Alex Mosco Construct, Maintain and Repair Boundaries- Post and Wire Fencing IntroductionAs a method of dividing land

use or establishing a boundary or containment area, post and wire fencing is a simple and effective method. It has less of a visual impact than post and rail fencing, and owing to the standardised measurements of materials used, is better at segregating larger areas of land than the aforementioned. Owing to the materials involved, it is easy to plan the amount of these required, as well as make accurate cost forecasts for any given project. This helps where budgets, people hours, and liaising with suppliers and governing bodies is concerned. Primarily an outer perimeter, post and wire fencing utilises tension to provide structural integrity to a boundary. It is easily adaptable to changes in direction and mild fluctuations in land relief, and blends with the surrounding environment. Should damage occur to a section, the structure is repairable, and a barbed wire section at the top of the fence deters cattle from pushing too vigorously against it, as well as informing humans that it there for a purpose. With variations available for depth of placement of straining posts depending on strength, density, and material make up of the soil, as well as differing methods of strutting the post e.g.: triangulating between strainer and strut with extra wire, this fencing technique is versatile and adaptable to many conditions. With the basic premise of tensioning wire between two posts and tacking to intermediates to form a barrier, we can see how adaptable this technique is; apply it to more than one type of land, stock, and specific building method to achieve the result. 1. For this task I used suitable PPE (steel toecap boots, gloves, goggles, gauntlet and standard gloves, hard hat, appropriate distance and common sense (vital!)), and chose the correct tools and materials for fencing. These included 50m roles of netting and 200m roles of barbed wire, straining posts and intermediates, as well as tacks and nails. I opted for a mell, post driver, monkey strainers and clapper board, claw hammer and chisel, pinch bar, tamper, tape measures (30 and 5m), bow and panel saw, as well as a string line to reach between perimeter markers. I checked all tools for defects before and after use ensuring personal and third party health and safety. At the end of the day, I cleaned the tools, prolonging their lifespan.

2. In order to estimate the amount of materials required for this task, I followed markers already laid out to show the perimeter of the fence. Knowing that any given 50m stretch of fence needs two straining post (one at each end) and 16 intermediates placed at a distance of 3m, this provided the basis for material calculations. Adhering to the markers in place ensured that deviation was minimised and that materials and money were not wasted. Where provision was made for a gate, an extra strainer is required to accommodate this. When working on site, I collected waste materials, taking them back to Potteric Carrs compound for recycling, thus eliminating any effects on the natural surroundings. 3. The main considerations in this project were to accommodate access points in the form of gates and stick to the proposed perimeter line. I did this by carefully measuring between markers ensuring they were accurately placed, placing a taught string line between straining posts, and driving all intermediaries as close to this line as possible. Regarding a particular stretch of fencing, there was an issue with gas pipes already in place close to the proposed fence line, and consequently, I sought confirmation that fencing near these was safe. 4. I constructed the boundary by setting straining posts 50m apart and placing intermediate posts between these in order to attach the fencing and barbed wire accordingly. I placed a string line between the straining posts so that the intermediate posts did not deviate from the proposed line, and used a tape measure to determine a series of 3m intervals for them to be placed. Using the pinch bar, I created pilot holes for the intermediaries, which made using the drivel to knock the posts into place much easier. When using the drivel I made sure to wear a hard hat, avoiding personal and third party injuries. When numbers were sufficient, I used two people on the drivel. I placed straining and intermediate posts in the ground at a third of their total length, measuring them with the spirit level and by eye to ensure they were vertical. It was also vital to make sure they were close to the string line. With the straining posts, I placed a footplate at the bottom, making sure this was located on two solid surfaces of the posthole to avoid the post twisting once force was applied by straining the fencing wire. Having made sure of this, I tamped stones and earth into the posthole, and correctly strutted the posts to resist the linear and torsional forces of straining. When strutting the straining posts, I cut a small bit of the point off an intermediate post to form a flatter surface, which was then recessed into the middle of the straining post. Having marked around this point, I chiselled a hole large enough to accommodate the strut post, and used a stob (a smaller portion of an intermediate post) to brace it into place. To support the strut post against the stob, I cut a small U shape in the flat end with the bow saw, placed the post in the recessed hole of the straining post, and hammered the stob into the ground approximately an inch further towards the straining post from the end where the U had been cut.

