca County, New York, with six members.
Led by the church’s founder, Joseph Smith,
some 1,200 converts had trav­eled westward
1,300 miles, following persecution in New
York state, to Jackson County, Missouri, where
a successful colony was established.
In 1833 persecution again arose and many
of the colonists moved out, first across the
Missouri River into Clay County, Missouri, and
then to Kirtland, Ohio, where another stand
was made and a temple built, this edifice
being dedicated March 27, 1836. Emigration
to Missouri, however, continued, with the
1
members of the Church occupying
and moving from one to another of
several counties. Later, a new stand
was made at Nauvoo, Illinois. Here
the church grew and prospered for
a time, with several other flour-
ishing villages being established
in different parts of Hancock and
neighboring counties, as well as
across the river in Iowa.
In Carthage, Joseph Smith and
his brother Hyrum were slain. Or-
dered out of Illinois, the colonists,
during the winter of 1845-46 and
the ensuing year, constructed sever-
al thousand wagons, and in Febru-
ary 1846, 1,000 families began their
journey westward. Settlements
were established at several points
in the territory of Iowa. The ad-
vance companies arrived at Council
Bluffs in June 1846 and it was here
that, upon orders by the United
States government, the Mormon Brigham Young
Battalion, composed of 500 men,
was formed to take part in the war with Mexi- 1847.
co, and marched to the Pacific coast. Today and for 111 consecutively there-
It was after the departure of this battal- after, The Tribune will publish a day-to-day
ion that President Young gathered up his account of the events in the lives of those
scattered companies and established the town intrepid folk — old and young, sick and well. In
called Winter Quarters, where about 700 log 1897, The Tribune printed the chronological
cabins and 150 dugouts (cabins half under- history of this epochal march. Now, with the
ground) were built during the fall and winter. finding of more diaries and the accumulation
This place was later known as Florence. of more detailed accounts, this chronological
When the flower of the Mormon camp had history has been brought to what is believed
enlisted into the service of the United States, by authorities of the Church to be an accurate
a mug in Hancock County formed a military picture.
encampment, provided with artillery, in the Andrew Jenson, assistant historian of the
neighborhood of Nauvoo, and on September Church, has compiled the following day-by-
17 drove the people, helpless and destitute, day account, which should be cut out and
across the river into Iowa. Eventually all the pasted in The Tribune scrapbook by nonmem-
saints were assembled in one place or another bers as well and members of the Church for
in Iowa, and from Winter Quarters on April 5, its rich, not only Mormon history, but it is the
1847, the memorable trek across those count- history of those who founded and built this
less miles of waste began. state of Utah.
For 111 weary days this march continued, Each day’s story will be that of the corre-
ending in the Salt Lake Valley on July 24, sponding day 87 years ago.
2 Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 2 • Tuesday, April 6
The Kimball teams, forming the nucleus
of the pioneer camp, seemingly did not move
that day.
A conference was held at Winter Quarters
during the day, under the presidency of Pres-
ident Brigham Young, who on that occasion
was unanimously sustained by the assembled
saints as president of the twelve apostles,
which practically meant being president of
the Church. On the same occasion Heber C.
Kimball, Orson Hyde, Parley P. Pratt, Orson
Pratt, Willard Richards, John Taylor, Wilford
Woodruff, George A. Smith, Amasa M. Lyman
and Ezra T. Benson were sustained as mem-
bers of the Quorum of the Twelve Apostles.
The readers, haven in mind the forgoing
brief epitome of early Mormon history, will
not find it difficult to imagine what impor-
tance the exiled saints attached to the finding
of new homes, where they, far away from their
form persecutors, might live in peace and
worship God according to the dictates of their
own consciences. Most of the pioneers who
had been selected to constitute the pioneer
party left families at Winter Quarters, which
place might constantly be termed the most
unique camp of any temporary camp or tem-
porary settlement ever established by white
people in the United States.
At the time the pioneers left for the moun-
tains, Winter Quarters consisted of 538 log
houses and 83 sod houses. The inhabitants
numbered nearly 4,000, who, consistent with
the Latter-day Saint method of organization,
were grouped into 22 bishop’s wards presided
over by that many bishops, many of whom lat-
er took a prominent part in the establishment
of settlements in the Rocky Mountain area:
The list follows:
Ward 1, Edward Hunter; ward 2, David Fair-
banks; ward 3, Levi E. Riter; ward 4,
Daniel Spencer; ward 5, Shadrach
Roundy; ward 6, William Faucett;
ward 7, Joseph E. Robinson; ward 8,
Luman H. Calkins; ward 9, Thomas
Lang; ward 10, Daniel Garn; ward
11, Abraham Hoagland; ward 12,
Ephraim Badger; ward 13, Samuel
Rolfe; ward 14, Abraham O. Smoot;
ward 15, Isaac Clark; ward 16, Ben-
jamin Brown; ward 17, Albert Lutz;
ward 18, John Vance; ward 19, John
S. Higbee; ward 20 Joseph B. Noble;
ward 21, Addison Everett; ward 22,
Willard Snow.
Winter Quarters was founded by
the saints in September 1846 and
was the first Anglo-Saxon settle-
ment founded in what is now the
state of Nebraska. It is understood
already that the buildings which
sheltered the exiled saints in
Winter Quarters during the winter
of 1846-1847 and 1847-1848 were Heber Chase Kimball
indeed primitive structures. Most
chimneys were made of sod cut
with spades in the form of bricks.
Clay was used in making the
hearths and fireplaces; the roofs were of rough time during the winter of 1846-1847 of those
timber covered with mud; the floors were split who became the first settlers of Salt Lake
and hewed puncheon, and the doors were Valley and Utah.
of similar material. Some of the huts were cov- It is of this journey from Winter Quarters to
ered with shingles and some with oak shakes Salt Lake Valley that the daily resume which
fastened on with weight poles. A log meeting hereafter follows will be the record, and it is
house was built, about 24x40 feet, and during suggested that the reader follow the record
the long winter many a dance was had on its as it appears from day to day of this famous
hewn floors. A grist mill, run by water power, journey of the Utah pioneers which, so far is
and several horse mills and hand mills had know, has no equal in modern history when
been erected. the circumstances connected with it are taken
Such was Winter Quarters in 1847 — the into consideration.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 3 • Wednesday, April 7
In forenoon Elder Wilford Woodruff and
others, who had been chosen as pioneers,
left Winter Quarters with eight wagons for
the west. They traveled about three miles to
the old campground (near Culter’s Park) and
these continued the journey on to Ponca Road
about four miles farther and camped fo the
night about seven miles from Winter Quar-
ters, where they had excellent shelter for their
horses in a valley near a small stream of water
(a west branch of the Little Papillion). Soon
after the Woodruff company had camped,
Orson Pratt and his company arrived on the
same campground, and very soon after that
President Brigham Young and his company
arrived. The three companies, numbering
together about 25 wagons, camped together.
The night was very windy.
Thomas Bullock and others left Winter
Quarters with Willard Richards’ teams about
5 p.m., traveled by the new and old burying
grounds and camped for the night on the prai-
rie without wood or water. A keen north wind
3
was blowing in their camps during
the night.
Good, sound judgment had been
exercised on the part of President
Brigham Young and the other
church leaders in their selection
of men to form the pioneer band.
Builders, mechanics, masons, and
others were interviewed by the dif-
ferent ones in charge of the expedi-
tion. They were selected with a view
of making roads, building bridges,
or erecting temporary quarters and
otherwise preparing for a genu-
ine summer of mountaineering.
Prominent among those who were
chosen by President Young to lead
the people through the wilderness
was Wilford Woodruff, then in his
forty-first year. His name appears
as the captain of the first ten, the
pioneer band being organized in
companies of ten.
Wilford Woodruff
(in his 91st year)
4 Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 4 • Thursday, April 8
Four squirrels were killed in the pioneer
camp. As this was the first game killed, Elder
Wilford Woodruff moved that they be given to
the priest, so they were presented to President
Brigham Young.
At 9:30 a.m. President Young, in company
with Father Isaac Morley, John Young, and
George Grant, left the camp in the president’s
carriage to go to the olde campground and
pick out a farm site. With them were Luke S.
Johnson and Albert P. Rockwood, who were
returning to Winter Quarters.
About 10 a.m. Thomas Bullock and those
traveling with him resumed the journey at
sunrise and arrived at the pioneer camp at
9:50 a.m., where they found Apostles Orson
Pratt and Wilford Woodruff and also three
carriages and 28 wagons. Several more wag-
ons joined the company during the day.
About 5 p.m. President Young returned
to the pioneer camp from his farm, Amasa
M. Lyman having met him during the day
and informed him of the arrival at Winter
Quarters of Parley P. Pratt from England,
and also that John Taylor was on his way up
the Missouri River with about $500 worth of
astronomical and other instruments needed
for the pioneers on their journey. On receiving
this news it was decided in council that the
main company should move on and cross the
Elkhorn River, but that the Council of Twelve
should return to Winter Quarters to meet
Elder John Taylor the following Tuesday to re-
ceive from him the instruments from England.
It was also suggested that
Elder Taylor should remain at
Winter Quarters and follow
the pioneers westward in due
time. Orson Pratt soon left
the pioneer camp for Winter
Quarters, and half an hour
later he was followed by Presi-
dent Young, Amasa M. Lyman,
John Young, Isaac Morley, and
several others. At the same
time John Brown, William
Crosby and company, from
Mississippi, passed over the
hill near the pioneer camp in
seven wagons, bound for their
proposed place of encamp-
ment near the Elkhorn.
Wilford Woodruff, with
several others, spent the day
hunting, but caught nothing,
although they say seven or Parley P. Pratt
eight deer, some geese, ducks,
etc. that Parley P. Pratt had just arrived in Winter
Erastus Snow and James Craig joined the Quarters from England, and that Orson Hyde
pioneer camp in the afternoon. During the and John Taylor were soon expelled. Howard
day Howard Egan and others of the pioneer Egan and others of the company then went
company left Winter Quarters for the west back to Winter Quarter in a carriage to spend
and traveled as far as the haystacks (near the night. Heber C. Kimball and wife, Bishop
Cutler’s Park, about three miles from Winter Whitney and Horace K. Whitney also returned
Quarters), where others of the party had to Winter Quarters that evening. The main
already gathered. Soon after reaching that pioneer camp was several miles farther west
point, Orrin Porter Rockwell came up on than the camp by the haystacks (on the west
horseback and informed those in the camp branch of the Little Papillion).
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847 5

Day 5 • Friday, April 9

The weather was pleasant in the pioneer camped at 7:30 p.m. in the
camp, a fresh breeze blowing from the west. open prairie, or in a valley
The brethren engaged in a little dancing to where there was water and
occupy the time. Early in the forenoon Elder also a sprinkling of grass,
Wilford Woodruff left the camp on horseback but no wood. When they
for Winter Quarters to visit his family and had traveled eight or ten
see Elder Parley P. Pratt, but just before he miles from their former
reached his destination he met the Twelve encampment, President
returning, so, although within half a mile of Young and Elders Kimball
his home (in Winter Quarters) he turned back and Richards went to work
with them to the pioneer camp. During the cutting grass for their
day, others of the company went back to Win- cattle with knives and
ter Quarters for a few hours before making the afterward inspected teams
final start for the mountains. to ascertain if all was right.
At 1:50 p.m. George A. Smith, Luke S. That night there were 64
Johnson, and others arrived at the pioneer wagons and carriages at
camp from Winter Quarters, bringing the the camp.
intelligence that President Young and others Howard Egan and
of the Twelve were on the road and would others who had spent the
soon join the pioneer company. On hearing previous night at Winter
this, orders were given by Elder Orson Pratt Quarters returned to the
to hitch up the teams and be ready to start. haystacks, where they had
This infused cheerfulness into every man and left their wagons, and then
all went to work immediately with alacrity. continued their westward
Soon afterward, President Young and Elders journey, accompanied
Kimball and Richards arrived, and sat soon by William Kimball, who
as the teams were ready they began rolling up intended to accompany the
the hill, and at 3 p.m. most of them had left pioneers as far as the Elk-
the encampment on the west bank of the Little horn. After traveling four
Papillion, which had been occupied by some miles, the Howard Egan
of the company since the 7th. After starting, company came up with the
the pioneers traveled over a broken country main camp of pioneers,
and crossed one bad, miry place, but only two but without stopping
or three teams required doubling. With the there, they went on three
assistance of about 30 of the brethren towing miles farther and encamp-
them through the mire, they got over without ed for the night, having Old Ferry Across the Missouri
much difficulty. After continuing the journey traveled 13 miles during
toward the Elkhorn River, the pioneers en- the day (or seven miles from the haystacks).
6 Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847

Day 6 • Saturday, April 10

There was a skim of ice on the water
in the pioneer camp in the morning.
The brethren cut hay for their cattle,
the grass being in fairly good condition.
Water was plentiful. The men having
attended to their caste, at 7:30 a.m.
the teams began to roll up the hill. The
morning was delightful, with a slight
northeasterly breeze blowing. After trav-
eling for some distance on the divided of
a rolling prairie, the pioneers crossed Big
Papillion Creek, where a few scattering
trees afforded fuel for that portion of the
company which was under the necessity
of stopping to cook, as there had been
no file with which to do cooking before
leaving the campground in the morning.
The balance of the company (includ-
ing Orson Pratt, Wilford Woodruff,
Erastus Snow, etc.) took a southwest
course from Papillion Creek and struck
the waters of the Elkhorn River about
noon. They continued the journey down
said river about eight miles to the “old
crossing,” making the day’s journey Left to right, Ellen Sanders Kimball, born in Ten, Thelemarken, Norway in 1824
18 miles. Several of the Twelve, and — died Nov. 22, 1871, near Salt Lake City; Harriet Page Wheeler Young, Sept. 7,
as many others as time would permit 1803, Hillsborough, New Hampshire — Dec. 22, 1871, Salt Lake City; Clara Decker
(Wilford Woodruff and Erastus Snow
Young, July 22, Freedom, New York — Jan. 5, 1889, Salt Lake City.
included) crossed the Elkhorn with their
teams in the evening on a raft prepared
by a few of the pioneer company who
had been sent a few days previously for that of Waterloo, on the Union Pacific Railroad is the wagons across the river. But President
purpose. Elder Woodruff’s teams crossed the now located, or some 12 miles in a direct line Young, with the balance of the rear company,
Elkhorn at 6:30 p.m. above the mouth of the Elkhorn River. encamped for the night four miles farther up
In consequence of Indians prowling about, Those of the pioneer company who had the Elkhorn.
a guard of eight men was detailed for night stopped to cook on the Papillion continued Howard Egan and those journeying with
duty. The brethren found the cottonwood the journey and, following the main company, him traveled during the day 15 miles and
trees in full bloom and the slippery elm trees crossed a marshy creek, where the brethren encamped for the night on the prairie, six mile
and willows in leaf. According to Orson Pratt’s had to help the teams across the miry places. from the Elkhorn and near a ravine with sup-
calculations, this encampment of pioneers Five of the advance teams arrived at the main plied the company with water for the night.
was at 41 degrees 16 seconds 30 minutes camp on the Elkhorn about 6 o’clock and there
north latitude, not far from where the town found the brethren busily engaged rafting
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 7 • Sunday, April 11
The day was fine and warm. At the pioneer
encampment on the Elkhorn, the brethren
were busily engaged in rafting their wagons
across the river, which at this point was about
12 rods wide and four feet deep. They swam
their horses across. All the teams belonging
to the advance company had crossed on the
raft before 10 a.m. About that time President
Young, Elder Heber C. Kimball, and Bishop
New K. Whitney drove up, and immediately
afterwards some of the wagons of the second
part of the pioneer camp were seen approach-
ing.
Then the rafting was recommenced and
continued until 20 minute to 4 o’clock when
the seventy-second wagon was rafted across
the stream, thus making 69 pioneer wagons,
and three return wagons, with 136 pioneers,
two women and two children; also three men
who were expected to return to Winter Quar-
ters with the three wagons mentioned. The
rafting was done with the help of cattle, which
pulled the raft across with ropes on either
side of the river. Thomas Bullock took down
the numbers of the wagons as they passed.
A temporary encampment was formed on
the west side of the Elkhorn River, where the
broad bottoms extended westward to the
Platte River.
After the last wagon had crossed, the
pioneers immediately started to the place
7
selected for a rendezvous, close to
a timbered part of the plain, on the
west bank of the Elkhorn, or about
two miles downstream from where
the rafting had taken place. There
were now eight of the apostles
in the camp, namely: Brigham
Young, Heber C. Kimball, Willard
Richards, Orson Pratt, Wilford
Woodruff, George A. Smith, Amasa
M. Lyman, and Ezra T. Benson.
As President Young, the mem-
bers of the Quorum and some oth-
ers, expected to return to Winter
Quarters the following day to meet
Elder John Taylor on his return
from his mission to England, at
dark, President Young called for
a vote from the balance of the
pioneer company as to whether
on the morrow they would go 14
miles on their journey or remain
where they were then located; the
vote was in favor of going ahead.
Elder Kimball instructed the pio-
George A. Smith
neers to keep the Sabbath day holy. June 26, 1817, Potsdam, New York
Howard Egan and those traveling — Sept. 1, 1875, Salt Lake City
with him started from the previous
night’s encampment early in the
morning and arrived at the Elkhorn about 2
p.m., where they joined the main camp.
8 Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847

Day 8 • Monday, April 12

The night guard pin the pio-
neer camp called the brethren
by daybreak, when the bustle
of the camp life began. The
pioneers prepared their teams
for continued the westward
journey and commenced rolling
out from the Elkhorn encamp-
ment, while the Twelve and
several others started a return
journey to Winter Quarters.
They recrossed the Elkhorn
River early in the morning and
on their way stopped at the old
camping ground an hour or so
to feed their horses. Thomas
Bullock reports that he and
Willard Richards arrived at
Winter Quarters at 6 p.m. Wil-
ford Woodruff and five others
followed an Indian trail and
thereby shortened the distance
between the Elkhorn 14 miles, Brigham Young and his four brothers: Lorenzo D. (Oct. 19, 1807, Hopkinton,
for while the wagons traveled a Massachuetts — Nov. 21, 1895, Salt Lake City); Brigham; Phineas H. (Feb. 16, 1799,
distance of 24 miles in a round- Hopkinton — Oct. 10, 1879, Salt Lake City); Joseph (April 7, 1797, Hopkinton — July 16,
about way, the Woodruff party 1881, Salt Lake City); John (May 22, Hopkinton — April 27, 1870, Salt Lake City).
only trailed about 20 miles. A
council meeting was held at
Winter Quarters in the evening,
at which Thomas Bullock was called to go with on the Platte and there form an encampment, River, rises in the Rocky Mountains and is
the pioneers to keep the camp history and engage in blacksmithing and do other neces- formed by the junction of two streams called
return with the Twelve in the fall. sary work until the Twelve should return from the north and the south forks of the Platte.
Those of the pioneers who did not return to Winter Quarters. The North Platte is formed by the union of
Winter Quarters journeyed 14 mile from their In the evening, a meeting was held in the several streams in the so-called North Park of
Elkhorn encampment in a westerly direction pioneer camp, at which Stephen Markham Colorado, and the South Platte takes its rise
to the Platte River, where they encamped explained that it was the wish of the Twelve in the South Park. They flow east and unite in
near a cottonwood grove, located about three that some of the brethren familiar with the Lincoln County, Nebraska, about 400 miles
miles southeast of the present city of Fremont, country should go ahead and choose the best from their source, while the united stream,
Dodge County, Nebraska, near the present route for travel. James Chase, Return Jackson also flowing mostly east, crosses Nebraska
boundary line between Douglas and Dodge Redden, and two others were chosen to start and enters the Missouri River on the border
Counties. out on the morrow as scouts or guides. Fair of Iowa, 15 miles below Omaha, after a course
At this place there was also a fine sand weather prevailed. of 1,600 miles. The principal affluents are the
bank on the Platte River upon which the As the Platte River figures so prominently Elkhorn and the Loup Fork. The river is from
brethren could take their animals to water. in the history of the pioneers, the following one to three miles broad, but is so shallow
The pioneers had been instructed by the information may not be out of place: that it is not navigable.
Twelve to travel to a certain point of timber The Platte River, a tributary of the Missouri
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 9 • Tuesday, April 13
The weather was warm and pleasant in the
pioneer camp on the Platte, the wind blowing
from the west. The blacksmiths put up their
forges, three in number, in charge of Brothers
James Davenport, Burr Frost, and Thomas
Tanner, and began setting tires and shoeing
horses. The brethren who had been sent to
hunt out the best road returned in the evening
and gave an unfavorable report, as there was
a low, flat bottom ahead that could not be
crossed in wet weather. Stephen Markham
called the brethren together in the evening,
gave some general instructions and placed the
guard.
Those of the Twelve who were to be
pioneers were very busy at Winter Quarters
preparing extra teams to take to the pioneer
company. These teams were ready to start at
about 5 o’clock. About this time Thomas Bull-
ock (his wife and children sick) left Winter
Quarters with Willard Richards’ extra teams
and traveled by way of the mill, through the
wood, and encamped after dark on the prairie
9
at the crossroads, in company with
George Grant.
Elder John Taylor arrived at Win-
ter Quarters about sunset on his
return from England. He brought
with him the following instruments
to be used by the pioneers on their
westward journey: Two sextants,
two barometers, two artificial hori-
zons, one circle of reflection, and
one telescope. All these things were
exhibited to the leading brethren
who assembled for council in the
evening, and the articles were then
boxed up so that the pioneers might
carry them in safety.
The news Elder Taylor brought,
together with money and astro-
nomical instruments, were of great
importance to the pioneers, and the
fact that he arrived in time to deliv-
er his messages and the indispens-
able outfit was hailed with great joy.
William Clayton
July 17, 1814, England —
Dec. 4, 1879, Salt Lake City
10
Day 10 • Wednesday, April 14
At the pioneer camp on the Platte it rained
in the morning, but the weather cleared off
about 10 a.m. John S. Higbee, Return Jackson
Redden, and four or five others went up
the Platte River with the seine to fish. They
returned in the evening with about two dozen
fish.
At 11 a.m. President Young and Dr. Willard
Richards called on William Clayton at Winter
Quarters and instructed him to be ready
to start with the pioneers in half an hour.
Brother Clayton obeyed and at 2 o’clock in
the afternoon he left his family and started
westward in Heber C. Kimball’s carriage,
together with Heber C. Kimball, William W.
Kimball, and Ellen Sanders Kimball. Bishop
Newel K. Whitney and Amasa M. Lyman were
with them, but riding in another wagon. This
company traveled during the day 19 miles and
camped on the prairie.
Thomas Bullock and those traveling with
him arose at daylight and fed their cattle, but
while Elder Bullock was hitching up his team
four Omaha Indians rushed down upon the
company, having their standards covered
with turkey feathers, hallooing and yelling,
which so frightened Brother Bullock’s cattle
that they broke away from the wagon and ran
madly two or three miles in the direction of
Winter Quarters. Elder Bullock, going after
them, succeeded in heading and turning
them back after the loss of an hour’s time,
during which one of the Indians drew his bow
and arrow, threatening to shoot one of his
oxen, while another Indian showed his gun.
The brethren had to allay the excitement by
giving the Indians bread. They, however, were
not satisfied with this, but demanded more,
and after this request had been granted one
Indian attempted to take the front of Brother
Bullocks’ wagon to make him a headdress.
But, as Brother Bullock objected to this, went
away quite angry.
The brethren now hitched up and started
on their journey. About an hour afterward a
pleasant rain fell. Continuing the journey, the
brethren stopped to feed at the old camp-
ground on the Little Papillion Creek for about
an hour, after which they journeyed on and
crossed the Big Papillion Creek, the bottom of
which was covered with flowers. After another
halt they continued their route to the second
creek, where they stopped with the intention
of camping for the night.
Directly afterward, Albert P. Rockwood and
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Lorenzo D. Young passed in the
boat wagon, so the Bullock com-
pany again hitched up their teams
and followed these brethren to
the timber, where others of the
company were encamped.
President Young and Elders
Heber C. Kimball, and Ezra T.
Benson, who had left Winter
Quarters early in the afternoon,
passed the Bullock company at 6
p.m., and after they had halted,
made signal lights to guide those
behind to their camp, where the
last wagons arrived about 8:30
p.m. The brethren drove their
teams down a hollow and made a
fire in the dry grass.
Orson Pratt, Wilford Wood-
ruff, Amaza M. Lyman, George A.
Smith, Erastus Snow, and a few
others left Winter Quarters and
took the Indian trail across the
prairie to the Elkhorn, which they
crossed on a raft, camping for the
night two miles below the ferry.
Thus this day witnessed the
final departure from Winter
Quarters of the last contingent
of the famous band of Utah pio-
neers. The last goodbye were said
and all arrangements completed Ezra Taft Benson
for their departure for this Great Feb. 27, 1811, Mendon, Massachusetts
Basin. It was a day of excitement — Died in 1869, Ogden, Utah
and apprehension, of fear and
sorrow, both for those who were
leaving, or had left, and for those who were to people who were left returned to their labors,
remain behind, for there were to be separa- their hearts were heavy and their eyes were
tions, some of relatives, some of friends, who, moist.
through mutual tribulation and suffering, had Upon those who were to go, the April sun
become as near to each other as brothers. shone down brightly, the air was soft about
Now the hour had come for the selected them and the very act of moving gave them
band to begin their journey over an unknown an exhilaration and strength to perform their
trail toward an utterly unknown country. duties.
Vague report told of hostile savages. In The last wagons left Winter Quarters at 2
thought the dangers were exaggerated. The p.m. and in the party were Brigham Young,
difficulties to be overcome seemed well nigh Heber C. Kimball, Ezra T. Benson, George
insurmountable. The mountain crests were A. Smith, William Clayton, Bishop Newel K.
hidden in the clouds, the waters were bitter Whitney, Amaza M. Lyman, Dr. Willard Rich-
and it is not strange that the undertaking ards, Sister Ellen Kimball, and other leading
seemed to all a most serious one. Goodbyes spirits of the enterprise. The two other pio-
were spoken amid tremblings and fears. neer women and two children were already in
It was harder on those who remained the pioneer camp.
than on those who were to go, and as the last
wagon moved out of Winter Quarters, and the
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847 11

Day 11 • Thursday, April 15

The morning was cold, but pleasant, in the
pioneer camp on the Platte River. Some of the
brethren went across the flat to the Elkhorn to
try their luck at fishing.
President Brigham Young, Elder Ezra T.
Benson, and others resumed their west-
ward journey early in the morning and soon
reached the Elkhorn, which they crossed on
the ferry. Elders Heber C. Kimball, Newel K.
Whitney, William Clayton, and several others
followed closely after, leaving the camp at
7:30 a.m. They reached the Elkhorn at 11:30
and half an hour later they, too, had made a
successful crossing. On the west side of the
river they overtook President Young and his
company and Elders Orson Pratt, Wilford
Woodruff, George A. Smith, Amasa M. Lyman,
and Erastus Snow, who had crossed the river
the previous evening.
The whole company then traveled together
over the flat about 12 miles to the pioneer
encampment, where they arrived about 3 p.m.
and found the brethren busy with blacksmith-
ing work and getting ready to continue the
westward journey.
Thomas Bullock and the brethren with
the extra teams, after crossing the river, also
joined the balance of the company on the west
side of the Elkhorn. While traveling over the
Camp and Ferry at the Elkhorn
flat toward the Platte, Brother Bullock’s wagon (After an original drawing by Frederick Piercy, 1853)
and that of George A. Smith suck in the mud,
but by double teams and otherwise assisting thing behind him. He gave the pioneers news addressed them in a short speech, instruction
each other, they finally got through and ar- from the branches of the Church in the east- them to take care of their teams and cease all
rived at the pioneer camp at 4:40 o’clock. ern states and spoke of many friends in that music, dancing and light mindedness; he also
President Young and those with him had part of the country, among whom was Colonel exhorted them to prayer and faithfulness and
traveled this day about 20 miles. The distance Thomas L. Kane, who had remembered the stated that the traders and missionaries were
from Winter Quarters to the camp on the Quorum of the Twelve and some others by for- stirring up the Indians to plunder the “Mor-
Platte was 47 miles, following the Indian trail warding a variety of little presents for them. mons” of their horses and goods. But if the
from Winter Quarters to the Elkhorn River. Brother Little spent the night in the pioneer brethren would be faithful and obey counsel,
In the evening Elder Jesse C. Little arrived camp. the president said, the Lord would bless them
in the pioneer camp from the eastern states. At 7:40 p.m. President Young mounted and they would pass through the country in
When he arrived at Winter Quarters and the front of his wagon and called aloud, safety.
found that the twelve had left for the pioneer “Attention, the Camp of Israel!” The brethren
camp, he followed posthaste, leaving every- assembled at his wagon and the president
12
Day 12 • Friday, April 16
About 8 a.m. the brethren in the pioneer
camp were all called together at the rear of
President Brigham Young’s wagon and were
addressed by Elders George A. Smith, Heber
C. Kimball, Newel K. Whitney, and President
Young. The brethren were formed in a circle
around the president’s wagon and counted off.
There were 143 men and boys on the pioneer
list, besides three women and two children,
making a total of 148.
Stephen Markham and Albert P. Rockwood
were appointed captains of hundreds; Addison
Everett, Tarleton Lewis, James Page, John Pack,
and Shadrach Roundy captains of fifties; and the
following named brethren (14 in number) were
appointed captains of tens: Wilford Woodruff,
Ezra T. Benson, Phineas H. Young, Luke S.
Johnson, Stephen H. Godard, Charles Shumway,
James Case, Seth Taft, Howard Egan, Appleton
M. Harmon, John S. Higbee, Norton Jacobs, John
Brown, and Joseph Matthews.
Stephen Markham was appointed captain of
the guard and was instructed to select out of the
camp 50 men in whom he could place implicit
confidence. These were to be the standing guard
to watch the camp at night, 12 of them to act
as sentries at a time, and there were to be two
parties of 12 every night, each party to perform
guard duty one-half of the night. In cases where
the horses and cattle were staked out to graze
at night some distance from the camp an extra
guard was to be selected from the balance of
the company, the standing guard not being
permitted to leave the immediate vicinity of
the wagons. Following are the names of those
selected for form the night guard: Thomas
Tanner (captain), Tarleton Lewis, William Em-
pey, Norton Jacobs, Barnabas L. Adams, Edson
Whipple, Stephen H. Goddard, John Holman,
Addison Everett, Rodney Badger, Conrad Klein-
man, Seeley Owens, George R. Grant, William T.
Vance, John W. Norton, Alexander P. Chessley,
Nathaniel Fairbanks, Franklin G. Losee, James
Craig, Francis M. Pomeroy, Appleton M. Harmon,
Ozro Eastman, Horace Thornton, Datus Ensign,
Luman Curtis, David Powell, Andrew S. Gibbons,
Charles D. Burnham, William Dykes, Horace M.
Frink, Joseph Matthews, William A. King, Syl-
vester H. Earl, John Dixon, Erastus Snow, John
Wheeler, John Eldredge, George Scholes, Samual
H. Marble, Hans C. Hansen, Gilbert Summe,
Hosea Cushing, Rufus Allen, Artimus Johnson,
William A. O. Smoot, Matthew Ivory, and John
Tibbetts.
Following is the complete list of the members
of the pioneer corps as divided off into compa-
nies of ten:
First ten — Wilford Woodruff, captain; Jacob
D. Burnham, Joseph Egbert, Marcus B. Thorpe,
George Wardle, John S. Fowler, Orson Pratt, John
M. Freeman, George A. Smith.
Second ten — Ezra T. Benson, captain; Thomas
Grover, Barnabas L. Adams, Roswell Stevens,
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
The Traveled Two Abreast When Practicable
An original sketch by a Tribune artist, drawn from descriptions
of the manner of travel.
Amasa M. Lyman, Sterling Driggs, Albert Car-
rington, Thomas Bullock, George Brown, Willard
Richards, Jesse C. Little.
Third ten — Phineas H. Young, captain; John
Y. Greene, Thomas Tanner, Brigham Young, Ad-
dison Everett, Truman O. Angell, Lorenzo Young
and wife, Bryant Stringham, Albert P. Rockwood,
Joseph S. Schofield.
Fourth ten — Luke S. Johnson, captain; John
Holman, Edmund Ellsworth, Alvarus Hanks,
George R. Grant, Millen Atwood, Samuel Fox,
Tunis Rappleyee, Harry Pierce, William Dykes,
Jacob Weiler.
Fifth ten — Stephen H. Goddard, captain;
Tarleton Lewis, Henry G. Sherwood, Zebedee
Coltrin, Sylvester H. Earl, John Dixon, Samual
H. Marble, George Scholes, William Henrie,
William A. Empey.
Sixth ten — Charles Shumway, captain;
Andrew Shumway, Thomas Woolsey, Chauncey
Loveland, Erastus Snow, James Craig, William
Wordsworth, William Vance, Simeon Howd,
Seeley Owen.
Seventh ten — James Case, captain; Artimas
Johnson, William C. A. Smoot, Franklin B. Dew-
ey, William Carter, Franklin G. Losee, Burr Frost,
Datus Ensign, Franklin B. Stwart, Monroe Frink,
Eric Glines, Ozro Eastman.
Eighth ten — Seth Taft, captain; Horace Thorn-
ton, Stephen Kelsey, John S. Eldredge, Charles
D. Barnum, Almon M. Willaims, Rufus Allen,
Robert T. Thomas, James W. Stewart, Elijah
Newman, Levi N. Kendall, Francis Boggs, David
Grant.
Ninth ten — Howard Egan, captain; Heber
C. Kimball, William A. King, Thomas Cloward,
Hosea Cushing, Robert Byard, George Billings,
Edson Whipple, Philo Johnson, William Clayton.
Tenth ten — Appleton M. Harmon, captain;
Carlos Murray, Horace K. Whitney, Orson K.
Whitney, Orrin P. Rockwell, Nathaniel T. Brown,
R. Jackson Redding, John Pack, Francis Pomeroy,
Aaron Farr, Nathaniel Fairbanks.
Eleventh ten — John S. Higbee, captain;
John Wheeler, Solomon Chamberlin, Conrad
Kleinman, Joseph Rooker, Perry Fitzgerald, John
H. Tippets, James Davenport, Henson Walker,
Benjamin W. Rolfe.
Twelfth ten — Norton Jacobs, captain;
Charles A. Harper, George Woodward, Stephen
Markham, Lewis Barney, George Mills, Andrew
Gibbons, Joseph Hancock, John W. Norton.
Thirteenth ten — John Brown, captain;
Shadrach Roundy, Hans C. Hansen, Levi Jack-
man, Lyman Curtis, Matthew Ivory, David Power
(or Powell), Hark Lay (negro), Oscar Crosby
(negro).
Fourteenth ten — Joseph Matthews, captain;
Gillroid Summe, John Gleason, Charles Burke,
Alexander P. Chessley, Rodney Badger, Norman
Taylor, Green Flake (negro).
Besides these brethren there were three
women in camp, namely, Harriet Page Wheeler
Young (wife of Lorenzo D. Young), Clarissa Deck-
er Young (wife of Brigham Young), and Ellen
Saunders Kimball (wife of Heber C. Kimball).
Also two children (Isaac Perry Decker and Lo-
renzo Zobriskie Young), making a grand total in
the pioneer company of 143 men and boys, three
women and two children, or 148 souls all told.
The company had 72 wagons, 93 horses, 52
mules, 66 oxen, 19 cows, 17 dogs, and some
chickens.
The organization thus far being completed,
the pioneers broke camp at 2 p.m. and started
on the eventful journey for the Rocky Mountains.
They traveled that afternoon (April 16, 1847)
about three miles, and camped in a line a few
hundred yards from timber, where there were
plenty of cottonwoods and rushes.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847 13

Day 13 • Saturday, April 17

After a cold night in the pioneer camp flintlock, take out the priming and
there was ice on the water in the morning. fill the pan with twine or cotton.
The guard complained much of the severity The wagons must keep together
of the weather and the brethren generally when traveling and not separate
wrapped themselves in their buffalo robes as the have hitherto done, and
and blankets. every man must walk beside his
After the cattle had been attended to, or- own wagon, and only leave it by
ders were given to travel in companies of tens, permission.”
and at 9:05 a.m. the teams were hitched up These pointed instructions were
and Heber C. Kimball’s division led the way. good and timely, as the pioneers
The Pioneers journeyed over a sandy plain, were traveling through an Indian
surrounded on each side by willows, high country.
weeds and dry grass, and, after traveling eight A little before sunset, a trader
miles, they encamped at noon to prepare for came from the Pawnee village, his
the Sabbath. wagon loaded with furs and pelts,
Their wagons were placed in line from and stopped for the night about a
north to south, fronting a cottonwood grove mile below the pioneer encamp-
on the west. The brethren felled a number of ment.
trees to feed the tams and save corn. There In the evening some diversion
was a small lake close to the camp, and the was indulged in, being started by
Platte River was about a half mile away. In the Ellis Eames and Hans C. Hansen,
afternoon a bed of rushes was discovered to who brought out their violins, and
which the cattle were driven and kept there for half an hour the still night air
until evening. An Indian was seen on the resounded with the stains of enter-
south side of the river. taining music.
About 5:30 p.m. the bugle was sounded William C. A. Smoot, whose
William C. A. Smoot
and the pioneers assembled around President portrait is given on this page, was
Young, forming into regimental columns one of the original pioneers. He Jan. 30, 1828, Roan County, Tennessee
under their captains of tens, when it was was born January 30, 1828, in — Jan. 31, 1920, Salt Lake City
voted that the camp should be organized into Roane County, Tennessee, and died
military order and act as one regiment with January 31, 1920, in Sugarhouse,
Brigham Young as lieutenant general, Stephen Salt Lake City. At the time of his
Markham as colonel, John Pack and Shadrach demise he was the only surviving member of Green Flake 1829
Roundy as majors, and Albert P. Rockwood the original Utah pioneer company, with the John S. Gleason 1819
as aid. The brethren who had already been exception of Lorenzo Zobrieski Young, one Stephen H. Gaddard 1810
appointed captains of tens were reappointed of the two pioneer children. Mr. Smoot was Charles A. Harper 1817
in a military capacity, except John Pack, who interviewed by a Tribune reporter in 1897, Stephen Kelsey 1817
was given the rank of major, and Appleton M. and though a young man when he made his Levi N. Kendall 1822
Harmon was appointed captain of ten in his pioneer trek, he remembers all the details of Conrad Kleinman 1815
stead. the journey across the plains, and a most en- John W. Norton 1820
Thomas Bullock was sustained as clerk of tertaining morning was passed in listening to Charles Shumway 1806
the camp and Thomas Tanner was appointed his recital. From his personal recollection the A. P. Shumway 1833
captain of the cannon, with the privilege of reporter gleaned many valuable facts relating W. C. A. Smoot 1828
choosing eight men to manage it in case of to the pioneer band, which were used in the James W. Stewart 1825
necessity. The names selected by Captain “day by day journey” published in 1897. Norman Taylor 1828
Thomas Tanner as this gun detachment were In 1897 twenty-eight survivors of the pio- Horace Thronton 1822
Stephen H. Goddard, Seeley Ownen, Thomas neer band were located. Their names, with the W. P. Vance 1822
Woolsey, John G. Luce, Horace Thornton, year of their birth are as follows: Henson Walker 1820
Charles D. Barnum, Sylvester H. Earl, George George W. Brown 1827 George Wardle 1820
Scholes, and Rufus Allen. Thomas P. Cloward 1823 Wilford Woodruff 1807
President Young then said, “After we start Lyman Curtis 1812 George Woodard 1819
from here, every man must carry his loaded Franklin B. Dewey 1829 Lorenzo S. Young 1841
gun or keep it in the wagon where he can put Isaac Perry Decker 1840 It is possible that others of the company
his hand on it at a moment’s warning. If the Ozro F. Eastman 1828 were alive in 1897, but in a few cases all trac-
gun is a cap locker, take off the cap and put a Joseph Egbert 1818 es of those who went to California in the early
little leather to keep wet, etc., out, but if it is a Aaron F. Farr 1818 fifties are lost.
14 Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847

