THE SWING SKIRT:

Techniques & Construction

with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making
 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

About Natalie Chanin & The School Of Making

About Natalie Chanin
Natalie “Alabama” Chanin is the founder and creative
director of Alabama Chanin. She was born and raised
in Florence, Alabama, where her company is based.
After graduating from North Carolina State University
with a degree in Environmental Design with a focus on
industrial and craft-based textiles, Natalie worked in
the junior sportswear industry on New York’s Seventh
Avenue before moving abroad to work as a stylist and
costume designer.
Chanin returned to her Southern home in 2001 and
founded Alabama Chanin, including its educational
arm, The School of Making, soon after. Chanin strives
to achieve complete sustainability at every stage of the
manufacturing process — from materials and process,
to cultural sustainability in the form of preserving hand-
sewing skills.
In 2013, Chanin won the CFDA/Lexus Eco-Fashion
Challenge, an award celebrating the greatest American
designers working in the realm of sustainable fashion.
Chanin continues to learn and to teach craft traditions,
using them to bridge generational, economic and
cultural gaps.
fabric, paper patterns, stencils, threads, beads, tools
and more; and learn more about live workshops and
the Host a Party program.
Books by Natalie Chanin
Natalie’s Alabama Studio Book Series has open-sourced
the techniques and materials used in her unique
garments, making living arts accessible to all.
• Alabama Stitch Book by Natalie Chanin with Stacie
Stukin (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2008)
• Alabama Studio Sewing + Design by Natalie Chanin
(Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2012)
• Alabama Studio Sewing Patterns: A Guide to
Customizing a Hand-Stitched Alabama Chanin
Wardrobe by Natalie Chanin (Abrams, 2015) (includes
CD with patterns)
• Alabama Studio Style by Natalie Chanin (Stewart,
Tabori & Chang, 2010)
• The Geometry of Hand-Sewing: A Romance in Stitches
and Embroidery from Alabama Chanin and The School
of Making by Natalie Chanin (Abrams, 2017)

About The School of Making

The School of Making directs and innovates Alabama
Chanin’s learning initiatives and educational programs,
including Studio Style DIY, Build a Wardrobe, and
workshop programming, format and content. Through
The School of Making website, visitors can order kits;
materials and supplies including organic cotton jersey

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 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

Size Chart

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 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

Order of Construction

1. Trace the pattern piece and cut out the traced
pattern piece.
2. Using the traced pattern piece, cut out four panels
in the top-layer fabric.
3. Trace the top-layer fabric pieces onto the
backing-layer fabric.
4. Cut out the backing layer.
5. Stencil the top layer panels as desired. Let dry.
9. To construct the skirt, pin seams (remembering to
pin at waist and lower edge first) with right sides
together.
10. Join panels with a running-stitch ¼" seam, using a
wrap stitch at the beginning and end of each seam.
11. Fell-stitch the seam, if desired.
12. Place and pin the fold-over elastic over the
waistline and attach with a zigzag stitch.

6. With right sides of backing layers and right sides
of top layers facing up, align and pin the panels
together.
7. Baste the waistline of each panel to
prevent stretching.
8. Embellishment each panel with your
chosen technique.
You'll have many design decisions to make for your unique
garment. The Design Decisions Worksheet on page 6-8 can be
helpful as you make choices. The sample skirt shown in class
uses Button Craft thread in Slate, The School of Making Textile
Paint in Fog for the Magdalena stencil, and Alabama Chanin's
100% organic medium-weight cotton jersey in Dove for the
backing layer and Baby Blue for the top layer.

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Design Decisions Worksheet

Project Planner | Measurement Worksheet

CIRCUMFERENCE LENGTH

1. Neck 10. Neck opening

2. Chest 11. Shoulder to bust point
3. High Bust 12. Center front
4. Bust 13. Center back
5. Bust distance 14. Waist to high hip
6. Waist 15. Waist to low hip
7. High Hip 16. Skirt length
8. Low Hip 17. Sleeve length
9. Bicep
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Design Decisions Worksheet

Project Planner | Design Worksheet

Project Size

Sleeve/Length Technique

Fabric Details

Top Layer Fabric Color Bottom Layer Fabric Color

Appliqué Layer Fabric Colors

Stencil Paint Color

All-over or Placement

Rib Stitch Elastic Color

Knots Seams

Thread Colors

Embroidery Floss Colors

Beads

Sequins

Embroidery Stitches

Additional Notions

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 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