I used the mell to knock the strut post into place, and made sure it was braced tightly in the recessed hole and against the stob. Taking a moment to ensure this meant I was certain that any shifting of the straining post was minimal, once I placed strain on the wire. Hereafter I used the claw hammer to place nails into the strut post and straining post, finalising the process of bracing. When a run of two strutted straining posts and intermediates were located correctly and in line, I tacked fencing wire to one post, unwound its length, and was in a position to tension it with the monkey strainers, subsequently tacking it to the other strainer. I used three tacks at the top and bottom of the fencing wire to resist straining forces, and left a toecaps distance from the ground to the bottom of the wire. Once held in place, I tacked the remainder of the fence to the straining post and attached the monkey strainers to the other end ready for tensioning. I placed the clapperboard on the fence, unscrewing each half and re-attaching it with the fence in between. Having put the monkey strainers chain around the straining post, aligning it so that the forces pull the fence in a straight line, and placing the joining wire to the tool, I heaved tension into the structure. Once done, I tacked the tensioned fence to the second straining post using the prior method, and released the tension from the tool itself. I did this by applying more force in the same direction, releasing the top monkey paw from the chain, and walking the tool backwards along the chain until I could detach the wire from its crimp. Once achieved, I tacked the remaining portions of fence to the straining post, ensuring it was secure. When tacking to intermediate posts, I did not drive the tacks all the way, leaving some slack in the structure for adjustment if necessary. I placed all tacks at an angle to minimise the risk of splitting the posts along their grain. Regarding the barbed wire, exactly the same method of straining applied, except I did not need the clapperboard. I placed the single strand of wire directly into the monkey strainer after tacking an end to the straining post, unravelled it to the other, and tensioned it. I placed the barb 100mm above the top of the fencing wire, and ran two parallel lengths of it equidistant from each other, completing the run of fencing as a cattle enclosure and deterrent to humans from crossing a clearly marked boundary. I tacked the wire to the strainer, released the tool, and tacked to the intermediate posts. Here however, and owing to the nature of the beast, it was a little more awkward as I was working in thick gauntlets and goggles to protect myself from injury. Again, I tacked the barb to the intermediate posts, leaving room in the tacks for adjustment. 5. I experienced several problems with this task One was having different length intermediate posts. Having used six-foot posts for the majority of the task, suddenly having to deal with seven feet ones was an obstacle. Owing to sinking a third of the post into the ground (2 out of 6 feet) and leaving four exposed, I remedied this by marking all posts at two feet from the point regardless of their total length. This left room to adjust the depth of post driven into the ground if, with anything over four feet above ground level being cut off.

Another problem occurred with the pilot holes for the intermediates. For whatever reason, somewhere within the task, these deviated wildly from the intended string line. With this being the constant of the exercise, it was important for it to be correct at all times, and so, I made new pilot holes after re-tensioning the string line- easy! The only other issue was one roll of barbed wire being eleven metres short of one of the straining posts! I remedied this by cutting a section off a new roll, fixing it to the post being strained from, and attaching it to the short section via the cunning and ingenious method of the twisty bar! This is a piece of metal drilled to accommodate varying gauges of wire in order to twist loose ends together a little like using a reef knot on rope. It worked, and I strained and fixed the fence into place successfully! 6. I used all tools with personal and third party health and safety in mind. I had the relevant PPE and applied distance and common sense throughout this task. On the odd occasion, I may have forgotten something (hardhat!), and my colleagues or assessor reminded me. I took prompt action to rectify the problem. 7. When handling materials (treated timber), I wore gloves to protect myself and relevant PPE depending on which tools I used. I lifted well within my ability, employing the knees bent, back straight approach, and carried all equipment in a manner that would not harm others or me. This meant carrying things like spades and pinch bars under the arm rather than over the shoulder, avoiding slips, trips and falls whilst carrying the equipment, and ensuring I did not overload myself. 8. As I took part in this task, I made a point of being aware of general health and safety issues, rather than those applying simply to me. This umbrella approach reduces risks to everyone on site. 9. Throughout this task, I was not aware of any shortcomings in the methods used and as a result did not feel obligated to inform my assessor of any changes or improvements. On several occasions, I asked for clarification of minor points or for him to go over the requirements of the task, so that I fully understood what was required of me. 10. Once complete, I checked for waste materials and removed these from the site in order that the natural environment would not be degraded or spoilt. This involved picking up off cuts of wood and taking them back to the van and compound for recycling, as well as maintaining best practice throughout the operation, i.e., picking up dropped tacks, ensuring any materials left on site were in one place, and collecting and cleaning all tools after use.