Day 14 • Sunday, April 18

There had been a wagons being locked in
slight frost in the pioneer half-moon shape from
camp on the Platte River two points near the
during the night, making water, the bank forming
a thin skim of ice on the sufficient protection on
water. The weather was the water’s edge. After
cloudy until noon, when this date the camps were
it cleared up. Ellis Eames, formed on these lines
who had been selected and in subsequent weeks
as one of the pioneers, the pioneers became
decided to return to Win- proficient in driving their
ter Quarters on account wagons at night to the ex-
of ill health. A number act position to be locked
of farewell letters were in the circle. After the
written by some of the pi- first days were passed, it
oneers and sent to Winter became quite an easy task
Quarters by Mr. Eames, to strike camp, and when
who started back with the the order was given for
trader’s wagon. Perspective of an Encampment of Pioneers the day’s rest, it would be
About 10 o’clock, about but a short time when all
seven teams loaded with Drawn by a Tribune staff artist from descriptions of would be in readiness for
peltry, belonging to Mr. the method adopted in making each night’s camp the night, and out of the
Sarpy, a noted trapper, level prairie would arise
passed the pioneer camp. These teams were Indians, or when there were signs of danger. the mimic city.
returning from their trade with the Pawnee The wagons would travel in double file and It must have been a strange sight to follow
Indians. Shadrach Roundy purchased some halt an hour for dinner, and in forming the the train in its weary march across the deso-
buffalo meat from the traders, which was encampment wagons should be arranged in late prairie, whose solitude had only been bro-
enjoyed by the pioneers. a circle with the mouth on the outside, and ken by the occasional trips of hunters, herds
The pioneers observed this Sabbath as a horses and stock should be secured and tied of buffalo, and migrating Indians who rest-
day of rest and only attended to their cattle. inside of the circle. lessly wandered over the country. Seventy-two
About 5 p.m., as James Case was cutting down At 8:30 p.m., at the blowing of the horn, ev- wagons, with 148 persons and 247 animals,
a cottonwood tree, a sudden gust of wind blew ery man should retire to his wagon and pray, crossing the plains in a compact body, made
it in a contrary direction, and, in falling, one and all except the night guard should be in quite a good showing, and when the camp
of the branches knocked in the right eye of an bed at 9 o’clock. All fires were to be put out at was made in the manner described, quite a
ox belonging to John Taylor. The ox, however, bedtime. These rules were to continue in force settlement was formed. Thus, where but an
did not seem seriously hurt, for 10 minutes until further orders. The captains were also hour before the country was given over to the
after the accident happened the eye returned instructed to drill their men in military tactics. Indians and wild beasts, would be created, as
to its place. The rules of the camp were communicated if by magic, quite a bustling village, with its
The Twelve retired into the woods to coun- by the captains of tens to the members of population included men of all trades, who
sel together. the companies. The pioneers were to camp had been selected on this account to build
About 6:20 p.m. President and Extra T. Ben- each night as near together as possible. The up the new country. There were sailors and
son met in the grove with the captains of com- livestock was to be kept inside an enclosure, soldiers, accountants and students, bricklay-
panies and gave instructions to the effect that formed by locking the wagons together, ers, carpenters, blacksmiths, wagon-makers,
a horn would be blown at 5 a.m., when every after the custom of the plains. All the wagon lumbermen, farmers, dairymen, stock raisers,
man should arise and attend to prayers before tongues were placed outside with the fore engineers, millers, and mechanics of all kinds.
leaving his wagon. Then cooking, eating, and wheel of one wagon locked in the hind wheel They are the ones who were apportioned to
feeding cattle, etc., should be attended to until of the next wagon. At both ends of the corral perform the labor of building up the future
7 a.m., at which time the camp was expected thus formed were gateways always carefully city of the Great Salt Lake — the city of today —
to move at the sound of the bugle. Each extra guarded. Many of the pioneers slept in their bearing innumerable monuments of their skill
man should travel on the off side of his team wagons, but there were tents carried along, and ingenuity, while in various other parts
with his loaded gun over his shoulder, and and these were pitched near the wagons on of the great west are public works, factories,
each driver should carry his gun with caps the outside, the whole camp being patrolled and settlements which arose under their
and powder flasks ready for use in such a by the guards all night. Sometimes the camp supervision.
way that he could lay is hand upon it at a would be made near a lake or river, and in
moment’s warning, in case of attack by hostile this case, the corral would be formed by the
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 15 • Monday, April 19
The morning was quite cold, but clear in the
pioneer camp on the Platte. At 5 a.m. the soud
of the bugle awoke the sleepers in the camp,
which was 57 miles from Winter Quarters. After
prayer, the pioneers attended the cattle, hitched
up their teams and started about 7:30 o’clock,
two teams traveling abreast in a westerly
direction, the men walking by the side of their
wagons.
Professor Orson Pratt took an observation
and found the noon camp to be at latitude 40
degrees 27 minutes 5 seconds. As the crossing
of the Elkhorn was at latitude 41 degrees 16
minutes 27 seconds, the camp at the north
bend of the Platte was ten and half miles farther
north than the Elkhorn ford.
After traveling about a mile from the en-
campment, the pioneers came to a place where
a battle had been fought among the Indians; for
a distance of about a mile, the brethren walked
through a compact mass of graves, which were
supposed to contain the remains of the warriors
who had fallen in battle.
After traveling about eight miles over a level
prairie, which, in some places, was sandy, the
pioneers passed several pools, or small lakes,
where some enjoyed themselves in shooting
ducks and other wild fowl.
At 1:40 p.m., after traveling about 15 miles,
the pioneers stopped for noon, at the bend of
the Platte, to feed their teams. At this point a
small branch of the river made a somewhat
circular turn to the left of the mainstream,
forming an island. During the noon hour, Jesse
C. Little, R. Jackson Redden, O. Porter Rockwell,
and Thomas Brown overtook the pioneers and
brought a mail of 30 letters, which were soon
distributed to their owners.
About 3 p.m. the pioneers resumed their
journey, traveling in the same order as in the
forenoon. During the afternoon, which was
warm, the pioneers traveled about five miles
and camped at 6:30 p.m. near a group of timber
on the banks of the Platte, about half way
between the stations of North Bend and Rogers
on the Union Pacific Railroad, having traveled
during the day 20 miles.
The water in the Platte River was muddy and
timber scarce. The brethren formed a circle
from edge to edge on the bank of the river,
which served on one side as a line of defense,
placing their wagons so that their tongues
pointed outward, with the fore wheel of each
wagon placed against the hind wheel of the
wagon in front. All the horses and cattle were
15
taken inside the circle, in order to
be secure against the Indians.
The Platte, which at this point
was about a mile wide, flowed deep
and rapid. The country through
which the pioneers traveled this
day on the north side of the river
was a level prairie without any
bluffs, but about two miles from the
river arose a table land about 19
feet high. The banks on the south
side of the river, along with day’s
travel, were lined with cottonwood
trees, and the country was quite
hilly, the steep bluffs coming down
to the river.
Up to this time William Clayton
had measured the distance traveled
by a novel arrangement. He mea-
sured the circumference of a wheel
on one of the wagons, and then Aaron F. Farr, one of the
tied some red flannel on a spoke
heart the tire. He marched by that first band of pioneers
wheel constantly and, counting its Oct. 31, 1818, Waterford, Vermont
revolutions, easily determined the — Nov. 8, 1903, Logan, Utah
distance traveled that day; but on
the evening of April 19, William
Clayton took Orson Pratt down by the river and creek suckers. Such ill luck is not confined to
explained to him his project of constructing fishermen of 87 years ago, but is as frequently
on the hub of a wagon wheel a set of wooden encountered by the modern disciples of Isaak
cogs in such order as to tell the exact num- Walton.
ber of miles traveled each day. The two men Their boat, the “Revenue Cutter,” is worthy of
discussed the project, and it was agreed that particular mention. It was constructed of leath-
it was a simple device which could easily be er and had formerly belonged to Ira Eldredge. It
constructed, and they forthwith proposed to put was placed on wheels as a wagon box and goods
the project forward. This was the beginning of were packed in the boat exactly as if it had been
the so-called “roadometer,” which was adapted a wagon box; but its usefulness was not limited
by the pioneers soon afterward for measuring to this degree of transportation, for in many
distance traveled after that. The same evening ways it played a more prominent part when
John S. Higbee was told of the scheme by Mr. streams were to be crossed and waterways
Clayton, and the matter became an enthusiastic investigated.
project among some of the pioneers. Aaron F. Farr, whose portrait appears in
After the encampment was formed at the Tribute today, was one of the original 143
night, Luke S. Johnson was asked by Stephen pioneers of Utah. He was born in Waterford,
Markham to take his team and the leather boat Caledonia County, Vermont, October 31, 1818,
known by the pioneers as the “Revenue Cutter,” and died in Logan, Utah, November 8, 1903.
back on the road about two miles to be used Mr. Farr, when in a reminiscent mood, was an
for fishing in the lakes. Brother Johnson was entertaining and interesting man, and until the
the driver of the team which hauled the boat time of his death, he took delight in relating
and, while traveling, he rode in the boat as he stories of the great journey across the plains, in
would have done in a wagon box. They drove which he took a leading part. Later he became
back, launched the boat, and started to draw one of the prominent citizens of Ogden.
in the net, but according to the historian, they
only caught one snapping turtle, four small
turtles, one duck, two small catfish, and two
16
Day 16 • Tuesday, April 20
A strong wind had prevailed in the pioneer
camp during the night and caused the wagons
to be covered with sand and dust, but the
weather was fair in the morning. On the banks
of the Platt the grass was at this time about
four inches high, but it grew scattered and was
not very good. Water fowls, such as ducks and
geese, were numerous along the Platte, but the
sandhill cranes were the most plentiful of all
and flew in large flocks all around the pioneer
camp. The bugle was blown at 5 a.m. to call
the camp and soon afterward the cattle were
turned out to graze. At 6:30 a.m. the brethren
gathered up the cattle and at 7:15 a.m. started
on their day’s journey.
As they traveled on, they passed the Indian
mound, and after traveling two and a half miles
they came to another grove of cottonwoods,
covering about 40 acres of land. From that
place the distance was about five miles to the
tableland, which at this point rises to a bluff
on the north side of the river. In traveling in a
southwest direction they passed three islands
in the Platte covered with timber, the largest
containing about ten acres. There was, in fact,
a continuous chain of islands in the river for
miles.
Traveling over a level country covered with
grass, the pioneers arrived at Shell Creek, a
stream about eight feet wide, spanned by a
poor bridge, but all the argons crossed over
without accident. This crossing was about five
miles from the previous night’s encampment
and two miles from the Platte.
About a mile from Shell Creek, the pioneers
encountered a prairie dog village occupying
about six acres of ground. From the Shell
Creek bridge the road ran southwest for about
15 miles. The Platte was skirted with timber.
Orson Pratt and Wilford Woodruff rode ahead
of the company, making observations. The
company traveled 13 miles, and stopped. On
the road they frequently saw gopher hills from
one to six feet in dimension, and from three
inches to a foot in height, some of them resem-
bling a potato patch. These gopher hills made
the traveling rough for the wagons.
At 11:30 a.m. the company stopped by a
slough or lake to feed and eat, etc. Orson Pratt
took an observation at noon on the left bank
of the Platte, ten miles west of Shell Creek, at
latitude 41 degrees 25 minutes 2 seconds. At 1
o’clock the journey resumed from the pool and
the company traveled 10 miles in the afternoon
and encamped about 6 p.m. near a cottonwood
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
grove on the bank of the
Platte and near the present
site of Richland, on the
U.P.R.R. Thomas Tanner’s
bellows and anvil were set up
and a number of wagon tires
were set before dark.
John S. Higgbee, Luke S.
Johnson, Stephen Markham,
and some others started
ahead of the company and
went about two miles farther
than the camp with the “Rev-
enue Cutter,” the seine and
three wagons to a lake where
they at once commenced
fishing. They caught more
than 200 fish, mostly buffalo
fish and carp, and arrived
with them about the time the
camp was forming. The fish
were distributed among the John Brown, one of the pioneers
members of the camp accord-
ing to the number of persons Oc. 23, 1820, Sumner County, Tennessee
in each wagon, generally two — Nov. 4, 1896, Pleasant Grove, Utah
to a wagon, and the brethren
enjoyed a good supper.
After camping for the night in a circle, the November 4, 1896. He was born October 23,
brethren cut down cottonwood trees to feed the 1820, in Sumner County, Tennessee. After
horses on the bark; the animals would seem- coming west with the pioneers he returned
ingly gall off the bark from limbs and sticks the same year for his family and settled on Big
ten inches through as readily as they would eat Cottonwood after arriving in the valley. In 1854
corn. Some of the horses were taken across a he moved to Lehi, and in 1863 was chosen
branch of the Platte River to an island, where bishop of Pleasant Grove. He is said to have
they were turned out for the night to browse crossed the plains 13 times, always by team,
on the cottonwood trees which were plentiful except his last trip, which he took by train in
there. The oxen and cows, after grazing, were 1869, returning from a mission to the southern
taken inside the camp circle for the night. states.
Thus far on the journey the pioneers had John Brown was with Orson Pratt on the
had to feed their animals on cottonwood, but slopes of the Big Mountain, July 19, 1847, and
each horse was also given two quarts of corn it was from these nights that the two pioneers
per day. During the day the pioneers passed first obtained a glimpse of the valley of the
over the present site of Schuyler in Colfax Great Salt Lake, which appeared through the
County, Nebraska, and camped for the night V-shaped walls of the canyon beyond. They
near the present side of Richland on the Union knew it was an open country in the Great Basin
Pacific Railroad, or opposite an island in the to which their steps had been directed for
Platte River, having traveled during the day 18 weary weeks past, but they had not expected
miles. As the Pawnee Indians were camped such a vision as appeared to them on that hot
only eight miles from the pioneer encamp- July morning. It was the first fulfillment of
ment, it was deemed necessary to have a patrol the promises made by their leader, President
guard out for the night. Jesse C. Little was ap- Young, to whom was sent back a cheering word
pointed to act as the aid to Colonel Markham. of the vanguard’s progress through the moun-
John Brown, one of the pioneers whose por- tains and into the “promised land.”
trait appears today, was a resident and bishop
of Pleasant Grove for many years, until he died
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 17 • Wednesday, April 21
The weather was cloudy in the morning in
the pioneer camp on the Platte, with a slight
sprinkling of rain; the wind was in the east.
In continuing the journey, the ox teams start-
ed at 7 a.m. and the horse teams at 8 o’clock. At
8:45 a.m., the pioneers having traveled about
two miles, an Indian appeared on the elevation,
mounted on a pony, about five miles away. He
soon went out of sight, but again appeared, and
then approached the wagons at full speed. He
was met by the brethren and shook hands with
them in a most friendly manner. He was soon
followed by seven others, who went through the
lines and then returned with the brethren.
At 10 a.m. the pioneers arrived at a fork in
the road, the one on the left leading across the
Loup Fork River to the new Pawnee village,
while the one to the right left that little village
some distance to the south. A consultation was
held by President Young and Father James Case
relative to the roads crossing the river, etc., and
it was concluded to take the right hand road.
The pioneers proceeded accordingly, and at
noon they came in sight of a number of houses,
and soon afterward in sight of the new Pawnee
village, situated on an open spot on the south
bank of the Loup Fork, between two bodies of
timber. At 12:30 p.m., the pioneers were oppo-
site the village and could distinctly see upward
of 100 lodges set fairly close together; these
lodges appeared to be ranged in several lines
in systematic order. The company, in mourning
along, passed the Indian village on the north
side of Loup Fork and arrived at a long narrow
lake by the side of the timber and near the river
(Loup Fork). Here at 1 o’clock the encampment
was formed on the bank of the lake and a
guard instantly placed at the passes, as many
of the Indians had followed the pioneers to the
campground.
The pioneers remained at their noon en-
campment for about an hour to water and graze
their animals, and during that hour about 75
Indians visited the camp, including the chief
of the Pawnee nation. Many of them waded in
the river, which at that place was quite shallow.
Some of the Indians presented certificates
signed by white people who had previously
passed through, or visited, their village, all cer-
tifying that the grand chief of the Pawnees was
friendly disposed toward the “whites,” and that
they had made him presents of a little powder,
lead, salt, etc. One of the letters of commenda-
tion was signed by Peter A. Sarpy, the trader.
The chief, together with others of his time,
were very friendly, but wanted presents. The
17
brethren collected a quantity
of powder, lead, tobacco, salt,
flour, and a number of fish-
hooks and other trinkets and
presented them to the chief.
Heber C. Kimball gave a
little tobacco and salt. Pres-
ident Young gave the chief
some powder, lead, salt, etc.,
and a number of brethren
gave a little flour each. Presi-
dent Young then proposed to
shake hands with the chief,
and part in friendship, but
the chief refused to shake
hands and appeared very
angry. Upon inquiry into
the cause of his passion, he
stated, through his interpret-
er, that the “heap” (presents)
was too little. The whites
were rich, he said, and had
tea, coffee, and sugar, and Willard Richards
an abundance of everything, June 24, 1804, Hopkinton, Massachusetts
and yea had given the Indians
— March 11, 1854, Salt Lake City
only a little. He said the
pioneers would kill and drive
away the buffaloes, and so
he wanted the pointers to turn back instead of of the Loup Fork, near the pioneer encamp-
going on. All this proved to the brethren that ment, but the firing of a few guns and other
the traders, Missourians and others had used demonstrations on the part of the pioneers
their influence with the Indians against the served notice on the savages that the breth-
“Mormons,” and thus the brethren were put on ren were awake and ready to act. No Indians
their guard. While the chief was sulky, many of appeared during the night.
the other Indians were anxious to shake hands The night was a fearful one, cold, windy,
with the brethren. Peter A. Sarpy was camping and rainy. It was the commencement of the
among the Indians at thistle and was trading hardships attending the trip across the plains,
with them, mainly exchanging tobacco and trin- and during the long watches of the night, when
kets for buffalo robes, etc. the storm was at its height, and and attack by
After halting about an hour for noon the the Indians was momentarily expected, the
pioneers again broke camp and resumed their weary guards had ample time to peer into the
journey; they traveled eight miles and camped future and it is possible that they fully realized
at 6 o’clock on the prairie at the mouth of Look- for the first time the dangers that confront
ing Glass Creek, or the place where that little them in their advent into the new and unknown
steam empties into Loup Fork, after traveling country.
18 miles during the day. A notable figure of the pioneer band was
As the pioneers pursued their journey in the Willard Richards. he was one of the histo-
afternoon they encountered a strong wind and rians of the journey, and closely associated
there was considerable rain. After camping, the with Brigham Young and the other leaders in
cannon was prepared for action, and 100 men all their councils and plans. He was born in
were called to stand guard during the night, 50 Hopkinton, Middlesex County, Massachusetts,
at a time, including the picket guard. In fact, June 24, 1804, and died in Salt Lake City, March
nearly the whole camp volunteered to stand 11, 1854, as second counselor to President
guard in the forepart of the night and the other Brigham Young.
50 the latter part. The brethren saw Indian fires
all round and also on the opposite or south side
18
Day 18 • Thursday, April 22
It was a beautiful morning in the pioneer camp
on the Loup Fork; a gentle northwest wind was
blowing.
The pioneers broke camp at 7:30 a.m. and
journeyed in a westerly direction over a level
country covered with dry buffalo grass, yet
crossed several small hills and hollows. After
traveling two miles they crossed Looking Glass
Creek, a small stream about a rod wide, which
was easily forded. After traveling eight miles
farther they came to Beaver Creek, a swift steam
about 25 feet wide with good water. The banks
were tolerably well lined with timber, but were
steep on both sides, and the water was about two
feet deep. Here the company halted for noon,
about a mile below where the town of Genoa (on
the Union Pacific Railroad) now stands in Nance
County, Nebraska.
The brethren found some beaver in this creek
about a mile above its mouth. Professor Orson
Pratt took the meridian observation of the sun
by the sextant for the latitude, which was found
to be 41 degrees, 15 minutes, 33 seconds. The
longitude was 98 degrees, 15 minutes.
At 2 p.m. the journey continued, the ox teams
starting out first. In crossing Beaver Creek about
12 of the brethren stood on the west bank with a
long rope which was hooked to the wagon tongue
and assisted the teams pulling the wagons up the
bank. The water in the creek was about two feet
deep; the creek was lined with scattering timber,
cottonwoods, willows, etc. The journey was then
continued over a somewhat broken country
(there being many steep pitches and rises) for
a distance of seven miles. Yet the country was
beautiful with the Loup Fork on one side and a
ridge on the other; there were, here and there,
groups of trees resembling orchards in an old
settled country. The bluffs were skirted with some
oaks in the hills to the north.
At 5:30 p.m. the pioneers arrived at the
Pawnee missionary station. This station, formerly
occupied by the Rev. J. Dunbar, was deserted the
previous fall, and the missionaries’ effects were
carried to Bellevue on the Missouri River. The
Pawnee missionary station was beautifully locat-
ed near the point where Plum Creek empties into
Loup Fork. On the north and west the station was
surrounded by bluffs, on the south by Loup Fork
(about three-fourths of a mile distant) and on the
east by a descending prairie.
Plum Creek ran through the station only a few
rods from the missionary house. Its banks were
lined with timber. There was also a steep bank on
each side, and between these banks, in the valley
(which was a few rods wide), the Sioux Indians
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
had been in the habit of coming
down to attack the Pawnees.
The pioneers found a number
of good log houses standing and
considerable land under cultivation,
enclosed by rail fences; there was
also a good quantity of hay and
fodder, logs of old and new iron, two
stoves, several plows and a drag, all
apparently left to rot.
The government station was
one-fourth of a mile below or south,
where Father James Case lived as
a government farmer and received
$300 a year for his services. Major
Thomas H. Harvey learned, on the
last payday (which was the previous
November) that Father Case had
joined the “Mormons”; he very
politely dismissed him from govern-
ment service.
Some time before the pioneers
passed through, the Sioux came
down and burned up the govern- Henson Walker
ment station houses, blacksmith March 12, 1820, Manchester,
shop, and almost everything on
New York — Jan. 24, 1904,
the grounds, except the missionary
station, which they did not touch.
Pleasant Grove, Utah
Before dark, President Young
called the camp together and told the brethren recital of the journey from day to day published
that they might use the fodder and hay for their by the Tribune in 1897.
teams, but forbade any man carrying anything Mr. Waker stated that in the summer days
away even to the value of a cent. He said that he of 1847, Wilford Woodruff was an enthusiastic
had no fear of the Pawnees troubling the pioneers fisherman, and whenever camp was made near
at this point, but they had better be prepared lest a stream, Elder Woodruff, when possible, would
the Sioux should come down for the purpose of leave the camp and with his fishing pose over his
stealing horses. A guard was selected and a picket shoulder, make for the nearest stream, and nearly
guard set to watch the ravine on the north. The always he would return with a good string of fish.
cannon was also prepared, and Thomas Tanner Mr. Walker himself was one of the hunters of
drilled his men until dark, showing them how to the party, and his greatest enjoyment, when walk-
use it. In the evening Elder Clayton again intro- ing in the hills or over the prairie with his trusty
duced the subject of fixing machinery to measure rifle, was to hunt, and if he was successful, as
distances traveled and the time it would take many times he was, he would bring to camp and
to make the machinery. Several of the brethren antelope or as much other game as he could carry.
caught the idea and felt confident of its success. Mr. Waker was one of the younger men of the
According to Orson Pratt’s deductions the camp, being only 27 years of age when the jour-
evening encampment at the Pawnee mission on ney began. He was born in Manchester, Ontario
the left bank of the Loup Fork was latitude 40 County, New York, March 12, 1820, and died in
degrees, 24 minutes, 34 seconds. Pleasant Grove, Utah, January 24, 1904. He had
Henson Walker was one of the few living mem- been a resident of Pleasant Grove for many years,
bers of the first band of pioneers alive in 1897. and had acted for some time as a bishop of the
His home was at Pleasant Grove, where he was settlement. His genial and pleasant ways, and his
interviewed by the correspondent of the Tribune, general characteristics, made him popular with
to whom he spoke in very interesting terms about his people, by whom he was highly respected
his trip across the plains, and his personal recol- when he passed away.
lections constituted an interesting addition to the
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 19 • Friday, April 23
In the morning the air was chilly in the pio-
neer camp on Plum Creek, but later in the day
the weather was warm and pleasant.
At 7:45 a.m. President Young, Heber C.
Kimball, Wilford Woodruff and nine others
left the camp on horseback for the purpose of
finding a good place to ford the dangerous and
treacherous Loup Fork. They went down the
river for some distance and some of the men
waded across the stream, but found so much
quicksand, and the water so deep, that they
concluded to drive up to the old Pawnee village.
Failing to find the lower ford suitable for
crossing, President Young gave orders that the
pioneers would have to go four miles farther
upstream and there build a raft on which to
cross the Loup Fork.
William Clayton started out about noon to
view the ruins of the buildings, etc., which the
Sioux had burned. He found a large quantity
of good bar iron and a number of plows which
the brethren put into their wagons on terms
proposed by Father Case.
While President Young and the others were
out in the morning looking for a ford, the
company remained in camp, where some of
the brethren engaged in repairing wagons and
doing other necessary work.
All the spare hands in camp were called
for with spades and shovels, etc., to grade the
hill down to Plum Creek, and about 1 p.m. the
company, having hitched up their teams, left
the camp ground and crossed Plum Creek with
some difficulty (the crossing being bad). Thus
they left the Pawnee town with its corn gardens,
crossed a tableland and descended to another
creek (Cedar Creek), which they also crossed
with some difficulty, though it was narrow and
sandy. After traveling two miles farther, the
company arrived at the intended crossing place
on the Loup Fork, or within a short distance of
the old Pawnee village, about 3 p.m. This place
was about four miles from their last encamp-
ment.
Immediately after camping, the brethren
commenced searching for a ford, but they fond
the whole bed of the river a universal body of
quicksand, which would cause a horse or wag-
on which should step on it, to sink deep into.
The river at this point had two channels, with a
sandbar in the middle. The deepest water mea-
sured from three to four feet in depth and the
current was very rapid, the distance straight
across was about 300 yards. In some places the
quicksand was so soft that man or beast would
sink in it instantly.
But notwithstanding the threatened
difficulties, the pioneers immediately made
preparations to cross the river. The prospects
for fasting across seemed rather impracticable,
because of the sandbars and rapid current, and
so it was decided to try fording. The Loup Fork,
at this place, was not more than two feet deep,
but there were a great many beds of quicksand,
which were dangerous to teams and calculated
to shake a wagon to pieces. In crossing the
quicksands, the wagons would make a noise as
if they were going over a stone pavement.
Luke S. Johnson was the first who went over.
He left the leather boat (“Revenue Cutter”),
in which he traveled, on the north side of the
river, and crossed the running; and although he
had no load (not even a wagon box) it was with
difficulty he got across.
Orson Pratt, who had a high strung, spirited
team, started next with a part of his load, but
when he got into the stream and had gone a rod
from shore, his horses began to sink in the sand
and were thus unable to pull. A number of the
brethren jumped into the water and lived at the
wheels, etc., until they got him to a sandbar in
the middle of the river. He then started for the
other sandbar and about halfway across the
horses sank in the quicksand so badly that one
of the animals fell down. A number of men im-
mediately hurled to Brother Pratt’s assistance,
took the animals off the wagon and led them
across to the sandbar. President Young then
crossed the river in the leather boat, and took
the loading out of Brother Pratt’s carriage into
the boat, after which the carriage was drawn
to the sandbar by men, with the assistance of a
long rope. Soon after Orson Pratt had entered
the river, Wilford Woodruff followed him.
As his ten traveled forward in the company
that day it naturally fell to his lot to make the
trail. He had two yoke of cattle and his horses
hitched onto his carriage, but immediately after
getting into the river, he saw that the cattle
would do but little good, as they were too slow,
and on the way across would stop and begin to
sink. Brother Woodruff, observing this, jumped
out of his carriage into the water waist deep,
and about a dozen men came to his assistance
with ropes, which they hitched to the oxen, and
thus succeeded in getting the carriage across
the first channel, but with great difficulty.
Even when out of the water Elder Woodruff’s
horses and wagon began immediately to sink
again, and by treating the sand a little it would
become a perfect quagmire.
Although it was sinking, the brethren had to
leave Brother Woodruff’s carriage where it was,
for Orson Pratt, at that moment, in trying to
cross the second channel of the river, had (as al-
ready stated) sunk into a bed of quicksand and
all the men had to go to his assistance to get
his horses and wagon out. The horses were un-
hitched from the wagon, the load taken out and
loaded into the leather boat, as state, carried to
shore and the wagon drawn out by the men.
Next, Brother Woodruff took off most of
his load and put it into the boat, and he then
crossed the second channel of the river with the
empty wagon. Two other wagons, belonging to
John Pack and William L. Wardsworth, respec-
19
tively, were helped over in the same manner.
President Young, finding the fording so diffi-
cult, ordered that no more wagons should cross
the river in that way, but that the company
should move up the stream about one-fourth of
a mile and there camp till morning. Agreeable
to these instructions, the wagons were again
reloaded and started, and after traveling a short
distance they formed another encampment
about 6 p.m., on a bluff opposite the crossing
place. Here the night was spent.
In the evening the captains of 10 were called
together by President Young and a vote was
taken in favor of building two light rafts, Tarl-
ton Lew is to superintend the building of one
and Thomas Woolsey the other. It was decided
to take as many loads of property over in the
boat as possible and then let the teams with the
empty wagons ford the river. By this time, the
assertion was made by some of the brethren,
that after a number of teams had crossover, the
and would pack down and afford good crossing.
Several of the brethren who had crossed the
river during the day believed this and decided
to give it a fair trial on the marrow. Brother
Markham was appointed to pick out the best
fording place, stake it out and drive all the loose
cattle over.
In the evening, Willard Richards reported
that he had visited the old Pawnee village about
half a mile west of the pioneer encampment,
going there on horseback, and had counted the
remains of about 175 houses, which had been
burned to the ground by the Sioux Indians,
while the Pawnees were on their hunting
expeditions; also a great number of holes which
had been used caching the corn, etc., were
examined by the pioneers.
Wilford Woodruff and five other men, who
had crossed Loup Fork found it necessary to
spend the night without horses or wagons on
the south bank of the river, to guard their teams
against a Pawnee band of Indians who were
camped a short distance below on the same
side of the river. The six brethren divided their
little company so that only three were on guard
at a time.
Orson Pratt, Wilford Woodruff, and John
Pack were chosen to stand guard the forepart
of the night, and although Brother Woodruff
had been in the water during the afternoon,
he stood guard in his wet clothing one-half
the night and slept in them the other half. The
six brethren had just made arrangements for
spending the night that way, when they were
joined by five other men who crossed the river
in the boat. They were sent over by President
Young to assist Orson Pratt and the other breth-
ren with him. This made 11 men altogether
who spent the night on the south side of Loup
Fork, while the main company were camped on
the opposite side. The night passed off in peace,
the Indians making no disturbance.
20
Day 20 • Saturday, April 24
The morning was pleasant in the pioneer
camp on Loup Fork, and the brethren were
all up at the sound of the horn, when it was
discovered that a favorite horse belonging
to President Young and driven by John W.
Greene was dead; it had fallen into a small
ravine and the chain by which it was fastened
to the post was drawn tight around its neck
and caused suffocation.
Elder Orson Pratt, who, together with ten
others of the pioneers, had spent the night on
the south bank of the fording place of Loup
Fork four miles from the missionary station,
too a meridian observation of the sun for the
latitude and found that the camp was in lati-
tude 41 degrees 22 minutes and 37 seconds.
Heber C. Kimball, Lorenzon D. Young and
Howard Egan went up the river about a mile
to see if they could find a better fording place.
Elder George Woodard and Howard Egan
also crossed the river, but found it difficult
crossing. On their return to camp, they found
the brethren busy laying plans for crossing
the river (Loup Fork) and some were already
crossing.
The captains with their men went to make
two rafts in accordance with the vote given
the previous night. They gathered togeth-
er timber and rails and began to put them
together, while others unloaded some of the
wagons and carried the load on their shoul-
ders down the cliff to the leather boat, which
was then rowed over; but in the meantime,
some of the light-loaded teams crossed the
river at the lower crossing place, and this was
continued until a pretty good road was made
on the quicksand, or more properly called
pressed sand.
Soon some of the heavier wagons ventured
to cross and were successful in doing so by
putting on several horse and mule teams to
each wagon. This crossing was effected a little
higher up than where Elders Pratt, Woodruff,
and the others had crossed the day before,
and the more the ground was trodden in the
water the smoother and harder it grew.
After this discovery, the whole encamp-
ment turned their wagons back to the ford,
abandoned the rafts and by unloading half
their baggage, and by putting four or five yoke
of oxen or two or three span of horses to a
half-loaded wagon, they began to cross suc-
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
cessfully, and by following the
same track they found that it
became packed and hardened,
so that the teams could move
over more easily, and finally
most of the company forded
the stream by putting on about
three times as many animals
as constituted and ordinary
team. But in crossing, many
of the wagons had to be raised
from the bolsters and rails put
under to prevent the water
from entering the wagons
boxes.
About 4 p.m. all the wagons
were safely landed on the
south bank of the Loup Fork.
Each captain of ten assisted
each other across; “and so,”
writes Elder Wilford Wood-
ruff, “all Israel went over (not Orrin Porter Rockwell
Jordan), but the Loup Fork of June 25, 1813, New York —
the Platte River without dam-
June 9, 1878, Salt Lake City
age to man or beast.”
After the wagons were all
across, they were relades and the pioneer of New York, June 25, 1813, and died in Salt
company then traveled four miles in a south- Lake City, June 9, 1878. Porter Rockwell, as he
westerly direction up the river and camped on was familiarly called, was an excellent type of
the south bank of at a place where blue grass the rough westerner. He always wore his hair
was plentiful for the teams. The encampment long because in the early days (according to
was formed on the west side of a small lake certain statements), the Prophet Joseph Smith
near the river. In this lake there was an abun- told him that as long as he did not cut his hair,
dance of sunfish, some of which were caught he would be safe from all harm. Many were
by William Clayton. impressed with the belief that his immunity
After the encampment was made, the from harm in his later adventures and excit-
Twelve took a walk upon the high tableland ing career was attributable to the promise of
to make observations of the surrounding Joseph Smith.
country. Rodney Badger was another important
Soon after camp was formed, Orrin Porter member of the pioneer band. He was identi-
Rockwell found that the lake swarmed with fied with all the work surrounding the cross-
sunfish, and many of the pioneers caught an ing of the Loup Fork, as well as being a party
appetizing mess for supper. to other adventures and incidents of the trip.
Footprints of Indians had been found He was born in Waterford, Caledonia County,
around the camp, and it was suspected that Vermont, February 4, 1823, and was drowned
the Indians were following the company, and accidentally in the Weber River, April 29,
the guard was therefore doubled, and the 1853. He never had his picture taken, as no
cannon charged and put into position. photographs were taken in the early days of
Mr. Rockwell, who was a central figure Utah, and for this reason it has been impossi-
in the journey of the pioneer band, in after ble to produce his portrait in these recitals.
years became one of the colorful characters
in Utah’s history. He was born in the State
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 21 • Sunday, April 25
The pioneers arose at the sound of the
horn, attended to their cattle and observed
the Sabbath as a day of rest, or for meditation,
prayer and praise. All was harmony, peace,
and love in the camp and a holy stillness pre-
vailed through the day. The principal sounds
heard were the tinkling of cowbells and the
streams of wild geese as they flew past the
camp. The sky was beautiful and the south
wind was blowing. The brethren took all their
teams out to feed, leaving a few mien to watch
them.
The order of the camp was that there
should be no fishing, hunting, or unneces-
sary labor of any kind on the Sabbath. Four
antelope appeared in sight of the pioneers
on the plain on the opposite side of the river.
The brethren could see them with the naked
eye, but much better through spy glasses. The
sides and bellies of these animals were white
and their backs brown. These were the first
antelope and elk that some of the brethren
had ever seen.
A meridian observation of the sun gave
for the latitude of the camp 41 degrees, 20
minutes, 31 seconds on the right bank of the
Loup Fork, four miles above the ford. This
place of encampment was also 14 miles from
the Platte, and it was said that if the travel
should be continued along the Loup Fork 100
miles farther west the pioneers would not be
30 miles north of the Platte.
About 5 p.m. the brethren were called to-
gether for worship. Presiden Young called on
the choir to sing “This Land Was Once a Gar-
den Place.” Heber C. Kimball offered prayer,
21
after which several of the brethren
spoke briefly, expressing their
feelings. While George A. Smith
was relating the Prophet Joseph’s
instructions not to kill any of the
animals or birds or anything creat-
ed by Almighty God, merely for the
sake of destroying it, a large wolf
came out of the woods on the right
of the camp and walked leisurely
within about 50 rods of the wagons,
as much as to say: “The devil and
I are determined to prove whether
you will practice what is taught.” All
the brethren saw the wolf, but the
meeting continued, and President
Young gave instructions chiefly in
reference to the folly of conforming
to Gentile customs on an expedition
like that of the pioneers.
After dark, the Twelve and some
others met together opposite the
president’s wagon to organize a
Shadrach Roundy
company of buffalo hunters, whose Jan. 1, 1789, Windham County, Vermont
duty should be to hunt as the pio- — July 4, 1872, Salt Lake City
neers proceeded on their journey.
It was ascertained that there were
eight horses in the company which were not Edson Whipple, Barabas L. Adams, Benjamin
attached to teams, and so eight men were se- F. Steward, Return Jackson Redden, and Eric
lected to hunt on horseback, namely: Thomas Glines. It was also decided that the Twelve
Woolsey, Thomas Brown, John Brown, Orrin should have the privilege of hunting whenev-
Porter Rockwell, John S. Higbee, Joseph er they desired to do so. After some remarks
Matthews, and two others. Next, 11 men were in regard to having caution in chasing the wild
selected to hunt on foot, namely: John Peck, buffalo, etc, the company was dismissed.
Phineas H. Young, Tarlton Lewis, Joseph
Hancock, Edmund Ellsworth, Roswell Stevens,
22
Day 22 • Monday, April 26
Early in the morning, before the
break of day, two Indians creeping
upon hands and knees, approached
the pioneer camp, undoubtedly for the
purpose of stealing horses. They got
within three rods of the guard before
they were discovered. They guard at
first thought them to be wolves and
snapped their guns at them. This
caused the Indians to rise up and run,
when two of the guards fired at them;
four other Indians then arose out of
the grass, making six in all. The bugle
was sounded and all the brethren arose
hurriedly and seized their arms, not
knowing but what a large party of Indi-
ans was about to attack them. But the
first fire of the guards and the sound of
the bugle seemed to be sufficient to frighten
the savages away. During the excitement all
the men were found at their posts under their
respective commanders of tens and continued
on guard until sunrise.
One of the brethren who seemed to possess
some knowledge of such matters pronounced
the tracks to be those of the Sioux Indians,
instead of the Pawnees.
About 5 o’clock in the morning orders
were given for the brethren to assemble for
prayers by the tens instead of two in each
wagon, which was done. President Young told
William Clayton that he wanted him to assist
Brother Bullock in keeping minutes, as soon
as his health would permit because the latter
was busy, having to take care of a team and
attend to other chores.
The pioneers resumed their journey at 8:15
a.m, the horse teams leading out and the ox
teams following, making an entire new road
on the south side of Loup Fork. President
Young, Heber C. Kimbal, George A. Smith,
Amasa M. Lyman and others went ahead on
horseback to point out the road. The horse
teams traveling ahead broke the course grass
so that it would not hurt the feet of the oxen
which followed.
The company traveled over a prairie
covered with dried grass where there were
a great many prairie daisies, both blue and
white, scattered about, and had to cross many
sloughs and small ridges. Only a few stunted,
scrubby trees were to be seen on the margin
of the river.
After traveling about seven miles the com-
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Map showing the line of march across the plains to Utah
pany halted at 11:30 a.m. to rest and feed their
animals, by one of the sloughs in which there
were small fish in abundance.
The journey was continued at 1:45 p.m.
by traveling seven or eight miles farther.
During the afternoon the company crossed
two soughs or soft places, which were the
first places of that kind encountered by the
pioneers since they left Winter Quarters. The
country, at this place, was more hilly on the
north side than on the south side of the river
(Loup Fork), and the brethren had to make a
new road all day. About 4:30 p.m. the pioneers
passed within a short distance of a ruined
Indian village on the south side of the river.
During the afternoon they crossed about a
hundred trails leading to the river. In some
places from ten to thirty such trails were seen
close together. These trails were partly made
by buffaloes and partly by the Indians.
After traveling 15 miles during the day, the
pioneers formed their evening encampment
at 6 p.m. on the east bank of a small creek
(Sand Creek), with a clear stream of water and
a gravelly bottom. The course of travel during
he day had been about southwest, or from ten
to twenty degrees west of south, mostly over a
sandy desert covered in places with dry grass.
About a mile back from the evening
encampment the brethren visited the ruins
of the Indian village which they had passed
during the afternoon. It was situated on a
high bench of land on the banks of the river.
The houses or lodges in this village were
all down, and there was no appearance of
timber left. The entrances to the lodges all
faced southeast, the same as those back at the
other village on the opposite side of the river.
Evidently there had been a garden around the
village, as the land had been broken and bore
evidence of cultivation.
Just as dust and alarm was sent through
the camp that Indians had crawled up to the
encampment and that two horses, belong-
ing to Willard Richards and Jesse C. Little,
respectively, were gone. The lost horses were
good animals and the owners were naturally
distressed at the loss. The brethren who first
started in pursuit were unsuccessful in over-
taking the Indians. President Young, Elder
Heber C. Kimball, Amasa M. Lyman, Thomas
Grover, Joseph Matthews, Luke S. Johnson,
John Brown, and about half a dozen others
mounted their horses and went in pursuit,
but after traveling some distance they also
returned unsuccessful at 10:30 p.m. This
incident proved the necessity of the pioneers
taking better care of their animals.
Early in the day, Ezra T. Benson discovered
that one of the iron axles of his wagon was
broken. He shifted the load in the wagons so
that there should be no weight on the broken
part and in this way traveled all day. In the
evening the wagon was unloaded, the axle
taken off, Thomas Tanner’s forge set up and
the axle welded and fixed ready to put to the
wagon again. This work was done in the short
space of one hour after the encampment had
been formed, the welding being done by Burr
Frost.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 23 • Tuesday, April 27
The morning was fine and pleasant in the
pioneer camp. At 7:45 a.m. the wagons com-
menced moving, the horses teams first, then
the second division of ox teams, and lastly
the first division of ox teams, and traveled 12
miles nearly south, the design being to go to
the main branch of the Platte River.
Soon after starting, the pioneers crossed
Sand Creek and then some divided ridges or
hills. They pursued their journey next over
some sand ridges, where not a tree could be
seen, and at length they were gladdened by
the opportunity of making a halt at 2:15 p.m.
in a bottom where there was plenty of green
grass. Here the brethren dug three wells in
which they found water, but it had a very
copperas-like taste. The journey this forenoon
led the company through a rolling and uneven
country and also sandy and dry.
After traveling and making a new road
about four miles through dead shrub, where
the grass had been burned off, they came to
some good grass, where they found quanti-
ties of buffalo dung, which proved that these
animals were not far away.
President Young and Elder Kimball
discovered a dog town inhabited by many
prairie dogs. In one hole they noticed a large
rattlesnake and around the holes may small
owls, which seemed to correspond with what
many travelers previously had asserted, that
prairie dogs, rattlesnakes, and owls all live in
the same hole together.
The weather was not, with a nice west wind
blowing, but so dry that it parched the lips of
the travelers.
After traveling 12 miles the company halted
for noon on an elevated piece of land where
the pioneers had a good view of the Platte
River in the distance. This camping place was,
according to Orson Pratt’s observations, at
latitude 40 degrees 9 minutes and 20 seconds,
about halfway between Loup Fork and the
Platte, or about sixteen miles southwest from
the noon halt of the previous day.
At 3:15 p.m. the teams began to move
again. Just as they started, Wilford Woodruff,
John Brown, and Roswell Sevens saw two an-
telope before them in a valley. Brother Brown
fired first and almost immediately afterwards
Wilford Woodruff and another of the brethren
fired. This was the first antelope the pioneers
had killed on the journey.
After the company had traveled about two
miles, some of the ox teams gave out and had
to stop to feed. The rest of the teams went
on until they found a small stream of water
(Prairie Creek) in a place where the grass was
green, so they stopped at 5:30 p.m. and made
their night’s encampment, having traveled
about four miles in a southern direction in the
afternoon and 16 miles during the day.
Luke S. Johnson shot a large rattlesnake,
23
which he brought into camp to ex-
tract oil from. Roswell Stevens killed
a hare. Soon after camp had been
made a heavy windstorm of thunder
and lightning and a little rain broke
loose upon the company. It lasted
about an hour.
About 6:30 p.m. Orrin Porter
Rockwell, Joseph Matthews, John El-
dredge, and Thomas Brown returned
from hunting the two horses which
had been lost the previous day.
They reported that they went back
to within two miles of where the
pioneers had camped on Saturday
night and, looking off toward the
river, they saw something move in
the grass at the foot of a high knoll.
They proceeded toward it, thinking
it was a wolf, and when within 12 or Bishop Jacob Weiler
14 rods, Porter Rockwell stopped to
shoot at the supposed wolf. The mo- March 14, 1808, Lancaster County,
ment he elevated his rifle 15 Indians Pennsylvania — March 24, 1896,
sprang to their feet, all naked except Salt Lake City
a breechcloth, and all armed with
bows and arrows. Each man had a rifle flung refrained from risking the attempt.
on his back and his bow strung tight in his The brethren had been exposed to great
hand with about twenty arrows. danger, as there were only four of them
The Indians advanced toward the brethren, against 15 Indians, but got safely back to
who motioned for them to stop, while they, camp.
at the same time, held their rifles and pistols About the same time that the brethren
ready for action. When the Indians saw this returned, a rifle went off by accident in John
they began to shout, “Bacco! Bacco!” The Brown’s wagon. The ball went through a
brethren told them they had no tobacco. bag of clothes which was set on fire, passed
One of the Indians approached close to through the wagon and broke the foreleg of
Joseph Matthew’s horse, pretending to shake a fine mare belonging to Stephen Markham.
hands, but with his eye on the horse’s bridle. The bone was entirely severed. This make
When nearly within reach of the bride, Broth- four of the best horses lost by the pioneers
er Brown cocked his pistol and pointed it at within the past four days, but the last accident
the Indian, shouting at the same time that if was by far the most painful, as it broke up
he did not leave he would kill him. Seeing this, Brother Markham’s team.
the Indian retreated. After the evening’s encampment was made,
The Indians made signs for the brethren President Young and others went back with
to come lower down the river, but instead several horses and mules to assist the ox
they turned their horses toward their own teams which had nearly given out during the
camp, thinking it unsafe to go near the timber, afternoon drive, and returned with them to
where they expected that more Indians lay in camp at 6:30 p.m.
ambush. Jacob Weiler of the pioneer band was born
When the brethren turned to go back the in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, March 14,
Indians fired six shots at them with their rifles 1808, and died in Salt Lake City, March 24,
and the brethren immediately faced about, al- 1896. He was one who never pushed himself
though the balls were whizzing around them, forward in any way, but at the same time was
at which the savages fled toward the below. ever in the front rank in the march across
The brethren, however, did not shoot. the plains, and his counsel was a great help
They saw the tracks of the missing horses. to the leaders. Bishop Weiler was in his day
At one place they discovered that one of the one of the sturdiest farmers in the Valley, and
animals had been tied up in a willow bed and he thoroughly understood the method to be
had pawed away the earth some six inches pursued in irrigation, which in time became
deep. The brethren returned to camp satisfied the chief work of the settlers. He was also
that the Pawnees had possession of them and prominent in local church circles, being bish-
no doubt intended to have taken the horses op of the Third Ward in Salt Lake City, and
upon which the brethren rode; but as the just before his death he was given patriarchal
savages met with such a stern reception, they honors.
24
Day 24 • Wednesday, April 28
Pioneer Camp on Prairie Creek. The wind
was blowing strong from the northeast, which
made it much cooler. With the passing of each
day the weather became more springlike As
the days lengthened and the warm sun shone
on the camps of the pioneers, their hearts
became lighter and the plains resounded with
the words of command to the horses or oxen,
given in a cheery tone of voice which denoted
the good spirits of those in the caravan.
In the evening after the chores were done,
the pioneers would assemble around the
campfire and Hans C. Hansen’s violin would
often be heard in the still night air, while a
vocal selection would add to the merriment
of the circle about the fire. There was at all
times more or less sociability in the camp, but
excessive levity was frowned upon severely,
and strict orders had been given that at not
time were the campers to overstep the bounds
by caring their evening’s fun too far, and at the
bugle call at 9 p.m., it was the invariable rule
for all the groups scanner about the camp to
retire to their own wagons.
Each day’s mileage was cut off from the dis-
tance they had to travel, the pioneers became
more and more interested in the trip, and
each day’s coming was eagerly looked forward
to, and when camp was made at night it was
the knowledge that they were many miles
nearer to “the promised land.”
There were no Indians about, but many
wolves and antelope. No buffalo had yet been
seen. Orders were given in the morning for no
man to leave the wagons except the hunters.
The pioneers left a small board giving
particulars of the camp to others who might
follow after them. The brethren had to make
a new road to the small creek (Prairie Creek)
near which they were camped. This occupied
the time until about 9 a.m. The company then
proceeded onward, President Young, Heber
C. Kimball, and others going ahead to select
a good road, while the rest were crossing the
creek.
Luke S. Johnson shot the horse which had
had its leg broken the previous evening. The
horse belonged to Brother Lewis Barney, but
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
was used in Markham’s team. It was
a good horse, but it was conclud-
ed it was better to shoot her than
leave her alone to the mercy of the
Indians.
The course of the company for
the first seven miles was a little east
of south over a very level prairie
which was green with grass varying
in size from one to six inches high
as far as the eye could reach in all
directions, without any timber or
other objects to obscure the view,
except the timber on Grand Island
ahead. Here the travelers noted the
latest wild onions growing which
they had ever seen.
After traveling about seven
miles, the company turned south-
west, being now within a mile of
the north channel of the Platte. Al-
though making an entire new track
and opposite Grand Island, the road
was extremely dusty and a strong Jesse Carter Little
wind blew the dust into the wagons Sept. 26, 1815, Belmont, Maine
so that everything was covered
— Dec. 26, 1893, Salt Lake City
with it. After traveling about eleven
miles and crossing Silver Creek, a
halt was made at 2:30 p.m. to feed. Near this a snake which he had killed the day before.
camping place there was considerable timber. The reptile measured about four feet in length
At 4 p.m. the teams were again on the move and several inches in circumference. The rat-
and traveled until 6 p.m., when an encamp- tlesnake was preparing to spring when Luke
ment was made for the night about a quarter so unceremoniously prevented it by shooting
of a mile from the timber, or near the point him. The oil was taken out and rubbed on
where Wood River empties into the north Zebedee Cortrin’s back leg which did it a great
channel of the Platte. At this place there was deal of good.
plenty of grass for the stock. A notable figure in the journey west of the
The distance traveled during the afternoon pioneers of Utah was Jesse C. Little, who died
was about four miles, or during the day, 15 in Salt Lake City, December 26, 1893, honored
miles. The pioneers rejoiced in having clear by all who knew him. He was born in Belmont,
and good cool water to drink. The evening was Waldo County, Maine, September 26, 1815.
cloudy and cool. The brethren had antelope Mr. Little was one of the most frequently
for supper and retired early. They were now quoted of the pioneers, which attests more
186 miles from Winter Quarters. The location strongly than anything else the prominent
of the camp was near the present site of Grand part he played in that great border drama of
Island, Nebraska. eighty-seven years ago.
In the evening Luke S. Johnson gave
Thomas Bullock a bunch of rattles taken from
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 25 • Thursday, April 29
The weather was cool in the pioneer camp,
with a southwest wind blowing. The pioneers
arose at the sound of bugle and the brethren
proceeded at once to hitch up their teams
and remove to where they could get better
feed. At 5 a.m. the wagons began to move out
without feeding the horses, and after traveling
about three miles a halt was made at 6:30 for
breakfast and to feed the animals on Grand
Island, where rushes and cottonwoods grew
in abundance.
After stopping for about an hour, the
company started again at 8:30 a.m., and after
traveling two miles farther the pioneers found
themselves on a pretty stream containing
good water (Wood River) about ten feet wide
on an average, but at the fording place only
about a rod wide. The crossing of this stream
took about an hour. The company then trav-
eled on a tableland, or prairie, gently ascend-
ing for four or five miles, but very even and
good traveling. At 1 o’clock a stop was made
beside a small lake to rest and feed teams,
after traveling about ten miles. The wind was
blowing strongly from the south.
One of Orson Pratt’s horses was very sick.
He had lain down several times in the harness
during the forenoon travel. This was regarded
in a most serious light, for already four
horses had been lost in one way or another.
Still greater was the annoyance caused the
pioneers by the unbroken sweep of parching
winds across the arid plains in its bad effect
upon the wagons and, in fact, all the wood-
work of the camp equipment, which began to
warp and crack in a manner portending most
serious results.
The noon halt was at latitude 40 degrees, 48
minutes, 52 seconds, near Wood River, on the
north bank of the Platte, about 32 miles from
the noon halt on the 27th.
At 2:30 p.m. the journey was resumed and
the company traveled over a tolerably level
prairie for a distance of about eight miles in a
southwesterly direction until 6:30 p.m., when
the evening encampment was made close to
Grand Island, where there was an abundance
of rushes for the cattle. The wind was blowing
from the southwest until sundown, when it
turned to the northeast and blew quite cold
and boisterous. The clouds of dust were
almost sufficient to suffocate both men and
beasts. Many antelope were seen. During the
day they had also seen fruit trees in bloom
and cottonwood and other trees in leaf.
The hunters, accompanied by Wilford
Woodruff, went out and saw about 30 ante-
lope and eight deer. Most of the animals went
toward Wood River, which the pioneers had
forded in the morning. The hundred shot
four geese, Brother Woodruff shooting two of
them. He also wounded a deer, but it got away.
During the day the pioneers, after crossing
Pioneer Camp at Wood River
(After the original drawing by Fred Piercy, 1853)
Wood River, traveled westward on a road
about an equal distance between said river
and the north branch or channel of Grand
Island. The day’s journey was about 18 miles.
Erastus Snow describes Wood River as a
beautiful stream with gravelly bottom, slightly
skirted with timber and running parallel with
Grand Island for a distance of about 75 miles.
Grand Island at this point, was covered with
rushes and timber, which were also found on
the bottom of all these western streams.
Upon resuming the journey in the after-
noon, some of the brethren set fire to the
dry grass to burn it, so that those who might
follow after would have green grass for their
cattle.
Near the night camp, which was 204 miles
from Winter Quarters, was found a soda or
saleratus marsh, with an abundance of rushes
for the cattle. At night the sick horse of Orson
Pratt’s team had grown much better, and the
day ended without incident or accident.
It was the fifteenth day since the final
departure from Winter Quarters, but in that
short space of time the pioneers had experi-
enced so many annoyances and had run into
such great danger at times, that they were be-
ginning to fully realize the hardships of such
an undertaking, and while some few began
to weaken or lose the first enthusiasm which
surrounded the trip, the greater portion of
the band faced the dangers of the future and
endeavored in every way to make more rigid
rules for the discipline of the company, and all
the while trying to keep up the interest of the
men who were prone to become discouraged
when things began to go wrong.
It was here that the power of Brigham
25
Young first began to assert itself. He knew
every movement, every word of complaint
that arose among his followers, but as yet had
given no outward sign of such knowledge, but
he constantly watched the men, and where
any dissension or grumbling arose he endeav-
ored to smooth things over, and when danger
threatened he was always to the front reassur-
ing his men. In this he was ably seconded by
the Quorum of the Twelve Apostles and others
who were ever at his right hand in the effort to
safely conduct the pioneers across the plains.
But Indians, accidents, lost animals and
poor food were the least of the trials the
leaders had to put up with. There were some
malcontents among the 143 pioneers, and it
was to prevent the sowing of pernicious seed
that the leader and his coworkers were unit-
ing their efforts and as the recital progresses it
will be seen how well they succeeded.
Wood River, which was forded by the pio-
neers on this day, 87 years ago, in after years
became a noted landmark and camping place
for those who followed the tide of emigra-
tion to Utah as well as to the gold diggings of
California in the days of ‘49. It was a pretty
spot, and became a permanent camp for
the Mormon people in all their subsequent
journeys. Wood River is now a station on the
Union Pacific Railroad, and as the pioneer
later crossed the bridge over the stream going
“back to the states” in a place vestibuled train,
he could look from the car window and see
the spot where he camped one afternoon or
evening, and his thought would then revert
from the brilliancy of the present back to the
misty past with all its adventures, pleasures
and pain.
26
Day 26 • Friday, April 30
The pioneer camp was awakened at 5:30 a.m.
A cold north wind was blowing, but otherwise
the day was clear. During the night the teams
had filled themselves with rushes. The start was
made at 6:40 a.m. William Clayton, who went
ahead on foot, states that the prairie was level
and green with grass. The pioneers traveled on
the first bench about three-quarters of a mile
from the timber on Grand Island.
Several wild geese were seen on the prairie,
but no buffaloes seemed to have been on the
ground recently. There were immense patches of
blue grass and also numerous patches of buffalo
grass, which grew very short, but thick, on the
ground; it grows somewhat curly like the hair on
a buffalo and much resembling it in color.
About a mile from the previous night’s
encampment the pioneers passed a place where
the Indians apparently had camped during their
late hunt. The brethren judged that they must
have been very numerous, as their camp had
covered several acres of ground.
President Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball,
and Amasa M. Lyman went ahead on horseback
to hunt out the road. For some distance the com-
pany had followed an Indian trail, but that was
now so grown over with weeds and so old that it
was scarcely discernible.
The wind blew strong from the north and the
dust raised thereby was very troublesome. The
atmosphere was dull and cloudy. The course
traveled was nearly west.
At 11:30 a.m. the company stopped to feed
beside a small creek of clear, good water, about
a mile from Grand Island, having traveled about
eight miles during the forenoon. The grass along
this creek, which emptied into the Platte, was
long and plentiful.
At noon Orson Pratt took an observation on
the north bank of the Platte or 17 miles from the
noon halt on the previous day, and found the
latitude to be 40 degrees 42 minutes 37 seconds.
At 1:20 p.m. the wagons moved again while
the wind blew from the northwest and clouds of
dust arose from the wagon wheels. The journey
was continued in a southwesterly direction
along a level prairie some distance from the
river and the company turned off to camp under
a bench about 5 p.m. after traveling about eight
or nine miles from the noon encampment, or
during the day, 17 miles. The camp was formed
at this place because there was a soft bottom
between the camping place and the river which
made it expedient for the brethren to camp on
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
the background, although without
wood or water.
In forming the evening encamp-
ment the wagons were placed in an
imperfect circle in such a way as to
have all the wagon mouths turned
from the wind. It took nearly an
hour to form the encampment. The
weather was so cold that every man
needed his overcoat and a buffalo
robe. In this manner they managed
to keep themselves warm. Some of
them had brought a little wood with
them, but others had to be satisfied
with a cold supper and still others
had little or nothing to eat, as they
had no bread cooked. Some of the
company found a good substitute
for wood in the dried buffalo dung
which lay plentifully upon the
ground and made a good fire when
properly managed. George Woodward
Heber C. Kimball invented a new
way of building a fire to cook on and Sept. 9, 1817, Monmouth, New Jersey
which was well adapted in the use of — Dec. 18, 1903, St. George, Utah
this kind of fuel. He dug a hole in the
ground about eight inches deep, fif-
teen inches long and eight inches wide; at each oneers of Utah. He still lived in St. George, Utah,
end of the hole he dug another about the same in 1897, and wrote to the Tribune an interesting
dimensions as the first, leaving about three letter dealing with the journey across the plains.
inches of earth standing between the middle and Mr. Woodward was born in Monmouth County,
the two end holde. Through these partitions he New Jersey, September 9, 1817, and died
made a hole about three inches in diameter to December 17, 1903, in St. George. He was one of
serve as a draught. In the bottom of the middle the prominent men of St. George, a prosperous
hole the fire and fuel were placed and across the town in the extreme southwest corner of the
top were set two wagon hammers, upon which state.
pots and pans were placed so that the fire could Mr. Woodward was with the wagons that
have free circulation underneath. By this meth- made the very first start for the mountains on
od much cooking was done with very little fuel. April 5. He returned to conference at Winter
Luke S. Johnson, in building his fire, trans- Quarters, and on April 7 he made the second
formed a buffalo skull into a chimney in such a start and went to the Elkhorn camp. In his
way that the smoke passed through two holes personal reminiscences he says: “The artillery
between the horns, thus combining the useful consisted of one cannon, rigged up like a wagon,
with the ludicrous. with a span of horses and a grain box. Colonel
To save the trouble of carrying water so far Markham was in charge and was driving. He
(the camp being about a mile from the river), called me to assist him. There also was a night
three wells were dug about four feet deep from guard appointed, and I was one of them, having
which good water was obtained. to stand guard every night for half of the night.”
Brother Hans C. Hansen played a little on his Mr. Woodward’s letter contains many
violin and some of the brethren danced, before valuable items of interest concerning the great
going to bed, to warm themselves. Some tracks journey which are included in the narrative in
were seen which proved that buffaloes, with future recitals.
their calves, had passed quite recently.
George Woodward was one of the original pi-
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 27 • Saturday, May 1
This Saturday morning dawned
cold and windy in the pioneer camp.
Daylight was greeted with delight by the
campers, for the night had, indeed, been
a trying one and, inasmuch as there was
but little grass for the cattle near the
camping ground, the pioneers resumed
the journey about 5:30 a.m. and trav-
eled six miles before breakfast.
Soon after starting, three buffaloes
were seen grazing on the bluffs north
of Grand Island. They were seven or
eight miles away, but could be plainly
seen with the spyglass. In an instant
Porter Rockwell, Thomas Brown, and
Luke S. Johnson were in the saddle and
riding full tilt after the animals. Shortly
afterward another herd of buffaloes
was seen on the bluffs to the northwest.
With their glasses, William Clayton
counted 72, while Orson Pratt counted
74. Another party was dispatched with
great haste, and by this time the camp was all
excited.
A halt was made at 8:15 a.m. on the prairie,
close to Grand Island for the purpose of graz-
ing the animals and cooking breakfast, after
which the bulk of the pioneers remained in
camp until 10:15 a.m., those in camp watch-
ing the hunters who had gone after the last
herd of buffaloes. William Clayton reported,
as he followed the movements of hunters and
animals through his glass, that the buffaloes
had run away over the hill out of sight.
After resuming the journey at 10:15 a.m.,
the pioneers with the wagons traveled four
miles to a small lake nearby, where they
stopped to take lunch. En route, they were
joined by Porter Rockwell and his compan-
ions, who returned from an unsuccessful
chase after the first herd, which had joined
the second and which John S. Higbee and
Thomas Woolsey were chasing with equally
bad luck.
But now a third and larger herd was seen,
and President Young named 11 men to mount
and give chase. The wagon train moved slowly
along, all the men left in the party were deeply
interested in the hunt, and the excitement
ran high. The hunters were soon enveloped
by a cloud of dust, caused by the avalanche of
moving buffaloes. One of the dogs had scared
up an antelope which ran directly toward
the herd of frightened and fast retreating
animals. They scattered in every direction,
and the hunters were in hot pursuit. Heber
C. Kimball enthusiastically joined in the hunt
and a large cow was killed by him, after a most
exhilarating chase. Mr. Kimball had fired over
his horse’s shoulder and the horse, becoming
frightened, ran away and nearly threw the rid-
er, but was checked in his mad career before
any damage was done.
On May Day They Hunted Buffalo
(Drawn from a sketch made by Fred Piercy, English artist)
At this point, those in the camp who were
watching the und with spyglasses noticed
that some of the buffaloes had separated and
were wildly galloping directly toward the
wagon train, and, seeing this, President Young
ordered a halt and had the wagons drawn
together, lest the beasts in their fury should
dash into the long column.
Some of the foot hunters started from camp
of their own accord and joined in the chase,
now grown into a most exciting hunt. Porter
Rockwell, hearing that a buffalo’s forehead
would resist a ball, got a good chance and
fired at one, hitting the animal fairly in the
from of his head, but it had no effect other
than to raise some smoke and dust, and
caused a fine-looking bull to shake his head in
a perfect frenzy of anger. Later on during the
hunt John S. Higbee and John Pack killed the
same animal.
The chase lasted from nearly 1 to 4 p.m.,
and when the wagons brought in the dead
animals, it was found that in all 10 had been
killed. The fresh meat was distributed equally,
and heartily relished by all.
Considerable alarm was caused by the
prolonged absence of Joseph Hancock. He had
started to hunt the buffaloes when the first
herd was seen early in the morning, and did
not return that night.
Camp was formed at 6:30 p.m. near a small
lake above the head of Grand Island, about
two miles east of the point where Elm Creek
empties into the Platte. During the day 18
miles had been made, 97 miles had been cov-
ered in the week, and the pioneers were now
236 miles from the Missouri River.
Soon after camping and distributing the
meat, a hearty supper was enjoyed, and
shortly afterward the pioneers retired to their
wagons for the night, thoroughly tired out
27
after the fatigue and excitement of the day.
May Day, 87 years ago, was a memorable
one to the pioneers of Utah. Any one of them
who had made that historic trip across the
plains in 1847 was known in after life when
recounting their experience, to state without
hesitation that no May Day ever came to them
in after years that brought with it such varied
interest and excitement. It was the introduc-
tion of the pioneers to wild buffaloes, and at
the first sight of them the pioneer camp was
all excitement, for this was an experience one
and all had been eagerly looking forward to,
hunting the greatest of animals inhabiting
the far western country. All of the accounts
written of the trip agree upon the main points
of the remarkable May Day hunt, and the pi-
oneers who participated in it retained a vivid
memory of the same as long as they lived.
As another instance of the experiences of
the pioneers, it may be mentioned that soon
after the hunters had started out at noon the
pioneers traveling with wagons came to a long
range of dog towns, and saw many little prai-
rie dogs playing around their holes. The extent
of this string of dog towns seemed to be about
five miles and in some places nearly two miles
broad; and it was judged that there were thou-
sands of these little creatures. They appeared
to be about as long as a common gray squirrel,
but with a larger body and chubbed head. The
tail was short, resembling that of a dog, and
the color light brown. Their bark resembled
the chirp of an English throstle and something
like a chirp of squirrel. They appeared to live
on grass, as the grass was all eaten off close
to the ground throughout the extent of their
dog town, and the ground looked naked and
barren as a desert. Some of the brethren shot
at the dogs, with no result.
28
Day 28 • Sunday, May 2
The morning was fine, but cold, in the pioneer
camp. Half an inch of ice formed on the water.
During the night a buffalo and calf had come near
the camp and the guard had wounded the calf in
the hind leg; it was caught alive, but afterward
killed.
At 6 a.m. the return of Joseph Hancock was
hailed with delight. He had killed a buffalo over
the bluff behind the camp and had to stay with it
all night to protect the carcass from the wolves
which frequented the country. He made a fire
and scattered a little powder around his buffalo
to keep off the wolves. Three of these, smelling
the blood, visited him during the night, but were
awed by the fire. Brother Hancock, however, shot
one of them and the rest ran away. After fencing
his game with stakes he started for the camp,
but could not find it. He therefore lay down on
the prairie for the night and came to camp in the
morning, where all were very glad to see him safe.
After Brother Hancock had eaten breakfast he
started out in company with four or five others
to bring in the meat on horseback, as no wagons
could get over the bluffs to it. They found that the
wolves had devoured much of it, but the balance
the brethren brought along with them into camp.
On the way back to camp they added two antelope
to the supply of fresh meat. This made altogether
12 buffaloes which the hunters killed ino one day,
namely, five large ones and seven calves, which
was considered a very good showing, especially
as the hunters were nearly all strangers to that
mode of hunting. Only a few of them had ever
seen a wild buffalo before.
The pioneers then made themselves busy
cutting up the buffalo meat into strips and partly
drying it over the fire to preserve it for future
use. The hides were cut up on ropes and tongues
stretched with stakes. The hair on the head of the
bulls was about a foot long and the hide about
one inch thick.
About 11 a.m. President Young and some
others went three or four miles ahead to search
for a better camping place. They returned about 2
p.m. and ate dinner.
At noon Professor Orson Pratt took an obser-
vation for the latitude and found that the camp
was at latitude 40 degrees 41 minutes 42 seconds,
near the head of Grand Island. This agreed with
John C. Fremont’s observations, or within two
miles of his deductions, and Fremont’s camp was
on the south side of the river, two miles south of
the pioneer encampment.
As it was Sunday, no move was made in the
forenoon, but prayers were held in various wag-
ons. In the afternoon, however, it was found that
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
the grass had all been eaten off by the
stock and it was decided to move on,
which was done, a fine camping place
being located two miles westward.
At 3:15 p.m. the teams were all
hitched up and started. Soon the
ravine was crossed; then the company
traveled through another prairie dog
town and, after journeying about
two miles, a camp was formed at the
mouth of a small creek (Elm Creek),
at the place where it empties into the
Platte river. Here the pioneers found
plenty of good water and feed for the
cattle. This place was so favorable that
it was decided to lay over on Monday
and some needed repairs were made
to the wagons and equipment by the
blacksmiths. In this locality the prairie
had been set on fire by the Indians
within two miles of the camp and was
burning rapidly over a large region of
the country.
By this time the weather was more John S. Gleason
temperate and the wind had ceased
to blow. President Young, Heber C. Jan. 13, 1819, Livonia, New York —
Kimball and others went out to look Dec. 24, 1904, Pleasant Grove, Utah
for a crossing over the little lake and
to point out the road ahead. On their
way they fell in with a buffalo cow and calf and Edmond Ellsworth shot a prairie dog and
chased them for some distance in order to get a brought it into camp.
good view of them, but not to kill them. Considerable interest was manifested around
On their return the president ordered that the the big campfire Sunday night by the head of the
pioneers should tarry at this camping place the largest buffalo being exhibited. It was the first
next day and have some blacksmith work done, time that many of the pioneers had seen the hide
and possibly do some more hunting. All hands and hair of these noted animals and the hide of
were employed in putting up racks upon which the forehead, with the long, shaggy hair, was an
to dry the meat. The pioneers remained in camp especial mark of interest. Many buffaloes were
on the creek, engaged in drying meat, and to rest seen all day Sunday, but orders were given not to
themselves and teams. hunt during the day.
The evening encampment was made about John Streater Gleason of Pleasant Grove was
4 p.m. near a long lake of shallow, clear water, one of the first band of Utah pioneers. He was
close to the banks of the Platte. This lake or pond born in Livonia, Livingston County, New York,
was about three rods wide and connected with January 13, 1819, and died December 24, 1904,
the Platte River, which at this point appeared to in Pleasant Grove. On the pioneer journey he was
be about two miles wide, but very shallow and a member of the fourteenth ten in the organiza-
muddy. There was no timber at this point, but tion and was a popular member of the company,
plenty of grass, most of which was the previous being at the time a young man of 28 years of age.
year’s growth. Later on in the trip, when the pioneers came to
Soon after camping in the evening a herd of Emigration Camp, Mr. Gleason was the first to
buffalo came from the bluffs to the river to drink advocate the clearing out of the dense growth
within two miles of the pioneer encampment and of brush and the making of a permanent road
then returned to the bluffs. Some of the brethren for those who were to follow in subsequent
were anxious to go after them, but as it was emigrations.
Sunday, President Young thought it best to wait
until the next day.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 29 • Monday, May 3
During the night there had been a sharp
frost in the pioneer camp, but the son rose
with a gentle breeze from the west.
About 7 a.m. a large wolf passed the camp.
The cannon was fired twice in the morning to
show the Indians that the camp was awake.
Orders were given for 20 men to go out
hunting and 15 to go and search out a road
and another camping place, while some were
appointed to watch the cattle, and all the
rest were ordered to stay in camp. The cattle,
which were poor and much fatigued, were
driven out and sentries placed to watch them.
The hunters and others started on their jour-
neys, while the remainder attended to wash-
ing, drying meat, etc. Thomas Tanner and
James Davenport set up their forges, bellows
and anvils to repair wagons, shoe animals, etc.
President Young and Willard Richards were
in council in the latter’s wagon. At this time
it became cloudy and a gentle shower of rain
visited the camp at 12:30 p.m.
At 1:20 p.m. the exploring party returned
and reported that about ten or twelve miles
off a drove of antelope galloped by. When
Brother William A. Empey went around to
head them off, one of them started toward the
river. In turning to look down a ravine after
the animal, Brother Empey saw a war party of
Indians, about 200 or 300 in number, some of
them being mounted on their horses and the
remainder ready to mount. Brother Empey
immediately wheeled his horse, galloped to
his brethren, who then retraced their steps to
camp. On their arrival there and giving their
report, President Young called the men to-
gether, ordered them to gather up their horses
and start out to warn the hunters.
In about half an hour 23 men started out
on this expedition. Before they reached the
bluffs, which were about four miles from
camp, some of the hunters were returning,
having seen only one buffalo during the day.
In a little while all of the hunters were notified
and on their way back. They arrived in camp
about 6 p.m., or about sunset, having killed
three antelope, and the horsemen who went
29
after them had got two buffalo
calves which were all brought in.
They had taken two wagons with
them to bring in the meat and were
well armed.
Thus the day was passed
without accident. The weather had
been fine, but cool and cloudy,
with occasionally a few drops of
rain. A number of wagon tires had
been set and other blacksmithing
done, besides washing, drying
meat, etc. The cannon was unlim-
bered at night and prepared for
action, in case it should be needed.
Until then the wheels bearing the
cannon had been encumbered
with a wagon bed and other things.
These were now removed, and it
was ordered that henceforth the
cannon should be hauled in the
rear of the company, ready for
immediate use, and the captain,
Thomas Tanner, with his artillery
Albert Carrington
men, should accompany it. Jan. 8, 1813, Royalton, Vermont
Erastus Snow was directed — Sept. 19, 1889, Salt Lake City
by Colonel Markham to take 15
horsemen and go up the river
ten or fifteen miles to ascertain if there were City, September 19, 1889. He was a college
Indians in the neighborhood, and whether graduate, and therefore a valuable member of
their prairie fires, which seemed to sweep the the camp. For many years he was the private
whole country and which had reached within secretary to President Young, and in the
a mile of the pioneer encampment, had so far Church was prominently identified with the
destroyed the feed that the teams of the com- British Mission in later years. He was one of
pany could not be sustained. This company of the first to ascend Twin Peaks, August, 1847,
men went according to direction for about ten and in 1849 he headed the committee to draft
miles and found only here and there a patch a constitution for the state of Deseret. He was
of grass not burned, and fire still raging in made assessor and collector in the election of
different directions, and as far as they could state officers for the provisional government
see up the river, fresh fires and smoke were of the State of Deseret, and was editor of the
rising. William A. Empey went two or three Deseret News in 1854.
miles beyond where the others had halted and Mr. Carrington, being a surveyor, was an
reported on his return that he had seen a war assistant to Captain Stansbury in the latter’s
party of Indians. survey of the Great Salt Lake and vicinity in
Albert Carrington, one of the pioneers, was 1849, and did much work of this character
born in Royalton, Windsor County, Ver- during his life in the Salt Lake Valley.
mont, January 8, 1813, and died in Salt Lake
30
Day 30 • Tuesday, May 4
The morning was fine and cool in the
pioneer camp. A gentle breeze blew from the
southwest. The cannon was fired at 4 a.m.,
which awoke the entire camp. On rising, the
pioneers found that the frost had whitened
the grass. A heavy dew fell at sunrise and
dampened the shoes of the travelers. Several
horses strayed from the camp toward the east,
two of them going seven or eight miles, but
they were pursued by the brethren on horse-
back and brought back.
At 7:30 a.m. the brethren were called
together, when James Case, George W. Brown,
William Carter, Marcus B. Thorpe, Return