Design Decisions Worksheet

Project Planner | Design Worksheet

Project

Inspiration | Sketches | Fabric Swatches

Notes

Date Started Date Completed

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 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making
THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

Swing
Swing Skirt
Skirt Pattern
Pattern

wing Skirt
A B C D BASTING LINE

SWING SKIRT

CUT 4
FOLD LINE

E F G H
FIVE-SIDE PATCH POCKET
CUT 4

GRAIN LINE
GRAINLINE

I J K L
GRAIN LINE

SIDE SEAM POCKET

CUT 4

21” HEM

M N O P
24” HEM

PATCH POCKET
CUT 4
GRAIN LINE

26” HEM

28” HEM

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 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

Swing Skirt Pattern

A
in.
cm
2
5
Note: To ensure accuracy,
4

print at "Actual size."

3
1
2
1

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PAGE10
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 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

Swing Skirt Pattern

BASTING LINE

SWING SKIRT

CUT 4 Revised 10/23/2017

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 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

Swing Skirt Pattern

FOL

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 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

Swing Skirt Pattern

FOLD LINE

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Swing Skirt Pattern

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 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

SWING SKIRT
Swing Skirt Pattern

CUT 4
F
GRAINLINE

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 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

Swing Skirt Pattern FOL

FIVE-SIDE PATCH PO
CUT 4

GRAIN LINE

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 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

FOLD LINE Swing Skirt Pattern

PATCH POCKET
CUT 4

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 THE
THE SWING
SWING SKIRT:
SKIRT: Techniques
Techniques &
& Construction
Construction with
with Natalie
Natalie Chanin
Chanin &
& The
The School
School of
of Making
Making

Swing Skirt Pattern

Revised 10/23/2017

©© Craftsy
Craftsy and Sympoz Inc.
21” HEM PAGE
PAGE 17
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 RAINLINE
THE
THE SWING
SWING SKIRT:
SKIRT: Techniques
Techniques &
& Construction
Construction with
with Natalie
Natalie Chanin
Chanin &
& The
The School
School of
of Making
Making

Swing
Swing Skirt
Skirt Pattern
Pattern

Revised 10/23/2017

© Craftsy and Sympoz Inc.

© Craftsy PAGE
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 THE
THE SWING
SWING SKIRT: Techniques &
SKIRT: Techniques & Construction
Construction with
with Natalie
Natalie Chanin
Chanin &
& The
The School
School of
of Making
Making

Swing
Swing Skirt
Skirt Pattern
Pattern

GRAIN LINE
SIDE SEAM POCKET
CUT 4

Revised 10/23/2017

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 THE
THE SWING
SWING SKIRT: Techniques &
SKIRT: Techniques & Construction
Construction with
with Natalie
Natalie Chanin
Chanin &
& The
The School
School of
of Making
Making

Swing
Swing Skirt
Skirt Pattern
Pattern

M POCKET
T4

Revised 10/23/2017

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 THE
THE SWING
SWING SKIRT: Techniques &
SKIRT: Techniques & Construction
Construction with
with Natalie
Natalie Chanin
Chanin &
& The
The School
School of
of Making
Making

Swing Skirt Pattern

M 21” HEM

24” HEM

26” HEM

28” HEM

Revised 10/23/2017

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 THE
THE SWING
SWING SKIRT:
SKIRT: Techniques
Techniques &
& Construction
Construction with
with Natalie
Natalie Chanin
Chanin &
& The
The School
School of
of Making
Making

Swing
Swing Skirt
Skirt Pattern
Pattern

Revised 10/23/2017

© Craftsy and Sympoz Inc.

© Craftsy PAGE
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 THE
THE SWING
SWING SKIRT:
SKIRT: Techniques
Techniques &
& Construction
Construction with
with Natalie
Natalie Chanin
Chanin &
& The
The School
School of
of Making
Making

Swing
Swing Skirt
Skirt Pattern
Pattern

PATCH POCKE
CUT 4
GRAIN LINE

Revised 10/23/2017

© Craftsy and Sympoz Inc.