Jackson Redden, Carlos Murray, Albert
Carrington, John Y. Greene, Sidney Alvarus
Hanks, and Hark Lay volunteered to be the
sixth company of ten for night guard; Green
Flake and Oscar Crosby (two colored men)
were accepted to fill the places of John H.
Tippetts and another man in the sixth ten.
President Young then counseled the breth-
ren not to leave the camp 20 rods without
orders from their captains. He stated that the
camp had traveled to this point with the best
of feelings, and he now told them that all they
had to do was to find out what was right and
then do it.
The historians and clerks of the camp had
been so busy that the president had not as yet
seen a copy of the rules of the camp, which
should be read at least on Sunday. He wanted
to recollect that none must leave camp with-
out instructions from their captains, as the
Pawnees would steal the horses and use up
the pioneers, if they could. The instructions
given April 17 were read to the camp and all
were enjoined to obey them more strictly in
the future than they hitherto had done.
It was decided that the cannon be unloaded
and mounted upon another wagon, so that it
might always be ready for action. An addition
of 10 volunteers was made to the standing
guard, and it was ordered that all the horses
and mules should be tied inside the circle at
night and the cattle and cows be corralled out-
side within a few rods of the wagons. A guard
should be placed over the cattle when they
were turned out to graze. It was thought best
to travel with the wagons four abreast and the
cannon should go to the rear. The meeting
was then adjourned.
At 9 a.m. the wagons began moving and
passed over the lake or creek near its junction
with the river, at which place the creek was
about 10 or 12 feet wide.
After crossing the creek, a halt was made
until the cannon was put in condition and
brought over. The camp then moved off by
platoons in close regimental style, and first
company of five wagons abreast, the second
company next, and so throughout. The can-
non brought up the rear. After traveling about
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
half a mile the company again
stopped a little while, waiting for
some wagons which were behind to
come up.
While stopping, three wagons
were discovered on the opposite
side of the river, which at this point
was about two miles wide, and as
none of the pioneers was acquaint-
ed with the river, no one attempted
to cross it.
About 11 a.m. the company
continued their journey, the wagons
traveling five abreast, so as to be
better prepared for defense should
the Indians venture an attack. The
road led over a burned prairie and
across a slough, where the cattle
were watered.
After traveling about three
miles, the brethren saw one of the
traders, namely Charles Beaumont,
a Frenchman, wading over the river
toward them, so they halted to see Joseph S. Schofield
him. His object in crossing the river Aug. 2, 1809, Winchester County, New York —
was to ascertain who the pioneers March 8, 1875, Bellevue, Washington County,
were. Mr. Beaumont informed the
Utah
brethren that he and his company
were traders from Fort Laramie, and
that he himself had spent three years at that to let the teams feed on a small spot where the
fort and had not tasted bread for two years. fire had not douched the grass. Elsewhere the
Mr. Beaumont cheerfully agreed to carry let- grass had all been burned off within the past
ters to Winter Quarters for the pioneers, but few days by the Indians.
could not wait long. They were the first white The brethren were convinced that it would
men the pioneers had met on the journey. be advantageous for the pioneers to cross
Several letters were hastily written, and the river, as the Indians were burning up all
President Young directed Willard Richards to the grass on the side they were traveling, but
write a letter to the saints in Winter Quarters when they considered the situation of the next
addressed to John Smith or Alpheus Cutler. companies of Saints and the thousands of
A mail of 54 letters was quickly made up men, women, and children who would follow
and sent by Mr. Beaumont, who was going the pioneers; that the pioneers were making
to Sarpy’s Point, near Council Bluffs. In a new road over which these saints would
appreciation of his kindness, he was given follow, and as the later companies would be
bread, meat, sugar and coffee, for which he unable to cross the river when melting snow
was very thankful. It was with regret and a in the mountains would swell the rivers, it
spirit of homesickness that the pioneers saw was thought best to keep on the north side of
Beaumont depart. the river and brave burning prairies and other
Luke S. Johnson bought a buffalo robe from difficulties. President Young, therefore, made
Mr. Beaumont for about a pound and a half of a motion that the pioneers would keep on the
coffee, and another pioneer bought a similar north side of the Platte as far as Fort Laramie
robe for a pound of sugar. Brothers Woolsey, at least. The motion was carried unanimously.
John Brown, and John Peck accompanied Mr. The portrait appearing with today’s recital
Beaumont across the river to see the other is that of Joseph S. Schofield, one of the
traders. pioneers. He was a carpenter by trade, and in
The noon encampment was made at lati- the pioneer band was one of the drivers. After
tude 40 degrees, 44 minutes, and 53 seconds, coming to Utah he plied his trade in differ-
at a point seven miles above the head of ent parts of the country, and for this reason
Grand Island. removed to St. George. He was born August 2,
About 1 p.m. the bugle sounded for a march 1809, in Winchester County, New York, and
and the main company started twenty min- died in Bellevue, Washington County, March
utes later; traveled about four miles farther 8, 1875, having reached an advanced age and
and then halted at 3:30 p.m. to wait until the being held in high esteem by all who knew
brethren returned from the traders’ camp and him.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 31 • Wednesday, May 5
The morning was fine and pleasant in the
pioneer camp, with a gentle breeze from the
southwest. Some of the brethren were sick, the
change from salt to fresh meat having affected
them. Two small herds of buffalo were seen a
short distance from the camp and a guard had
to be placed over the cattle to prevent them
mixing with the buffalo.
The company broke camp at 7:30 a.m. and
traveled over a low, soft prairie, following the
general course of the Platte which here ran from
northwest to southeast. The pioneers crossed
several sloughs, one of them a very bad one,
and they had to bear to the north in order to
find a place to cross it. Beyond that crossing the
company found the ground very soft for about
a mile, and it became necessary to bear still
farther to the north. The feet of the horses cut
through the sod and the ground appeared wet
underneath, although there had been no rain
for some time.
At 11:30 a.m. the pioneers stopped to feed
their stock on a patch of unburned grass on
the prairie opposite an island in the Platte
River, having traveled about nine miles almost
due west while a very strong south wind was
blowing. There were no appearances of Indians
near, except that the prairies, which were still
burning ahead, were supposed to have been set
on fire by them.
While halting for noon, two buffalo bulls
approached the cattle within half a mile
from camp and Thomas Bullock and Thomas
Gover went out to look at them in their native
wildness. The animals allowed the brethren to
approach within 40 rods of them and some of
the men even rode up to within three rods of
one which was asleep, stopping to look at him
for some time. The animal soon awoke, shook
himself and leaped off. No attempt was made to
kill these animals, as the orders of the day were
not to kill anything which the brethren could
not carry into camp.
About 1 p.m. the pioneers continued their
journey and traveled until 3 p.m. when some
of the hunters came in, bringing a live buffalo
bull calf, which they intended to take to the
mountains with them, and also one which they
had killed. The brethren reported that John
Brown, Return Jackson Redden, John S. Higbee,
and Luke S. Johnson had each killed a calf.
The one killed by Brother Higbee had previ-
ously been shot by Amasa M. Lyman. Joseph
Matthews killed a cow and Elder Kimball, Orrin
31
Porter Rockwell, and John S. Higbee
chased the one brought in alive
until a dog seized it, and let it into
camp.
The “Revenue Cutter” was un-
loaded and sent after the cow and
calf which had been left about three
miles off. The company then trav-
eled on about an hour and found
the prairie ahead ablaze like a roar-
ing furnace. President Young and
Heber C. Kimball, who had been
ahead, returned, and thinking it un-
safe to risk the wagons near the fire,
ordered them back about a mile to
an island, where there would be
water for the teams and where the
company would be secure from the
fire and there camp for the night.
The prairies were all burned there
and the black ashes were flying John Greenleaf Holman
badly, causing the brethren to look
Oct. 18, 1828, Byron Center, New York
more like Indians than white folks.
However, after they washed them-
— Nov. 5, 1885, Rexburg, Idaho
selves, they were able to recognize
each other again.
There was some feed on the island and the to be covered to the valley of the Great Salt
cattle could easily ford the stream to get to it. Lake.
The captured calf was tied within the circle. John Greenleaf Holman, one of the pioneers,
When the dogs went near it, it would attack the was born in Byron Center, Genessee County,
largest, which would flee from it, although the New York, October 18, 1828. He was a strong,
calf was not more than six or eight weeks old. active young man of 18 years when he started
It would drink water out of a pail. The brethren with the pioneers. He boasted of his great
had some sport trying to make it suckle one of strength and endurance in swimming and
the milch cows. outdoor sports, and was of great help to the
The wagons were formed in a circle on the pioneers in the long journey.
burned prairie, but there were small patches Mr. Holman used to relate incidents of the
of grass nearby which had escaped the fire; trip when he accidentally shot one of Brigham
upon these the animals grazed until dark, being Young’s horses. He rushed into the presence
watched by the guardes. Some of the brethren of the leader of the party and excitedly cried,
took their horses on to the island and cut down “President Young, I shot old John!”
cottonwood trees for them. “John who?” asked Mr. Young, in just as
About 6:30 the “Revenue Cutter” arrived in excited a manner.
camp with the meat which was fatter than any “Why, old John, your horse,” replied Holman.
the brethren had obtained before. The men also “Oh,” said Brigham Young, with a sigh of
brought in another calf which they had killed; relief. “Never mind, my boy; we have more
this made a total of one cow and six calves horses.”
brought into camp that day. The meat was He thought at first it was John Y. Green who
divided among the companies of ten, each ten was shot.
getting a calf or half a quarter of the cow. Mr. Holman resided at Pleasant Grove, Utah,
The company had traveled forward during until 1875, when he moved to Idaho and settled
the day 15 miles and one mile back again. This at Rexburg, where he died November 5, 1885.
camping place was 263 miles from Winter
Quarters and nearly 800 miles were remaining
32
Day 32 • Thursday, May 6
A shower of rain fell in the pioneer camp
about 4 a.m. which dampened the grass, laid
the dust and ashes and partly extinguished
the prairie fire. A strong south wind had pre-
vailed during the night, but the morning was
calm and pleasant.
At 5:15 a.m. President Young called the
camp together and proposed to go on to where
they could find feed for the teams. The breth-
ren assented when orders were given to start
as quickly as possible. Some of the brethren,
however, had to feed their teams a little corn,
and others had to milk their cows, etc. Hence
it took until nearly 6:30 a.m. before the camp
got started.
The company, after traveling about two
miles, got beyond the range of the fire and
stopped at 6:45 a.m. on the unburned grass to
feed the animals. Several antelope were seen
and the brethren shot at them, killing one; the
rest made their escape. Several large herds of
buffalo were seen within a few miles from the
camp and many calves among them. President
Young and Elder Heber C. Kimball rode ahead
to find a place to stop and feed. The ground
was hard and the graveling good.
About 9 a.m. the journey continued. Presi-
dent Young and Heber C. Kimball again went
ahead to point out the road. The course taken
was about northwest and near the river. The
wind was blowing strong from the west. The
brethren saw as many as thirteen elk in one
bunch; also many antelope and numerous
herds of buffalo on both sides of the river.
Brother Redden shot an antelope which
Luke S. Johnson chased near the wagons. A
young buffalo calf followed Brother Johnson
to camp, and at the noon halt it was placed
in sight of its mother by order of President
Young so that the mother might get it, as it
was only a few days old, but George W. Brown
and another brother very foolishly went in
sight close to the cow, which then started off
and left the calf; the brethren afterward saw
the calf caught by a wolf and killed.
After traveling about six miles, a halt was
made at 11:45 a.m. at a place where more
grass was found, but the numerous herds of
buffalo had eaten it off close to the ground
nearly everywhere along the route of travel.
President Yong ordered that no more game
should be killed till further orders, as it ap-
peared that there was as much meat in camp
as could be taken care of.
While the company was stopping for noon,
some of the cows moved off toward a large
buffalo herd, and when President Young and
Heber C. Kimball started ahead after dinner,
they discovered the cows near the buffalo.
Brother Woolsey went to turn them back,
but he had to run his mule for some distance
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
before he could prevent the cows
from mingling with the wild herd.
However, they brought the cows
back to safety and then went ahead
again.
Some of the horsemen were busy
during the day driving the buffalo
back from the track of the pioneers,
judging it unsafe to risk them be-
tween the wagons and the river.
A meridian observation taken by
Orson Pratt by sextant showed that
the camp was at latitude 40 degrees
48 minutes and 32 seconds, 28
miles from the noon encampment
on the 4th.
At 1:30 p.m. the journey resumed
and the company, in traveling,
continued to see immense herds of
buffalo. During the afternoon some
buffalo ran tion the midst of the O. F. Eastman
camp between the wagons. Nov. 18, 1828, Wyndham County, Vermont —
After traveling about two miles, March 26, 1916, Idaho Falls, Idaho
the company came to a lake of clear
water. Here the pioneers discovered
the horsemen coming back and
found that President Young had lost his large During the day the brethren had noticed
spyglass worth $40 while chasing the buffalo that the green grass was abundant on the
herd the second time. south side of the Platte, even beyond the
The company traveled slowly during the burned section, but then brethren decided
afternoon, some of the horses and oxen hav- again that it would be better to go a little slow-
ing given out in consequence of lack of feed to er and continue to make a road on the north
sustain them. side for the use of future companies of saints.
Traveling continued until 6:30 p.m., when Young buffalo calves frequently came in the
an encampment was made near or opposite way of the pioneer wagons during the day and
an island in the river, while hearing wolves the brethren had to carry them some distance
and seeing antelope. The pioneers had trav- from the train to prevent them from following
eled some seven miles in the afternoon and or being in the way of the travelers.
15 miles during the day in a northwesterly Pioneer Ozro French Eastman, whose por-
direction. The wind was blowing from the trait is given on this page, was born November
west. Some of the brethren thought that the 18, 1828, in Wyndham County, Vermont, and
distance covered by travel during the day moved to Nauvoo in 1843. He answered the
was 18 miles, others guessed it 20 and some first call for pioneers to make the overland
even 25 miles, but from the number of times trip in 1847, and on the journey was a prom-
the company stopped and the slowness with inent man in the camp. He was a pioneer
which the teams moved William Clayton in every sense of the world and was one of
was satisfied that the day’s journey had not the three who first saw the valley from the
exceeded 15 miles. The evening encampment summit of the east mountains on July 21 and
was 278 miles from Winter Quarters. landed on the site of this city, then a wilder-
All the day while traveling the brethren ness, on the next day with the main company
were not out of sight of buffalo, and from their of pioneers.
evening encampment about 5,000 of them Mr. Eastman died March 26, 1916, at Idaho
could be seen through the glass. The prairie Falls. He was not a member of the Church. He
looked black with these nobel beasts, on both lived in Idaho Falls, Idaho, where he was a
sides of the river. It was truly a wonderful popular merchant. From his description of the
sight for the pioneers to behold. Each writer in trip, written expressly for The Tribune, many
the camp that night gave a different account of amusing incidents are related which greatly
the day, but all agreed that the many herds of added to the accuracy and interest of the story
these animals which were close to the wagons of long ago.
all the time was the greatest sight they had yet
witnessed on the trip across the plains.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 33 • Friday, May 7
This morning the wind blew from the
northwest and in the pioneer camp the weath-
er was nearly as cold as winter. Buffalo in
great numbers were seen all around.
Early in the morning Orson Pratt took an
observation of the moon, from which the lat-
itude of the camp was deducted and found to
be 40 degrees, 51 minutes, 18 seconds. From
a lunar distance of the moon from the sun, he
determined that longitude to be 100 degrees,
5 minutes, 45 seconds (or nine miles from the
noon halt on the previous day) differing only
two seconds of a degree, or ten rods, from the
longitude as determined by Captain Fremon,
taken on the opposite side of the river.
About 8 a.m. the camp was called together
and measures were taken to raise more teams
to haul the cannon, as some of the horses and
even cattle had given out. President Young re-
quested that only one man should ride on the
cannon instead of half a dozen. He remarked
that he had procured a boat, which he was
taking along for the benefit of the camp and
he had also furnished most of the horses to
haul the cannon, but now his teams were so
worn out that he needed them all to haul his
own wagons, and he, therefore wished those
who had horses to spare to put them in the
teams to draw the cannon. Colonel Markham
was instructed to put a driver on who would
not allow men to ride on the cannon and kill
the horses.
Following the suggestion of the President,
the camp voted unanimously that they would
kill no more game until they needed it for
food.
Before starting on their journey in the
morning, Dr. Willard Richards left another
board of directions for the benefit of future
emigrants. The company was in sight of
buffalo all day.
About 11 a.m. Porter Rockwell, Nathaniel
Thomas Brown, and Joseph Matthews started
back to hunt for President Young’s spyglass.
They found it in the afternoon.
Soon after they left, the pioneer company
proceeded onward and traveled in a north-
westerly direction for a distance of about
seven miles and camped at 2:30 p.m., near
several small islands in the river.
Many of the teams were weak for the want
of food, the grass having been eaten off by the
buffalo, of which about 2,000 were feeding
a short distance from the road; almost every
blade of grass had been eaten close to the
ground.
At about 1 p.m. a band of buffalo raced
around the camp. At first there were seven in
a bunch, later only four and then four more,
running exactly as if they were racing for
sweepstakes of considerable value. But after
they had raced around the camp within 15 or
20 rods of it, they halted to look at the wagons
with astonishment, for the wagons
had made a halt to see the end of
their gambols. At the same time
one of the brethren caught another
calf, but let it go again. Green
Flake (a negro pioneer) walked up
to within two rods of a lone buck
antelope before it got up. Thomas
Bullock wondered why he did not
kill it, but decided that the instruc-
tions given in the morning meeting
were a sufficient reason for his not
doing so.
There were at that moment
thousands upon thousands of buf-
falo in sight of the company, many
of them being calves, yearlings and
two-year-olds. The brethren saw
several large ones mired and dead
and wolves had commenced eating
their carcasses. Wolves were seen
on every hand following up the
herds of buffalo, so as to feast upon
the animals that died of wounds,
accidents or poverty.
At 3 p.m. the company halted close to an
island where the pioneers found pretty good
feed for the cattle. They had traveled about
seven miles during the day.
Toward evening President Young with four
or five men started up the river and traveled a Nevada, when last heard from.
short distance to view the country and search
out a road, for since the pioneers had left the
Loup Ford ford (April 24) they had made their
own road. They returned to camp later in the
evening, having encountered no dangerous
animals, except a skunk which they shot.
The evening encampment was made upon
the bank of the Platte, near an island where
better feeding was found.
The reason why the camp only traveled six
miles that day, and did not start until noon,
was that an axle tree had to be put into a
wagon in the morning, and the pioneers also
wanted to give their jaded teams more time
to eat, as the fed was very poor and the grain
they had brought with them was now nearly
all exhausted.
About 6 p.m. the brethren were called out
and exercised military tactics. The arms, am-
munition, etc were found to be in good order.
The evening was dull and chilly and there
was a slight sprinkling of rain. The wind was
blowing from the northwest.
It will be impossible to give portraits of
all 148 souls who made up the list of Utah
pioneers. The Tribune in 1897 reproduced a
larter number of pictures of those in the party of local interest, for it goes back to the early
than were ever before published, and many of days of 1835, and carries the writer’s life up
these had never before appeared in print.
Among those whose portraits could not be
secured are the following:
John S. Fowler, who went on to California in life being given.
33
Levi Jackman
July 28, 1797, Berkshire, Vermont —
July 23, 1876, Utah
1848, and subsequently died there.
John M. Freeman, who died of cholera in
Carson Valley in 1850.
Marcus B. Thorpe, who was murdered for
his money in California, January 19, 1849.
George R. Grant, who lived in Virginia City,
Samuel Bradford Fox, who was born De-
cember 4, 1829, at Admas, Jefferson County,
New York, and resided in Oregon when last
heard from.
William Dykes, who was born November
18, 1815, in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, and
died in Nebraska, November 24, 1879.
Henry G. Sherwood, who died in San Ber-
nardino before 1862.
Thomas Woolsey, who was born in Pulaski
County, Kentucky, November 3, 1805, and
died in Wales, Sanpete County, Utah, January
5, 1897.
Levi Jackman, whose portrait appears
today, was a notable member of the pioneer
band. He was born in Berkshire, Orange
County, Vermont, July 28, 1797, and died in
Utah, July 23, 1876. The portrait is drawn
from a very old photograph loaned by his
son, A. R. Jackman, who was also a pioneer
of 1847. From the latter The Tribune received
a welcome addition to its pioneer library in
the journal of 1847, kept by Levi Jackman,
who faithfully recorded everything that came
under his observation. This book is one of the
most valuable yet found as a historical relic
to 1848, when it abruptly ends. Prior to 1835
the history is written in narrative form, a ge-
nealogical resume and brief sketch of his early
34
Day 34 • Saturday, May 8
The morning was cold but fine and clear
in the pioneer camp. A northwest wind was
blowing gently. While the cattle grazed, the
pioneers were busy cooking, etc.
At 9 a.m. the company started and traveled
over a prairie covered with dry grass for about
seven and a half miles, the course being a lit-
tle west of northwest. At this place the prairie
on both sides of the river was literally black
with buffalo. It would have been impossible,
Elder Calyton writes, to have tried to state the
number. On the south side of the river there
was one dense mass of these animals covering
the plain several miles in length and march-
ing toward the hills. Many of the brethren
expressed their thankfulness that they were
on the north side of the river, away from such
immense droves, but as the company, in a
short time, turned a point of the hill, they saw
thousands and thousands of them marching
directly in the path of the pioneers and going
in the same direction as the wagons. They
were such a mass of living blackness that the
vanguard could not see the prairie beyond
them.
When the head teams got up to the herd
the brethren marshaled themselves into a
regiment and killed a young cow, in hopes that
the report of the gun might scare the others
away and allow the company to pass through.
Brother Clayton imagined that, at a moder-
ate calculation, the pioneers saw more than
50,000 buffalo that day. They would stand still
until wagons came within 200 yards of them.
Orrin Porter Rockwell shot one, about two
years old, and there was no difficulty in get-
ting meat enough to satisfy the camp. It was
with some difficulty that the horsemen could
drive the animals away from the track to clear
a way for the wagons as they came up.
The day was warm and there was no wind.
At noon Orson Pratt took a meridian
observation of the sun and found the latitude
to be 40 degrees 58 minutes 14 seconds, or 12
miles from the encampment of the evening of
the sixth, or morning of the seventh.
At five minus to 1 p.m. the company halted
to feed. Many of the buffalo walked along
by the side of the wagons, so that they could
easily have been shot down. The brethren
had great difficulty in keeping their horses
and cattle away from the wild herds, and if
they once got mixed with them it was almost
impossible to get them out again.
Speaking of the buffalo, Orson Pratt says
that thousands upon thousands of them
would crowd together as they came from the
bluffs to the bottom land and sloughs to drink,
until the land on each side of the river would
look like one dark spectacle of moving objects.
It looked as though the face of the earth was
alive and moving like the waves of the sea.
Between 2 and 3 p.m. William C. A. Smoot’s
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
horses ran away the second time that
week. President Young and Heber C.
Kimball rode out and Thomas Grover
and John Brown put their horses
at full speed to overtake them, but
they had to run more than a mile in
the modest of a large herd of buffalo
before Brothers Grover and Brown
could overtake the runaways. At
length, however, they succeeded in
capturing them and bringing them
safely into camp.
About 3 p.m. the train was again
in motion and traveled in a north-
westerly direction over the prairie,
which was absolutely bare, the grass
being eaten off by the innumerable
herds of buffalo. “No pen or tongue
can give an idea of the multitudes
of buffalo now in sight continually,”
writes Elder Clayton, “and it appears
difficult to keep them away from the
wagons. Two calves have been killed
and brought to camp and multitudes George W. Brown
more would be killed except for the Jan. 25, 1827, Newbury, Ohio —
order of the president that none
Dec. 20, 1906, Charleston, Utah
should be slaughtered except when
needed for food. Truly, the ‘Lord’s
cattle upon the hills’ are numerous.” pains to know for a certainty how many
Encampment was made at 6:30 p.m. some miles they traveled each day. Accordingly, he
two or three miles above the lower end of measured the circumference of the near hind
Brady’s Island, or within a quarter of a mile wheel of one of Heber C. Kimball’s wagons, it
from where the bluffs, for the first time, as being the one in which Brother Clayton slept
one travels westward, come down to the and was in charge of Philo Johnson. Brother
river’s side. These bluffs were mere sand hills, Clayton found the wheel to be 14 feet 8 inches
almost destitute of vegetation. On top of some in circumference, not varying one-eighth
of them, in the driest places, grew a vegeta- of an inch. He then calculated how many
ble, the top of which very much resembled a revolutions it would require for one mile and
pineapple. One of them, which was dug up by he found it precisely 360, not varying one
the brethren, had a root one and a half inches fraction. Thus he counted the number of revo-
in diameter and two feet in length. It was lutions during the day’s travel and found it to
called by some of the company a Spanish soap be a little over 11 and one-fourth miles and 20
weed. The roots of this weed, when pounded revolutions over. The over-plus, he designed
up, make a very good suds, which in Mexico is to add to the next day’s travel. According
used for washing clothes. to his previous calculations, the pioneers
About 6:45 p.m. the company was all were 285 miles from Winter Quarters on the
encamped in a circle for the night on the morning of May 8, before starting, and after
banks of the river near the bluffs, which had traveling 10 miles he placed a small post in
appeared exceedingly ragged all day, where the ground with these words written on it in
they struck the river. A cold wind prevailed in pencil: “From Winter Quarters 295 miles, May
the evening. 8, 1847. Camp all well. William Clayton.”
William Clayton had for some time counted George W. Brown, whose portrait is given
the revolutions of a wagon wheel to tell the on this page, lived for many years in Charl-
exact distance the pioneers traveled. The rea- ston, Wasatch County, Utah, and was one of
son why he adopted this method, which was the pioneers of Utah. He was born January 25,
somewhat tedious, was because there usually 1827, in Newbury, Cuyahoga County, Ohio,
existed a difference of opinion as to the dis- and died December 20, 1906, in Charlston,
tance traveled at the end of the day. There Utah. He worked for Dr. Willard Richards at
were, at times, a difference of two miles, and Winter Quarters, and during the great journey
sometimes even of four miles, in the estima- he drove the doctor’s team.
tion of different brethren, and it was thought To Mr. Brown holds the distinction of being
that Brother Clayton underrated distance. one of the three who plowed the first furrows
But this morning he was determined to take in the valley on July 23, 1847.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 35 • Sunday, May 9
The morning was clear in the pioneer
camp, with a brisk wind blowing from the
south. As there was no feed for the teams, the
camp moved about 8 a.m. and traveled over
a sandy ridge, descended to the river bottom
and camped near the river, where there was
some dry grass. There also was wood on an
island in front of the camp, which was easy
to procure. Here they rested for the day, it
being about four miles from the camp of the
previous evening. This halt was in latitude 41
degrees 0 minutes 47 seconds, or nine miles
from the noon encampment of the previous
day.
Some of the brethren bathed in the river
and others did a little washing, while others
took their horses on to the island and cut
down cottonwood trees for the animals, being
careful, however, to leave plenty for the use of
the oncoming emigrants.
At 3:30 p.m. the brethren assembled
around the “Revenue Cutter,” where a meeting
was held. Wilford Woodruff, Orson Pratt,
Amasa M. Lyman, and Ezra T. Benson were
the speakers. Thomas Bullock read the laws
regulating the camp, and the benediction was
pronounced by Wilford Woodruff.
At the close of the afternoon meeting Pres-
ident Young ate supper with Elder Kimball,
after which the two brethren started out
together, accompanied by one or two others,
going out to look at the country. A few miles
ahead they found a small stream, which the
pioneers would have to cross, and where they
saw multitudes of buffalo coming to water.
Orrin Porter Rockwell and Phineas H. Young
went within six or eight rods of them to try to
get one, but in the whole herd they could not
35
find one fit to kill; the animals were
all very poor, feed being scarce
because the grass had been eaten
off as soon as it sprung up. There
were, however, some good cotton-
wood groves and clear water in the
stream. They also saw some wild
geese and a skunk. After sundown
the wind blew up from the north-
west and the air was chilly.
William Clayton, during the
day, had prepared another board
upon which he had written, “From
Winter Quarters, 300 miles, May 9,
1847. Pioneer Camp, all well. Dis-
tance, according to the reckoning
of William Clayton.” In the evening
Elder Clayton nailed this to a post
which he set up about 300 yards
from the campground on a bend of
the river. Elder Clayton evidently
felt that his journal would be used
by the historian of after years, for
sitting by the bank of the Platte that
Sunday afternoon he wrote in con-
Orson Pratt
cluding some personal jottings: “I Sept. 19, 1811, Hartford, New York
expect this journal will have to pass — Oct. 3, 1881, Salt Lake City
through other hands beside my own
or those of my family.” He spent
much of the time of the day writing
in Elder Heber C. Kimball’s journal. had been chosen to visit the saints at Pueblo,
During the day Elder Willard Richards should continue with the Pioneer camp as
dictated a letter to William Clayton, which far as Fort Laramie. Elder Wilford Woodruff
was to be sent to Porter Dowdle, president also wrote letters for the brethren to take to
of the saints at Pueblo, by Thomas Woolsey, Brothers James Ferguson and James Bevan at
John H. Tippets, and Roswell Stevens, and at Pueblo.
a meeting of the Twelve held during the day
it was agreed that these three brethren, who
36
Day 36 • Monday, May 10
The morning was cold in the pioneer camp,
with a moderate wind blowing from the west.
Large fires and overcoats were comfortable.
Early in the day the wind changed to the east.
Before the pioneers left their campground
this morning, the Twelve deposited a letter,
which had been written the previous day,
addressed to the officers of the next company
of Saints who would follow in the track of the
pioneers in about six or eight weeks.
The letter was carefully secured from the
weather by sawing about five or six inches
into a board, parallel to its surface. The board
was about six inches wide, and 18 inches long.
The letter was deposited in the track made by
the saw, and three sheets were respectively
nailed upon the top and two sides, and after
writing upon the board the necessary direc-
tions, it was nailed to the end of a pole, four
or five inches in diameter and about 15 feet in
length. This pole was firmly set about five feet
in the ground, near the road. On the outside
was written in red chalk: “Open this, and you
will find a letter.” On the reverse side was
written: “Look in this, 316 miles from Winter
Quarters, bound westward. Pioneers. Lat.
41 degrees.” On the post was written “Platte
Postoffice.” Close by the side of the post was
left a currier’s chop. The letter was directed to
Charles C. Rich and contained an account of
the journey of the pioneers up to that point. It
also contained the laws regulating the pioneer
camp for the benefit and comfort of the saints
who should follow after. Thomas Bullock
read the same to President Young, who said,
“That’s scripture.”
The camp moved about 9 a.m., the second
company of the first division leading; traveled
about two miles in a north-northwesterly
direction and crossed a clear creek, about 15
feet wide. This creek, which Elder Kimball
named Skunk Creek, was easily forded,
though the ground was soft on the west side.
Soon after crossing this creek, the pioneers
found themselves in the midst of an abun-
dance of dry grass and of good size. About this
time a bay horse, which seemed quite wild,
made its appearance. Thomas Brown and Or-
rin Porter Rockwell went in pursuit of it, going
several miles in hopes of capturing it, but it
fled with great speed over the bluffs. Brother
John Brown stated that when the Mississippi
company passed on the other side of the river
the year before, on their journey westward,
one of the brethren lost a mare and two colts,
and the horse now seen by the brethren was
supposed to be the oldest of the two colts.
When Thomas Woolsey and John T. Tippetts
passed through this locality from the battalion
at Pueblo the previous winter they saw the
same horse in the same neighborhood.
At Skunk Creek some of the brethren shot
a buffalo, which was brought into camp in
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
the “Revenue Cutter.” In traveling
this day, the pioneers observe that
the herds of buffalo were not as
extensive as formerly. Having eaten
out almost every blade of grass,
they had evidently taken an east-
ward course to places where feed
was more abundant. On account
of the scant feeding the animals of
the pioneers had almost given out.
Although the grass in parts of the
country had been growing four or
five days since the largest herds of
buffalo had left, yet the animals of
the pioneers could as yet only find a
very scanty allowance.
For several days past, William
Clayton and others of the brethren
had been studying up the best
method of attaching some machin-
ery to a wagon wheel to indicate
the number of miles traveled
daily. President Young request-
ed Orson Pratt to give the idea
some attention, William Clayton Truman O. Angell
having suggested that some such
mechanism might be constructed. June 5, 1811, Providence, Rhode Island
After consideration, Brother Pratt — Oct. 16, 1887, Salt Lake City
proposed the following method:
That a wagon wheel of such circumference Before leaving the campground at 1:45 p.m.
that 360 revolutions would make a mile (such the brethren set fire to the dead grass on the
as the one used by William Clayton in his prairie, so that the next company of saints
experiment) should be selected and made to might have green grass for their animals. It
act upon a screw,in such a manner that six made a great fire.
revolutions of the wagon wheel would give About the same time Brothers Orrin Porter
the screw one revolution; that the threads of Rockwell and John Brown return to camp,
this screw should act upon of 60 cogs, which having failed to catch the horse.
would of necessity perform one revolution per After traveling about half a mile, the
mile. Then, if the cogs were numbered from 0 pioneers crossed a bad slough, and beyond
to 30, the number of miles traveled would be that, for a mile, the ground was wet and soft.
indicated during every part of the day. Profes- The teams began to give out, and at 4:30
sor Pratt also suggested that every sixth gog p.m. Presiden Young ordered the wagons to
of the first wheel be numbered 0 to 10, as that strike for the timber, which was a little out
division would indicate the fractional part of a of the general course, but necessary to favor
mile, or tenths, while, if anyone was desirous the teams and to obtain wood and water. The
of ascertaining still smaller divisional frac- company arrived near the timber at 4:50 p.m.
tions, each cog between this division would and camped, having traveled since William
give five and one-third rods. Clayton put up his last guidepost, a little more
The machinery (which might be called a than nine and three-quarters miles.
double endless screw) would be simple in its Truman O. Angell of the pioneer band,
construction and of very small bulk, requiring whose picture is published today, was a broth-
scarcely any sensible additional power, and er-in-law of Brigham Young. He was born in
the knowledge obtained respecting distances Providence, Rhode Island, June 5, 1810, and
traveled would be valuable to every travel- died in Salt Lake City, October 16, 1887. He
er, especially in a country little known. The was a prominent member of the camp, as well
weight of the machinery need not exceed as being identified with the growth of Salt
three pounds. Lake City. One of the greatest monuments
At noon the camp halted to refresh teams, to his memory is the great Mormon temple,
after traveling six miles during the forenoon. of which he was the architect, and for which
The last two miles had been over a soft prai- he drew all the original plans, as well as
rie, and although the previous year’s grass supervising its construction up to the time of
had not been burned, the wheels cut through his death. He also built the Beehive House and
the sod frequently. other prominent residences in the city.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 37 • Tuesday, May 11
The morning was cool in the pioneer camp
and a gentle wind was blowing from the east.
Later, however, it changes to the south. The
sky was partially covered with clouds. Several
large wolves and also some antelope and
buffalo were seen near the camp.
At 7 a.m. William Clayton went out with a
number of brethren to dig some wolves out
of a hole about a quarter of a mile from camp.
They dug out four fine cubs and brought them
to the camp alive. The little animals were very
vicious, although the brethren judged them to
be only six or eight weeks old. Later they were
killed to make caps for the brethren.
Dr. Richards found a buffalo horn filled
with a hornet’s nest and brought it to camp.
He afterward rode to the island, where with an
ax he cut off a patch of bark from a large tree
and wrote an inscription on it for the benefit
of the saints who should follow after.
Orson Pratt, accompanied by other breth-
ren as guards, left the campground about 8:30
a.m., and after traveling about seven miles
crossed the edge of the bluffs which here
reached the river, but soon the travelers again
entered the prairie bottoms. After traveling
about one mile farther, they crossed a small
stream of water about 15 feet wide with a
sandy, hard bottom. The lowlands for miles
around were, to a great extent, covered with
saline efflorescences of a whitish color.
After traveling nine miles during the fore-
noon, Elder Pratt and his companions halted
for noon. A meridian observation of the sun
taken by Brother Pratt gave for the latitude of
the noon camp 40 degrees 7 minutes and 44
seconds, and for the longitude 100 degrees
47 minutes and 15 seconds. This observation
was made a few miles above the junction of
the north and south forks of the Platte River
and 13 and one-half miles from the noon en-
campment of the previous day. Orson Pratt’s
little company did not travel any farther that
day.
The main camp started its day’s journey at
9:30 a.m. and rolled onward over a very nice,
dry prairie with a sprinkling of dry grass upon
it. Among the timber on the island would be
seen several small cedars and other trees.
At the end of the five miles the company
37
crossed a low ridge of sandy bluffs
which extended to the river. After
passing nearly over the bluffs, a halt
was made at 12:20 for half an hour
on the brink of the river (by a steep
sand precipice) to water the cattle
and rest.
The brethren saw some antelope
and deer, but only a few buffalo
during the day.
After the noon halt the journey
was continued three miles farther,
the company passing over a creek
of clear water, which, however, was
not considered good in conse-
quence of so many dead buffalo
lying in it.
After proceeding half a mile
farther and finding tolerably good
feed, an encampment was made
for the night at 3 p.m. within half a
mile of Orson Pratt’s station.
During the day the pioneer com-
pany had traveled 8 and a half miles Horace Thornton
in a northwesterly direction.
May 7, 1822 Hinsdale, New York
After the camp had been formed
for the night, the brethren dug two
— March 21, 1914, Manti, Utah
wells, as the place of encampment
was half a mile from water; at about the depth especially by Mr. Clayton, who was becoming
of four feet, good pure water was found. very weary of counting the revolutions of a
Orson Pratt and the men who had traveled wagon wheel to measure distance, which he
with him during the day and who had gone had done up to this time.
half a mile farther west retraced their steps Amasa M. Lyman found a human skull on
that far and joined the main camp in the eve- which could be seen arrow shot, the blows of
ning. Elder Pratt placed his wagon in a circle a tomahawk and the marks of a scalping knife.
as usual for the night. Albert P. Rockwood exhibited the skull to the
The weather was fine, with wind blowing brethren in camp.
from the south and southeast. Only a few A portrait of Horace Thornton, pioneer,
buffalo were seen by the pioneers that day, formerly of Glenwood, Sevier County, Utah,
but there were signs of thousands having appears with today’s recital. He was born in
wintered in the neighborhood. The country Hinsdale, Cattaraugus County, New York, May
through which they had traveled looked beau- 7, 1822, and died at Manti, Utah, March 31,
tiful; the soil was rich, but timber was scarce. 1914. He was one of the most willing workers
The evening was cloudy in the pioneer camp in the pioneer camp, and ever ready to lend a
with a moderate wind blowing. hand here or there whenever needed. He was
Appleton M. Harmon, a machinist, was bus- one of Orson Pratt’s vanguard of forty-two
ily engaged all the evening in completing the men which preceded the main body to the
odometer under William Clayton’s direction. valley.
They called it a “roadometer” and its comple-
tion was eagerly anticipated by the pioneers,
38
Day 38 • Wednesday, May 12
The morning was cool in the pioneer camp.
Orson Pratt, by the aid of his instruments,
found that the place of the night’s encamp-
ment was 2,685 feet above sea level. The wind
blew moderately from the east and the sky
was clear. Later in the day the wind changed
to the south.
William Clayton, with the assistance of
Appleton M Harmon, finished the machinery
constructed for measuring distances, and
attached it to a wagon wheel. It was, as stated,
called a “roadometer,” and was constructed
upon the principle of an endless screw.
The cattle grazed until 9 a.m. when the
pioneers resumed their journey. They traveled
over a dark-colored soil with many panache
of saline deposits, more so than at any other
place they had yet seen. It might be termed
dust, with a salt taste, and looked something
like flour.
After traveling about two miles, the com-
pany came to sandy ground again, where they
watered their animals and then proceeded on
their journey.
The company traveled eight miles in a
northwesterly direction in about four hours,
and stopped about 1 p.m. to rest opposite
three small islands in the north fork of the
Platte River. Here the feed was tolerably
good. A storm wind blew from the southeast,
which caused everything in the wagons to
be covered with dust and sand. The noon
encampment, according to Orson Pratt’s ob-
servation, was nine miles above the junction
of the Platte at latitude 41 degrees 9 minutes
44 second. At this point there was no timber
on the bank of the north fork, and only a little
on the islands.
At 3:30 p.m. the company resumed the
journey, traveled about four miles, crossed
two creeks and camped at 5:45 p.m. near a
bunch of small islands and where a creek
emptied into the river forming a little lake.
The source traveled in the afternoon was a
little north of west, the train traveling round a
considerable bend in the river, where the soil
was fertile and traveling good. The wind was
southeast. The day’s journey covered about
twelve miles.
Several of the brethren with their hooks,
caught some small fish called dace in the
“bayou,” or small lake. The feed at this camp-
ing place was rather scanty. In the evening
heavy clouds were rising in the west and
southwest, and there was a fair prospect of a
much needed rain. The brethren now knew
that they were 14 and one-half miles above
the junction of the north and south forks of
the Platte, and although they had to make a
new road all the way, they had found, so far,
no obstacle.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Brother Woodruff reported in
the evening that he had been to the
bluffs north of the camp and seen
upwards of 200 wickiups, where the
Indians had camped very recently.
He found a cured buffalo skin and
parts of other hides.
The hunters killed a two-year-old
buffalo and brought it to camp.
Orson Pratt reported that when
the company was five and one-half
miles back from their evening
camping ground they were at
latitude 41 degrees 9 minutes 44
seconds.
Erastus Snow, speaking of the
evening encampment, said: “We
crossed this afternoon a small, clear
stream, and we are now encamped
on a good sized creek and in sight of
the bluff which separates the north
and the south fork of the Platte,
the most southern point of which
is still a few miles above us. The Benjamin Franklin Dewey
south fork appears to come in from May 5, 1829, Westfield, Massachusetts
the southwest, nearly opposite our
— Feb. 23, 1904, Chloride, Arizona
camp, and then runs along near
its own bluff about 20 miles to its
confluence with the north fork, a peninsula river, where they had been run over by the
of from one to nine miles wide separating animals in running up the banks.
them. Here we find fresh signs of Indians, and Brother Woodruff also found on the bluff a
one of their late encampments. We passed medicine bag tied to a stick six feet long and
today the carcasses of over 100 buffalo lately stuck in the bank. It was what was called a
slaughtered by them. They have taken only kinnikinnick, composed of tobacco and bark,
the hides, tongues, marrow bones and here to smoke. He also found a saddle tied to a
and there a choice piece of meat, leaving the buffalo chip. It was supposed to show the way
buffalo to the wolves, which are by no means the buffalo had gone.
scarce or backward in waiting upon them- Acres of land were found covered with buf-
selves. Most of the buffalo that we have seen falo wool, where the Indians had dressed their
on this route seem to be pork, and we found skins. They had left much stuff scattered over
many carcasses of those which have died the ground, such as pieces of dressed buffalo,
this spring, and in several instances we have wolf skins, moccasins, etc. Elder Woodruff
found animals so feeble that our boys, who brought in a dood dressed buffalo, wolf skins,
love sport, have caught them by the tail and moccasins, etc.
horns and handled them as they would any Elder Woodruff brought in a good dressed
domestic animals.” white wolf skin. In climbing the hills, which
Elder Bullock remarks that the valley he found fertile and covered with grass, he
through which the pioneers had passed that could see the bluffs between the forks of the
day might aptly be called “The Valley of Dry river about ten miles above the campground.
Bones,” from the immense number of dried Benjamin Franklin Dewey, who was one
buffalo bones found upon it. of the members of the pioneer band on this
It was proven the pioneers during the day trip, was a resident of White Hills, Arizona,
had traveled over the Sioux hunting ground, in 1897. He was born in Westfield, Massa-
and the brethren believed that some ten days chusetts, May 5, 1829, and died in Chloride,
previously there had been a band of Sioux Arizona, February 23, 1904. Leaving Westfield
ranging from 500 to 1,000, judging from their in 1846, he stopped at Winter Quarters until
tracks. Brother Woodruff found one hundred he left for the Rocky Mountains in April 1847.
dead calves in one place, with nothing taken He arrived in the Valley with the main body
from them but the tongues and the legs to the on July 22, 1847.
knees. At another place 35 calves were found
dead and washed in heaps by the banks of the
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 39 • Thursday, May 13
A very cold wind had prevailed in the pio-
neer camp all night and the morning was raw
and cloudy, the wind blowing from the north-
west; in fact, it was cold enough for overcoats
and buffalo robes. The buffalo which were
killed the day before were cut up and divided
among the companies of tens.
Quite early in the morning Thomas Bullock
and Howard Egan visited the remains of a
Sioux town and made observations among
the recently deserted lodges, which they esti-
mated to number four or five hundred. They
found the remains of buffalo skins, packs of
ropes, leather, moccasins, halters, etc., left
behind as if the Indians, in leaving, had been
recruiting with new material and were casting
the old away.
In picking up buffalo chips in the morning,
Brother Bullock discovered a very pretty green
snake, which he played with at the end of a
thin stick. He was afterward informed that it
was one of the most poisonous snakes known.
At 8 a.m. the cattle which had been grazing
were gathered up and the company started at
9 o’clock, while a northwest wind was blow-
ing. After crossing the creek, the traveling
was continued over a loamy soil, in a westerly
course for about four miles.
At 11 a.m. the company stopped to feed
the animals by the side of a slough at a place
where the grass was a little better than usual.
The buffalo were not as plentiful as before,
which accounted for the feed getting better.
The wind was blowing very strong from the
north and northeast. The clouds broke away
about noon, which permitted Orson Pratt to
get an observation of the sun’s altitude, and
he determined the latitude to be 41 degrees
12 minutes 33 seconds at a point 18 and a half
miles above the junction of the Platte.
At 12:30 p.m. the journey was continued,
and after the company had traveled six and
three-quarters miles, they arrived at 4 p.m. at
a stream (now called Birdwood Creek), which
was about 10 rods wide and appeared to come
from the northeast; the water in this creek
was muddy, somewhat similar to the water in
the Platte, the bottom of the river being quick-
sand and about two feet deep in the middle,
but the sides were quite shallow.
It seemed that previous travelers had never
discovered this stream, as it was not noticed
in any of the guide books that the pioneers
had seen. The company crossed this creek
without difficulty and camped on its west
bank about 100 rods from its entrance into
the north fork of the Platte, nearly opposite
the easternmost bluff between the two forks
of the Platte. The general course of this river,
for two or three miles from its confluences
39
with the north fork, was nearly
north and south. It proceeded
from between the bluffs about
one mile from its mouth. Erastus
Snow writes that this was the latest
tributary of the Platte the pioneers
had seen since they left Loup Fork.
It had a quicksand bottom fully as
bad as Loup Fork.
Wilford Woodruff, in describ-
ing the Platte, remarks that it was
different from any river he had seen
before. Its general width was about
one mile and the river bed, though
very shallow was generally covered
with water, but when a south wind
was blowing all the water was
pushed to the north shore, until
the observer would suppose that
there was a great rise in the water,
but when the wind shifted and blew
from the north, the water would John Wesley Norton
immediately leave the north shore
until a man could walk across two- Nov. 6, 1820, Henry County, Indiana
thirds of the river on gare ground. — Oct. 20, 1921, Panguitch, Utah
And thus the river constantly ebbed
and flowed like the tide in the sea, just accord- Platte and 341 miles from Winter Quarters
ing to the way the wind blew. by estimation. President Young named the
In crossing the creek, three wagons stuck stream North Bluff Fork.
in the sand, but by doubling teams, and the President Young and Heber C. Kimball saw
brethren assisting, they were pulled out with a large rattlesnake near the river which Broth-
only a little delay, though the men got very er Kimball said was the latest he had ever
wet. The creek was only two feet deep. seen in his life. President Young and Brother
The pioneers had found it necessary when Kimball suffered severely from cold while
fording the streams with quicksand bottoms riding over the bluffs to look for a road.
to keep the wagons constantly in motion, for Elder Wilford Woodruff writes: “I dreamed
directly they were stopped they began to sink last night that we had arrived at our journey’s
in the sand, and it was then required much end, where we were to build up a stake of
effort to extricate them. Zion. As we came to the place, an open vision
After the camp was formed in nearly a of a temple was presented before me. I asked
semicircle the cattle were turned loose upon some brethren who stood by me if they saw
pretty good grass, after traveling 10 and it; they answered that they did not, but I
three-quarters miles, according to Brother gazed upon it and the sight was glorious. It
Clayton’s roadometer. At the time of camping appeared as though it were built of white and
the weather was cloudy and very cold, with a blue stone. The sight of it filled me with joy. I
strong wind blowing. awoke and, behold, it was a dream.”
President Brigham Young and Heber C. The portrait presented with today’s recital
Kimball rode ahead as usual to look out the is that of John Wesley Norton, an aged and
road. They reported that the bluffs half a mile respected citizen of Panguitch, Garfield Coun-
west of the evening’s encampment came close ty, Utah, in 1897. Mr. Norteon was one of the
to the river and were of considerable height, pioneers, having been requested by Brigham
producing a high, precipitous bank. They Young at Winter Quarter to prepare himself
consisted mostly of sand ridges and broken for the journey. After the train started and the
knobs. They saw several ranges of these bluffs camp was organized, Mr. Norton was named
and finally found a valley running through as one of the food hunters, and he was active
some of the ranges through which the pio- with his gun in securing game for the camp.
neers could pass by going a mile out of their After months, he was with those who explored
course. The stream on which the pioneers had Salt Lake and Tooele valleys under the direc-
encamped was 25 and one-fourth miles long tion of the leaders.
above the junction of the North and South
40
Day 40 • Friday, May 14
The morning was cold and cloudy in the
pioneer camp. In the west, streaks of lightning
were occasionally seen and distant thunder
was heard. Both men and animals suffered on
account of the cold.
At 8 a.m. it began to rain pretty hard, the
storm being accompanied by thunder and
lightning. Just before the rain began President
Young ordered the horses gathered, which
was done.
During the morning the brethren saw
several herds of buffalo running and John S.
Higbee reported that he had seen 32 Indian
ponies roaming over the hills west of the
camp; the next day, however, it was discov-
ered that these were the pioneers’ own horses.
Early in the morning Wilfrod Woodruff
went out to hut buffalo; he hid himself on the
bank of the river, where he saw 17 bulls pass-
ing. He fired at the youngest one, but missed
him and thus secured no game.
After the rain had ceased the horn was
again blown and orders given to gather up
the cattle, which had strayed away for some
distance during the storm.
About 10 a.m the pioneers, having hitched
their teams, resumed the journey, They
traveled about a mile, then taking a winding
and circuitous route nearly north among and
around the high bluffs and sandy ridges; they
then turned south and again approached the
river as they traveled south, southwest. Wild
sagehens were seen on this route, also the
prickly pear. About three-quarters of a mile
from the river they stopped at a pool by the
side of the hill to feed, having again reached
the level river bottom, about 1:40 p.m., after
traveling six and one-quarter miles.
President Young and Heber C. Kimball
went forward to point out the route which
was found to be very good traveling, although
considerably uneven.
Orson Pratt ascended some of the highest
of the hills, from the top of which a beautiful
and extended prospect opened on every side.
Brother John S. Higbee killed an antelope
and wounded another, which made its escape
while he was loading his rifle.
The feed where the company halted was
somewhat better than it had been farther
back. A little rain fell just as the noon encamp-
ment was made. The wind blew gently in the
morning, but as the day passed it increased
from the north. It was somewhat warmer
during the day than it had been during the
morning. Some of the brethren discovered
fresh buffalo tracks where the Indians, evi-
dently very lately, had gone up the stream on
the north (Birdwood River).
At 3 p.m. the pioneers continued their
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
journey and in traveling they kept
above the lower prairie nearest the
river which appeared to be loft and
swampy. The country there was
very uneven, but more solid for the
animals’ feet, though they traveled
through some very heavy sand
spots.
The company, having traveled
two and one-half miles, stopped at
4:30 p.m. to wait for the report of
those who had gone ahead to look
out the road. Finding good feed at
this palace, the brethren thought
it best to let their teams enjoy the
benefit of it before venturing among
the sandhills; otherwise they would
have traveled farther that day.
Heber C. Kimball went across
several ranges on the west and
hunted for a road in several
directions, but there appeared no
possibility of finding a place where
a road could be made between the Barnabas L. Adams
bluffs without going many miles Aug. 28, 1812, Batherst, Canada
around. President Young and Heber
— June 2, 1869, Salt Lake City
C. Kimball then concluded that it
would be best for the company to
camp for the night where they had already perhaps for the purpose of stealing horses.
halted and then cross the bluff in the morning During the night (just before midnight) one
by doubling teams. was perceived by the guard creeping upon
Accordingly, the encampment was formed his hands and feet toward a pair of mules that
at 5:30 p.m. after having traveled eight and were tied together. He was fired upon and
three-quarters miles during the day. The immediately arose and ran. In the meantime
course in the afternoon had been nearly west an alarm was given by the guard; the brethren
and the wind was blowing from the southeast. were aroused, all the horses were brought into
The feed for the teams was getting better as the circle and the cannon prepared for firing,
the company traveled westward. but the brethren saw no more Indians.
On one of the high sandy bluffs William Barnabus L. Adams of the pioneer compa-
Clayton discovered a large bed of flowers, ny, whose portrait is given in today’s recital,
not unlike violets and very rich in perfume. was born in Bathurst, Lanark County, Canada,
The sand on the bluffs in some places looked August 28, 1812. He was a captain of the
like large drifts of snow and in other places it guard at night and at all times was of great
seemed to have deep chasms, as if washed by assistance in the camp. This was particularly
heavy rains. The atmosphere was still cloudy, the case when a stream had to be forded, as
but it was not so cold. he had been accustomed to river work when
During the day the hunters killed two buf- floating logs down the Mississippi from Iowa
falo, three antelopes and one badger; the meat to St. Louis.
obtained from these animals was very accept- He furnished timber for the tabernacle,
able. It was dark when the hunters returned to theater, and other public buildings of Salt
give the result of their chase and the “Revenue Lake City, and on June 1, 1869, he started up
Cutter” was sent out after the neat, which was City Creek for some tan bark. Before leaving
reported to bea mile and half distant. It was he had strained his chest while lifting a wagon
late when they returned with the game. box. He felt worse every hour, but kept on
During the evening, as usual, the animating and completed his errand; but the next day,
sounds of music in different parts of the camp while sitting at his own table for dinner, with
seemed to break gently in upon the surround- no word of warning, he fell off his chair and
ing solitudes of these uninhabited regions. expired, June 2, 1869.
Indians seemed to have discovered the
pioneer camp and were looking around,
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 41 • Saturday, May 15
The morning was cloudy and cold in the
pioneer camp, more like January than May.
The wind blew cold from the northeast. The
brethren who killed the buffalo the day before
did not bring it in the previous evening, but
placed it in the boat (Revenue Cutter) and left
it until morning. About 7:30 a.m. they brought
in the meat and divided it into fourteen por-
tions and distributed it to the captains of ten.
A cold rain began about 8 o’clock, but
abated a little before 9 a.m. A large number
of barefoot tracks were seen in the morning
under the bluffs in the banks of the river. They
were supposed to be the tracks of Indians
who had come down the night before to steal
horses.
About 9 a.m. the teams being brought in
and pitched up, the pioneers resumed their
journey, taking a winding course through a
“mountain of sand” which was hard pulling
for the oxen.
After traveling three-quarters of a mile,
the company began to ascend the sand bluffs.
About that time it began to rain again and
the weather was very cold, the wind continu-
ing strong. The road was much of a zig-zag
over the bluffs for about a mile and then the
wagons descended through the sand to the
bottoms at a place about as steep as most
house roofs, and the teams and wagons went
down almost with a jump.
After reaching the bottom, they crossed
a small stream of swiftly running water
proceeding from springs among the hills, and
, finding good grass, halted for noon about 10
a.m. after traveling two and one-quarter miles.
About noon it ceased raining and the signal
was given to harness up the teams again. At
12:30 p.m. the journey was continued in a
westerly direction, traveling over the bottom
lands about four and half miles, and at 4:20
p.m. the night encampment was made about a
quarter of a mile from the river, after traveling
during the day about seven miles.
The road had been soft and wet and yet not
bad traveling, both in the forenoon and after-
noon. The bluffs were about half a mile north
of the camp where several herds of buffalo
were grazing.
Some of the hunters went out for the pur-
pose of getting some meat. In the meantime
the wind continued blowing and the weather
was cold, damp and uncomfortable. The feed
appeared better near this camping place
41
than for several days previously,
though the buffalo had eaten much
of the grass; the cattle soon filled
themselves, which was a comfort
and blessing to the camp. The
brethren dug several wells from
three to four feet deep and procured
an abundance of water, though the
camp was only a quarter of a mile
from the river.
Some of the brethren were lucky
enough to pick up a few dead leaves
and dried wood for making fires,
but the chief source of fuel was
buffalo chips, which abounded
everywhere.
About two miles back from the
evening camp the pioneers had
passed a place where the Indians
had lately camped during their
hunt. It was plain that whole
families were among the number,
as footprints and moccasins of
children were frequently seen. The Thomas P. Cloward
Indians seemed also to use buffalo Dec. 10, 1823, Chester County, Pennsylvania
chips for fuel, and for seats they
— Jan. 16, 1909, Payson, Utah
had dug up sods and laid them in
a circle around the fire which was
made in the center. During the afternoon the even kill them.
pioneers passed a number of these temporary The pioneers found the buffalo herds
camping grounds. numerous among these sand hills and as deer,
Late at night Porter Rockwell came into antelope, geese, duck, etc., were still plentiful,
camp and reported that he had killed a buffa- the hunters would generally provide the
lo. The “Revenue Cutter” was sent out to bring whole camp with all the meat required.
the meat to camp. For several days driftwood and buffalo
Fresh tracks of Indians were found in the excrement had been the only fuel obtainable
sand during the day. It appeared to be the by the camp, but water could be found almost
custom of these tribes to follow trains of em- anywhere on the Platte bottom by digging
igrants for hundreds of miles, keeping them- wells from four to six feet deep,and the breth-
selves secreted during the day and watching ren preferred to dig wells than go from half a
their opportunity to steal during the night. mile to a mile to the river for water.
During the day, while the teams were Thomas P. Cloward, who was one of the pi-
grazing, about 14 men usually circled them oneer band, was still alive in 1897. His home
on all sides to prevent them from straying or was at Payson, Utah, and, although nearly 75
being suddenly frightened away, in case of any years of age, was hale and hearty. Mr. Cloward
sudden incursion of Indians, accompanied by was born in Chester County, Pennsylvania,
their horrid yell which they frequently prac- December 10, 1823. He emigrated to the Mis-
ticed on purpose to scatter horses and cattle souri River in 1846 and left Winter Quarters
belonging to emigrants; afterward the Indians with the very first party bound for the west,
would hunt the scattered animals at their April 5, 1847, arriving in the valley on the
leisure, and in case small parties of two or 24th of July in that year. He died January 16,
three men went in search of them, they would 1909, in Payson.
sometimes attack them and rob them of their
clothing and saddle horses, if they had any, or
42
Day 42 • Sunday, May 16
The morning was fine but chilly in the pio-
neer camp. The wind was in the north, with a
clear sky, and ice was seen in several places.
Eric Glines killed an antelope near the
camp in the morning, which was cut up and
distributed. Francis Boggs also brought a
young antelope into camp.
President Young, Wilford Woodruff and
Ezra T. Benson went out on horseback about
four miles to look out the best road over the
bluffs. They returned at half past 12 and
reported that the pioneers could pass through
a valley between and around the bluffs, and
that the distance across them would be about
four miles.
Nearly all the brethren in camp were
engaged during the forenoon in washing,
attending to their personal cleanliness, baking
bread, drying beef, etc.
About noon Brother Appleton M. Harmon
completed the machinery on the wagon
called a roadometer, by adding a wheel to
revolve once in 10 miles. The whole machin-
ery consisted of a shaft about 18 inches long
placed on gudgeons, one in the axletree of
the wagon, near which were six arms placed
at equal distances around it and in which a
cog worked which was fastened to the hub
of the wagon wheel, turning the shaft once
round at every six revolutions of the wagon
wheel. The upper gudgeon played in a piece of
wood nailed to the wagon box, and near this
gudgeon, on the shaft, a screw was cut. The
haft was laid at an angle of about 45 degrees.
In this screw a wheel of 60 cogs worked on an
axle fixed in the side of the wagon and which
made one revolution each mile. In the shaft
on which this wheel ran, four cogs were cut on
the fore part which played on another wheel
of 40 cogs, which showed the miles and quar-
ter miles to 10 miles. The whole was cased
over, so as to secure it from the weather, and
occupied a space of about 18 inches long, 15
inches high, and three inches thick.
Thrust the pioneers were now prepared to
tell accurately the distance they traveled from
day to day, which would supersede the idea
of guessing the distance and be a satisfaction,
not only to the pioneer camp, but to all who
should in the future travel over the same road.
A partial observation of the sun about noon
made by Orson Pratt gave 41 degrees 12 min-
utes 30 seconds as the latitude of the camp.
The place was 41 miles above the junction of
the Platte. In the afternoon the weather was
cloudy.
At 4 p.m. a band of buffalo was seen coming
from the bluffs toward the horses belonging
to the pioneers. Eric Glines went out to drive
them away, and when he came near, the
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
buffalo did not seem much inclined
to move, so he shot at one and
wounded him. As the animal moved
a little farther, Brother Glines
followed and shot three times
more at him. The animal then ran
about forty rods, fell and expired.
The carcass weighed about eight
hundred pounds. The hair on the
forehead was about a foot long and
very shaggy.
At 5 p.m. a meeting was called.
The chief subject treated upon was
that of obeying counsel.
Elder Kimball spoke in his usual
interesting manner and in his re-
marks testified that he had traveled
in many companies and been in
Zion’s Camp which went up to
Missouri in 1834, but he had never
been in a camp or company where
men behaved themselves better
than the pioneers, who were like
clay in the hands of the potter. They
could be made into anything which John Pack
the potter desired, and he said that May 20, 1909, St. Johns, New Brunswick
the Lord was blessing them on their
— April 4, 1885, Salt Lake City
journey and would continue to
do so, that His angels went before
them and guided and directed them, and that brought in and tied up for the night The “Rev-
none of the brethren should fall by the way. enue Cutter” was sent out to fetch the meat
In regard to hunting on the Sabbath day, killed by Eric Glines. It soon returned and the
Elder Kimball said that he would not do it, meat was distributed as usual among the com-
even in case of necessity; yet, he did not feel pany. The buffalo were generally poor at that
inclined to find fault with the brethren. He time of the year, yet Edson Whipple obtained
remarked that the teams of the pioneers were enough fat from his portion of meat, which he
training strength and that the prayers of the had received in the morning of the day before,
saints were being answered. He himself had to make two candles. The candle burned very
prayed that the Indians would turn to the right clear and pleasant and the tallow smelled
and to the left, so that the brethren might pur- sweet and rich. Brother Whipple gave William
sue their journey in peace, and he now asked Clayton half a candle, from the light of which
tha brethren if they could get the sight of an Elder Clayton continued his journal writing.
Indian, to which they answered “No.” William Clayton prepared another board
He also cautioned the brethren not to use to put up here stating that the distance from
profane language as the angel of the Lord Winter Quarters was 556 and three-quarters
would turn away from a man who swore and mile.
took the name of the Lord in vain. The Lord Pioneer John Pack, whose portrait is given
loved a faithful man as a father loved a faithful herewith, was born in St. Johns, New Bruns-
son. wick, May 20, 1809, and died in Salt Lake
The spirit of the Lord rested upon Elder City, April 4, 1885. He was identified with all
Kimball who spoke with great power and the the early movements of the Church, and was
souls of the brethren were cheered. among the first to enter the Salt Lake Valley,
After Elder Kimball had finished his dis- and returning to Emigration Canyon on the
course, Thomas Bullock read the laws and reg- evening of July 23, where he met President
ulations of April 18 in regard to the conduct Young, reported that the companies ahead
of the camp, after which remarks were made had cut their way through the mouth of the
by Stephen Markham. Alber P. Rockwood canyon, entered and explored the valley and
also made a few remarks and pronounced the made selection of ground in which to sow
benediction. some seeds.
At the close of the meeting the cattle were
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 43 • Monday, May 17
The morning was very cold in the pio-
neer camp, with a northwest wind blowing.
Dr. Willard Richards left another letter on
the campground for the benefit of the next
company. The letter was secured from the
weather by a wooden case made by Appleton
M. Harmon and placed in such a conspicuous
place that the brethren could hardly miss
finding it. Thomas Bullock made an extract
from his camp journal and placed it in the box
for the benefit and comfort of the saints who
should follow.
At 8:13 a.m. the pioneers started on their
day’s journey, led by Wilford Woodruff, trav-
eling over a black, loamy soil until they came
to bluffs of sand. After traveling a mile and
a half they arrived at another range of bluffs
which extended to the Platte, and they began
to ascend the same about a quarter of a mile
above the river. A quarter of a mile farther
they crossed a stream of sprint water, about
three feet wide. This stream was named Sprint
Creek by President Young. The brethren had
graded both sides of the ravine through which
it ran.
The road for a short distance on both sides
of the creek was rough, sandy and crooked.
Turning westward from the creek, the pio-
neers passed for the third time that day over
a number of bluffs, as there was no chance of
going around them without traveling miles
out of their course. On these sandy bluffs were
many small lizards.
After traveling two and one-half miles be-
yond the last-mentioned stream, the pioneers
arrived at the west foot of the bluffs, where
they watered their cattle and refreshed their
teams, it being a warm day and a clear sky.
Roswell Stevens caught a young fawn which
Lorenzo D. Young expected to rear.
The last part of the road was very sandy
and there were several very steep places of
descent. However, all the teams got safely
over without difficulty. At the west foot of the
bluffs there appeared to be more grass than
anywhere the pioneers had seen, although the
buffalo had eaten it off considerably.
Within a quarter of a mile from the bluffs
the company crossed two small streams of
water, and at a mile from the foot of the bluffs
they crossed another stream of clear water
with a very rapid current about four feet
wide. In fact, the whole of this bottom seemed
full of springs, and the pioneers had to keep
the bluffs in order to make a good road for
traveling, and even near the bluffs they found
the ground more or less soft and spongy. The
water from these little creeks generally spread
out over the bottom and formed sloughs, as
these marshy places on the prairie are usually
called.
A mile and a quarter west of the last-men-
tioned spring they found another stream of
43
very clear spring water. The water in
the other creeks was rather muddy
after running over sandy land. They all
appeared to rise in the bluffs a short
distance from the road.
After traveling six and three-quarter
miles in a westerly direction during the
forenoon, the noon half was made at
11:35 a.m. 47 and one-half miles above
the junction of the Platte. The encamp-
ment was made about half a mile west
of a stream of water which they had
crossed. Howard Egan and Return Jack-
son Redden went back to the head of
the stream to get some water, and there
they found five boiling springs spouting
up several inches.
The forenoon was warm and
pleasant; it was the first warm day the
pioneers had enjoyed for some time.
At 1 p.m. the pioneers continued
the journey, and after traveling half a
mile they arrived at a shallow stream Ely Harvey Peirce
of water. This stream was forded easily,
after which the company passed over a July 29, 1827, Archland, Pennsylvania
short range of low, sandy bluffs about a — Aug. 12, 1858, Salt Lake City
quarter of a mile wide and then entered
on level prairie again, which, however, they latitude of the evening encampment 41
soon found very soft and springy. degrees 13 minutes and 20 seconds, 53 and
Within two and one-half miles from the three-quarter miles above the junction of the
last-mentioned stream, the pioneers crossed Platte.
two other streams, one very small and the When the hunters in the evening brought
other about four feet wide. They both seemed in three buffaloes, and it detained them some
to rise from springs at the foot of the bluffs. to bring them in, President Young was not
About 3 p.m. word reached the wagons pleased, as the pioneers already had as much
that a buffalo had been killed by the hunters meat in camp as they needed.
about a mile from the road. Two men were The head of Cedar Bluffs as named by
sent to skin and dress it. About the same time John C. Femont, was three miles west of the
the “Revenue Cutter” arrived with two more encampment. These bluffs run up to the river
buffaloes. An antelope also was brought in, and are thinly covered with small cedars.
which had been killed by Amasa M. Lyman. Eli Harvey Peirce, pioneer, was born in
The wagons halted at 3:45 p.m. and the Achland, Chester County, Pennsylvania, July
meat was taken out of the boat, which was 29, 1827. He was one of the youngest mem-
immediately returned to fetch another buffalo bers of the pioneer band, but was nonetheless
which had been killed by Porter Rockwell. actively engaged in all the movements of the
While the cattle were turned out to graze, party. He acted as teamster for President Yong
the meat was cut in quarters and put into the during the latter part of the journey, and later
wagons. in the year returned with President Young
At 4:30 p.m. the company again moved and others, who met, on the road, the second
forward and traveled until 5:50 p.m., when the company of pioneers.
night camp was made on a nice, dry-bottomed Mr. Peirce was one of the company sent
prairie, where the grass was shorter than to California that year to obtain seed grain.
usual. During the day the pioneers traveled 12 On this trip he and his companions suffered
and three-quarter miles in a course nearly due greater hardships than on the pioneer jour-
west, the encampment being made about a ney.
mile from the river. Mr. Peirce married Susannah Neff in 1850,
During the day the pioneers passed about a and in 1851 was made bishop of Brigham City,
dozen streams of very clear water, which came to which place he removed with his family.
from springs in the bluffs. These streams were He died in Salt Lake City, August 12, 1858, a
from one to 10 feet across and ran almost on few days after reaching home from a handcart
top of the ground without any bank at all, with expedition to the Missouri River and back.
hard sand or gravel bottom.
The altitude of the Pole Star gave for the
44
Day 44 • Tuesday, May 18
The morning was fine and pleasant in the
pioneer camp, with a clear sky. About 7 a.m.
the president called the captains of ten to his
wagon and gave them a pretty severe lecture.
He referred to some who had left meat on
the ground and would not ust it because it
was not a hind-quarter. Some would murmur
because a fore-quarter of meat was allotted to
them, which was not right, for God had given
his people commandment that they should
not waste meat, or take life unless it was
useful or needful. But the speaker could see a
disposition in the pioneer camp to slaughter
everything in sight. The meeting was then
dispersed and the meat taken care of.
President Young, Heber C. Kimball and oth-
ers going ahead on horseback, the pioneers
started on their day’s journey at 8:15 a.m.,
first going toward the river and then westward
three and a quarter miles, traveling over a
very hard prairie where the road was good.
They arrived at a nice stream which they
named Rattlesnake Creek, but now called
Whitetail Creek. This creek was named from
the following incident: President Young, as he
rode up to the banks of the creek, discovered
that his horse stepped within a very few rods
of a very large rattlesnake, and he turned
his horse away without harming it. Soon
afterward Thomas Woolsey came up on foot
and stepped within two feet and a half of it.
It immediately coiled up and sprang at him,
but he jumped to one side. Brother John S.
Higbee, at Brother Young’s request, took his
gun and shot off the reptile’s head. The snake
was four and a half feet long and had seven
rattles. The dead snake was then kicked into
the creek when President Young named it
Rattlesnake Creek.
Having crossed this stream, the company
took a northwesterly course over tolerably
rough land until 11:10 a.m. and then stopped
opposite the upper end of Cedar Bluffs, which
are on the south side of the Platte, to feed,
having traveled six and one-half miles during
the forenoon. The weather was very warm.
According to observations made by Profes-
sor Pratt, the latitude of the noon camp was 41
degrees 13 minutes 44 seconds and the longi-
tude 101 degrees 52 seconds. Brother Clayton
reported that they were now 69 and a half
miles from the junction of the north and south
Platte, and as the junction was 333 miles from
Winter Quarters, according to measurement
by his roadometer part of the way.
After the cattle had grazed about an hour,
they were hitched up and the pioneers re-
sumed their journey about 1 p.m., traveling in
a northwesterly direction near the river, which
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
at this point seemed narrower than
in other places. The course was
soon directed towards the bluffs.
After traveling three and half
miles, the pioneers crossed a
stream about six feet wide, and
three-quarters of a mile farther they
crossed another stream tolerably
deep with clear water and about
five feet wide.
After passing the last-mentioned
creek about a mile, the pioneers
had to change their course to a
nearly northwesterly direction on
account of a bend in the river. They
traveled until 5:30 p.m. and formed
their encampment on the west bank
of a running stream about eight feet
wide and one foot deep, which was
about five miles from the crooked
creek met in the afternoon travel,
nine and a half miles from Cedar
Bluffs, or near the junction of two William Carter
small creeks of clear water, making Feb. 12, 1821, Leadbury, England — June 27,
the day’s travel 15 and three-quar- 1896, while on a Southern Utah Mission
ter miles.
The river at this point was very
wide and feed poor, but there was plenty of found them in their order, and also affix the
driftwood, both pine and cedar, for fuel. The names which should be given to the creeks
weather was calm and warm though cloudy. and prominent places.
The cattle were gathered up at dusk and Elder Clayton at once retired to his wagon
immediately afterwards the brethren were to commence operations, but he soon discov-
called together in the middle of the ring and ered that the map did not agree with his own
addressed by Colonels Stephen Markham scale, nor with Brother Pratt’s calculations.
and Albert P. Rockwood. The old laws of April He then proposed to Brother Pratt to wait
18 were talked over and additional by-laws until the pioneers had finished their journey,
suggested. It was decided by unanimous vote take all the necessary data, and then make a
that from this time forth the brethren would new map instead of basing the pioneer map
drive in all the cattle and horses at one time, on Fremont’s map. The subject was left for
and it was also decided by vote that four out further discussion until the following day.
of each ten should go out at the sound of the William Carter, whose portrait is given on
horn for that purpose. President Young then this date, was the son of Thomas and Sarah
stated that the captains of ten ought not to Carter, and was born in Leadbury, Hereford-
leave their companies without leaving a man shire, England, February 12, 1821. He joined
to act in his absence, and they must travel in the Church and emigrated to America in 1841.
companies. He was a member of the “Nauvoo Legion” and
During the night an east wind blew up with in 1847 he started for the Salt Lake Valley in
some rain. Brigham Young’s company.
After the evening encampment was formed, He plowed the first half-acre of ground
Orson Pratt and William Clayton went to Dr. ever turned over in Utah, on the lot where
Willard Richard’s camp, where a consultation afterwards the Hotel Knutsford was built. His
took place about delineating the pioneer route plough is in the Salt Lake Museum now, where
on Fremont’s topographical map, sent by it was placed by President Woodruff at Mr.
Colonel Thomas L. Kane to President Young. It Carter’s request. His family was in possession
was then decided that Brother Clayton should of a miniature plough in 1897, which was
get Professor Orson Pratt’s observations made for an exhibition in Salt Lake City.
and then the course of the road by Brother He was called to the southern Utah mission
Clayton’s roadometer measurement, showing in 1861. Here he resided until his death on
the bluffs and each creek as the pioneers had June 27, 1896.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 45 • Wednesday, May 19
The morning was cloudy and somewhat
gloomy in the pioneer camp. It had begun
raining about midnight and continued until
morning, when an easterly wind was blowing.
About 1 o’clock in the night Howard Egan
got up to put Heber C. Kimball’s saddle and
other things which would be damaged by rain
under the wagons when he observed Brother
R. Jackson Reddon, who was captain of the
guard, going around with some of his men
picking up harnesses and other things lying
around the damp and putting them under cov-
er. Howard Egan remarks that Brother Redden
was a faithful and praiseworthy man who
worked for the good of the camp.
Inasmuch as the feed was not good at this
camping place, it was thought best to move
a few miles before breakfast and seek better
feed. Consequently the camp started about 5
a.m.
The company traveled two and three-
fourths miles, the course being eleven and
one-fourth degrees north of west, and then
crossed a stream three feet wide. The course
of travel lay within about one-quarter of a
mile from the bluffs and a mile from the river
which at this place took a bend south from
where the pioneers camped the night before
and ran close to the bluffs on the south side.
The course of travel was then changed to a
little west of northwest, as the river bent again
to the bluffs on the north side. After the ad-
vance teams had traveled a quarter of a mile
farther, a halt was made for breakfast at 6:20
a.m. after traveling three and a quarter miles.
The main body of the camp, however, stopped
a quarter of a mile back near a marshy place,
where there were several small lakes, ponds
and streams of water abounding with many
ducks, etc.
Heber C. Kimball and others had traveled
ahead to look out the road. Elder Kimball
had found that the bluffs projected entirely
to the river and were very sandy, but that the
pioneers could cross them without going out
of their course. It continued to rain a little
occasionally during the day, with a light north
wind blowing.
Having stopped over two hours, the
journey continued at 8:40 a.m. The advance
company proceeded onward a little and then
awaited until the rest of the camp came up.
After traveling about a mile and a half over
a sandy plain, they crossed a stream about
twenty feet wide. This stream was called Wolf
Creek from the following circumstance: When
Elder Kimball went ahead in the morning on
horseback to search for a road, he went up
the creek about a mile and around over the
bluffs to find, if possible, a better road than
45
the one close to the river. While he
was searching about a mile north of
the river, he went down into a deep
hollow surrounded by high bluffs,
and as he was riding along the
bottom he turned his head to the
left and saw two very large wolves
at about five rods distance gazing
at him. One of them, he said,was
nearly as large as a two-year-old
steer. Seeing these two animals,
he looked around and saw several
other very large wolves about the
same distance from him, all gazing
fiercely at him. This startled him
considerably and more especially
when he reflected that he had no
arms. He made a noise, trying to
scare the wolves away, but as they
stood still he concluded to move
away himself as soon as he could.
They did not follow him, and as he
saw a dead carcass nearby he was
satisfied that he had interrupted William A. Empey
their repast. When Elder Kimball July 4, 1808, Osnabrook, Canada —
mentioned this circumstance to
Aug. 19, 1890, St. George, Utah
President Young they named the
creek Wolf Creek.
After traveling a mile and half farther, the soon after starting rain fell again heavily. The
foot of the bluffs was reached and the breth- pioneers traveled two miles and then formed
ren commenced to ascend without doubling their encampment for the night in a semicir-
teams. Some of the teams stuck on the road, cle on the banks of the Platte, having traveled
but by the assistance of the extra tem they all eight miles during the day.
got over. These bluffs were very high, andy Rain continued to pour down heavily and
and rough and the wagon wheels cut down Elder Clayton remarks that it was the most
deep into the sand, making it heavy pulling uncomfortable day the pioneers had yet expe-
for the teams. The train passed over a circu- rienced on their journey and also the hardest
itous route over the bluffs and then descend- one on their teams.
ed to the bottoms, where another creek was William A. Empey was a pioneer in every
crossed. From the east foot to the west foot of sense of the word. He not only was a member
the bluffs the distance was three-quarters of of Brigham Young’s company, but after ar-
a mile along the nearly straight trail made by riving in the valley he was always among the
the pioneers. About 200 yards west from the first to pioneer his way into other localities.
foot of the bluffs they crossed a stream five He was one of the earliest settlers of Cedar
feet wide. City and its neighborhood, and also settled the
It rained heavily all the time since the Bear River country in the early days. He was
company started out after breakfast and con- born in Osnabrook, Stormont County, Canada,
tinued. Consequently, at 10:30 a.m. the camp July 4, 1808, and died in St. George, August
formed into platoons and then halted to wit 19, 1890, to which place he had removed on a
for more favorable weather, having traveled call to the southern Utah mission.
six miles during the forenoon over the worst In the pioneer band he was a notable
road the pioneers had known since they left member, for he never was known to refuse to
Winter Quarters, and was rendered perhaps answer to the call of duty. He was noted for
worse on account of the heavy rain. his integrity, and many of those who were as-
At this place the pioneers found some good sociated with him in his life fondly remember
grass for the animals. him. He was the father of Bishop Nelson A.
About 2:30 p.m. the weather looked a little Empey of the Thirteenth Ward, who was also
more favorable and the rain having ceased, one of the prominent men of Salt Lake City.
the cattle were again hitched up, and at 4
p.m. the camp was once more on its way, but
46
Day 46 • Thursday, May 20
The morning was fair, but cloudy in the
pioneer camp, with a slight cold wind blowing
from the northwest.
After grazing, the cattle were gathered
up, and at 7:45 a.m. the pioneers continued
their journey, but they had not traveled over a
quarter of a mile before the roadometer gave
way on account of the rain the previous day,
causing the wood to swell. One of the cogs in
the small wheel had broken off. The wagon
with the roadometer was stopped about half
an hour, while Appleton M. Harmon took
the roadometer to pieces and put it up again
without the small wheel. William Clayton had
to count each mile after that until the machine
was repaired.
The company, after traveling three-quarters
of a mile from the previous night’s encamp-
ment, crossed a creek eight feet wide and
two and a half feet deep. The course was then
changed to nearly a southwesterly direction
for a mile or so, following the bank of the
river, as the ground was wet and swampy
near the bluffs. Here the river wound about
three miles in a bend and struck a little north
of west. The bluffs on the north side at this
point appeared to be about two miles from the
river. The weather was cold and the brethren
suffered considerably from the effects of the
cold weather.
About 10 a.m. the company passed a lone
cedar tree which had in it the body of an Indi-
an child, which was wrapped in a thin layer of
straw, then two wrappers of deer skin covered
with a buffalo robe; the whole was lashed
to the tree with rawhide bands; it had two
spoons, a horn and a shot pouch attached to it.
At 11:25 a.m. the company halted for noon
to feed, having traveled seven and three-
fourths miles over a tolerably good road,
though at the commencement somewhat
soft. Tall grass was thinly scattered over the
ground at this place.
On the opposite side of the river from the
encampment the bluffs projected nearly to its
banks. They were rugged and almost perpen-
dicular and beautified for miles by groves of
timber. Directly opposite the halting place the
pioneers could see a ravine running up the
bluffs, and at the foot a flat bottom of about
fifteen acres. At the farther side of this bottom
was a grove of trees not yet in leaf. Brother
John Brown thought these trees were ash,
and that the place was what was called Ash
Hollow, or on Fremont’s map Ash Creek.
The pioneers also noticed three islands in
the river a short distance west, having a heavy
growth of cedars on them. They were very
anxious to know if this place was Ash Hollow,
where the Oregon Trail struck for the river, for
if that was the case, they would have a better
opportunity of testing Fremont’s distances
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
to Fort Laramie. They had already
ascertained that Fremont’s map
was not perfect in several respects,
especially in showing the windings
of the river and the distance from it
to the bluffs.
It was suggested that some
persons should cross the river in
the “Revenue Cutter.” The boat was
soon hauled to the river, where
Orson Pratt, Amas M. Lyman, Luke
S. Johnson, and John Brown started
to row across, but as the current
was so exceedingly swift, the oars
had no effect. Brother Brown then
jumped into the river, which was
about two and a half feet deep, and
dragged the boat over, the others
assisting with oars. After some hard
labor the four brethern reached
the opposite shore and went to the
hollow.
They soon found the Oregon
Trail and thus ascertained that the
place was really Ash Hollow. Broth-
er Brown had traveled that road
to within a short distance of Fort
Laramie the previous season with Charles D. Barnum
the Mississippi company of saints May 9, 1800, Leeds County, Canada
and knew that place perfectly well. — Sept. 9, 1894, Salt Lake City
The brethren found the grave of an
Oregon emigrant whom Brother
Brown had assisted to bury the previous year. much the appearance of castellated towers
About 2 p.m., as soon as the four brethren and looked very handsome and romantic. One
had returned from their visit across the river, of them, according to the brethren, looked like
the pioneers continued the journey. The Solomon’s Temple; these bluffs were named
company followed the course fo the river, and Castle Bluffs.
about one and quarter miles above Ash Hol- At 5:30 p.m. encampment was made for the
low there were several small islands on which night near the river, where there was plenty of
grew many cedar trees. water, feed and wood. The company had trav-
After traveling three and one-quarter miles eled eight miles in the afternoon, or 15 and
from their noon stop, the pioneers crossed a three-quarter miles during the day. A shower
tributary of the Platte (Castle Creek, or Blue of rain passed over the camp just before the
Creek), which was from four to eight rods night halt was made.
wide and two and two and half feet deep Erastus Snow remarked that after 148 peo-
most of the way across. It was a very crooked ple, 73 teams, and 17 cows had passed over
stream with quicksand at the bottom, a rapid the country they left a very good trail behind
current and the water being of a sandy color them.
like that of the Platte. Charles D. Barnum of the pioneer band was
The brethren rushed the teams through at a Canadian, having been born near Brockville,
a rapid rate, and in quick succession, getting Leeds County, Canada, May 9, 1800. He was
through safely and making the road better for an excellent stone mason, and did the first
the last team. Some of them had to dou- quarrying on the temple at Nauvoo. He came
ble-team to get over. to Salt Lake City with the pioneers, and re-
This large stream was named Castle Creek turned to Winter Quarters the same year. He
from the formation of the bluffs on the oppo- came to the valley a second time in 1850, and
site side of the river; it is now (1934) called located in the Fifteenth Ward, where he resid-
Blue Creek. ed until his death, which occurred in Salt Lake
After getting safely across this stream, the City, September 9, 1894. He was conspicuous
pioneers proceeded about four miles farther in all the early buildings being erected in the
up and found that the river bent considerably city, and held many Church offices.
to the north. The bluffs on the south side had
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 47 • Friday, May 21
The day opened with a pleasant morning
in the pioneer camp, though tolerably cold. A
gentle wind blew from the south and the sky
was clear.
Before leaving the campground Willaim
Clayton put up a guide post at this place
with the following inscription upon it: “From
Winter Quarters 409 miles; from the junction
of the North and South Forks [of the Platte]
93¼ miles; from Cedar Bluffs, south of the
river, 36½ miles; Ash Hollow, south side of the
river, 8 miles. Camp of pioneers May 21, 1847.
According to Fremont, this place is 132 miles
from Laramie, N.B.: The bluffs opposite are
named Castle Bluffs.”
At 7:35 a.m. the pioneers continued their
journey. In traveling they found the prairie
rather wet with many ponds of water standing
which was believed to have been caused by
the heavy fall of rain which here seemed to
have been heavier than where the pioneers
had camped the previous night. Yet the travel-
ing was pretty good and the company made a
fairly straight road in going, about a mile from
the river. Some marshy places were encoun-
tered, but the remainder of the road consisted
of clay intermingled with sand.
At 11:20 ja.m. the camp halted to feed the
teams where there was pretty good grass, after
having traveled nearly seven and three-fourth
mils in a course north of northwest. The
weather was warm and there was no wind.
At 1:30 p.m. the company proceeded
onward and found the prairie wet and the
previous year’s growth of grass high. Thomas
Bullock remarks that during the afternoon the
company listened to several frog symphonies
in different sloughs as they passed along.
The train went over a gentle bluff and then
crossed a dry creek, where Dr. Richards found
upon the prairie a large petrified bone of a
large animal belonging probably to the mam-
moth or some other species. It was a curious
specimen of ancient zoology and Elder Pratt
remarked that had circumstances permitted it
was worthy of preservation.
After traveling four and three-quarter miles
the pioneers arrived at a range of low bluffs
projecting to the river, which at this place bent
to the north. There was, however, a bottom
about a rod wide between the bluffs and the
river, but as it was wet and soft, the pioneers
preferred to cross over the bluffs bending a
little to the north. The company traveled on
the bluffs a little over a quarter of a mile and
then turned to the bottom again. At this point
47
the bluffs were low and almost
as level at the bottom. After
crossing the bluffs they found
the road better.
At 5 p.m. Elder Heber C.
Kimball rode up and stopped
the forward teams until the last
wagons got near, reporting that
some Indians had come down
from the bluffs on horseback
to the brethren ahead. When
the rest of the wagons came
up the whole company moved
a quarter of a mile farther and
at 5:30 p.m. an encampment
was formed for the night in a
circle, with the wagons as close
together as possible, having
traveled seven and three-fourth
miles in the afternoon and 15½
miles during the day.
While the camp was being
formed, two Indians, a man
and his squaw, rode nearer the Robert T. Thomas
wagons, while several other
Indians were seen peeping
Jan. 8, 1822, Richmond, North Carolina
over the edge of the hill. They — Feb. 28, 1892, Provo, Utah
represented by signs that they
were Sioux and that a party of them were on of west.
the bluffs north of the camp and not far dis- During the day the pioneers saw eight or
tant. By the aid of glasses the pioneers could ten buffalo. They had seen only a very few of
see several Indians on the bluffs with their these animals for several days. They also saw
ponies, evidently watching the movements some deer and antelope.
of the pioneers. The man mentioned was The day had seemed more like spring
hunting when first seen and appeared afraid than any since the pioneers had left Winter
when he saw the brethren. He wore a good Quarters. It was not only warm and pleasant,
cloth coat and was dressed in white man’s but on every hand the ears of the pioneers
clothes. The squaw fled toward the bluffs as were greeted for the first time with the music
fast as her horse could carry her, but by signs of the little quadrupeds in the numerous
made to them two Indians gathered courage little ponds along the bottom. The season was
and came up. President Young gave orders not evidently about three weeks later in this part
to bring them into camp, so they soon rode off of the country than in the same latitude on the
to the bluffs. Missouri River. The pioneers set the dry grass
The day being war, some of the teams gave on fire.
out while traveling. The brethren could see Robert T. Thomas was one of the pioneer
some timber on the bluffs on the other side of band. He was in the eighteen, under Seth Taft,
the river a few miles ahead. This was the first and another of his companions was Charles
timber they had seen for weeks, except some D. Barnum, whose portrait was printed
small cedar and the timber in Ash Hollow, all yesterday. Mr. Thomas was in the advance
on the south side of the river. company that interred the valley of the Great
As the night encampment was made nearly Salt Lake several days before the main party.
a mile from water, the brethren had to dig He became identified in many ways with the
wells to obtain a supply of water. The feed at early settlement of the city and subsequently
this place was very poor, as there was scarcely moved to Provo to settle, at which place he
anything but old grass. The course of travel died February 28, 1892
during the afternoon had been a little north
48
Day 48 • Saturday, May 22
The morning was warm and beautiful in
pioneer camp, with a clear sky overhead. A
gentle wind blew from the southeast. All was
peace in camp and there had been no distur-
bance of Indians during the night.
About 8 a.m. the pioneers continued their
journey, making a more cooked road than
usual, having to bend southward and keep
near the banks of the river, as the prairie
was somewhat soft and a little uneven. The
company traveled through a large patch of dry
weeds about seven feet high and crossed a dry
creek at 9:20 a.m.
About 11 a.m. the pioneers crossed another
shallow creek called Crab Creek (now called
Cold Water Creek), because some of the breth-
ren saw a very large carb in it.
The pioneers traveled until 11:30 a.m. and
then halted for noon, having traveled seven
and one-half miles on a good road. Their
course was a little west of northwest and
during the forenoon a slight breeze blew from
the east. A meridian observation of the sun
gave the latitude as 41 degrees 30 minutes
3 seconds, 30¾ miles above the mouth of
Ash Creek. The camp halted in two different
divisions, feed being rather scarce.
Soon after the noon halt was made, Porter
Rockwell came in and said that he had as-
cended on the bluff about a mile northwest of
the camp and had seen the formation called
Chimney Rock, which appeared a long dis-
tance off. In order to satisfy himself, William
Clayton took his telescope and ascended the
bluffs, starting out alone at 12:30 p.m. After
reaching the top, he found a nice, slightly
arched surface of about a quarter of an acre
in extent, but barren and with very little grass
upon it. On the highest point he sat down and
took a view of the surrounding country, which
he stated was magnificent indeed. Looking
west, the course of the Platte was seen for 10
or 15 miles, and at about four or five miles
distant a large bend to the north brought the
river in contact with the bluffs on the north
side. At a distance of about 20 miles he could
see Chimney Rock plainly with the naked eye,
and from his point of observation it resem-
bled the large factory chimneys of England,
although he could not distinguish the form
of its base. Elder Clayton then walked down
to where he thought wagons would come and
there he joined them.
At 1:45 p.m. the pioneer company rolled
out from their noon encampment, and, con-
tinuing their westward travel, near the bluffs,
they passed through a very large patch of
southernwood, succeeded by a great quantity
of prickly pear. The then pulled over several
ridges and valleys of sand, after which they
commenced to ascend a high hill between two
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
pyramids, the nearest to the river
being called Gravelly Point. During
this time a hare hunt was going on
by some of the brethren.
After a toilsome march, the
pioneers succeeded in getting over
the hills without doubling teams.
Looking up the river a splendid
view was had of some rocks which
had the appearance of round and
square towers, obelisks, chim-
neys, etc., and all the appearance
of ancient ruins. President Young
named these curious formations
Bluff Ruins.
On the afternoon journey the pio-
neers crossed a dry creek, about six
rods wide, and a quarter of a mile
farther another about five feet wide;
half a mile farther they crossed a
creek six feet wide on an average.
As soon as the pioneers had
crossed the last stream, the wagons,
directed by Elder Kimbal, turned
to the north, in order to cross the Thomas Grover
bluffs which struck the river a little July 22, 1807, Whitehall, New York
farther on. — Feb. 20, 1886, Farmington, Utah
A little distance farther some of
the brethren crossed another dry
creek, about six rods wide, and then ascended threatened the camp with a deluge of rain, but
the bluffs. The ascent was pretty steep for it passed a little east of the camp.
about half a mile, and the wagons had to wind The evening was spent very joyfully in
about four some distance, in order to keep the pioneer camp by most of the brethren.
around the foot of the bluffs, crossing the dry It being moonlight, a number danced until
creek three times before they emerged from the bugle sounded at 9 o’clock. A mock trial
the bluff to the bank of the river. was prosecuted in the case of “The Camp vs.
After crossing another dry creek,the James Davenport” for blockading the highway
pioneers found themselves once more on the and turning ladies out of their course. R. Jack-
prairie bottom. son Redden acted as presiding judge, Elder
On rounding and descending the bluff, the Whipple as attorney of defendant and Luke S.
pioneers came in full view of Chimney Rock Johnson, attorney for the people. Many other
on the south side of the river, about 40 miles such trials had been held in camp from time
westward. to time with amusing results.
Descending a sand hill and crossing the Thomas Grover of the pioneer band was
sandy bed of a river about three rods wide born in Whitehall, Washington County, New
twice, the pioneers found themselves on the York, July 22, 1807. He was identified with
lowlands again, about 20 rods from the river, all the early movements of the Church, and
about 6 p.m., and traveling a short distance among the first to declare himself in readiness
farther the night encampment was formed in to start for the mountains. He left Nauvoo
a circle on one of the last creeks between the February 9, 1847, and on arriving at Winter
bluffs and the river, about a quarter of a mile Quarters he was selected as one of the first
from the river, about a quarter of a mile from company of pioneers. When the Platte River
the river, having traveled in the afternoon was finally crossed, however, he was one of
eight and one-quarter miles and during the a party left there to ferry over the stream the
day 15½ miles, thus making the distance from following companies; consequently, he was
Winter Quarters 440 miles traveled in five behind the others in entering the valley.
weeks and three and a half days. He lived in Salt Lake City for a short time,
On top of one of the apparent towers, and then settled in Centerville, where he
Brothers George R. Grant and Horace K. Whit- raised one crop; then he moved to Farming-
ney caught a young gray eagle and brought ton, being one of its first settlers. He died
it to camp. A terrible yellow-looking cloud there February 20, 1886.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 49 • Sunday, May 23
The morning was fine and pleasant in the
pioneer camp and there was a clear sky.
After breakfast (at 9:25 a.m.) President
Young and Elders Heber C. Kimball, Willard
Richards, Orson Pratt, Wilford Woodruff,
George A. Smith, Ezra T. Benson, and Amasa
M. Lyman walked out to visit the bluff ruins
northeast of camp. Orson Pratt took a baro-
metrical observation on the only tree (a red
cedar) at the southeast end of the bluff. He
found that the point was 235 feet higher than
the river, and 3,590 feet above sea level. From
this point the brethren had a fair view of
Chimney Rock.
About 11 a.m. Nathaniel Fairbanks came
into camp, having been bitten on the leg by
a rattlesnake. He went on the bluffs with
Aaron F. Farr and Benjamin Rolfe, and as they
jumped off from the bluff the snake bit him,
the other brethren having jumped over the
reptile. Brother Fairbanks reported that in two
minutes after he was bitten his tongue began
to prick and feel numb. The brethren imme-
diately applied some tobacco leaves and tur-
pentine and bound tobacco on his leg. Which
by this time was considerably swollen. The
brethren also administered to him and Luke S.
Johnson administered a dose of lobelia after
he had given him a strong drink of alcohol and
water. The lobelia soon caused him to vomit
powerfully. He complained much of sickness
at his stomach and dimness in his eyes and he
appeared to be in much pain.
At noon the camp was called together for
a meeting. The pioneers were addressed by
Elder Erastus Snow, followed by President
Young. The president was pleased to see so
much union and a disposition to obey counsel
among the brethren, and he hoped and prayed
that it might continue and increase. He want-
ed the brethren to seek after knowledge and
be willing to acknowledge God in all things,
but never take His name in vain, or use pro-
fane language.
George A. Smith and several others of the
brethren made remarks.
According to Orson Pratt’s deductions, the
camp was at latitude 41 degrees 33 minutes 3
seconds, or 39 miles above the mouth of Ash
Creek.
Soon after the meeting Elder Willaim
Clayton walked out with Elder Kimball, and a
short distance from camp Elder Clayton read
49
his journal for the past four
days, which seemed to please
Elder Kimball. The two elders
then knelt down together and
poured out their souls. In
prayer.
After the meeting Luke S.
Johnson and Thomas Bullock
mounted the top of a bluff,
which was named “Observation
Bluff,” in order to engrave on
a cedar tree the altitude under
Professor Pratt’s name. The
altitude was 235 feet above the
Platte River. While on top of the
bluff a rattlesnake challenged
the two brethren to battle. As
the snake continued shaking its
rattles, Brother Johnson put his
rival to his shoulder and bang
went the snake’s head, his body
also being cut in two pieces.
The snake had seven rattles.
After writing their names on Perry Fitzgerald
the rock, Brothers Bullock and
Johnson descended from the
Dec. 22, 1815, Fayette County, Pennsylvania
bluffs. On the way they found a — Oct. 4, 1889, Salt Lake City
mammoth bone embedded in
the soil. After laboring some time ineffectu- Mr. Papau, a trapper, had related a circum-
ally to dig it up, they broke off two pieces and stance which had taken place several years
brought them to camp. These pieces were very previous in that same part of the country.
white and hard. The petrified bone, which One day, while traveling down this fork of
they discovered in the neighborhood of the the Platte, the weather being warm, and the
bluffs, was about two feet wide, but they could grass ten inches high, it began to rain in the
not discover the length of it. afternoon and turned cold in the evening, and
The day was lovely until 3 p.m., when the before morning 16 of his best horses were
weather suddenly changed to a severe wind- frozen to death by the side of the wagons, and
storm. The clouds gathered very dark and his boats froze into the ice in the river.
before the two brethren could return to camp Elder Woodruff, remembering this circum-
the wind blew almost a hurricane, succeeded stance related above, covered all his horses
by hail, rain, thunder and lightning, which with blankets as well as he could, and got
continued until almost sunset. up several times in the night to see if all was
This taught the brethren the necessity of well with them. It rained occasionally during
having good, stout bows to their wagons and the night and the horses shook with cold,
the covers well fastened down, for the very but when morning came they were all alive.
stoutest covers seemed in danger of being The rain ceased about 10 p.m., but the wind
torn to pieces and the wagons blown over. continued to blow all night.
When the wind began to blow so strongly The portrait with today’s recital is that of
the weather turned very cold. Indeed, the Perry Fitzgerald, one of the pioneers in John S.
weather had turned so cold that the brethren Higbee’s company of ten. He was born Decem-
had fears for the safety of their animals. Such ber 22, 1815, in Fayette County Pennsylvania,
sudden changes are frequent in that part of and died at Draper, Salt Lake County, October
the country. 4, 1889.
50
Day 50 • Monday, May 24
The morning was cold and cloudy in the
pioneer camp and a north breeze was blow-
ing, the cold being sufficient to freeze clothing
stiff when laid on the ground to dry. Brother
Fairbanks, who was bitten by a rattlesnake the
day before, was a little easier, but his leg was
considerably swollen.
Orson Pratt made an observation and found
that this camp was 3,370 feet above sea level.
About 8 a.m. the pioneers took leave of this
interesting region and traveled over a some-
what sandy, though level, prairie about ten
miles, taking almost a straight course toward
Chimney Rock. A noon halt was made at 12:45
p.m. near the river to feed the animals. At this
point the bluffs on the north were about two
miles from the camp and one mile from the
river.
About noon the weather began to moder-
ate and grow warmer and about 3 p.m. the
journey was continued, the pioneers pursuing
a straight course toward Chimney Rock over a
level road.
On approaching the river they saw a band
of Sioux Indians riding on the gallop in the
direction of the pioneer company, but on the
opposite side of the river. Seeing them, the
pioneers sent a messenger ahead to instruct
the forward teams to halt and commenced
forming a circle for defense about a quarter of
a mile from the river.
At 5:45 p.m. the camp was nearly formed,
but could not be completed until about half
an hour later, in consequence of John Pack,
Horace K. Whitney, and others having loitered
behind with their teams. The distance trav-
eled in the afternoon was six and half miles
and during the day 16½ miles. Several of the
horse teams gave out during the day’s travel,
but the oxen were gaining in strength daily.
The mules stood the gurney w3ell and this
might be said of all the teams, considering the
scarcity of grass.
When the Indians approached, Wilford
Woodruff was riding about two miles ahead
of the company to find a camping place, and
on his return he saw about 30 Sioux Indians
plunge their horses into the river on the south
side and come toward him. Together with
several others, Brother Woodruff rode to the
river and met them as they came out. The In-
dians shook hands with the brethren in a very
friendly manner. The chief unfurled a large
flag and presented a letter written in French
to Elder Woodruff.
After making their encampment the
brethren in camp discovered that the Indians
on the south bank of the river were flying a
white flag, which was their mode of finding
out if they would be admitted into the pioneer
camp. President Young proposed that a man
be sent up the river with a white flag to meet
them. Colonel Albert P. Rockwood and Henry
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
G. Sherwood went
and when the Indians
saw this white flag,
emblematic of peace,
they commenced to
cross the river, some of
them singing, and after
they had placed their
flag on the ground the
brethren place flag by
the side of it and began
to make inquiries as
to the intentions of the
INdians, who by this
time had crossed the
river on their ponies
Chimney Rock on the Platte
to the number of about (After the early sketches made of the famous landmark)
35 men, women, and
children.
The chief then
showed two letters of recommendation After the five who were visiting the pioneer
written in French. One was addressed to camp had smoked the pipe of peace, the
“Owashtecha ou belle journee” and signed by chiefs were treated to supper in camp and
“P. D. Papau.” The other was to “Our Brave” after they had viewed the camp they returned
or “Brave Bear” and signed at Fort John, to their horses and the rest of the party, which
December 24, 1846. The chief, “Owashtecha,” had camped on the river about a quarter of a
had a large medal hung around his neck with mile west of the pioneer camp.
“Pierre Chauteau Jun. & Co.” inscribed on The chief and his squaw signified a wish
one side and “Upper Mission Outfit,” with the to abide with the pioneers overnight. The
bust of a man in the center. On the reverse pretheren fixed up a tent for them to sleep
side was engraved “Peace and Friendship.” under. Porter Rockwell made them some
“Brave Bear” had in his hand a flag bearing coffee and they were also furnished with some
the stripes and eagle with “E Pluribus Unum,” victuals. The old chief amused himself by
but there were no stars on the Indian banner, looking at the moon through a telescope for
which is emblematic of America encouraging about 20 minutes.
the Indians, but giving no stars of glory to the Opposite the camp, on the south side of the
sons of the prairie. river, the pioneers could see a very large rock
It was soon ascertained that the object of which resembled a castle four stories high,
their visit was to obtain something to eat and but in a state of ruins. The scenery around
they also wanted to visit the camp. Five of was altogether pleasant and romantic.
them were conducted around the camp by The camp on Monday night afforded a full
Colonel Markham and Rockwood. They were view of Chimney Rock, which was only a few
shown a six and 15-shooter and also the can- miles westward. Captain Stansbury describes
non; the gunners went through the evolutions it as a singular formation that had at one time
a number of times, which seemed to please been a portion of the main chain of bluffs
the Indians much. bounding the valley of the Platte and had been
The natives were all well dressed and separated from it by the action of the water. It
very noble looking, some having good, clean consisted of a conical elevation about 100 feet
blankets and other nice robes, artistically high and from its apex arose a shaft about 40
ornamented with beads and painting. All had feet high, the whole being caused by disinte-
many ornaments on their clothing and in their gration of the softer portions of the bluffs.
ears. Some had painted shells suspended from It was the most famous landmark of the old
their ears. All appeared to be well armed with overland journey and when reaching it the
muskets. Their moccasins were clean and weary pioneer knew that nearly one-half the
beautifully made and one of them had a pair journey had been consumed between the Mis-
of moccasins of clear white ornamented with souri River and the Salt Lake Valley. Situation
beads, etc., and they all fitted very tight to the as it was, it could be easily seen for miles on
foot. William Clayton said that as to cleanli- either side of it, which added to its value as a
ness and neatness, these Indians would vie landmark and guide to western immigration.
with them most tasteful whites. The brethren Chimney Rock is situated on the south side
contributed something to eat, which was sent of the Platte, not far from the boundary line of
to their camp. Some tobacco was also given Nebraska and Wyoming.
to them.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 51 • Tuesday, May 25
A severe frost had prevailed during the
night in the pioneer camp. Some damp clothes
left out overnight were covered with a thick
frost called black frost. The morning, however,
was fine and pleasant, with a clear sky.
Quite early in the morning most of the
Indians, men, women, and children, who had
camped about a mile from the pioneer en-
campment, came into camp with their ponies,
and marched around, mostly trying to obtain
something to eat. Several little barters were
made with them for moccasins, etc. and John
S. Higbee traded ponies with one of them.
They had some good ponies and also some
inferior ones.
The Indians, both male and female, were
again neatly dressed and very tidy. They
looked cheerful and seemed pleased to have
the opportunity of visiting the pioneer camp.
They remained near the camp from sunrise
until the pioneers started, going just about
where their curiosity led them.
One of the chiefs, Wash-te-ha, was very
pressing for a written paper, and Thomas
Bullock wrote and gave him the following:
“This is to certify that Wash-te-ha, one of the
Dakota Tribe of Indians, with Owashtecha, the
principal chief, and 33 other men, women and
children, visited our camp on the 24th and
25th of May, 1847; they behaved themselves
civilly and peaceably; we gave them bread;
they were friendly to us and the best behaved
Indians we have yet seen. W. Richards. Thom-
as Bullock, scribe.”
After this certificate was given to Wash-
te-ha, the Indians shook hands, mounted
their horses and rode to the river, which they
crossed as on the day before.
The pioneer cattle were gathered up as the
Indians were leaving the camp, and the com-
pany started at 8:30 a.m., going three-fourths
of a mile over a large sand hill.
One mile from where they started the
pioneers began to ascend a low range of bluffs
to avoid a large, high sandy ridge which pro-
jected to the river. They traveled on this bluff
three-quarters of a mile, and then descended
again to the level prairie.
About 9:30 a.m. the company stopped to
bait on a green patch of grass, near several
small ponds of water after having traveled
two and half miles, mostly in a northwesterly
direction around the bend of the river. The sun
was not, the road sandy and teaming hard.
At noon Orson Pratt took the meridian alti-
tude of the sun, which showed the camp to be
at latitude 41 degrees 41 minutes 46 seconds,
or 60¾ miles above the mouth of Ash Creek.
He also decided that the camp was 3,371 feet
above sea level.
The journey continued at 11 a.m., the
pioneers taking a straight course. They halted
at 1:30 p.m. to refresh their teams, after having
51
traveled four and three-fourths
miles over a low, soft prairie
bottom, the appearance of
which made the brethren
believe that there must have
been a very heavy rain recently
at this point. It had been hard
pulling up to this time.
In traveling, the pioneers
had seen no game for several
days, except a few antelope
and hares. It seemed the
buffalo had left this region of
country; in fact, there were but
few signs of any ever having Charles Shumway, Aug. 1, 1806, Oxford,
been there. The feed was poor, Massachusetts — May 21, 1898, Shumway,
the grass being mostly of the Arizona; Andrew Shumway, Feb. 20, 1833,
previous year’s growth, and Millbury, Massachusetts — June 12, 1909,
very short. One of the hunters Franklin, Idaho
killed an antelope, which was
divided among the captains
of ten. have been deceived by distances seen with the
About 3 p.m. another start was made, and naked eye. We see things much more clearly
the traveling continued in almost a straight here in the east, on account of the atmo-
line, Dr. Willard Richards picking out the road sphere.”
until within half a mile of the camping ground. Today’s portrait is of two of the prominent
The teams turned around to the right instead pioneers, Charles Shumway and his son,
of the left, where the doctor was, and halted Andrew P. Shumway. The likeness of Charles
at 5:30 p.m. in good grass, but pon a wet, soft is from a tintype taken in 1868, and the cut of
bottom, having traveled during the afternoon Andrew is from an English photograph taken
four and half miles, and during the day 12 in 1871. Both were sent to The Tribune in
miles. 1897 by Charles Shumway, who was at that
The camp halted northeast by north about time a resident of Shumway, Navajo County,
five miles from Chimney Rock, after expe- Arizona.
riencing a warm day, during which a slight From the records, it would appear that the
breeze blew from the southwest. Orson Pratt Shumways were pioneers in every sense of the
took an observation to ascertain the height of word, for each year found them in a new local-
Chimney Rock, which appeared only two miles ity. Not only did they come with the pioneers,
distant, but in reality was five miles away. Charles being captain of the sixth ten, in which
While Dr. Richards was picking out the his son also traveled, but they were the most
road, he saw a rattlesnake in his path. He fired willing of all the newcomers to Utah in starting
at it three times, but it dodged each time. The off at the word of command to settle a new
fourth time, however, he fired at the body, country, and in this way they have been iden-
cutting it in two. tified with the early history of all the country
For the first three miles of the afternoon from Idaho to Mexico. In 1849 Charles was
drive the roads were good, but the last half one of the three original settlers of Sanpete
was wet and soft with numerous pools of County, from which county he was returned as
water standing all around caused by recent legislator in 1851. Andrew was long a resident
heavy rains. This made a good harbor for frogs of Cache Valley, and both were well known in
which, by their music, seemed to be enjoying Salt Lake City, where they resided once, and
themselves. where they had many old friends.
The soil on this lowland was of a soft marly Charles Shumway was born in Oxford
formation and caused the water to stand in Worcester County, Massachusetts, August 1,
ponds and pools. The course traveled during 1806, and Andrew Purley Shumway was born
the day was about northwest. in Millbury, same county, February 20, 1833.
During the evening another antelope was A distinction belonging to Charles is that he
brought in by the hunters. The evening was was the very first man to cross the Mississippi
fine, and the brethren enjoyed themselves River to come west during the exodus from
until after 9 o’clock in dancing. Illinois. This was on February 4, 1846. Charles
Speaking of Chimney Rock, Erastus Snow Shumway died at Shumway, near Snowflake,
said: “We have traveled 36 miles since we Arizona, May 21, 1898, and Andrew P. Shum-
first saw it; it then seemed to be only 20 miles way died June 12, 1909 at Franklin, Oneida
away. This is not the first instance when we County, Idaho.
52
Day 52 • Wednesday, May 26
The morning was very fine and pleasant
in the pioneer camp — a delightful sprint
morning.
While Thomas Bullock was engaged in
filling Dr. Willard Richards’ water bottle his
ink bottle fell out of his pocket into the well,
which contained about four feet of water.
Brother Bullock emptied the well with effort
and then descended into it. After groping for
some time in the mud bottom he recovered
the ink bottle in good condition.
At 8 a.m. the pioneers continued the
journey again, taking a straight course. After
traveling about four and three-fourths miles
the company arrived at the meridian of Chim-
ney Rock, the road being about three miles
north of it. The Platte valley at this point was
about 3,790 feet above the level of the sea and
Chimney Rock was, as near as Professor Pratt
could determine, 260 feet high from its base
to its summit. The distance from the road at
its nearest point was about three miles.
Stephen Markham had traded a mule
(which had floundered and could not work)
for a Sioux Indian pony, which was hitched
to his wagon. While this pony, new in the
harness, was crossing a very soft place the
whippletree became unhitched and struck
against the animal’s heels. Wild with fright,
the pony ran full gallop toward the head
teams and through the line of wagons, causing
several teams, both horse teams and ox teams,
to spring from the road and run some dis-
tance before the men could stop them. After
running nearly a mile some of the brethren
caught the pony, brought him back and put
him to the wagon without any accident except
a little injury to the harness.
Great confusion reigned for a time and the
incident gave the pioneers some idea as to
what might happen if an Indian yell should
frighten the animals in such an encampment
with teams hitched to wagons. A person could
hardly conceive of the strength of animals
(oxen, mules, and horses) when wild with
fright. Elder Woodruff thought it was truly a
miracle that neither man nor beast was killed
on this occasion.
Two and a half miles farther the compa-
ny came to a halt, where Orson Pratt made
astronomical observations and found that the
noon encampment was at latitude 41 degrees
45 minutes 58 seconds, or 74¾ miles above
Ash Creek, or two and quarter miles west of
the meridian of Chimney Rock.
The pioneers, continuing the journey in a
northwesterly direction, traveled until noon,
when a halt was made to feed after travel-
ing seven and one-fourth miles during the
forenoon. The road had been very straight
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
and hard, except a few spots where
there was standing water owing to
the late heavy rain. The company
turned a short distance south be-
fore camping to get to the grass, as
the higher prairie was barren, there
being scarcely any grass on it at all.
Porter Rockwell killed two an-
telope and John Brown one. These
animals were brought into camp
and divided among the companies
as usual.
Near the noon encampment the
brethren noticed three abrupt cliffs;
one like an immense brick kiln
was nearest the river. The next one
was more like a pyramid, but much
smaller. All the bluffs on the south
side of the river rose abruptly from
the plains.
Elders Heber C. Kimball, Wilford
Woodruff, and Ezra T. Benson rode
ahead to point out the way. Erastus Snow
At 2:25 p.m. the pioneers
resumed their journey, making a Nov. 9, 1818, St. Johnsbury, Vermont
somewhat crooked road near the — May 27, 1888, Salt Lake City
river, but the traveling was good.
After journeying about five miles the company Carlos Murray was trying to rear the young
turned directly south to avoid a bad slough, eagle caught by the pioneers the previous
went a quarter of a mile farther and formed Saturday, but after making the encampment
their encampment for the night on the bank tonight he put it under a wagon and a while
of the river at 5 p.m. The day’s journey was afterward George Billings ran his wagon back
12¼ miles, the course traveled being north of when one of the wheels passed over the bird’s
northwest. head and killed it.
The feed at this place was good and there Apostle Erastus Snow, whose portrait
was sufficient of it to fill the teams well. The appears today, was with Orson Pratt on the
prairie was still wet. There was no timber on memorable July 21, 1947, when the two, one
the north side of the river, so the pioneers de- riding and the other walking, came down
pended upon driftwood, which was also very Emigration Canyon and injured the Valley,
scarce and even buffalo chips were diminish- being the first two men of the company to
ing in quantity as they journeyed westward. see and explore this tract, which appeared to
No buffalo had been seen for several days, but them as a beautiful scene. Mr. Snow described
antelope were still plentiful. it himself as follows:
The weather in the afternoon was warm “Orson Pratt and myself of the working
and part of the time the sky was overspread parties that were exploring first emerged from
and a few drops of rain descended about the canyon and bore off toward Red Butte. We
sundown. beheld in the distance the blue waters of the
Joseph Hancock killed an antelope, which Great Salt Lake. We simultaneously swung our
was brought into camp and the meat divided. hats and shouted, ‘Hosannah!’”
During the day the hunters killed four ante- Erastus Snow was born in St. Johnsbury,
lope and one wolf. Caledonia County, Vermont, November 9,
Soon after making the evening encamp- 1818. He joined the Church in 1833 and was
ment William Clayton walked out with Pres- the first to preach its doctrine in Denmark.
ident Yong and Heber C. Kimball. They were He also pioneered southern Utah and Mexico,
joined by Dr. Willard Richards and remained and served in the early territorial legislatures.
together until 7 p.m., at which time a heavy, He was idolized by the people of southern
black cloud was seen fast approaching from Utah. Mr. Snow died in Salt Lake City, May 27,
the west; it was soon followed by a brisk wind 1888.
and a little rain. The evening afterward was
warm and pleasant, though somewhat cloudy.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 53 • Thursday, May 27
The weather permitted the pioneers to
enjoy a delightful spring morning.
William Clayton remarked that the pio-
neers had seen a number pof romantic spots
on their journey, but he considered the view
this morning more sublime than any yet seen.
Chimney Rock lying southeast was in plain
view. Opposite the camp were seen detached
bluffs of various shapes and sizes. To the
southwest Scott’s Bluff looked majestic and
sublime. The prairie over which the pioneers
had made their road was very level and green
as far as the eye could see. The bluffs on the
north side of the river were low and about
three miles distant.
Orson Pratt measured the width of the river
at this place by the sextant and found it to be
exactly 792 yards.
At 7:50 a.m. the pioneers continued their
journey, taking nearly a straight course toward
Scott’s Bluff and traveling near the banks of
the river. The road was hard and good. There
was, however, but little grass on the route.
After traveling eight miles, a noon halt was
made at 11:45 a.m. opposite a steep bluff, re-
assembling a large fortress, having towers and
bastions in clear, distinct and bold appear-
ance. The small trees scattered about on this
rock formation were not bad representatives
of men in the fortress.
Before leaving the noon camp Brother Bull-
ock planted three seeds of white corn near Dr.
Richards’ wagon to show the next company of
saints that corn could grow on the prairie.
Porter Rockwell killed two antelope and
Amasa M. Lyman one, which were brought to
the wagons and distributed.
About 2 p.m. the camp was again on the
move by order of Dr. Willard Richards and the
traveling continued for about four miles over
a barren level prairie with nothing growing on
it except prickly pear.
The journey during the afternoon was not
far distant from the banks of the river and a
straight road was made.
Having traveled four and a half miles from
their noon halt, the pioneers passed the me-
ridian of Scott’s Bulff, being 19¾ miles from
the meridian of Chimney Rock.
William Clayton describes these bluffs as
being very high, steep and broken, and, like
many others, resembling ancient ruins.
The company traveled until 4:45 p.m.,
and then formed the night encampment in a
circle, near the banks of the river, which from
this point seemed to bend for some distance
to the north. They had traveled in the after-
noon five and three-fourths miles and during
the day thirteen and three-fourths miles,
mostly in a northwesterly direction. Elders
Kimball and Woodruff pointed out the road in
the forenoon.
53
The evening was very cold,
the wind blowing from the
northeast. There also was some
rain. Feed was good and all was
generally well in camp.
During the day four antelope
were killed and brought into
camp by the hunters.
Orson Pratt, in referring to
the thunder storm approach-
ing from the northwest in the
evening remarks:
“One characteristic of all
the showers by which we have
been visited in this country is
the high winds with which they
have been accompanied, they
being very violent, but of short
duration.”
The roads in the afternoon
were quite dusty, showing that
the late rains with which the pi-
oneers were visited some forty
miles below had not extended Norman Taylor
as far west as thor present Sept. 15, 1828, Grafton, Ohio — Nov. 23, 1899,
camping ground.
Moab, Utah
During the day saline
efflorescences were seen in
considerable abundance again. nia Forbush. He moved his family to Utah in
The bluffs on the opposite side of the river 1849, in the meanwhile having made another
exhibited themselves in a great variety of trip through Utah. In 1850 he moved to San
form, presenting scenes remarkably interest- Bernardino, California, where he remained
ing in their appearance. Heights resembling for 12 years, returning to Utah and settling in
castles and towers in varying forms and Santaquin. He moved to Moab, Grand County,
heights were seen, some of them with perpen- in 1881, where he died November 23, 1899,
dicular walls whose outlines were circular, while engaged in the mercantile business.
while others were rectilineal. Deep notches, The Tribune’s Moab correspondent in 1897
both semicircular and rectangular, seemed, further added that Mr. Taylor would drive
according to Orson Pratt, to be excavated Grand County’s float in the Jubilee parade,
in their summit. Many of these formations he being a very active man for his years. He
closely resembled the artificial works of man had recently driven his four-horse team from
thrown partially into disorder and confusion Thompson’s Springs to Moab with 5,000
by some great convulsion of nature. pounds for a load.
Heber C. Kimball picked the road in the It was impossible in 1897 to locate Eric
forenoon and it was left to Wilford Woodruff Glines. The last heard of him he was in St.
alone in the afternoon, when he pointed out a George, Utah.
road as straight as any that had been made on James Craigh, the bugler of the pioneer
the whole route. camp, lived in St. George, but died near there
Erastus Snow, in describing Scott’s Bluff, over 57 years old.
across the river, wrote that it presented a very Starling Graves Drigg left no relatives in
romantic appearance. Parowan. He died there December 3, 1860.
Norman Taylor, whose portrait appears “Fiddler” Hans Christian Hansen died in
herewith, was born at Grafton, Lorain County, Salina, Sevier County, Utah, October 10, 1890.
Ohio, September 15, 1828. He left with the He was born November 23, 1806, in Copenha-
pioneers when they first started west from gen, Denmark.
Nauvoo. He came through with the pioneer Alvarus Hanks, who was frozen to death
band, driving a team and outfit belonging in Parley’s Canyon in April, 1870, is another
jointly to himself and Nathan Chesley. Mr. of the pioneer band whose picture cannot be
Taylor drove the second team into the valley, obtained. He was born August 16, 1820, at
Gilbert Summe driving the first outfit. Mr. Madison, Lake County, Ohio.
Taylor started back four weeks later to Winter
Quarters. On his return he married Miss Lore-
54
Day 54 • Friday, May 28
The morning was cold, damp and cloudy in
the pioneer camp. A cold east wind, with an
unpleasant mingling of rain, began about 6
a.m., which caused Colonel Markahm to call
the brethren together around the “Revenue
Cutter.” After a few observations, it was voted
to remain in camp until the rain subsided.
Before the company started, Howard Egan
and Luke S. JOhnson went up river with the
“Revenue Cutter” in search of wood. They
came to a beautiful clear stream of water,
about eight feet wide, and saw a number of
fish in it. This stream was named Trout Creek
by Wilford Woodruff, but it is now (1934)
known as Spotted Tail Creek. It emptied into
the north form of the Platte a few miles west
of the meridian of Scott’s Bluff.
The rain shaving subsided, the horn was
blown to gather up the cattle; the teams were
hitched up and at 11 a.m. the journey was
resumed. During the first four miles the com-
pany traveled north of northwest in conse-
quence of a bend in the river.
For a mile they traveled beside a creek
of very clear water. This creek rose about
ten miles northwest of where the pioneers
had camped the previous night, and ran in
a crooked direction until it entered into a
river (North Fork) a mile west of the camp. It
had its source in springs, which were proven
by Horace K. Whitney, who traced it to its
source, where there was a spring rising out of
a circular kind of wet swamp about six feet in
diameter. The creek was about eight feet wide
at the crossing, but not deep, its bottom being
gravelly.
Near the place where the creek emptied
into the river the brethren discovered a num-
ber of large spotted trout, suckers and dace of
a good size. The water, which was cold, tasted
very good.
This creek was named Trout Creek because
of the trout found in it. Several of the brethren
declared that the trout in that creek were the
first speckled trout they had seen since they
left the eastern states.
The company continued the journey over
a barren level for four miles, traveling at the
foot of the bluffs over a sandy road, which was
heavy on the teams.
After traveling nine miles the train de-
scended a gentle slope onto a lower bench of
prairie, where the saline deposits made their
appearance again, and where the ground was
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
wet and soft, though not bad travel-
ing. On the islands in the river were
many trees, which was a pleasing
sight to the pioneers, but there were
none on the mainland. During the
day they saw many hillocks or and
hills, which consisted mostly of
small pebbles or gravel accumulat-
ed with great industry on the part of
the ant from the neighboring soil.
Mingled with these were found in
different places small Indian beads
which these insects had collected
and which served to beautify and
adorn their habitation.
The air in places was much
perfumed by a herb called by some
southern wood. This grew in large
quantities, generally preferring,
with the prickly pear, a dry, barren
soil. Dandelions, pigweed, pepper
grass, dock, and various other
plants common to the east, were
seen at intervals by the pioneers in Millen Atwood
this western country. The prickly May 24, 1817, Willington, Connecticut
pear had a very good flavor and
— Dec. 17, 1890, Salt Lake City
with sugar could be made a good
substitute for fruit.
Having traveled about 15 miles during the cil in President Young’s wagon, when the
day the company halted for the night at 4:50 president wrote some of the words of the Lord
p.m. about half a mile from the river. Here concerning the camp and then expressed
they found plenty of driftwood for fuel, in his views and feelings concerning the same.
addition to two large trees which had been He regretted that some of the brethren were
cut down by previous travelers. One large tree forgetting their missions and said he would
had been blown down. From these the pio- rather travel with two righteous men who
neers obtained plenty of fuel. The last seven would keep the commandments of God than
miles of the day’s journey had been a little with a whole camp who were careless in the
south of west. The feed near this encampment performance of their duties and forgetting
was not very good. God. These brethren remained together until
The evening was cloudy and dull, with a 10 o’clock p.m.
cold northeast wind blowing. Bishop Millen Atwood of the Thirteenth
While Thomas Brown and Porter Rockwell Ward, whose picture is given today, was up to
were out hunting about five miles north of the the time of his death, December 17, 1890, one
encampment, the former saw five or six Indi- of the most popular men of his years in Salt
ans about a quarter of a mile from him. The Lake City. He was born at Willington, Tolland
two brethren also saw many new footprints of County, Connecticut, May 24, 1817, and went
horses, which showed that there was a hunt- to Nauvoo in 1841. On his return from a trip
ing party of Indians near. to Pisgah in 1847, he was called to accompa-
During the evening Wilford Woodruff went ny the pioneers, and he left Winter Quarters
into Dr. Richards’ wagon, read a chapter in April 8 with Brigham Young’s followers, who
the Book of Mormon and prayed with the camped on the Elkhorn. In August, 1847, after
brethren there. After this, President Young, being in the Valley some weeks, he returned
Heber C. Kimball, Wilford Woodruff, Willard to Winter Quarters, and still later made other
Richards, and Ezra T. Benson met in coun- trips to Utah.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 55 • Saturday, May 29
The morning was cold, wet and cloudy in
the pioneer camp, with the wind blowing from
the northeast. There was also a drizzling rain.
The third and fourth tens, not having any
guard out, their cattle strayed away between
three and four miles.
About 10 a.m. the weather looked a little
better; the rain soon subsided and the bugle
was sounded as a signal for the teams to be
gathered together. After all the cattle were
hitched up about noon the brethren were all
called together to the boat (“Revenue Cutter”)
in a circle, and President Young, taking his sta-
tion in the boat, ordered each captain of 10 to
lead out his respective company and get all his
men together. He then called on Thomas Bull-
ock to call over the names of the camp to see if
all were present. Joseph Hancock and Andrew
Gibbons were reported to be absent hunting.
Elijah Newman and Nathaniel Fairbanks were
confined to their wagons, the remainder were
all present. President Young then addressed
the meeting in substance as follows:
“I remarked last Sunday that I had not felt
much like preaching to the brethren on this
mission. This morning I feel like preaching
a little, and shall take for my text, ‘That as to
pursuing our journey with this company with
the spirit they possess, I am about to revolt
against it.’ Nobody has told me what has been
going on in the camp, but I have known it all
the while. I have been watching its move-
ments, its influence, its effects, and I know the
result if it is not put a stop to. Unless there is
a change and a different course of conduct, a
different spirit to what is now in this camp, I
go no farther. I am in no hurry. I do not mean
to bow down to the spirit which causes the
brethren to quarrel.”
The speaker then came to the point by de-
scribing the tendency on the part of the camp
to quarrel, play cards, use profane language,
and all the time dancing and having a good
time, all for recreation. He said that if they
were not getting enough exercise by doing a
day’s work, they should walk with their guns
over their shoulders, and not lie back in the
wagons, making the load all the heavier for the
tired animals.
Continuing, the president said: “I under-
stand there are several in this camp who don’t
belong to the Church. I am the man who will
stand up for them and protect them in all their
rights, but they shall not trample on my rights.
nThey shall reverence God and the priesthood,
and not seek to introduce iniquity into this
camp. If they want to retreat now, they can
do so, and any man who chooses to go back
rather than abide by the law can now have the
privilege of doing so before we go any farther.
“I am one of the last to ask my brethren to
enter into solemn covenants, but if they will
not enter into a covenant to put away their
iniquity and turn to the Lord and serve Him,
acknowledge and honor His name, then they
shall take their wagons and retreat, for I will
go no farther under such conditions… I want
the brethren to be ready for meeting tomorrow
at the appointed time instead of rambling
off and hiding in their wagons to play cards.
I think it will be good for us to have a fast
meeting and a prayer-meeting also; humble
ourselves and turn to the Lord, and He will
forgive us.”
President Young then called upon all to
stand in front of him, according to ecclesias-
tical rank. There were in all eight apostles,
four bishops, 15 high priests, 78 seventies and
eight elders. They were all addressed separate-
ly and asked “If they were willing to covenant
to turn to the Lord with all their heart, to
repent of their follies, to cease from their evil
ways and serve God according to His laws.”
Every man covenanted with an uplifted
hand, without a dissenting vote. He then
addressed those who were not members of the
Church, again stating he would protect them
as long as they behaved themselves. He spoke
highly of Benjamin Rolf’s conduct (one of the
non-Mormon pioneers).
President Young was followed by Heber C.
Kimball, Orson Pratt, Wilford Woodruff, and
Stephen Markaham, who spoke in a similar
strain and hoped that the president’s admo-
nitions would be carefully considered, and
that his advice be strictly followed. Colonel
Markham, while speaking, was much affected
and wept like a child.
At 1:30 p.m. the pioneers resumed their
journey in peace, all reflecting on what had
taken place, and many of them expressed
their appreciation for what had been said by
President Young and the others. To many it
seemed that they were just commencing their
mission and all realized the responsibilities
resting upon them in conducting themselves
in such a manner that the journey might be an
everlasting blessing to them, instead of an ev-
erlasting disgrace. No loud laughter was heard
and there was no swearing, no quarreling, no
profane language and no harsh speaking to
man or beast, and, as William Clayton writes:
“It truly seemed as though the cloud had burst
and the brethren emerged into a new element,
a new atmosphere and a new society.”
After traveling six and three-fourths miles
in a northwesterly course the pioneers arrived
at the foot of the now bluffs, which extended
within ten rods of the river, the latter forming
a large bend northward at this point. At the
foot of the bluffs the road was sandy and heavy
on the teams. After passing over the sand, the
course was changed to a little north of west
and still not leaving the bluffs very far, as the
river again bent to the south. There they found
the ground hard and good to travel over, but
55
Benjamin F. Stewart
Oct. 22, 1817, Monroe County, Ohio
— June 22, 1885, Benjamin, Utah
perfectly bare of grass for upward of a mile.
At 5 p.m. it commenced to rain very hard,
accompanied by thunder and a strong north-
east wind. It also became considerably cooler
again.
At this place the pioneers saw some soft
garish sandstone, and many of the surround-
ing hills consisted of large quantities of
cobblestones. One of the sandstone rocks pro-
jected from the bluffs, very much resembling
the hull of a steamboat loaded with freight,
and from this circumstance the pioneers
called it “Steamboat Rock,” by which name it
is still known.
At 5:30 p.m., and encampment was formed
for the Sabbath on the edge of the higher
bench or prairie, a short distance from a
creek. The feed here was tolerably good on the
bottoms, but where the camp was made there
was none at all. Within 200 yards to the south
of the camp was a creek of clear water, from
which the brethren obtained what water they
needed.
The distance traveled during the day was
eight and one-half miles and during the week
74½ miles, making the distance from Winter
Quarters 514½ miles.
The portrait today is of Benjamin Franklin
Steward, one of the pioneers who was in the
seventh ten under James Case. He became a
settler of Utah County and was well known
and highly esteemed in the neighborhood of
Benjamin, his home. He was born October 22,
1817, on the banks of the Ohio River in Mon-
roe County, Ohio, and was killed by lightning
June 22, 1885, at Benjamin, Utah County,
Utah.
56
Day 56 • Sunday, May 30
The morning was cool and pleasant in the
pioneer camp, although there was some ap-
pearance of rain, The day had been set apart
by the pioneers as a day of fasting and prayer.
About 8:30 a.m. most of the brethren
retired to a green, dry spot a short distance
south of the camp, where they held a prayer
meeting. As many of the brethren as chose to
do so expressed their feelings in prayer, praise
and confession of sins. Bishop Tarlton Lewis
took the lead of the meeting, which continued
until 10:10 a.m., and then dismissed in order
to give the brethren time to gather up the
cattle preparatory for the sacrament meeting,
which had been appointed.
When the cattle had been attended to,
the brethren assembled again at 11 a.m. for
prayer and sacrament.
At 12:30 p.m. the Twelve and some others
went onto the bluffs and, selecting a small,
circular, level spot, surrounded by bluffs and
out of sight, they formed a circle and offered
up prayers to God for themselves, the pioneer
camp and all pertaining to it, the brethren in
the Mormon Battalion, their own families and
all the saints. The members of the Council
of the Twelve present on this occasion were
Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball, Willard
Richards, Orson Pratt, George A. Smith,
Wilford Woodruff, Amasa M. Lyman, and
Ezra T. Benson. The other brethren present
were Phineas H. Young, John Pack, Charles
Shumway, Shadrach Roundy, Albert P. Rock-
wood, Erastus Snow, William Clayton, Albert
Carrington, and Porter Rockwell.
When the brethren started for the bluffs
there was a heavy cloud in the south west and
rain might come at any minute. But the breth-
ren believed it would not rain until they had
finished their prayers: Yet, if it should, they
chose rather to get a wetting than be denied
the privilege of meeting together. The rain
kept off remarkably well until the brethren got
through and changed their clothing, but soon
after that it began to rain, and after they had
returned to camp considerable rain descend-
ed, accompanied by strong wind.
Elder Clayton remarked that he had never
noticed the brethren so still and sober on
a Sunday before since they started on their
westward journey. There was no jesting, or
laughing, or nonsense; all appeared to be sol-
emn and to remember the covenants made by
them the day before, which made things look
far more pleasant than previously had been
the case. The brethren then returned to their
wagons and partook of some refreshments,
having eaten nothing that day up to that time.
President Young, Heber C. Kimball, Lorenzo
D. Young, and Phineas H. Young spent most
of the afternoon in Elder Kimball’s wagon,
on which occasion the minutes of President
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Young’s discourse of the day
before were read.
The weather was more pleasant
toward evening, but still slight
showers fell occasionally.
About 5 p.m. Presiden Young,
Heber C. Kimball, Ezra T. Benson,
Wilford Woodruff, and others
walked out together to the bluffs,
taking their field glasses with
them, and ascended the highest
point within their reach, which
was about three miles northwest
of the camp, where, near the time
of the setting of the sun, they
viewed the surrounding country.
Chimney Rock, though nearly
40 miles distant, was still visible
down the river, and the towering
heights of the long range of the
Black Hills west of Laramie were
also plainly seen. To the north and
northwest, the country appeared
little else than sandhills as far as
the eye could reach.
After gratifying their eyes,
Presiden Young proposed prayers
upon this, the highest ground they Charles A. Harper
had stood upon. After bowing
before the Lord, the brethren de- Jan. 27, 1817, Upper Providence, Pennsylvania
scended and returned to camp at — April 24, 1900, Cottonwood, Utah
dark, weary in body, and retired to
rest satisfied with the proceedings of the day. Holladay, Big Cottonwood, where he had lived
Elder Clayton remarks that he was invited for many years. Mr. Harper made a pleasant
to accompany the brethren in the evening to call at The Tribune office, and, though in his
the bluffs, but could not accept the invitation, eightieth year, was hale and hearty. Mr. Harp-
being so seriously afflicted with cramps that er remembered many details of the great trip
he could scarcely walk. Ellen Sanders, wife of perfectly, and is an entertaining man in his
Heber C. Kimball, prepared a warm drink for recitals of the incidents of the journey.
him, after which he retired to his wagon early, He was born in Upper Providence, Mont-
feeling better. gomery County, Pennsylvania, January 27,
It may here be stated that while the three 1817. By trade he was a carriage maker, and
pioneer women in the camp were not required in this work he was a handy member of the
to stand guard, herd cattle or fight Indians, band. From the Platte crossing he drove
they were, nevertheless, very useful around the cannon wagon westward. He said there
camp; they not only waited upon their re- seemed to be some difference of opinion as
spective husbands and families, but at times, to where the pioneers camped in the valley.
when necessity required, they also waited According to his statement, the company
upon the other brethren who happened to he was in arrived on July 22, and camp was
be sick, and otherwise contributed their part made on the bank of Mill Creek. On the 23rd,
toward making the journey pleasant for all. they moved northeast to the block afterward
Orson Pratt writes that as he was retiring known as Emigrant Square, in the Eighth
to rest at night a small shower of rain came Ward, and camped there until August 2nd. Mr.
up from the west while the moon beamed in Harper said that Salt Lake Valley at that time
brightness in the east, being about half an was a most desolate country, with only a patch
hour above the horizon, and by the refraction of green here and there along the banks of the
of its mild rays through the falling drops it creeks, and the prospect was not inviting.
produced a beautiful lunar rainbow in the In August, Mr. Harper turned to Winter
west which was only a little inferior in bright- Quarters, but came back the next year (1848)
ness to a solar rainbow. with his family. He died at his Cottonwood
Charles A. Harper, one of the pioneers, home, April 24, 1900.
was still alive in 1897. His home was near
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 57 • Monday, May 31
The morning was very fine in the pioneer
camp, with a clear blue sky. The weather was
cool, but pleasant. There was a very gentle
breeze from the northwest and a carpet of
frost on the ground in the early morning.
Some Of the cattle had strayed away so far
that it took two hours to gather them up.
After the cattle were gathered, the pioneers
resumed the journey at 8:15 a.m. traveling
over a barren country abounding with prickly
pears, which Elder Woodruff said were an
excellent plant to eat, though covered with
thorns like needles; after these had been care-
fully pared off with a knife and fork, they were
very delicious and pleasant to eat, though a
little tart to the taste.
The pioneers found good traveling on the
level and soon struck a wagon trail which
evidently led directly to Fort Laramie.
Wilford Woodruff went ahead to pick out
the road for the company, although he was
suffering from a toothache and canker in his
mouth.
After traveling four miles (going into what
is now the state of Wyoming), the pioneers
passed some high, sandy bluffs. Some of the
brethren killed a rattlesnake. The journey
was continued until noon, when the compa-
ny turned off a little to the southwest, and at
12:20 p.m. a noon halt was made on the top
of a sandhill, one and a half miles north of
the river, or near the edge of the lower land,
where there was a little green grass for the
teams.
The country over which the pioneers had
traveled that forenoon, in a west-northwest-
erly direction, for a distance of nine and one-
half miles, was naked and barren. A high wind
was blowing from the northwest. The latitude
of the noon encampment was 42 degrees 4
minutes 30 seconds and 122½ miles from the
mouth of Ash Creek.
Being so far from the river, the brethren
dug a well four or five feet deep and got excel-
lent water.
The monotony of the landscape at this
point was somewhat relieved by a few strag-
gling cottonwood trees and larger quantities
of willows than usual, but Sioux Indians had
wintered in it and cut down most of the trees
for browse and wood.
About 3 p.m. the journey resumed, travel-
ing over a very heavy sandy road in a direc-
57
tion a little north of west. On the
journey they passed some timber
on the north side of the river, which
was the first timber the pioneers
had seen since the 10th of May, they
having traveled a distance of 215
miles without wood for fuel, except
driftwood, and much of the time
with nothing but buffalo chips. The
men had been accustomed to follow
the river bank and islands all day
to pick up any wood, sticks, bark or
chips which they found lodged on
the banks by the flood, or that the
Indians had left.
The weather was no warmer and
the wind had temporarily ceased.
At 6:45 p.m. an encampment was
formed on the east bank of a shal-
low stream (now Rawhide Creek),
about 10 feet wide, having a swift
current. The bottom of the creek
was a mixture of gravel and sand,
the water having the same muddy, Greene Flake
yellow color as that in the Platte. Born in Mississippi — Died Oct. 20, 1903,
The pioneers traveled in the after-
Idaho Falls, Idaho
noon seven and one-fourth miles
and during the day, 16¾ miles.
John S. Higbee killed a dear and some of the our hearts and may His angels administer
brethren wounded two others. The deer killed comfort, health, peace and prosperity to all
by Brother Higbee was of the long tail species, our families and all the saints henceforth and
having a tail more than half a yard long, and forever.”
was the first animal of that kind that some of Green Flake was one of the original
the brethren had seen. pioneers of Utah. He was a negro, born in
Some time after the camp had been formed the state of Mississippi, and was still alive in
President Young and Heber C. Kimball went 1897, being a respected citizen of John Gray’s
to the bluffs and again saw the Black Hills in Lake, Bingham County, Idaho. The date of his
the distance. They bowed before the Lord and birth is not recorded, but he was said in 1897
offered their prayers together. to be over 75 years of age. He had been a slave
William Clayton, in summarizing, writes: all his life, but joining the Mormon churchs,
“The month of May has passed, and we have he became a valued man in the pioneer com-
been permitted to proceed in our journey, pany, traveling in the fourteenth 10, of which
being 531¼ miles away from our families in Joseph Matthews was captain. Mr. Flake was
Winter Quarters, with the camp generally very well known in Salt Lake City, having been
enjoying good health and good spirits, and, a resident of the Union Ward for years prior
although some things have passed which have to his moving to Idaho. He died at Idaho Falls,
merited chastisement, we have the privi- Idaho, October 20, 1903.
lege, at the closing of the month, of seeing There were two other negroes in the pio-
a better feeling, a more noble spirit, and a neer company, but all efforts to secure their
more general desire to do right than we have photographs have been fruitless. One is Oscar
before witnessed. I feel to humble myself and Crosby, who died in Los Angeles in 1870. The
give God thanks for His continued mercies other is Hark Lay, who formerly lived in Salt
to me and my brethren, and my His spirit fill Lake County.
58
Day 58 • Tuesday, June 1
The morning nand pleasant in the pioneer
camp, an, in the language of Elder Clayton:
“All was still and quiet as a summer morning;
the brethren being well and in good spirits,
and a feeling of peace, union and brotherly
love dwelling in every breast.”
The pioneers started on their journey at 9
a.m., crossing Rawhide Creek (thus named by
Grosclaude), and then continued their trek
westward.
As the company traveled along, the breth-
ren saw many trees on the banks of the river
on their left, while on their right were sandy
bluffs and rocks. They passed the dead bodies
of four Indians tied up in skins and fastened
to trees, this manner disposing of the dead
being preferred by the Indians to burying
them in the ground, where the wolves and
other wild animals might easily dig them up
and devour them.
After traveling four and one-half miles, the
company halted for noon opposite the ruins of
an old trading post situated on the right bank
of the north fork of the Platte.
At 1:30 p.m. the journey resumed and
soon after starting the cry was raised by one
of the brethren: “I see Fort Laramie.” This
created great interest among the brethren, all
being very anxious to see signs of civilized
habitation once more. The fort was seen
plainly about 3 p.m., some four miles to the
southwest.
About this time President Young and Heber
C. Kimball came up to the point where Wilfrod
Woodruff and William Clayton were looking
out for feed, and the four men then continued
the journey westward, after President Young
had stopped the wagons temporarily. Reach-
ing the river ford, nearly opposite Fort Platte,
it was concluded to form the encampment for
the night at this point, where the river was
about one-fourth of a mile wide.
When President Young, Mr. Kimball, Mr.
Woodruff, and Mr. Clayton arrived on the east
bank of the river (North Platte), they saw some
men approaching from the west, until they
came up and stood upon the opposite bank of
the stream.
In the meantime, Luke S. Johnson arrived
at the proposed camping place with his
boat-wagon, accompanied by others who
traveled ahead of the main company. The boat
(the “Revenue Cutter”) was launched at once
and Luke S. Johnson, John Brown, Joseph
Matthews, and Porter Rockwell crossed the
river in the boat to greet the men waiting form
them on the opposite bank of the stream.
With joy the four pioneers learned that the
men waiting were a part of the so-called
Mississippi company of the saints who had
wintered at Pueblo, but had traveled from that
place to Fort Laramie, whence they had now
come to the river to meet the pioneers, who
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Fort Laramie
(After an engraving by Fred Piercy, 1853)
were arriving from the east. John Brown, who
had led the same company to Fort Laramie the
previous year, was especially glad to meet his
old friends from the south.
The four pioneers soon recrossed the river,
bringing Brother Robert Crow and his son-in-
law, George W. Thirlkill, over to the east side.
These two brethren, after being introduced to
some of the pioneers, reported that they were
part of the Mississippi company of saints who
had wintered at Pueblo, and had waited for
the pioneers at Fort Laramie two weeks.
To meet with these brethren in this wild
region of country caused great joy in the pio-
neer camp, and this joy became greater still
when Brothers Crow and Thirlkill could give
the pioneers definite news from the brethren
who had enlisted in the Mormon Battalion.
Brother Crow reported the deaths of Melcher
Oyler and Arnold Stevens, and others of the
sick detachment of the Mormon Battalion
since Brothers John H. Tippitts and Thomas
Woolsey had left Pueblo for Winter Quarters
the previous December.
In the meantime the main company of the
pioneers approached the river, and after turn-
ing around a point of timber they drove into a
very pretty vale; after traveling seven and one-
half miles in the afternoon, or 12 miles during
the day, an encampment was made at 5:40
p.m. on the spot chosen by President Young
on the bank of the North Platte, about 40 rods
below Fort Platte, which was situated on the
opposite bank of the river, about two miles
east of Fort Laramie.
The pioneers formed an encampment in
the form of a V. This camp was 543¼ miles
from Winter Quarters, the way the pioneers
had traveled, which distance had been made
in seven weeks, lacking half a day. They ar-
rived so far on their journey without accident
or harm, except the loss of two horses stolen
by Indians and two others killed.
Fort Platte was situated on the right bank of
the north fork and about half a mile above the
junction of the river with the Laramie Fork.
This fort had been vacated for some time and
was, when the pioneers visited it, crumbling
to ruins.
Aout 9 p.m. some time after the evening
encampment had been made on the east bank
of the river, President Young called the breth-
ren together and suggested that the pioneers
should do their blacksmithing, coal burning,
wagon mending, etc., as quickly as possible,
so they might continue toward the mountains
with as little delay as possible.
A number of men were appointed to do
herding and to attend to camp duties, transact
business, etc., while encamped at this point.
The council and campaigns met at Pres-
ident Yount’s wagon in the pioneer circle,
when it was decided that two men out of each
ten should watch the cattle, the blacksmiths
should burn coal to be used in repairing
wagons, Colonel Albert P. Rockwood should
charter the ferryboat owned by the fort peo-
ple, in order to ferry over all the wagons, the
water being too high to ford, and that all wag-
ons should be overhauled before continuing
the journey from Fort Laramie. James Case,
Shadrach Roundy, and Seth Taft were appoint-
ed a committee to overhaul and select plows
to be taken to the mountains. This council
meeting closed about 10 p.m.
Fort Laramie was formerly called Fort
William, and later Fort John, but was named
Laramie after the river, which took its name
from a French trapper of the earliest fur hunt-
ing period.
From a small party of traders that had just
come from Fort Bridger, the pioneers also
learned more of the road to the west. The
traders stated that the snow was several feed
deep on the Sweetwater two weeks before,
and they had to leave their wagons and travel
to Laramie on horses.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 59 • Wednesday, June 2
The day opened with a very pleasant morn-
ing and a clear sky in the pioneer camp.
At 9:15 a.m. Presiden Young, Heber C. Kim-
bal, Willard Richards, William Clayton, Thom-
as Bullock, Albert P. Rockwood, and several
others left the pioneer camp, on the east bank
of the North Fork of the Platte, crossing the
river in their siff of sole leather (the Revenue
Cutter), the river here being 108 yards wide.
The water was deep in the channel.
The first visited Fort Platte, which was in
ruins. Thomas Bullock and William Clay-
ton measured the walls of this fort (built of
unburned brick), and found them to be 144 by
103 feet on the outside. The door on the east
side was 9 feet 9 inches, the height of the wall
11 feet, the doorway on the south 10½ feet
and all the walls were about 30 inches thick.
Around the inside of the walls there were
15 rooms, the one on the southwest corner
appeared to have been a store. These small
rooms were 16 by 15 feet and surrounded a
yard 61 feet 9 inches square. On the chimney
piece of the west room were paintings of a
horse and a buffalo, only a little defaced. On
the north side was the yard for horses, 98¾ by
47 feet inside, having on the northwest corner
a square tower with holes to shoot through on
the side; this tower was 9¾ feet square. The
Oregon Trail ran one rod from the southwest
angle of the ford and followed the river under
the bluffs. The building was made of un-
burned bricks and had been whitewashed.
President Young and the brethren with
him then proceeded to Fort Laramie, where
they arrived at 10:15 a.m. After visiting a little
while with the Mississippi saints, who were
encamped close to the fort, they went inside
Fort Laramie, where they were shown up a
flight of stairs to a large room, where they
found seats, a bedstead, desk, fiddle and some
pictures.
Mr. James Bordeaux, the principal man in
the fort, received them kindly and introduced
them to the others. He was a Frenchman and
a gentleman, and he willingly answered all
questions that were put to him by President
Young and the other pioneers who entered
into conversation with him. Mr. Bordeaux was
the superintendent of the fort.
The people at the fort shipped their furs to
Fort Pierre, on the Missouri River, a distance
of 400 miles by land, and received all their
stores and provisions back by the same teams,
except their meat, which they killed, there
being buffalo within two days’ ride.
The occupants had tried to make a garden
at the for and to plant corn, which generally
did well enough the first year, but afterwards
they could not raise anything for want of rain.
There had been no rain at Fort Laramie for
two years, until a few days before the arrival
of the pioneers.
59
Mr. Bordeaux
and his associates
owned a flat boat,
big enough to
carry two wagons
easily, and he
offered to rent
the same to the
pioneers for $15,
to carry their com-
pany across the
river, or he would Laramie’s Peak
ferry them across
for $18, or for 25 (From a sketch made in 1853 by Fred Piercy, viewed
cents per wagon. from a bluff six miles west of Fort Laramie)
Mr. Bordeaux
told the pioneers
that Ex-Governor Boggs of Missouri had $1.50, and a gallon of whisky $32. Shirting,
recently passed with his company; he had calico and cotton sold for $1 per yard, a buck-
said much against the “Mormons,” and cau- skin knife $1, buffalo robes from $3 to $5, and
tioned Mr. Bordeaux to take care of his horses buckskins from $2 to $3 apiece. Cows cost
and cattle. As Boggs and his company were $15 to $20, horses and ponies $40 each on
quarreling continually and many had deserted average, flour 25 cents per pound, etc.
him, Mr. Bordeaux remarked to the ex-gov- Altogether, provisions of all kinds were very
ernor that let the “Mormons” be what they high at this fort. There was no sugar, coffee,
might, they could not be worse than himself or spices in the store, as the spring supplies
and his men. “Is it not a little singular,” asks had not yet arrived at the fort. The traders had
Edward W. Tullidge, “that this exterminat- lately sent to Fort Pierre 600 bales of robes,
ing governor of Missouri should have been with ten robes in each bale. Their wagons had
crossing the plains at the same time as the been goe 45 days.
pioneers? They were going to carve out for The fort blacksmith shop was on the
their people a greater destiny than they could southside of the west entrance. There were
have reached either in Missouri or Illinois—he several dwellings inside the fort besides that
to pass away, leaving nothing but a transitory of Mr. Bordeaux. The south end was divided
name.” off and occupied by stables, etc. There were
Mr. Bordeaux had a number of Sioux quite a number of people at the fort, mostly
women and children around him, while the French, halfbreeds and a few Sioux Indians.
pioneers were visiting. There were 32 people The brethren were informed that the distance
altogether in the fort at that time. About twen- from Fort Laramie to Fort Bridger was 350
ty Sioux, men, women, and children, came miles.
with peltries in the trading house. At 1:30 p.m. the brethren got into Mr.
Fort Laramie, as the pioneers saw it, was Bordeaux’s flat boat on their return trip to
168 by 116 feet outside measurement. There the pioneer camp and had a pleasant ride,
were 18 rooms, namely, six on the east, six on about three miles down the Laramie Fork
the west, three on the north, and three on the to its mouth, the current being very swift.
south. These rooms were occupied as stores, They arrived at the junction of the Platte and
blacksmith shops and dwellings. Laramie Fork about 2 p.m. At this point most
After an animated social and cheerful of the brethren got on shore and towed the
conversation with Mr. Bordeaux and others, boat up to the pioneer camp, arriving there at
the pioneer brethren visited the trading house 2:15 p.m.
on the north side of the square. The brethren During the day a coal pit was fired within
were informed that the owners of the ford the pioneer camp circle and three portable
traded only with the Sioux Indians, for the blacksmith shops were operating and smiths
Crows came there for no other purpose than were busy shoeing horses, repairing wagons,
to steal. Thus a week before the arrival of the etc.
pioneers the Crows had succeeded in stealing The Twelve, in council, decided that Amasa
all the horses and mules belonging to the fort, M. Lyman should accompany Brothers Thom-
and in the course of a few years this same as Woolsey, John H. Tippets, and Roswell
tribe of Indians had stolen upwards of 200 Stevens to meet the detachment of the Mor-
horses from the owners. mon Battalion, which had spent the winter
Inquiring about prices of goods at the fort, at Pueblo, and hurry them on to Laramie to
the brethren learned that a pair of moccasins follow the tracks of the pioneers.
sold for $1, a lariat $1, a pound of tobacco
60 Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847