© Craftsy
PAGE
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 THE
THE SWING
SWING SKIRT: Techniques &
SKIRT: Techniques & Construction
Construction with
with Natalie
Natalie Chanin
Chanin &
& The
The School
School of
of Making
Making

Swing
Swing Skirt
Skirt Pattern
Pattern

ATCH POCKET
CUT 4

Revised 10/23/2017

© Craftsy and Sympoz Inc.

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 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

Magdalena Stencil Artwork

A B C D E
K L M N O
F G H I J

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 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

Magdalena Stencil Artwork

1 2 in. Note: To ensure accuracy,

1 2 3 4 5 cm print at "Actual size."

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 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

Magdalena Stencil Artwork

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 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

Magdalena Stencil Artwork

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 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

Magdalena Stencil Artwork

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 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

Magdalena Stencil Artwork

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 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

Magdalena Stencil Artwork

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 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

Magdalena Stencil Artwork

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 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

Magdalena Stencil Artwork

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 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

Magdalena Stencil Artwork

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 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

Magdalena Stencil Artwork

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 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

Magdalena Stencil Artwork

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 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

Magdalena Stencil Artwork

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 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

Magdalena Stencil Artwork

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 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

Magdalena Stencil Artwork

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 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

Magdalena Stencil Artwork

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Diamond Stitching Grid

Diamond Grid

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Resources

Tips for Using The School of Making

Techniques with Commercial Patterns
• You can easily apply Alabama Chanin techniques of
layering organic cotton jersey, hand-embellishing
and hand-stitching to commercial patterns. Visit
journal.alabamachanin.com to see some beautiful
examples, and consider these guidelines as you
choose a pattern. These tips are adapted with
permission from Alabama Studio Sewing Patterns by
Natalie Chanin (Abrams, 2015).
• Approach your project with a spirit of
experimentation.
• Look for a style you want to wear. Students at The
School of Making have had success with patterns
designed for both knit and woven fabrics.
• Avoid structured designs with intricate tailoring.
• Eliminate buttonholes; use snaps as closures instead.
• Eliminate linings and interfacings. We've never found How to Make a Beading Glove
the need for interfacing in any of the garments we
• You'll need a 3" x 6" rectangle of ribbed knit
construct with these techniques, as the weight of
fabric, double-sided tape, and a hand sewing
the fabric provides enough support.
needle and thread.
• Eliminate zippers. A stretch stitch around the
• Cut a 3" x 6" rectangle from ribbing fabric with the
neckline (see Alabama Studio Sewing Patterns,
fabric’s grain line parallel to the 3" side.
page 138) should allow you enough give with cotton
jersey fabric to get into and out of the garment • Fold the ribbing in half with wrong sides together,
without a zipper. so it now measures 3" square.
• Reduce all seam allowances to ¼" in order to use the • Stitch the raw edges opposite the fold together with
standard Alabama Chanin seams (most commercial a ¼" seam allowance. Fold the seam allowances to
patterns have a ⅝" seam allowance). one side and fell the seam by stitching ⅛" from the
seamline on the right side.
• Remove the seam allowances entirely on necklines
and armholes on garments that do not have collars • Lay the stitched tube flat, with the seam at one side.
or sleeves, and bind the edges to finish them (see On the folded edge opposite the seam, measure
Alabama Studio Sewing Patterns, page 22). 1" down from the top edge and cut a ½"-wide slit
toward the seam through both layers.
• Choose a pattern that matches your skill level.
Simple designs can be very successful when • Put your hand in the glove and your thumb
embellished and sewn with Alabama Chanin through the slit. Add double-sided tape to the
techniques. top of the glove. Sprinkle beads on top of the
tape and stitch away!
• Keep an open mind about the order of construction.
The pattern you choose may not have been designed
for hand sewing; plan your sewing steps in advance
to adapt them for embellishing and stitching by
hand. If you're uncertain about any changes, make a
basic garment sample without embellishment to test
the pattern. Revised 10/23/2017

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 THE SWING SKIRT: Techniques & Construction with Natalie Chanin & The School of Making

Learn More

Discover More About Organic Cotton

Would you like to know more about organic cotton,
why it matters, and what organic means when it comes
to fabric? Visit aboutorganiccotton.org to learn more
about organic cotton and organic farming practices.

Alabama Chanin Supports NEST

NEST is a nonprofit organization works for social
and economic advancement of global artisans and
homeworkers through supply chain transparency,
sustainable business development, and widespread
industry advocacy.

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