Day 60 • Thursday, June 3

The morning was cold in the pioneer camp
and a strong southeast wind was blowing.
In the morning three men who had arrived
the evening before on pack horses from the
Oregon road reported that they were from St.
Joseph, Missouri, and that there were 2,000
wagons on the road to Oregon from St. Joseph,
divided into companies of 20 to 50 wagons
each. These men thought that one small
company would arrive at Fort Laramie on the
morrow, one still larger the next day, and a
very large company the day following. The
brethren, however, thought the estimate of the
number was exaggerated. It was understood
that these emigrants were principally from
Missouri, Illinois, and Iowa.
The tide of emigration westward seemed to
be on the increase. Eighteen wagons bound
for Oregon were at that time camped about
three miles below the pioneer camp and one
of the men who had come to the fort reported
that he and his fellow-travelers had counted
over 500 wagons on the road. His company
had lost four horses to the Indians.
The first division of the pioneer company
Norton Jacob Simeon Fuller Howd
commenced ferrying over the north fork at 5 Aug. 12, 1805, Sheffield, May 13, 1813, Camden County,
a.m. or before sunrise, Wilford Woodruff’s ten Massachusetts — Jan. 30, 1879, New York — May 20, 1878,
being the first to cross over, and after that a Glenwood, Sevier County, Utah Beaver, Utah
wagon was taken over every 15 minutes.
Mr. Bordeaux called at the pioneer camp to
see the brethren cross the river in his boat. on the bank of the river, after which they strong pickets around and a cross at the head,
In the afternoon Thomas Bullock made knelt down and President Young blessed the they being Catholics.
a duplicate of a letter addressed to Captain brethren who were going on the journey and About 7 p.m. it began raining again, the
James Brown to be sent by Elder Amasa M. Ly- dedicated them to the Lord. storm approaching from the southeast, and
man. President Young wrote a note in pencil The four brethren then forded Laramie Fork as the rain fell heavily the brethren stopped
to be sent at the same time. He and Willard and continued their journey, the others re- ferrying, leaving three companies, or about
Richards also signed Elder Lyman’s letter of turning to camp. Phineas H. Young and Tunis 15 wagons on the east side of the river. All the
authority and a duplicate to Captain James Rappleye were also with these brethren. wagons would have been taken across during
Brown, also a letter to Elder Thomas Dowdle, At 1:30 p.m. it commenced to rain heavily the day if the weather had not been stormy.
the presiding elder at Pueblo. The brethren in the pioneer camp, accompanied by hail, Norton Jacob was a member of the first
made up a mail of 349 letters to the battalion lightning and very loud thunder, which lasted pioneer band. He was born in Sheffield, Berk-
and gave it to Thomas Woolsey, appointing until 3:30 p.m. During the storm the horses shire County, Massachusetts, August 12, 1805,
him deputy postmaster. Dr. Richards instruct- were mostly secured in the old fort (Fort and died in Glenwood, Sevier County, Utah,
ed Brother Woolsey to bring back all the Platte) and the ferrying ceased until it was January 30, 1879. Mr. Jacob was a carpenter
letters that he did not deliver to the brethren. fair again; about 5 p.m. the first division was and millwright by trade and in later years
Soon after the first wagons had crossed all over. The moat was then manned by the became one of the most sought-after artisans
the river the pioneer blacksmiths set up second division, John S. Higbee, captain. By in the Valley.
their forges in the ruins of the old Fort Platte working hard they averaged a wagon across Simeon Fuller Howd, one of the original
and continued their work of shoeing horses, in 11 minutes; one was taken across in 10 pioneers of Utah who crossed the plains in
repairing wagons, etc. minutes and another in 10 minutes and 20 President Brigham Young’s company (be-
At 11 a.m. Elders Amasa M. Lyman, Thomas seconds. The quickest trip made by the first longing to the sixth ten), was born in Camden
Woolsey, John H. Tippetts, and Rosewell Ste- division was 13 minutes. County, New York, May 13, 1813, and died in
vens started on horses and mules for Pueblo. In the afternoon, Wilford Woodruff and the Beaver, Beaver County, Utah, on May 20, 1876.
President Young, Heber C. Kimball, Willard other brethren visited the Indian and French He was a pioneer settler in Salt Lake City, Iron
Richards, and Orson Pratt accompanied them burying ground. The dead Indians were laid and Beaver Counties, and served in a military
to Laramie Fork, where they held a council upon a staging about 10 feet from the ground, capacity in the Black Hawk War.
meeting seated on large tree which had fallen the French were buried in the ground with
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 61 • Friday, June 4
The weather was fine in the morning in the
pioneer camp; a gentle breeze was blowing
from the northwest and, the sky being clear,
Laramie Peak was seen very plainly.
The brethren in the camp resumed their
task of ferrying at 4:40 a.m. and by 8 a.m. the
last pioneer wagon had safely crossed over the
North Fork from the east to the west side.
Early in the morning Orson Pratt again
visited Fort Laramie, where he ascended the
tower which was built over the entrance of
the fort, from which he, with his instruments,
determined the longitude of the fort to be 104
degrees 11 minutes 53 seconds and the lati-
tude to be 42 degrees 12 minutes 13 seconds,
differing from Captain John C. Fremont only
three seconds, or 18 rods. By means of several
barometrical observations, Professor Pratt
also calculated the altitude of the fort to be
4,090 feet above the level of the sea.
In the morning William Clayton put up a
signboard at the ferry on the northeast side of
the North Platte with the following inscrip-
tions on it: “Winter Quarters, 543½ miles;
Junction of the Forks, 227¼ miles; Ash Hol-
low, 142½ miles; Chimney Rock, 70¼ miles;
Scott’s Bluffs, 50½ miles. William Clayton,
June 4, 1847.”
At 9 a.m., President Young, Heber C. Kim-
ball, Willard Richards, Albert P. Rockwood,
and Thomas Bullock walked to Fort Laramie;
they returned soon after 11 o’clock and report-
ed that they had heard from a trader a very
favorable report of the Bear River Valley (now
in Idaho); that it was well timbered and had
plenty of good grass; the winters were light
and the snowfall not very heavy; there was
also an abundance of fish, especially spotted
trout in the streams.
Before leaving Fort Laramie a number of
brethren wrote letters to their families and
friends at Winter Quarters and left them in
the hands of the trader, who kept the store at
the fort and acted as postmaster. He appeared
very friendly toward the pioneers and prom-
ised to forward the the letters destined or
Winter Quarters to the care of Mr. Sarpy, and
those which were to be delivered to the “Mor-
mon” camps, who should follow the pioneers,
would be delivered to the leaders of these
camps on their arrival at Fort Laramie.
Dr. Richards wrote a letter to Winter Quar-
ters and left the same with Mr. Bordeaux, who
remarked to Brother Rockwood that never
before had such a company passed Ford Lara-
mie as the pioneer company, for the pioneers
would not go anywhere without first asking
liberty to go. Mr. Bordeaux had taken great
pleasure in showing the pioneers through the
fort.
Dr. Luke S. Johnson attended some of the
inhabitants of the fort in his medical capacity,
and they paid him in moccasins, skins, etc.
61
After visiting the corral, the store, etc.,
at Fort Laramie, President Young and
his party returned to the pioneer camp.
About 11:30 a.m. Robert Crow’s
company of Mississippi and Illinois
saints, who had wintered at Pueblo,
joined the second division of the
pioneer company. The Crow company
consisted of 17 persons, whose names
are as follows: Robert Crow, Elizabeth
Crow, Benjamin B. Crow, Harriet Crow,
Elizabeth Jane Crow, John McHenry
Crow, Walter H. Crow, William Parker
Crow, Isa Vinda Exene Crow, Ira Minda
Almarene Crow, George W. Therlkill,
Matilda Jane Therlkill, Milton Howard
Therkill, James William Therlkill,
Archibald Little, Jame Chesney, and
Lewis B. Myers.
This little company had five wagons,
one cart, 11 horses, 24 oxen, 22 cows,
three bulls and seven calves. With the
addition of these 17 persons, and the Joseph Rooker
deduction of the four pioneers who (Member of John Higbee’s company
had started for Pueblo, the pioneer — left Utah in 1857 for California)
company, when leaving Fort Laramie,
consisted of 161 souls.
As there had been some changes in horses At 2:30 p.m. the journey continued over an
and mules in the pioneer camp, William Clay- uneven, sandy road. At a distance of 7¾ miles
ton explained what they were and gave the from Fort Laramie the pioneers descended
number of people and animals with which the a steep hill or pitch to the river bottom. In
start was made from Laramie as follows: Two descending, the brethren not only had to lock
horses had been killed by accident; two horses wheels, but they found it necessary to attach
had been stolen by Pawnee Indians at Gravel ropes to the hind end of the wagons, and, by
Creek; one mule had been traded for a pony a number of men holding back with all their
by Brother Markham; three horses and one strength, accidents were prevented. It was the
mule had been sent with the brethren toward first time for six weeks that this precaution
Pueblo; one horse had been traded by Porter had been found necessary in descending a
Rockwell for three cows and two calves; one hill. It took the brethren about two hours to
horse had been traded by John Pack for three get all the wagons down to the river bottom.
buffalo robes; one horse had been traded by After descending this hill, which later became
Nathanial Brown for a pony at Laramie, and known to travelers as “Mexican Hill,’ the
one pony had been traded by John S. Higbee pioneers went half a mile farther and then
for another pony. These changes, with the formed their encampment for the night in a
addition made by Brother Crow’s company, circle at 5:30 p.m., having traveled 8¼ miles
made the number of animals and vehicles during the day.
as follows: 95 horses, 51 mules, 100 head of During the afternoon, the pioneers passed
oxen, 41 cows, 3 bulls, 7 calves, some dogs immense swarms of grasshoppers. The
and chickens, 77 wagons and one cart. scenery was now altogether different from
At noon the united company of pioneers what it had been farther east. There were
and the saints from the southern states (Mis- bold, rugged bluffs speckled with cedar and
sissippi company) left the campground near pine trees. The river bottom was interspersed
Fort Laramie and resumed their journey fol- with cottonwood trees and wild choke-cherry
lowing the Oregon Road on the south side of bushes. Conical-shaped hills were seen on
the river (the North Fork). After traveling three the north side of the river covered with cedar
miles, a halt was made at 1 p.m. near some trees. The road over which the pioneers trav-
good grass in order to let the teams feed. eled was very irregular and uneven.
During the noon halt William Clayton went The portrait today is of Joseph Rooker, who
up a steep bluff near the camp with his glass. was a member of the 11th ten, John Higbee’s
He found it very difficult to ascend. From the company. Mr. Rooker only stayed in Utah 10
top of the bluff he could see Laramie Peak and years, leaving for California in 1857.
also some hills a long way off to the north-
west.
62
Day 62 • Saturday, June 5
The morning was pleasant in the pioneer
camp, though somewhat cloudy. The horn
sounded early to start, but the pioneers were
detained until 8:30 a.m. because several oxen
were missing. About that time they were
found and the pioneers pursued their journey.
After traveling a little over four miles up
the river they ascended a steep hill, where
the road ran very corked. The surface of the
country in some places consisted of very hard,
uneven rock, and the wagons in passing over
it were jarred very much.
At the west foot of the bluff there was a
steep, sandy descent. About a mile from the
seat foot of the bluff the pioneers turned from
the river, taking a course nearly west, and
crossed the dry bed of a stream or low gravelly
channel which appeared to have been a part
of this river some time ago. This place was 15
miles in a straight line from the junction of
the Laramie River with the North Fork. The
road, after crossing this dry channel, was
considerably crooked and uneven.
About a mile and a quarter farther the pio-
neers descended again into the same gravelly
channel and traveled up it a short distance,
and at 11:45 a.m. halted for noon opposite
a very large spring noted by Fremont as the
“warm spring.” The water in this spring was
very clear and soft, but considerably warmer
than the river water.
The pioneers traveled this morning six and
one-half miles. Just as they halted, two men
on mules came down from the south or other
road to water. They belonged to a company of
11 wagons from Missouri and were bound for
Oregon. This company had traveled from Fort
Laramie on another road which interested the
one which the pioneers had traveled a little
above the spring. They said that the distance
on that other road from Fort Laramie to the
spring was only ten miles, while the road the
pioneers had followed was 14¾ miles long
between the same points.
While nooning, some of the brethren visit-
ed the head of the spring, which bubbled out
of the bluff and made a rivulet about four feet
wide and three inches deep — enough water to
run a common flour mill.
At 1:40 p.m. the pioneers resumed their
journey. After traveling a mile, they turned
into a narrow pass to the northeast between
two high bluffs and a quarter of a mile farther
they came to where the road rose in a very
high, steep bluff, at the foot of which was a
sudden pitch. The road thence went over a
rugged ascent for a quarter of a mile. The
bluff at this point was rocky and many large
cobblestones lying in the road made it hard on
the teams.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
The pioneers, after traveling
on this high, rolling land five and
a quarter miles over a good road,
descended again from the bluff, the
descent being steep and lengthy,
but sandy and good to travel. At the
foot of the bluff they again crossed
the gravelly channel previously
mentioned and traveled alongside
the same about a mile, and then
descended a little to the bottom
prairie again.
At 6:30 p.m. they formed their
encampment for the night on the
west bank of the small stream of
pure water (Cottonwood Creek)
and near a very good spring of
cold water, having traveled in the
afternoon 10½ miles and during the
day 17 miles.
William Clayton put up two
guide boards during the day, one
at 10 and the other at 20 miles
from Fort John (or Laramie). The Levi N. Kendall
Missouri company camped for the April 19, 1822, Lockport, New York —
night a little east of the pioneers.
March 10, 1903, Springville, Utah
They said that two more companies
had arrived at Fort Laramie that
morning, just as they had left, and that three bear, and mountain sheep during the day.
other companies were within 30 miles of Fort Levi Newell Kendall, one of the 143 Utah pi-
Laramie. The Missouri company, which had oneers, whose portrait is given herewith, was
left Independence, Missouri, April 22, passed born in Lockport, New York, April 19, 1822.
the pioneers early in the day. The pioneers He, with John Eldredge and Stephen Kelsey,
found the road very crooked, but not bad for was on guard the night the band of 15 Pawnee
traveling. About dark it rained some, accom- Indians entered the enclosure on the bank of
panied by lightning and thunder. the Loup Fork River. He first discovered the
Orson Pratt writes that the evening en- Indians and, together with Stephen Kelsey,
campment was made at a point where the fired over their heads, frightening them away
grass was very good and timber much more and alarming the campers. Who came pouring
plentiful than below Fort Laramie. It consisted in from their wagons, with a rifle in one hand
of ash, cottonwood, willows, and box elders and clothing in the other.
in the lower places, while mountain cherry, Mr. Kendall, John Eldredge, and two others
wild currants, pine, and cedar grew thinly prevented what might have been a dangerous
scattered upon the bluffs. The wild sage grew stampede in the Black Hills. The cow herd,
in great quantities and increased in size as with jingling bells, stampeded the lead teams,
the country increased in elevation. The wild the others following in the direction of and
rose also flourished in great abundance and close to a deep ravine. But, plying vigorously
the principal herbs and plants of this elevated their whips over the heads of the terrified
region were highly odoriferous, perfuming the oxen, they soon compelled them to stop, thus
atmosphere with their fragrance. A thun- preventing a serious catastrophe.
der shower passed over the camp just after Mr. Kendall was with Orson Pratt’s advance
sundown. company that entered the Valley July 22. He
After the evening encampment was made, was also one of the first to start plowing in
George A. Smith and Thomas Bullock went the Valley, being with George W. Brown, John
to the top of the bluffs, where they found Eldredge, William Carter, and others when
President Young, Heber C. Kimball, and Wil- the incident took place. Mr. Kindall resided in
lard Richards viewing the country with their Springville for years, but moved to Maple-
telescopes. They could clearly discern snow ton, where he resided in 1897. He died in
on the top of Laramie Peak. An antelope was Springville, March 10, 1903.
killed and the pioneers had seen signs of elk,
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 63 • Sunday, June 6
This morning was cloudy and cool, and it
looked like rain in the pioneer camp. At 8 p.m.
the 11 Missouri wagons, which had camped
a short distance back, passed the pioneers
again.
At 9 o’clock some of the brethren assem-
bled for a prayer meeting near the pioneer
camp. Erastus Snow, Jesse C. Little, and others
occupied the time. Elder Thomas Bullock says
that the prayer meeting was a good and spir-
ited one and continued until 10:30 a.m. Elder
Bullock read the camp rules to the brethren,
after which the meeting was adjourned by
President Young to assemble again in an hour.
At 11 a.m. four mounted Missourians came
to the pioneer camp, being a part of another
company of Mosourians who had camped at
Warm Springs the previous night. Some of
them were recognized by the brethren; they
seemed a little afraid and not fond of the
pioneers’ company. They said the old settlers
had all fled from Chariton, Missouri, except
two tavern-keepers.
At 11:30 a.m., the horn having been blown,
the brethren again assembled for a meet-
ing, while thunder rolled in the distance
and increased in volume. President Young,
seeing the van of the next emigrant company
approaching the camp, gave orders to Colonel
Rockwood to see that the pioneer cattle were
driven out of the way, and, as the storm was
commencing, he also directed that the meet-
ing should be dismissed, which was done.
The brethren had scarcely got to their wagons
before the storm passed over the camp. It was
accompanied by lightning and heavy thunder.
During the storm, the Missouri company,
traveling with 19 wagons and two carriages,
passed the pioneers. Most of their wagons had
five yokes of cattle to each and few less than
four. They and many cows, horses and young
cattle, and their guide was a man who lived on
the St. Mary’s River near the Columbia River,
Oregon. He said the pioneers would find water
again about six miles farther on, after which
there would be no more for 15 miles, or until
they reached Horseshoe Creek.
The pioneers, on hearing this, thought it
best to travel a short distance in the after-
noon; and, as the weather cleared up soon
after 12 p.m., the teams were gathered up,
and at 2:30 p.m. the company began to move
forward, traveling along the banks of Cotton-
wood Creek (also called Bitter Cottonwood
Creek). About three-quarters of a mile they
crossed that small stream again, and two
miles farther on they arrived at a sudden bend
in the road where it turned around a ravine to
the south about 200 yards, and then suddenly
63
turned to the north the same dis-
tance. This was occasioned by the
water having washed a deep gulch
where the road ought to run. The
wagons then crossed Cottonwood
Creek once more.
A mile beyond this crossing the
wagons came to a halt in a body of
timber and brushwood at 4 p.m.
and waited about 40 minutes, while
the brethren on horseback, namely
Heber C. Kimball and Wilford
Woodruff, went ahead to look for
a camping ground. These brethren
returned at 4:40 p.m. and the camp
proceeded on the journey.
Having traveled one-quarter of
a mile, they passed the camp of the
19 wagons close by the timber, a
little south of the road. Several of
the men came to the pioneer camp
to look at the roadometer, having
heard from some of the brethren
that the pioneers had one. They ex- Albert P. Rockwood
pressed a wish to each other to see June 5, 1805, Holliston, Massachusetts
the little machine inside of the box;
— Nov. 26, 1879, Salt Lake City
they looked upon it as a curiosity.
At a quarter past 5 p.m. the pio-
neers formed their evening encampment in a fix it. He was told that there was, and after
oblong circle at the foot of a low bluff on the they were camped, Burr Frost set up his forge
west and close by water, having traveled five and welded the spring ready to put on before
miles in the afternoon. The feed here was very dark.
good and plentiful. The wind blew strong from In the evening Willard Richards, hav-
the west. The road had been very crooked ing heard that letters could be sent to San
during the day, running mostly in a southwest Francisco by the Mossouri companies, wrote
and west course, along the bank of the stream a letter to Elder Samual Brannan, giving him
on which they had camped the previous night. particulars of the situation of the saints. This
There was plenty of timber all along and the letter was copied by Thomas Bullock and
soil looked good on the lowlands. afterward read in President Young’s wagon
In the ottomans, where the encampment to the president, Heber C. Kimball, Willard
was made, there was an abundance of sweet Richards, and Wilford Woodruff, who were
cicely and also some back currents and goose- satisfied with it.
berries. Albert P. Rockwood was one of the pioneers
During the day the pioneers passed through of Brigham Young’s company, and was closely
a grove of cottonwood and willow trees, which related to the great leader, being in some
was quite a variety on this part of the journey. company of 10 with the three Young brothers,
In fact, they saw more timber that day than of which Phineas H. Young was the captain.
they had seen at any time since they had left Mr. Rockwood afterward acted as the over-
Grand Island. seer of the pioneer stockade in the valley, and
The first company of Missourians with their returned to Winter Quarters with Brigham
11 wagons were encamped that night a little Young, leaving the Valley in August 1847. In
ahead of the pioneer camp. Thus the pioneers later years he was a Utah legislator and be-
were encamped between the two Missouri came prominently identified with the militia
companies. One of the men in the company in the “Echo Canyon Campaign.” He was born
of the 19 wagons informed George A. Smith in Holliston, Middlesex County, Massachu-
that he had broken his carriage spring and setts, June 5, 1805, and died in Sugarhouse
seemed much troubled to know what to do to Ward, Salt Lake County, November 26, 1879.
get along. He asked Brother Smith if there was
any man in the pioneer company who could
64
Day 64 • Monday, June 7
The morning was fine in the pioneer camp.
A heavy dew had fallen during the night. Elder
Pratt gave William Clayton some instructions
on the use of the sextant and showed him how
to take an observation.
At 6:30 a.m. the second Missouri company
again passed the pioneers. This company had
19 wagons, two buggies, 25 horses, 73 yoke
of oxen, and about 100 cows. At ten minutes
past 7 the pioneers commenced their onward
course. The company traveled until 11 a.m.
and then halted to feed on the west bank of
small steam and spring of clear water (Bear
Creek) in latitude 42 degrees 21 minutes 51
seconds, or 38 miles from Laramie, having
traveled 7¾ miles, mostly in a north, north-
westerly direction.
The road was even and afforded good
traveling. Soon after the noon halt was made
another company of Missourians passed the
pioneers, having 13 wagons, 14 horses, and 43
yoke of oxen, mostly four yoke of oxen to each
wagon. They also had 64 cows. This company
was from Andrew County, Missouri.
At 12:25 p.m. the pioneers moved forward.
Having traveled a quarter of a mile, they
began to ascend a bluff which measured a
quarter of a mile from the bottom to the top,
the ascent being gradual and tolerably steep.
From the top of this hill they had as pleasant
a view of the surrounding country as was ever
witnessed. Laramie Peak was seen on the
southwest, and from that around to the west,
north of northeast the pioneers enjoyed a very
extensive view of a beautiful country for many
miles, or as far as the eye could survey. Broth-
er Clayton was satisfied that the Black Hills,
of which Laramie Peak was a prominent part,
were so named from the vast forests of pine
trees (of a dark green color) which covered
their surface.
Laramie peak continued to be the most
prominent landmark for several days, and
its summit, covered with snow, rose majesti-
cally from the surrounding lower hills, ever
pointing out the road from the east to the west
for the army of emigrants then making the
journey.
The pioneers passed many fine trees close
to the road, and there was no lack of good pine
timber.
Orson Pratt explained that the snow on the
summit of Laramie Peak acted as a condenser
upon the vapor of the atmosphere, which
came within its vicinity, thrust generating
clouds which were precipitated in showers
upon the surrounding country. He said that
the thunder showers which had visited the
company nearly every afternoon seemed to
originate in the vicinity of the peak.
The ridge over which the pioneers passed
was half a mile across from the southeast to
the northwest foot. At that distance the pio-
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Emigrants’ Camp on the Platte
(From a wood engraving printed in the London Art Journal)
neers began to descend and they had to lock
the wagons in several places. The descent was
rendered difficult by the many large cobble
stones scattered in the road. Many of the
brethren threw them out of the road as they
went along, and the road was thereby much
improved. They dug down some of the high
places and leveled others, thus making the
road much better for other companies.
At 3:30 p.m. the pioneers arrived at Horse-
shoe Creek and formed their encampment on
the bottom lands, near the timber, or rather in
the midst of a grove of ash, cottonwood, etc.,
having traveled 5¼ miles that afternoon over
crooked roads, and during the day 13 miles.
On this campground was one of the clearest
and largest springs of water the pioneers
had seen for a long time. Elder Kimball, who
discovered it, called it his spring, or Heber’s
Spring. The creek also was clear, and had trout
in it. The pioneers found the feed here much
better and more plentiful than farther back.
An abundance of wild mint and sage also grew
in this region.
The three Missouri companies all were
within two miles ahead when the pioneers
arrived at Horseshoe Creek, but most of them
went on a few miles farther that evening.
A little before the pioneers stopped, a thun-
derstorm occurred which lasted upward of an
hour. During the latter part of it, it rained very
heavily, accompanied by hail and lightning.
The hunters killed two long tailed deer and
an antelope, which was distributed as usual.
Brother Crow’s hunter also killed a deer, but
the Crow company was unwilling to conform
to the rules of the pioneer camp in dividing
their meat, and so reserved it all for them-
selves. Brother Crow observed that if they
obtained more meat than they would use they
would be willing to let the camp have some.
Some of the other companies killed an ante-
lope, took off the quarters and left the balance
on the ground. Brother Pack picked it up and
brought it along.
After the company had stopped, Brother
Crow came near meeting with an accident
while endeavoring to yoke up a pair of wild
steers. It took a number of men, having lariats
on their saddle horns to hold them. They got
the lariats entangled round the legs of the
animals, and Brother Crow. In throwing one
of the steers down, Brother Crow went down
also. The brethren cut the rope and he was
liberated without injury.
It was reported that Myers, the hunter, was
in the habit of roasting the young antlers of
the deer and eating them. In regard to Brother
Crow’s meat, etc., it was learned afterward
that the whole family had to depend on Myers
for what they ate, having no breadstuff nor
anything else for food, except what he could
kill, and the little flour and meal paid to him
for a part of the ferryage, he having a small
claim on Mr. Bordeaux.
It had been an uneventful day in the train,
barring the pleasure derived by hailing the
passing travelers in the other trains. It helped
to give a feeling of security to each company,
and allay their fears of an Indian invasion by
the proximity of the several parties of white
men, even though only a limited intercourse
was established between the different fac-
tions.
Some traders on their way east also were
expected to pass by in few days, and the pio-
neers were busily engaged in writing letters
to send to their families or friends in Winter
Quarters.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 65 • Tuesday, June 8
This morning was fine, though cool, in the
pioneer camp. At 7:30 a.m. the pioneers pro-
ceeded on their journey, crossing Horseshoe
Creek, which was about a rod wide and took
a bend to the left. They traveled two and a
quarter miles, winding around the foot of high
bluffs, and then began to ascend them. They
found this ascent the worst they had ever had,
there being three-quarters of a mile of steep
grade, and in that distance seven very steep
rises. On most of the steep places the brethren
had to use double teams.
They saw buffalo about half a mile to the
south, which was the first they had seen since
about the 21st of May. Two and one-half miles
from the east foot of the bluff they passed over
a small creek, nearly dry, and then ascended
another high bluff, but not nearly as bad a rise
as the other one. At 11:45 a.m. they halted for
noon near a very small creek, but little water
in it, having traveled six and three-fourths
miles over hills and valleys, the roads being
very crooked.
About 11 a.m. Brother Crow’s daughter
Harriat stepped on a wagon tongue to get a
drink of water, as the teams had stopped near
the descent of a bluff. Her coat was caught by
the wagon hammer and she fell to the ground
as the oxen suddenly started. Her husband
seized her, pulled her body from under the
wheel, but her coat being still tangled on the
wagon hammer, she could not clearly extricate
her before the front wheel passed over her left
thigh and ankle. Fortunately, no bones were
broken. She was very bruised and in great
pain, but before night was considerably better.
The latitude of this noon encampment was
42 degrees 29 minutes 58 seconds, 50 miles
from Fort Laramie on the Oregon Road.
The pioneers had formed a company of
men who during the day went forward of the
teams to clear the road of stones. For this pur-
pose the brethren used pickaxes, bars, spades,
etc., and their labors proved a great help to
the teams. Thus Elder Willard Richards, with
Albert P. Rockwood, Albert Carrington, Jacob
Weiler, James Craigh, and Horace Thronton
worked all day, while Horace K. Whitney and
Burr Frost worked in the forenoon and Arti-
mus Johnson in the afternoon, clearing the
road of the stones, preparing the way for the
teams to follow.
The pioneers saw nothing of the Mi-
sourians that day, but John S. Higbee went
forward in the morning to see them start out,
and there was so much strife among them
as to which should get off first that they did
not wait to milk their cows, and in clearing
up their breakfast they strewed malt, salt,
bacon, shortcake, Johnny cake, beans, and
other things upon the ground through their
65
encampment. When the pioneers
arrived at the place they found
three wolves feeding upon the
fragments.
At 1:40 p.m. the pioneers contin-
ued their journey. After traveling
a little over a mile and half they
passed another small creek and
again ascended a high bluff. They
found this ridge more uneven than
the other, it being a perfect succes-
sion of hills and hollows for five
miles. The road, however, was good
and hard. While traveling on the
top the wind blew very strong from
the west and it was so cold that the
brethren suffered some.
The road over the bluff was very
crooked, but mostly bending to the
north. After traveling five miles
they began to descend rapidly, and
while watching the roadometer
Brother Clayton discovered that it
did not work right, which made him
pay more attention to it.
At 5:50 p.m. the pioneers crossed
William Shin Wordsworth
a stream about 30 feet wide and March 5, 1810, Woodstown, New Jersey —
nearly two feet deep with a very Jan. 18, 1888, Springville, Utah
swift current. This stream was
named on Fremont’s map La Bonte
River (also called Big Timber Creek). The carry mail for the pioneers to Laramie.
pioneers formed their encampment on the Willard Richarcs and Thomas Bullock
west bank of this stream in the timber, having visited the traders and were joined by Wilford
traveled during the afternoon eight and three- Woodruff. The traders reported that the dis-
fourths miles and during the day 15½ miles. tance to the crossing of the Platte was about
While traveling over the hills this day the 50 miles and that there was good feed on the
pioneers found the weather cold as winter. route. Mr. Bridger’s home was about 300 miles
When they reached the place of their evening from the pioneer camp and people could ride
encampment they found fires which the from Fort Bridger to the Great Salt Lake in
Missouri companies traveling in advance of two days. The traders also spoke of the valley
them had built. The pioneers piled more wood around Utah Lake as a beautiful country.
on these fires and were soon able to warm These traders were part of the company
themselves. which had lost their cattle in a storm on the
An antelope, which the hunters had killed Sweetwater (see under date of June 1). George
and brought to camp, was carved or cut up A. Smith and others sent letters by them to
with knives and stuck upon sticks and roasted Fort Laramie.
at the fires. It satisfied the travelers’ appetites, The evening was very cold in the pioneer
although they had to eat without salt. camp and there was very much appearance
Immediately after camping, William Tucker of rain. Porter said he had been on the Platte,
and another trapper or trader paid a visit to which was about four miles from the camp,
the pioneer camp. Mr. Tucker was sick with following the course of the La Bonte.
chills and fever and Dr. Johnson administered William Shin Wordsworth is the pioneer
to him. James H. Grieve was the principal or whose portrait appears with today’s recital. He
leader of the little company which was carry- was born in Woodstown, Salem County, New
ing peltries from Fort Bridger to Fort Laramie. Jersey, March 5, 1810, and died in Springville,
William Tucker (an American) and James Wo- Utah, January 18, 1888. He was a member
odrie, James Beouvoir, and six other French- of the sixth ten, of which Charles Shumway
men, with two squaws, two wagons, three was captain, and arrived in the valley with
carts, etc., made up the company, which was Brigham Young on July 24. One month after-
camped one and a half miles from the pioneer ward he was again on the road with the leader
camp. These men were the men expected to going back to Winter Quarters.
66
Day 66 • Wednesday, June 9
A moderate west wind, with a clear sky,
rendered the morning serene and pleasant in
the pioneer camp.
About sunrise the pioneers moved onward
about a mile to find better grass, keeping hear
the La Bonte, and at 5:45 a.m. they halted
for breakfast beside the traders’ camp, and
turned their teams out to graze. The brethren
traded with the trappers for robes, moccasins,
skin shirts and pants.
While the pioneers halted, Brother William
Clayton got the roadometer fixed again and
also put up a guide board marked “To Fort
John, 60 miles.” These traders or mountain-
eers said they had left a kind of gerry boat
made of three buffalo skins, hung in a tree on
the Platte and wanted Brother Crow’s com-
pany and Mr. Myers to have it. It was decided
to send a company ahead, pass the Missouri
companies and get this ferry boat before the
Missourians could arrive and also to build a
raft on which the pioneers could cross the riv-
er; they were also to kill game, etc. The traders
had said it was about 70 miles to the crossing
of the river. Nineteen pioneer wagons were
sent ahead with about 40 men to attend to
this business. All of Brother Crow’s company
went; also Aaron F. Farr, R. Jackson Redden,
the “Revenue Cutter,” etc. Altogether five
wagons from the first and 14 from the second
division went. The wagons started about half
an hour before the regular pioneer company
broke camp. The traders started about the
same time, going east.
The main camp resumed the journey at
7:45 a.m., taking a turn to the left. The breth-
ren, after traveling a short distance, had to go
over a hill and then descend into a valley full
of red sand and red stone which some of the
brethren thought should be named Red Valley.
After traveling 3¾ miles they came to a very
clear and pretty creek (Wagon Hound Creek)
about 10 feet wide.
In crossing this creek the pioneers found
the banks very steep as they descended into
the stream, but they soon improved the road
with their spades, hoes, and pickaxes. Most
of the teams, however, required assistance
in crossing. Some of the brethren remarked
that the pioneers worked their road tax in full,
as they generally had 10 or 12 men detached
daily, whose business it was to go in advance
of the company with spades, iron bars, and
other necessary implements to work the road.
Moreover, they had measured the road with
their roadometer and placed guide posts every
10 miles since they left Laramie.
About 1¼ miles west of Wagon Hound
Creek, President Young and Heber C. Kimball
saw a large toad near a pile of rocks, which
had horns on its head, and a tail. For half a
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
mile before the pioneers crossed
Wagon Hound Creek, and 3½
miles after, their road laid over a
tract of country covered with red
earth or sand about the color of red
precipitate.
The pioneers took a circuitous
route passing a pyramid of stone
almost the shape of a sugar loaf.
Continuing the journey in a north-
westerly direction until 11:45 a.m.,
they halted for noon on the bed of
a dry creek, or in a valley without
water.
During their forenoon travel they
found on their route some moun-
tain flax, a quantity of artemisia
(sage brush). The day was fine with
a nice west breeze. The road was
very cooked, hilly and mostly rocky,
many large cobblestones covering
the bluffs; the land was barren and
grass scarce.
Soon after starting in the morn-
ing, four men passed the pioneers
with pack horses and mules. They Tarlton Lewis
said they were from Pueblo and
May 18, 1805, Pendleton, South Carolina
going to Green River, but they told
others they were from Santa Fe and
— Nov. 22, 1890, Teasdale, Utah
were going to San Francisco via the
Great Salt Lake. They informed the pioneers they formed their encampment about 6 p.m.
that the Mormon Battalion had reached on the east bank of a swift-running stream (La
California and that Captain James Brown had Prele), about seven yards wide. About a mile
gone to Santa Fe from Pueblo to get money from where the road crossed the creek, it ran
for his detachment, and that he and his men through a tunnel a distance of from 10 to 20
would be following in the wake of the pio- rods under the high rocky bluffs. It seemed
neers shortly, journeying from Pueblo to Great as though this tunnel had been formed by
Salt Lake Valley. They also said that General some strange feat of nature. The evening was
Kearney had had an engagement with the fine but cool. Starling Driggs had killed an
Mexicans and was wounded in three places antelope and a deer.
by a spear and that his recovery was doubtful. When the main company of the pioneers
These men further reported that the Mormons rode up to this creek (La Prele) in the evening
at Pueblo were dissatisfied and some of them they overtook their little pioneer company
spoke of returning to the states and to their which had been sent out in the morning to
families; they were now about 15 days’ march build a ferry boat on the Platte. The Missouri
from Pueblo traveling towards Fort Laramie. company was also in sight, notwithstanding
At 2:30 p.m. the pioneers were on the move their exertions to get ahead of the pioneers.
again. Brother Clayton put up another guide The advance pioneer company followed the
board a little east of the creek, stating that the Missouri company and the tow companies
spot was 70 miles from Fort John. They found camped together that night.
the road much better in the afternoon, not Tarlton Lewis, pioneer of UTah, was born in
being so uneven, and tolerably straight, ex- Pendleton, South Carolina, May 18, 1805. He
cepting a bluff to climb a mile from the creek. had been identified with all the early Church
During the afternoon President Young, He- movements since 1837, and after arriving in
ber C. Kimball, Wilford Woodruff, and others the Salt Lake Valley he remained until 1850,
rode ahead of the company. After traveling when he moved to Iron County, with George
six and one-fourth miles from the noon halt, A. Smith. He moved to Minersville, Beaver
the pioneers passed a small creek and again County, in 1859, and to Richfield in 1873.
three-quarters of a mile farther passed the From there he went to Teasdale, Wayne Coun-
same creek. After traveling about eight miles ty, where he died November 22, 1890.
in the afternoon and 19¼ miles during the day
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 67 • Thursday, June 10
The morning was calm and pleasant in the
pioneer camp. Considerable dew had been
deposited during the night. There was wild
mint growing on the bank of La Prele Creek in
great abundance and plenty of wild sage on
the higher land.
The pioneer started at 7:30 a.m., crossed
La Prele Creek and found good roads, taking
a north, then a west and again a north course.
On ascending a hill about 8:30 a.m. they saw
the Platte River and one of the Missouri com-
panies about three miles ahead.
After traveling four and one-half miles they
passed over a small creek about three feet
wide, the water in it being only a few inches
deep. A mile farther they passed another creek
about five feet wide, with clear water. They
had several long, steep bluffs to ascend and
descend and two places at the creeks, where
it was hard for the teams to get up without
help. Edmund Ellsworth killed an antelope.
There was good feed at this place and plenty
of it. The road was crooked, mostly winding
northward.
The pioneers halted at 11:15 a.m. on the
Fourche Boisee (or Box Elder Creek) to water,
feed and rest their horses. There was some
good grass on the banks of the river, also
skunkwood, cottonwood, and other trees and
willows. All the country was covered with
artemisia (sage brush), thus named by John
C. Fremont, but some of the brethren called
it “southern wood.” It grew with a slight
intermingling of salt grass. The Fourche Boisee
Creek was about 30 feet wide and tolerably
deep, with a rapid current.The latitude of the
noon encampment was 42 degrees 51 minutes
5 seconds, according to Orson Pratt. This camp
was 86 miles from Fort Laramie.
At 1:30 p.m. the pioneers resumed the jour-
ney and traveled in nearly a straight line north
and a little north of west over a good road.
President Young and Heber C. Kimball
rode with the main company. William Clayton
put up a guide board in the morning: “Eighty
miles from Fort John,” and in the afternoon,
after traveling three and one-quarter miles
from the noon halt, he put up another board
marked 90 miles. Just as he finished setting it,
looking forward, he saw the Platte River again,
and after traveling four hours from the noon
encampment, the pioneers found themselves
once more on that river, after descending a
steep hill about half a mile long, where they
were obliged to lock wheels.
They reached the river bottom at 3 p.m.
after having traveled 77 miles since they left
the river on Saturday, June 5th. Since that
time they had been winding around among the
hills and bluffs all the way. When they arrived
near the river, the road was more level, but
sandy and harder on the teams. There were
also some low places where the water stood
in pools, making the ground soft, but scarcely
any feed for teams after leaving the creek at
noon.
Wilford Woodruff examined a splendid
grindstone quarry on the east side of the road
as it left the hills and struck the Platte River.
This natural stone quarry was about 30 rods
long above ground and was easy access.
Nine miles from their noon halt the pio-
neers crossed Deer Creek, which at that point
was about 50 feet wide and two feet deep with
coarse gravel or pebble stone bottom and a
swift current of clear water. The night en-
campment was made at 5:30 p.m. on the left,
or west, bank of this creek in a grove of timber
one-half mile from the Platte.
The distance traveled during the day was
17¾ miles, the last five miles being nearly
a west course. The latitude of the mouth
of Deer Creek (where the town of Glenrock
now stands) was 42 degrees 52 minutes 50
seconds. It was 95¾ miles from Fort Laramie,
according to Orson Pratt’s observations.
Soon after camping, Horace K. Whitney
went fishing in Deer Creek, as the pioneers
soon became satisfied there were plenty of
fish in the stream. Brother Clayton got a line
and by fishing until a little after dark he caught
24 nice fish, which averaged more than half
a pound each. Horace K. Whitney caught a
catfish and two suckers. A number of the
brethren also caught fish in greater or lesser
quantities. The brethren might have caught
enough fish for the whole camp with a seine,
but it had been sent ahead with those who had
gone to build a raft on the Platte.
Some of the brethren discovered two rich
beds of coal, where any quantity might easily
be mined. One of these was found a few rods
from camp, the other about a quarter a mile
away.
The lower land near Deer Creek was rich,
and Brother Clayton thought it would yield
good groups of grain, potatoes, etc. Four
antelope altogether were killed and brought to
camp during the day, of which Lewis Barney
killed one.
The Twelve and some others walked on to
the river bank, about one-quarter of a mile up-
stream, examined the river feed, had prayers
and returned to camp.
Thomas Bullock describes Deer Creek as
a very pretty stream of water about 30 feet
wide and 20 inches deep. He writes: “This is
the prettiest place we have yet camped at; we
found plenty of grass. It is a beautiful timber
spot, consisting chiefly of cottonwood, ash,
boxelder, chokecherry, and willows.”
Erastus Snow writes: “I have been agreeably
surprised in the country of the Black Hills over
which we have traveled a distance of 90 miles
from Fort Laramie. Instead of sand and contin-
ual barrenness without water, as I had expect-
67
Chauncey Loveland
October, 1795, Glasgow, Connecticut
— Aug. 16, 1876, Bountiful, Utah
ed, we have found hard roads through the hills
and, at convenient distances, beautiful creeks
skirted with timber and bottoms covered with
grass, though the country otherwise presents
generally a rough and barren appearance.”
Chauncey Loveland, whose portrait is here-
with given, was born in Glasgow, Connecticut,
October, 1795, He came with his parents to
Ohio in 1803, and married Nancy Graham
in Madison, Ohio, in 1815. After his father’s
death Chauncey came into possession of
the homestead in Madison. He was of a very
industrious disposition and never content
unless profitably employed.
In 1836 he moved to Lorain County, Ohio,
where he lived about five years. His sons Levi
and Chester joined the Church in 1837 and
moved in 1840 to Carthage, where they were
soon joined by their parents. Here his wife and
son died.
In the spring of 1846 he married Mrs. Sally
Horn Crockett, and after joining the Church
started with other members of it for Council
Bluffs, Iowa. In 1847 he came to Utah with
the pioneers, leaving his family at the Bluffs.
In 1848 he crossed the plains again, taking
his family with him. They settled at Bountiful,
Utah, ten miles north of Salt Lake City.
The remaining years of his life he resided
on his farm and took great pride in securing
fine horses. In disposition he was kind and
unassuming and never aspired to positions
in public life. As a pioneer and adventurer he
ranked among the bravest. His life was full of
love for his fellowmen, which was manifested
by his good deeds toward them. He died in
Bountiful, August 16, 1876, and was buried in
the Bountiful Cemetery.
68
Day 68 • Friday, June 11
The morning was fine and pleasant in the
pioneer camp, with a beautiful clear sky and
a light breeze from the east. Orson Pratt took
a barometric observation at 4 a.m. and found
that the elevation of the previous night’s
encampment was 4,864 feet.
The place reminded Brother Clayton
of England. The calm, still morning, with
warbling of many birds, the rich grass, good
streams and plenty of timber made everything
pleasant.
Thomas Bullock wrote directions for the
next company of saints on a skull which he
stuck in the ground near his wagon. He also
planted a hill of corn, as he had done several
times before.
At 7:30 a.m. the camp left Deer Creek
and again continued their journey along the
banks of the Platte River, which appeared
somewhat wider here than at Laramie. At 4½
miles Brother Clayton put up a guide board
marked 100 miles from Larmie. At 11:30 a.m.
they halted for noon on the flat bottoms, in a
grove of cottonwoods where there was plenty
of good feed for a large company. The country
traveled this forenoon was generally level, but
sandy and crooked, and there was no grass.
About a mile back the pioneers came
around a bend to the south caused by a deep
ravine, and they had to travel more than a
mile to make a quarter of a mile directly. Wil-
liam Empey, Edmund Ellsworth, and Francis
M. Pomeroy each killed an antelope.
Several of the presthern had taken an
interest in guide boards, and wherever they
saw a piece of board sufficiently large, they
picked it up and preserved it. By this means
the pioneers had enough boards to mark the
road for 200 miles. This distance they traveled
since morning was 9¼ miles, being 105 miles
in the week, including Sunday, or 100 miles
in six days.
Half a mile east of the noon halting place
the pioneers crossed a small creek of muddy
water. About half an hour after the camp
halted Brother Joseph Hancock came in with
the hind quarters of an antelope which he
had killed about three miles back. Not being
able to carry the remainder, he left it on the
ground. Henson Walker, Charles Barnum, and
Brother Owens each killed an antelope in the
afternoon, making eight kills during the day.
While journeying along, some of the pio-
neers rode their horses into the river several
times to see if they could find a fording place,
but they were unsuccessful in finding any, as
the stream had risen by the melting of snow
in the mountains. Some snow was seen all
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
day on the higher
mountain peaks.
At 2 p.m. the
camp started again.
After traveling one
mile, they crossed a
very rapid, muddy
creek (Muddy
Creek) about 12 feet
wide and over a foot
deep. The descent
and ascent were
both bad on account
of a crook from one
to the other. There
was plenty of feed
on its banks, but no
wood.
The pioneers
watered their cattle,
crossed the creek
and then traveled
over a road which in
the main was level.
After traveling 5¾
miles farther they
crossed another
muddy creek about On the Banks of the Upper Platte
three feet wide. The
crossing was bad on (From a wood engraving published
account of the clay in the London Art Journal)
being very soft on
its banks. companies. The Missourians who had a light,
At half past 5 o’clock the pioneers came to a flat boat with them, were building a raft and
halt on account of seeing a number of wagons had already got one load over.
about a mile ahead which proved to be two of They said they had killed three bears
the Missouri companies camped on the banks between their camping place and the bluffs,
of the river and preparing to cross over. When and had also killed a buffalo. The pioneers
it was ascertained that there was no camping had seen signs of bears a number of times, but
ground beyond, unless the company would no bears for a certainty. They had only seen
travel some distance, the pioneers decided one buffalo since they left Laramie until today,
to turn off to the river opposite where they when several had been seen.
were and camp for the night, and the wagons The Missourians also told the brethren that
proceeded accordingly. They went a half mile on the previous day their teams had taken
from the road and at 6 o’clock formed their fright by the running of a horse, whereby two
encampment near the river, where there was of their wagons had been upset. One woman
plenty of timber in a cottonwood grove, about and two children were considerably injured,
half a mile from the Missourians, having but no bones were broken. Some crockery,
come on the road this afternoon 7¾ miles and etc., was destroyed in the accident.
during the day 17 miles. The feed here was Thomas Bullock writes that the two camps
good and plentiful. of Mossourians half a mile off made ten times
Heber C. Kimball, Wilford Woodruff, Ezra more noise than the whole pioneer camp. The
T. Benson, and George A. Smith, who had gone brethren could clearly hear their bawling and
ahead on horseback, reported a crossing of profanity.
the Platte some 10 or 12 miles farther on. The The advance company of the pioneers,
Missourians informed the pioneers that the which had been sent ahead of the main com-
men sent ahead had gone on to that place, pany in the morning of June 9, arrived at the
and so also had the balance of the Missouri ferry. (See June 12).
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 69 • Saturday, June 12
The morning was very fine in the pioneer
camp and a pleasant east breeze prevailed.
Mr. Bowman, the leader of one of the
Missouri companies, told Brother Stephen
Markham that he was the father of “Bill”
Bowman, who had the custody of the Prophet
Joseph Smith at the time he escaped from
Missouri, together with his fellow prisoners.
“Bill” Bowman was ridden to death on a bar
of iron, and Obediah Jennings was the leader
of the mob who did it, the killing taking place
either 1841 or 1842. This Obediah Jennings
was a mob leader at the Haun’s Mill massacre.
Brothers Wilford Woodruff and George A.
Smith then rode ahead of the main company
to the ferry and found that the little detach-
ment which the pioneers had sent ahead had
arrived there about noon the day before, or
four hours before any of the Missourians.
While waiting for the arrival of the main com-
pany of pioneers the Missourains had offered
to pay them well if they would carry their
company over in the boat (“Revenue Cutter”).
A contract was made to do this for $1.50 per
load, the brethren to receive their pay in flour
at $2.50 per hundred, when flour was general-
ly considered to be worth $10 per hundred in
that part of the country. Accepting this liberal
offer, the brethren commenced the ferrying.
Their skiff of sole leather (“Revenue Cut-
ter”), which could carry from 1500 to 1800
pounds, was at once put to the test, but it was
found to be no easy task to cross the river at
this point. The ferrymen carried their goods
over in the skiff and swimming the empty
wagons over by hand, assisted with ropes;
but when the currents took them, the wagons
would frequently roll over several times in the
water and smash their bows. They also came
close to drowning their horses.
In the afternoon of the previous day one of
the men belonging to the Missouri company
undertook to swim across the river with his
clothes on. When he reached the current he
became frightened and began to moan. Some
of the pioneer brethren went to him with the
“Revenue Cutter: and arrived in time to save
his life.
The brethren finished their work in the eve-
ning and received their pay, mostly in flour, a
little meal and some bacon. Thus they earned
$34 with the “Revenue Cutter,” to be paid in
provisions. This proved a great blessing to the
camp, inasmuch as a number of the brethren
had had no breadstuff for some days. They
had ferried over 24 wagons at $1.50 each,
receiving their pay in flour at $2.50 per hun-
dred, meal at 50 cents per bushel and bacon
at 6 cents per pound. They had also done
some blacksmithing for the emigrants, who
were chiefly from Jackson, Clay, Lafayette, and
69
Davies Counties, Missouri.
When the brethren first began
ferrying for these Missourians,
they (the Missourians) were armed
with bowie knives and pistols, but
before the brethren had finished
their work, the men put all these
weapons away and, having put
away their fears also, they were
civil and kind to the brethren, often
inviting them to partake of coffee
and biscuits; and when the job was
finished they made quite a feast for
the brethren on tea, coffee, biscuits,
butter, meat and other good things.
A few miles from the ferry the
hunters in the advance company
had been busily engaged getting
game. They had killed five fat
buffalo, two antelope, four bears,
one old she bear and three cubs;
the paw of the she bear measured
ten inches between the spread of
the toes. The claws were 2¾ inches
long. The mountains near the camp
seemed to abound with bears and Lewis Barney
other game. Sept. 8, 1808, Niagara County, New York
The company of five traders — Nov. 5, 1894, Mancos, Colorado
previously mentioned were camped
near the brethren of the advance
company, and Elder Woodruff visited the trad- from Fort Laramie. The Platte at this place
ers’ camp, where the men were also drying was usually forded, but at this time of year the
fine, fat buffalo meat. river was quite high, the water in the channel
At 8:15 o’clock the main company of being 15 feet deep in places and the river 100
pioneers continued their journey. At 11:45 yards wide. Here the pioneers overtook one
a.m. they halted, after crossing several small of the foremost companies of the Missouri or
creeks and ravines, having traveled 7¾ miles Oregon emigrants.
during the forenoon over a sandy, barren Lewis Barney of the pioneer company,
prairie. whose portrait is given herewith, was born Ni-
James Case and Stephen Markham went to agara County, New York, September 8, 1808,
the river opposite the camping place to see if and died in Mancos, Colorado, November 5,
it could be forded. They waded their horses 1894. He was distinguished as one of the best
over and found the water about four feet six hunters in the camp. He returned to the states
inches deep in the channel and the current in 1847, but came back to the Valley in 1852
very swift. Consequently, it could not be and settled in Provo, where he engaged in the
forded with loads in the wagons. The loading lumber business.
would have to be ferried in the boat. It was He moved to Spanish Fork and, in 1861,
finally concluded to go up to the other ferry. went to Spring City. From there he migrated
The camp, accordingly, started at 2:30 p.m. to South Bend, now Monroe, Sevier County,
and, after traveling 3¼ miles, the pioneers which he helped to settle in 1864. Monroe
crossed a creek about five feet wide. town was abandoned in 1866 on account of
At 4:30 p.m. the encampment was formed Indian troubles, and he, with others, returned
on the banks of the river, having come four to Spring City, but they settled in Monroe
miles in the afternoon and 11¼ miles during again when peace was restored.
the day. This camping place was about half Brother Barney, after being a resident of
a mile below the ferrying place, or the place Grass Valley, Sevier County, Utah, for three
where the pioneer brethren of the advance years, went to Arizona on foot, staying there
company had camped. one year. His last home was in Colorado,
Here the pioneers found good feed for their where his widow and children still lived in
cattle. This was also the place where the Ore- 1897.
gon Road crossed the Platte, being 124 miles
70
Day 70 • Sunday, June 13
The morning was fine in the pioneer camp
on the Platte. The Missouri emigrants, whom
the pioneers had ferried over the previous
day, pursued their journey in the morning.
They were followed a few hours later by the
company of Missourians who had crossed the
river 11 miles below the ferry.
At 9 a.m. the brethren assembled in the
circle for prayer and after they had spent
some time bearing testimony, Elder Heber C.
Kimball addressed them, exhorting them to
be watchful and humble, to remember their
covenants and, above all things, to avoid
everything that would lead to division, etc.
He made use of the similitude of the potter
and the clay to show that every man had the
privilege of being exalted to honor and glory
if he did not mar in the hands of the potter,
but would continue passive, etc. His remarks
were very touching and appropriate to the
circumstances surrounding the camp.
President Young followed next, speaking
on the “Liberty of the Gospel,” showing that
it guaranteed liberty to every man, which
would tend to his salvation and increase, but
did not give any one liberty to break the laws
of God or to wander off to the mountains and
get lost, nor to kill the works of God’s hands,
waste it, etc. President Young also said there
was a great difference between the camps of
the pioneers and the Missouri companies that
were going the same road as the pioneers, or
at least a part of the way. They would curse
and swear, rip and tear, as they were trying
to rip up the earth, but although they did not
want the saints to have a place on earth, the
earth would soon swallow them up and they
would go to the land of forgetfulness, while
the saints, if faithful, would ultimately, though
they might suffer some privations in mortali-
ty, inherit the earth and increase in dominion
and power.
Orson Pratt followed President Young and
spoke on the subject of avoiding all excesses
of folly of every description, inasmuch as it
disqualified them for the society of just men
and angels.
After the public meeting was dismissed
the Twelve, the colonels, the captains, etc.,
of the camp met at President Young’s wagon
to consult upon what measures to adopt to
get across the river. It was finally agreed to
send men immediately to the mountains
with a wagon and team for every two teams
in the camp to get poles with which to lash
two or four wagons abreast to keep them
from turning over and float them across the
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
river with boats and ropes.
Consequently a company
of horsemen started for
the mountains at 12:30
p.m. with teams to get the
poles, while Howard Egan,
together with five or six
other men, crossed the river
to build a raft.
After the teams had start-
ed for the mountains for
timber with which to con-
struct their rafts President
Young, Orson Pratt, George
A. Smith, Ezra T. Benson,
Lorenzo D. Young, and Ed-
mund Ellsworth rowed the
“Revenue Cutter” across the
river to ascertain the depth
of the same. The water was
four to six feet deep. Luke
S. Johnson and James Case
forded the river in other
places on horseback. The
brethren towed a yoke of
oxen over the river for the
Missouri emigrants.
The brethren who were Zebedee Coltrin
sent out into the mountains Dec. 7, 1804, Ovid, New York — July 20, 1887,
were making preparations Spanish Fork, Utah
to cross the river on the
morrow. In the evening
the flour, meat and bacon, which had been them could form no idea of the vast num-
received from the Missourians for ferrying ber of crickets in this region. The ground at
them over the river, was distributed among the ferrying place was almost covered with
the brethren in camp equally. It amounted to crickets. Phineas H. Young came in from the
five and one-half pounds of flour, two pounds mountains having killed a deer.
of meat and a small piece of bacon to each Zebedee Coltrin of the pioneer company,
member of the camp. It looked as much of a whose portrait appears today, was born Sep-
miracle to see the flour and meat bags fo the tember 7, 1804, in Ovid, Seneca County, New
pioneers replenished in the midst of the Black York, and died in Spanish Fork, July 20, 1987.
Hills as it did to have the children of Israel He was in the fifth ten, of which Stephen H.
fed with manna in the wilderness of the Sinai. Goddard was captain, and arrived in Salt Lake
Elder Woodruff writes: “The Lord has truly Valley with the main company on July 22.
been with us during this journey; we have Other of the pioneers have been accounted
had peace and union in our midst; our horses for, but no photographs of them are obtain-
and cattle have been wonderfully preserved able. Such are as follows:
from death and accident on the way, and our John Dixon, who was born July 26, 1818, in
wagons from breaking down. Great good will Cumberland, England, was killed by Indians
grow out of this mission if we are faithful in near Parley’s Park, Summit County, August
keeping the commandments of God.” 17, 1853.
The day had been warm and pleasant, more John Wheeler, who was born February 3,
like a summer day than any the camp had 1802, in Kean County, South Carolina, went to
had yet on their journey. The ground seemed California at an early day and was there lost to
to be alive with large crickets and it was said the knowledge of his former friends.
that the bears fed on them and picked them
up very fast. A person who had never seen
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 71 • Monday, June 14
The morning was cloudy and cool in the
pioneer camp. At 4 a.m. the first division of
the pioneers commenced ferrying their goods
over the Platte River in the “Revenue Cutter”
and some time afterward commenced taking
the wagons across on the light rafts made of
poles the previous day. Thai proved to be very
slow work.
The second division also began to take their
goods over on a raft, but the current was so
strong that they only took two loads over in it
and then quit. This division then stretched a
rope across the river from shore to shore, and,
lashing two wagons fast together to keep them
from rolling over, they dragged them over by
the rope, letting them drift with the current
to prevent the rope from breaking. But when
the wagons struck on the sand on the opposite
bank of the river, the upper one keeled over,
and finally rolled over the other one, breaking
the bows considerably and losing iron, etc., in
the wagons valued at $30, belonging to John
Pack.The brethren nest lashed four wagons
together abreast and dragged them over the
same way. All got over without accident, ex-
cept the upper one, which turned on its side,
but it was righted again without damage. They
next tried one wagon alone, but as soon as it
got into the current it rolled over and over,
breaking the bows pretty badly.
The plan of taking one wagon at a time on a
raft, proved to be the safest way, no accidents
having occurred with it, and the wagons got
over dry, but it was a very slow process, and it
was plain that it would take three for four days
to get all the wagons across the river that way.
The wind blew strong from the southwest,
which was much to the disadvantage of the
company.
At 3:30 p.m. a very heavy thunderstorm oc-
curred. The rain was also heavy, accompanied
by hail, and the wind blew as strong as any the
pioneers had experienced. The storm broke
upon the camp just as Wilfrod Woodruff’s ten
had completed the taking over of the two wag-
ons belonging to Willard Richards. Wilford
Woodruff sprang into his carriage and trident
everything down tight, but the rain, wind and
hail beat upon him so heavily that he had to
use most of his strength to hold the wagon
cover on. Both rain and hail went inside his
carriage until his bed and other things were
nearly drenched. The storm lasted only seven
minutes, but was very severe and most of
the wagons and goods of the pioneers were
soaked more or less.
During the storm their horses ran two or
71
three miles away from camp,
but they were secured without
much trouble after the storm.
It took until nearly 10 o’clock at
night to get the loading back into
the wagons. The river had been
rising all day and rose very fast
after the storm.
The men worked very hard,
much of the time being in the
water and sometimes up to
their armpits, which was very
fatiguing indeed. When the
work was finished at night, the
first division had succeeded
in getting 11 wagons over, and
the second division 12, making
23 wagons in all after a very
hard day’s labor. There was no
difficulty in getting the freight
over, for one man could carry it
in the “Cutter” faster than all the
rest of the camp could get the
wagons over.
Howard Egan gives the
following account of the ferrying
that day:
“We commenced ferrying our
wagons and goods over the river,
trying various methods. Not
having poles or rope enough to George Pierce Billings
lash them, we thought we would
July 25, 1827, Kirtland, Ohio
try one wagon alone and some
of the brethren thought that if
— Dec. 2, 1896, Manti, Utah
some person would get in the
wagon and ride on the upper side it would mile above where we load the wagons.”
prevent it from turning over. I volunteered George Pierce Billings, whose portrait
to go across in it. Soon after we pushed off, is published in today’s recital, was born in
Brother Gibbons jumped into the river and Geauga County, Ohio, July 25, 1827. He went
caught hold of the end of the wagon. When with his parents to Kirtland when four years
we got out about the middle of the stream, the old, and afterward to Nauvoo, and on west
wagon began to fill with water and rolled from with the Mormons in 1846. He was enlisted in
one side to the other and then turned over on the Mormon Battalion, but accidentally got his
the side. I got on the upper side and hung on foot cut so that he could not go. He drove one
for a short time, when it rolled over leaving of Heber C. Kimball’s wagons in the pioneer
me off. I saw that I was in danger of being company, and arrived in Salt Lake Valley the
caught in the wheels or the bows, and I swam day before he was 20 years old. He went back
off, but one of the wheels struck my leg and to the Missouri River and brought on his
bruised it some. I struck out for the shore with parents; later he went to California, where
my cap in one hand. The wagons rolled over a he spent two years, and then returned to the
number of times and was hauled to shore. It mountains. Still later he assisted in the settle-
received no damage except that the bows were ment of Carson Valley, Nevada. On his return
broken. We then thought it the safest way to from Carson he went back to Manti, where
take the wagons over on a raft, notwithstand- he made his home while he lived. He acted as
ing it was very slow and would take three or sheriff of Sanpete County for many years, and
four days. The current and the wind being was in every respect a pioneer. He died at his
against us, we had to tow our raft about one home, December 2, 1896, in Manti.
72
Day 72 • Tuesday, June 15
The morning was fine, but very windy, in
the pioneer camp. Orson Pratt, by his obser-
vations, determined the latitude of the Platte
ferry to be 42 degrees 50 minutes 18 seconds
and 124 miles from Laramie.
The brethren continued to ferry wagons
across the river on the raft and they also built
two other rafts, but the high wind rendered
the crossing very difficult and slow.
In the afternoon the brethren commenced
driving over some of the horses and cattle
belonging to Brother Crow’s company, but
as they neglected to take the lariats off the ani-
mals, one of Brother Crow’s horses was soon
seen to be drowning. Some of the men imme-
diately went to it with the skiff and dragged
it to shore, but did not succeed in bringing it
back to life. The rest of the horses all got over
safely, as did the cattle also.
The current of the river was very strong
and the wind high, and with the water rising it
was dangerous to swim the cattle over. During
the day it was concluded to leave several of
the brethren at the ferry to make a boat and
keep a ferry until the next companies of saints
should show up. By that means they would
probably make enough to supply a large com-
pany with provisions. The pioneers learned
from the Missourains that a large company of
emigrants bound for the west was coming up
on the north side of the Platte above Grand
Island.
The day continued windy and it seemed
somewhat inclined to storm, but the company
succeeded in getting nearly 20 wagons over
the river before night. Another company of
Missourians arrived at the ferry from the east
and camped near the pioneers.
Elder Kimball gave instructions to some of
the brethren to have a wagon and six mules in
readiness to start early in the morning to look
for a log with which to make a canoe.
Thomas Bullock, whose portrait is herewith
produced, was born in Leek, Staffordshire,
England, December 23, 1816. He commenced
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
his career as clerk with John
Cruso, a solicitor, in Leek, on
March 15, 1830, and contin-
ued in that gentleman’s em-
ployment for over eight years.
He finally left him for the more
remunerative employment
of exciseman, and in that
position worked in Hereford,
Dundalk, Anglesea and Stour-
bridge districts until he left
England for the United States.
Joining The Church of Jesus
Christ of Latter-day Saints in
Leek on November 20, 1841,
he was ordained an elder
and in a short time he raised
up a branch of the Church of
43 members in Brierley Hill,
Staffordshire. He left England
in the ship Yorkshire on March
8, 1843, having charge of a
company of emigrating saints,
and personally paying for the
immigration of several poor
families. In October of the Thomas Bullock
same year he was employed as
a clerk in the office of Joseph Dec. 23, 1816, Leek, Staffordshire, England
Smith, which position he occu- — Feb. 10, 1885, Coalville, Utah
pied until June 27, 1844.
He spent the winter of 1846-1847 at Winter ards until the death of that gentleman, when
Quarters, where one of his children died he was appointed to the same office under
through exposure. Leaving that place in com- Historian George A. Smith.
pany with President Young and the pioneers In 1865 he was again elected chief clerk of
in April, 1847, he traveled with them until the house of representatives and by that body
their arrival in Salt Lake Valley. He traveled appointed notary public for Summit County.
with President Young the same year to Winter When he moved to Wanship on December 3,
Quarters, but returned with the presidency to 1868, he was elected clerk of the probate court
the mountains in 1848. In September of that and county court and recorder for Summit
year he was elected to the office of recorder of County, which position he held for several
Salt Lake County and held that position until years. He moved from Wanship to Coalville in
he was called to go to England on a mission in 1868, where he remained until his death on
1856. He held the position of chief clerk of the February 10, 1885. He was buried in the Salt
house of representatives for several sessions, Lake City Cemetery on February 14, 1885.
was assistant clerk to Historian Willard Rich-
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 73 • Wednesday, June 16
The morning was fine in the pioneer camp
on the Platte River, but there was a strong
west wind blowing.
In the morning President Young sent a
four-horse team to get timber to make a good
raft in addition to the timber already on hand.
This team returned to camp with the timber
needed about 10 a.m. President Young then
stripped himself and went to work with all
his strength, assisted by Willard Richard and
other brethren, and made a first rate raft of
white pine and white cottonwood.
President Young also sent two six-horse
teams down the river about three miles after
timber to make two canoes, on which they
intended to build a boat to be used at the ferry
until the next company of saints should arrive
from the east. About 20 men went down the
river in this company; they dug out two large
canoes to cover over to make a ferry boat
out of, so they might be able to ferry over the
large company of emigrants bound for Oregon
which had arrived, and other companies
which were now on their way.
Presiden Young thought it wise to leave a
number of the brethren on the river to keep a
ferry until the companies of saints should ar-
rive. These ferrymen were to charge $1.50 per
ferrying over a wagon, and should take their
pay in flour, beans, cows, etc.; flour at $2.50
per hundred and cows at $10 each. Of the 20
men who went on this business most of them
had their wagons across the river.
Brother Zebedee Coltrin’s wagon and John
S. Gleason’s mules, and also a pair of mules
belonging to Brother Flake, driven by his
colored man, Green Flake, and a pair driven
by George P. Billings, were among the outfits
placed at the disposal of the men who went
after timber for the boat.
The brethren who went down the river in
the morning, returned in the evening, a while
before dark, and brought into camp two good
canoes, 25 feet long, nearly finished and ready
to be put together.
Another company was sent about half a
mile up the river in the morning to make slabs
or puncheons to lay on the canoes.
A Missouri company, traveling with 10 wag-
ons, 10 horses, and 33 yoke of oxen, passed
up the south side of the river. They offered to
give the pioneers $1.50 for each wagon ferried
over and $5 extra, if they were ferried over
that night. There was another company of
emigrants encamped a short distance below
the pioneer camp, and still another one five
miles further below, who wished the pioneers
to ferry them over the river.
Three men who had crossed the river about
five miles below arrived in the pioneer camp
and expressed themselves to the effect that if
73
they had known of the pioneer ferry
they would have had their 24 wag-
ons crossed over by the pioneers.
By this time it was fully decided
to leave a company of brethren at
this ferry to ferry over the Missouri
companies for $1.50 a load until the
next company of saints should ar-
rive. This was the object for which
the new boat was being built. The
men would thus earn a good stock
of provisions for themselves and be
prepared to set the brethren of the
next company over without delay;
they would also be able to preserve
the boat for the use of the compa-
nies of saints who would follow, and
it was the instructions of President
Young that when the brethren had
farried the emigrating saints over
the river, they should cache the
boat and come on with them to the
mountains.
The brethren resumed their
work of ferrying in the morning and
continued all day, but with great Stephen Kelsey
difficulty on account of the strong
wind which blew downstream. Dec. 23, 1830, Montville, Ohio
When they started to cross the river — May 22, 1900, Paris, Idaho
with Brother Goddard’s wagon, and
the wind was blowing strong, James Craig left Winter Quarters about the 14th of April,
and William Wardsworth were on the raft and comped on the Elkhorn River. The band
with poles; and when they got nearly half of pioneers were thoroughly organized into
way across, Brother Craig’s pole stuck in the companies and fully officered, I being one of
sand and threw him overboard. He swam Captain Markham’s fifty. I was also one of the
back to the shore, and in spite of Brother advance company, and reached Salt Lake Val-
Wardsworth’s exertions, the wind and current ley on the 22nd of July, 1847. After my arrival
carried the raft about two miles down the I labored in the canyon, made adobes, etc.,
river. It was finally landed with the help of the and worked with George A. Smith in building
“Revenue Cutter” and without accident. the first house in Salt Lake City.
The brethren worked three rafts during the “In the fall of 1847 I returned to Winter
day, two of which were worked by oars. The Quarters, and upon that trip endured many
oars proved to be far superior to poles in the hardships which were more severe than the
strong current. At the close of the day there pioneer trip going west. I returned again to
were still a number of wagons on the south Salt Lake in the year 1848, was called to settle
shore. Those which had been brought over in Bear Lake Valley, Idaho, in the year 1864,
could not be easily counted on account of and located in Paris that year.
their being scattered all along the banks of the “In crossing the plains many hardships
river for about a mile in length. were endured, but the memory of that trip is
Over his own signature, pioneer Stephen one of the pleasantest; there was a fraternal
Kelsey wrote to The Tribune in 1897 from his feeling, a unity of purpose and often, after a
home in Paris, Idaho, as follows: hard day’s tramp, could the sound of music
“I was born December 23, 1830, in Mont- be heard above the cry of the coyote, and
ville, Geauga County, Ohio, and in the year the leaders of that band by their self-sacri-
1842 left said state and settled in Illinois. In ficing disposition and faithful labors, have
1846 I moved from Nauvoo, Illinois, to Winter engrossed their names upon the tablets of
Quarters. In the spring of 1847, although memory that time itself cannot efface.”
at the time not a member of the church, I Stephen Kelsey died in Paris Idaho, May
volunteered to join the band of pioneers in 22, 1900.
their proposed march to the Rocky Mountains
under the leadership of Brigham Young. I
74
Day 74 • Thursday, June 17
The morning was fine but windy and cold
in the pioneer camp on the Platte. Mosquitoes
had been very troublesome during the past
night. They were more numerous here than at
any other place on the pioneer route.
Early in the morning the pioneers swam
some of their horses across the river. One
mule came near drowning from being entan-
gled in a strap, but the current carried him
ashore. Howard Egan states that it was impos-
sible to get some of the horses across, owing
to the strong wind and high current. However,
the ferrying was continued on the rafts by
some of the pioneers, while others went to
work to finish their ferry boat.
Soon after noon the pioneers finished their
ferrying for their own company by taking their
last wagon safely over, which was a matter of
rejoicing to all the camp. About 2:30 p.m. the
cannon was safely taken over. The brethren
suffered much while working in the water, as
it was very cold.
By this time two companies of the Missou-
rians had arrived at the ferry and made appli-
cation to be set over at $1.50 a load, and when
all the pioneers had been taken across, the
brethren commenced to cross over the Mis-
sourians. Some of these Missouri emigrants
reported to the pioneers that there were one
thousand wagons traveling westward between
Laramie and the ferry, and that their compa-
nies were arriving daily at the fording places.
When the contract was made with the first
company of Missourans to be taken across as
soon as the pioneers had finished crossing
over their own wagons, the second company
of Missourians offered to pay the pioneers
50¢ cents per man extra, if they would set
their company across first, making $5 over
the stated price for ferriage. It required 10 of
the pioneers to work at it. Colonel Rockwood
had made a contract to the above effect with
the first company and did not like to break
it. However, he received a hint that this was
Colonel Markham’s day for the use of the
boat, and consequently Colonel Markham had
a right to take the last offer, if he chose. He
took the hint and they went to work forthwith
at $1.50 a wagon in provisions at Missouri
prices and 50 cents extra per man in what
they preferred for themselves. The afternoon
and evening was very cold with a very strong
wind.
After President Young and Elder Kimball
had taken their wagons over, they being about
the last to cross the river, orders were given
for the camp to come together and form the
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
wagons in a circle near the ferry
on the north bank of the Platte.
It took until near dark before all
the wagons got into line.
This was the sixth day spent
by the pioneers at the ferry,
which Elder Woodruff remarks
was the longest hindrance he
had ever experienced at a ferry,
or the crossing of a river.
The brethren ran the ferry
boats all night to cross the
Missourians, but only got a few
wagons over. The new raft was
in operation all day and worked
well.
Erastus Snow, in giving an
account of the pioneers crossing
the Platte River at the ferry
(afterward known at the upper
ferry on the Platte), writes:
“Monday, Tuesday, Wednes-
day and Thursday were spent
in crossing the river, which
was very high and continually
rising; the current was very James W. Stewart
rapid and, added to this, the
wind blew strongly down the May 19, 1825, Fayette County, Alabama
stream, with but little cessation — March 22, 1913, Cokeville, Wyoming
during the four days. We swam
our horses and cattle, crossed our loads on were then towed up with oxen. In this way the
the skiff (“revenue cutter”) and at first tried last of our wagons passed over with part of
to plan of floating our wagons by extending their loading.
ropes down the river and attaching them to “Meantime a set of hands was busy prepar-
the end of the tongue, but the current would ing two canoes, two and a half feet in diameter
roll them over, as if they were nothing but and 23 feet long, which, when coupled about
logs, wheels and bows appearing alternately five feet apart with cross timber covered with
upon the surface of the water; two wagons puncheons and manned with oars, made
lashed together by means of poles laid under a boat with which three men could cross a
them shared the same fate, first one and then wagon with its load.”
the other appeared uppermost; when they James W. Steward, one of the pioneers who
struck the bottom, or more shallow water, lived in Fort Bridger, wrote to The Tribune in
broken bows and reaches were the result. The 1897 as follows:
plan was abandoned as being too dangerous. “I was one of that little band of pioneers
“The next plan was to try small rafts, but that crossed the plains in 1847, and landed
the difficulty of poling a raft in such deep and in Salt Lake Valley on the 22nd of July. It was
swift water was such that the wind, aiding the a dreary place then. I helped make the first
current, would not infrequently sweep them irrigating dam on City Creek. In the winter of
down from one to two miles before it would 1847 it was hard picking for us, being without
be possible to make the other shore, though bread and a thousand miles to go for flour,
the river was not more than forty or fifty rodes so we lived on cowhides at times, and in the
wide. In attempting to drag rafts across the spring sego roots.”
current with ropes, the current would draw Mr. Stewart was born May 19, 1825, in
them under. Fayette County, Alabama, and died March 22,
“The plan that succeeded best was two rafts 1913, in Cokeville, Wyoming.
constructed with oars well manned, which
would effect a landing in about half a mile and
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 75 • Friday, June 18
The morning was very cold and windy
in the pioneer camp on the Platte. It was
concluded not to start that day, but to wait
and assist in finishing the new boat, and also
to take on the provisions which would be
realized from these two Missouri companies
that were being ferried across the river. Some
of the brethren continued working at the new
boat, while others continued ferrying the
Missiorians’ wagons over the river.
After the pioneers had ferried the tow
Missouri companies across the river, Brothers
Albert P. Rockwood and Thomas Bullock went
out to receive the pay from the two camps,
and while Brother Rockwood weighed and
received the provisions, Brother Bullock kept
the account.
Campatian Ashworth, in charge of one of
the companies, invited Albert P. Rockwood
and Thomas Bullock to breakfast with him
on bacon, warm bread and light fried biscuits
and dood coffee with sugar and milk. “Eating
a good breakfast from a woman’s cooking,”
writes Elder Bullock, “is a remembrance of
past times and renews the desire for such
times to come again.”
After feasting with Captain Ashworth,
Elders Rockwood and Bullock crossed the
river to receive the pay from Captain Kerl’s
company. The brethren received from Captain
Kerl a cow and provisions in payment for
the ferrying. Enough provisions had been
received for ferrying to last the pioneer camp
about 23 days. This was considered a great
blessing, for which they thanked the Lord. At
the rate at which provisions sold at Fort Lara-
mie, the brethren had earned in about a week
of ferrying over the Missourians provisions
worth $400.
Howard Egan records that Brother Albert
P. Rockwood divided some of the provisions
which were realized for ferrying among some
of the tens. Brother Kimball let the brethren at
the ferry have a coil of rope worth about $15,
for which he received in party payment 263
pounds of flour, 100 pounds of meal and 27
pounds of soap.
At 1:45 p.m. Brother Bullock assisted in
floating the new raft, which behaved well in
crossing the river. The brethren made five
wharves or landing places at different points,
besides crossing teams.
A council was held in the afternoon (the
weather being warm and pleasant), at which
it was resolved to leave nine men to tend to
the ferry and cross other Missouri compa-
nies over, and also the saints who should
follow the pioneers later in the season. The
names of those who were appointed to tarry
were read over, as follows: Thomas Grover,
John S. Higbee, Luke S. Johnson, Appleton
M. Harmon, Edmund Ellsworth, Francis M.
Pomeroy, William Empey, James Davenport,
and Benjamin F. Stewart. Thomas Grover was
75
appointed captain. The president
then referred to Brother Glines, who
desired to stay at the ferry, but the
president said he had no counsel for
him to tarry, although he might do as
he had a mind to. Some explanations
were given by Glines, but the unani-
mous feeling of the brethren was to
have him go on.
A great quantity of fish abounded
in a stream or creek which ran into
the Platte on the right bank of about
1½ miles below the ferry, and sever-
al of the brethren went there to fish.
One man with a hook caught fifty
in a short time. They would average
about one bound each, the chief
part of them resembling a herring in
appearance.
The men who had been selected
to stop at the ferry met again in the
evening to receive further instruc-
tions. Brother Eric Glines, who
had been advised to go on with the
company, asked permission from
President Young to stay at the ferry,
but as he did not manifest a good
spirit, President Young reproved
Daniel Spencer
him, and then delivered a short July 20, 1794, West Stockridge, Massachusetts
lecture which was interesting and — Dec. 8, 1868, Salt Lake City
instructive, in which he said that
when he gave a man counsel, he did
not want him to reject such counsel, or bring trains began to gather on the Elkhorn about
arguments against it trying to alter it. June 12, and by the 15th, 300 wagons were
During the day another Missouri company collected. The first company organized was
arrived at the ferry. Daniel Spencer’s one hundred, which moved
Orson Pratt writes: “We tarried at this place off the grounds 87 years ago today, June 18,
(the Platte ferry) until the morning of the 1847. His was therefore the second company
19th, during which time we made two large on the road to the Great Basin. Under Captain
cottonwood canoes, and, placing them parallel Spencer as captain of fifty wagons, were Ira
to each other a few feet apart, firmly pinned Eldredge and Peregrine Sessions, and the
with cross pieces and cross slabs running company was further divided into companies
lengthways of the canoes, and having attached of tens, as instructed by Brigham Young.
a rudder and oars with a little ironwork, we The other captains of hundreds who were
had a boat of sufficient strength to carry over nearly ready to start were Edward Hunter,
the loaded wagons of the emigrants.” Jedediah M. Grant, and Abraham O. Smoot.
From the mean of four observations taken The whole of this emigration traveled un-
on four successive days with a thermometer der the direction of competent captains, and
and a barometer, the height of the Platte ferry the only two apostles with the emigrants were
above sea level was found to be 4,858 feet. Parley P. Pratt and John Taylor.
While the pioneers were camped on the Daniel Spenser was a noted man in the
Plate preparing for their final march to the early history of Utah. For a long time he acted
valley of the Great Salt Lake, other companies as president of the Salt Lake Stake, served
for the subsequent emigrations to the land to as roadmaster, was a member of the board
be located by the pioneers were being formed of regents of the University of Deseret, and a
on the Elkhorn, west of Winter Quarters. This member of the territorial legislature. One of
emigration had all been previously planned his old homesteads was the group of adobe
by Brigham Young, his idea being to personal- buildings later used as superintendent’s office
ly locate the “promised land,” which was to be and shops of the Oregon Short Line. Another
settled by those following, while he and some home was in the block opposite the Knutsford
others would return to Winter Quarters and Hotel, a part of the building still standing in
prepare to again make the trip to Utah with 1897. It was at this home that Daniel Spencer
their families. died December 8, 1868.
The wagons that made up the emigrant
76
Day 76 • Saturday, June 19
The morning was fine but cool in the
pioneer camp at the Platte ferry. At 7:30 a.m.
the pioneers resumed their journey in good
health and spirits, starting for the Sweetwater
country. Their teams were in very good condi-
tion, having been fed on good and rich grass.
It was remarked by several that their stock
had fattened so much while stopping at the
ferry that their owners hardly knew them.
The 10 men before mentioned, being left
at the ferry to wait for the other companies,
reduced the number of souls in the pioneer
company to 151.
Before breaking camp in the morning
President Young and Willard Richards signed
copies of instructions which were given to
Thomas Grover and his company (consisting
of nine ferry men and one blacksmith), who
were going to stay. All 10 signed these instruc-
tions. These 10 men who were left in charge of
the ferry were instructed to come on with the
next company of saints, who were expected
in a month or six weeks. In the meantime,
they were to take every precaution to protect
themselves, their horses and their substance
from Indian aggression.
In resuming the journey from the ferry,
the pioneers first traveled six miles in nearly
a westerly direction over several bluffs of
considerable height. The road then turned
suddenly to the south, leading up a very high
bluff which measured upward of a mile from
the foot to the summit. The descent on the
south side was rough, crooked and uneven.
At 1 p.m. the company halted for noon
on a spot where the grass was good, about a
quarter of a mile from a small spring, which
was the first water the pioneers had come
to since leaving the ferry, 11¼ miles distant.
There was no timber nearer than the bluffs,
which were probably two miles away. The
so-called Red Buttes were nearly opposite
to this camping place, toward the southeast;
they appeared as two high bluffs of red earth
and sand, presenting a very triangular, yet
interesting appearance.
After stopping for about an hour to water
their animals, the pioneers went to the spring,
which they found to be a small stream of
water rising out of the quicksands.
After watering the teams at the lake, the
journey continued at 2:50 p.m., bearing near
a southwest course over rolling prairie. At a
distance of eight miles from the spring there
was a steep descent from the bluff, and at the
foot there was a high ridge of sharp-pointed
rocks running parallel with the road for nearly
a quarter of a mile, leaving only sufficient
space for wagons to pass.
At 7:40 p.m. the pioneers formed their
encampment in a small spot surrounded by
high bluffs, having traveled that afternoon
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
10¼ miles and during the day 21½
miles, which was the longest dis-
tance they had traveled in one day
since leaving Winter Quarters.
The place of encampment was
considered by all to be the worst
camping ground the pioneers had
occupied on their journey, but they
were obliged to take it, for there had
been neither wood, grass, nor water
since leaving the spring. The land
in this locality was perfectly sandy
and barren, and nothing grew but
wild sage and a small prickly shrub.
Near the camping place there was
some grass for teams, but no wood,
so the brethren had to make use of
the wild sage and buffalo chips to
do their cooking.
There were two small streams
of water near the camp; one of
these containing pretty good water
appeared to come from the north-
west. In the other coming from the
southwest, the water was so bad
that the cattle would not drink it, Jedediah M. Grant
it being strong with salt or other
saleratus, and smelled extremely Feb. 21, 1816, Windsor, New York
filthy. Its banks were so perfectly — Dec. 1, 1856, Salt Lake City
soft that a horse or ox could not go
down to drink without sinking immediately Great Basin were hard at work preparing and
nearly overhead in thick, filthy mud; it was organizing for the trip. It was told in yester-
the most horrid, swampy, stinking place, and day’s recital how the camp was divided and
it was found necessary to keep out a guard to officered.
prevent the cattle from getting into it. Orders Jedediah M. Grant was captain of one hun-
were given to drive the animals down a little dred, and his company was the third hundred
east, where feed was pretty good and not so to start westward in this emigration. It was 87
dangerous. The mosquitoes were very bad years ago today (June 19, 1847) that Captain
at this place, which added to the loathsome, Grant’s company moved off the grounds. It
solitary scenery around. traveled during the day 15 miles and camped
Porter Rockwell returned from hunting at night in sight of Daniel Spencer’s hundred.
soon after the pioneers had camped and Like the other companies, those in Jedediah
reported that he had killed a fat buffalo about M. Grand’s hundred suffered many hardships
two miles off. A team was sent to fetch the on the plains, and several deaths were record-
meat, but did not return until long after dark. ed. Among those were the wife and child of
Myers killed two buffalo, but took only the Mr. Grant. The child died and was buried on
tails and tongues and left the rest to rot on the the plains, but Mrs. Grand died so near to Salt
ground. John Norton and Andy Gibbons left Lake Valley that by forced drives, night and
the camp at the springs and went out to hunt. day, her remains were brought through and
Norton returned and reported that he had interred in the land to which for months back
killed a buffalo and left it back not far from all her hopes and prayers had been directed.
the spring. Jedediah M. Grant was born in Windsor,
President Young suggested that this place Broome County, New York, February 21, 1816.
might properly be called “Hell Gate.” All the In addition to leading the third hundred of
water tasted as though it ran through a bed of emigrants in 1847 to Utah, he became noted
saltpeter and sulfur. It was nauseous in the in the early history of Utah Territory and Salt
extreme. The soil in the valley and marshes Lake City. He was brigadier general of the first
was apparently one-half of it composed of a Utah militia, and the first mayor of Salt Lake
saline efflorescence, or salty substance, of City. He died December 1, 1856, in Salt Lake
which that part of the country abounds. City, being still quite a young man.
Returning again to the Elkhorn, the
emigrants who were to follow the trail to the
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 77 • Sunday, June 20
The morning was fine in the pioneer
camp in the desert at a place now known as
Poison Springs, but the mosquitoes were very
troublesome. Two more oxen were found
almost buried in mud and all hands appeared
anxious to leave the place. The camping place
was so distasteful to the pioneers that rules
were laid aside and a 20 mile march was made
on Sunday, June 20th.
The country through which the train was
passing was the most barren the party had yet
traversed. So, before breakfast, or at a quarter
past 5 o’clock a.m. they left this “encamp-
ment of death-poisoned waters, salt marshes,
etc.,” and moved out to find a better camping
ground.
After traveling 3¼ miles the company halt-
ed for breakfast at 7 a.m. beside a small, clear
stream of spring water, about a foot side—suf-
ficient for camping purposes. The feed on the
banks of this creek was good and plentiful,
but there was no wood.
About 10 a.m. the camp again moved
forward on their journey, President Young
and Elder Kimball going ahead. After traveling
three miles, they arrived at the Willow Spring
at 11:20 a.m. and halted a little while to get
water. This spring was about two feet wide
and the water 10 inches deep, perfectly clear,
cold as ice and very good tasting. A willow
grove, extending for some distance above and
below it, answered very well for fuel purposes.
The grass being good and plentiful, it was a
most lovely camping spot, though the land
where the stream ran below the spring was
soft, and there was some danger of the cattle
miring in it.
At 2:45 p.m. the pioneers halted to feed in
a ravine, where there was plenty of grass and
a good stream of water, about 300 yards south
from the road, but destitute of wood. The
road, during this forenoon led over a barren,
sandy country, there being no grass, only in
the spots above mentioned.
At 5 o’clock the pioneers again proceed-
ed on their journey, the president’s wagon
going first; all the others keeping their places.
William Clayton here remarks that it was the
order of the pioneers in traveling for each
company of 10 to go forward in their turn, the
first 10 in the first division taking the lead
one day, and then on the second day fall in
the rear, the second 10 then taking the lead,
and thus continue until each company of 10
in the first division had taken the lead one
day apiece. Then the first division should fall
in the rear of the second division which also
began by companies of 10 taking the lead
of the road as stated, and when each 10 had
thus had their day, the second division should
again fall in the rear of the first. Thus every
man would have his equal privilege of leading.
After traveling two and one-half miles that
77
afternoon the pioneers descend-
ed to the bottom land again and
saw a small stream a little to
the left of the road, where there
was plenty of grass; one and
three-quarters miles farther they
crossed a creek of tolerably clear
water about six feet wide and
one foot deep, with sufficient wa-
ter to carry a flour mill. This was
a tributary of the Sweetwater.
After traveling seven miles
in the afternoon, the pioneers
turned off the road to the left,
and at 3:20 p.m. formed their
encampment for the night on a
ridge near the last mentioned
creek, where there was good
feed. They had traveled that
afternoon seven and one-quar-
ter miles and during the day 20
miles.
In company with George
A. Smith, Wilford Woodruff
proceeded to the head of Willow
Springs, where he found a doctor
belonging to a Missouri com-
Red Buttes on the Laramie Plains
pany, who had been doctoring (From a wood engraving in
a sick family. Brother Smith the London Art Journal)
stopped with that doctor to wait
for the pioneer wagons to come
up and Wilford Woodruff traveled on alone. that Elder Woodruff had left 12 miles back
After traveling several miles, John Brown and camped after traveling during the day 20
overtook him and the two rode together over a miles, while Elder Woodruff traveled 30 miles.
sandy, barren sage country until they reached The brethren in the camp were alarmed
a creek containing good water and some small about Elder Woodruff’s absence, fearing that
fish, about ten miles west of Willow Springs. he had been lost or had gotten into trouble
There they turned out their horses to bait and with the Indians. They blew their bugle and
tarried until 4 o’clock watching for the pioneer watched for Elder Woodruff until midnight,
company to come into sight. and finally fired their cannon, while he was
While waiting, they saw two horsemen camped with the Missorians, ten miles from
approaching, and so the brethren waved a them, not thinking that he was giving them
small flag for them to some forward. They any trouble.
turned out to be two hunters, Captain Smith Back a few miles from the Saturday night
and another man from the Missouri company, camp arose the Red Buttes in all their fantas-
carrying buffalo meat to their camp. Captain tic shapes. During the march of Sunday, while
Smith, who was the leader of the Missouri the pioneers crossed a high ridge, they looked
company, invited the two brethren to go with back and the Red Buttes appeared to better
them to their camp and stay with them during advantage than before, and were the chief
the night. This invitation was accepted by the feature of the landscape.
brethren, who then accompanied Mr. Smith The spot where the pioneer company
to the camp of the Missouri company near stopped for breakfast was seen by those who
Independence Rock. were riding ahead the night before, and would
President Woodruff writes: “I found a great have been made the camping place, only six
difference between the Missouri emigrant men disguised as Indians had been guarding
companies and our own. For while their men, the spot, and from their suspicious manner of
women, and children were all cursing, swear- acting and the fact that they joined the Mis-
ing, quarreling, scolding, and finding fault souri companies, it was decided that the Mis-
with each other and other companies, there sourians were up to some tricks to cut off the
was nothing of the kind allowed or practiced Mormons from the best camping places, so it
in our camp.” was decided by Brigham Young to push on a
Referring to the pioneer camp, Elder little faster and crowd the other emigrants so
Woodruff said that they traveled to the creek that no further trouble could result.
78
Day 78 • Monday, June 21
The morning was very fine and warm in the
pioneer camp. From the camp could be seen a
huge pile of rocks to the southwest a few miles
distant, which proved to be Independence
Rock, and after breakfast Willaim Clayton
went to view it and found that it consisted of
a vast pile of rocks extending from south to
north about 500 feet and measured 100 feet
in width. The rockets were large and seemed
to be piled on one another with the edges up.
There was no loose earth on the ridge, but
a little drift sand in which current and rose
bushes were growing.
At 8:35 a.m. the pioneers proceeded on-
ward. After traveling 3¼ miles, the arrived at a
bed of saleratus, which measured one-quarter
mile across and on which were several lakes
of salt water. The water in these lakes was not
very salty, but brackish and tasted sickly.
At 12 o’clock the pioneers arrived on the
left bank of the Sweetwater, having traveled
7½ miles that forenoon, over a sandy over a
sandy road destitute of wood, water, or grass.
Here they made their noon halt at latitude 42
degrees 30 minutes 16 seconds, about 1 1.2
miles below Independence Rock. The distance
from the upper ferry of the Platte River to this
place was 49 miles by the roadometer.
The Sweetwater at this place was about sev-
en or eight rods wide and over three feet deep
at the ford; in some places it was still deeper.
The current was very swift, and the water, al-
though a little muddy, had a pleasant taste. On
the banks of the river there was plenty of good
grass, but no wood. Erastus Snow describes
the river as a beautiful stream flowing rapidly
through a little bottom and forming the most
numerous and curious crooks he had ever
seen.
After the pioneers had halted, Sister Harriet
Young made some bread, using the saleratus,
which after thus being utilized was pro-
nounced to be as good for raising bread and to
taste equal to the best she had ever used, and
it even required less of this than the common
saleratus. After making this discovery a num-
ber of the brethren went back during the noon
halt and filled their pails with it, calculating to
make use of it during the future journey.
Wilford Woodruff, who, with John Brown,
had stopped in one of the Missouri emigrants’
camps during the past night, joined the
pioneer camp on its arrival on the Sweetwater.
They examined the many names and lists
of names of trappers, traders, travelers, and
emigrants which are painted upon Indepen-
dence Rock. Nearly all the names were put on
with red, black, and yellow paint; some had
washed out and were defaced.
Wilford Woodruff writes: “After going
around and examining Independence Rock,
we staked our horses and mounted the rock.
I went forward and gained the highest point
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Independence Rock on the Sweetwater River
(After a wood engraving in the Historical Record)
at the south end of the rock which contained
the names. I then went to the north end,
which is the highest part of the rock. Here is
an opening or cavern which would contain
30 or 40 persons, and a rock stands on the
highest peak of about three tons weight. We
got upon this rock and offered up our prayers
according to the order of the priesthood.
While we were attending to our prayers, the
Missourians were burying a woman a little
distance from the rock by the name of Rachel
Morgah, 25 years of age, she being the third
one of her family buried on the road. They
were supposed to be poisoned by cooking in
new copper vessels. I was the first Latter-day
Saint that ever went onto that rock or offered
up prayers according to the priesthood.”
After visiting Devil’s Gate some six miles
ahead, Elder Woodruff and Brown hurried
back to Independence Rock, as the pioneer
camp had come up. Elder Woodruff, continu-
ing his story, said: “I met Brother Young going
up to the rock and related to him my travels
since I left camp. I returned with President
Young, Willard Richards, and George A. Smith
and others, and we again ascended the rock
together and spent about an hour upon it. We
then returned to camp, mounted our horses
and rode to the Devil’s Gate, which is the
name of the channel through the mountain
through which the Sweetwater runs. It is five
miles from Independence Rock. A guide board
was put up at the gate, saying it was 175¼
miles from Fort Laramie and 50¼ miles from
the fort or ferry of the Platte River.”
About 3 p.m. the pioneers resumed their
journey and on arriving at Independence Rock
found it to be 1¼ miles from their noon halt.
They put up a guide board (opposite the rock)
with this inscription in it: “To Fort John 175¼
miles, Pioneers, June 21, 1847. W. R.” The
letters “W. R.” were branded on all the guide
boards at the request of Willard Richards, so
as to have a mark that the saints would know
and his brand was generally known by them.
After traveling on the banks of the Sweet-
water, one mile beyond the rock, they forded
the stream and found the water nearly three
feet deep in the channel. The pioneers then
continued a southwest course 4½ miles far-
ther, and arrive opposite Devil’s Gate, which
was a little to the west of the road, and a
quarter of a mile beyond this the road passed
between two high ridges of granite, leaving a
surface of about two rods of level ground each
side of the road, which bent to the west, and a
quarter of a mile farther the company passed
over a small creek two feet wide. The crossing
was bad, the creek being deep and muddy,
and it required caution on the part of the
teamsters to prevent accidents.
President Young, Elder Kimball and others
went to view the north side of Devil’s gate,
and, returning, reported that the “devils”
would not let them pass, or meaning that it
was impossible to go through the gateway
so-called.
The company proceeded on a little farther
and at 6:35 p.m. formed their night encamp-
ment on the bank of the Sweetwater, having
traveled that afternoon 7¾ miles, and during
the day 15¼ miles. The feed at this camping
place was good and plentiful and a little cedar
could be obtained at the foot of one of the
rocky ridges about a quarter of a mile back.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 79 • Tuesday, June 22
The morning was fine in the pioneer camp
on the Sweetwater. The sky was clear and the
weather mild.
Early in the morning Orson Pratt visited the
top of the Devil’s Gate Rock, having with him
his barometer and thermometer. He writes:
“By a barometrical measurement, the perpen-
dicular walls were about 400 feet high about
the river, which here cuts through a granite
rock, forming a chasm about 900 or 1,000
feet in length and 130 feet in breadth. The
rock upon the right bank runs back from the
river about a quarter of a mile and consists of
alternated and perpendicular strata of gray
granite and scoriated trap rock. The bed of
the river in this chasm is nearly choked up by
massive fragments of rock, which had been
precipitated from above. We traveled 19 miles
and halted for noon in latitude 42 degrees 28
minutes 25 seconds. The mountainous aspect
of the country is certainly very picturesque
and beautiful. The valley of the Sweetwater
varis in breadth from five to eight and ten
miles, abounded upon the north and south by
mountainous ridges, isolated hills and ragged
summits of massive granite, varying from
1,200 to 2,000 feet in height, those upon the
southern boundary being the highest, and are
partially covered with snow and well timbered
with pine, while those on the north are entire-
ly bare, with the exception of her and there an
isolated pine or cedar in the clefts or benches
of the hills. The river seems to hug the base of
the hills on the north, and although its general
course is to the east, its short and frequent
meanderings give it a serpentine appearance.”
At 7:20 a.m. the pioneers continued their
journey, President Young and Heber C.
Kimball traveling ahead, and about 200 yards
from where they had camps they crossed a
very crooked creek (Peet’s Creek), about six
feet wide, descending from the southwest.
After traveling three miles over heavy, sandy
roads, fringed with greasewood, they crossed
another creek (Cherry Creek), six feet wide,
and three and three-quarters miles farther
they crossed still another stream (Muddy
Creek), two feet wide. Somewhere near the
last creek Brother Lorenzo D. Young broke one
of his axle-trees, which detained him for some
time. One of the Missouri companies came up
soon after the accident and took his load into
one of their wagons, and by splicing a piece
of wood on his axle-tree he was able to follow
the camp.
At 11:55 a.m. the pioneers halted on the
banks of the Sweetwater, having traveled that
forenoon 10 miles over a very sandy, barren
79
land, there being
no grass except on
the creeks and river
banks.
During the noon
halt Elder Pratt took
an observation and
found the latitude
of the encampment
to be 42 degrees 28
minutes 25 seconds.
It was 10 miles
above Devil’s Gate
on the right bank
of the Sweetwater.
President Young
went back to meet
Lorenzo D. Young, Devil’s Gate, Sweetwater River
but soon found
he was coming on (After a sketch made it 1853 by Fred Piercy)
with the Missouri
company who were
approaching the
pioneers. The Missourians passed the camp gradually towards the west and descended a
before the pioneers could get started, and thus deep bluff over very heavy, sandy land.
got ahead of them. The day had been hot, with After traveling five and three-quarters
a little wind. miles they crossed a creek (Cottonwood
Some of the men of the Mossouri com- Creek), about six feet wide and three feet
pany informed the pioneers that one of the deep. The bank on each side was very steep
emigrants, namely Columbus Dustin, from and sandy, making it difficult for teams to
Morgan County, Illinois, had been drowned at get up. After passing this creek the pioneers
the Platte ferry, after the pioneers left, while traveled one and three-quarters miles farther
trying to swim his horse across the river, and and arrived on the banks of the Sweetwater
that his body had not been found when the and continued to travel near to it. At two and
Missourians left. The same ment also said one-quarter miles farther they crossed a creek
that two of their number had got somewhat three feet wide, but not much to be depended
alarmed at Independence Rock by the appear- on for water.
ance of a large grizzly bear. These two men At 7:50 p.m. they formed their night en-
had stopped to put their names on the rock campment at the foot of a very high, grav-
and the company left them, and when they elly bluff about 200 feet high, near the river
started to follow their company, one of them having traveled this afternoon 10¾ miles, and
traveling on foot and the other on horseback, during the day 20¾ miles, mostly over a sandy
they met this large grizzly bear on the road, road. This was a very good campground, there
whose feet made a track 10 inches long. being plenty of grass for the teams, which was
The camp continued the journey from considered well worth traveling a few miles
their noon encampment at 2:15 p.m., leaving extra. From this place the country seemed
the river and ascending a steep, long, sandy fortified by hills and mountains, especially on
hill. They descended it on the opposite side the west.
by three steep places and passed another Toward night mosquitoes were very trou-
saleratus lake, which covered an area of over blesome. Lewis Barney and Joseph Hancock
80 acres of land. Its banks were mostly white each killed an antelope during the day, but
with alkali or saleratus. there appeared to be no buffalo in the neigh-
The brethren graded the hill to the creek borhood.
(Copper Creek), five and three-quarters miles The company of Oregon emigrants with 10
from their noon start. They then crossed the teams or wagons were encamped that night
creek, and after passing the saleratus lake the about three miles ahead of the pioneers and
road ran south, passing between high sandy another company had stopped about the same
bluffs, after which it again turned around distance in their rear.
80
Day 80 • Wednesday, June 23
The morning was fine and warm in the
pioneer camp on the Sweetwater. At 7 o’clock
a.m. the company moved forward and im-
mediately afterward saw a grave on the left
of the road with a board stuck up with these
words written on it: “Matilda Crowley, B.
July 7, 1846.” Elder Clayton, upon reflecting
afterward, concluded that it probably was one
of the numerous emigrants who had started
with a view to spend the remainder of their
days in wild Oregon, but had fallen by the
way. The remains of many such had been left
by their friends far from the place of destina-
tion. The pioneers felt a renewed hope that
the Lord would kindly preserve the lives of
the saints to enjoy the society of the people of
God for many years to come, and when their
days were numbered on earth their remains
might be deposited at the feet of servants of
God rather than to be left far away in a wild
country.
After traveling 1½ miles the pioneers
crossed a very shallow stream of clear, cold
water about five feet wide. There was little
grass on its banks, but some cottonwood trees.
There being no name on the map for this
stream, it was named Bitter Cottonwood Creek
to designate it in future travel. After traveling
five miles beyond the last mentioned creek,
the pioneers again descended to the banks
of the Sweetwater, where there would be a
pretty good campground, although the grass
was not so plentiful as in many other places
on the banks of the river. They traveled until
11:05 a.m. on the river banks, then halted for
noon where the road and river separated a
little farther, and hence they would probably
not find grass again for a number of miles.
The land continued very sandy, there being
several small hills of fine-grained calcareous
sandstone very friable, making it hard on the
teams.
The day was very warm with a light breeze.
The pioneers traveled 8½ miles in a westerly
direction that morning. The latitude of the
noon camp was 42 degrees 31 minutes 20
seconds. It was 29¾ miles above Devil’s Gate.
At 1:10 p.m. the pioneers continued their
journey, the road bending for a short distance
to the south and then again to the west, and
after proceeding half a mile they found the
river turning between the granite ridges in a
northwest direction and seemed to have but a
narrow space to pass through in several plac-
es. The road at the same place turned south to
avoid the ridges for over a mile and then bent
to the southwest for some distance farther.
The road at the foot of these rocky hills being
extremely sandy, the traveling was heavy.
On arriving at the south side of the hills, the
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
pioneers, looking westward, were
suddenly cheered with a very plain
view of the Wind River chain of the
Rocky Mountains towering high up
in the air and perfectly white with
snow. Glittering in the sunbeams
they resembled white fleecy clouds.
Beyond this place, the road grad-
ually bent to the west and north-
west, and at a distance of 6¾ miles
from their noon halt the pioneers
found themselves on the banks of
the river again.
About 4:30 p.m. they continued
their travel on the banks of the
Sweetwater until 6 p.m., at which
time they formed their encamp-
ment on the right bank, having
traveled that afternoon 8½ miles
and during the day 17 miles.
If the pioneers had traveled the
main road during the afternoon
it would have led them across the
Sweetwater four times in ten miles, Amasa M. Lyman
but anticipating difficulty in fording March 30, 1813, Grafton County, New
because of high water, they took a
Hampshire — Feb. 4, 1877, Fillmore, Utah
less frequented trail which let off
from the river over a sandy, hilly
country. As usual, there was plenty of grass on lope. The pioneer hunters usually killed one
the river banks, but no wood. or two antelope every day.
Two of the Missouri companies were Amasa M. Lyman was born in Lyman Town-
camped near the pioneers, one about 1½ ship, Grafton County, New Hampshire, March
miles and the other a mile west. These 30, 1813, and died in Fillmore, Utah, February
Missourinas gave the pioneers to understand 4, 1877. He was one of the twelve apostles in
that in continuing their journey they would the church organization, and joined the pio-
have a long way to travel without grass or neers at Winter Quarters, being in the second
water. It was stated that a man from one of ten, of which Ezra T. Benson was captain.
these companies left his company a few days But Mr. Lyman only traveled half the way
before going ahead to examine the route., etc. with the pioneers. It will be remembered
When his company arrived at this Sweetwater that he, with several others, left the party at
encampment they found him hiding in one Laramie and started for Pueblo to meet the
of the rocky hills for fear of the Indians. He Mississippi emigrants and guide them over
reported that he had been to the South Pass the mountains to the Oregon road and thence
and that water would be found about 14 miles to the valley of the Great Salt Lake.
from this place. He had come from the pass in For this reason he did not arrive in the
two nights and had hid in the daytime to avoid valley with the main body of the pioneers,
Indians, but had seen none. He said that the but by traveling quickly and allowing for the
pass was not over 28 miles distant. several long rests made by the main company,
A small detachment from one of the Mis- Mr. Lyman was not far behind, and arrived on
souri companies encamped a short distance July 27, joining the pioneers at the camp on
in the rear of the pioneers, drove into the City Creek.
pioneers’ camp in the evening to have the On March 24, 1851, Amasa Lyman and
pioneer blacksmiths do some work for them. others started for southern California and
Burr Frost set up his forge and repaired some arrived there in June. In September they pur-
wagon wheels for one of the Missourians, chased the San Bernardino Ranch, containing
and also set some wagon tires for the pioneer 100,000 acres, and founded a settlement,
company. naming it San Bernardino.
There were no buffalo to be seen and not
much game of any kind. Near the encamp-
ment, however, Leis Barney killed two ante-
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 81 • Thursday, June 24
The morning was fine but cool in the pio-
neer camp on the Sweetwater. The pioneers
proceeded onward at 6:15 a.m., and a little
over a mile from where they had camped they
found the river again bending northward,
while the road continued nearly a seat course
and soon ascended a high bluff, on the top
of which the pioneers could see a somewhat
level road for many miles ahead.
After traveling five miles they arrived at
a level strip of land on the north side of the
road, where there was plenty of grass and the
land apparently swampy and soft. It extended
in the same direction as the road for a mile
and half and appeared to terminate where
the road crossed the lower land, although the
grass and hollow continued southward for
some distance.
Just above the point where the road
crossed at the west end some water was
standing around a small, circular, swampy
spot of land, probably half an acre in extent.
Near the edge, at the northwest corner, was
a hole which was called the ice spring (also
called Sulphur Spring). The water in this hole
smelled strongly of sulfur or alkali and was
not pleasant to the taste, but under the water,
which was over a foot deep, there was clear
and good tasting ice. Some of the brethren
broke off some pieces which floated and it
tasted sweet and pleasant. The ice was about
four inches thick and the water was very cold,
although the weather was warm.
Wilford Woodruff, in speaking of the ice
spring, remarked that it was strongly im-
pregnated with sulfur, so much so that it was
unfit to drink. The water boiled up out of bog
ground, yet all around it was so cold that after
the brethren had removed the turf about six
inches deep a solid body of ice about 18 inch-
es thick was found. The pioneers cut some of
it with axes and spades. Near this were small
ponds of salt water, in which saltpeter and
potash seemed to abound. Pure potash was
found in such large quantities on the edge of
these waters that the brethren gathered pails
full of it to raise bread. Others filled their cups
with salt so free from other mixtures that they
used at once for culinary purposes, without
resorting to any cleansing process.
Erastus Snow describes the ice as being
entirely free from ingredients with which the
water was impregnated and was covered with
a soil of turf about eight inches thick, while
the ground around seemed entirely free from
frost. It was left for chemists to determine
why this unimpregnated water remained in
this crystalline state while surrounded with
the other water.
A quarter of a mile beyond the ice spring
there was a small lake or spring of alkali on
81
the left of the road and, a little fur-
ther, still another lake. This latter
was more pleasant tasting then the
other, not being so strongly impreg-
nated with sulfur. It tasted very
much like lye, water mixed with
salt. The ground around these lakes
was white with alkali, or saleratus,
and a number of the brethren filled
their pails with it. The pioneers,
however, soon learned that it
ought to be used with care, it being
so much stronger than common
saleratus, and if the same quantity
were used it makes the bread quite
green.
After traveling 10¼ miles from
the ice spring over a very uneven
road, the pioneers descended a very
steep bluff close in the rear of one
of the Missouri companies. The oth-
er had halted a few miles ahead and
the pioneers passed them. While
winding around and descending Stephen H. Goddard
from this bluff they came in sight of Aug. 24, 1810, Champlain, New York —
the Sweetwater again.
Sept. 10, 1898, San Bernardino, California
At 3:30 p.m. the pioneers tarried
a little south of the road and formed
their own encampment for the night in a line walked to camp, but appeared to be in great
so as to enclose a bend in the Sweetwater, pain, seat falling from his forehead in large
having traveled 17¾ miles (or 12¾ miles drops. He died during the night. President
from Ice Spring) without halting on account Young was evidently filled with deep sorrow
of there being no water fit for the cattle to on account of this accident, but attached no
drink. When the pioneers camped that night blame to Brother Holman, who seemed much
the teams were nearly exhausted from fatigue, grieved. The brethren generally felt very sor-
hunger and thirst, for the day had been warm rowful also, this being the second horse shot
and they had found neither feet nor water to by accident on the journey.
induce them to stop until they reached the Stephen H. Goddard, a member of the
river. pioneer band, was still living in 1897. His
The feed at the evening encampment was home was then in Fruitvale, Alameda County,
very good and there were plenty of willow California, which is just east of Oakland. Mr.
bushes for fuel, as dense patches of willows Goddard was well remembered in Salt Lake
grew upon the margin of the stream. The river City by scores of friends. He was the first
here was about three rods wide and clear and leader of the tabernacle choir that has since
very cool. The last five or six miles of the road, become so celebrated a body of singers.
not being so sandy, afforded hard and good Mr. Goddard owned the Godbe-Pitts corner
traveling. One of the Missouri companies had and adjoining property, and resided there. He
gone on, but the other, after crossing the river, moved to California before 1897 and there re-
damped a short distance downstream at the sided with his family, his last letter to George
fording place. Goddard of Salt Lake City giving the details of
Just before dark, when the brethren were a recent illness he had passed through, but he
fetching up their teams, John G. Holman was said he expected to soon be well and around
bringing up President Young’s best horse, again.
with his loaded rifle in his hand, when the Mr. Goddard was a fine looking man and
horse undertook to run back past him and, in a portrait of him, taken in San Francisco,
order to prevent his doing so, Brother Holman showed that he had lost none of the good
jammed his gun at him. The cock caught in his looks which caused him to be spoken of as the
clothes and the gun went off, the ball lodging finest looking man in the pioneer company.
in the animal’s body. It entered a little forward He was born August 24, 1810, at Champlain,
of the nigh hind leg on the underside of the Clinton County, New York, and died in San
belly, making quite a large hole. The horse Bernardino, California, September 10, 1898.
82
Day 82 • Friday, June 25
The morning was fine, but very cool in the
pioneer camp. A moderate breeze was blow-
ing from the west which, however, increased
to a high wind.
Orson Pratt, in his narrative, under this
date states that the country began to assume a
more broken aspect, but was not so moun-
tainous as it was 50 miles to the east.
The camp was called up at daybreak and
several of the brethren crossed a branch of
the Sweetwater to fetch up the pioneer cattle
which had mixed with the herd of the Misouri-
ans when they started.
At 6:40 a.m. the pioneers pursued their
journey, fording the river a quarter of a mile
below where they had left the road the previ-
ous night. They found it nearly three feet deep
and the current very swift. After proceeding
half a mile beyond the ford, they crossed a
stream about a rod wide which appeared to
come from the northwest and emptied into
the river a little farther up. Half a mile beyond
this dream, they turned from the river to the
northwest and began to ascend a very high
bluff, which they found pretty steep and over
a mile and a half to the top. The road then
gradually bent toward the river and began to
descend over hill and hollow, and after trav-
eling four and quarter miles from where they
had camped, they struck the river again and
continued a quarter of a mile on its banks.
After traveling a quarter of a mile near
the river, the pioneers encountered another
high sand ridge, the road again winding to
the north to cross it. The descent on the west
side was very steep and rough. The river was
reached again after traveling one and a quar-
ter miles from where they last left it. Colonel
Rockwood had paid particular attention to the
place and reported that one hour’s labor for
100 men would dig down the foot of the ridge
so as to make good passing and save rising
the ridge and a mile’s travel without fording
the river.
After leaving the west foot of this ridge, the
pioneers crossed a stream about 25 feet wide,
and a quarter of a mile farther, they crossed
the same stream, but there it was only six feet
wide.
At 11:30 a.m. the pioneers crossed a small,
beautiful creek (a branch of the Sweetwater)
about two feet wide, and halted for noon on a
bottom of excellent grass with plenty of wood
and surrounded by high hills, having traveled
that forenoon eight and three-quarter miles.
The wind blew very strong from the north-
west, making it cold and unpleasant traveling
and filled the wagons with dust, so that the
brethren were nearly choked. The latitude
at this noon halt, according to Elder Pratt’s
observations, was 42 degrees 28 minutes 36
seconds, 56¼ miles from Devil’s Gate on the
left bank of the Sweetwater.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
At 1:30 p.m. the pioneers con-
tinued the journey through a very
narrow vale, at the end of which
Captains Ashworth’s and Smith’s
companies had halted. The road
here ran on the river bank for two
miles, then turned to the northwest
and ascended a succession of hills,
one after another, for three miles
farther, winding around and over
hill and valley in some places over
good, hard road, and in other places
over rocks and broken fragments
of rock, marking it severe on
wagons and requiring great care in
teamsters.
About half a mile north of the
road, at the top of this ridge, there
was a heavy bank of snow which
some of the brethren visited and
amused themselves by snow-ball-
ing each other. Brother Carrington
said there was every appearance
of a rich lead mine in the same Lorenzo Sobieski Young
place, having examined the palace March 9, 1841, Winchester, Illinios
minutely. The brethren brought
— March 28, 1924, Shelley, Idaho
some snow to the wagons and the
pioneers ate some of it, which tast-
ed refreshing in the head of the day. mile and a half south of the camp. One of the
After traveling about five miles, they Missouri companies camped about a mile be-
reached the top of these ridges and began to low the pioneers, making the third company
descend gradually over rolling land, but the the pioneers had passed lately. The pioneers
descent was not equal to the ascent. On the intended to keep ahead of the Missourians in
way up this hill which, according to Elder Wil- order to have the advantage of good feed and
ford Woodruff, was the highest and longest camping grounds.
hill that the pioneers had passed over on their Erastus Snow, in his account of this day’s
journey, they found about a quarter of a mile travel, writes: “Ite was quite warm in the
from the road, snowbanks 20 or 30 rods long morning, but as we began to mount and meet
and from five to 10 feet deep. the cold blasts of snow and ice, we began to
At the distance of seven and one-quarter gather our vests, then our coats and, finally,
miles from their noon halt, the pioneers before night, our overcoats, and were cold
crossed a narrow, wet swamp, quite difficult at that. We passed drifts of snow and large
for loaded teams to cross without help, and bodies of ice about the rivulets and during the
one and one-quarter of a mile farther another night our milk and water froze as if it were
one two feet wide. These small streams all winter.”
united in one stream about 200 yards to the Lorenzo Sobieski Young was one of the two
left below the middle creek and then appeared children of the camp, being only 6 years old
to pass under a snowbank which formed a in 1847. He was a son of the late Lorenzo D.
kind of bridge over the creek. Young and his wife, Persis Young, and was
At 6:45 p.m. the pioneers formed their born in Winchester, Morgan County, Illinois,
encampment on the north banks of a small March 9, 1841. In 1897 he resided in Hun-
tributary (Strawberry Creek) of the Sweetwa- tington, Emery County, Utah, where he had a
ter about five feet wide, in which the water farm and where he was held in high esteem
was clear and cold, having traveled that by all his neighbors. With his death in Shelley,
afternoon 11½ miles and during the day 20¼ Idaho, March 28, 1924, all the members of the
miles. This creek was very clear and cold. Its original pioneer company had passed away.
banks were well lined with willows, and about The other child of the pioneer camp was Isaac
a mile below camp there was a grove of white Perry Decker, a son of Isaac Decker. He, in
poplars. Here the animals fed on white clover. 1897, was living in Teton County, and repeat-
There were several banks of snow a little to ed efforts failed to produce his photograph.
the north, and on the banks of the creek there He died January 24, 1916, in Provo, Utah.
were groves of gooseberry bushes with small
green berries on them. The river ran within a
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 83 • Saturday, June 26
The morning was cold in the pioneer camp
on Strawberry Creek and considerable ice was
found in the water pails in the morning. The
grass was whitened with frost and the sudden
change from the high temperature of the
sandy valleys below was felt most severely by
man and beast.
At 7:40 a.m. the pioneers crossed the creek
on which they had camped during the night
and then followed up the same for about two
miles. After traveling a mile or so from their
night encampment they passed a small creek
which rose in springs a short distance south
of the road where there was a little grove of
small timber. They next crossed another ridge,
and, after traveling 2¾ miles beyond the small
creek mentioned, they crossed a tributary of
the Sweetwater (Rock Creek) about two rods
wide and two feet deep, the water in it being
clear and cold. Large deep drifts of snow were
lying on its banks, both above and below
the road. Where the snow did not cover the
ground there was good grass and plenty of
willow groves for fuel.
Two and a quarter miles beyond this creek
the pioneers crossed another stream (Willow
Creek) about eight feet wide on an average,
though where the ford was it was nearly tree
rods suede and two feet deep. The water in
this creek was also very clear and the banks
were well lined with willows and grass. When
the pioneer came to the first large creek they
at first supposed it was the Sweetwater, but
after crossing it and also another large creek a
few miles farther on, they were convinced that
these two streams were but tributaries of the
Sweetwater. All the tributaries of the Sweetwa-
ter which they had crossed lately were quite
high on account of the melting snow which
had accumulated in places upon the banks as
well as on in the mountains.
About noon the pioneer reached the north
bank of the Sweetwater. They crossed the
river and halted for noon on the south bank
of the stream after having traveled in the fore-
noon 11 miles. The river was at this point so
swollen and the water so deep that it ran into
the wagon beds more than it had done at any
previous ford. The river here seemed to con-
tain more water than it did at the point where
the pioneer first crossed it at Independence
Rock. This noon encampment was at latitude
42 degrees 22 minutes and 42 seconds, or
eight miles east of the South Pass.
83
The pioneer baited their animals
on a small bottom, near the ford,
where there was quite a supply of
green grass, while at the foot of a
small bluff, a few rods distant, there
was about one acre of snow, which
in some places was not less than
ten feet deep.
At 2:20 p.m. the pioneers moved
onward, the weather being warm
and the roads dusty. They ascend-
ed a steep hill on to the high land,
where they enjoyed traveling over a
good level gravelly road, After trav-
eling seven miles in the afternoon
they reached a level spot of grassy
lower land. Here the wagons were
halted, while President Young and
some others went over a ridge to
the north to look for a campground,
as some of the brethren said that
the Sweetwater was close by. Pres-
ident Young soon sent a message
for the camp to proceed, which was George Wardle
done. Feb. 3, 1820, Leek, England —
Leaving the road and taking a
Nov. 25, 1901, Vernal, Utah
northwest course, the pioneers
formed their encampment for the
night on the south banks of the Sweetwater Church in 1839, emigrated to Nauvoo in 1842
at 6:45 p.m. about a quarter of a mile from and passed through all the difficulties inci-
the road, having traveled that afternoon 7¼ dent to the time, arriving at Winter Quarters
miles and during the day 18¼ miles. This was in 1846. He left there with the other pioneers
a good place to camp, there being plenty of and was with the party in all its travels and
grass and willows. hardships. He was one of the advance com-
Orson Pratt, George A. Smith and a few pany to enter the Valley with Orson Pratt, and
others traveled a few miles further to the was the first to go to work whipsawing for
so-called Pacific Spring, where they stopped lumber. He and George A. Smith was among
overnight with some eastbound travelers and the first to plant potatoes in the Valley.
where they also met Moses Harris, a moun- Mr. Wardle was a great musician, one of the
taineer and trapper, who gave them important earliest singers in Utah, and was a member
information concerning the Rocky Mountain of the Nauvoo brass band. He, with James
country lying west. Smithers, conducted the singing for the
Soon after the pioneers halted that night ceremonies incident to laying the cornerstone
Eric Glines came up, having left the brethren of the Salt Lake Temple in 1853, and was
at the upper ferry on the Platte River the pre- deeply interested in all branches of music. He
vious Wednesday morning, June 22. He had also taught dancing in Marcy R. Thompson’s
camped one night alone, the other nights he log house and among his early pupils were
had camped with Missourians. George Q. Cannon, Joseph F. Smith and others.
George Wardle was a survivor of the Until a few years ago there were many alive
pioneer company in 1897. He lived in Vernal, who used to dance at Mrs. Thompson’s, and
Uintah County, and wrote an interesting letter nearly everyone remembered George Wardle.
to The Tribune full of pioneer reminiscences. He died November 25, 1901, in Vernal, Utah.
Mr. Wardle was born in Leek Staffordshire,
England, February 3, 1820. He joined the
84
Day 84 • Sunday, June 26
The morning was fine, but cold, with a clear
sky, in the pioneer camp on the Sweetwater.
Although it was the sabbath, the ox teams
were started at 7:55 a.m. and the remainder
of the teams shortly after. The pioneers soon
met eight men returning from Oregon to the
States, having more than 20 horses and mules
with them, mostly laden with packs of robes,
skins, etc. Several of the brethren sent letters
back with them.
After traveling two and three-quarters
miles the pioneers arrived at the dividing
ridge, or Continental Divide, where Elder
Pratt the day before had taken a barometrical
observation and found the altitude to be 7,085
feet above the level of the sea. This spot was
278½ miles from Fort John by the road the
pioneers had traveled. Two miles farther on
the pioneer arrived at the springs or creek
where Elders Orson Pratt, George A. Smith,
and others had camped during the night, on
the headwaters of the Green River, which
the eastern bound traders, and although the
stream was small (Pacific Creek), they had the
satisfaction there of seeing the water run west
instead of east.
It was with great difficulty that the brethren
could determine where the dividing point of
land was which separated the waters flowing
towards the Gulf of Mexico from those emp-
tying into the Pacific Ocean. “This country,”
writes Elder Pratt, “is called the South Pass,
for some 15 or 20 miles in length and breadth
is a gently undulating plain or prairie, thickly
covered with wild sage from one to two feet
high. On the highest part of this plain over
which our road passes, and which separates
the waters of the two oceans, is a small dry
basin of 15 or 20 acres, destitute of wild sage,
but containing good grass. From this basin,
about half a mile both to the east and to the
west, the road gently rises about 40 or 50 feet,
either of which elevations may be considered
as the highest on our road in the Pass.”
Wilford Woodruff writes: “I was quite as-
tonished at the road and country today. Con-
sidering that we were crossing what is called
the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains, it was
the best road we had had for many days; and
had it not been for the Wind River range of
mountains, full in view on our right, covered
with eternal snow and some snowbanks ten
feet deep by the side of the road, and Table
Rock on the left, I should have thought myself
traveling over the beautiful prairies of Illinois
and Missouri, except that the country was cov-
ered over more with sage than prairie grass.”
At Pacific Springs, the pioneers met one
of the Oregon men whose name was Moses
Harris, who intended to wait for the next
companies, etc., traveling westward and act
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
as a pilot for them. He appeared to
be extensively known in Oregon
and the subject of much dispute
on account of his having found a
new route to Oregon south of the
old one. The brethren found him to
be a man of intelligence and well
acquainted with the western coun-
try. He presented a file of Oregon
papers, beginning with February
11, 1847, and five following num-
bers for the perusal of the pioneers
during the day. He also presented a
number of the California Star, pub-
lished at Yerba Buena by Samuel
Brannan. Many of the brethren con-
versed freely with Mr. Harris of the
country westward. He said he was
well acquainted with the Bear River
Valley and the region around the
Salt Lake, but spoke unfavorably of
the Salt Lake Valley for settlement.
From his discouraging description,
the pioneers had but little to hope Francis M. Pomeroy
for. He spoke of the whole country 1822, Somers, Connecticut
as being sandy and destitute of
— 1882, Mesa, Arizona
timber and vegetation, except wild
sage. However, he gave a more
favorable account of a small region under the and the view was very extensive. There was
Bear River Mountains called Cache Valley or very little grass to be seen anywhere, and not
Willow Valley, where the trappers were in the much near Dry Sandy. There was little water
habit of caching their robes, etc., to hide them in the creek at first sight, but by digging and
from the Indians. He presented that valley as tramping on the quicksand, sufficient water
being a fine place to winter cattle. was easily obtained to supply the company.
After spending some time in conversation In the evening Ezra T. Benson was very
with Mr. Harris, the pioneers continued the sick.
journey from Pacific Springs, three miles Mr. Harris, who had accompanied the
farther, and at noon they formed their noon pioneers from Pacific Springs to Dry Sandy,
encampment on Muddy Creek, which was stayed with them overnight. He expected
about three feet wide at this point. to pilot some of the Missouri companies to
Muddy Creek, now called Pacific Creek, Oregon. He had two pack mules loaded with
which the pioneers crossed before halting for skins to trade.
noon, was reached after traveling since morn- Francis M. Pomeroy, one of the fist
ing, six and one-quarter miles. It was 275½ company of pioneers, was born at Somers,
miles from Fort Bridger, or six miles west of Connecticut, in 1822, and went to Nauvoo,
the South Pass. Illinois, in 1844. On the pioneer trip he was a
The pioneers had intended to stop at Pacific hard worker, and was one of those left at the
Springs overnight, but the place, being very Platte to ferry over the other emigrants, and
miry, they continued their journey to Muddy was delayed accordingly. Though making the
Creek, where there were many small fish, but greater part of the trip with the company, he
no feed for the cattle. did not arrive in Salt Lake City until several
At 2:25 p.m. the pioneers resumed their weeks later.
journey and traveled over gently rolling land In the early Utah days, Mr. Pomery was
and a good hard road, but through a barren engaged chiefly in the lumber trade, and was
sage-covered country with but little grass, un- among the first to erect a sawmill in Little
til 6:40 p.m., when they formed their night en- Cottonwood Canyon, and also one where Park
campment on the west bank of Dry sandy, or City now stands, and still later, one in Paris,
in a dry, sandy valley near a bed of quicksand, Idaho. He moved to Arizona in 1877 and died
having traveled that afternoon nine miles and in Mesa in 1882.
during the day 15¼ miles. The country west
for many miles appeared destitute of timber
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 85 • Monday, June 28
The morning was fine but cool in the
pioneers camp on Dry Sandy. Many of the
brethren traded with Moses Harris for pants,
jackets, shirts, etc., made of buckskin and also
for the skins themselves. His prices were high,
the skins being $1.50 and $2 each; a pair of
pants cost $3, etc. He would take rifles, pow-
der, lead, caps or calico and domestic shirts in
exchange, but put his own price on both sides,
and it was difficult to obtain even a fair trade.
At 7:30 p.m. the pioneers proceeded on
their journey. Mr. Harris, after taking break-
fast with President Young, was left on the
ground to wait for the Missouri companies.
After traveling six miles the road forked, one
continued in a westerly course (the Oregon
Trail), the other taking a southwest course.
The pioneers took the left hand road (travel-
ing in a southwesterly direction), which led
toward California. This junction of the road
was 297½ miles from Fort John. The pioneers
then continued to travel over a desert which
yielded nothing but wild sage and occasion-
ally a grass root and weeds, until 1:30 p.m.,
when they arrived and halted for noon on the
banks of the Little Sandy, having traveled 13½
miles without signs of wood, water or feed for
their teams.
The Bear River Mountains could be seen in
the west, covered with snow. The Little Sandy
was about 20 feet wide on an average, but at
the fording place over three rods wide, two
and a half feet deep, with muddy water and
a swift current. There was not much grass
and no timber on Little Sandy, except willow
bushes, but quite a variety of roots bearing
very handsome colored flowers. One of the
brethren picked up a large piece of petrified
wood.
At 4:15 p.m. the pioneers commenced
fording the creek (Little Sandy) and found it in
no way difficult until a number of the wagons
had crossed over, when the banks began to
be soft and muddy. Several of the rear teams
required help in crossing. At 4:45 p.m. all the
teams were safely over.
The company then proceeded on, but after
traveling a little over a mile they were met by
George A. Smith, who introduced the pioneers
to James Bridger of Bridger’s fort, on his way
to Fort John (Fort Laramie) in company with
two of his men. Mr. Bridger was informed that
the pioneers had designed to call at his place
to make inquiries about the country, etc., and
he said if they could turn off the road here and
camp he would stay with them until morning.
A camping place was selected and the pio-
neers turned off from the road about a quarter
of a mile and formed their encampment near
Little Sandy at 6 p.m., having traveled that
85
afternoon one and three-quarters
miles and during the day 15¼
miles. A while after they camped
the Twelve and several others went
to Mr. Bridger to make inquiries
concerning the route, country,
etc., and a meeting was held in a
grove. It was impossible to form a
correct idea of either from the very
imperfect and irregular way Mr.
Bridger gave his descriptions, but
the general items in substance were
as follows, according to William
Clayton’s journal:
There was no blacksmith shop
at the fort (Bridger) at present.
There had been one, but it had been
destroyed. Nearly 100 wagons had
gone on the Hastings route through
Weber’s fork. From Bridger’s
fort to the Salt Lake the distance,
according to Hastings, was about
100 miles. Mr. Bridger himself
had been through 50 times, but John S. Eldredge
could form no correct idea of the April 30, 1821, Sennett, New York — May 7,
distance. Mr. Hasting’s route left the
1871, Charleston, Wasatch County, Utah
Oregon Trail at Fort Bridger. There
was no timber on the Utah Lake,
only on the streams which emptied into it. tucky. Supper was provided for Mr. Bridger
In the outlet of the Utah Lake (Jordan River), and his men and after eating, the council was
which runs into the Salt Lake, there was an dismissed. The evening was very fine, but
abundance of blue grass and red and white mosquitoes were numerous.
clover. Some of his men have been around the Several of the brethren bought dressed
Salt Lake in canoes. The Utah tribe of Indians deerskin shirts and pants of Bridger and his
inhabiting the region around the Utah Lake companions; they would swap an outside
were a bad people. If they caught a man alone dress for one hickory or checked shirt.
they would surely rob and abuse him, if they James Bridger was born March 17, 1804,
did not kill him. A man known as Peg Leg at Richmond, Virginia. He joined Ashley’s Fur
Smith had opened a farm in the Bear River Company in the wilds of western America.
Valley, where the solid was good and likely While east in 1856 and 1857 he bought a farm
to produce corn, were it not for the excessive near Westport, Missouri, but the quiet life
cold nights, which Mr. Bridger thought would was unendurable to him, and he had to again
prevent the growth of corn. The great desert come west. He died in Westport, Missouri,
extended from the Salt Lake to the Gulf of July 17, 1881.
California, which desert was perfectly barren. Pioneer John S. Eldredge was born in
He never saw any grapes on Utah Lake, but Sennett, New York, April 30, 1821, and came
there were plenty of cherries and berries of to Nauvoo in the early ‘40s. He drove one of
several kinds. He thought Utah Lake was the Brigham Young’s wagons into the Valley, be-
best country in the vicinity of the Salt Lake. ing with the main company. He was one of the
The pioneers would find plenty of water on first to plow in the Valley. In 1852, he went on
the way from their present camping place to a mission to Australia, but was shipwrecked
Bridger’s fort, except after they crossed Green in the middle of the Pacific, being cast upon
River and traveled five miles beyond it, where a coral reef, and it was related of him that he
they would have to travel 18 or 20 miles with- was the rescuer of several lives on that occa-
out water, but there was plenty of grass. The sion. After several weeks he, with the other
Indians south of Utah Lake and this side of the passengers, was rescued and safely landed in
desert raised corn, wheat and other kinds of San Francisco. He returned to Utah in 1856
grain and produce in abundance. The Indians and took to farming. He died in Charlston,
south of Utah Lake raised as good corn, wheat Wasatch County, Utah, May 7, 1871.
and pumpkins as were ever raised in old Ken-
86
Day 86 • Tuesday, June 29
The morning was very pleasant in the
pioneer camp on the Little Sandy until some
time after sunrise, when the day became very
warm.
Immediately after sunrise President Young
directed Thomas Bullock to write a letter
of introduction for James Bidger to take to
Captain Thomas Grover at the Platte ferry.
This was given to Mr. Bridger, who, after a
short conversation, left the pioneer camp. As
a sort of a parting word, according to Wilford
Woodruff, Mr. Bidger remarked that it would
not be prudent to bring a large population into
the Salt Lake Basin until it was ascertained if
grain would grow and mature there.
The pioneers started from Little Sandy at
7:40 a.m. and traveled over very good roads
through barren lands until 10:45 a.m., when
they halted for noon at the ford of the Big
Sandy, in latitude 43 degrees 6 minutes 42
seconds, or 26 miles from the South Pass,
having traveled 6¾ miles. The second division
passed over the river, but the first division
halted on the east side. This stream appeared
to be about seven rods wide at the crossing
and about two feet deep in the channel; it was
not generally so wide, but deeper. The melting
snow in the mountains had lately raised all
the streams on both sides of the South Pass.
There was some timber on the banks of Big
Sandy and plenty of grass in places for teams.
At 1:30 p.m. the pioneers again proceeded
on their journey. Presiden Young and some
others went ahead in the “Revenue Cutter”
wagon to look out a campground for the night.
Their course was still about southwest, the
road generally good, over gently rolling, hard,
sandy land; in some places the surface of the
country was covered with loose fragments of
hard rock.
There was scarcely anything green to be
seen along the road except the various species
of wild sage, which grew from six inches to
eight feet high with stalks from one-fourth of
an inch to four inches in diameter. The pio-
neers found this to be quite a good substitute
for firewood.
After traveling 9½ miles, President Young
rode up and reported that the pioneers would
have to go at least six miles farther before
they could get feed. It was then a quarter past
6 p.m., but the teamsters spurred up their
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
teams in order to get through. Most
of the road after this for four miles
was very hilly and uneven, and in
places the loose fragments of rocks
made it very bad traveling, but
many rocks were thrown from the
road by the spare men.
The weather grew cooler toward
evening, some large clouds rising in
the west which favored the teams
considerably.
Wilford Woodruff and Porter
Rockwell had gone ahead to pick
out a campground. They were about
six miles ahead of the camp when
they found the first place they
could get grass after traveling 15
miles from where the pioneers had
nooned.
Elder Woodruff returned about
four miles to meet the camp and
found Brother Fowler very sick
in his carriage. He was in great
distress, suffering in his head, Return Jackson Redden
back and bones throughout, and Sept. 27, 1817, Portage County, Ohio
complained bitterly of the jar of the
— Aug. 30, 1891, Hoytsville, Utah
wagons; he finally became deliri-
ous. After getting into camp about 9
p.m. Elder Woodruff doctored Brother Fowler with sickness within the past three days and
with composition tea, pills, etc., and he soon a number more were attacked this evening.
got better. They generally began with headache, suc-
At 9:05 p.m. the pioneers found themselves ceeded by violent fever, and some of them
on the lowlands on the right bank of the Big were delirious for a while. Some of the people
Sandy, and there formed their encampment, believed that this sickness was caused by
having traveled since noon 17 miles and using mineral saleratus for making bread. It
during the day 23¾ miles, which was the appeared to be an article which ought to be
longest day’s journey they had made since used with great care, if used at all. There had
leaving Winter Quarters. been no case considered dangerous as yet, nor
The camp was formed by moonlight. There any of long duration.
seemed to be plenty of feed for the teams, but Return Jackson Redden was born Septem-
no wood for fuel, except some cottonwood, ber 22, 1817, in Portage County, Ohio, and
which grew upon an island and upon the died August 30, 1891, in Hoytsville, Summit
opposite bank of the stream. County, Utah. He traveled in the tenth ten, of
For a distance of 12 miles water might have which Appleton M. Harmon was captain, and
been obtained from the Big Sandy, which ran entered the Valley with the main company of
about half a mile to the left of the road, but as pioneers July 22. He left the Valley to return to
there was no grass the pioneers concluded to Winter Quarters in August, 1847, being cap-
pass on. Toward evening the mosquitoes were tain of the first ten in the second division of
very troublesome, but as night came on and the return company, which arrived at Winter
the atmosphere became cooler they ceased to Quarters October 31. He at once prepared for
be troublesome. the second trip to Utah, to be made the next
Many of the brethren had been stricken spring.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 87 • Wednesday, June 30
The morning was very warm in the pioneer
camp on the Big Sandy. The pioneers resumed
their journey at 8:15 a.m. Several more of the
brethren were reported to be sick. President
Young, Elder Kimball and others rode ahead
again. The pioneers found the roads good but
sandy, which filled the wagons with dust.
At 11:30 a.m. they arrived on the banks
of the Green River, having traveled eight
miles and formed their night’s encampment
in a line under the shade of the cottonwood
timber. This river was about 17 rods wide and
altogether too deep to be forded. Its banks
were well lined with cottonwood, but none
large enough to make a canoe. There were
also many patches of wild apple trees and
rose bushes abounded bearing pretty roses.
This river was 338½ miles from Fort John or
Laramie. A narrow strip of land which might
answer for farming skirted both sides of the
river. The grass was good and plentiful, but
still not so much as had been represented by
travelers.
Soon after reaching Green River, President
Young gave orders to Tarlton Lewis to build
a raft with which to ferry over the first divi-
sion of the pioneers. After dinner President
Kimball gave orders to the second division
to build a raft. The river was so high at this
time that it could only be crossed with rafts
or boats.
After dinner the brethren began building
the rafts, one for each division. Both rafts
were finished that same day.
Several men were picked out to guard cattle
and some to burn charcoal. Brother George P.
Billings and Edson Whipple were very sick.
Early in the afternoon Elder Samuel Bran-
nan arrived in the pioneer camp on Green
River. He came from the bay of San Francis-
co, California, to meet the pioneers, obtain
counsel, etc. He was accompanied by a Mr.
Smith and another young man not named in
company with them. They had come by way of
Fort Hall and brought with them several files
of the California Star, a newspaper published
by Samuel Brannan in California.
Elder Brannan had been appointed in the
city of New York early in 1846 to take charge
of a company of saints and conduct them by
ship to upper California by way of Came Horn.
The ship sailed from New York February 4,
1846, and landed in California July 31 of the
same year. Eleven deaths occurred on the
voyage. After arriving in California, Elder
Brannan had been engaged part of the time
in locating a colony of the saints on the San
Joaquin River, and having brought a good
printing press with him from New York he
87
had commenced the publication of
a newspaper called the California
Star, 16 numbers of which he had
published at Yerba Buena before
he left California. He brought
companies of these with him to the
pioneer camp. He had left the bay of
San Francisco April 4, 1847, for the
purpose of meeting the pioneers,
accompanies by only two persons,
and had at this early season of the
year braved the dangers of deep
snow upon the mountains and the
wild and savage tribes of Indians
who roamed over the barren ranges
of the west, and had arrived safely
in the pioneer camp. He reported
that on this journey he had passed
directly over the camping ground
in the Sierra Nevada Mountains,
where about 40 or 50 emigrants
bound for California (the Donner
Party) had perished, and come of
them had been eaten by their fellow Conrad Kleinman
sufferers; their skulls, bones and
carcasses were found strewn in 1815, Bavaria, Germany —
every direction. Samuel Brannan Nov. 12, 1907, St. George, Utah
had also met the hindmost one of
these unfortunate creatures making his way neers that their Green River camp was within
to the settlements of California. He was a the boundaries of Upper California.
German and had lived upon human flesh for Brannan’s main object in meeting the pio-
several weeks. neers was to induce them to go to California
The pioneers were truly glad to meet Elder and settle, and he had big inducements to
Brannan and to hear from him good news of offer, but he failed to convince the Mormon
the saints whom he had conducted to Califor- leaders, even though he came to the Valley
nia in the ship Brooklyn. He gave an interest- with them and tarried a while before return-
ing account of their travels, their landing and ing to the Pacific Coast, where he afterward
their new settlement (New Hope), which had became a successful pioneer and financier,
been located in the San Joaquin Valley, where but finally lost his fortune and died poor.
some of the brethren were putting in wheat Toward evening a storm blew up from the
and preparing to meet the pioneers from west in the pioneer camp; there was no rain,
the east. Elder Brannan also gave a report of but a tremendous wind. The first division of
the Mormon Battalion, which had arrived in the pioneers finished their raft before dark,
southern California, and furthermore report- the other division later in the evening. At a
ed the Addison Pratt, who had filled a mission sough a short distance down the river some
to the Society Islands, had arrive in California, of the brethren caught a number of very little
after establishing a successful mission on the fish. The Mosquitoes were very troublesome
island of the South Pacific Ocean; nearly 3,000 on the banks of the Green River.
natives had been baptized on the Austral and The portrait published today is of Conrad
Tuamotu groups. Kleinman, one of the members of Brigham
Elder Brannan informed the pioneers that Young’s pioneer company who was still alive
Captain John A. Sutter, who had established in 1897. He was born in Bavaria, Germany, in
a fort on the Sacramento River, California, 1815, and resided in Mesa, Maricopa County,
was very friendly toward the “Mormons” and Arizona, in 1897, where he was a most re-
wished them to come and settle near him. spected citizen, the firm of D. H. Kleinman &
Elder Brannan also said that he saw more Brothers, his sons, being one of the successful
timber on Green River than he had seen on his business enterprises of that city. Mr. Kleinman
route since he left California. He had traveled died November 12, 1907, at St. George, Utah.
through a part of Oregon, and told the pio-
88 Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847

Day 88 • Thursday, July 1

The morning was fine in the pioneer camp ing picture against the
on the Green River. The two rafts which had sky. Like other moun-
been built the day before were launched in tains and canyons nearer
the morning and the pioneers commenced to Salt Lake Valley, the
ferrying across the Green River, but they only butte is still one of the
succeeded in getting 14 wagons across that scenes along the line
day on account of a very high wind. of the Union Pacific
George A. Smith, Ezra T. Benson, Thomas Railroad.
Bullock, William Clayton, and George Wardle An incident which
were sick. Brother Fowler was getting better. may serve as a sequel to
About 15 of the brethren had been taken sick yesterday’s recital was
with fever, ague, etc., during the past few days. related to The Tribune in
This was said to be a common experience with Salt Lake City June 30,
emigrants coming from the snowy mountains 1897. The speaker was
to the lower levels where the weather was hot. General W. B. Franklin,
The 14 wagons which crossed the river president of the National
formed an encampment on the southwest Soldiers’ Home, who was
bank. Nine of these wagons belonged to the found in his private car
first division and five to the second division. at the Rio Grande West-
The raft made by the second division being ern Station. The general,
too heavy, the brethren had to cut it to pieces who was a veteran of the
and make a new one. Civil War, took a decided
Orson Pratt, in summarizing, described interest in the pioneer
Green River as being very high, the water in camp on Green River
the channel being from 12 to 15 feet deep and June 30, 1847, and by a
about 180 yards wide, with a very rapid cur- strange coincidence, the
rent. With the two rafts, each rigged with oars date was an anniversary
and rudder, the brethren succeeded in getting of his interesting life also
all the wagons over in safety without taking and, stranger still, the Giant’s Butte on Green River
out their contents. Most of the animals were South Pass and Green
(After a wood engraving in the
compelled to swim over. There was consider- River were places he had
able cottonwood growing on the bank of the passed 52 years before. London Art Journal)
river and grass grew in some places. The mos- General Franklin was
quitoes were very numerous and troublesome attached to the First Dragoons, commanded was with the regiment, which came as far as
during the day, but the nights were generally by Lieutenant Colonel Stephen W. Kearney, Green River, its object being to protect the
too cold for them. in 1845. The other veteran, General Phil many emigrants en route across the plains. He
Green River in those days, as today, was Kearney, was also with the dragoons, being a remembered all the details of the emigration
surrounded by notable landmarks, and its nephew of Stephen. of the years prior to 1847, and spoke of the
scenery was really beautiful. A few miles In 1845 Lieutenant Colonel Stephen W. enlistment of the Mormon Battalion. Another
southeast of the crossing arose the Giant’s Kearney started on the march westward to the coincidence was this, that Stephen W. Kearney
Butte, so-called at that time. It rose like a South Pass, which was the first military expe- was made a brigadier general on June 30,
tower back from the stream, its peculiar dition that penetrated so far from settlements 1846.
red-colored formations making quite a strik- into the Indian country. General Franklin
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 89 • Friday, July 2
The morning was more pleasant in the
pioneer camp on the Green River than the
preceding days had been, and the ferrying
commenced at daylight and proceeded
rapidly.
The new raft, which was ready for use at 9
a.m., was taken into service with good effect
by the second division of the pioneers. Thus
47 wagons, including those in which Presi-
dent Young and Elders Heber C. Kimball and
Willard Richards rode, were taken across the
river during the day.
A meridian altitude of the sun taken by
Elder Orson Pratt showed that the latitude of
the ferry was 41 degrees 52 minutes 37 sec-
onds, and the longitude was 109 degrees 30
minutes. The Green River ferry was 51 miles
west of the South Pass.
Most of the horses and cattle were com-
pelled to swim the river in the morning,
though they were taken across with consider-
able difficulty.
A council meeting, attended by the Twelve
and a few others, was held in the afternoon,
at which four men, namely, Porter Rockwell,
Phineas H. Young, Eric Glines, and George
Woodward, were appointed to return east to
meet the next company of saints and pilot
them on their journey westward.
Elder Samuel Brannan met with the coun-
cil. He stated that he had a large box contain-
ing copies of the Doctrine and Covenants and
also Orson Pratt’s Almanac and other Church
publications, but he had refused to sell them,
although he had more than 50 applicants. He
also stated that there were seven months of
rainy season and five months of dry season
in California; the dry season, commencing
in April, was very windy. Barley would grow
there, but it had no hull on it; oats, which
grew wild, were not cultivated; colover grew
high enough to reach the horses’ bellies. Wild
horses were scattered all over the plains and
there were also geese in abundance. Salmon
were found in great numbers in the San Joa-
quin River, some of them weighing from 10 to
12 pounds. Oysters were very small, and there
were no lobsters, crabs or whales, and only a
few small fish in the Bay of San Francisco.
Each of the brethren present wrote their
views concerning the counsel to be given to
the camps of the saints which should follow.
Several salmon trout were caught at the
mouth of the slough on the Green River near
the ferry, one weighing 7½ pounds. Some of
the brethren who had gathered a quantity of
saleratus from the saleratus beds, about three
miles from Independence Rock, had found out
by this time that it served a good purpose in
the baking of bread and for other family uses.
According to instructions, Elder Thomas
planted three small patches of early yellow
and white corn, assisted by Willard Richards.
89
The day was exceedingly hot
and both men and beasts were
much troubled by mosquitoes.
Another peculiar formation of
the Green River country was the
so-called Church Buttes, seen
to the southwest of the pioneer
camp. A station on the Union
Pacific railroad is named Church
Buttes, in honor of the well-
known landmark.
“Church Buttes are a fragment
of the celebrated Mauvaises Church Buttes, Wyoming
Terres, or Bad Lands, on the old
overland stage road,” wrote Wil- (After a wood engraving in the
liam H. Riding in 1897. “They London Art Journal)
are about 150 miles from here
(Salt Lake City) and have an ele-
vation of 6731 feet. They consist
of deposits of soft sedimentary
sandstones and mealy clays in
highly colored horizontal strata,
and most remarkable paleonto-
logical remains have been found
in them.”
Professor Marsh, in his
expedition of 1870, discovered
the fossils of a rhinoceros, some
turtles and birds, the areodon
and the titanotherium; the jaw of
the latter measured four feet in
length; but these are matters of
thousands of years ago, and have Starling Graves Driggs
but little to do with the present
story.
Feb. 12, 1822, Pennsylvania —
Starling Graves Driggs, one Dec. 3, 1860, Parowan Utah
of the original Utah pioneers
under President Young, was born February 12, Amasa M. Lyman and when, in 1851, Bother
1822, in Pennsylvania, the son of Uriel Driggs Lyman headed an expedition to California,
and Hannah Ford. He joined The Church of as a member of that company he assisted in
Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints in Ohio and establishing the settlement of San Bernardino,
emigrated to Nauvoo in 1840. As one of the California. In 1852 he returned to Salt Lake
exiles from Nauvoo, he left that city in Febru- City with Apostles Lyman and Charles C.
ary, 1846, and traveled to the Missouri River, Rich. Making another trip to San Bernardino
where he assisted in the founding of Winter in the spring of 1853, he returned to Utah in
Quarters, Nebraska. He returned to Nauvoo 1855 with a train of merchandise and during
to assist his parents in moving west with the this trip became acquainted with Miss Sarah
family, who were forced from their Nauvoo Ridgers, whom he married in Salt Lake City,
home. His father died on this journey in Lee May 29, 1855. He returned to California the
County, Iowa. The Driggs family, including following spring, accompanied by his wife and
several brothers and their families, journeyed nephew, Benjamin W. Driggs and his family
to Kanesville, Iowa, arriving there late in the left San Bernardino when the saints were
fall of 1846. They located temporarily about advised to come to Utah on account of the
six miles north of that town, at what was then Buchanan expedition, after which he settled
called Thomas Camp. in Parowan, Iron County, where he died
Having been selected as one of the original December 3, 1860, from the effects of an acci-
pioneer band, he left Winter Quarters in April, dent which occurred while he was operating a
1847, after bidding farewell to his mother, threshing machine on his farm in Parowan.
who died during the winter of 1847. With the He was a man of unusually optimistic tem-
pioneer band he arrived in Great Salt Lake perament, honest and sincere, and had the
Valley in July, 1847, and helped to build up love and confidence not only of his family, but
the first settlement of Utah. also of a large number of friends.
Mr. Driggs lived with the family of Apostle
90
Day 90 • Saturday, July 3
In the morning there was a light sprinkling
of rain in the pioneer camp on the Green Riv-
er. The pioneers succeeded in getting the last
wagon over the river before noon, no accident
having occurred. They had just finished this
labor when a very strong wind arose and soon
afterward it commenced to rain. Later in the
day there were several showers, accompanied
by thunder and lightning.
A guide post was set up near the ferry,
stating that this place was 340 miles from Fort
Laramie.
It was concluded that some of the brethren
would go on and look out a campground a few
miles ahead, so as to shorten the distance of
the next day’s travel. These brethren returned
about noon and orders were given to harness
up the teams and proceed, so, consequently,
at 3:15 p.m., the pioneers moved forward and
went three miles down the river, where they
formed their encampment in the midst of
an army of mosquitoes. These insects were
more numerous there than anywhere on the
route; everything was literally covered with
them, making both men and beasts suffer,
the teams being restive in the wagons. There
was plenty of grass for the teams, and it was
the intention to tarry at that camping place
until Monday morning. The weather had been
warm in the middle of the day, and the west
wind was blowing. The solid was barren and
sandy along the Green River, except near the
river bank.
The ferrying was completed in the evening,
and the pioneers hauled one of the rafts up on
the east side of the river for the use of the next
company of saints.
In the evening the brethren were called
together in the new camp and such of the men
who had feld desirous to return and meet
their families were given permission to do
so. The families were expecting to be in the
next emigration camp, supposed to be several
hundred miles in the rear. Five volunteered
to return, namely, Phineas H. Young, George
Woodward, Aaron F. Farr, Eric Glines, and
Rodney Badger. The five men who expected
to return were to take the “Revenue Cutter”
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
wagon instead of a horse each, as so
many animals could not be spared
by the camp. President Young also
gave the camp some instructions
regarding their trading at Fort
Bridger, when they should arrive
there, and advised them to be wise,
etc.
In the evening Dr. Willard
Richards wrote letters to Elders
Amasa M. Lyman and Charles C.
Rich. William Calyton made a table
of distances between creeks and
campgrounds. Tomas Bullock made
out a synopsis of the camp journal
between Ford John and Green
River; the two documents were
combined together. The Twelve met
beside the doctor’s wagon, when
both papers were read to them and
observations made on the margin.
A number of other letters were sent
back to the rear companies by the
brethren. Burr Frost
President Young and a number
of others went out to make a good March 4, 1816, Waterbury, Connecticut
road about half a mile beyond the — March 16, 1878, Salt Lake City
camp so that the pioneers would
not have to repair roads on Monday morning. Burr Frost was a pioneer whose name ap-
Most of the brethren who had been sick pears almost daily in the histories of the trip.
had recovered. Erastus Snow, who was one of He was the blacksmith of the pioneer camp,
those who had been attacked, writes: “The day and, with Thomas Tanner, had charge of all
we reached Green River I had a violent attack the repair work of the train. When the Oregon
of mountain fever, and within the week past emigrants were passed on the road, Burr
about one-half of the camp has been attacked Frost’s portable forge was continually in use,
by the same complaint. Its first appearance is and many jobs were secured by him along the
like that of a severe cold, producing soreness road, payment being made in bacon, flour,
of the flesh and pains in the head and in all and other provisions.
parts of the body; as the fever increases the Burr Frost was born in Waterbury, Con-
pain in the back and head becomes almost in- necticut, March 4, 1816; he died in Salt Lake
sufferable, but an active portion of physic, ac- City, March 16, 1878.
companied by warm and stimulating drinks, Thomas Tanner, the other blacksmith on
such as ginger and pepper, cayenne, etc., the pioneer camp, was born March 31, 1804,
taken freely before and after the operation of in Bristol, Gloucestershire, England, and died
the physic, seldom fails to break it up, though in Salt Lake City, August 2, 1855. Repeated
it leaves the patient sore and feeble.” efforts have failed to produce his photograph.
While most of the brethren had almost
recovered, Elder Clayton was still very sick.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 91 • Sunday, July 4
The morning was fine and warm in the
pioneer camp on the Green River. The five
pioneer brethren (Phineas H. Young, George
Woodward, Aaron F. Farr, Erick Glines, and
Rodney Badger), who were going back to meet
the next company of saints, left the pioneer
camp and started for the Green River ferry.
They took with them instructions to the saints
whom they should meet and aso a synopsis
from some of the company’s journals as a
reference, as they contained an account of
distances, good camping places, etc., and if
they should meet a detachment of the Mor-
mon Battalion under the command of Captain
James Brown, one of the pioneers should
return with them as a guide. President Young,
Heber C. Kimball, Willard Richards, Wilford
Woodruff, and others went back with the
returning pioneer brethren to ferry them over
the Green River.
When President Young had his party and
the five returning pioneers reached the ferry
on the west bank of the Green River, they saw
13 horsemen on the opposite bank with their
baggage on one of the pioneers rafts. “And,”
writes Elder Woodruff, “who should they be
but some of our brethren belonging to the
Mormon Battalion who had volunteered into
the service of the U.S. Army one year ago this
month and who belonged to Captain James
Brown’s detachment which had spent the
winter at Pueblo. Brother Amasa M. Lyman,
whom we had sent on to them, had reached
them and informed them where we were, and
the whole detachment of 140 of the brethren
were within seven days’ drive of us. We drew
up the raft and crossed them all over except
one, who returned with our pilots to meet the
next company. When we met it was truly a
hearty greeting and shaking of hands.”
The 13 Battalion brethren had left the main
detachment at the crossing of the Platte the
previous Monday (June 28) and by riding hard
they overtook the pioneers on the Green River.
These men, who had wintered at Pueblo, had,
together with the rest of the sick detachment,
been ordered to march to the Pacific Coast,
and had started for the mountains, but 13
men had been detached by Captain Brown to
go in advance of the main body in order to ob-
tain some horses which had been stolen from
them while at Pueblo. They had overtaken the
thieves and got all the horses except one. One
of the thieves had got to Fort Bridger and the
Battalion boys had decided to follow him and
get their animal.
After a short visit and exchange of views at
the ferrying place on the banks of the Green
River, the five pioneer brethren, accompanied
by William H. Walker, one of the 13 Battal-
ion boys who had learned that his wife was
coming on with the next company of saints,
91
started on their eastward journey
with their light wagon, while Pres-
ident Young and his companions,
accompanied by the 12 Battalion
boys, started for the pioneer camp,
three and one-half miles down the
river.
While President Young and his
companions were gone to the ferry
some of the brethren gathered
for public worship in the pioneer
camp under the presidency of the
bishops.
President Young and those who
had traveled with him arrived in
the pioneer camp, together with
the 12 Battalion brethren, about
2 p.m. and formed into line. After
President Young had spoken a few
words, the camp, on motion of
President Young, gave three cheers
for the Battalion men and President
Young proposed “Glory to God” for
their safe return, all crying out: Addison Everett
“Hosannah. Hosannah. Hosannah. Oct. 10, 1805, Wallkill, New York —
Give Glory to God and the Lamb,
Jan. 12, 1885, St. George, Utah
Amenn.” The Battalion men were
then dismissed to receive the
congratulations of the camp. Following are the buttes perfectly destitute of vegetation, and
names of the twelve Battalion boys who joined on the sides could be seen from the camp
the pioneer camp: Sergeant Thomas H. S. Wil- two caves which were probably inhabited by
liams, John Buchanan, Allen Hampton, Jesse bears.
J. Terrill, Francillo Durfee, Andrew J. Shupe, During the afternoon one of Brother Crow’s
Samuel Gould, Benjamin Roberts, James oxen was found to be poisoned through eating
Oakey, George S. Clark, Thomas Bingham, some kind of a weed and was very swollen. It
and William W. Casto. The Battalion brethren was dead when found.
stopped with the pioneers overnight. Several traders passed the pioneer camp
In the conversation which took place be- after dark.
tween the pioneers and these brethren int was The loss of the five and the addition of
learned that a number of Battalion brethren the twelve men to the pioneer camp made
had died in Pueblo during the winter, among another change. The camp now consisted of
them Mervin Blanchard, who drove a team for 159 souls, including the men, women, and
Elder Woodruff the previous summer. children.
About 4 p.m. President Young, Heber C. There was no celebration by the camp, but
Kimball, Willard Richards, Wilford Woodruff, George A. Smith made some ice cream from
George A. Smith, Orson Pratt, and Thomas snow in a neighboring bank, which he mixed
Bullock met in Dr. Richards’ wagon, where a with sugar.
letter from Amasa M. Lyman brought by the Addison Everett was one of the prominent
Battalion boys was read, and also one from members of the pioneer company. Being a
Captain James Brown, commander of the good carpenter he proved to be very useful,
stick detachment of the Mormon Battalion. as much depended on his skill in repairing
Comments were made on the letters. wagons, etc. He later held a number of prom-
Of the pioneers, Brother William Clayton, inent positions in Salt Lake City, and acted as
Howard Egan, and John S. Fowler were very bishop of the Eighth Ward of Salt Lake City for
sick, but the remainder of the brethren were a number of years. He was sent as a pioneer to
getting better. The day was warm and clear St. George in 1861, where he did much toward
with a west breeze blowing. the settlement of that part of the state, and
President Young counseled with Elder Sam- where he remained until his death. He was
uel Brannan, making suggestions as to what born in Wallkill, Orange County, New York,
he thought best for the people in California. October 10, 1805, and was among the first to
The pioneers saw on the opposite side of join the Church in the city of New York. He
the Green River a range of singular sandy died in St. George, Utah, January 12, 1885.
92
Day 92 • Monday, July 5
The morning was fine and clear in the
pioneer camp on the Green River. A few of
the brethren were still sick, though generally
improving.
The pioneers left their campground at 8
a.m., and, following the right bank of the river,
traveled three and a half miles. There they
made a short halt and watered their animals,
after which they left the Green River for good
and traveled in a southwesterly direction.
They gradually ascended the bluffs, or a steep,
pebbly hill to a level tableland, then traveled
southwest around a steep bluff on the left of
the road and continued over a gently undulat-
ing, sandy plain, destitute of grass and water
for sixteen and a half miles.
There was one place in the road where they
might have saved a crook of nearly a mile by
digging down a bank, which probably would
have detained them for about 20 minutes, but
it was not discovered until most of the wagons
had passed over. At this place the pioneers
descended a hill into a valley and soon came
to the steep bank of a dry creek, on which they
ascended a quarter of a mile and then traveled
down the opposite side. President Young or-
dered a new and better road to be made across
the hill in order to avoid traveling around it,
which was done.
On the highlands, between Green River
and Black’s Fork, the pioneers found neither
feed nor water, the country being similar
to that over which they had passed for 200
miles. It consisted of a sandy desert covered
with sagebrush. The grass was generally good
along the streams. Most of the day the weather
was very hot and the roads dusty; yet, toward
night, a hard shower of rain was seen toward
the mountains and there was some wind. In
this part of the country the rainfall is, as a
rule, heavy in the mountains, while not much
moisture falls in the valleys and plains.
Many prickly pears in flower were seen,
some of them red and others yellow.
While journeying over the highlands, the
pioneers had a very good view of the Bear
River Mountains far to the southwest, their
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
summits being capped with snow.
They found the land over which
they traveled somewhat rolling,
destitute of grass and several places
with very steep pitches.
At 4:45 p.m. the pioneers
descended a hill to the left bank fo
Black’s Fork, where they formed
their encampment for the night,
about three and a half miles east
of the present Granger station on
the Union Pacific railroad, having
traveled 20 miles, the last sixteen
and a half miles without sight of
water. Black’s Fork at this place was
about six rods wide, with a very
swift, though not very deep current;
the water was somewhat roily. The
bottoms on each side were green
with grass, though not very fertile.
Black’s Fork of the Green River is in
the southwest corner of Wyoming.
Most of the mountain streams
of any size had at this time of the Appleton M. Harmon
year a muddy appearance, although May 29, 1820, Coneant, Pennsylvania
when low the water in them was
— Fall of 1876, Holden, Utah
usually very clear. Elder Pratt men-
tions the place of the encampment
as one of the best the pioneers had had on the the one who constructed the iron and wheel
road. Some scrubby trees were growing on the work and attached it onto the wagon wheel.
banks of the stream, including plenty of tallow Mr. Harmon was later one of those sent to
weed, but no large timber. settle Dixie, or southern Utah, and he built
Orson Pratt writes: “Several of the camp while there the woolen mills at Washington,
have for the last few days been affected with Utah. He was born in Coneant, Erie County,
fever, probably arising from the clouds of dust Pennsylvania, May 29, 1820, and died in
which envelopes the whole camp when in Holden, Millard County, Utah, in 1876 or
motion—and also by the sudden changes, for 1877. The Harmon block in Salt Lake City is
during the day it is exceedingly warm, while named for him, his youngest son owning it
the snowy mountains which surround us on after him.
all sides render the air cold and uncomfort- From all accounts, Mr. Harmon was a large
able during the absence of the sun.” and powerful man, and in this his sons have
The portrait published today is of Appleton taken after him, one of them being Appleton S.
M. Harmon, a skilled machinist of the pioneer Harmon, the giant drum major of the Liberal
camp. Reference is frequently made to the drum corps in Salt Lake City of some years
famous odometer by which the pioneers com- ago, and who died in Millard County in the fall
puted the distances. It was invented by Wil- of 1896.
liam Clayton, but Appleton M. Harmon was
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 93 • Tuesday, July 6
The morning was very pleasant in the
pioneer camp on Black’s Fork. The pioneers
gathered up their teams and started on their
journey at 7:40 a.m., traveling first through
a gully and then in a westerly direction for
about three miles and a half. They crossed
Ham’s Fork at 9 a.m., on the banks of which
some willows and grass grew. Ham’s Ford was
described as a rapid stream about three rods
wide and two feet deep, and presented a good
place to camp, there being an abundance of
high bunchgrass on the banks of the stream.
After crossing Ham’s Fork, the pioneers
traveled up a hill toward some high bluffs,
seeing on the road many dog daisies and
beautiful red flowers. They passed around
one of the bluffs in the form of a semicircle,
and, leaving said bluff on their left, they
descended once more to the bottom, traveling
in a straight line about two miles until they
reached Black’s Fork, which they now crossed
in a slanting direction, the river here being
about eight rods wide. Here they found plenty
of artemesia (sagebrush).
Continuing the journey, the pioneers then
left Black’s Fork and traveled southwest over a
tolerably good road with many pitches, caused
by heavy rains washing the land, which was
generally barren. They continued on for 11
miles, when they crossed a small creek about
two feet wide, but found no grass.
At 4 p.m. the pioneers crossed back over
Black’s Fork, in which the depth of the water
was about the same as below, and formed
their encampment at 5 p.m. on the left or west
bank, having traveled 18¼ miles. At this place
there were some fine specimens of the wild
flax which grew all around. It was considered
equal to any cultivated flax, bearing a delicate
blue flower. There was also an abundance of
the rich bunchgrass and willows in the neigh-
borhood of the river bank and many wild
93
currants. The prairies were covered
with beautiful flowers of various
colors, chiefly blue, red and yellow,
which had a rich appearance and
would serve to adorn an eastern
flower garden. The grass here was
tolerably good, including bluegrass
and many thistles.
Without stopping at noon, the
pioneers traveled that day 18½
miles, most of the way over a hard,
gravelly road. Dr. Willard Richards
was sick in his wagon; all the rest of
the sick were better.
Near their night encampment
there were four or five cottonwood
trees. A number of fish, by some
called salmon trout, weighing from
one to 10 pounds, were caught with
hooks in the different streams on
the west side of the South Pass.
The day was warm, windy and
dusty, and while traveling men,
beasts, harnesses and wagons were John S. Higbee
covered with dust. No noon halt March 7, 1804, Fort Township, Claremont
was made. The face of the country
County, Ohio — Nov. 1, 1876, Toquerville, Utah
over which the pioneers traveled
that day was, as usual, barren and
sandy and covered with sagebrush, but was not succeeded in procuring. His only surviv-
relieved occasionally by a sprinkling of flow- ing stepson was Joseph Nye of Nephi, who
ers, some of them very beautiful. was alive in 1897.
For several days no game to speak of had Mr. Summe was born in Randolph County,
been seen except occasionally an antelope, North Carolina, August 22, 1802. His courage
one of which was killed the day before. was fully tested during the Black Hawk War,
John S. Hibbee’s portrait is given with in which he took an active part. In 1851
today’s recital. He was captain of the eleventh Mr. Summe was sent to California to form a
10 in the pioneer band. He was born in Fort settlement, and he went to Mountain Springs
Township, Claremont County, Ohio, March 7, to work in the lead mines. He returned to Utah
1804, and died in Toquerville, Utah, Novem- in 1857 and continued to pioneer the south-
ber 1, 1876. ern counties. He died in Salt Lake City, Utah,
Gilbroid (or Gilbert) Summe is one of the Ausust 4, 1871.
pioneers whose photographs The Tribune has
94
Day 94 • Wednesday, July 7
A strong wind was blowing from the north-
west in the morning in the pioneer camp on
Black’s Fork. In gathering up the teams, the
pioneers saw a large amount of beautiful flax,
currents, etc.
They proceeded on their journey at 7:35
a.m., going in a southwesterly direction, and,
after traveling 2½ miles, forded Black’s Fork
once more. After traveling 2¾ miles farther,
they forded a stream (Smith’s Fork), about two
rods wide and two feet deep, with a very swift
current, also lined on its banks with bunch-
grass. They then ascended a hill, leaving some
bluffs on their right.
About 12 o’clock they halted for noon on
the banks of the last named stream (Smith’s
Fork), having traveled nine miles over pretty
rough roads. The grass was tolerably good at
this noon halt. Some of the wagons went on,
expecting to reach Bridger’s fort before they
halted.
The day was very windy and the dust raised
by the wind covered everything in the wagons.
At 1:40 p.m. the pioneers moved forward
again and found the road more even, though
in many places rendered bad by the cobble-
stones. After traveling 7½ miles, they arrived
at a point where they saw nine Indian lodges
erected on the south side of the road in a
beautiful vale and also some horses grazing.
Here the pioneers halted a while and found
Tim Goodale, one of the trappers who passed
them at the Platte ferry. There were not many
Indians at this place, but the few that were
there appeared to have a great many hand-
some ponies.
The pioneers continued on and after
fording four brooks (all channels of Black’s
Fork), having an average width of about a rod,
they arrived at Fort Bridger, which was proved
by the roadometer to be 397 miles from Fort
John. After halting a short time they went half
a mile beyond and formed their encampment
after crossing three more channels of Black’s
Fork, having traveled that afternoon 8¾ miles
and during the day 17¾ miles.
Near the fort they saw six more Indian
wickiups. Grass was very plentiful in this
neighborhood and much higher than gen-
erally seen farther east. The whole region of
country seemed filled with rapid streams all
bending their way to the principal fork. The
encampment of the pioneers was made in
a lovely vale where grass was plentiful and
knee-deep and the water very clear. Here
timber was also plentiful and the scenery
delightful.
Bridger’s fort, according to William Clay-
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
ton, was composed of two double
log houses, each about 40 feet long
and joined by a large ped for horses,
enclosed by pickets, about ten feet
high, constructed by placing poles
upright in the ground close togeth-
er. This gave the place the appear-
ance of a fort. There were several
Indian lodges close by and several
young children playing around the
doors. These Indians were said to
be the Snake Tribe, the Utahs or
Utes inhabiting a country beyond
the mountains.
The latitude of Fort Briger, ac-
cording to Orson Pratt’s observa-
tions, was 41 degrees 19 minutes
and 13 seconds, and its height
above the level of the sea 6,665 feet.
The distance from the south pass
was 109 miles.
The pioneers judged this part of
the country to be a very cold region
and little calculated for farming Joseph Egbert
purposes. To the west was a pretty March 10, 1818, Carlisle, Indiana
high mountain. Bridgers Bluff,
— May 24, 1898, Ogden, Utah
which appeared well covered with
timber. The country all around
looked bleak and cold. thief at the fort who had assisted in stealing
Orson Pratt, who traveled in advance of the twelve of their horses, but they had succeeded
company all day for the purpose of making in getting them all back but two. The man
observations, writes: “Two and a half miles of said his confederates had gone to Oregon. The
travel from our night encampment brought pioneers saw about a dozen traders’ lodges
me to the ford of Black’s Fork, where the water near the fort.
was about three feet deep. Two and three The pioneers in setting up their forges
quarters miles farther I crossed a branch began to prepare for the rough trip ahead of
of Black’s Fork (Smith’s Fork), about 35 feet them through the mountains. The valley of the
wide and 1½ feet deep. Eleven and a quarter Great Salt Lake was spoken of most unfavor-
miles from this I arrived on the right bank of ably, but, despite all adverse reports, Brigham
Black’s Fork. Nine Indian lodges stood a few Young had decided to penetrate and colonize
rods distant occupied by the families of the it, and Bridger was the last topping place
trappers and hunters who had taken squaws before the train would enter the defiles of the
for wives. Some few half breed children were mountains which terminated in the valley.
seen playing about their lodges. Bridger’s Joseph Egbert was a living pioneer in 1897.
trading post is situated half a mile due west His home was in Kaysville, Utah. Mr. Egbert
of these lodges on an island.” At these lodges was born in Carlisle, Sullivan County, Indiana,
Orson Pratt joined the main company. March 10, 1818. In the pioneer train he trav-
Wilford Woodruff, in describing the eled with Wilford Woodruff and Orson Pratt,
country around Fort Bridger, states that the and was one of those to enter the valley with
pioneers crossed a number of trout brooks in the advance company. He built the first house
which the water ran swift and clear, and there in Mill Creek, but soon afterward moved to
was a hard, bold gravelly bottom. The breth- Kaysville, where he erected the first two-story
ren caught several brook trout which Elder adobe house, a house which accommodated
Woodruff said was the first he had seen since many travelers on the road to Ogden prior to
he left England. 1889, when it was sold. Mr. Egbert died May
The whole region of country all upa and 24, 1898, in Ogden, Utah, and was held in the
down Black’s Fork was covered with grass highest esteem by his neighbors.
knee deep. The battalion boys found a horse
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 95 • Thursday, July 8
The morning was fine, with a high wind
blowing in the pioneer camp at Fort Bridger.
Ice had formed during the night, which, how-
ever, soon melted after the sun rose.
At 9 a.m. the thermometer stood at 60
degrees Fahrenheit, with a stiff wind.
The pioneers concluded to stop a day at
Fort Bridger to set wagon tires and attend to
other repair work. Some of the brethren went
to the fort and traded their rifles and some
clothing for buckskins.
Howard Egan traded off two rivels, one
belonging to Edson Whipple and the other
to George P. Billings, for 19 buckskins, three
elkskins, and some other articles for making
moccasins.
The pioneers found things generally
much higher in price at Fort Bridger than at
any other trading stations along the route.
Robes were $5 each, shirts $6 each, pants $6,
dressed skins $3, etc. At Ford Hall, dog skins
sold at 50 cents, buckskins at 75 cents, elk
skins at $1, shirts and pants at $1.50 each,
and robes at $2 each.
Several of the other brethren traded with
the French and Indians, but without much
success, as the brethren could not obtain
sufficient for their goods.
Presiden Young and Elder Heber C. Kimball
traded at the fort, buying hunting shirts, pan-
taloons, etc. Brother Kimball obtained 20 good
skins with which to cover his boys.
Several large speckled trout were caught
with a hook in the morning.
As soon as Wilfrod Woodruff had eaten his
breakfast, he rigged up his fishing rod, which
he had brought with him from England, fixed
his reel, line and artificial fly, and went to one
of the brooks close to the camp to try his luck
at fishing. The men at the fort said that there
were only a very few trout in the stream, but a
good may of the brethren already were at the
creeks with their rods trying their skill at fish-
ing, baited with fresh meat and grasshoppers,
but no one was catching any fish. Brother
Woodruff threw his fly into the water, it being
the first time that he ever tried the artificial fly
in America, or even saw it tried. He watched
it as it floated upon the water with as much
interest perhaps as Franklin did his kite when
he was experimenting in drawing lightning
from the sky, and, as Franklin received great
joy when he saw the lightning descend on his
kite string, so was Brother Woodruff delighted
when he saw the nimble trout bite at his line
and carry it down stream. He soon, however,
drew the fish ashore. Elder Woodruff spent
95
two or three hours fishing during
the evening and morning and
caught twelve fish in all. One-half
of these weighed three-quarters of a
pound each, while all the rest of the
camp did not catch three pounds in
all. This Brother Woodruff consid-
ered proof that the artificial fly was
by far the best to fish with.
In the afternoon Elder Woodruff
went to Bridger’s house and traded
off his flintlock rifle for four buffalo
robes, which were large, nice and
well dressed. He valued the gun at
$20 and the robes at $5 each.
During the day the blacksmiths
of the clamp were busily engaged
setting wagon tires, shoeing horses,
etc., and preparing for a rough
mountainous road in the south-
westerly direction toward the Great
Salt Lake.
Sergeant Williams of the bat-
talion seized a horse belonging Lyman Curtis
to Tim Goodale for a mule stolen Jan. 21, 1812, New Salem, Massachusetts
by one of his men at Pueblo, and
— Aug. 6, 1898, Salem, Utah
gave a receipt to Goodale for the
same, thus settling the business,
leaving Goodale to recover from his men. Mr. County, Massachusetts, January 21, 1812.
Goodale seemed very anxious that no other In 1834 he joined the Church at Millford,
man should make a demand on him in this Michigan. From there he, in company with
connection, so the receipt satisfied him. several other followers, migrated to Salt
Willard Richards dictated a letter to Elder Creek, Missouri, where he became a member
Amas M. Lyman, which was approved by of Zion’s Camp. With them he was driven
President Young and Elder Heber C. Kimball. from Missouri to Illinois, and from Illinois to
A letter also was written to Robert Campbell Winter Quarters.
at Winter Quarters, giving the results of the He left Winter Quarters in the spring of
pioneer journey so far, and also news from 1847, with the pioneers, for Utah, and arrived
the Mormon Battalion, San Francisco Bay, in Salt Lake on July 22 of the same year. Here
etc., which Dr. Richards sent with Colonel he assisted in planting the first crops, and, in
Findley, a trapper, who was going to the States. August, started to Winter Quarters for provi-
Thomas Bullock also made a copy of Hastings’ sion and to bring out his family.
directions from Fort Bridger to the settlements Soon after his second arrival at Salt Lake
in California, and a map of the route from one Valley, he was sent by Brigham Young to St.
which he (Elder Bullock) had copied from the George to survey and oversee the construc-
originals belonging to Brother Brannan. tion of a canal. After completing this work,
A council was held in the evening, at which he moved to Payson, where he lived for some
a difficulty was settled between George Mills years, and then to Salem, where he was a most
and Andrew Gibbon; it was decided that respected citizen.
Thomas Williams and Samuel Brannan would Mr. Curtis stands at the head of a numer-
return to Fort Bridger and go east to meet Cap- ous posterity, as he, at the time of his death,
tain James Brown’s company from Pueblo. was the father of 12 children, 83 grandchil-
It was decided by vote that the pioneers dren, 28 great-grandchildren, and three
should continue their journey in the morning. great-great-grandchildren. He died August 6,
Lyman Curtis, one of the 27 known surviv- 1898, in Salem, Utah County, Utah.
ing members of Brigham Young’s company
in 1897, was born in New Salem, Frankland
96
Day 96 • Friday, July 9
Samuel Brannan, Thomas G. Williams of
the battalion and a few others left the pioneer
camp at Fort Bridger to travel east toward the
South Pass to meet the sick detachment of the
Mormon Battalion. The rest of the battalion
boys continued westward with the pioneers.
The pioneers, after taking leave of the
brethren going east, resumed the journey at 8
a.m., taking Mr. Hastings’ new route leading
toward the Bay of San Francisco. This route
was seen dimly, as only a few wagons had
passed over it the previous season. Following
this route, the pioneers traveled in a south-
westerly direction, leaving the so-called Bridg-
er’s buttes on their right. Passing through the
country now (1934) included in the Wilburn
Ward, they struck the creek known as Three-
Mile Creek south of the buttes, and reached
the spring in which Three-Mile Creek has its
source, after traveling six and a quarter miles
from Fort Bridger. Here they halted for a while
to rest their teams.
In traveling from Fort Bridger up the slope
the pioneers saw many gooseberries, butter-
cups, willows, roses, meadow dews, pink and
blue flowers and also several beds of mint.
They also passed several drifts of snow in the
heads of the hollows.
When the pioneers resumed their journey
from Fort Bridger, taking the Hastings route,
they left the Oregon Trail, which from Fort
Bridger bore north of west toward Fort Hall.
The Hastings route (which the pioneers
followed) led a little south of the west toward
the southern extremity of the Great Salt Lake.
Erastus Snow writes: “Fortunately for us a par-
ty of emigrants bound for California passed
this way last fall, though their trail in many
places is scarcely discernible.”
Continuing their journey from their noon
halt at the spring, the pioneers soon began
to ascend a long, steep hill, and when they
reached the top they were about eight miles
from Fort Briger. On their way up they passed
to the right of another small butte until they
reached a high land now known as the Pied-
mont Bench.
On top of this ridge Orson Pratt made
observations and found the latitude to be 41
degrees 16 minutes 11 seconds and seven and
one-half miles from Fort Bridger. From this
point the dim road led over a level tableland
for two or three miles and then descended a
very steep hill, where the brethren had to lock
their wagon wheels. After traveling five and a
half miles from the point where Brother Pratt
took the latitude, and after descending four
or five hundred feet, the pioneers crossed a
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
stream (Muddy Fork) about 15 feet
wide and one and one-half feet
deep, in which, however, in spite of
its name, the water was quite clear.
The place where the pioneers
crossed the Muddy was near what
later became known as Byrnes
Crossing and they camped in what
is now (1934) the southeast quarter
of section 16, township 15 north,
range 117 east, sixth principal me-
ridian, on the left or west bank of
the stream, about a mile and a half
southwest of what is now (1934)
called Cold Springs (sometimes
called Dog Springs). The pioneers
had traveled six and three-quar-
ter miles since the noon halt and
during the day 13 miles.
This encampment was made
about 3 p.m. on the left bank of the
Muddy, 13 miles from Bridger’s
fort. The grass at this place was
good, there being a quantity of good Philo Johnson
bunchgrass, which much resembled Dec. 6, 1815, Newtown, Connecticut —
wheat, having heads and growing
April 3, 1895, Payson, Utah
nearly as tall as wheat. The animals
were very fond of that grass. The
pioneers had discovered now and then a little From the information the pioneers received
of this kind of grass on the Sweetwater, but from the trappers and by the map and guides
as they continued their journey westward, that were carried, it was known that the Salt
it increased in quantity. There was another Lake Valley was not far distant, and a short
species of tender grass growing in the locality time would see the arrival in “the promised
of which the animals of the pioneers were land” which held all their hope for the future.
very fond. During the day the pioneers noticed The high mountains walling in the valleys
many low and scrubby cedars on each side of of the future Utah were to be seen to the
the road. southwest, many snow-capped peaks brightly
A short distance from where they encamp- shining in the summer sun and serving as a
ed, Albert Carrington found a large quantity of beacon to attract the westbound pioneers.
grit stone of excellent quality for grindstones Philo Johnson, one of the pioneers, was
and brought five specimens into the camp. born December 6, 1815, in Newtown, Fairfield
Muddy Fork, which at the place where the County, Connecticut. He went from there to
pioneers cross was 12 wide, winds around Nauvoo, Hancock County, Illinois, in the year
the hills to the north of Fort Bridger, forms a 1842. He worked on the Nauvoo Temple one
junction with Black’s Fork and thus flows into year, and then carried on the hatters’ business
Green River. in that city five years, and in the year 1846 he
During the day a few cases of mountain came to Council Bluffs. In the spring of 1847
fever broke out in the camp; among those he joined the pioneers and came west. He
attached was William Carter. Elder Wilford drove the wagon that had the odometer on it,
Woodruff was also stricken and had to spend measuring the whole distance to Salt Lake,
the day in his wagon suffering with dis- and kept the machine in repair. He built many
tressing pain in his head, back, joint bones, rooms in the “Old Ford,” as he was a mason
marrow and all through his system; the pain by trade. He moved to Payson in 1857 and
was attended with cold chills and hot flushes commenced the hatters’ trade. He carried on
throughout his body. a shop for 25 years in Pason and made thou-
The day had been windy, warm and dusty, sands of hats. He died at the age of 81 years,
but the evening was delightful and some of April 3, 1895.
the brethren sang hymns for President Young.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 97 • Saturday, July 10
In the morning the weather was warm in
the pioneer camp on the Muddy. A tolerably
high wind was blowing.
The pioneers left their encampment on the
Muddy at 8 a.m., and followed that stream in
a southwesterly direction for a short distance
over a ridge and down into a valley through
which a small creek flowed in a northerly di-
rection. After crossing this creek the pioneers
proceeded up what is now called Soda Springs
Hollow and passed a small spring on the left
of the road which they called Red Mineral
Spring, from the extreme redness of the soil
out of which it issued. From this spring the
road wound around the foot of mountains
westward, gradually ascending for some
distance until finally it reached the summit
of a high ridge between the two branches of
Muddy Fork.
On arriving at the west side of the ridge,
two and half miles from the last mentioned
spring, the pioneers came to a very steep,
rough place which they had to descend; they
found it necessary to halt and fix the road.
The route led over huge rocks, where there
was barely enough room for a wagon to get
down, but by labor it was soon made passable.
A little farther the brethren had to dig out
a place for the wagons to pass between the
mountains.
The pioneers, after passing another spring,
arrived on the bottom land. This place is now
known as Spring Hollow, also called Grass
Hollow. Near the foot of the hill mentioned
the pioneers came upon a narrow, level valley
from thirty to forty rods wide. There was some
water in places in the valley or canyon (now
known as Pioneer Hollow), which proceed-
ed principally from mineral springs. The
pioneers struck this little creek about a mile
south of where Spring Valley Station on the
Union Pacific Railroad now stands. From this
the ridge they had descended between three
and four hundred feet. Turning to the left, or
nearly south, through a beautiful low bottom
filled with grass, pioneers proceeded up a
hollow or canyon or narrow valley in a south-
westerly direction , and at 1:45 p.m. they halt-
ed for noon three miles from the last named
ridge after traveling nine miles. This camping
place was 21 miles from Fort Bridger.
The noon halt was made opposite what
Thomas Bullock called Gunpowder Springs, in
which the water bubbled up clear but tasted
like gunpowder and smelled like rotten eggs.
After halting for noon about half an hour,
the pioneers continued the journey. After trav-
eling three and one-quarter miles from their
noon encampment, they passed over a small
hill and then began to ascend the dividing
97
ridge by a zigzag road.
From Spring Hollow the road
ascended gradually for a while
and then quite abruptly until the
dividing ridge was reached between
the waters flowing into the Gulf of
California and those flowing into
the Great Salt Lake or branches of
Muddy Fork on the east and branch-
es of Bear River on the west. This
summit was the eastern rim of the
Great Interior Basin. This mountain
was very high and the ascent steep,
rendering it necessary to make a
winding road to gain the summit.
In the early part of this after-
noon journey the pioneers passed
within one mile east of the present
Ashton Station on the Union Pacific
Railroad. On reaching the sum-
mit, Orson Pratt made his usual
observation and found the altitude
to be 7,700 feet above the level of
the sea, or 615 feet higher than the John H. Tippets
South Pass. From this summit the Sept. 5, 1810, Rockingham County,
pioneers commenced descending
New Hampshire — Feb. 14, 1890,
very abruptly at first and then more
gradually, following a ravine into
Farmington, Utah
the narrow valley, and passing with-
in half a mile of where Altamont, a station on Utah. He gave a better account of the country
the Union Pacific Railroad, is now situated at ahead than any of the others who had been
the west end of a tunnel over a mile long. The interviewed by the pioneers. He said it was
descent was very steep, and the brethren had about 75 miles to his palace on the Weber. Mr.
to lock wheels for half a mile. Goodyear, learning that the Oregon emigrants
Having reached the foot of the hills, the had taken the northern route, decided to start
pioneers traveled in a southwesterly direc- toward that road to meet them for the purpose
tion down the narrow valley, which is now of trade. Mr. Goodyear spoke of three roads
traversed by the Union Pacific Railroad, until leading to the Great Salt Lake. The subject was
Stow Creek was reached. brought up concerning the emigrant company
Continuing the ascent of a hill, they at last (the Donner Party), which had perished in the
reached the highest point and then descend- Sierra Nevada Mountains the previous winter.
ed through sagebrush between high bluffs, The portrait today is that of John H. Tip-
crossed a shallow creek (Sulphur Creek), pets, one of the original pioneer company who
about ten feet wide, and camped on the seat started from Winter Quarters. At Fort Laramie
bank at 7:45 p.m., having traveled during the Mr. Tippets was one of the men sent to Pueblo
day 18 miles, nine in the forenoon and nine in to meet the detachment of the Mormon Battal-
the afternoon. ion and the Mississippi emigrants, and was,
While Orson Pratt was wandering about therefore, traveling with that company 87
one of the neighboring hills, he discovered years ago today and was several days behind
smoke arising from a camp two mile away, the pioneers, which caused his arrival in the
and, on reporting it to the pioneers, a party valley to be delayed until July 29, 1847. He
was sent out to investigate, but instead of only stayed in the valley a month, and then
Indians, as they expected, they met a small returned to Winter Quarters. He came back
party form the bay of San Francisco o their to Salt Lake City, September 25, 1848, and
easy to the states, led by a man named Craig, lived in the city until 1864, when he moved
and accompanied by Miles Goodyear. The to Farmington, Davis County, Utah. He was
latter was a mountaineer, who had started born in Rockingham County, New Hampshire,
a farm on the Weber River, in the Salt Lake September 5, 1810, and died in Farmington,
Valley, on the present side of Ogden. He was, February 14, 1890.
as far as is known, the pioneer farmer of
98 Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847

Day 98 • Sunday, July 11

The morning was clear, calm and pleas-
ant in the pioneer camp on Sulphur Creek,
although it had been cold during the night and
considerable ice had formed on the water. The
pioneers remained in camp all day.
Mr. Craig and three others of the California
company (Missourians) proceeded on their
journey toward the States.
Before starting for Bear River, however,
Miles Goodyear again visited the pioneer
camp and gave a very favorable account of
his location on the Weber River (the present
side of Ogden, Utah), where he had a garden
planted with all kinds of vegetables. After
conversing some time with Presiden Young,
Mr. Goodyear went out with Brothers Jesse
C. Little, Joseph Matthews, John Brown,
Porter Rockwell, and others to show them
a new and nearer road to the valley of the
Great Salt Lake. On their return the brethren
represented it as being bad enough, but they
believed that it led too far out for their course
for them to be tempted to try it. It was thought
Goodyear wanted to have a road made to his
place for somewhat selfish purposes, and it
was decided by the leaders that it lay too far to
the north. By this time some of the brethren
in camp were getting discouraged about the
looks of the country, while others believed
Orson F. Whitney, Jan. 20, 1830, Kirtland, Ohio — July 31, 1884, Salt Lake City,
that the pioneers would succeed in finding
Utah; Horace K. Whitney, July 25, 1823, Kirtland, Ohio — Nov. 22, 1884,
a place where the saints could make a new
home. Salt Lake City, Utah
In the morning President Young, Heber
C. Kimball and William Clayton walked on Thomas Bullock, in describing the sur- July 22, 1847. Horace, the elder, was born in
the mountain east of the pioneer camp, from roundings of the pioneer camp on Sulfur Kirtland, Ohio, July 25, 1823. He was given
whence they had a pleasing view of the sur- Creek, writes: “Here are pure water springs, an excellent education and was one of the few
rounding valley which they judged to be about a creek, a sulfur spring and a pitchy or men among the pioneers who were adept in
ten miles wide. There was an abundance of greasy spring within one and a half miles of Latin and Greek. He also had studied Hebrew
timber on the mountains south and southwest the camp. It appears as if nature itself had with Joseph Smith in Nauvoo and had had
and beyond that plenty of snow. At the foot separated her different productions for the some experience in the office of the Nauvoo
they discovered a very strong sulfur spring a especial use of the persecuted saints on their Neighbor as proofreader. In 1850 he assisted
short distance from camp. The surface of the journey. As I lay in my wagon sick I overheard in printing the first number of the Deseret
water in this spring was covered with flour several of the brethren murmuring about the News. He aided his father as tithing clerk and
and sulfur, and where it oozed from the rocks face of the country, although it is very evident was one of the first school teachers in the
it was perfectly black. The water in the creek to the most careless observer that it is growing valley, holding forth in a small building on the
showed sulfur very clearly and smelled badly. richer and richer every day; grass grows luxu- north bank of City Creek, near the junction
During the day some of the brethren also riantly; cedars are beginning to flourish; pines of Main and North Temple Streets. He also
discovered an oil spring about a mile to the are seen on the mountains and cottonwood was one of the early members of the Deseret
south. The substance which rose out of the trees on the river banks. Flowers are getting Dramatic Association, but later left the stage
ground resembled tar and was very oily. Some very numerous, herbage is richer all over the and played in the orchestra, being a proficient
of the brethren oiled their gunstocks with it, country and the artemisia is disappearing.” performer on the flute. He was a clerk in Pres-
and also their house; others filled their tar There were several new cases of sickness in ident Young’s and Taylor’s offices many years
buckets and were very sanguine that it would the pioneer camp every day for several days prior to his death, which occurred November
answer well to grease wagons. In the opinion past, some of them quite severe, but those 22, 1884. Horace K was the father of the his-
of Albert Carrington, the tar or bituminous attacked generally did not suffer more than torian Orson F. Whitney, and also Horace G.
pitch contained about 87 percent carbon. It two or three days. Whitney of Salt Lake City.
burned bright like oil. Elder Clayton remarks Newell Kimball Whitney, the second bishop Orson K. Whiney was married, but had
that it was somewhat singular to find such a of the Church, divided his family at Winter no children. He was born in Kirtland, Ohio,
great contrast of substances within so short a Quarters, sending his two sons, Horace K. and January 20, 1830, and died in Salt Lake City
distance. Here was pure water, sulfur and oily Orson K., westward with the pioneers, and July 31, 1884. He lived a daring and adventur-
tar within a mile of each other, and a matter of remaining himself with the other portion at ous life, a large part of which was spent on the
curiosity all around for the contemplation of Winter Quarters. The two brothers arrived frontier, and his name occurs in the history of
the curious. in Salt Lake Valley with the main body on the frequent Indian expeditions of early days.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 99 • Monday, July 12
The morning was cloudy, but cool, in the
pioneer camp on Sulfur Creek.
The pioneers pursued their journey at 7:15
a.m., taking the right hand fork of the road
down Sulfur Creek, which was represented
as being the nearest. After traveling 1¼ miles
they came to a low hill, narrow but very steep
on both sides. Crossing this hill and going a
quarter of a mile farther they reached Bear
River, 1¾ miles from their previous night’s
encampment, and forded the same. Bear River
is described by the pioneers as a very rapid
stream about six rods wide and two feet deep,
the bottom covered with large cobblestones
and rounded boulders, the water clear an the
banks lined with willows and a little timber;
there was also good grass, many strawberry
vines, and the soil looked pretty good. The
height of the Bear River ford was 6,936 feet
above sea level.
About half a mile beyond the Bear River
ford the road again forked and the pioneers
took the right hand road., which bore a few
degrees south of west and led over another
ridge. From that ridge the company descend-
ed into and traveled up a beautiful narrow,
but fertile bottom covered with grass, but no
timber.
Four and three-quarters of a mile beyond
Bear River, the pioneers passed a small spring
of good, clear, cold water, and soon after they
struck a creek (Coyote Creek) in which the wa-
ter ran westward into Yellow Creek. After fol-
lowing Coyote Creek for some distance, they
reached a point immediately east of a curious
natural formation which the pioneers called
Pudding Rock, but which now is known as
the Needles. Here the noon halt was made at
11:50 a.m. in an open valley and near Coyote
Creek, the camp having traveled that forenoon
9¾ miles. There were scarcely any wagon
tracks to be seen between Bear River and this
point, only a few of Hasting’s company having
come this route the year before.
Shortly before reaching this camping place
President Young was taken sick with moun-
tain fever and decided to rest a short time,
and a few of the brethren with their wagons
remained with him.
After restying two hours, the pioneers
moved on again, except those traveling with
President Young and Elder Kimball’s wagons,
these brethren having concluded to remain in
camp because of the president’s illness.
The rest of the company proceeded down
the creek now known as Coyote Creek (about
10 miles southwest of Evanston, Wyoming).
They followed said creek about 1½ miles to
within a short distance from where it empties
into Yellow Creek, a tributary of the Bear
River. At the mouth of the little canion they
crossed Coyote Creek and then turned to the
left, and just before crossing Yellow Creek
99
they also crossed what is now the
boundary line between Wyoming
and Utah. Having crossed the valley
which is drained by Yellow Creek,
they ascended a hill, and, traveling
westward, crossed a ridge, from the
top of which they had a beautiful
and extensive view of the Echo Can-
yon country lying westward.
Following a ravine leading into
Echo Canyon, they encamped for
the night at 6 p.m., about a quarter
of a mile east of what is known as
Cache Cave (also Reddin’s Cave).
Here, on a small creek and a good
spring they made their night
encampment, after traveling that
afternoon 6¾ miles and during the
day 16½ miles.
At the camping ground there
was an abundance of grass and the
country appeared to grow still rich-
er as they proceeded west, but very
mountainous. This country also Ammon Tunis Rappleye
abounded with springs. There were 1807, New York State — Dec. 25, 1883,
many antelope on these mountains
Kanosh, Utah
and the country was lovely enough,
but destitute of timber.
About a quarter mile west from camp was outer side of the roof were several swallows’
a cave in the rock about 30 feet long, 15 feet nests. President Young did not overtake us
wide, and from 4 to 6 feet high. There were tonight.”
many martins at the entrance and on observ- Ammon Tunis Rappleye was one of the
ing closely could be seen myriads of small original company, being a member of the
bugs. It was supposed from appearances that fourth ten, of which Luke S. Johnson was
there was some property cached in the cave. captain. He was prominently identified with
Soon after the pioneers camped, they had the early settlements of Utah and was a well
a light shower, accompanied by thunder. This knowm man of Millard County until his death,
country evidently lacked rain; even the grass which occurred in Kanosh, Utah, December
appeared parched. 25, 1883. He was born in the state of New
Orson Pratt describes the afternoon travel York in 1807.
as follows: “We continued down the ravine An amusing incident occurred in 1903,
but a short distance, where Coyote Creek when the writer of this article participated in
empties its waters into a small tributary of an outing of the old folks of Salt Lake City to
Bear River (Yellow Creek), which we crossed, American Fork. An elderly man turned up in
and again began to ascend for some distance, the camp claiming to be one of the original
when we crossed another ridge and descend- pioneers of Utah. He was introduced to me,
ed rather abruptly at first, but afterward claiming that his name was Rappleye. I
more gradually into another ravine, at the immediately grasped his hand firmly and said
head of which was a spring of cold water. We looking him straight in the face: “Oh, how glad
continued descending this ravine until toward I am to meet one of the pioneers resurrected
evening, when we encamped at the foot of a from the dead. It is well know that you died
ledge of rocks on the right. Here is the mouth in Kanosh ten years ago, and now that you
of a curious cave in the center of a course are resurrected, please allow me to introduce
sandstone fronting to the south and a little you to this splendid gathering of old people.
inclined from the perpendicular. The opening There must be dome of them who will recog-
resembles very much the doors attached to an nize you.” This took the wind ouf of his sail.
outdoor cellar, being about eight feet high and Instead of permitting me to introduce him, he
12 or 14 feet wide. We called it Reddin’s Cave, disappeared, adn we saw no more of him. This
a man by that name being one of the first in is only one of several instances where parties
our company who visited it. We went into have endeavored to pass themselves off for
this cave about 30 feet to where the entrance somebody else.
became quite small, and so we did not feel
disposed to penetrate it any further. On the
100
Day 100 • Tuesday, July 13
The weather was pleasant in the morn-
ing in the pioneer camp at the head of Echo
Canyon.
Another beautiful spring was discovered
a short distance from the camp. Thomas
Bullock, who had somewhat recovered from
his sickness, visited Cache Cave. The brethren
found about 50 swallows’ nests attached to
the roof of the cave, and upon colose inspec-
tion they found the cave swarming with bug.
Early in the morning two messengers (John
Brown and Joseph Matthews) were ent back
to visit President Young, the camp being un-
willing to move any farther until the president
should come up.
The barometer registered quite a fall since
leaving the Bear River, the thermometer
standing at 60½ degrees at 6:30 a.m.
The new messengers returned before noon,
accompanies by Heber C. Kimball and How-
ard Egan, who reported that President Young
was getting better, but that he did not think of
moving that day.
The brethren were called together by Heber
C. Kimball to consult as to what would be best
to do. A shower visited the camp and Elders
Kimball, Richards, Pratt, Woodruff, and Smith
took shelter in Dr. Willard Richards’ wagon
and held a consultation.
After a thunder storm had passed over,
the brethren met and it was decided that
Orson Pratt shjould take 23 wagons and 42
men and proceed on the journey westward,
and endeavor to find Mr. Reed’s route across
the mountains, for the pioneers had been in-
formed that it would be impracticable to pass
through Weber Canyon because of the depth
and rapidity of the water in the Weber River.
Elder Kimball reporte that President Young
was a little better this morning, but that last
evening he was insensible and raving. Colonel
Albert P. Rockwood was also very sick and
quite deranged.
About 3 p.m. Orson Pratt left the pioneer
encampment nesr Cache Cave with the men
who had been selected to go ahead and find
a road over the mountains. This advance
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
company of pioneers was divided
into two divisions, the first con-
taining seven wagons and 27 men,
making a total of 23 wagons (mostly
ox-teams) and 42 men in the whole
company, besides Brother Crow’s
family of women and children.
Following are the names of those
who went ahead in Elder Pratt’s
advance company to look out and
make a road: Orson Pratt, com-
mander; Stephen Markham, aid;
Orrin Porter Rockwell; Robert Crow;
John Brown; Joseph Matthews; Seth
Taft; Return Jackson Redden; Ben-
jamin B. Crow; Shadrach Roundy;
Gilbert Summe; Horace Thornton;
Nathaniel Fairbanks; John Crow;
Hans C. Hansen; Green Flake
(colored); Stephen Kelsey; Joseph
Egbert; Walter H. Crow; Levi Jack-
son; John S. Freeman; Walter Crow;
Lyman Curtis; Charles Burk; Robert
Thomas; Marcus B. Thorpe; George Charles Allen Burk
W. Therlkill; David Powell; Norman Sept. 2, 1823, Kirtland, Ohio —
Taylor; Charles D. Burnham; James
Feb. 26, 1888, Minersville, Utah
Chessney; Oscar Crosby (colored);
Alexander P. Chessley; John S.
Eldredge; Lewis B. Meyers; Hark Lay (colored); President Young’s encampment, accompanied
Elijah Newman; Francis Boggs; Levi Kendall; by George A. Smith.
and David Grant. During the day the hunters brought in 10
Orson Pratt’s advance company traveled antelope; they had brought 12 antelope into
down Red Fork (Echo Creek) about 8¾ miles camp the day previous. Up to that time they
and encamped in a place where the canyon had found but very little game. The day had
opens a little between Castle Rock and the been hot and very sultry and the mosquitoes
present Emery Station on the Union Pacific very troublesome.
Railroad. The pioneers fond but very little In the evening Willard Richards, Wilford
water in Echo Creek. The altitude of the en- Woodruff, and George A. Smith went out
campment was 6,070 feet above sea level. together into the hills and prayed before the
The main camp remained at the head of Lord for the recovery of President Young; they
Echo Canyon, while President Young and received a testimony that he would recover
those with him were still encamped near Pud- from that very hour.
ding Rocks, where the entire pioneer company The portrait with today’s recital is of Chrles
nooned on the 12th. Allen Burk, who was with Orson Pratt’s
Soon after the departur of Orson Pratt’s advance company. He was born in Kirtland,
advance company, Heber C. Kimball and How- Ohio, September 2, 1823, and died in Miners-
ard Egan left the main camp and returned to ville, Beaber County, Utah, February 26, 1888.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847 101

Day 101 • Wednesday, July 14

Eldter Orson Pratt’s advance company trav- climb to that height in
eled 6¾ miles in the forenoon and halted for the July sun and preach
noon at a place where Echo Canyon widens a sermon.
out sufficiently to make a good campground. In the main pioneer
This place was 60 miles from Fort Bridger. In camp near Cache Cave,
the afternoon the company traveled 6½ miles at the headd of Echo
farther down Echo Canyon, which brought Canyon, the day was
them to the junction of Red Fork (Echo Creek) very hot, with occasion-
and the Weber River, where they camped for ally a light breeze.
the night, after traveling during the day 13¼ In the forepart of the
miles. Orson Pratt writes: day Wilford Wood-
“We have been shut up in a narrow valley ruff and Barnabas L.
(Echo Canyon), which in some places is only Adams rode back about
from 10 to 12 rods wide, while upon each side seven miles to visit
the hills rise very abruptly from eight to 12 President Young at his
hundred feet, and the most of th distance we camp on Coyote Creek.
have been walld in by vertical and overhaul- They found him much
ing precipices of red pudding-stone, and also improved in health
red sandstone, dipping into the norhtwest in and quite cheerful, but
and angle of about 20 degrees (the valley of they also found Brother
the Red Fork ranging about southwest). These Albert P. Rockwood the
rocks were worked into many curious shapes, sickest man of all who
probably by the rains. had suffered illness in
“The country here is very mountainous in the pioneer company.
every direction. Red Fork (Echo Creek), toward Elder Woodruff tarried
the mouth, is a small stream about eight feet in President Young’s
across; it put into Weber’s Fork from the right camp until toward
bank. Weber’s Fork is here about 70 feet wide, evening, assisting the
from two to three feet deep; a rapid current, sick, and them returned
stony bottom, consisting of boulder; water to the main pioneer
Pulpit Rock by Moonlight
very clear; its course bearing west northwest. encampment. (from an engraving used in a Union Pacific
Height of the junction above the sea, 5,301 During the day sever- descriptive folder)
feet. al of the men went out
“The road has been quite rough, crossing hunting and brought
and recrossing the stream (Echo Creek) a great in several antelope. One or two new casses of which reminded them of the fifth law of the
number of times. There is some willow and sickness appeared in the amin camp, mostly camp.
aspen in the valley and upon the sidehills, and with fever, which was very severe on the first President Brigham Young’s rear company
some scrubby cedar upon the hills and rocks attack, generally rendering its victims deliri- remained encamped on Coyote Creek. How-
as usual.” ous for some hours and then leaving them in ard Egan, one f the men with the president,
As the overland passenger of today is a languid, weak condition. It appeared that writes: “Elder Wilford Woodruffand Barnabas
whirled through Echo Canyon he passes by a good dose of pills or medicine was good L. Adams chrome from the other camp to see
castles, crags, spires and towering columns to break the fever. The patient then needed the sick who were getting better. Brothers
in this strange locality, but foremost of the some kind of stimulant to brace his nerves Woodruf and Adams ate supper with Brother
landmarks was Pulpit Rock on Echo Creek, so and guard him against another attack. Diluted Kimball. Brother Woodruff is going to bring
named for its shape. Some writers of history spirits were found to be very good in this his carriage in the morning for President
have made the statement that it was so called disease after breaking up the fever. Young and Elder Rockwood to ride in, as they
on account of the fetch that Brigham Young In the evening a meeting of the brethren think they will be able to go ahead. I went on
preached his first sermon in Utah from this was called around Dr. Willard Richards’ to the top of a high mountain with Brothers
rock in July 1847. The absurdity of the state- wagon in the main camp, when it was voted to Heber C. Kimball, Ezra T. Benson and Lorenzo
ment is apparent when it is considered in the hitch up the teams and move the camp a short D. Young and offered our prayers to the Al-
light of truthful accounts, for when Brigham distance on the morrow. After the hord had mighty God in behalf of the sick and our dear
Young passed through Echo Canyon he was blown a number of the brethren sat around families.”
too ill to even notice the gradeur of the sur- their campfires as usual, when a shower of
round walls of the narrow defile, much less to rain came on and sent them to their wagons,
102
Day 102 • Thursday, July 15
Orson Pratt’s advance company resumed
the journey from the mouth of Echo Canyon,
where they had camped overnight, going
down the Weber River and crossing that
stream from its right to its left bank, near the
prescient site of Henefer, Summit County,
Utah. Continuing the journey on the west side
of the river, they encamped for the night on
the meadows immediately below the present
side of Henefer and about one mile above
what is now called the “Narrows” where the
Weber River enters a canyon. Orson Pratt
writes:
“We traveled about six miles, and encamp-
ed about one mile above the canyon, which
at the entrance is impassable for wagons.
The road, crossing the river to the right bank,
makes a circuit of about two miles, and enters
the canyon at the junction of a stream (Lost
Creek) putting in from the right bank, about
one-third as large as Weber’s Fork. I rode on
horseback, in company with John Brown,
about five miles down from our encampment,
and being convinced that this was the Ten
Mile Canyon which had been spoken of, we
returned to camp.
“In the meantime, Stephen Markham,
with one or two others, had gone up the river
on the right bank, in search of Reed’s Trail
across the mountains, leading down to the
southeastern shores of the Salt Lake. Brother
Brown and I also went in search, traveling
along the bluffs on the south. We soon struck
the trail, although so dimly seen that it only
now and then could be discerned; only a few
wagons having passed here one year ago, and
the grass having grown up, leaving scarcely a
trace. I followed this train about six miles up a
ravine, in a southerly direction, and returned
again into camp.
“There is some cottonwood timber fringing
the shores of Weber’s Fork, and also thick
clusters of willows, making very close thickets
for bears, which from their large tracks and
the large holes they have made in digging for
roots, must be very numerous.”
The morning was pleasant but cloudy in
the main pioneer camp near Cache Cave at
the head of Echo Canyon. Early in the morning
Wilford Woodruff left the main camp with
his carriage and horses to go after President
Young and Brother Albert P. Rockwood. It took
him two hours to drive seven miles for the
two sick brethren in the wagon, taking both of
them in.
Elder Woodruff found the president and
Brother Rockwood much improved in health
and they thought they could ride in Brother
Woodruff’s carriage, which was the easi-
est riding vehicle in the pioneer camp. All
the wagons, eight in number, also left the
encampment on Coyote Creek and drove to
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
the main camp near Cache
Cave. The ride seemed to
refresh the sick brethren.
At noon President Young,
Heber C. Kimball, and all
the rear wagons which had
remained behind with the
president joined the main
company of pioneers at the
encampment at the head of
Echo Canyon. The president
was much better and Broth-
er Rockwood’s condition
was also improved.
Soon after the arrival
of the president and his
company in the main camp,
orders were given for the
pioneers to harness up their
teams, and while doing so
a refreshing shower of rain
fell. Resuming the journey
about 1:30 p.m., the pio-
neers passed another spring Witch Rocks, Echo Canyon
of good water at the foot of
a high hill a short distance (after a sketch made 1853 by Fred Piercy.)
to the right of the road. At 3
p.m., having traveled four and a quarter miles small stream fed by the sprints of the valley,
and enjoyed two more pleasant showers, they which we had to cross every half mile. Toward
formed their encampment for the night at night, for about half a mile, the whole camp
the foot of some high red bluffs and near a seemed perfectly merged in a dense thicket
good stream of clear water a little to the left of of shrubbery and weeds, with a few trees,
the road, where the feed for the animals was which filled the valley. As we emerged from
also good. The evening was fine and pleasant the thicket we passed through some extensive
and several refreshing showers of rain in the beds of what mountaineers call wild wheat,
afternoon had purified the air. The encamp- small patches of which we have seen all
ment was about one mile above the site of the way from Bear River. On the right hand
the present Castle Rock Station on the Union form the thicket down to the creek is a range
Pacific Railroad. nearly perpendicular of conglomerate rock or
The brethren spent a pleasant evening on pudding stone of immense height. On the left
their good campground, on and near which of the bluffs, though equally high, were a little
were found seven varieties of pretty flowers. more sloping and covered with vegetation.
The Weber Valley, close to Echo Station on The extreme heights on either side of this
the Union Pacific Railroad, are the “Witches evening’s encampment are probably not less
Rocks,” which were presumably some of the than 1,500 feet and the valley about one-third
strange formations seen by Orson Pratt and of a mile wide on an average.”
his companions when they passed through William Clayton writes:
the canyons. These rocks were first sketched “There was a very singular echo in this
by Fred Piercy in 1853 and, as he humorous- ravine, the rattling of wagons resembled
ly said in his narrative, he named the odd carpenters hammering at board inside the
looking shapes “Witches Rocks” as a special highest rocks. The report of a rifle resembled
compliment to the ladies. They still stand in a sharp crack of thunder and echoes from rock
the same locality and the wind and weather to rock for some time. The lowing of cattle and
of 87 years have but heightened their strange braying of mules seemed to be answered be-
looking profiles; they are among the chief at- yond the mountains. Music, especially brass
tractions of one of the most wonderful chasms instruments, had a very pleasing effect and
in the west. resembled a person standing inside the rock
Erastus Snow, in describing the travels of imitating every note. The echo, the high rocks
the pioneers down Echo Canyon, writes: on the north, high mountains on the south,
“Our descent was very rapid all day, while with the narrow ravine for a road, formed a
the top of the bluffs seemed to maintain the scenery at once romantic and more interest-
same level. Down this narrow valley runs a ing than I have ever witnessed.”
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 103 • Friday, July 16
From Orson Pratt’s advance company,
which was encamped near the west bank of
the Weber River, Porter Rockwell was sent
back to report to the main camp that the new
route, which the brethren had thought would
be difficult to discover, had been found.
The advance company then went up what is
now called Main Canyon, west of the present
Henefer and after traveling three and one-half
miles uphill, they came to the so-called Lone
Tree (now withered), where the pioneers built
a bridge across a creek. Continuing the jour-
ney they soon reached the divide called “Hog’s
Back,” but by the pioneers called Pratt’s Pass,
or Reed’s Pass, which is six miles west or
southwest of the present village of Henefer.
From this divide the pioneers obtained a good
view of the snow-capped mountains standing
out in bold relief against the horizon on the
south and southwest. After traveling downhill
two and a half miles, they encamped for the
night near a spring, where willows grow in
abundance. The stream of water formed by
this spring is now called Dixie Creek. This
camping place was near the point where East
Canyon Creek enters a narrow canyon and
where the Weber and Davis county reservoir
is now located. Orson Pratt writes:
“We resumed our journey up a small
stream on Reed’s route, sending in advance
of the wagons a small company of about a
dozen men, with spades, axes, etc., to make
the road passable, which required consider-
able labor. We traveled about six miles and
encamped for the night. There was plenty of
grass and water; some antelope, small willows
in abundance. After we had encamped, Elijah
Newman and myself walked down the ravine
to examine the road. We found that Mr. Reed’s
company last season had spent several hours’
labor spanding, etc., but finding it almost
impracticable for wagons, they had turned
up a ravine, at the mouth of which we had
encamped, and taken a little more circuitous
route over the hills.”
This morning the main camp of the
pioneers in Echo Canyon was visited by two
pleasant showers, accompanied by pretty loud
thunder. At 8:45 a.m. the pioneers proceeded
onward, traveling through the narrow ravine
(Echo Canyon) between very high mountains.
After journeying 1¼ miles, they crossed a
steep ravine, where most of the teams had
to double to get up. One-half mile farther,
they forded the main creek and found the
crossing very bad. Here Harvey Pierce broke
his wagon reach and bolster. The wagon had
to be unloaded, but with little delay was soon
repaired, during which time a number of the
brethren fixed a new place to cross the creek.
After passing that place and following the
course of the creek, the mountains seemed to
increase in height, and came so near together
103
in some places as to leave merely
room enough for a cooked road. At
half past 12 the pioneers halted to
feed near a spring, having traveled
6¾ miles that forenoon. The day
was pleasant with a nice breeze.
The grass was plentiful and pretty
high, but no timber was seen, ex-
cept small cedars on the sides of the
mountains. There were numerous
springs of clear water in the canyon
all along the base of the mountains.
While nooning, Porter Rockwell
arrived from Orson Pratt’s advance
company and reported that the
Reed cutoff over the mountains had
been found and that Pratt’s compa-
ny expected to arrive at the top of
the mountains at noon that day.
About 2 p.m. the pioneers pro-
ceeded onward down Echo Canyon
and found the pass between the
mountains growing narrower, until
it seemed strange that a road could George David Grant
ever have been made through. They
crossed the main creek a number Sept. 10, 1812, Windsor, New York —
of times, and a number of small Sept. 25, 1876, Woods Cross, Utah
tributaries, and in several places
the crossing was most difficult.
After proceeding a few miles, they sas in consequence of the singular echo resound-
patches of oak shrubbery, though small in ing in the mountains, they no doubt thinking
size. In the same place, and for several miles, they are answered by other animals in the
there were many patches or groves of wild distance.”
currant, hop vines, elder and black birch. Wil- At 6:45 p.m. the pioneers formed their en-
lows were abundant and high. The currents campment for the night, having traveled that
were yet green and tasted like a gooseberry, afternoon 9½ miles and during the day 16¼
the rind being thick and rather bitter. Hops miles. The camp was enclosed by high moun-
were in blossom and seemed likely to yield a tains on each side, and this was the first good
good crop, which the pioneers took as a pretty camping place they had seen since noon, not
good proof of the absence of severe frost and for lack of grass or water, but on account of
showing a mild climate. The pioneers also the narrow gap between the mountains. Grass
found elder in flower, ripe gooseberries, roses was pretty plentiful most of the discance and
in full bloom, many other flowers, wild wheat, seemed to grow higher the farther they went
plenty of grass and many springs of good west. At this place the grass was about 6 feet
water. high, and on the creek 8 or 10 feet high.
All afternoon the pioneers traveled down Elder Woodruff went to Weber’s Fork, one
the narrow ravine (Echo Canyon) and in mile from the encampment to fish and caught
different places their advance appeared to a trout for President Young. The Weber River
be blocked by the high rocks that they could could be seen a mile ahead of the pioneer
not see two wagons ahead. In some places camp.
the pioneers had to pass close to the foot of George David Grand, one of the prominent
high, perpendicular mountains of red rock, Utah pioneers of 1848, was born September
supposed to be from 600 to 1,000 feet high. 10, 1812, in the town of Windsor, Broome
The road was very bad neary all the way, County, New York, and died September 25,
and especially at the many crossings of the 1876, at Woods Cross, Davis County, Utah
creek, making travel hard for the sick. Pres- Territory. He drove one of President Young’s
ident Young and Elder Albert P. Rockwood, wagons across the plains in 1848, and during
who rode in Wilford Woodruff’s carriage all the early days in the valley, he served as a
day, were wearied and worn out at night and bodyguard to President Young. He owned a
their condition was worse. big farm at Woods Cross, or Bountiful, and
“The cattle and mules seemed very un- left a large family. George David Grant was a
easy,” writes William Clayton, “and continued son of the late Jedediah M. Grant and uncle to
lowing and braying all morning. I suppose it is President Heber J. Grant.
104 Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847

Day 104 • Saturday, July 17

Orson Pratt’s advance company of pioneers
traveled about eight miles over a rough moun-
tainous road and camped for the night on the
left bank of East Canyon Creek on a beautiful
flat which is now covered by the waters of the
East Canyon Creek Reservoir. This camping
place was at the point where a beautiful clear
stream, now called Taylor Creek, empties into
East Canyon Creek from the east and is about
half a mile down from the upper end of the
reservoir mentioned. Elder Orson Prat writes:
“We had a severe frost last night. Early this
morning I started out alone and on foot to
examine the country back, to see if there was
not a more practicable route for the companies
in the rear than the one we had come. I was
soon satisfied that we had taken the best and
most practicable route. I returned to camp and
counseled the company not to go any farther
until they had spent several hours’ labor on
the road over which we passed yesterday after-
noon, and all who were able to work labored
about two-thirds of the day upon the same.
“Leaving orders for the camp toward night
to move on, Elder John Brown and myself
rode on to explore. About 3½ miles brought
us down upon the right bank of the creek Walter H. Crow, June 8, 1826, in Illinois — date of death unknown;
which was about twenty feet wide and had a William P. Vance, Oct. 20, 1822, Jackson County, Pennsylvania —
swift current. This creek (East Canyon Creek) Dec. 5, 1914, Lund, Nevada
passed through a canyon about 40 rods below,
where it is for a few rods shut up by perpen- and passed around a high, bold rock (Pulpit As they descended from the hills, these
dicular and overhauling walls, being a break in Rock). On their right near the junction of these brethren discovered at the head of a deep
a mountain, which rises several hundred feet two streams the pioneers turned to the right ravine, which opened to the valley below,
upon each side. The creek plunges underneath in a northwesterly course. The pioneers had conglomerate columns about 120 feet high,
a large rock which lies in its bed, nar the foot traveled through Echo Canyon for a distance of 30 feet in diameter at the base and 10 feet at
of the canyon, blockading the same and mak- 23 miles in a southwesterly direction. the top. These wonderful formations are now
ing it wholly impassable for wagons or teams. While traveling that day, Presiden Young known as the “Witches’ Rocks” and are among
We followed the dimly traced wagon tracks up was again very sick with the mountain fever the scenes enjoyed by thousands who pass
this stream for eight miles, crossing the same and could not endure to travel farther. Conse- through that country by railroad.
13 times. The bottoms of this creek are thickly quently, Elder Kimball and some others went The portraits given today are of two pio-
covered with willows, from five to 15 rods ahead to select a camping ground. They soon neers who were both living in 1897, to wit:
wide, making an immense labor in cutting a returned and reported a place for camping a William P. Vance and Walter H. Crow, both
road through for the emigrants last season. We little farther down the Weber. The pioneers residents of the extreme southern part of the
still found the road impassable and requiring then traveled in a northwesterly direction for a state they had helped to build up.
much labor. The mountains upon each side distance of 1½ miles and encamped at 10 a.m. Walter H. Crow was a member of the Mis-
rise abruptly from 600 to 3,000 feet above the on the right bank of the river, only 2½ miles sissippi company that had passed the winter
bed of the stream. from the previous night’s encampment. in Pueblo with Captain James Brown and the
“Returning, we met our camp about 4¾ The day was hot and the mosquitoes invalids from the Mormon Battalion. He was
miles from where they were encamped in the plentiful. The eleventh ten to which Father born in Illinois June 8, 1826, and started for
morning. They were now encamped about two Chamberlain belonged remained behind in the the west in 1846 with his father’s family. They
miles above the canyon on the left bank of East previous night’s encampment until his wagon met the pioneer company at Fort Laramie and
Canyon Creek. At this place there is a small was repaired. came on to the Valley.
rivulet which runs down from the mountains; About 2 p.m. Heber C. Kimball, Willard Mr. Crow was one of those sent ahead with
the water is pure and cold.” Richards, Ezra T. Benson, George A. Smith, Orson Pratt, and he arrived in the valley ahead
In the main camp one mile up Echo Canyon John Pack, Howard Egan, Thomas Bullock, of the main company. He was a resident of
from the Weber River, the pioneers arose to Erastus Snow, Lorenzo D. Young, and Albert Piute County, Utah, in 1897.
behold a fine pleasant morning. A forge was Carrington ascended a very high and steep hill William Perkins Vance was born October
set up and some of the wagons were repaired. about two miles from the camp and engaged in 20, 1822, in Jackson County, Pennsylvania,
Nine of the pioneers’ horses were lost, in solemn prayer before the Lord, pleading in be- and died at Lund, White Pine County, Nevada,
consequence of which the pioneers did not half of President Young and others who were December 5, 1914. Mr. Vance was one of those
start until 9:40 a.m. After traveling down sick in camp and the saints who were follow- sent to settle various towns and counties in
Echo Canyon about a mile they arrived at the ing, as well as for their own wives and children southern Utah.
junction of Echo Creek with the Weber River, who were left behind at Winter Quarters.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 105 • Sunday, July 18
The morning was cold and the ground cov-
ered with snow in both of the pioneer camps,
and there was no traveling done that day.
In Orson Pratt’s camp on the East Canyon
Creek, a meeting was held in the forenoon
and the brethren remained in encampment
all day. Elder Pratt observed that his camp was
85½ miles from Fort Bridger in latitude 50
degrees 54 minutes 7 seconds; that the lunar
observation was taken for the longitude and
that he also took an observation of the moon
for time.
In the main pioneer camp on the We-
ber River, one and a half miles below Echo
Canyon, President Brigham Young was very
sick. At 8 a.m., before breakfast, President
Huber C. Kimball called the brethren together
at the wagon of Dr. Willard Richards and
when it was decided to assemble at 10 a.m,
the brethren went to work transplanting the
tops of threes and built a beautiful bowery.
Heber C. Kimball had proposed to the breth-
ren that instead of their scattering off—some
hunting, others climbing mountains—they
should been together to pray and exhort each
other ot faithfulness, asking the Lord to turn
away the sickness which infested the camp,
and especially that He would heal President
Young, so that the company might proceed on
its journey.
At the sound of the bugle, the brethren in
charge of the bishops assembled in the bow-
ery, which was built in a little grove of shrub-
bery opposite the wagons. During the meeting
President Kimball proposed to the brethren
that the whole camp, except President Young
and eight or ten wagons (with rough brethren
105
to take care of him), proceed on the
following day over the mountains
and, after finding a suitable place,
commence to plant potatoes, etc.,
as there was but little time to spare,
the season being well advanced.
This proposition was accepted by
unanimous vote.
In the afternoon another meeting
was held at which it was reported
that President Young was much
better, which caused great rejoicing
in the camp. The sacrament was
administered by the bishops and
a good spirit prevailed. Some
remarks were made by a number
of the brethren. The effects of the
prayers of the brethren were visible
throughout the camp, and President
Young, who had been sick nigh
unto death, was sensibly better.
The weather was very hot during
the day, with little air moving. A
number of the brethren still contin- Benjamin William Rolfe
ued sick, but all were expected to
recover soon. Oct. 7, 1822, Romford, Maine —
Benjamin Williams Rolfe, whose May 31, 1892, Salt Lake City, Utah
portrait appears on this date, was
born in Romford, Maine, October 7, 1822, honest and straightforward man at all times.
and died May 31, 1892, in Salt Lake City. James Davenport was another of the
Eighty-seven years ago today he was with the pioneers, on this day with the main compa-
main camp in Echo Canyon. Mr. Rolfe in those ny, of which John Pack was in charge. When
days was not a member of the Church, but organized, Davenport was in the eleventh ten,
was one of the men who had cast their lot with captained by John S. Higbee. He was born in
the pioneers to accompany them to the west. Danville, Caledonia County, Vermont, May 1,
He became a member of the Church after he 1802, and died in Richmond, Cache County,
arrived in the Valley, and was spoken of as an Utah, about 1885.
106
Day 106 • Monday, July 19
Elders Orson Pratt and John Brown left the
advance camp of the pioneers on East Canyon
Creek soon after sunrise to make a reconnais-
sance of the road, which left Canyon Creek
ran up along through a ravine to the west. The
ascent was gradual for about four miles, when
the dividing ridge was reached. Here the two
pioneers tied their horses, and on foot ascend-
ed a nearby mountain, Big Mountain, by name,
to obtain a glimpse of the country.
Previously, from the peaks of that neigh-
borhood, the pathfinder of the pioneer band
had been met by a series of towering snow
capped mountains, piled seemingly one upon
the other, ever greeting his tired vision as
he gazed eagerly westward, looking for the
“Promised Land.” But this time a different
view was exposed. To the southwest, through
a vista of gradually sloping mountain, through
an opening in the canyons, the light blue and
the fleecy white clouds above seemed to be
sinking into a plain of gold. Two small portions
of a level prairie were visible, and beyond
arose a series of blue mountains, their peaks
tipped with snow. It was the valley of the Great
Salt Lake.
Orson Pratt writes: “We came down from
the mountain and mounted our horses,
and rode down on the southwest side of the
mountain; the descent was very rapid at first.
We traveled down several miles and found
that the small stream we were descending
passed through a very high mountain, where
we judged it impossible for wagons to pass;
and, after searching awhile, we found that the
wagon trail ascended quite abruptly for about
one and a half miles, and passed over a moun-
tain (Little Mountain) and down into another
narrow valley (Emigration Canyon) and thus
avoided a the canyon (Parley’s Canyon). After
making these explorations, we returned to our
camp, which we met six and a half miles from
their morning encampment. Elder Rockwell
had returned, bringing us the intelligence that
the most of the pioneer wagons were within a
few miles of us.”
The morning in the main pioneer camp
on the Weber was fine and warm. President
Young was considerably better.The brethren
gathered up their animals and started from
their camp one and a half miles below the
mouth of Echo Canyon; but, as two steers were
missing, Dr. Willard Richards could move until
8 a.m., when President Young was removed
down the river about two and a quarter miles.
The pioneers found the road rough on account
of loose rocks and cobble stones scattered
over it.
As the Twelve thought it not advisable for
the camp to wait longer for President Young,
about 40 teams left the encampment on the
Weber, accompanied by Apostles Willard
Richards and George A. Smith, which instruc-
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
tions to follow the advance company
let by Elder Orson Pratt, and halt a
the first suitable spot after reaching
the lake valley and put in the seed
potatoes, buckwheat, turnips, etc.,
brought along by the pioneers,
regardless of the final location.
Leaving President Young, Heber
C. Kimball, Wilford Woodruff,
Ezra T. Benson and others with
15 wagons on the east bank of the
Weber, the main body of pioneers
crossed that river near the site of
the present village of Henefer. After
traveling three-quarters of a mile
from the ford, the company turned
to the left to follow the so-called
“Reed Cutoff,” bending toward what
the pioneers now called Pratt’s Pass.
Elder Erastus Snow was waiting on
the west side of the river to guide
the company to this cutoff.
After waiting a short time, the James Davenport
company made a fresh start and
May 1, 1802, Danville, Vermont —
the pioneers then passed through a
heavy patch of sage brush to the foot 1885, Richmond, Utah
of a hill or mountain (Hogsback),
which they began to ascend by a winding many currants and gooseberries just ripening.
course. Elders Kimball, Woodruff, Smith, and The creek on which the pioneers made their
Egan passed the company on horseback, going camp that night was East Canyon Creek, which
ahead to examine the country. proved to be a tributary of the Weber River. El-
About three and a half miles from the ford- der Pratt had named this stream Canyon Creek
ing of the Weber, the brethren stopped to build from the fact that it entered a narrow canyon
a bridge over a mountain stream and, after just below the point where the road reached it.
traveling with some difficulty two and a quar- The day had been hot, and no wind.
ter miles farther, they arrived at the summit The teams got overheated before the camp
of the dividing ridge (Hogsback), where they was made. The grass was scarce where the
put up a guide board with this inscription: “80 encampment was made, but it was said to be
miles to Fort Bridger.” more plentiful a little farther on.
The descent from the summit was over a Several minor accidents happened to wag-
rough road, and the pioneers found it neces- ons during the day, but nothing serious, except
sary to stop frequently and repair the same. the breaking down of George A. Smith’s wagon.
At 2 p.m. the pioneers halted beside a small By this time the sick in camp were getting
creek to water their teams, having traveled better. In the evening the brethren picked up a
that forenoon 10½ miles over an exceedingly lot of dry willows and made a coal pit and Burr
rough road. The company started forward Frost set up his temporary blacksmith shop to
again at 3:35 p.m. The road turned suddenly to set George A. Smith’s tire so that the pioneers
the right for about three-quarters of a mile and could leave on the morrow.
then took a southwest course again. At this The evening and night were very cold,
turn the pioneers descended a very long, steep though the day had been hot, and traveling
hill, nearly a mile long, and then descended extremely hard. The camp Monday evening
by a very crooked road. After traveling a little was in the mountains 1,011 miles from Winter
more than three miles from the noon halting Quarters and but seven miles to the rear of
place, or five miles from the summit, the Orson Pratt’s camp. The pioneers were now
pioneers crossed a creek. After going a little experiencing the worst roads of the whole trip.
farther, the night encampment was made at President Brigham Young traveled about
5:50 p.m. on a small, grassy spot surrounded two and a quarter miles with the main body
by thick shrubbery growing on the banks of of pioneers down the Weber and was then left
the creek. in an encampment made on the east bank of
The company had traveled three and a quar- the Weber, about four miles below the mouth
ter miles during the afternoon and 13¾ miles of Echo Canyon and near the present site of
during the day. Henefer, only on the opposite side of the river,
Near the camping place the brethren found he being too sick to travel.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 107 • Tuesday, July 20
The morning was frosty in the mountains
where the respective pioneers camps had
spent the night. A description of the road and
country for several miles ahead was left in a
conspicuous place for the benefit of the camp
which was soon expected to pass.
Orson Pratt’s advance company resumed
their journey about 9 in the morning and
traveled about six miles over the mountains,
laboring diligently on the road.
In the main pioneer camp, located on East
Canyon Creek, the morning after the sunrise
was fine and warm; yea there was ice on
the water after a frosty night. A coal pit was
burned and Burr Frost, setting up his black-
smith forge, repaired a number of wagons, in-
cluding the one belonging to George A. Smith,
which had broken down the day before. This
work consumed the time until nearly 11 a.m.
This forenoon Brothers Henry G. Sherwood,
Benjamin F. Dewey, and James Case felt so
sich that they were unable to ride over the
rough roads, hence three wagons were left on
the campground until President Young and
the rear company should overtake them.
One of Brother Crow’s men returned from
Elder Pratt’s advance company and reported
that their camp was about nine miles ahead
and were ascending a very steep hill (Big
Mountain).
The brethren spent much time cutting
brush wood and improving the road. After
traveling four miles up the creek the company
halted for about an hour to water teams and
eat dinner and waited until the rear wagons of
the company came up.
The road over which they had traveled that
morning was through an uneven gap between
high mountains and was exceedingly rough
and crooked. The pioneers proceeded on and
traveled over the same kind of rough road
until a little after 5 p.m., when they camped,
having traveled seven and a quarter miles
during the day. The last three miles had been
the worst road of the two, being through
willow buses over 20 feet high; also rose and
gooseberry bushes and shaking poplar and
birch timber. Although a road had been cut
through, it was yet scarcely possible to travel
without tearing the wagon covers.
The pioneers crossed East Canyon Creek
11 times during the day. During the day the
company got along without much damage to
their wagons, which was very fortunate, as the
road was awful.
Thomas Bullock in his diary states that this
had been a crooked and hard day’s journey
and hard driving through stumps and stones.
At one place the pioneers passed through
many tall cottonwood trees and the remainder
of the was through willows, aspen, gooseberry
bushes and briars.
107
The night’s encampment was
near a large spring of cold water
and at the same place where Elder
Orson Pratt’s advance company had
spent the previous night at the base
of the mountains.
Elders Willard Richards and
George A. Smith decided to send
Erastus Snow ahead in the morning
with a letter to overtake Elder Pratt
and accompany him to the valley
and to assist in selecting a suitable
place to plant seeds.
As President Young’s health was
improving, and he was able to trav-
el, it was thought best to journey on
in the cool of the morning; hence
the rear company of pioneers left
their camping ground on the eas
bank of the Weber at 5:30 a.m. and,
after traveling about a mile, they
crossed the Weber River at a point
where it was about five or six rods
John Young Greene
wide and two feet deep. President
Young traveled in Wiford Wood- Sept. 2, 1826, New York State —
ruff’s carriage and, although the May 24, 1880, Salt Lake City, Utah
fever was still on him, she stood the
journey well.
After traveling about three-fourths of a mile to the south; they then descended a hill which
from the ford they came to a guide board put was very rough. They passed over a number
up by the companies traveling ahead, with of steep pitches, the road bending to the west
the following inscription on it: “Pratt’s pass to for a short distance, and then to the south
avoid the canyon, 74¼ miles from Ford Bridg- again. They then came to a beautiful stream
er.” Here the road turned to the southwest (East Canyon Creek), which they crossed twice
and after traveling about two miles farther the in traveling about one-fourth of a mile, and
company stopped to get breakfast near a cool encamped for the night on its banks. During
stream of water. the day this company had traveled 12½ miles.
After stopping for one and a half hours, Although President Young had stood the jour-
the company proceeded on their journey. ney well, considering the hard road, he was
Howard Egan, with four or five others, went quite weary at night.
ahead to repair the road. After traveling about John Young Greene of the pioneer camp
six miles, the noon halt was made in a valley was born in New York State, September 2,
which was hemmed in on all sides by moun- 1826, and died in Salt Lake City, May 24, 1880.
tains. At this place there was plenty of feed On this date, 87 years back, he was probably
and water and some willows and sagebrush with Brigham Young’s camp, as he was a
that answered for fuel. member of the notable ten in which the leader
Elders Kimball and Benson went ahead to and his brothers traveled.
see if they could travel any farther. They re- The following are the names of members
turned about 3:30 p.m. and reported that they of the pioneer band of whom no photographs
had found a good campground about three could be obtained: Roswell Servens, Luke S.
and half miles ahead, where three wagons, Johnson, Edmund Ellsworth, Sylvester H. Earl,
which had started out with the main company William Henrie, Simeon Howd, Seeley Owen,
of pioneers, were encamped. Among the James Case, Artemas Johnson, Franklin
brethren who had stopped there on account G. Losee, Horace Montore Frink, Seth Taft,
of sickness were Henry G. Sherwood, Luke Almon S. Williams, Elijah Newman, Francis
S. Johnson, James Case, and William C. A. Boggs, David R. Grant, William A. King, Hosea
Smoot, who had remained behind in conse- Cushing, Robert Byard, Edison Whipple, Sol-
quence of sickness. omon Chamberlain, Andrew Gibbons, Joseph
Hearing this, President Young’s compa- Hancock, Matthew Ivory, David Powell or Pow-
ny started again about 4:30 p.m. and, after ers, Joseph Matthews, Alexander P. Chessley,
traveling about a quarter of a mile, began to Samuel H. Marble, Stephen H. Markham, and
ascend a long winding hill, the road bending Horace Datus Ensign.
108 Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847

Day 108 • Wednesday, July 21

Orson Pratt’s advance company, which
had camped on Big Mountain Creek during
the night, resumed the journey at 8 a.m. and
traveled two and a half miles farther down
the creek. They then turned to the right and
traveled a mile and a half up a steep grade to
the top of a ridge, which subsequently became
known as Little Mountain. Thence they de-
scended for about a mile to Emigration Creek,
which they named Last Creek. After travel-
ing down said cree, or through Emigration
Canyon, they encamped for the night on a nice
open flat about one and a half miles up from
the mouth of Emigration Canyon. But during
the afternoon Elders Orson Pratt and Erastus
Snow entered Great Salt Lake Valley, traveled
in a circuit of 12 miles and returned to camp
in the evening.
The morning was warm and pleasant in the
main pioneer camp on East Canyon Creek.
The company broke their encampment at 6:30
a.m. and resumed the journey. They crossed
East Canyon Creek once more and about half a
mile from where they had camped during the
night the road turned to the right, leaving the
Orson Pratt, Sept. 19, 1811, Hartford, New York — Oct. 3, 1881, Salt Lake City,
creek, and ascended the mountains gradual- Utah; Erastus Snow, Nov. 9, 1818, St. Johnsbury, Vermont — May 27, 1888,
ly. Much time was necessarily spent cutting Salt Lake City, Utah
down stumps, heaving out rocks and leveling
the road. The last half mile of the ascent was The following is from the pen of Willaim 13 hours. Orson Pratt’s company is camped
very steep. Clayton: about a mile ahead of us. Colonel Markham
There was considerable timber up this gap, “From the top of this ridge (Big Mountain) joined us from the rear camp and reported
or quite a forest of aspen, balsam, fir, and we can see an extensive valley to the west. several new cases of sickness, but most of the
cottonwood. Some of the brethren cut out the We halted on the ridge a little while and then brethren were getting better.”
stamps of trees and made a very good road. prepared to descend, and in doing so many President Young’s rear company laid over
After watering the cattle at a small stream of the teamsters locked both hind wheels of for the day on East Canyon Creek in conse-
they proceeded on over Big Mountain until their wagons. We found the road very steep quence of the sick.
they came to a good sized creek (Big Canyon and rendered dangerous by the many stumps The portraits today are of the two first
Creek). The brethren made a better bridge of trees left standing in the road. About a mile members of the pioneer band to enter Salt
across this steam, which they crossed several and half from the top (of Big Mountain) is a Lake Valley. Their biographies have been
times. spring and a stream of very good cold water, included in former recitals. The portraits are
The company finally came out into an where we halted to let the teams drink. After taken from the famous Piercy group of the
open valley (Mountain Dell) and found a good this we found the road was not so steep, but twelve apostles from the artist’s own drawings
spring of water (Birch Springs). They then still very rough, winding between high hills or in 1853. The old engraving from which The
turned to the right to avoid a rough canyon mountains, through willows, brush, wood and Tribune was given permission to copy the por-
(Parley’s Canyon) and ascended a long steep rocks and also over soft places, crossing the traits by the late Samuel W. Richards, the orig-
hill (Little Mountain), from the top of which creek (Big Canyon Creek) a number of times. inal publisher, has quite a story attached to it.
the brethren could see Orson Pratt’s advance After traveling four and a half miles from the The picture was owned by Sig Simon of Salt
camp ahead. They then descended to another top of the ridge we came to a good spring of Lake City, who secured it in a peculiar way.
run of water (Emigration Creek), which was cold water, plenty of grass and a good place to In 1896 a teamster, in the mouth of Emigra-
muddy. They also passed two or three ugly camp. Our teams have now been in the arness tion Canyon, unearthed a lot of goods hidden
places and camped in a bed of wild wheat at about 10 hours without eating, and some of securely under a pile of rocks. The picture was
7:30 p.m., after traveling 14 miles in 13 hours. the brethren desired to camp by the spring, included in the lot and two of the faces were
Colonel Stephen Markham came up from but others wished to go further, and so we of those who, 49 years before, had seen from
the rear camp and superintended the camping continued, turning suddenly to the right. the spot the valley and the lake. Mr. Simon,
of the main company. Orson Pratt’s company “We soon began to ascend another high recognizing the worth of the old engraving,
was camped about a mile farther down the ridge (Little Mountain), and while ascending bought it off the teamster for $1.
canyon. some of the teams commenced to fail, but all Mr. Richards states that a number of steel
Erastus Snow, who left the main pioneer succeeded in reaching the top. The descent engravings, with many other articles of value,
camp on East Canyon Creek in the morning from this ridge is not as steep as the other were stolen from his house and were never
on horseback, soon overtook Orson Pratt’s one. After descending we came to another located. It is probable that they were hidden
advance company and after crossing the Bing small creek and a very rough road. in the spot where they were found, but the
and Little Mountains entered the valley with “At 7 p.m. we formed our encampment coincidence is quite remarkable.
Orson Pratt. near the creek, having traveled 14 miles in
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 109 • Thursday, July 22
The morning was cloudy and it looked
like rain in the pioneer camps in Emigration
Canyon.
Early in the morning Elder Orson Pratt from
the advance company of pioneers (encamped
about 1½ miles up from the mouth of Emi-
gration Canyon) visited the main company of
pioneers (encamped about a mile above Elder
Pratt’s company) and consulted with Willard
Richards and George A. Smith, when it was
decided that Orson Pratt, George A. Smith and
several others would go ahead into the valley
and look for a suitable place to plant see, while
Willard Richards should take the lead of the
pioneers in traveling through the canyon into
the valley.
According to his arrangement, Elder Orson
Pratt, accompanied by Elder George A. Smith,
Erastus Snow, Joseph Matthews, John Brown,
John Pack, Porter Rockwell, Jesse C. Little and
one other man whose name is not given in the
records, started on horseback for the valley.
The following details are from the writings of
Elder Orson Pratt:
“This morning George A. Smith and myself,
accompanied by seven others, rode into the
valley to explore, leaving the camp to follow on
and work the road, which here required con-
siderable labor, for we found that the canyon
at the entrance of the valley, bu cutting out the
thick timber and underbrush, connected with
some spading and digging, could be made ar
more preferable than the route over the step
hill ascended by the Reed party in 1846. We
accordingly left a written note to that effect and
passed on.
“After going down into the valley about
five miles, we turned our course to the north,
down toward the Salt Lake. For three or four
miles northwest we found the soil of the most
excellent quality. Streams from the mountains
and springs were very abundant, the water
excellent and generally with gravel bottoms.
“As we proceeded toward the Salt Lake the
soil began to assume a more sterile appearance
and we found great numbers of hot springs is-
suing from near the base of the mountains. We
traveled for about 15 miles down after coming
into the valley. We returned and found our
wagons encamped in the valley, about 5¼ miles
from where they left the canyon.”
The main company of pioneers, which had
spent the night in Emigration Canyon about
2½ miles up from its mouth, broke camp at
8:30 a.m. and came up to the camping ground
which had been occupied the previous night
by Oraon Pratt’s advance company. They
soon overtook the last teams of Orson Pratt’s
company and graded the hill on each side of
the creek. They then crossed over the creek
and entered the mouth of the canyon. As the
pioneers neared the mouth of the canyon, the
ravine became so narrow that it left only a few
The Salt Lake Valley as it appeared in 1847 (from H. L. A. Culmer’s drawing,
taken from the spot where the pioneers emerged from Emigration Canyon)
rods of a bottom for the creek to pass through
and hardley room for a road. It was evident that
the Reed company who passed through the year
before had spent a great deal of time cutting a
road through the thickly set timber and heavy
brushwood.
After traveling 1¾ miles, the pioneers found
the road crossing the creek again to the north
side and then ascended a very steep hill. Broth-
er Markham said that a good road could soon
be made down the canyon by digging a little
and cutting through the bushes for a distance of
some ten or fifteen rods. A number of men went
to work immediately to make the road.
After spending some four hours’ labor on the
road at the mouth of the canyon, the brethren
succeeded in cutting a pretty good road through
the brush along the creek, and the wagons pro-
ceeded on, taking near a southwest course after
reaching the valley. Turning around a hill to
the right they came in full view of the Great Salt
Lake in the distance, its islands with their lofty
hills towering up behind the silvery lake.
The encampment was made at 4:30 p.m. on
the banks of the beautiful little stream (Mill
Creek); having traveled 7¼ miles during the
day.
Soon after the pioneers camped, Elder Pratt
and company arrived in the camp and in the
evening many of the brethren met around
the campfire to hear the report of Orson Pratt
and George A. Smith and the other brethren
who had been out on the exploring trip on
horseback, having traveled about 20 miles.
They reported that a short distance north of
the campground they found a suitable place
to plant their seeds. About four miles north of
the pioneer camp were two beautiful streams
of water (the two branches of City Creek) with
stony bottoms. Beyond that was a saline coun-
109
try and about fifty mineral or sulfur springs
issuing from the rocks. One of these the breth-
ren jokingly said would do for a barber shop.
Another of them, the largest, gushed out of the
rocks and then formed a pool of water appar-
ently ten feet deep with rock in the center. The
water was so hot that a person could not bear
his hand in it for more than a very few seconds.
A council was held at Dr. Willard Richards’
wagon and it was decided to move early on the
morrow to the place designated for planting
potatoes; also to send two men, John Pack and
Joseph Matthews, back to President Young’s
company to report progress, etc., then to com-
mence forthwith to plow and plant.
President Young’s rear company, which
had spent the night in camp on East Canyon
Creek, resumed the journey at 7:30 a.m. and
traveled eight miles in a southerly course over
a very rough road up East Canyon Creek, and
camped on that creek near the place where the
road turned west toward the summit of the Big
Mountain. During the day this company crossed
East Canyon Creek 11 times, traveling over
the worst of roads. The sick stood the journey
better than had been expected, considering the
bad roads. President Young and Father Henry
C. Sherwood were better.
In the afternoon the company, in continuing
the journey, traveled through a long narrow
ravine and through dense thickets of willows
and cottonwood groves. They then ascended
a steep hill and found a billet that was left by
Brother Pratt. The company then descended a
steep hill and encamped on the bank of Canyon
Creek, about a quarter of a mile beyond where
they found the letter, having traveled about
eight miles. The night encampment was formed
where the road left Canyon Creek for good,
turning west toward the top of Big Mountain.
110
Day 110 • Friday, July 23
In the morning John Pack and Joseph
Matthews were dispatched as messengers
from the pioneer camp in the valley to the
rear camp to inform President Young and
those who were with him of the progress of
the advance company and of their discoveries,
explorations and arrival in the valley.
The main company of pioneers, who had
spent the night on Mill Creek, began to move
about 7 a.m., taking the back track for about
a mile and then turned northward, traveling
about two miles further to a small grove of
cottonwood trees, standing on the banks of
a beautiful stream of water skirted on both
sides with willows and shrubs. This was the
south branch of the stream known as City
Creek, and the ground selected here by the pi-
oneers for a permanent camping ground and
a farm was a part of what now is the Eighth
Ward of Salt Lake City, including the block
upon which the city and county building now
stands. This camping ground was, according
to the deduction of Thomas Bullock, the camp
historian, 1,073 miles from Winter Quarters.
About 9:30 a.m. the pioneers were called
together on the new camping ground on City
Creek and, after a few introductory remarks
by Orson Pratt, he offered up prayer and
thanksgiving on behalf of the pioneers.
The meeting was then addressed by Wil-
lard Richards and Orson Pratt, after which
Shadrach Roundy, Stephen Markahm, Seth
Taft, Robert Crow, and Albert Carrington were
appointed a committee to select ground for
planting potatoes, cord, beans, etc. They im-
mediately left the meeting to accomplish their
task. Charles A. Harper, Charles Shumway,
and Elijah Newman were appointed a com-
mittee to stock plows and drags and to call to
their assistance what men they wanted. Hen-
son Walker, William Wardsworth, and John
Brown were appointed a committee to su-
perintend the moving and rigging of scythes.
Stephen Markahm was appointed to attend
to the teams and to see that fresh teams were
hitched up every few hours. It was also de-
cided by vote that every man should plant his
own potatoes and seeds as he pleased. Almon
Williams was, by vote, appointed to oversee
the making of a coal pit.
At 11:30 a.m. the committees on planting
reported that they had staked off a piece of
fine ground 40 by 10 rods for potatoes; also a
suitable place for beans, corn and buckwheat,
where the soil was fertile, consisting of friable
loam with fine gravel.
At noon, or about two hours after the arriv-
al of pioneers on their new campground on
the banks of City Creek, plowing was begun
a short distance northeast of the camp, three
plows having been rigged for that purpose.
Thomas Bullock states that at 12 o’clock
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
the first furrow was
turned by Captain
Taft’s company,
but adds that Taft’s
blow broke. He,
however, does not
mention any other
name. From other
sources, however,
it is learned that
William Carter,
George W. Brown,
and Shadrach
Roundy took part
in plowing the first Nathanial Fairbanks, May 10, 1823, Queensbury, New York
furrows ever made — 1853 or 1854, California; Isaac P. Decker, Aug. 7, 1840,
by white men in the Winchester, Illinois — Jan. 24, 1916, Provo, Utah
valley. This plowing
was begun near a
point where Main Street (East Temple Street) becoming more confined in its limits as the
now intersects First South Street, near the pioneers advanced until they began to ascend
First National Bank (the former site of Godbe’s a long steep hill, up which the distance was
Drug Store). The soil was exceedingly dry and about one and a half miles to the top. This
several plows were broken during the day. was what afterward became known as Little
At 2 p.m. some of the men, by appointment, Mountain.
began to build a dam across City Creek and to Here Brothers Pack and Matthews left
dig trenches in order to convey the water from the company and went ahead to the pioneer
that steam onto the land which was being camp in the valley. The president’s company
plowed, in order to irrigate the same. After then descended a long, steep hill, bearing a
soaking the ground, plowing was compara- northwest course; most of the way down they
tively easy. had to chain both wheels of their wagons. At
At 4 p.m. some of the brethren began mow- about 5 p.m. at the base of Little Mountain,
ing grass, preparing for a turnip patch. they reached a small clear stream of water
At 5 p.m. there was a light shower with which the advanced company of pioneers
thunder. It rained for about two hours. Toward had already named Last Creek, but which af-
evening the camp was visited by a thunder terward became known as Emigration Creek.
shower from the west, but not quite enough Here President Young and company formed
rain fell to lay the dust. their night’s encampment, having traveled
The morning was warm and pleasant in the during the day 11½ miles. The sick were
rear camp of the pioneers in the mountains gaining strength as fast as could be expected,
on East Canyon Creek. The company left its considering the fatigue of the journey.
encampment at 6:45 a.m. and began to jour- The portraits today are of Isaac Perry Deck-
ney, leaving East Canyon Creek and turning er, the second youngest person in the pioneer
short to the west, passing up a ravine over a camp, and Nathaniel Fairbanks, who was one
gradual ascent. At length, after traveling about of the first of the pioneers to pass away. He
five miles, the company attained the summit was accidentally drowned in California in
of the hill which afterward became known as 1853 or 1854.
Big Mountain. Mr. Decker was still alive in 1897, a resi-
From this summit (Big Mountain) the dent of Grand View, Owyhee County, Idaho.
company descended the long, steep slope, He was the son of Isaac Decker and Harriat
and part of the way down the brethren had Page Wheeler, who afterward Married Lorenzo
to chain both wheels of their wagons. After D. Young. Isaac Perry Decker was born in Win-
traveling six miles from the summit they came chester, Scott County, Illinois, August 7, 1840,
to a beautiful spring in a small birch grove, and for many years lived in Salt Lake City, but
where they halted for noon. This birch grove finally moved to Teton country in Idaho. He
on the Mountain Dell Creek is well known to died at Provo, Utah County, Utah, January 24,
this day and is situated in section 35, town- 1916, being the 28th living pioneer located by
ship 1 south, range 1 east, Salt Lake meridian, The Tribune in 1897.
property belonging to Salt Lake City. Nathaniel Fairbanks was born May 10,
After halting for about two hours, the com- 1823, in Queensbury, Washington County,
pany proceeded on its journey, going south New York, and died by accidental drowning in
of west a short distance, the valley or canyon California in 1853 or 1854.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Day 111 • Saturday, July 24
Entrance of Brigham Young into the Salt Lake Valley
(from a painting in the Union Pacific Railroad Station, Sal Lake City)
The morning was warm and pleasant in the
pioneer camp in Great Salt Lake Valley. The
sky was somewhat overspread with clouds.
Quite early in the forenoon the brethren con-
tinued their plowing, tocking plows, cutting
ditches to irrigate the land and made every
preparation for planting potatoes on or near
what is now the intersection of State and Third
South streets.
About noon the plowing of a five-acre
potato patch was completed, when the breth-
ren began planting their seed potatoes. The
brethren also planted some early corn and the
powers continued at work south of the potato
patch. When the ditch was completed the
water from City Creek was turned upon the
land to irrigate the potato patch; it was given a
good soaking and the experiment proved quite
successful.
Most of the brethren expressed themselves
well pleased with the valley. The only objec-
tion was the lack of timber and rain.
The following is from the pen of William
Clayton:
“The plowing is renewed and many are
planting potatoes. There is one drag going.
Others are still at work on the dams. John Pack
and Joseph Matthews returned at dark last
night and reported the president and company
a few miles up Last Creek. They have gone
back this morning to fix two bridges at the
mouth of the canyon.”
About noon President Young and Heber C.
Kimball arrived in the pioneer camp and the
other wagons belonging to the rear company
arrived about the same time. The president
seemed much better and the sick gener-
ally were improving. Most of the brethren
expressed themselves well pleased with the
place, but some complained because there
seemed to be no timber. Among those who
arrived with Presiden Young’s rear company
were Wilford Woodruff, Lornezo D. Young, and
Albert P. Rockwood. President Young rode in
Elder Woodruff’s marriage. With the arrival of
this rear company all the pioneers, who since
July 13 had traveled most of the time in three
distinct companies, were once more united.
It will be remembered that President
Young and the rear company had encamped
during the previous night at the foot of Little
Mountain in Emigration Canyon. In getting
up their horses in the morning the brethren
in that camp discovered that some of their
animals were missing. This delayed the
company for some time, but they broke up
their camp about 11 o’clock. The lost animals
were soon afterward found by Howard Egan
and he and Horace K. Whitney mounted their
horses and rode into the valley at the head of
the company.
At the mouth of the canyon they turned
to the right and ascended a very steep pitch,
where they beheld the great valley of the Salt
Lake laid out before them. It was at this point
that President Young is reported to have ut-
tered the famous words, “This is the place.”
Howard Egan, who traveled in the rear com-
pany, wrote when he beheld the valley:
“My heart felt truly glad, and I rejoiced at
having the privilege of beholding this exten-
sive and beautiful valley that many yet become
home of the Saints… At 11:45 we arrive at the
camp of the brethren, having traveled nine
and a quarter miles during the day, making the
total distance from the guide board at Pratt’s
111
Pass to the pioneer camp in the valley 41¼
miles. From Ford Briger 115½ miles. From Fort
John 512½ miles.”
The brethren arriving in President Young’s
rear company found the pioneers on City
Creek, who had arrived two days before, busily
engaged in plowing and planting potatoes.
They had already plowed a number of acres
and got considerable planted. Others of the
brethren were engaged in building a dam on
the creek to turn the water onto the land for
irrigation purposes.
Wilfrod Woodruff, in describing his en-
trance into the valley writes:
“This is one of the most important days
of my life, and in the history of the Church
of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. After
traveling six miles through a deep ravine
(Emigration Canyon) we came in full view of
the valley of the Great Salt Lake… The Land of
Promise held in reserve by God as a resting
place for his Saints. We gazed in wonder and
admiration upon the vast valley before us,
with the water of the Great Salt Lake glistening
in the sun, mountains towering to the skies
and streams of pure water running through
the valley. It was the grandest scene that we
had ever beheld to this moment… Pleasant
thoughts ran through our minds at the pros-
pect that, not many years hence, the House of
God would be established in the mountains
and exalted above the hills; while the valleys
would be converted into orchards, vineyards,
and fruitful fields, cities erected to the name
of the Lord, and the standard of Zion unfurled
for the gathering of nations. President Young
expressed his entire satisfaction at the appear-
ance of the valley… After gazing a while upon
112 Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847

this scenery we moved four miles across the

tableland into the valley to the encampment
of our brethren, who had arrived two days
before us. They had pitched upon the bank
of two small teams of pure water and had
commenced plowing. On our arrival they
had already broken five acres of land and
had begun planting potatoes.
“As soon as our encampment was formed,
before taking my dinner, having half a bush-
el of potatoes, I went to the plowed field and
planted them.”
Toward evening Elders Heber C. Kimball,
Wilford Woodruff, George A. Smith, and
Ezra T. Benson rode several miles up the
creek (City Creek) into the mountains to
look for timber and to get a good view of the
country.
The pioneer camp was visited in the
evening by a thunder shower and rain fell
nearly all over the valley.
That night the whole pioneer band was
comfortably and safely in camp in the
valley which had been their objective
point as well as the center of their fondest Elizabeth Crow Elizabeth Jane Therlkill
hopes during their weary pilgrimage
of four long months over the plains and
mountains, and which was destined to be
the future home of the Saints.
The accompanying illustration is a group
of four of the somewhat celebrated Crow
family, so frequently mentioned in the
recitals from day to day. They are as follows:
Elizabeth Crow, who was born in South
Carolina in 1795 and who died in California
in 1893. Her father was Captain Benjamin
Brown, who served through the revolution,
and a brother of Bishop John Brown, whose
portrait appeared on the date of Monday,
April 22.
The next portrait is Elizabeth Jane Ther-
lkill, her daughter, born in Perry County,
Illinois, and who was still alive in 1897,
living in Auburn, California.
The third portrait is of Isa Minda
Almarene Crow, a twin sister of Isa Vinda
Exene Crow, the two names being ones that
are always remembered by those who have
looked up Utah history. Isa Minda died in
California.
The fourth portrait is of W. P. Crow, Isa Minda Crow W. P. Crow
who left Salt Lake Valley for California in
1849 was, in 1897, a large rancher near lived in Auburn, California, in 1897, was a 11, the sad occurrence casting a gloom over
Auburn. daughter of George W. Therlkill and grand- the entire camp.
The Crow family were at Pueblo during the daughter of Robert Crow, and the second child July 24, 1847, will always be cherished by
winter of 1846-1847 with the invalid detach- born in Salt Lake Valley. Her birth took place the inhabitants of the great west as one of
ment of the Mormon Battalion. The family August 15, 1847. Young Elizabeth Steele, the most important days in the history of the
were members of the Church from Mississippi daughter of John Steele of the Mormon Battal- United States and beginning with July 24,
and were expecting to meet the pioneers on ion and now Mrs. Stately of Kanarra, Utah, was 1849, the anniversary of that day has been
their way to the mountains. In this they were the first white child born in Salt Lake Valley, celebrated with rejoicings and thanksgivings
successful, for they met the pioneer band at her birth occurring August 9, 1847. by all Latter-day Saints and by thousands of
Laramie and came westward with them, being The first death in Salt Lake Valley was others who later have been privileged to make
with the Pratt advance company, the first to another child of George Therlkill and to whom happy and comfortable homes in the valleys
enter the valley. Mrs. Scott was a sister. This child was 3 years of the Rocky Mountains. Pioneer Day (July 24)
The Crow family were pioneers in every old and, wandering away from camp, fell into is recognized in the State of Utah as a legal
sense of the word. Mrs. Hattie A. Scott, who City Creek and was drowned at 5 p.m., August holiday.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
Early Days in the Salt Lake Valley
First week in the Salt Lake Valley
It was noon on July 24, 1847, when the
last of the pioneers, under President Brigham
Young, arrived in Salt Lake Valley. The next day
(Sunday, July 25), the first religious services
were held in the pioneer camp and George A.
Smith preached the first public discourse. The
sacrament also was administered.
On Monday, July 26, President Young and
others ascended Ensign Peak, which on that
occasion was thus named, it being a suitable
place, according to the opinion of the pioneers,
to raise an ensign suggestive of the gathering of
people from all nations.
The following day some Ute Indians visited
the pioneer camp on City Creek. ON the 27th
an exploring expedition was made by Brigham
Young and others, who crossed the outlet of
Utah Lake and named it the Western Jordan.
They then proceeded across the valley to
Black Rock, on the Great Salt Lake, where they
bathed for the first time in waters of the inland
sea, returning to camp the next day.
On the 28th the site for a temple was select-
ed. On the 29th the detachment of the Mormon
Battalion which had wintered in Pueblo, on the
Arkansas River, under Captain James Brown,
arrived in the valley, accompanied by some
Saints from Mississippi. This increased the
number in the camp to about 400.
Summary of Work
A summary of the work of the first week in
the valley, as reported by Colonel Markham,
was as follows:
Three lots of land, aggregating about 53
acres, had been plowed and planted with pota-
toes, peas, beans, cord, oats, buckwheat, gar-
den seeds, etc., and about three acres of corn
and some beans and potatoes were already
beginning to sprout. Thirteen plows and three
harrows had been worked during the week and
various repairs were made to broken imple-
ments. The valley had been explored, several
canyons visited and the first roads made in the
timber. A saw pit had also been constructed
and a large pine log brought down from the
mountains for the purpose of converting it into
lumber to be used for making a skiff.
On Monday, August 16, a party of 71 men,
with 33 wagons, 14 mules, 16 horses and 92
yoke of oxen, left the valley on the return to
Winter Quarters. Tunis Rappleye and Shadrach
Roundy were captains of the first and second
divisions, respectively. This company arrived
at Winter Quarters October 21, having been
away since April 14.
Return to Winter Quarters
On Thursday, August 26, Brigham Young
and party started on the return to Winter Quar-
ters. This company was composed of 108 men
with 36 wagons, 71 horses and 49 mules. They
arrived in Winter Quarters Sunday, October 31,
and were joyfully received by the Saints. Thus
it will be seen that about 200 persons were left
in the valley after the departure of most of the
pioneers for Winter Quarters.
The work of building a fort in what is now
known as Pioneer Square in Salt Lake City
and preparing for their stay and the many that
should follow in the wake of the first company
of pioneers to the valley was the most import-
ant undertaking.
But the little company of 200 did not have to
remain in the valley for very long. The Mormon
emigration that followed the first company
across the plains and through the mountains
to the valley established a rendezvous on the
Elkhorn River, and made preparations to start
for the valley in June 1847. They were divided
into four companies of hundreds and addition-
al military companies as follows:
1. Daniel Spencer’s hundred, under whom
Era Eldredge and Peregrine Sessions
acted as captains of 50.
2. Edward Hunter’s hundred, with Jacob
Foutz and Joseph Horne as captains of
50.
3. Jedediah M. Grant’s hundred, with
Joseph B. Noble and Willard Snow as
captains of 50.
4. Abraham O. Smoot’s hundred, with
George B. Wallace and Samuel Russell as
captains of 50.
The additional company, under the direction
of Captain Charles C. Rich, was somewhat
independent in its organization and was gen-
erally known as the artillery company. It was
not attached to either of the four organizations
of hundreds, but was rather recognized as a
separate or fifth hundred. Apostle Parley P.
Pratt generally traveled with Daniel Spencer’s
hundred and Apostle John Taylor with Edward
Hunter’s hundred.
Captain Wallace’s 50, which may serve as a
sample of all the other similar organizations,
was divided into companies of tens and con-
tained a total of 190 souls, with 85 wagons, 493
oxen and cows, and 14 horses. Divided into five
subdivisions, the proportion was as follows:
First ten — James Smithies, captain; 29 souls,
12 wagons and 84 oxen and cows.
Second ten — Samuel Rolf, captain; 42 souls,
18 wagons, 85 oxen and cows.
Third ten — Joseph Mount, captain; 34 souls,
14 wagons, 66 oxen and cows.
Fourth ten — John Nebeker, captain; 60
souls, 20 wagons, 137 oxen and cows.
Fifth ten — Samuel Turnbow, captain; 35
souls, 20 wagons, 121 oxen and cows.
These companies, consisting of persons
traveling with wagons, horses, mules, oxen and
cows, began to arrive in Salt Lake Valley Sep-
tember 20, 1847, and the last wagons arrived
about October 6.
113
More Battalion Boys
The next arrivals in Salt Lake Valley (fol-
lowing the immigration of the 10 companies
from Winter Quarters in 1847) came from the
west, reaching the valley October 16, 1847.
They were members of the Mormon Battalion
who had been mustered out of service at Los
Angeles, California, the previous July. Hearing
that the pioneers had reached Salt Lake Valley,
they started for the valley, first traveling
north and then east. East of the Sierras they
met Samuel Brannan and Captain James
Brown, who had left the new colony in Salt
Lake Valley shortly after the arrival of the first
pioneers. Brannan was the man who wanted
the Saints to settle in California and tried
unsuccessfully to induce President Young to
abandon his intention of settling in the Great
Basin.
James Brown informed the battalion boys
that it was President Young’s advice that those
of the discharged soldiers who were without
means should remain in California, work
through the winter and come to the valley
with their earnings in the spring. Heeding
this advice, about half the soldiers returned
to California, some going to Sutter’s Mill,
where gold was discovered in January, 1848.
The others continued on to Salt Lake Valley,
bringing with them wheat, corn, potatoes, and
garden seed, which were greatly needed and
highly appreciated by the colonists. Two days
after their arrival 32 of these battalion boys
set out for the Missouri River to rejoin their
families there. They reached their destination,
after many hardships and suffering, Decem-
ber 18, 1847.
The First Offshoot
The first settlement formed outside of Salt
Lake City was at Bountiful (originally known
as the Sessions Settlement), in Davis County.
Peregrine Sessions, who had reached Salt
Lake Valley in September, 1847, first moved
there September 28 of that year, only a few
days after arrival in the valley. The immediate
cause for his leaving the pioneer colony was
to obtain pasturage for his stock, the range
near Salt Lake City being pretty well crowded
already with the stock of the earlier pioneers.
Heber C. Haight followed Elder Sessions, mak-
ing camp about six miles north of the Sessions
settlement, on a stream afterwards known as
Haight’s Creek, a little southwest of the pres-
ent site of Kaysville. Davis County, when later
organized, took its name from Captain Daniel
C. Davis of the Mormon Battalion, who settled
on a creek a little south of the present side of
Farmington.
Other distinguished pioneers of Davis
County were Thomas Grover, Daniel Wood,
A. B. Cherry, Anson Call, John Stoker, Joseph
Holbrook, Nathan T. Porter, William Kay, (first
114
settler of Kaysville), Christopher Layton and
others.
Weber County was the scene of the next
settlement, but its occupation by white men
antedates even the settlement of Salt Lake
Valley by the pioneers. When the latter
reached Salt Lake Valley, Miles M. Goodyear
had a trading post on the Weber River about
two miles above the junction of the Ogden
and Weber Rivers. The fort was located on
the Weber River near a large sand mountain,
about a mile southwest of the present depot
in Ogden. Mr. Goodyear claimed a tract of land
20 miles square, comprising the greater part
of what is now Weber County, by virtue of a
grant from the Mexican government, made to
him in 1841. He had a squaw for a wife and a
few mountaineers and halfbreeds lived with
him at the Goodyear fort when the Mormon
pioneers entered Salt Lake Valley.
Captain James Brown of the sick detach-
ment of the Mormon Battalion, after arriving
in the valley in JUly, 1847, visited Mr. Good-
year on the Weber in August, 1847, on his was
to California, on which occasion it is believed
that Mr. Goodyear offered his property for
sale. In January, 1848, James Brown, who had
returned from California with money due his
company of the Mormon Battalion for their
services, purchased the Goodyear fort for
about $3,000 in Spanish gold. This was the
beginning of the city of Ogden.
In the early part of 1848 the infant set-
tlement in Salt Lake Valley was recruited by
the arrival of several parties of disbanded
Mormon Battalion from California. Some
of them brought bags of gold dust from the
newly found mines of California and this was
used as money by the settlers. One company
brought in two brass cannons, purchased for
$512, which were later used as a means of
defense against Indians.
The discovery of gold in California, near
Sutter’s Mill, on the American River, took
place January 24, 1848, and among the
discoverers were six “Mormons” who were
among the men employed by James W.
Marshall, Mr. Sutter’s business partner, who
found the first particles of gold. The names of
these six men were Alexander Stevens, James
S. Brown, James Barger, William Johnston,
Azariah Smith, Israel Evans, and Henry W.
Bigler.
In August, 1848, the people living in the
fort in Salt Lake Valley numbered about 1,800,
and the next month the number was greatly
increased by the arrival of the second year’s
immigration from the east. This immigration,
as well as the one of 1847, was planned by
President Young, and the different companies
constituting the expedition left the Elkhorn
River in the early part of June, 1848. It con-
sisted of three distinct divisions. The first of
these was led by Brigham Young in person
and numbered 1,229 people with 397 wagons.
Heber C. Kimball had charge of the second
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
division, which comprised 662 people and
226 wagons. Willard Richards brought up the
rear with 526 people and 169 wagons, the last
wagon leaving Winter Quarters July 3, 1848.
With the departure of these emigrants
for the west, Winter Quarters was nearly
deserted, and Kanesville, east of the Missou-
ri River, grew up and became the outfitting
place for the “Mormon” emigrants who came
across the ocean and up the Mississippi River
by steamboats the following years. Kanesville
was built on the present site of the city of
Council Bluffs.
In General Command
Brigham Young had general command of all
the companies in 1848, and Daniel H. Wells
was his aide-de-camp. Horace S. Eldredge was
marshal and Hosea Stout was captain of the
night guard in President Young’s division.
Among other notable people with the emi-
gration of 1848 were Lorenzo Snow, Franklin
D. Richards, Joseph F. Smith (then a lad of
9 years), his mother, Mary Fielding Smith
(who drove her own ox team); Bishop Newel
K. Whitney and wife (Elizabeth Ann), Vilate
Kimball, Mary Ann Angell Young, Robert T.
Burton, George D. Grant, Willam Kay, and
Phineas Richards.
The companies of 1848 pursued the route
followed by the pioneers of 1847, and on Sep-
tember 20, 1848, the advance teams of that
year’s emigration from the east reached Salt
Lake Valley under the leadership of Brigham
Young. Heber C. Kimball’s company arrived
a few days later and within a month all the
trains reached the valley. Willard Richards’
company lost many cattle on the alkali flats
on the Sweetwater, and this so impeded the
march that teams from the valley were sent
back to help the rear trains.
The emigration of 1848, which numbered
nearly 2,500, increased the population in
the valley to nearly 5,000 people, including
those who arrived from the west. How to feed
them through the winter was the problem.
The harvest of 1848 had been nearly ruined
by the devastation of the Rocky Mountain
crickets and would have been a total failure
had not gulls from the lake appeared and
devoured the crickets. By living on short
rations, sharing food one with another, and
even eating rawhides, sego lily roots and
thistles, the people managed to eke out their
existence during the winter, which was very
severe, Cold weather lasted from December 1,
1848, to late in February, 1849, and on the 5th
of the latter month the mercury dropped to 33
degrees below zero.
Most of the people lived in the stockade or
fort until the spring of 1849, although a few
had moved out and built on their city logs in
1848. A vast field of 8,000 acres was surveyed
south of the city, divided into five-acre and
ten-acre lots, and these were distributed to
the people by lot, the only cost being a small
fee to pay the surveyor. During the spring of
1849 nearly all the people moved out of the
stockade, and, as the city grew and extended,
the fort gradually disappeared. Soon there
was nothing left to show where it had stood,
except a few adobe walls.
Settling Utah Valley
In March, 1849, the settlement of Utah
Valley was undertaken. The man chosen to
head the colony was John S. Higbee, one of
the original pioneers. At the head of about
30 families, with wagons, horses, cows, work
cattle, farming and building implements, seed
and provisions, he set out from Salt Lake City
early in March to found a settlement on the
Provo River, whose stream was called Timpa-
nogos. This company of settlers soon reached
the river, where they located their settlement,
naming it Fort Utah, but soon after changed
its name to Provo. A fort was soon completed
and 225 acres planted with wheat, rye, and
corn. Notwithstanding some trouble with the
Indians, the settlement flourished.
Sanpete Settlement
The first settlement in Sanpete Valley was
in November, 1849, by a company headed by
Isaac Morley, Charles Shumway and Seth Taft.
They formed their settlement near the present
site of Manti, a name taken from the Book of
Mormon. Sanpete is a corruption of Sanpitch,
the name of a noted Indian chief of the Ute
nation.
Tooele Valley Settlement
The settlement of Tooele Valley was not
made by an organized company. John Rowber-
ry, who is popularly regarded as the pioneer
of Tooele County, went there from Salt Lake
City in December, 1849, his object being to
find better grazing land for his stock. Several
weeks before his arrival, however, a party of
men in the employ of Ezra T. Benson, who was
also Rowberry’s employer, went to Settlement
Creek, a little south of the present site of
Tooele City. One of these men was Phineas
R. Wright, a millwright. Their purpose was
to build a mill near the mouth of Settlement
Creek Canyon, and there Rowberry joined
them. A footnote in Whitney’s History says:
“Francis H. Lougy of Tooele, who was but a
little boy when he went there in 1849 with his
stepfather, Phineas R. Wright, states that five
families went together immediately on the ad-
journment of the October conference in 1849.
The names of the heads of these families he
gives as follows: Phineas R. Wright, Cyrus
Call, Judson Tolman, Sam Mecham, Orson
Brafett, and the mother of Eli B. Kelsey. Mrs.
Kelsey had no family with her at the time.
Tooele Valley was named after the tule (pro-
nounced tooly), a Mexican Indian name for a
variety of bullrush abundant in that locality. It
was misspelled “Tooele” by Thomas Bullock,
the pioneer clerk, in a public document of
that period, and the orthography has since
remained unchanged.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
More Settlements
The year 1850 saw many new settlements
coming into existence. Among these were
Centerville, Farmington, and Kaysville in
Davis County; Lynne, Slaterville, North Og-
den, Easton, Harrisville, and Mound Fort in
Weber County; and Spanish Fork, Springville,
Payson, Lehi, American Fork, Pleasant Grove,
and Alpine in Utah County, etc.
Another colonizing scheme of importance
was the settlement of Iron County, undertaken
in December, 1850. The expedition in charge
of George A. Smith was organized on Peteet-
neet Creek, in Utah County. It consisted of a
company of more than 100 volunteers, accom-
panied by about 30 families. Their objective
point was the valley of the Little Salt Lake, a
spot visited by Parley P. Pratt’s exploring expe-
dition a year before and reported by him as an
eligible site for a settlement.
Smith’s company included 25 cavalry,
32 infantry, and 13 artillerymen, besides a
camp guard. The artillery manned one brass
fieldpiece. In January, 1851, they arrived on
the stream known as Center Creek, where
they located the town of Parowan, now in Iron
County. As usual, a fort was built, and all the
settlers lived for several years within its wales
for protection against the Indians.
The cities of Salt Lake, Ogden, Provo, Manti,
and Parowan were chartered by act of the
General Assembly of Deseret in 1851.
Box Elder County was settled in March,
1851, by Simeon Carter and others. In Sep-
tember of the same year Joseph L. Heywood
and a few families began a settlement on the
present dite of Nephi, Juab County.
Millard County was settled by Anson Call
and 30 families in the fall of 1851. Chalk
Creek, in the Pauvan Valley, was the scene of
the settlement, and here, in October, 1851, an
official commission laid out and located a city.
The territorial legislature had located the cap-
ital of Utah in that section of country and had
named it Fillmore, and the county Millard,
in honor of President Millard Fillmore. The
exact location was left to a commission to be
appointed by Governor Young. The commis-
sioners chosen were Orson Pratt, Albert Card-
ington, Jesse W. Fox, William C. Staines, and
Joseph L. Robinson. Governor Young, Heber
C. Kimball, George A. Smith, and others ac-
companied the commission to Millard County
and assisted in the selection of the site of Fill-
more. This county was chosen for the capital
solely on account of its being geographically
central, but was afterward abandoned, as the
bulk of the population in Utah was contained
in the northern counties.
Carson County, now in Nevada, also was
settled in 1851 by Colonel John Reese and
others, who located at Genoa. Hampden S.
Beatie was one of the pioneers there. In 1855
missionaries from Salt Lake City, under Orson
Hyde, further colonized and organized Carson
County.
Later Settlements
Other settlements were formed by Lat-
ter-day Saints as follows: Washington County
was first settled by a ranch on Ash Creek in
1852; the cotton region of the country was
settled by Jacob Hamblin in 1855 and Joseph
Horne in Heberville in 1857. Robert D. Cov-
ington and 33 others founded Washington in
1857, and Joshua P. Willis located Toquerville
in 1858.
Early in 1853 Summit County was settled
by Samuel Snyder, who had previously built
sawmills in Parley’s Park.
In January, 1854, the legislature created the
counties of Summit, Green River, and Carson.
Green River County was settled by a compa-
ny under Orson Hyde in November, 1853.
The expedition consisted of two parties, one
from Salt Lake City and one from Utah Valley.
John Nebeker and Isaac Bullock were among
the leaders of this movement. The company
founded Fort Supply, on Smith’s Fork of Green
115
River. About this time also, President Brigham
Young purchased Fort Bridger, which was
the first property on the Green River slope
owned by the Saints. This part of the country
now constitutes a part of Wyoming. Gover-
nor Young’s purchase was made from James
Bridger, who held the place under a Mexican
grant. Subsequently, in 1857, the United
States government took possession of Fort
Bridger and made it a military post.
Cache County was settled in 1856 by Peter
Maughan and others at Wellsville, and Beaver
County was settled the same year by Simeon
Howd and 12 others from Parowan.
Kane County was settled in 1858 by Nephi
Johnson and six others, who were located in
Virgin City (now in Washington County).
Rich County was settled in 1863 by Charles
C. Rich and many others.
In 1855, a colony, led by Alfred N. Billings
left Sanpete for the Elk Mountains, where
they formed a settlement called Moab, on the
Grand River (now Colorado River). In May
of the same year, a colony under Thomas S.
Smith founded Fort Limhi on a tributary of the
Salmon River. This latter settlement was the
first Anglo-Saxon settlement in what is now
Idaho.
Morgan County was settled by Jedediah M.
Grant and Thomas Thurston in the spring of
1856.
Wasatch County was settled by some 20
men from Spanish Fork and American Fork
(and a few from other places), in 1859.
It is estimated that previous to the demise
of President Brigham Young in August, 1877,
nearly 300 settlements of Latter-day Saints
had sprung up under his direction in the
Rocky Mountains, including all the princi-
pal settlements of Utah, and many others
in Idaho, Wyoming, Colorado, Nevada, New
Mexico, and California. These settlements had
been properly organized into stakes of Zion,
bishops, wards, etc.
116
Index of the 1847 pioneers
Following is a complete list of the pioneers
of President Brigham Young’s company of
1847. It gives the place and time of birth and
death of most of the members. The portraits of
many of these pioneers have been published
in the series just concluded, and whenever
done so is designated in this index under the
date of publication:
ADAMS, Barnaba L., born August 28, 1812,
near Perth, Upper Canada; died June 2, 1869,
in Salt Lake City. Portrait, May 14.
ALLEN, Rufus, born March 22, 1814, in
Litchfield, Connecticut; died in Ogden in the
winter of 1888-1889.
ANGELL, Truman Osborn, born June 5,
1810, in Providence, Rhode Island; died
October 16, 1887, in Salt Lake City. Portrait,
May 10.
ATWOOD, Millen, born May 24, 1817, in
Wellington, Tolland County, Connecticut; died
December 17, 1890, in Salt Lake City. Portrait,
May 28.
BADGER, Rodney, born February 4, 1823,
in Waterford, Caledonia County, Vermont;
drowned in the Weber River, Utah, April 29,
1853.
BAIRD, Robert Erving, born May 15, 1817,
in Londonderry, Ireland; died August 24,
1875, in Lynne, near Ogden.
BARNEY, Lewis, born September 8, 1808, in
Niagara County, New York; died November 5,
1894, in Mancos, Colorado. Portrait, June 12.
BARNUM, Charles D., born May 9, 1800,
in Brockville, Leeds County, Canada; died
September 9, 1894, in Salt Lake City. Portrait,
May 20.
BENSON, Ezra Taft, born February 22, 1811,
in Mendon, Worcester County Massachusetts;
died September 3, 1869, in Ogden. Portrait,
April 4.
BILLINGS, George Pierce, born July 25,
1827, in Kirtland, Ohio; died December 2,
1896, in Manti. Portrait, June 14.
BOGGS, Francis, born May 17, 1807, in
Belmont County, Ohio; died January 22, 1889,
in Washington, Washington County, Utah.
BROWN, George Washinton, born January
25, 1827, in Newburg, Cuyahoga County,
Ohio; died December 20, 1906, in Charleston,
Wasatch County. Portrait, May 8.
BROWN, John, born October 23, 1820, in
Sumner County, Tennessee; died NOvember
4, 1896, in Pleasant Grove. Portrait, April 20.
BROWN, Nathaniel Thomas, was shot at
Council Bluffs, Iowa, in February, 1848.
BULLOCK, Thomas, born December 23,
1816, in Leek, Staffordshire, England; died
February 10, 1885, in Coalville, Summit Coun-
ty, Utah. Portrait, June 14.
BURK, Charles Allen, born September 2,
1823, in Kirtland, Ohio; died February 26,
1888, at Minersville, Beaver County, Utah,
Portrait, July 15.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
BURNHAM, Jacob, died in California in
1850.
CARRINGTON, Albert, born January 8,
1813, in Royalton, Windsor County, Vermont;
died September 19, 1889, in Salt Lake City.
Portrait, May 3.
CARTER, William, born February 12, 1821,
in Ledbury, Herefordshire, England; died June
22, 1896, in St. George. Portrait, May 18.
CASE, James, born May 4, 1794, in Litch-
field County, Connecticut; died in Sanpete
County, Utah, in 1858.
CHAMBERLAIN, Solomon, born in 1788,
in Old Canaan, Connecticut; died March 26,
1862, in Washington County, Utah.
CHESLEY, Alexander P., born October 22,
1814, in Fauquier County, Virginia; lived in
San Juan Valley, California, when last heard
from.
CLAYTON, William, born July 17, 1814,
in Penwortham, Lancashire, England; died
December 4, 1879, in Salt Lake City, Utah.
Portrait, April 13.
CLOWARD, Thomas P., born December 10,
1823, in Chester County, Pennsylvania; died
January 16, 1909, in Payson, Utah County.
Portrait, May 15.
COLTRIN, Zebedee, born September 7,
1801, at Ovid, Seneca County, New York; died
July 21, 1867, at Spanish Fork. Portrait, June
13.
CRAIGH, James, born in 1821 in Ireland;
died in 1866 at Santa Clara, Washington
County, Utah. He was the bugler of the pio-
neer camp.
CROSBY, Oscar (negro), born about 1815 in
Virginia; died in 1870 in Los Angeles.
CURTIS, Lyman, born January 21, 1812, in
New Salem, Franklin County, Massachusetts;
died August 6, 1898, in Salem, Utah County.
Portrait July 8.
CUSHING, Hosea, born April 2, 1826, in
Boston Massachusetts; died in 1864 in Salt
Lake City.
DAVENPORT, James, born May 1, 1802, at
Danville, Caledonia County, Vermont; died
about 1885 at Richmond, Cache County.
Portrait, July 19.
DECKER, Isaac Perry, born August 7, 1840,
in Winchester, Scott County, Illinois; died
January 24, 1916 in Provo. He was one of the
two children of the pioneer camp. Portrait,
July 23.
DEWEY, Benjamin Franklin, born May 5,
1829, in Westfield, Hampden County, Massa-
chusetts; died February 23, 1904, in Chloride,
Arizona. Portrait, May 12.
DIXON, John, born July 26, 1818, in Cum-
berland, England; killed by Indians August 17,
1853 near Parley’s Park, Summit County.
DRIGGS, Starling Graves, born February 12,
1822, in Pennsylvania; died December 3, 1860,
in Parowan, Iron County. Portrait, July 2.
DYKES, William, born November 18, 1815,
in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania; died November
24, 1879, in Nebraska.
EARL, Sylvester H. born August 16, 1815,
in Scioto County, Ohio; died July 23, 1873, in
St. George.
EASTMAN, Ozro French, born November
18, 1828, in Windham County, Vermont; died
March 26, 1916, at Idaho Falls, Idaho. Portrait,
May 6.
EGAN, Howard, born June 15, 1815, at
Tullamore, Kings County, Ireland; died March
16, 1878, in Salt Lake City.
EGBERT, Joseph, born March 10, 1818, in
Sullivan County, Indiana; died May 24, 1898,
in Ogden, Portrait, July 7.
ELDREDGE, John S., born in 1821 in
Canaan, Columbia County, New York; died
May 7, 1873, in Charlston, Wasatch County.
Portrait, June 28.
ELLSWORTH, Edmund, born July 1, 1819,
in Paris, Oneida County, New York; died De-
cember 29, 1893, in Showlow, Arizona.
EMPEY, William A., born July 4, 1808, in
Osnabrook Township, County of Stormont,
Canada; died August 19, 1890, in St. George.
Portrait, May 19.
ENSIGN, Horace Datus, born August 8,
1826, in Westfield, Hampden County, Massa-
chusetts; died September 1, 1866, in Ogden.
EVERETT, Addison, born October 10, 1805,
in Wallkill, Orange County, New York; died
January 12, 1885, in St. George. Portrait, July 4.
FAIRBANKS, Nathaniel, born May 10, 1823,
at Queensbury, Washington County, New
York; died through drowning in California in
1853. Portrait, July 23.
FARR, Aaron F., born October 31, 1818, at
Waterford, Caledonia County, Vermont; died
November 8, 1903, at Logan. Portrait, April 19.
FITZGERALD, Perry, born December 22,
1815, in Fayette County, Pennsylvania; died
October 4, 1889, at Draper. Portrait, May 23.
FLAKE, Green (negro), born January, 1828,
as a slave in Anson County, North Carolina;
died October 20, 1903, at Idaho Falls, Idaho.
Portrait, May 31.
FOWLER, John S., went to California in
1848 and subsequently died there.
FOX, Samuel Bradford, born December 4,
1829, at Adams, Jefferson County, New York,
and resided in Oregon when last heard from.
FREEMAN, John M., died of cholera in Car-
son Valley, Nevada, in 1850.
FRINK, Horace Monroe, lived in San Ber-
nardino, California, when last heard from.
FROST, Burr, born March 4, 1816, at Wa-
terbury, Connecticut; died March 16, 1878, in
Salt Lake City. Portrait, July 3.
GIBBONS, Andrew S., born March 12,
1825, in Union Township, Licking County,
Ohio; died February 9, 1886, in Moan Coppy,
Arizona.
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847
GLEASON, John Streater, born January
13, 1819, in Livonia, Livingston County, New
York; died December 21, 1904, at Pleasant
Grove. Portrait, May 2.
GLINES, Eric, resided in St. George, Utah,
when last heard from.
GODDARD, Stephen H., born August 24,
1810, in Champlain, Clinton County, New
York; died September 10, 1898, at San Ber-
nardino, California. Portrait, June 24.
GRANT, David, born July 21, 1816, at Ar-
broath, Forfarshire, Scotland; died December
22, 1868, in Mill Creek, Salt Lake County.
GRANT, George R., lived in Virginia City,
Nevada, when last heard from.
GREENE, John Young, born September 2,
1826, in New York; died May 24, 1880, in Salt
Lake City. Portrait, July 20.
GROVER, Thomas, born July 22, 1807, in
Whitehall, Washington County, New York;
died February 20, 1886, in Farmington. Por-
trait, May 22.
HANCOCK, Joseph, born March 17, 1800,
in Springfield, Massachusetts; died July 4,
1893, in Payson.
HANKS, Sidney Alvarus, born August 16,
1820, in Maddison, Lake County, Ohio; froze
to death in Parley’s Park, Summit County, in
April, 1870.
HANSEN, Hans Christian, born November
23, 1806, in Copenhagen, Denmark; died
October 10, 1890, in Salina.
HARMON, Appleton M., born May 29, 1820,
in Conneaut, Pennsylvania; died before May,
1877, in Holden, Millard County. Portrait,
July 5.
HARPER, Charles Alfred, born January
27, 1816, in Upper Providence, Montgomery
County, Pennsylvania; died April 24, 1900, in
Big Cottonwood, Salt Lake County. Portrait,
May 30.
HENRIE, William, born September 11,
1799, in Pennsylvania; died in Bountiful.
HIGBEE, John S., born March 7, 1804, in
Tate Township, Clermont County, Ohio; died
November 1, 1877, in Toquerville, Washing-
ton County. Portrait, July 6.
HOLMAN, John Greenleaf, born October 18,
1828, in Byron Centre, Genesee County, New
York; died November 5, 1888, in Rexburg,
Fremont County, Idaho. Portrait, May 5.
HOWD, Simeon, born in 1813 in Camden,
New York; died in 1862 in Beaver County.
Portrait, June 3.
IVORY, Matthew, was killed at Beaver, Utah,
in the beginning of 1885.
JACKMAN, Levi, born July 28, 1797, in
Berkshire, Orange County, Vermont; died July
23, 1876, in Salem, Utah. Portrait, May 7.
JACOB, Norton, born August 11, 1804, in
Sheffield, Berkshire, Massachusetts; died
January 30, 1879, at Glenwood, Sevier County.
Portrait, June 3.
JOHNSON, Artemas, died in Utah many
years ago.
JOHNSON, Luke S., born November 3, 1807,
in Pomfret, Windsor County, Vermont; died
December 9, 1861, in Salt Lake City.
JOHNSON, Philo, born December 6, 1815,
in Newton, Fairfield County, Connecticut; he
was still alive in 1897 and lived in Payson.
Portrait, July 9.
KELSEY, Stephen, born December 23, 1830,
in Montville, Geauga County, Ohio; died May
22, 1900, in Paris, Idaho. Portrait, July 16.
KENDALL, Levi N., born April 9, 1822, in
Lockport, Niagara County, New York; died
March 10, 1903, in Springville. Portrait, June 5.
KLEINMAN, Conrad, born April 19, 1815,
in Germany; died November 12, 1907, at St.
George. Portrait, June 30.
KIMBALL, Ellen Sanders, born in 1824 in
Telemarken, Norway; died November 22,
1871, in Salt Lake City. She was one of the
three pioneer women who accompanied the
pioneers. She was the wife of Heber C. Kim-
ball. Portrait, April 10.
KIMBALL, Heber Chase, born June 14,
1801, in Sheldon, Franklin County, Vermont;
died June 22, 1868, in Salt Lake City, as First
Counselor to President Brigham Young. Por-
trait, April 6.
KING, William A., died in Boston, Mas-
sechucetts in 1862.
LAY, Hark, (negro), born about 1825 in
Mississippi; died about 1890 in Union, Salt
Lake County.
LEWIS, Tarlton, born May 18, 1805, in
Pendleton District, South Carolina; died No-
vember 22, 1890, in Teasdale, Piute County,
Utah. He was the first bishop of Salt Lake City.
Portrait, June 9.
LITTLE, Jesse Carer, born September 26,
1815, in Belmont, Waldo County, Maine; died
December 26, 1893, in Salt Lake City. Portrait,
April 28.
LOSEE, Franklin G., born in 1815 in Bel-
mont, Waldo County, Maine, and resided in
Lehi.
LOVELAND, Chancey, born August 1, 1797,
in Glasgow, Connecticut; died August 16,
1876, in Bountiful. Portrait, June 10.
LYMAN, Amasa M., born March 30, 1813, in
Lyman Township, Grafton County, New Hamp-
shire; died February 4, 1877, in Fillmore.
Portrait, June 23.
MARBLE, Samuel Harvey, born October 6,
1822, in Phelps, Ontario County, New York;
died March 16, 1914, in Stanley, Arizona.
MARKHAM, Stephen, born February 9,
1800, in Avon, Ontario County, New York; died
March 17, 1878, in Spanish Fork.
MATTHEWS, Joseph, born January 29,
1809, in Johnson County, North Caroina; died
May 14, 1886, in Graham County, Arizona.
MILLS, George, died August 29, 1854, in
Salt Lake City.
MURRAY, Carlos, was killed by Indians on
the Humboldt River, Nevada, in 1855.
NEWMAN, Elijah, born September 17,
1873, in Hampshire County, Virginia; died
December 12, 1872, in Parowan, Iron County.
117
NORTON, John Wesley, born November 6,
1820, near Lisbon, Henry County, Indiana;
died October 20, 1901, in Panguitch. Portrait,
May 13.
OWEN, Seeley, resided once in Wallsburg,
Wasatch County, Utah; died in Flagstaff,
Arizona, in 1881, while working on the Atlan-
tic-Pacific Railroad.
PACK, John, born May 20, 1809, in St. John,
New Burnswick, Canada; died April 4, 1885, in
Salt Lake City. Portrait, May 16.
PEIRCE, Eli Harvey, born July 29, 1827, in
Chester County, Pennsylvania; died August
12, 1858, in Salt Lake City. Portrait, May 17.
POMEROY, Francis M., born February 22,
1822, at Somers, Tollard County, Connecticut;
died October 29, 1882, in Mesa, Maricopa
County, Arizona. Portrait, June 27.
POWELL, David, born May 26, 1822, in
Edgefield District, South Carolina; living in the
state of Mississippi when last heard from.
PRATT, Orson, born September 19, 1811, in
Harford, Washington County, New York; died
October 3, 1881, in Salt Lake City. Portrait,
May 9 and July 21.
RAPPLEYE, Tunis, born in 1807 in the state
of New York; died December 25, 1883, in
Kanosh. Portrait, July 12.
REDDEN, Return Jackson, born September
26, 1816, in Portage County, Ohio; died August
30, 1881, in Hoytsville. Portrait, June 29.
RICHARDS, Willard, born June 24, 1804, in
Hopkinton, Middlesex County, Massachusetts;
died March 11, 1854, in Salt Lake City, as Sec-
ond Counselor to President Brigham Young.
Portrait, April 21.
ROCKWELL, Orrin Porter, born June 25,
1815, in the state of New York; died June 9,
1878, in Salt Lake City. Portrait, April 24.
ROCKWOOD, Albert P., born June 5, 1805,
in Holliston, Middlesex County, Massachu-
setts; died November 26, 1879, in Sugarhouse
Ward, Salt Lake City. Portrait, June 6.
ROLFE, Benjamin Williams, born October
7, 1822, in Romford, Oxford County, Maine;
died May 31, 1892, in Salt Lake City. Portrait,
July 18.
ROOKER, Joseph, went to California at an
early day, where he still resided when last
heard from in 1857. Portrait, June 4.
ROUNDY, Shadrach, born January 1, 1789,
in Windham County, Vermont; died July 4,
1872, in Salt Lake City. Portrait, April 25.
SCHOLES, George, born February 2, 1812,
in Chadderton, Lancashire, England; died
August 14, 1857, in Lehi.
SCOFIELD, Joseph Smith, born August 2,
1809, in Windham County, New York; died
March 8, 1875, in Bellevue, Washington
County. Portrait, May 4.
SHERWOOD, Henry G., died in San Ber-
nardino, California, before 1862.
SHUMWAY, Andrew Purley, born February
20, 1833, at Millbury, Worcester County, Mas-
sachusetts; died June 12, 1909, at Franklin,
Idaho. Portrait, May 25.
118 Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847

SHUMWAY, Charles, born August 1, 1806, VANCE, William Perkins, born October 20, was the wife of Lorenzo D. Young. Portrait,
in Oxford, Worcester County, Massachusetts; 1822, in Jackson County, Tennessee; died De- April 10.
died May 21, 1898, at Shumway, near Snow- cember 5, 1914, in Lund, White Pine County, YOUNG, Lorenzo Dow, born October 19,
flake, Arizona. Portrait, May 25. Nevada. Portrait, July 17. 1807, in Smyrna, Chenango County, New
SMITH, George Albert, born June 26, 1817, WALKER, Henson, born March 13, 1820, in York; died November 21, 1895, in Salt Lake
in Potsdam, St. Lawrence County, New York; Manchester, Ontario County, New York; died City. He was a brother of President Brigham
died September 1, 1875, in Salt Lake City, as January 24, 1904, in Pleasant Grove. Portrait, Young. Portrait, April 12.
First Counselor to President Brigham Young. April 22. YOUNG, Lorenzo Sobieski, born March 9,
Portrait, April 11. WARDLE, George, born February 3, 1820, in 1841, in Winchester, Morgan County, Illinois;
SMOOT, William C. A., born January 30, Chadelton Parish, Staffordshire, England; died died March 28, 1924, in Shelly, Idaho. He was
1828, in Roance County, Tennessee; died November 25, 1901, in Vernal, Uintah County, the last survivor of President Brigham Young’s
January 31, 1920, in Salt Lake City. Portrait, Utah. Portrait, June 26. original pioneer company. Portrait, June 25.
April 17. WADSWORTH, William Shin, born March YOUNG, Phineas Howe, born February 16,
SNOW, Erastus, born November 9, 1818, 5, 1810, at Woodston, Salem County, New 1799, in Hopkinton, Middlesex County, Mas-
in St. Johnsbury, Caledonia County, Vermont; Jersey; died January 18, 1888, in Springville. sachusetts; died October 10, 1879, in Salt Lake
died May 27, 1888, in Salt Lake City. Portrait, Portrait, June 8. City. He was a brother of President Brigham
May 26 and July 21. WEILER, Jacob, born March 14, 1808, near Young. Portrait, April 12.
STEVENS, Roswell, born October 17, 1809, Churchtown, Lancashire County, Pennsylva-
Additional Illustrations
on the Grande River, Upper Canada; died May nia; died March 24, 1896, in Salt Lake City.
Arrival of Pioneers in
4, 1880, at Bluff City, San Juan County. Portrait, April 27.
Great Salt Lake Valley July 24
STEWART, Benjamin Franklin, born Octo- WHEELER, John, born February 3, 1802, in
Buffaloes, Hunting May 1
ber 22, 1817, on the banks of the Ohio River, Kean County, South Carolina; went to Califor-
Chimney Rock May 24
Jackson Township, Monroe County, Ohio; nia at an early day and there became lost to
Church Buttes July 2
killed by lightning June 22, 1885, at Benjamin, the knowledge of his former friends.
Crow, Elizabeth July 25
Utah County. Portrait, May 29. WHIPPLE, Edson, born February 5, 1805,
Crow, Isa Minda July 25
STEWART, James W., born May 19, 1825, in at Dummerston, Windham County, Vermont;
Crow, W. P. July 25
Fayette County, Alabama; died March 22, 1913, died May 11, 1894, at Colonia Juarez, Chihua-
Crow, Walter H. July 17
in Cokeville, Wyoming. Portrait, June 17. hua, Mexico.
Elkhorn Ferry April 15
STRINGHAM, Briant, born March 28, 1825, WHITNEY, Horace Kimball, born July 25,
Emigrant Camp on the Platte June 7
at Windsor, Broome County, New York; died 1830, in Kirtland, Ohio; died July 31, 1884, in
Emigrant Train June 7
August 4, 1871, in Salt Lake City. Salt Lake City. Portrait, July 11
Fort Laramie June 1
SUMME, Gilbroid, born August 22, 1802, in WILLIAMS, Almon S., born August 2, 1837,
Giant’s Butte on Green River July 1
Randolph County, North Carolina; went to Cal- in Caldwell County, Missouri; when last heard
Grant, George David July 16
ifornia and has never been heard from since. from he lived in Kamas, Summit County.
Grant, Jedediah M. June 19
TAFT, Seth, born August 11, 1796, in Men- WOODRUFF, Wilford, born March 1, 1807,
Independence Rock June 21
don, Worcestershire County, Massachusetts; in Farmington, Hartford County, Connecticut;
Laramie Peak June 2
died November 23, 1863, in Salt Lake City. died September 2, 1998, in San Francisco, Cal-
Loupe Fork Ferry April 23
TANNER, Thomas, born March 31, 1804, in ifornia, as the fourth President of the Church.
Missouri River Ferry Across April 9
Bristol, Gloucestershire, England; died August Portrait, April 7.
Pioneer Encampment April 18
2, 1855, in Salt Lake City. WOOLSEY, Thomas, born November 3,
Pioneer Wagon Train April 16,
TAYLOR, Norman, born in 1828 in Grafton, 1805, in Pulaski County, Kentucky; died Janu-
May 24
Loraine County, Ohio; died November 25, ary 5, 1897, in Wales, Sanpete County.
Pratt, Parley P. April 8
1899, in Moab. Portrait, May 27. YOUNG, Brigham, born June 1, 1801, in
Pulpit Rock July 14
THOMAS, Robert T., born January 8, 1822, Whitingham, Windham County, Vermont;
Red Butte June 20
in Richmond, North Carolina; died February died August 29, 1877, in Salt Lake City, as the
Route of the Mormon Pioneers Title Page,
28, 1892, in Provo. Portrait, May 21. second President of the Church. Portrait, April
April 26-July 22
THORNTON, Horace, born May 7, 1822, at 5 and 12.
Salt Lake Valley in 1847 July 22
Hindsdale, Cattaraugus County, New York; died YOUNG, Clarissa Decker, born July 22,
Spencer, Daniel June 18
March 21, 1914, at Manti. Portrait, May 11. 1828, in Freedom, Cattaraugus County, New
Therlkill, Elizabeth Jane July 25
THORPE, Marcus B., born June 12, 1822; York; died January 5, 1889, in Salt Lake City.
Upper Platte, Banks of June 11
killed January 19, 1849, in California. She was the wife of President Brigham Young.
Witches Rocks July 13
TIPPITS, John Harvey, born September 5, Portrait, April 10.
Wood River, Camp on April 29
1810, in Wittingham, Rockingham County, YOUNG, Harriet Page Wheeler, born Sep-
Young, John April 12
New Hampshire; died February 14, 1890, in tember 7, 1803, in Hillsboro, New Hampshire;
Young, Joseph April 12
Farmington. Portrait, July 10. died December 22, 1871, in Salt Lake City. She
Day By Day With the Utah Pioneers 1847 119